As many experience professional photographers have said, there are no bad cameras these days. So I think that for amateur enthusiast photographers the constant upgrading of cameras is an unnecessary expense. I fully understand the need for manufacturers to keep selling kit to keep money coming in, but it is not necessary to have the latest thing to take great photos. I know that there are a lot of people in the world with money to burn, but for amateurs in the UK with all our cost of living issues we would be better working more on our composition and other skills rather than hankering after a new camera with a few gimmicky extra ‘features’.
You do get 7 custom settings for both video and photography on the X-T5 (so 14 in total). If you link it to a button such as the left menu button - it is actually more powerful than the dial on the top. It is not really specifically mentioned in the manual - but I now have 7 customs each for photo and video on my X-T5.
@@colinhoward2200 but can it override things like exposure settings. I switched to the X-H2 from the X-T5 as I could only get the custom functions to do so much, would still need to change ISO/aperture/SS/focus mode using the dials/switches
X-H2 also has option for a vertical grip, perhaps not an imperative for landscape only photographers, but if one does a lot of portraiture as well, imho, at least for me, a pretty vital facility. NO availabily for X-T5.
For easy changing of the ISO on an X-H2, just hold the top ISO button and rotate the rear wheel, while looking at the changing ISO setting on the mini top mini display to the left of the ISO button. It really not hard to do. You can also see the changes in the viewfinder as you're holding the ISO button down and rotating the rear wheel, without having to look at the main LCD rear display. I did enjoy your video and will admit the X-H2 takes a while to learn the new settings, compared to earlier Fuji X Series, but the results are spectacular.
moved from a T3 to a H2 because of the buffer. Buffer for days. I sometimes shoot birds, sports, and other high speed stuff so the extended buffer works well for me. Don't care for the H2 flippy screen but the buffer. Missed out on the dials I liked on the T3 but the buffer. So the screen and dials are the two things I miss but the buffer makes up for it.
Ian, Great review, thanks. Sold my pair of X-T3 and a X-Pro3 (honestly never took to the hidden screen) and ordered an X-H2 and a X-T5. I can see myself primarily using the H2 with my zooms and the T5 with my collection of small Fujinons (16,23,35,50,90). Glad I found your site. Greetings from Canada, although I did study photography in Birmingham so many years ago (KRO Blues 🙂)
I picked one up on Saturday after trying the XT5 and Xh2 in my local camera store. I went in thinking I'd buy the XT but the handling just felt so much better on the XH. I usually shoot manual with auto iso so I haven't encountered your issue but I could see it being a bit annoying and maybe it's something that can be fixed with firmware if Fuji think it's a big enough deal. The weather sealing seems superb after my first outing with it here dealing with icelandic rain and winds so build quality is for now not a concern. Look forward to seeing how I feel after a few more months but I'm pretty sure I made the right choice.
I asked Fuji Germany about a firmware update dealing with the ISO issue. They answered there are no plans of any changes. Seems like they didn't get enough complaints, yet. Reasons of my choice: Larger grip, flipped screen protecting the display whilst in the bag. I also wondered about the filter option on the PASM dial, just makes no sense. Ugliest disappointment: No wireless RAW file transfer to the PC, that's stone age.
Well balanced review, Ian. I bought my X-H2 the day it was released last year, before the final specs for the X-T5 were available. I knew this was a gamble, but had a big international photography trip booked for the following week, so decided to risk it. But no regrets at all! Agree with all your positives. Agree on the "filter" dial issue. I'm a bit more positive than you on the resolution question, mainly because I occasionally need to make deep crops (mainly when shooting wildlife), and my computer has no problems handling larger file sizes. I understand the ISO adjustment issue, but I was previously shooting with the X-S10 which has the same approach, and found that I quickly became adept at making adjustments on the fly. Ditto for the flippy screen: I rarely shoot video and never selfies, but still find the flippy screen offers some benefits over the XT-5's 3-way screen.
10:50 Yea, but if you put f/2.8 lenses on a full frame you also get very different results vs putting an f/2.8 on an aps-c. Sure, I use aps-c lenses as well for the weight savings, but I know that just because it states f/2.8 on my 16-55mm lens, it just somehow is in any way equivalent to an f/2.8 24-70 full frame lens. It is much more similar to the f/4 version of a full frame lens, not just in terms of background separation, but also in terms of actual light captured (your aps-c sensor is only 43% the surface area of a full frame lens, so even if the light intensity per mm^2 is equal, you capture less than half the total light). Given this, aps-c lenses aren't really lighter, the Nikon 24-70 f/4 is 150 grams lighter than the Fuji 16-55 f/2.8. There is no free lunch, you want to capture equal amounts of light, you need pretty much equal amount of glass and thus weight.
I switched to the X-H2 from the X-T5 for the custom function dial, after a recent trip where I was switching between doing long exposures on a tripod to handheld wildlife shots I found I was missing shots because of messing with the physical buttons and menus with large gloves on. Build quality and deeper buffers is much nicer as well
I'm looking to potentially swap my H2 for an H2s. Did you make the switch by selling one on ebay? I'm trying to figure out how to make a change. Thanks for the insight
@@zk.h that was my intention, just haven’t had a chance to get around to it, still have my X-T4 that I was planning on selling when I got the X-T5. Next time will likely just trade in, despite loosing some cash doing so
Thank you for your video! Would you recommend this for bird and wildlife photography? Some have commented that the af & tracking are a bit faster on this model. Thanks
Fully agree with you on the ISO issue. At present I'm using both a Nikon D7500 and an XT20. Love the handling of the D7500 but can't see myself switching to Nikon Z (either Full frame or APS-C) due to poor (APS-C) and expensive lens line-up when it's time for a new body. I do like to use the Fuji but changing the ISO settings is just a pain in the 'derrière'. Good to see someone adressing this! Same thing is applicable to the photometry settings as far as I'm concerned.
You can use all your existing F Mount glass on the Z cameras with the F to Z adapter. They work just as well, and some have said even better. And of course you can use FF Z lenses on APS-C bodies.
On the X-T5 you have a total of 14 custom settings (7 for video and 7 for photos). If you link a button to custom selection it is just as quick as using the limited 7 custom settings on the top dial where you have to remember what they are. if you use the custom link on a menu button on the X-T5 they actually come up with the labels you gave them, so you can remember what they are.
I am really enjoying my X-H2 but I really miss the press button feature on the front and rear command dials. It's been such a great convenient feature on my previous X-T2, X-H1, X-T4 and my X-E3. I can't seem to reprogram my muscle memory and am always trying to press the dials to access the features I'd assigned to that action upon my other Fujifilm cameras. Other than that... excellent!
I don’t use the viewfinder much to be honest, I shoot 90% of my landscapes using the screen because it’s better for composition and I use tripod as well for landscape photography. And when you’ve got a camera on a tripod, you can have the life you want, and it’s much better for composition in my opinion so I tend to think the viewfinder argument is actually a bit mute. You only put your eye up to the camera and then you take the shot. If you’re the sort of person that’s looking at your photos through the viewfinder. That’s fair enough I don’t I don’t want to be staring at a screen from half an inch. In fact it’s bad for your eyes. It’s better to look at a photo on a screen standing a foot or two back. My optometrist told me that…. I have printed a couple of pieces already from the XT5 and I imagine the XH2 will be similar as they have the same sensor and the extra megapixels. Do make a difference when it comes to doing larger prints and I’m talking Prince of about a metre by 50 cm, which is standard for a lot of printing now when people are ordering online. People don’t want tiny prints to go in the corner of the room. They want big bold prints that stand out in the living room. That’s the kind of printing that I do so the 40 megapixels is a game changer for me. I would not have bought an XT5. If it was 26 megapixels, no way not worth it. I would’ve just bought an XT4. In terms of weight of the camera though most of us who are shooting landscapes have the camera on a tripod I don’t think the weight is such an issue and if you buy a decent backpack that fits you well it’s not a heavy camera but that’s just my view
I agree for landscapes but for events, photographers mostly use the view finder. It's not uncommon to shoot in excess of several thousand images during an event, that's a lot of time looking through the view finder, so it definitely helps 👍
@@ian_worth yeah that's a good point and I think for events the xh2 is ago but the xt5 if you find it is not bad it's not terrible we have to remember it was probably only 4 years ago that we all switched over to mirrorless and we used optical viewfinders for a long time. I also think camera manufacturer is a trying to hedge their bets a little bit with the viewfinder and evf. I think both cameras are really outstanding
I have an XT-2 w/power booster grip, and am ready to upgrade. I'm considering both the X-H2 and H2S. I agree that the extra resolution is not that much of an advantage and would rather work 26MP files. I am an enthusiast and do a mixture of landscape and travel photography. I'm curious if you considered the X-H2S? It has all the advantages of the X-H2 without the larger files size. I don't like spending more for the X-H2S but other than that...
@dalejohnson8057 I'm in the same position... have an X-T2 with power boost grip. I'm debating the X-H2 or X-H2s. The 40mp would allow me to crop. However, suppose I'd get more in-focus shots with the better X-H2s autofocus. I just keep using the X-T2 because I can't decide which to upgraded to : )
I agree with you about the Filter setting on the PASM dial, especially as it is a professional camera. After seeing the total solar eclipse in Argentina in 2019 we went to Chile to see the Very Large Telescope. In the evening we went out miles into the desert to do some astronomy and had a go at doing some astrophotography using the X-E3 with a Samyang 12mm lens. On setting up the camera, I realised that I couldn't take if off the JPG only setting, because it was pitch black and only had a torch for additional lighting I couldn't see what the problem was. On wasting a lot of time and getting nowhere, I had to rush to take some photographs in JPG. On arriving back at the hotel I realised that I accidentally knocked the "auto mode selector lever". Sometimes camera manufacturers get the ergonomics wrong.
The intro phot with the rocks and swirly water… have you tried taking this sort of photo nearer to ground-height? I find that shoreline photos work best, most of the time, when taking from around knee-height… makes getting a meaningful foreground and subject much easier too, and makes the sky fill the upper 2/3 typically of the scene
I have, but for this particular shot the sky above my frame was very grey with not a lot of interest, so I opted to focus more on the foreground and only show 1/3 sky. Your technique definitely works if there's an epic sky. 👍👍
Hi Ian, what was the outcome of the excessive noise you were getting on the XT-5 files compared to the 26mg pixels of the XT-4? I've been considering moving to the XT-5 or X-H2 but after seeing that I'm not sure. Is the process better in Capture 1?
Another thought provoking video Ian. Thanks. I will stick with my current xt3 set up for now. If I do upgrade I think the xt5 is probably better suited to me personally as I hardly ever shoot video. Thanks for your hard work. Cheers.
I was strongly considering getting the XH2. I absolutely loved the grip, the custom buttons and the top lcd readout. But in the end, I decided on the XT5 as small and light are the most important to me, as well as the flip up screen. And I soooo agree with you on the filter dial.
Is there a way to shut off the secondary LCD screen when the camera is also turned off. If you cannot, can you at least change the fields? When the camera is off, secondary LCD shows ‘0h00m’, is it supposed to change to the battery time level left?
More relevant choice maybe why xh2 and not xh2s … for wedding work it’s better, 26mp more than enough and slightly better high iso and also more robust af settings and more. I have both and hardly use my xh2 as the xh2s is wow, I even leave my Sony A9ll in the cupboard these days as well. A 40mp Fuji file slows down my computer more than my A7rIV, which is now sold but still another reason I personally prefer the xh2s to my xh2 … both great cameras though
I shoot cityscape around NYC, and landscapes. I shot swans in the eat river near the Whitestone Bridge. The bird 🐦 autofocus was outstanding.The XT5 is too small for me, and you get way more features for your money with the. XH2
I just got a XH2s and installed the latest firmware and if I press the iso, the up and down buttons work the way you customized it. it's cool, but I'm very disappointed that it didn't come with a paper manual!
Hi Ian, another great video. I have just returned back into Fuji from XT3 and 2 days. Must say I love the XH2 and your input has helped me with my decision. I am tending to stick with the best performing lenses and have started with the 16-55 F/2.8 which I owned previously. I was wondering what L plate you use?
I guess it wouldn't be a Fuji camera without some "Fuji-isms", I guess! Odd that they restrict the programming of the front/rear dials, when many of their lenses have an aperture ring - they should just let you choose SS/ISO for the dials, like pretty much every other camera. Some also noted the option to reverse the dial direction doesn't work for ISO, probably because of that vertical menu they pop up. Hopefully they'll fix some of these weird things in firmware soon.
Man, there's so much stuff in this camera that I really don't need as a wildlife/macro photographer, but I'm not a fan of the grip and dials on the X-T5. I'll wait another couple of months, maybe the X-S20 will be a better, cheaper solution that fits my needs.
Since pretty much all of the lenses have an aperture ring they could youst put the shutterspeed on one dial and then iso or exposure compensation on the other i feel like that would make it alot faster and intuitive
wait, you can't just click the front dial and have it toggle between exposure compensation, iso, and aperture? i have an x-pro3 and x-t3 and both of those will let me set the physical iso and exposure compensation dials to "C" (Command) or the Aperture ring on ringed lenses to "A" and the button setting in the menus set to have A act as C instead of automatic. once those are set i can control them with the front dial one at a time, cycling by either clicking the x-t3 front dial or pushing a button next to it on the x-pro3. i don't remember if these are the default functions for those actions, but holding down the DISP button while the camera is ready will let me change out the function for all of the buttons/dials. i can't imagine the x-h2/s not having the same features available considering they functionally always have exp-comp and iso set to "C"
Ian I just wanted to thank you for your content. You're one of my favourite photographer/youtubers as I like that you actually go out and shoot kit in the field. I'd love to hear what your settings are for the XH2 for weddings. I have the XH2 and XH2S - I feel that the extra resolution of the XH2 is really dependent on the lens that you use. However I do find that in lower light places I'm preferring the XH2S where the AF is literally on another level and file sizes make for a nicer workflow. I tend not to worry about weight differences with FF (I'm coming from FF Sony A1 ) and body weight wasn't the driving factor, it was the all round capabilities in a single small package that got me.... pro-res internal recording, unlimited 4k record, much better IBIS, better jpeg configuration settings. I'm really loving the XH2 duo. Hoping that Fuji update the XH2 firmware to match the recent XH2S :)
Love the video and have subscribed. Money no object, would the faster autofocus of the 'S' (and easier workflow) trump the extra MP? I'm looking at the XH2s, the XH2 and the XT5. I have an XT3 but the lenses I prefer are unstabilized. Most important subjects to me are fast moving children!
If your a photo centric user then the xt5 is a no brainer with its lighter body for primes and cheaper ssd cards and you can always buy the extra grip for zoom heavier lenses too, and that flippy screen is great at weddings or shooting holding the camera above your head or using the xt5 low to the ground where the xh2 screen is a pain to use
There are plenty of other good second hand older cameras that are more than enough up for the job delivering fantastic results with good glass but of course its the user overall that counts.
The real problem is with any new camera is for video it is all well and good putting them on a tripod. If you are travelling and just want to pan around a little bit, the IBIS that is designed to "latch" on to whatever you want to look at for stills, if you try and move your camera even 1 cm your video just jerks. My phone (and definitely my GoPro) is better for video in a travel situation TBH.
if you turn off digital stabilization, its less jerky + don't forget phones and gopro's have a really wide lens, try putting your widest lens on and giving that a go 👍
I am not a pro photographer, but I don't understand why adjusting the ISO is a problem. I mainly shoot by setting the apperture, sometimes the SS for creative purpose, but my ISO is on Auto and I adjust the exposure to the left of the histogram (most of the time, again unless for creative purpose)... To me ISO is more a concequence of my artistic choices, or the fact that there is not enough light... I may have a custom setting for landscape where I have the iso set and be on AutoSS... What bugs me however is that when I'm in AutoISO1 (set with a minSS of 1/125), I wish I could see the ISO selected when I compose...
Its only a problem when in full manual mode and more so when shooting video. For video, ideally you will need to keep the shutter at 1/50 or twice the frame rate and then the aperture will be your creative choice which means using iso or an ND filter to change exposure. When I'm filming weddings, I'm constantly using my iso when shooting indoors. Auto iso is not ideal for this as you need to be in control of what part of the scene is exposed correctly. 👍👍
We are spoiled these days with the camera tech available. We can concentrate on being more creative and get things done more quickly. My X T3 has taken me to the next level as I'm sure it has many others! Weight is still a problem, so I've learned not to carry lenses that i don't need or rarely use.
I've been shooting high-end weddings for over 15 years, the first 9 years were on Nikon full frame the last 6 with fuji apsc. That's probably around 450 weddings and not once has a client mentioned anything regarding image quality. Yes, the noise performance in low light isn't as good on an apsc camera but with the clever use of light and the use of bounced flash when required. The results a very similar. The bonus is that the overall weight and form factor is a lot smaller, especially if you shoot with 2 cameras.
Ian, all your recent videos about the 40Mp sensor are really useful. I have the XT2 (my first Fuji love) and the XT3. The latter developed a fault, the battery lost 10% of power every 24 hours, and it wasn't a battery issue. Then the XT3 shut down completely and lost all settings even the date and time etc. As a landscape photographer, my choice was to go for the XT5 or get the XT3 repaired. The IBIS of the XT5 would be nice but I don't want or need 40Mp, and your video confirmed the minimal, if any, IQ improvement over a 26Mp sensor. So I paid the fixed £180 repair fee and sent the XT3 to Fuji. The day after it was received by Fuji I got confirmation that it was repaired and on its way back; with a new main printed circuit board, a new internal back up battery, and a general service and sensor clean. Brilliant service from Fuji and the right decision for me, in my opinion. Helped in no small measure by your videos. Thank you!
Hi Ian - Just wondering why you/anyone would prefer the XT5/XH2 instead of buying the full frame 45MP Nikon Z7? I only ask as you can now buy a Nikon Z7 2nd hand for the same price as these Fuji cameras.
Weight, size and cost would be the main benefits. Full frame will give you better IQ in poor light when using higher iso. In good light for landscapes, there's probably not a huge difference in image quality. Full frame may be marginally better, but you would have to look hard for the differences. Just depends what your shooting and personal preference. I shot Nikon full frame for over 10 years before moving to the smaller fuji system. There's no right or wrongs, its a bit like cars really, choose the one you like the look of 👍👍
@@ian_worth Thanks for the reply :) I just checked and the Nikon Z7 only weighs 15 grams more and is 500 pounds cheaper on ebay than the XH-2 (as they have more 2nd hand available due to it being an older camera). As I only shoot landscapes do you think that will be the better buy over the XH2? They also have a 24-200mm lens which is 570g and very affordable that's what got me thinking about it in the first place to save weight and just carry 1 lens
Both great cameras for Landscapes my friend. Give careful consideration to the lenses you want because ultimately that's what your buying into. Do some comparisons between similar lenses. ie the 24-70 f2.8 Nikon and the 16-55 f2.8 fuji. Both superb lenses, but that will give you an idea of weight and cost comparisons.
@@ian_worth Great thanks for your thoughts Ian. I only shoot landscapes (or use vintage lenses) so think I'll save some money/weight and get the Z7 and the 24-200. Cheers and great videos
Total waste of space and use is the filters, yes shove that feature into the menus, be great if Fujifilm had live ND shooting like the OM system has, ND2 (EV) all the way to ND32 (5EV) with live view.
My first intro to Fujifilm was an X-T20 and I will sheepishly admit to trying out the filter function (the faux tilt lens effect). It was amusing for a few shots, but the colours are garishly amplified and you have no image control. It has no place on a flagship bodies. I suspect it might be a cultural thing that some of the filters are more acceptable in Japan. Keep in mind that South East Asia loves "Hello Kitty" themes and the like. I was in Vietnam last week visiting my wife's family and a fad for women there is fake cat ears on their moto helmets. Thus what seems odd or tacky to us in the West may not be seen as such everywhere.
@@MindfulMotorcyclist I think if you are being very still ibis with boost will work the best, if you are moving/ panning then just ibis. The shorter the focal length the better or less jerky it will be.
I guess you come from a phone and dont know much about cameras… cameras dont have iphone stanilisation. In fact fuji ibis is very good. Its absolutely normal you have to stabilize video in edit.
@@chacmool2581 Nah! With Canon you pay what they want for you to get it. Closed system for R glass. You are going to be bleeding cash to service the R5. Good camera though.
Agree on "Filter" setting. "C8" would be much more useful instead. Another pointless button is "WB" (shooting JPEGs with top $2k camera? who does this?). ISO selection method is a pain indeed, but there's no room for dedicated ISO dial - the LCD occupies it.
As many experience professional photographers have said, there are no bad cameras these days. So I think that for amateur enthusiast photographers the constant upgrading of cameras is an unnecessary expense. I fully understand the need for manufacturers to keep selling kit to keep money coming in, but it is not necessary to have the latest thing to take great photos. I know that there are a lot of people in the world with money to burn, but for amateurs in the UK with all our cost of living issues we would be better working more on our composition and other skills rather than hankering after a new camera with a few gimmicky extra ‘features’.
So true my friend 👍👍
I got Xh2 over xt5. The EVF, the build quality & and handle, sold me to get the XH2. The 7 custom settings make a lot easier.
You do get 7 custom settings for both video and photography on the X-T5 (so 14 in total). If you link it to a button such as the left menu button - it is actually more powerful than the dial on the top.
It is not really specifically mentioned in the manual - but I now have 7 customs each for photo and video on my X-T5.
@@colinhoward2200 but can it override things like exposure settings. I switched to the X-H2 from the X-T5 as I could only get the custom functions to do so much, would still need to change ISO/aperture/SS/focus mode using the dials/switches
X-H2 also has option for a vertical grip, perhaps not an imperative for landscape only photographers, but if one does a lot of portraiture as well, imho, at least for me, a pretty vital facility. NO availabily for X-T5.
Same here.
For easy changing of the ISO on an X-H2, just hold the top ISO button and rotate the rear wheel, while looking at the changing ISO setting on the mini top mini display to the left of the ISO button. It really not hard to do. You can also see the changes in the viewfinder as you're holding the ISO button down and rotating the rear wheel, without having to look at the main LCD rear display. I did enjoy your video and will admit the X-H2 takes a while to learn the new settings, compared to earlier Fuji X Series, but the results are spectacular.
moved from a T3 to a H2 because of the buffer. Buffer for days. I sometimes shoot birds, sports, and other high speed stuff so the extended buffer works well for me. Don't care for the H2 flippy screen but the buffer. Missed out on the dials I liked on the T3 but the buffer. So the screen and dials are the two things I miss but the buffer makes up for it.
Ian, Great review, thanks. Sold my pair of X-T3 and a X-Pro3 (honestly never took to the hidden screen) and ordered an X-H2 and a X-T5. I can see myself primarily using the H2 with my zooms and the T5 with my collection of small Fujinons (16,23,35,50,90). Glad I found your site. Greetings from Canada, although I did study photography in Birmingham so many years ago (KRO Blues 🙂)
I picked one up on Saturday after trying the XT5 and Xh2 in my local camera store. I went in thinking I'd buy the XT but the handling just felt so much better on the XH. I usually shoot manual with auto iso so I haven't encountered your issue but I could see it being a bit annoying and maybe it's something that can be fixed with firmware if Fuji think it's a big enough deal. The weather sealing seems superb after my first outing with it here dealing with icelandic rain and winds so build quality is for now not a concern. Look forward to seeing how I feel after a few more months but I'm pretty sure I made the right choice.
I did exactly the same, choosing the X-H2 as an upgrade to my X-T4.
@@ivangalea8628 well let's hope we both made the right choice 😃
Let me know how you get on Tony 👍
@@ian_worth no problem, I will
I asked Fuji Germany about a firmware update dealing with the ISO issue. They answered there are no plans of any changes.
Seems like they didn't get enough complaints, yet.
Reasons of my choice: Larger grip, flipped screen protecting the display whilst in the bag.
I also wondered about the filter option on the PASM dial, just makes no sense.
Ugliest disappointment: No wireless RAW file transfer to the PC, that's stone age.
👍👍
240fps video is so amazing, its not why i bought the camera but it is an insane feature i use constantly
Well balanced review, Ian. I bought my X-H2 the day it was released last year, before the final specs for the X-T5 were available. I knew this was a gamble, but had a big international photography trip booked for the following week, so decided to risk it. But no regrets at all! Agree with all your positives. Agree on the "filter" dial issue. I'm a bit more positive than you on the resolution question, mainly because I occasionally need to make deep crops (mainly when shooting wildlife), and my computer has no problems handling larger file sizes. I understand the ISO adjustment issue, but I was previously shooting with the X-S10 which has the same approach, and found that I quickly became adept at making adjustments on the fly. Ditto for the flippy screen: I rarely shoot video and never selfies, but still find the flippy screen offers some benefits over the XT-5's 3-way screen.
Thanks Warrick 👍
Thanks for the wonderful review! I opted for two X-H2s instead of the X-T5s. I do have 2 x XT3s, 2 x XT4s and 2 x X-H2s. I love them all...
Glad it was helpful! 😊🙏
10:50 Yea, but if you put f/2.8 lenses on a full frame you also get very different results vs putting an f/2.8 on an aps-c. Sure, I use aps-c lenses as well for the weight savings, but I know that just because it states f/2.8 on my 16-55mm lens, it just somehow is in any way equivalent to an f/2.8 24-70 full frame lens. It is much more similar to the f/4 version of a full frame lens, not just in terms of background separation, but also in terms of actual light captured (your aps-c sensor is only 43% the surface area of a full frame lens, so even if the light intensity per mm^2 is equal, you capture less than half the total light). Given this, aps-c lenses aren't really lighter, the Nikon 24-70 f/4 is 150 grams lighter than the Fuji 16-55 f/2.8. There is no free lunch, you want to capture equal amounts of light, you need pretty much equal amount of glass and thus weight.
I switched to the X-H2 from the X-T5 for the custom function dial, after a recent trip where I was switching between doing long exposures on a tripod to handheld wildlife shots I found I was missing shots because of messing with the physical buttons and menus with large gloves on. Build quality and deeper buffers is much nicer as well
I'm looking to potentially swap my H2 for an H2s. Did you make the switch by selling one on ebay? I'm trying to figure out how to make a change. Thanks for the insight
@@zk.h that was my intention, just haven’t had a chance to get around to it, still have my X-T4 that I was planning on selling when I got the X-T5. Next time will likely just trade in, despite loosing some cash doing so
I wish they put tilt screen on it. I'd buy it next day.
Thank you for your video! Would you recommend this for bird and wildlife photography? Some have commented that the af & tracking are a bit faster on this model. Thanks
finally someone that has same iso problem! i dont know they do thar seperate iso menu. i love my x-s10 but that is totally unnecessary
Same here 👍
Fully agree with you on the ISO issue. At present I'm using both a Nikon D7500 and an XT20. Love the handling of the D7500 but can't see myself switching to Nikon Z (either Full frame or APS-C) due to poor (APS-C) and expensive lens line-up when it's time for a new body. I do like to use the Fuji but changing the ISO settings is just a pain in the 'derrière'. Good to see someone adressing this! Same thing is applicable to the photometry settings as far as I'm concerned.
You can use all your existing F Mount glass on the Z cameras with the F to Z adapter. They work just as well, and some have said even better. And of course you can use FF Z lenses on APS-C bodies.
On the X-T5 you have a total of 14 custom settings (7 for video and 7 for photos). If you link a button to custom selection it is just as quick as using the limited 7 custom settings on the top dial where you have to remember what they are. if you use the custom link on a menu button on the X-T5 they actually come up with the labels you gave them, so you can remember what they are.
I am really enjoying my X-H2 but I really miss the press button feature on the front and rear command dials. It's been such a great convenient feature on my previous X-T2, X-H1, X-T4 and my X-E3. I can't seem to reprogram my muscle memory and am always trying to press the dials to access the features I'd assigned to that action upon my other Fujifilm cameras. Other than that... excellent!
yeah i miss that too, I think they did it for better weather sealing 👍👍
I don’t use the viewfinder much to be honest, I shoot 90% of my landscapes using the screen because it’s better for composition and I use tripod as well for landscape photography. And when you’ve got a camera on a tripod, you can have the life you want, and it’s much better for composition in my opinion so I tend to think the viewfinder argument is actually a bit mute. You only put your eye up to the camera and then you take the shot. If you’re the sort of person that’s looking at your photos through the viewfinder. That’s fair enough I don’t I don’t want to be staring at a screen from half an inch. In fact it’s bad for your eyes. It’s better to look at a photo on a screen standing a foot or two back. My optometrist told me that…. I have printed a couple of pieces already from the XT5 and I imagine the XH2 will be similar as they have the same sensor and the extra megapixels. Do make a difference when it comes to doing larger prints and I’m talking Prince of about a metre by 50 cm, which is standard for a lot of printing now when people are ordering online. People don’t want tiny prints to go in the corner of the room. They want big bold prints that stand out in the living room. That’s the kind of printing that I do so the 40 megapixels is a game changer for me. I would not have bought an XT5. If it was 26 megapixels, no way not worth it. I would’ve just bought an XT4. In terms of weight of the camera though most of us who are shooting landscapes have the camera on a tripod I don’t think the weight is such an issue and if you buy a decent backpack that fits you well it’s not a heavy camera but that’s just my view
I agree for landscapes but for events, photographers mostly use the view finder. It's not uncommon to shoot in excess of several thousand images during an event, that's a lot of time looking through the view finder, so it definitely helps 👍
@@ian_worth yeah that's a good point and I think for events the xh2 is ago but the xt5 if you find it is not bad it's not terrible we have to remember it was probably only 4 years ago that we all switched over to mirrorless and we used optical viewfinders for a long time. I also think camera manufacturer is a trying to hedge their bets a little bit with the viewfinder and evf. I think both cameras are really outstanding
Hello and thanks for this video. Can you indicate what L-bracket you use for the X-H2 ? Thanks !
its one I made myself, check out my shorts and you will see how I did it 👍
@@ian_worth Thanks ! The Peak design plate is Arca mount compatible ? I have an Arca Monoball P.
Very interesting review Ian, thanks for sharing it. The new office is looking great, very nicely finished indeed!😊
Thanks buddy, glad you like it 👍👍
also, set your D pad up and down to be ISO, and then its pretty easy to set ISO. then you can remap the ISO button to something else.
I have an XT-2 w/power booster grip, and am ready to upgrade. I'm considering both the X-H2 and H2S. I agree that the extra resolution is not that much of an advantage and would rather work 26MP files. I am an enthusiast and do a mixture of landscape and travel photography. I'm curious if you considered the X-H2S? It has all the advantages of the X-H2 without the larger files size. I don't like spending more for the X-H2S but other than that...
yeah, i think i would go with the xh2s if they were both priced the same. Price was the main reason I chose the xh2 👍👍
@dalejohnson8057 I'm in the same position... have an X-T2 with power boost grip. I'm debating the X-H2 or X-H2s. The 40mp would allow me to crop. However, suppose I'd get more in-focus shots with the better X-H2s autofocus. I just keep using the X-T2 because I can't decide which to upgraded to : )
I agree with you about the Filter setting on the PASM dial, especially as it is a professional camera. After seeing the total solar eclipse in Argentina in 2019 we went to Chile to see the Very Large Telescope. In the evening we went out miles into the desert to do some astronomy and had a go at doing some astrophotography using the X-E3 with a Samyang 12mm lens. On setting up the camera, I realised that I couldn't take if off the JPG only setting, because it was pitch black and only had a torch for additional lighting I couldn't see what the problem was. On wasting a lot of time and getting nowhere, I had to rush to take some photographs in JPG. On arriving back at the hotel I realised that I accidentally knocked the "auto mode selector lever". Sometimes camera manufacturers get the ergonomics wrong.
The intro phot with the rocks and swirly water… have you tried taking this sort of photo nearer to ground-height? I find that shoreline photos work best, most of the time, when taking from around knee-height… makes getting a meaningful foreground and subject much easier too, and makes the sky fill the upper 2/3 typically of the scene
I have, but for this particular shot the sky above my frame was very grey with not a lot of interest, so I opted to focus more on the foreground and only show 1/3 sky. Your technique definitely works if there's an epic sky. 👍👍
@@ian_worth ok… I can see the situation you’re describing also working with the situation you briefly described now
Hi Ian, what was the outcome of the excessive noise you were getting on the XT-5 files compared to the 26mg pixels of the XT-4? I've been considering moving to the XT-5 or X-H2 but after seeing that I'm not sure. Is the process better in Capture 1?
ISO feature on XE-4 scroll wheel is intuitive. So they can do it.
How is the 13mm when exposed to the elements in your video? Does the humidity or water impact it? Thanks!
Haven't had any probs so far. 👍
Love the title!
Another thought provoking video Ian. Thanks. I will stick with my current xt3 set up for now. If I do upgrade I think the xt5 is probably better suited to me personally as I hardly ever shoot video. Thanks for your hard work. Cheers.
Thanks Steve 👍
I was strongly considering getting the XH2. I absolutely loved the grip, the custom buttons and the top lcd readout. But in the end, I decided on the XT5 as small and light are the most important to me, as well as the flip up screen. And I soooo agree with you on the filter dial.
yeah, they need to loose the filter option 👍👍
Thanks for the great overview
I would purchase the X-H2s wirh its stacked sensor for low light sports and theater.
Is there a way to shut off the secondary LCD screen when the camera is also turned off. If you cannot, can you at least change the fields? When the camera is off, secondary LCD shows ‘0h00m’, is it supposed to change to the battery time level left?
More relevant choice maybe why xh2 and not xh2s … for wedding work it’s better, 26mp more than enough and slightly better high iso and also more robust af settings and more. I have both and hardly use my xh2 as the xh2s is wow, I even leave my Sony A9ll in the cupboard these days as well. A 40mp Fuji file slows down my computer more than my A7rIV, which is now sold but still another reason I personally prefer the xh2s to my xh2 … both great cameras though
You are right, if I could go back in time, I would probably pick the x-h2s 👍 it was the cost that swayed me more than anything though 👍
Latest firmware now allows ISO to be set to one of your command dials... finally...
yey 👍👍
I shoot cityscape around NYC, and landscapes. I shot swans in the eat river near the Whitestone Bridge. The bird 🐦 autofocus was outstanding.The XT5 is too small for me, and you get way more features for your money with the. XH2
I just got a XH2s and installed the latest firmware and if I press the iso, the up and down buttons work the way you customized it.
it's cool, but I'm very disappointed that it didn't come with a paper manual!
Interesting. if you map the D-pad buttons to iso its saves pressing the iso button first. 👍
Hey Ian! 100% agree that the Filter setting is useless. I'm on the X-H2S
yeah, what's the point in it. ha ha
Hi Ian, another great video. I have just returned back into Fuji from XT3 and 2 days. Must say I love the XH2 and your input has helped me with my decision. I am tending to stick with the best performing lenses and have started with the 16-55 F/2.8 which I owned previously. I was wondering what L plate you use?
Thanks David, here's my L bracket, i made th-cam.com/users/shortsNiQvklfIVcE?feature=share
I guess it wouldn't be a Fuji camera without some "Fuji-isms", I guess! Odd that they restrict the programming of the front/rear dials, when many of their lenses have an aperture ring - they should just let you choose SS/ISO for the dials, like pretty much every other camera. Some also noted the option to reverse the dial direction doesn't work for ISO, probably because of that vertical menu they pop up. Hopefully they'll fix some of these weird things in firmware soon.
Man, there's so much stuff in this camera that I really don't need as a wildlife/macro photographer, but I'm not a fan of the grip and dials on the X-T5. I'll wait another couple of months, maybe the X-S20 will be a better, cheaper solution that fits my needs.
Since pretty much all of the lenses have an aperture ring they could youst put the shutterspeed on one dial and then iso or exposure compensation on the other
i feel like that would make it alot faster and intuitive
Totally agree 👍👍
Define professional work...
It is really crazy that "pro" Fuji cameras have Filter modes but not a simple point and shoot Auto mode. If need be.
wait, you can't just click the front dial and have it toggle between exposure compensation, iso, and aperture? i have an x-pro3 and x-t3 and both of those will let me set the physical iso and exposure compensation dials to "C" (Command) or the Aperture ring on ringed lenses to "A" and the button setting in the menus set to have A act as C instead of automatic. once those are set i can control them with the front dial one at a time, cycling by either clicking the x-t3 front dial or pushing a button next to it on the x-pro3. i don't remember if these are the default functions for those actions, but holding down the DISP button while the camera is ready will let me change out the function for all of the buttons/dials.
i can't imagine the x-h2/s not having the same features available considering they functionally always have exp-comp and iso set to "C"
you cant press the command dials on the x-h2 apparently this is due to the improved weather sealing 👍
Ian I just wanted to thank you for your content. You're one of my favourite photographer/youtubers as I like that you actually go out and shoot kit in the field. I'd love to hear what your settings are for the XH2 for weddings. I have the XH2 and XH2S - I feel that the extra resolution of the XH2 is really dependent on the lens that you use. However I do find that in lower light places I'm preferring the XH2S where the AF is literally on another level and file sizes make for a nicer workflow. I tend not to worry about weight differences with FF (I'm coming from FF Sony A1 ) and body weight wasn't the driving factor, it was the all round capabilities in a single small package that got me.... pro-res internal recording, unlimited 4k record, much better IBIS, better jpeg configuration settings.
I'm really loving the XH2 duo. Hoping that Fuji update the XH2 firmware to match the recent XH2S :)
Thanks Tom, that means a lot 😊🙏🙏
Love the video and have subscribed. Money no object, would the faster autofocus of the 'S' (and easier workflow) trump the extra MP? I'm looking at the XH2s, the XH2 and the XT5. I have an XT3 but the lenses I prefer are unstabilized. Most important subjects to me are fast moving children!
For fast moving subjects i think the xh2s would be the best option, if money wasn't a concern 👍👍
@@ian_worth Hey, I took your advice and went for the XH2S. I'm looking forward to learning to use it! Many thanks
If your a photo centric user then the xt5 is a no brainer with its lighter body for primes and cheaper ssd cards and you can always buy the extra grip for zoom heavier lenses too, and that flippy screen is great at weddings or shooting holding the camera above your head or using the xt5 low to the ground where the xh2 screen is a pain to use
There is no grip support on the XT5.
@@Tyetheberious whilst there isn’t a battery grip available but there is the option of a Fuji hand grip available
@@Pixelpeeps-69 Ahh, right you are.
There are plenty of other good second hand older cameras that are more than enough up for the job delivering fantastic results with good glass but of course its the user overall that counts.
So true 👍👍
I'm sure you already know, but just in case - the latest X-H2 firmware allows you to assign ISO to either the forward or rear dials. Thank heavens!
Thanks buddy, i will check that out, about time aye 👍
The real problem is with any new camera is for video it is all well and good putting them on a tripod. If you are travelling and just want to pan around a little bit, the IBIS that is designed to "latch" on to whatever you want to look at for stills, if you try and move your camera even 1 cm your video just jerks. My phone (and definitely my GoPro) is better for video in a travel situation TBH.
if you turn off digital stabilization, its less jerky + don't forget phones and gopro's have a really wide lens, try putting your widest lens on and giving that a go 👍
I am not a pro photographer, but I don't understand why adjusting the ISO is a problem. I mainly shoot by setting the apperture, sometimes the SS for creative purpose, but my ISO is on Auto and I adjust the exposure to the left of the histogram (most of the time, again unless for creative purpose)... To me ISO is more a concequence of my artistic choices, or the fact that there is not enough light... I may have a custom setting for landscape where I have the iso set and be on AutoSS... What bugs me however is that when I'm in AutoISO1 (set with a minSS of 1/125), I wish I could see the ISO selected when I compose...
Its only a problem when in full manual mode and more so when shooting video. For video, ideally you will need to keep the shutter at 1/50 or twice the frame rate and then the aperture will be your creative choice which means using iso or an ND filter to change exposure. When I'm filming weddings, I'm constantly using my iso when shooting indoors. Auto iso is not ideal for this as you need to be in control of what part of the scene is exposed correctly. 👍👍
Regarding seeing the ISO: Isn't it so that you do see the ISO when pressing the shutter halfway? Then that might help to at least get the indication.
@@davidengelen7300 Oh yes thank you. You do see it...
We are spoiled these days with the camera tech available. We can concentrate on being more creative and get things done more quickly. My X T3 has taken me to the next level as I'm sure it has many others! Weight is still a problem, so I've learned not to carry lenses that i don't need or rarely use.
Great point buddy. Less is often more. 👍
I have never used filter mode lol
I'm interested you don't feel the need for full frame for weddings?
I've been shooting high-end weddings for over 15 years, the first 9 years were on Nikon full frame the last 6 with fuji apsc. That's probably around 450 weddings and not once has a client mentioned anything regarding image quality. Yes, the noise performance in low light isn't as good on an apsc camera but with the clever use of light and the use of bounced flash when required. The results a very similar. The bonus is that the overall weight and form factor is a lot smaller, especially if you shoot with 2 cameras.
@@ian_worth fair enough
Ref. ISO. There are three auto-iso situps (that I use) and you ned the meny to change these.
yeah auto iso can be very useful 👍👍
Ian, all your recent videos about the 40Mp sensor are really useful. I have the XT2 (my first Fuji love) and the XT3. The latter developed a fault, the battery lost 10% of power every 24 hours, and it wasn't a battery issue. Then the XT3 shut down completely and lost all settings even the date and time etc. As a landscape photographer, my choice was to go for the XT5 or get the XT3 repaired. The IBIS of the XT5 would be nice but I don't want or need 40Mp, and your video confirmed the minimal, if any, IQ improvement over a 26Mp sensor. So I paid the fixed £180 repair fee and sent the XT3 to Fuji. The day after it was received by Fuji I got confirmation that it was repaired and on its way back; with a new main printed circuit board, a new internal back up battery, and a general service and sensor clean. Brilliant service from Fuji and the right decision for me, in my opinion. Helped in no small measure by your videos. Thank you!
Great to hear buddy 👍👍
You should go with the XH2s if you think the 40 MP is not worth it.
Hi Ian - Just wondering why you/anyone would prefer the XT5/XH2 instead of buying the full frame 45MP Nikon Z7? I only ask as you can now buy a Nikon Z7 2nd hand for the same price as these Fuji cameras.
Weight, size and cost would be the main benefits. Full frame will give you better IQ in poor light when using higher iso. In good light for landscapes, there's probably not a huge difference in image quality. Full frame may be marginally better, but you would have to look hard for the differences. Just depends what your shooting and personal preference. I shot Nikon full frame for over 10 years before moving to the smaller fuji system. There's no right or wrongs, its a bit like cars really, choose the one you like the look of 👍👍
@@ian_worth Thanks for the reply :) I just checked and the Nikon Z7 only weighs 15 grams more and is 500 pounds cheaper on ebay than the XH-2 (as they have more 2nd hand available due to it being an older camera). As I only shoot landscapes do you think that will be the better buy over the XH2? They also have a 24-200mm lens which is 570g and very affordable that's what got me thinking about it in the first place to save weight and just carry 1 lens
Both great cameras for Landscapes my friend. Give careful consideration to the lenses you want because ultimately that's what your buying into. Do some comparisons between similar lenses. ie the 24-70 f2.8 Nikon and the 16-55 f2.8 fuji. Both superb lenses, but that will give you an idea of weight and cost comparisons.
@@ian_worth Great thanks for your thoughts Ian. I only shoot landscapes (or use vintage lenses) so think I'll save some money/weight and get the Z7 and the 24-200. Cheers and great videos
Why don't you use a lens hood?
I cant get the hood on if I'm using filters, i just shield the lens with my hand if required 👍
Surely 40mp on a crop sensor gives bad low light performance.
Not really.
Total waste of space and use is the filters, yes shove that feature into the menus, be great if Fujifilm had live ND shooting like the OM system has, ND2 (EV) all the way to ND32 (5EV) with live view.
That would be cool. 👍
No worry, you’ll get soon on X-H6s Fujifilm is very responsive 😂😂😂😂
Ge the X-S20 instead and be happy.
Your shitter release cable? :P
🤣
My first intro to Fujifilm was an X-T20 and I will sheepishly admit to trying out the filter function (the faux tilt lens effect). It was amusing for a few shots, but the colours are garishly amplified and you have no image control. It has no place on a flagship bodies. I suspect it might be a cultural thing that some of the filters are more acceptable in Japan. Keep in mind that South East Asia loves "Hello Kitty" themes and the like. I was in Vietnam last week visiting my wife's family and a fad for women there is fake cat ears on their moto helmets. Thus what seems odd or tacky to us in the West may not be seen as such everywhere.
The XH2 IBIS is awful for video, I have the camera and it's jerky as hell handheld. Always requires stab in post for me...
There is a static option and an option for panning, have you tried both?
@@ian_worth I've tried IBIS, IBIS/OIS and IBIS/OIS +DIS (boost). Is there another mode I've missed? in video this is...
@@MindfulMotorcyclist I think if you are being very still ibis with boost will work the best, if you are moving/ panning then just ibis. The shorter the focal length the better or less jerky it will be.
I guess you come from a phone and dont know much about cameras… cameras dont have iphone stanilisation. In fact fuji ibis is very good. Its absolutely normal you have to stabilize video in edit.
I use FILTER all the time! JK
Awesome 👍👍📸
If you add 120fps, open gate and better auto focus I would sell all my Sony stuff tomorrow.
I have to say i'm disappointed with the IQ of mine.
Nah...i was looking into getting one but then came to my senses. Will be buying a Canon R5 instead.
Yeah the R5 looks amazing, let me know how you get on with it 👍
Hope you can afford the lenses.
@@kaneclements7761 You get what you pay for.
@@chacmool2581 Nah! With Canon you pay what they want for you to get it. Closed system for R glass. You are going to be bleeding cash to service the R5. Good camera though.
Agree on "Filter" setting. "C8" would be much more useful instead. Another pointless button is "WB" (shooting JPEGs with top $2k camera? who does this?).
ISO selection method is a pain indeed, but there's no room for dedicated ISO dial - the LCD occupies it.
I shoot JPEGs on this camera specifically for the film sims, many people shoot the fuji system for this..
@@collodionpositive554 sorry to hear that