When To Install Shoe Molding VS Caulking - MUST WATCH!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Excellent visual evidence to help you figure out whether to use Shoe Moulding or Caulking for your baseboard gaps. As well my four best Shoe Moulding tips.
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I did a caulk job, where i used my red bar, some ripped wood for backing, and did a second application on a flooring, and she absolutely loved it. Quarter round wood is horrendous on baseboards!!
Really like these videos and his easy-going presentation method. The post-it-note ideas is gold.
Great timing... I'm just about to figure out what mine will look like after I put down my baseboards. I've been told that the gapes are rarely noticed by anyone else but you, the person who installed it and looked for them. We all "see" our own mistakes, far more than anyone else does. ;)
I think I'll leave them as-is and will address them down the road if anyone really does see them. I refer the look of base without shoe-molding myself.
I used flat stock as shoe molding on all my baseboards. I think the flat stock actually makes it look really good. In our bathrooms and kitchen I used pvc flat stock as shoe molding. I caulked the baseboards with silicone and then installed the pvc shoe molding on top of the caulking, creating a waterproof barrier that isn't visible. The shoe molding being pvc adds to the waterproofing as well. This prevents any water damage from splashing or wet mopping.
Love that. Also the vacuum cleaner will just glide along and not damage the wood. It will also be easier to dust it. Every body likes to install these, but keeping it free of dust is a nightmare when cleaning.
Is the flat stock installed on a floating floor system or is the flooring glued down?
@@angellas.1314sooooo the pvc holds a static charge for sure.
I absolutely despise shoe molding! First of all not only does it take away from real estate of the floor but it's a major dust collector! Chaulking and painting for the win!
I absolutely love your videos!! And the outtakes….. they are the cherry on the sundae! 👍🏼🙂
Thank you very much🍻
That model is legit. Great tips!
Will, was it you that suggested to me how to improve that bike rack?
Yes in fact I did. You are the man!@@TheFunnyCarpenter
Shoe gets a bad rap but I think it looks ok mostly, generally avoid caulk as it has a tendency to collect dust and if not painted will discolour over time
I know you're done a lot of caulking videos, so maybe you're not anxious to go in with yet another one. (Here comes the but...) But, I'd love to see a comparison and hear your thoughts about using a profiling tool (like the one from Cramer that I just bought) for getting straight lines, even coverage, smooth surfaces, etc. compared to other methods like finger-swiping, rag, sponge, taping off the edges, etc.
I like it, thanks for the suggestion.
I’d watch that, definitely. We have some major projects that are going to require a lot of caulking coming up, so it’d be a nice comparison to see before we jump in.
In my area the standard practice is to set the saw to a 22.5* miter when abutting the shoe to the casing where just about a 1/4” is removed.
Huh?
If you haven't looked at them, the Makita Quiet series air compressors are *amazing* for small jobs. Would totally love to see your thoughts on them.
I'll check it out!
In my experience, anything where you have a LOT of sand coming in and out of the house, caulk everything. It makes a huge difference as even with shoe molding sand gets underneath. But ya, when possible, avoid shoe molding.
Grew up in a family of old, grumpy carpenters who always said that if you had to use a shoe you’d been lazy somewhere else, so I’m admittedly prejudiced against them. And would rather do the work to scribe a baseboard or just leave it. More than that, I just hate that I can’t actually put anything flush to the wall with the extra molding. If that’s the best (or only) way to go, though, flat stock is really the best way. Quarter round is an abomination.
This comment officially swayed my opinion, I never considered not being able to push furniture flush against the wall!
Baseboard height matters. I went from 3-1/4" which looked worse with shoemolding to 7" with looked worse without it.
Gotta love how nobody ever talks about stained wood trim.
Stained has mostly been out of style for a while
Fair point. You only really see stained wood in old homes or super high end.
@TheFunnyCarpenter still love your channel.
@@JT_70Not really out of style. It just costs more and requires more skill so it isn't offered to standard homes. When I put hardwood in my house I used painted baseboards with stained shoe molding to match the floor and it looks really good.
I was a framer and a trim carpenter on a mansion that probably ended up in the $3-4 million range and they still didn't even really consider stain-grade trim anywhere. It has been less popular than paint-grade for so long now that I think the knowledge of how to do stain-grade well has evaporated from the industry around here. Guys who did it a lot 20-30 years ago still know how and do it well. But the vast majority of guys (me included) have only ever done paint-grade and don't know a lot of the techniques for how to make stained trim look tight and crisp.
I prefer to scribe the mounding. Sometimes you can push them down a bit to fill the gap too…..
'Thank You' ever so much...Great tips for us DIYs!!!
Thanks for watching🍻
Would finger joint stop work if I rip that? I’m trying to figure out how to cover some gaps between floating floor edges and baseboards. Baseboards just aren’t thick enough to cover all the gaps because the flooring I installed had instructions to leave 1/2” to 3/4” gap on outside for expansion. I don’t want to get thicker baseboards because I want baseboards to be thinner than casing.
I always use a bullnose of about ⅛-¼ of an inch or so angle when butting into door casing etc, or just scribe it to the door casing thickness revealed.. But unlike you using 45°.... I always use the 22.5° angle on the bullnose ends. Nice video!
👍🏼✌🏼✌🏼✌🏼
as an aussie painter, our chippies don't really do either. we gap the top and leave the bottom untouched, it leaves a nice cutline anyway. the gap is always pretty close aswell. they make the skirt fit well.
You have a phenomenal (and even that is an euphemism) video on scribing baseboards. These shoe moldings eat up real estate they reduce the perimeter of the room especially in smaller secondary rooms it looks out of place and ugly. Scribing is well worth it even if one has to remove baseboard and reinstall them as i am doing after upgrading the floor. Just use a trim puller grab tool and some quality thick 1/3 inch rubber that you can tape to the shoulder of the tool to eliminate the risk of pushing a hold in the drywall.
Female watching in Australia. I love your videos. I always grab some good tips. Thanks.
Just a perspective from someone that’s a bit anal: Lived in a place that wasn’t old (house built in 2002) with hardwood floors and caulking was used everywhere. About 5 years later the caulking began to slightly change color and it looked absolutely disgusting.
Excellent point on the longevity of the options, thank you🍻
I was told (as a lay person) that I had “taken too much care” of the oiled hardwood floors, using speciality cleaning and wood care products from the German manufacturer AURO that specializes in natural/ecological products. I don’t quite believe it since the color changes in the caulking also happened behind large furniture where I never applied these cleaning/wood care products. Direct sunlight can also be ruled out as the source of the color change.
You have to paint caulking. White caulking not only yellows but the rubberiness of it will attract dust more than painted wood so it ends up looking dark. Putting white caulk on trim looks good for a year or two and then it doesn't.
I have used PVC 1/4 round. Never peels, easy to clean, and the vacuum doesn’t affect them as much as wood 1/4’s.
shoe molding,,, in Australia we call it “Quad Molding”
Fit your base trim properly.
Wow! The flat stock materials look really nice. What a fantastic idea! Just curious about the dimension of the flat materials you are using during the video. I am going to get exactly as that. Thanks.
Excellent video!
Can you do a quick video on how you built your drawers in your garage? Looks like a simple design but super clean and easy to do
Coming soon! by soon I mean in the next year
Im looking forward to it! Love your content by the way
@@TheFunnyCarpenterIsn’t is about that time by now? 😂. I’d love to see that also.
Great tips. Im a leave the gap type of person tho.
This post came at a perfect time for a cottage project, and thanks for the caulking gun tip. Love my red Newborn gun!
Cheers Keith, glad the gun is working out for you🍻
This is totally off topic, but i couldn't help but notice the nice drawer system you have along the wall. Where did you purchase, if I may ask?
I made it out of plywood. Pretty simple to build. I may make a video about it.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter wow. You did a really nice job.
Thank you
@@TheFunnyCarpenterPlease do.
Do you have a video about pvc mouling vs. wood?
I love your content and appreciate the clear, concise and to the point way you explain things. Quick question - what are your thoughts on cutting a return on shoe molding?
If it looks good with the given profiles of the moulding, it can look nice. I would try an avoid situation where you create a sharp edge that may get smashed with a vacuum or shoe.
A mitre box and compatible handsaw is a solid substitute for the mitresaw. It is cheap, quite and easy to transport. I have both, but I tend to grab the mitrebox for light duty like shoemolding.
What is the name of the flat stock? I can't find it under that name from the big box stores.
My preference is for door casing to have a plinth. It makes it much easier to terminate baseboards and provides a uniformity when there are thresholds with doors and some without.
If I was a contractor trying to complete a trim job as quickly as possible, I would do as suggested in this video. But I absolutely love more complete trim designs.
And I would also recommend cutting a return for the 45° end, just as you would for a handrail. But it is a dangerous cut on a power miter saw unless you take precautions. I find it much easier to cut the small pieces by hand.
Stuck in the 80s much. How about you just use shoe moulding on everything , it adds to the finishes and it comes in every shape from colonial to contemporary . Unless your floors are 100% level , you need a finish , caulking is bad , it discolour , it gets ugly within a year . Some are good tips , but nah ...this one is off
Sorry but those lines MUST BE CAULKED! Cracks show off how out of square every single house is, caulk is the way.
My primary reason for wanting to seal a gap is because it’s in my bathroom on an exterior wall and it’s super drafty letting cold air in. Does that aspect change your recommendation? Of course the aesthetics matter, but my primary concern is stopping that airflow.
You shouldn’t have significant airflow under your baseboards. In most cases, and depending on age of the home, the wall cladding (drywall, shiplap, paneling, etc.,) should be covering the sill plate. In addition, insulation within the wall should act as a barrier to air flow.
Regardless, to your question, perhaps use caulk to reduce airflow, then shoe mold for visual appeal if desired.
Dude you rock! So much help on many of your videos. Thank you.
I never comment on TH-cam videos but these are top notch! 2nd year electrical apprentice one Canada. Any channel recommendations?
I use door stop trim instead of quarter round
0:00 Shoe moulding - "My skirting board has it's own skirting board"
What happens if your floor already has shoe molding and there’s a gap underneath both the baseboard and shoe molding? That is the case for our house. The previous owners did a carpet to hardwood floor replacement and there are gaps all over, we have noticed that bugs get in underneath them.
I prefer to scribe if installing over an existing floor i think the time spent cutting shoe and painting/installing/ filling/caulking and painting again!! Is better spent on making the base as tight as possible.
If you have vinyl plank flooring you have no choice between caulking or 1/4. If you caulk the gaps you void the warranty on the plank without a doubt. If you’re the old pro as a carpenter you know you should scribe you’re base
And I guess if your even older you could glue the shoe to the base.
No you’re a base
House came with shoe molding, looks so bad imo that I ripped them all out, the dark wood hides the gap best.
Can I use miter scissors to make a 45 degree cut on thin shoe molding? I'm in a condo. I don't have a place to use a miter saw or store it.
Quarter round looks fine, people don’t even notice how far it sticks out
Gotta take your eye away from that nasty crack! How dare you!!
I got 1” 1/8 casings so a 5/8 plus a 1/2 can easily fit in as baseboard.
Great video! Just subscribed. Feels like more millennials are snatching up homes. Going to try your door alignment tricks too! Ill let you know how it goes. Thanks again. Great content.
Thank you very much! That was always the goal to help people fix up their home.
Never caulk base to flooring unless it’s carpet
That is corner round and not shoe molding
Quarter round and shoe moulding looks like crap.
Nice work brother. I’ve seen so many hack-jobs…❤ I like to 35 my ends
35 is nice🍻
Wtf people caulk that gap under the baseboard? 😂😂😂😂 that’s a good way for it to crack and look like hell as the floor moves up and down when you walk. Flexible caulk I know but damn that’s a first I’ve never seen it looks like a kid would do that finish
In my new apartment, there are gaps that the landlord says add charm - I disagree. Meaning, if I fix them, it must be reversible. How can I fill these up to 5 cm (2 inches) wide gaps in a reversible way?
Miter shears to cut the shoe, unless your shoe is hardwood it works great. Cordless nailer. Carry both in a bag. Much less getting up and down from the floor.
I just do not like the look of shoe molding in this application. The flat floor meeting the baseboard looks normal. That round surface looks cheap. I would rather work the bottom of the baseboard to match the floor. Unless the floor is very wavy. Then gaps or molding.
In my country we have the "quarter round" shoe molding although they might be smaller in diameter and the inner 90 angle has been cut away slightly. I really like the smaller flat "shoe molding" that you create yourself. I think I will go for the caulking as I have no idea where to get such nice shoe moldings ;)
( when you search for "shoe molding" in my native language you most of the time get "base boards" instead. Also we have many fancy (curved) base boards now, so a classic "shoe molding" wouldn't even fit and caulking is your only option.)
F’ing awesome tips thanks!
I refuse quarter round, tacky tacky dross.
We moved to TX and they don't use shoe molding. They just caulk everything and yes, it looks as crappy as you can imagine.
Are base boards needed? If so, is there anything smaller or flatter than what is normally used? Kind of tired of things falling behind furniture that can’t be flush against the wall. Thank you!
You can get a flush baseboard. Look up "reglets" or Fry Reglet for more info. Fair warning is that folks say it is surprisingly expensive to do.
I like using shoe when installing ceramic floor tile. It provides a really nice finished look without having to pull all the skirt boards.
With base mold that tall If you don't like the shoe molding you can always get another piece of trim it looks better than caulking and it draws your eyes up from the floor that's why we do that's why they do that to begin with You have a lot of flat space there and another molding That's short will flex and cover the gaps anyway
This just missed me by two days, I could have done it much better after watching this, oh well. - good stuff.
As someone that likes to pull my baseboards when I paint, do the next owner of your house is a solid and only use nails long enough to attach the shoe molding to the baseboard... Instead of 3-in long nails that go all the way into the studs. 😳
Also... Don't be that guy that nails the shoe molding to the floor
I'll be putting down baseboards next Monday, so I'm hoping you get that scribing video up soon!! (Or maybe I'll just delay my project until the video comes out.)
I should have the video out by next Friday....I'm trying a couple new things with the edit so you never know, sometimes it can be a disaster and I end up making a terrible video that I never release!
Tack your base level and scribe. The real challenge is how you cut to scribe line. Your gona want a table saw, a block plane, and a belt sander.
Герметик скорее всего не долго сохранит приятный вид. Так что либо штапик, либо оставить и забыть!😊 Все равно часть мебелью закроется😊
I have been a carpenter for 45 years you do not bevel the end of your shoe mold you return it to the base or to the floor
Certainly a classy option if done correctly and assuming the profile makes sense🍻
My personal ranking (assuming there's nothing wonky about the profile that interferes) is 1. 22.5 return, 2. 45 return, 3. Bevel to casing thickness, 4. Flat cut.
In the past 3 years, the only person I have seen cut a return on a piece of baseboard or base shoe is me. Flat cut is considered industry standard here. The bevel is considered the somewhat more premium option.
I really despise the flat cut but I see it regularly. I think it looks terrible no matter what, traps dirt and dust, and is the #1 place where you will catch a toe, piece of cloth, chair leg, etc. and rip up a piece of shoe. Beveling looks alright to me, provided the end is prepped and painted/stained to match.
@@Anytus2007 22.5 return, that’s a nice option🍻
How about using door stop instead of shoe moulding?
Yes door stop ripped in two is nice
If you have new construction you will have to go with shoe molding because the floor will be uneven all over.
Great non nonsense videos! Never understand why I see so much quarter round that matches the floor. Looks terrible
How about do it right & scribe it to fit!
neither
If only Empire Today would care enough to watch this.
Can you get that flat stock at home depot/lowes? What are the dimensions?
Great vid! Just finished my floor with 1/4 round, making corners meet is an art…I give…. 😅
Can shoe moulding be used instead of cutting baseboards when installing a laminate floor over tile?
Do you always have to use shoe molding if you have floating floors?
Shoe molding looks horrid and should be banned. It is architecturally unsubstantiated, and only exists to hid poor building skills.
When to use shoe molding: Never.
I think it looks nice
I like it too! It helps visually tie the wall and wall trim to the floors
Frankly, rooms with baseboards and no 1/4 or shoe look unfinished to me 🤷🏻♂️
I get it that quite a few carpenters HATE it
🤷🏻♂️
Unsubstantiated if you are building a stone temple. But it absolutely a valuable part of wood trim design unless you prefer minimalist styles or you are a contractor trying to cut corners.
Remember that those Victorian mansions had flat floors when they were built. 150 years later, shoe molding is can be an elegant solution and enhancement, perfectly in keeping with the original design aesthetic.
Hi, do you have a link to the flat stock by any chance? Thank you!
👍👍👍.Thank you
I prefer shoe simply as a look. I like the extra bump out. Also, returning the ends generally looks better than an angled cut off and looks more like you meant to use it. Great video cheers.
I like your video. I prefer to use Scribe molding. It's thinner and doesn't protrude as much. I use scribe along the wall edges and baseboards of my kitchen and bath cabinets. It finishes them out real nice.
I honestly think 22.5 degrees looks better than 45..... but I’m nobody
Can definitely look good as well
Can you get other colors of caulking?
Your hired
Why not scribe the skirt to the floor then no need for chalk or moulding
First: now you're caulking the base to the wall and touching up the wall paint (if available). Second: old homes w/ plaster, removing base for a flooring job is risky business.
Scribing to me is the best-looking option generally, BUT I think most DIYers will be unhappy with the result if they do it themselves. I've been a professional carpenter for about 3 years now and I'd still rate my skill at scribing (especially on a long run) as *barely competent*. It's a skill that takes some specialized knowledge and/or tools to do well and also enough "feel" with a saw to get an accurate, clean cut. So unless someone has that time/money to practice a good bit, I think they'd get a better result with caulk or shoe.
everyone please use base shoe, never caulk flooring to baseboard. for too many reasons. base shoe is a great way for a novice to practice measuring/cutting.
thanks!
I've always liked the look of shoe molding.
Great tips. Thank you very much for sharing and taking the time to briefly explain everything so well.
Every molding video I see is for painted molding, but all I've ever done is stained. Also, I always die it back in at the ends.
At least around here in the past decade or two, painted trim has way WAY overtaken stained trim in popularity. Very rare to see stained trim on a new install, with the small exception of a stained shoe mould that matches the flooring. Part of it is cost, part is just current aesthetic trends, and I think part is that greater availability and affordability of paint sprayers makes painting trim so much easier.
You are so freaking smart thank you for this video!
Great tips!
New subscriber.
Thanks Ray, hope you find some useful info for your home🍻
All good tips.
Great video! Very informative
Thanks for watching!