THIS IS THE VIDEO I NEEDED TO SEE!!! I admit, if ANYTHING has a weak link, I WILL FIND IT. I bought my '18 Si with 11K and it was tuned shortly after. I did Ktuner with TSP stage 1, along with a 27WON cold air intake and only run 93 octane. Within 10K, the stock clutch started slipping on the highway. I replaced that and all has been well ever since. I did have an issue where the one wire broke in the main harness that goes from the ECU to the solenoid that controls the air recirc valve. (A SO-CALLED KNOWN ISSUE ON THE Si) I had that fixed. A day later, I started getting P0303 cylinder #3 misfires and limp mode. I saw coolant was low, so I took it to my speed shop and they found that the head gasket was leaking internally between cylinders 2 and 3. This was discovered in September of 2022. I had the shop gather everything needed to do the job, including ordering the ARP head stud kit from Two Step Performance. ($300.00) Well, after 6 months of waiting and no response from TSP, I told the shop to cancel the head stud order from TSP and just replace the head gasket. The shop did replace the stock head studs with OEM Honda studs for an additional $43.00. After the job was done, the shop said that if I came across some ARP studs from a different source, that they could install them. Sure enough, I did some digging and found out that MA Performance sells a kit. I hope to get them in this week! Next up will be the Mishimoto front mount intercooler and piping kit. The stock intercoolers work ok for short bursts of speed, but not LONG highway pulls. Also, as the miles pile on, the stock intercooler gets hit with small rocks and debris which slowly reduces its efficiency by bending the fins, closing off airflow through the intercooler. Hopefully, this combo will work awesome for my driving habits and needs! Remember: with these Civics, you get what you pay for. My 2018 had an MSRP of $24,995.00. Honda had to cut as many corners as they could in order to stay competitive in this segment of the market. I am willing to bet that if you never tuned your Si and kept it stock, many of the problems with these cars would never come to light. We the people are the ones doing the RIGOROUS testing. WE are the GUINEA PIGS LoL. Hopefully we can help out our other fellow Si owners and prepare them so they may never experience the same problems!
Always dudes like this that push the car knowing damn well it can't without some mods and say the 10th gen is a problem when many of us don't have that problem
I love my 2018 Civic EXT. I’m a longevity nut rather than a performance gear head. Never modded, never tuned. Never redlined. All stock. Four years, 121,000 trouble-free miles averaging 34.2 mpg. Hope to get 300,000 miles on the original engine/transmission.
Currently have a 390whp type r I’ve had tuned since 1k miles and no issues. I came from a 10th gen si which I had at 28-29psi for 50k miles on a mapp intake, downpipe,and e30 blend. I bought that si with 13k miles. Tuned it with the intake and mapp tune at about 16k miles. At 25k did the dp and the pherable tune, and then e30 at about 31k miles. it until 63k where I sold it. My buddy bought it and is at 28k running a 28psi pherable gas tune. Still no issues, maintained in half increments. Oil no more than 5k miles, coolant at 25k, manual Tran fluid at 25k, and spark plugs at 50k
I have a 10th gen Si and was looking around for the ARP studs when I was planning out my build, one of the first things I had thought of. Good info in this video.
I genuinely don't think there are any turbo motors that can last as long as an N/A engine. The 500,000 mile or 1M mile Honda days are over. This is not to say they aren't reliable, but you just can't get past the nature of a forced induction engine.
People on the forum say e85 will cause head gasket issues. Im glad someone understands that it’s not the e85 it’s the amount of boost and how much you beat on your car. Been on e85 for like 12k miles & I’m still doing fine. If anyones considering high boost just rebuild your internals especially head studs. The issue happens a lot with L15B7’s because the si can ramp up higher boost than the hatch. L15BA’s don’t run into that issue as fast. At the end of the day it’s only a 1.5 liter engine
Only issue I ever had was valve cover gasket leak. I ran phearable 1.5R and constantly saw 26-27psi so I figured e85 was the issue not the 25psi he was making. One thing I will say about power metrics is that it makes a ton of torque at 3k vs 4-4.5k on phearable so I’m curious if that’s a probably factor.
The engine also has small inlet grooves between the cylinder walls, much like the Ford Ecoboost engines. They had a huge number of head gasket failures in that engine so expect honda 1.5T to follow suit.
Head gasket usually fail from heat. If i were to add more boost, i would have the cam timing advance a little later. And probably put in a 3 layer mls head gasket. I would never hunt for more torque in a smaller motor. You could probably go to 7700 rpm. Those motors shouldn't cost too much.
For any with the same problem I have a 2018 Honda Civic EX HB L15BA CVT (125k miles) car is completely stock oil changes done every 3k miles I don’t trust anything passed due to the turbo getting lubricated with the same engine oil after 5k miles the oil is filthy. Coolant flush and new thermostat at 100k miles since is my daily and commute 300 miles every day. I started noticing around 124.5k miles that my coolant was going low frequently, I did a oil change with filter oil up to spec 3 days later I check the oil and it was sitting very low not dry but low so I put more to spec not really sure what the issue was at the time and after starting the car it was having a rough start it would turn on, on the first try but could hear the engine struggling to turn over. Soon the car lit me a whole Christmas tree on the dash but no limp mode the car drove well I made it home check the dip stick and what do you know have a lot of oil and coolant gaabaagoo haven’t started the car until my mechanic came and told me it’s a head gasket issue. Doing a head gasket replacement sending the head to the machine shop and arp head studs to have a well enough engine for 200k+. Owned the car since November 2020 with 34k miles past owners have kept up with maintenance as well.
my 10th gen has 22k miles and i believe im having this problem. the sad part is that the car is still stock but it still misfires at around 3500 rpm and the startup sounds flooded
I have a 2016 exl I purchased it new .. I have 185,000 mi it did exactly what you said started sputtering I took it to Honda last year around 180,000 they tested it exactly what you said and guess what my head was going all this time. They know about a problem with this engine that’s why they extended the warranty on the 1.5 engines for 6 hrs unlimited miles
Everything you said is fact. I tried telling my mechanic this and he wouldn’t believe me…he did the compression test and said it was good and I tried telling him it doesn’t matter it’s head lift anyways long story short I got a new mechanic and did a special test that tests for exhaust gasses and changes the color and confirmed it was the head gasket.
I have a family member with a 2017 civic with the 2.0 NA , the combustion chamber is getting alot of coolant. Sparkplugs dripping wet. They didnt overheated or anything, im thinking the head bolts are the culprit, im thinking of just changing the head bolts.
just ordered my R365 turbo with the E30 tune since I'm already on flex and am going to attempt the MAPerformace headstud kit as well since I'm also nearing 60k miles. We'll see how long she holds together, but I also rarely get on it in my car.
I'm wondering what kind of cookie that is lol! I know this kid and he knows his shit! Also good job keeping the swearing to minimum for that TH-cam love! Flo.
500 Hp on a 1.5 GOTDAMN!!! got a 2015 Honda fit with a 6-speed in it. Don't know whether to K-swap, or look for an SI 1.5 T to throw in it. Great information man.
From a L15 owner if you don’t want any hiccups reliable power will be the K series reliably a L15 can hold 300whp with ARP head studs if you want anything over 500whp in a L15 sleeves play a major role play watch: ososik on TH-cam mans has the most powerful si 600hp+
Yo what’s goin on g. I have a 2020 si, started sputtering, loosing coolant , def head gasket issue, could I get away with replacing head studs with arp studs. One at a time or should I just get the head pulled and do the head gasket and new head studs ? I do have an extended warranty on car, it’s past factory warranty, but have a Route 66 extended warranty, car has 90k miles, first owner, completely stock.
@@rpmraf9814 you work for Honda or a shop in ct? I’m in ma , what you spend at machine shop/gasket/studs? I can tackle this job myself but having that bumper to bumper warranty I might as well try to get it done through the warranty, just nervous theyre gonna give me the run around and try to pin it on me, car is taking care of maintenance wise by me, it’s just driven hard sometimes on my 60 mile daily commute.
@@MrCaliforniabound I own my own shop in ct, not far from mass. I’m also dmv licensed so I can go through your extended warranty. Give us a call! Shop phone is 4753516120 Rpm Automotive Repairs
Video is right on These come from factory tuned for reliability and longevity. Reading some of these comments Why do people upgrade their 1.5 with a CVT ??? Lmaoooo
i have the 22 civic hatchback ex 1.5T CVT. I am looking into ARP head studs now before hondata custom tune. I have PRL intercooler dp and fp waiting to be installed rn.
Ive got a 5th gen integra w the 1.5t and this sounds like a safe idea before I go and get a Hondata flash pro or Ktuner. Also looking into that PRL Intercooler + charge piping and the high volume intake - just no funds for all that rn lol and it hasn’t even been 45 days
@@Tatus_legarius i did prl intercooler dp and front pipe. With hondata basemap. With a short commute to work about 7 miles i dont beat on it. Tbh the car just feels quicker and overall smoother then stock. Octane 93.
Hey you are located in CT? I’m in CT too and I’m looking for ARP Studs installed. Do you have a shop I can contact? I have W1 and flex fuel but stopped running ethanol when turbo upgrade to prevent damaging heads. I ran ethanol rarely too… I think the engine is healthy as logs show engine temps 176 degrees and no misfires etc. thanks for video and support.
Hmm, im in a 2020 with 82k miles, I am setup for the PHEARABLE 1.5R 26psi and not having this issue yet. Every day I drive it (and thats every day) I punch it wide open, i at least run it to 143mph once a week... id say im pretty hard on it. I do not have these issues. However, I have a buddy who doesnt run 26psi, he runs 23 and hes having thia issue with his 2018.... i run about a 25% blend of e85 which usually test at 80-85% from Krogers in dallas... maybe its just an issue with the older modles? I mean if anything, I should be experiencing these issues right? Im on my 3rd set of tires and going on 4th very soon. Second clutch as well... maybe im just lucky?
@@roby4h3ll83 eh you are at 82k miles so that actually makes sense. Im only at 59k. My tires are rated for 60k miles yet I've only put about 35k on them and they are about due for a swap.
I’m tuned with phearable stage 1.5. I usually never go above low boost mode (19.5psi) Most of the time I don’t go above 12-15 psi when I’m driving. Do I have to worry about my head potentially lifting??
Yo…….. this just solved me issue. My car ran out of coolant out of no where ( tough times don’t ask lol ) but it does what he’s saying. It Fucking sputters. Driving normal it’s fine. But if you get on it. It drives like shit. So it’s a god damn head gasket like I thought a while ago.
@@ka-baboy1605 just replace the head stud by ARP studs before you get head gasket blow👍 This is the part number of ARP studs ARP head studs:# ARP-271-4701
THIS IS THE VIDEO I NEEDED TO SEE!!! I admit, if ANYTHING has a weak link, I WILL FIND IT. I bought my '18 Si with 11K and it was tuned shortly after. I did Ktuner with TSP stage 1, along with a 27WON cold air intake and only run 93 octane. Within 10K, the stock clutch started slipping on the highway. I replaced that and all has been well ever since. I did have an issue where the one wire broke in the main harness that goes from the ECU to the solenoid that controls the air recirc valve. (A SO-CALLED KNOWN ISSUE ON THE Si) I had that fixed. A day later, I started getting P0303 cylinder #3 misfires and limp mode. I saw coolant was low, so I took it to my speed shop and they found that the head gasket was leaking internally between cylinders 2 and 3. This was discovered in September of 2022. I had the shop gather everything needed to do the job, including ordering the ARP head stud kit from Two Step Performance. ($300.00) Well, after 6 months of waiting and no response from TSP, I told the shop to cancel the head stud order from TSP and just replace the head gasket. The shop did replace the stock head studs with OEM Honda studs for an additional $43.00. After the job was done, the shop said that if I came across some ARP studs from a different source, that they could install them. Sure enough, I did some digging and found out that MA Performance sells a kit. I hope to get them in this week! Next up will be the Mishimoto front mount intercooler and piping kit. The stock intercoolers work ok for short bursts of speed, but not LONG highway pulls. Also, as the miles pile on, the stock intercooler gets hit with small rocks and debris which slowly reduces its efficiency by bending the fins, closing off airflow through the intercooler. Hopefully, this combo will work awesome for my driving habits and needs! Remember: with these Civics, you get what you pay for. My 2018 had an MSRP of $24,995.00. Honda had to cut as many corners as they could in order to stay competitive in this segment of the market. I am willing to bet that if you never tuned your Si and kept it stock, many of the problems with these cars would never come to light. We the people are the ones doing the RIGOROUS testing. WE are the GUINEA PIGS LoL. Hopefully we can help out our other fellow Si owners and prepare them so they may never experience the same problems!
Dear diary,
@@SirUncleCid I know right!?! I just hate a bunch of short comments, so I put up the whole story. So far my car is running great!
Honda don't care a shit if the people use this normal Cars for playing like a little boys
@@RodofAllTradesstill have it?
Always dudes like this that push the car knowing damn well it can't without some mods and say the 10th gen is a problem when many of us don't have that problem
I love my 2018 Civic EXT. I’m a longevity nut rather than a performance gear head. Never modded, never tuned. Never redlined. All stock.
Four years, 121,000 trouble-free miles averaging 34.2 mpg. Hope to get 300,000 miles on the original engine/transmission.
2017 sport civic hatchback CVT, all original . Trouble free. Maintienece on point....191,000 miles....and going
Never redlined?? Bro it’s a civic
Sometimes...amsoil SS
@@politicalcommentary3452 Ok?
Currently have a 390whp type r I’ve had tuned since 1k miles and no issues.
I came from a 10th gen si which I had at 28-29psi for 50k miles on a mapp intake, downpipe,and e30 blend. I bought that si with 13k miles. Tuned it with the intake and mapp tune at about 16k miles. At 25k did the dp and the pherable tune, and then e30 at about 31k miles. it until 63k where I sold it. My buddy bought it and is at 28k running a 28psi pherable gas tune. Still no issues, maintained in half increments. Oil no more than 5k miles, coolant at 25k, manual Tran fluid at 25k, and spark plugs at 50k
Weak rods, rod bolts, and head bolts are the biggest weakness of these engines.
I have a 10th gen Si and was looking around for the ARP studs when I was planning out my build, one of the first things I had thought of. Good info in this video.
So, you only had problems because you messed with it. Okay, cool.
I genuinely don't think there are any turbo motors that can last as long as an N/A engine. The 500,000 mile or 1M mile Honda days are over. This is not to say they aren't reliable, but you just can't get past the nature of a forced induction engine.
This makes me sad 😢
This engine was never designed for tuning or add more power from stock without upgrading the engine
People on the forum say e85 will cause head gasket issues. Im glad someone understands that it’s not the e85 it’s the amount of boost and how much you beat on your car. Been on e85 for like 12k miles & I’m still doing fine. If anyones considering high boost just rebuild your internals especially head studs. The issue happens a lot with L15B7’s because the si can ramp up higher boost than the hatch. L15BA’s don’t run into that issue as fast. At the end of the day it’s only a 1.5 liter engine
Only issue I ever had was valve cover gasket leak. I ran phearable 1.5R and constantly saw 26-27psi so I figured e85 was the issue not the 25psi he was making. One thing I will say about power metrics is that it makes a ton of torque at 3k vs 4-4.5k on phearable so I’m curious if that’s a probably factor.
The engine also has small inlet grooves between the cylinder walls, much like the Ford Ecoboost engines. They had a huge number of head gasket failures in that engine so expect honda 1.5T to follow suit.
Head gasket usually fail from heat. If i were to add more boost, i would have the cam timing advance a little later. And probably put in a 3 layer mls head gasket. I would never hunt for more torque in a smaller motor. You could probably go to 7700 rpm. Those motors shouldn't cost too much.
For any with the same problem I have a 2018 Honda Civic EX HB L15BA CVT (125k miles) car is completely stock oil changes done every 3k miles I don’t trust anything passed due to the turbo getting lubricated with the same engine oil after 5k miles the oil is filthy. Coolant flush and new thermostat at 100k miles since is my daily and commute 300 miles every day. I started noticing around 124.5k miles that my coolant was going low frequently, I did a oil change with filter oil up to spec 3 days later I check the oil and it was sitting very low not dry but low so I put more to spec not really sure what the issue was at the time and after starting the car it was having a rough start it would turn on, on the first try but could hear the engine struggling to turn over. Soon the car lit me a whole Christmas tree on the dash but no limp mode the car drove well I made it home check the dip stick and what do you know have a lot of oil and coolant gaabaagoo haven’t started the car until my mechanic came and told me it’s a head gasket issue. Doing a head gasket replacement sending the head to the machine shop and arp head studs to have a well enough engine for 200k+. Owned the car since November 2020 with 34k miles past owners have kept up with maintenance as well.
Appreciate the video. I live in CT. How much would you charge to swap the head bolts?
Please contact me @king_rafito on Instagram or my phone number directly 203-993-1899.To talk pricing and have you scheduled in!
Same ct love the high taxes
my 10th gen has 22k miles and i believe im having this problem. the sad part is that the car is still stock but it still misfires at around 3500 rpm and the startup sounds flooded
Did you buy the car new ? Or used
I have a 2016 exl I purchased it new .. I have 185,000 mi it did exactly what you said started sputtering I took it to Honda last year around 180,000 they tested it exactly what you said and guess what my head was going all this time. They know about a problem with this engine that’s why they extended the warranty on the 1.5 engines for 6 hrs unlimited miles
I have a 21 exl with 107k miles. They would not cover it under warranty
Everything you said is fact. I tried telling my mechanic this and he wouldn’t believe me…he did the compression test and said it was good and I tried telling him it doesn’t matter it’s head lift anyways long story short I got a new mechanic and did a special test that tests for exhaust gasses and changes the color and confirmed it was the head gasket.
MAPerformance also has there own in house brand head studs, both arp and map a pretty reputable companies just depends what route you wanna take
I have a family member with a 2017 civic with the 2.0 NA , the combustion chamber is getting alot of coolant. Sparkplugs dripping wet. They didnt overheated or anything, im thinking the head bolts are the culprit, im thinking of just changing the head bolts.
just ordered my R365 turbo with the E30 tune since I'm already on flex and am going to attempt the MAPerformace headstud kit as well since I'm also nearing 60k miles. We'll see how long she holds together, but I also rarely get on it in my car.
I'm wondering what kind of cookie that is lol! I know this kid and he knows his shit! Also good job keeping the swearing to minimum for that TH-cam love! Flo.
500 Hp on a 1.5 GOTDAMN!!! got a 2015 Honda fit with a 6-speed in it. Don't know whether to K-swap, or look for an SI 1.5 T to throw in it. Great information man.
From a L15 owner if you don’t want any hiccups reliable power will be the K series reliably a L15 can hold 300whp with ARP head studs if you want anything over 500whp in a L15 sleeves play a major role play watch: ososik on TH-cam mans has the most powerful si 600hp+
Super informative, thanks bud.
I just bought my 2020 civic si with 30k should I change it out now or later?
Yo what’s goin on g. I have a 2020 si, started sputtering, loosing coolant , def head gasket issue, could I get away with replacing head studs with arp studs. One at a time or should I just get the head pulled and do the head gasket and new head studs ? I do have an extended warranty on car, it’s past factory warranty, but have a Route 66 extended warranty, car has 90k miles, first owner, completely stock.
@@MrCaliforniabound pull the head, take it to a machine shop, get a new head gasket and arp head studs!
@@rpmraf9814 you work for Honda or a shop in ct? I’m in ma , what you spend at machine shop/gasket/studs? I can tackle this job myself but having that bumper to bumper warranty I might as well try to get it done through the warranty, just nervous theyre gonna give me the run around and try to pin it on me, car is taking care of maintenance wise by me, it’s just driven hard sometimes on my 60 mile daily commute.
@@MrCaliforniabound I own my own shop in ct, not far from mass. I’m also dmv licensed so I can go through your extended warranty. Give us a call! Shop phone is 4753516120
Rpm Automotive Repairs
Yeah im taking my base tune off. I only did it to fix rev hang and get a little extra boost. Clearly these engines can't handle it
Video is right on
These come from factory tuned for reliability and longevity.
Reading some of these comments
Why do people upgrade their 1.5 with a CVT ??? Lmaoooo
? Is it true On the 10thgen si if you run your car on e85 and don't put that many miles on it per day that it turns your oil into sludge
i have the 22 civic hatchback ex 1.5T CVT. I am looking into ARP head studs now before hondata custom tune. I have PRL intercooler dp and fp waiting to be installed rn.
Ive got a 5th gen integra w the 1.5t and this sounds like a safe idea before I go and get a Hondata flash pro or Ktuner. Also looking into that PRL Intercooler + charge piping and the high volume intake - just no funds for all that rn lol and it hasn’t even been 45 days
@@Tatus_legarius i did prl intercooler dp and front pipe. With hondata basemap. With a short commute to work about 7 miles i dont beat on it. Tbh the car just feels quicker and overall smoother then stock. Octane 93.
Thanks for this info
Does anybody have idea on how much it cost to replace a head gasket for a 10th gen civic? Thanks in advance. I'm having the same problem.
Ill never have this issue with my type r thankfully
Hey you are located in CT? I’m in CT too and I’m looking for ARP Studs installed. Do you have a shop I can contact? I have W1 and flex fuel but stopped running ethanol when turbo upgrade to prevent damaging heads. I ran ethanol rarely too… I think the engine is healthy as logs show engine temps 176 degrees and no misfires etc. thanks for video and support.
We are located in Ct, business phone is 475-351-6120
My car smells like burning oil and while driving sometimes it’ll smoke a lot out of the exhaust , what could it be ??
Check your fluids and see if you are loosing coolant or oil. If you are catless the smell/ smoke is normal
I’ve been running into this same problem but I checked the oil & I don’t see any mixture . I’m getting excessive smoke from the exhaust.
Me as well, lots of white ish smoke on idle when its warm, unsure of why that is
Great video 🔥🔥🔥
I’m in the process of switching over to e85 is this something I should do when or before getting the kit and tune installed?
Yes!
shit, my hatch is at 59k. its stock though. Am I looking at a head gasket job soon??!!
great content subbed
Si is going back to the D16 days.
Hmm, im in a 2020 with 82k miles, I am setup for the PHEARABLE 1.5R 26psi and not having this issue yet. Every day I drive it (and thats every day) I punch it wide open, i at least run it to 143mph once a week... id say im pretty hard on it. I do not have these issues. However, I have a buddy who doesnt run 26psi, he runs 23 and hes having thia issue with his 2018.... i run about a 25% blend of e85 which usually test at 80-85% from Krogers in dallas... maybe its just an issue with the older modles? I mean if anything, I should be experiencing these issues right? Im on my 3rd set of tires and going on 4th very soon. Second clutch as well... maybe im just lucky?
4th set of tires? I'm barely about to start my 3rd set come this winter and im in a 2018. are you tokyo drifting it or what?
@@Kagemusha320 lol nahh, just tires don't hook up lolol
@@roby4h3ll83 eh you are at 82k miles so that actually makes sense. Im only at 59k. My tires are rated for 60k miles yet I've only put about 35k on them and they are about due for a swap.
I’m tuned with phearable stage 1.5. I usually never go above low boost mode (19.5psi) Most of the time I don’t go above 12-15 psi when I’m driving. Do I have to worry about my head potentially lifting??
based on your boost numbers I would say no. But you never know. All the lifted heads I have seen are around 25psi target
I ran phearable for two years. Didn’t have issues until recently. Kinda shocking, I never beat on it. Launched it once times in 1 year
My 2020 Civic Hatch Oil Pan of the seal was leaking..
Yo…….. this just solved me issue. My car ran out of coolant out of no where ( tough times don’t ask lol ) but it does what he’s saying. It Fucking sputters. Driving normal it’s fine. But if you get on it. It drives like shit. So it’s a god damn head gasket like I thought a while ago.
What’d you end up doing? What was the cost? Thanks
How would u know if u have head gasget prov
Loosing coolant, random misfires, and rough engine starts
@@rpmraf9814 i have pops and bangs is it safe 220whp using hondata im worried about my gssget
@@ka-baboy1605 just replace the head stud by ARP studs before you get head gasket blow👍
This is the part number of ARP studs
ARP head studs:# ARP-271-4701
Amigo? Tienes la manta del turbo? No se te Quema?
No amigo simplemente un mantenimiento de limpieza y no corre ningún riesgo ni con el turbo ni con la bomba de aceite
👍
Yo change my headgasket on my si needs one
This is happening to my accord
Explícalo en español bro