How To Fix Gaps Between Baseboard And Floor For Perfect Fit! DIY Step By Step Tutorial For Beginners
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On This episode I'll be showing you how to fix gaps between baseboard and floor for perfect fit! This is an easy DIY step by step tutorial perfect for beginners! Finally a video on TH-cam that fully explains on how to flush your baseboard with your bowed flooring. No more eyesore gaps between your baseboard and vinyl plank (LVP), laminate or engineered wood flooring! Just follow my easy step by step instructions and you'll get your floors looking like a professional install!
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#baseboards #crownmoulding #Trim
For small gaps like this when I install, especially with MDF I push it down to the floor, it’s flexible. Even with wood sometimes you can lay a 1x or 2x from the floor to the top of base at 90 degrees, put your knee on it to push it down and nail it. With a vinyl or floating floor a little gap is good for floor movement. The thing is also no one wants to pay you to spend 15 minutes on 4’ of base, unless it’s a multi piece design.
Exactly.
Bingo
That's what I was wondering. Just push down on the baseboard and nail it.
I definitely wouldn't have this guy work for me. Seems like a beginner .
yep
As a licensed (21+ year) Remodeling Contractor, we (Contractor and Homeowner together as a team) always have a choice between ascetics (that is paramount! - at least in my opinion) and level/plumb/square/etc. Multiple times in my career have I found instances where a SINGLE room has a level difference of 3/4" or more. One time was a bit over 1 1/4" in a kitchen alone. Level is much different than Flat. Once you start cutting 1/2" or more off of baseboard, trim, etc. it starts looking dramatically different (the more detail on the trim makes it even worse) and it looks like someone made a mistake. It has a major tendency to compound the change in appearance as it goes around a room if the level is off in the slab/flooring. If you only go for LEVEL, you can (and probably will) make the overall project look like it was done it was done by amateurs. That is where I communicate with the Owner to see what their wishes are for the final end result. It should be the Owners decision on how far to take this process (level vs. flat) and what they are willing to live with...it is their home.
Where exactly did you get this remodeling “license”?
Trying to troll me? CSLB (California State licensing Board) as a General Contractor since 2000 and now also a licensed Residential Contractor in Florida through FDPR (Florida Department of Business and Professional Regulation). I said “remodeling” because that is my specialty and because there is almost no new construction in California because of lack of land available to build on. One of the many reasons why I move to Florida.
Moved to Florida. Stupid autocorrect!
Was looking for a comment about him making it level. I thought why even try to make it level. If your floor isn't level, why should the baseboard be, at the cost of removing actual height.
How did you butcher the word ‘aesthetics’ so ridiculously
I've been a carpenter for 43 years and this is quite possibly the most insane video I've ever seen, for too many reasons to list, but I'll mention a few. First, instead of jacking the base up with shims and playing stupid games with a compass, you could just mark it while it's on the wall by sliding an object over the floor with your pencil on top of it, marking the base along the way. So if your gap is the thickness of a quarter, then take a quarter and slide it across as you mark the base. THEN, remove the base and scribe it. But, having said that, then you've created a "chase your tail" situation where intersecting baseboards may be too tall or short as you move on. Base isn't meant to be scribed. It never was. This is why they make base shoe. It is especially designed to solve this problem. And if you can't live with shoe for some reason, then caulk is your next alternative. And I'll leave you with one other pro tip too: Anyone using a laser to cut anything for finish work has no clue what they're doing. There isn't a laser on this planet that delivers a thin enough line to accurately make a precision cut.
Just giving options for the everyday DIYer 👍🏽😊
I run into this problem every day as a professional painter. Many of your critics say caulking the gap is the best solution. If so, who's job is it to caulk the gap? Is it the framer's, finish carpenter's, floor installers? The aforementioned trades are long gone more often than not leaving the homeowner and painter shaking their heads as they look at the gaps. Caulking the gap is not a good idea because floors move, houses shift, and the temperature of the house will change with the seasons. After time, the caulking will delaminate, change color, and dust will stick like a magnet. This video is very educating for homeowners, all trades, project managers, inspectors, architects and the like. Thanks for posting it.
We could all solve this problem if we professionals stand together and insist that shoe be installed, and that's exactly what its for. Flooring manufacturer standards say no less than ¼ inch gap, larger for hard wood, and larger for larger rooms, that ⅜ thick base would never cover, so they force us, the ones they hold accountable, to cheat and hold our breath that the call back don't come. Pass the buck, screw the guy behind you, after all, we are all uneducated criminals!
Caulk would be easiest and fastest !
@@rudytrujillo2238 ¼ round/baseshoe would be the correct way, but for whatever reason, clients are told the truth as to why it is so important and its purpose. Not to mention, it's an added piece of trim, more profile. If they would stop cutting corners and tell clients the truth and insist on it being done right, things will never change. Customers don't know a damn thing, expect what they "think" they know. As a professional, I've never had a client say, let's do my flooring wrong, so I can save on some shoe that I as a customer think looks bad. Show them what caulk looks like in short order. Problem solved!
Clients, are not told the truth.
@@VoteBLUE2024toSAVEDEMOCRACY I agree that would be the correct way but if the gaps isn’t that big like in this video caulk wouldn’t look bad at all if done right. All I said was easiest and fastest
Much better and great attention to detail. As a new home owner, I'm starting to notice every little imperfection in the home I live in now. lol. Not good for my OCD. Again, great video / tutorials you're providing for a DIYER.
First of I would like to say congratulations on the new home! 🙏🏽. Thank you for the love and support and stay tuned for more helpful videos 2-3 times a week! 👍🏽😊
If the gap is so noticeable that you have to scribe such that the adjoining baseboards suffer significant height difference the you can cut all your adjoining baseboards to the lowe height. Easy to do with wide flat stock and not too noticeable, especially if you don’t have to re-radius the bottom edge with true square edge flat stock. However if the gap in question is truly that bad it should have been seen before you place your flooring. I’ll typically use Ardex Finish and blend the subfloor a bit more parallel. I do often have to shim under the floating floors I lay down as it’s easy to miss on a big install. I use the gap to get a tool in and lift the plank and bend a piece of plastic to shim under. As the offence is near the wall it typically doesn’t affect the joint between planks as long as it’s not too much of a shim thickness - which will void the floor warranty too. Filling with caulking can be done very neatly but suffers eventually from poor ascetics with floating floor movement. So basically I’ve done all methods and they all hav the disadvantages save for fastidious prepping beforehand. On long runs with 3 1/4” base it’s easy to flex down on the gap and shoot a few brads. New homes with engineered floor joists are typically easy peasy flat and level. Older home, homes with long joists and no blocking, not so much. One house I went through $1000 in filler and multiple sheets of bulk luan ply filler in the joint valleys. Customers aren’t willing to pay for that kind of prep if it’s client based work. For the diy crowd, it’s just your time mostly. The newer, stiff SPC LVP, I find, is much more fussy to lay flat with even baseboard gaps of subfloors that have settled.
You're perfectionist and that greatly appreciated as a consumer. It would be very time-consuming to this, but if the person is willing to pay for that extra time, this seems like the way to go!
I appreciate your demonstration on your method of contouring your baseboard, my only question I have is how would that transfer throughout the entirety of the installation of the base boards. Would it be that my pitch on one end is slanted or higher than my adjacent end of the boards?
This method works in many carpentry scenarios. I HIGHLY suggest against it for baseboard that connects to more baseboard. Especially wrapping corners. A scenario I have used this in a bunch is stair treads and risers. No connecting pieces and conforming to bows and bends.
That looks great but how do you match splices and corners when you don't relieve the other pieces?
Sir, you have the patience of Job. Amazing work!!
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
also much easier, half round!! looks great as well!
Your attention to detail is refreshing. Most contractors today just slap in some filler and go. No one really wants to do things the right way. As long as it looks good for a few weeks....
Exactly! I don't claim to be a pro at trim, but i have been doing it long enough to know that this option is ridiculas. Push it down! I can do it with pine trim as well, but MDF is much easier. Never had an issue. I have done all type base and crown and one thing i do know if you trim one side (like video suggest) you will have other issues connecting adjoing base with different height levels.
awesome!!! I have to do this for a few rooms in our very old home. The previous owners put up trim molding with huge gaps, I was at a loss how to fix this.
i actually learned something. Nice. Thanks.
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Great advice, just used this scribing method on a 10’ wall with an upwards bow up to 3/4” tall in the middle. With an upwards bow you just put the shims on the far ends but it worked out basically the same, perfect fit.
No luck with using a level though, the corners aren’t level :)
When pulling out the nails i would use a channel lock pliers and pull out from the back less chance of destroying the face of the molding
Thank you for the advice! 🙏🏽😊
Very exquisite work but the problem with substracting material is that you will have to work on all sides of the room to match the one that had to be fixed. I am too lazy and would prefer a fix along the lines of ADDING material.
I was wondering if this is possible...
I just had this issue with my daughters house she was selling and caulk worked just fine!
Nice clean job and it looks good. i've done the same thing except i stacked carpenters pencils since i didn't have a scribe. If the gap is under 1/8" i'll caulk it. The trick to me is working with a taller baseboard so the height of the baseboard is less noticeable when making cuts. I've seen floors so out of wack that they had no choice but to use vinyl flooring so it can contour the bend, lol
You do some nice careful work! I enjoy your videos.
Thank you so much for your love and support! Means a lot! 🙏🏽😊
Q: Why don't you simply use caulking to fill the gap? Because the baseboard molding needs to be at the same height as the adjoining boards.
I totally agree. In UK we call the baseboard the skirting board.
Anyway, you are supposed to leave about a 3mm gap between the skirting board and finished flooring to allow the floor to expand and contract with room temperature.
I then use a flexible caulk to close the 3mm gap.
@@chrisperrins8082 *baseboard
What about as a renter in an apartment? We are currently at war with some roaches and they hide in those cracks. Would using caulk be an acceptable solution in this situation? Landlord isn’t gonna take the time to fix them anyway
@@gjhslibraryrocks try advion roach bait killer. Works very well.
@@gjhslibraryrocks call pest control - bill to landlord
Instead of a compass, put the pencil tip in the hole of a washer and roll it across the floor. And no need to make it level, your eye will never notice 1/4 of an inch slope.
Lovely job but surely when laminate floor swells it want have room to if skirting board is tight to it will buckle floor ??
Fantastic channel. Thanks brother.
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
That looks awesome. Great tips!
Thank you brother!
If your from the UK then your understand the expression!! Painters job!!!
Just mark the floor at the 90 degree mark using a set square, tape along that line and fill the gap with CT1 make sure to use a 90 degree silicone shaping tool. CT1 is paintable..And Bam!, Robert's your fathers brother.
Genius!
Well done!
I had exactly this problem when placing new skirtings in my old rickety house.
However I chose not to go this way because it works fine when doing it on just one wall but the adjoining wall(s) should have to start off lower by the amount taken off the ends in this case, so that the corners lighn up. Then you end up chasing your tail all around the room (and my room has 28 corner joints in it).
I elected to use shoe molding to cover the gaps.
Thank you exactly! 1 piece wall to wall is easy! Personally I don't think he's a professional.
@@randallhart7264 I don't think you should be commenting on topics that are beyond your level of comprehension, you're welcome!
This video is a brief tutorial to show the proper method of installing baseboard, it is standard in high-end finish carpentry. No one needs to chase any tails, you simply need to go about any task in a professional manner, and in this case it starts with finding the low point in floor adjacent to the walls being covered with baseboard, compare that with the highest point, the difference is the amount that will be scribed onto the bottom of the basebord when all pieces are level from the high point. Your standard for your rickety house is not what anyone else would be interested in knowing.
@@larrydaniels8976
Here's the thing. I'm not a professional and I assume that this clip is aimed at DIY people as I would hope that professionals don't need to be watching this.
@@larrydaniels8976 I never have commented on subjects I know nothing about! But I damn sure know about this subject! Now you have a wonderful day
Quarter round and caulking
That works too 👍🏽 only thing is that you will have to use that do to match the whole room and could get pricey 🙏🏽
Exactly, a lot quicker and gives a finished look!
@@FixThisHouse ¾ " quarter round is about $7 for an 8 ft piece....$30 will do an entire room... remember, if this is your home, don't be tight. I would never take the extra time to do what you are doing. Doesn't make good economical sense. You can lay quarter round in a room in about 20 minutes..
@@abdal-haqq1688 It is somewhat subjective, but the shorter the baseboard the worse quarter round looks. My house has 3/4" quarter round installed on 3/-1/4" baseboard and I hate it.
@@georgebush6002 that's a really specialized size of baseboard. Sounds like window and door casing.
What happens when you then have a corner whether be an inside or an outside cut corner that meets up to that low end you cut on the left side? The trim running down the adjacent wall that meets that at the corner it’s gonna now be a quarter inch taller and now you’re gonna have an issue there.
I was just about to day that, that method only works if you don't have another baseboard meeting up to it
I was going to say the same thing! This won’t work if you have any corners. Just push the baseboard down, unless you are using oak or something it’s flexible enough.
It was a lot of effort that’s pretty much pointless because it’ll work in like 2% of cases
NICE!!! THANK YOU!!!
You are very welcome my friend! 🙏🏽😊
IMO, the best fix for this is installing either shoe molding or 1/4 round. Also in IMO, shoe or 1/4 round look much better that just base alone.
‘Also in IMO’ 😂
I always tape up the floor when painting skirtings (baseboards). I put the tape 1mm back away from the skirting and gap fill it. Then after painting and peeling the tape, it creates a nice straight line from skirting to the floor.
Thank you for sharing your technique 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
Thank you!
Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊
In my opinion as a retired carpenter, I do not believe this is a way to fix baseboard to a wavy floor. As others have noted, now that you "shortened" both ends, adjoining boards will no longer line up and therefore all the baseboards in that room will have to be modified. Also, others have noted, if the gap is small, simply push down on the BB before nailing. If the gap is 1/4" as you state, then you have a serious issue that needs to be addressed with the floor --or-- use quarter round as someone else has noted. And again as another person noted -- never pull the nails out from the surface as damage may occur. Pull it from the back side. Respect your attention to detail. I'm just an old fart making some constructive criticism. Keep up the good videos.
Thanks my friend
You are most welcome! Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊
In a situation like this, after a test fit, I mark the low point of the floor board (while baseboard is not installed yet). With the floor board a quarter inch gap from the wall, I raise the low point of the floor by inserting plastic strips wedge to raise the floor low point. Its however a lot easier when the floor board is running parallel to the wall as I can pry the floor board higher to insert longer cut out plastic strips to reach the second board. This solution is also in response to PogChamp query. Thanks for the video its nice to learn more option.
Thank you so much for sharing your technique and advice! I’m so glad you understood my thinking on this that this is just another option, including your technique, other than caulk and quarter round or shoe 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
@@FixThisHouse qtr round always gives a much richer finish, i just say'n
Easier to just install shoe molding. That’s what it’s for. Then you don’t have to worry about mating up with adjoining base mold and having to trim every piece in the room. If you don’t like shoe molding, then purchase the wider base mold for the problem area walls and use this method.
First time learning of shoe molding other than qtr round. I hate that stuff. Many more options I'm liking now.
I bought vinyl baseboard for bathroom and have no desire for shoe molding. I have a gap between LVP floor and bottom of molding in couple places after Pro install of flooring and baseboard. No way would it work to shorten baseboard or insert shim. Bathroom has multiple corners everywhere. Simple caulk best solution.
they crappy way to do it
I agree. This is fine for a couple of spots but if your entire house or apartment doesn’t have leveled floors I can’t imagine doing this for every baseboard. You could just going to take very long time. Cover with trim or caulking is much easier.
@@acz88 Caulking there would look worse than a gap there.
The real trick is when you have to cut a 45 to continue the baseboard on an adjacent wall. Like for a square room, the error for one wall will continue to all 4 walls. Sometimes caulking or a round-over trim piece works better.
Nicely done
Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
So you're going to shorten then next board , and the one after that ?
All depends. This technique is best if the bow is on the middle area of baseboard and tapers to the edges. This technique is an “options” not suitable for everyone and just for these situations. If you do take off some off the edges then you will have to relieve other adjoining pieces. 👍🏽😊
I have done this technique when I built my house 15 years ago. However, I never understood the point of leveling.. Let's say you have a wall that is 20' long and for whatever reason one end is 1/2" lower then the other. If you make your baseboard level, you will be able to tell that the baseboard is 5" on one end and 5 1/2" on the other. If you just lay the board to follow the floor, nobody will be able to tell that one corner of the room is lower than the other. Even more visible on crown moldings.
Dude.... Not gonna bullshit here but this single video could save billions of us DIY's. I honestly feel a lil stupid because I level everything. But for whatever reason I never felt about taking out the time in my work to level trim
Good method. Although I prefer to use shoe molding. I just like how shoe molding adds more beauty to the baseboard in addition to hiding those gaps. Plus shoe molding installation takes less time than sanding the baseboard.
what's good about it if he goes 10 feet down the length the will be no more trim on one side .
Good to know
I usually add some heavy duty glue on the back and apply pressure and nail it. Problem fix. If you cut one board you have to cut all to have the same height especially in a square room otherwise it will look obvious. Great video thou thanks for sharing.
Awesome job!
Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
Great video thank you - I'm trying to figure out this reversed, how to do this for when the floor is raised in the middle and drops on the sides. Any tips for that?
So glad I read the comments about using this method. For sure avoid if baseboard has adjoining pieces which is probably going to be most of the time. Otherwise its going to look like 💩💩💩 with your baseboards in mismatch height. Thank you comment section.
SUPER !
Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
I am a first-time homebuyer and trying to DIY some stuff around my house to save money. I want to fix the gaps between my floor and baseboards - but the comments seem mixed. Is this a good and long term solution being shown? Any feedback or guidance is much appreciated
My problem is the floor has a bad slope and the stained wood door casings are not plumb or level. I'm not sure how to even start this project so the baseboards come out looking halfway decent. Your example is for an outside corner. How do you scribe the angles when you have a piece of baseboard that needs to fit between two door casings that are not plumb or level?
Please send me a picture of your issue and maybe I can make a video 🙏🏽. Here is my email: fixthishouse1@yahoo.com
What happens if you are connecting another piece molding say on another wall or corner? It will be off.
Nice work.
Thank You 🙏🏽!
The secret to avoiding having to go back and cut the rest of the baseboards to match the new lower height of a baseboard you had to scribe ond remove material from an end of the baseboard is to purchase a matching baseboard that is taller than the original. Then you can simply scribe it and adjust your cut to accommodate for the height of the original baseboard.
If the home continues to expand and contract throughout the year does a slight gap need to be left? I have gaps around my home and not sure what to do.
When I pull baseboard moldings or door trim/casing off, I usually use my angle grinder with a thin metal cutoff wheel to cut nails off the back instead of hitting them back out to avoid covering up all the old nail holes and new ones when reinstalling trim.
could you apply caulking to the bottom to fill in the gap as well?
How do you butt up the miter joint then? now every piece of baseboard is going to be different height.
That’s fine if the both ends die against casings. Would you take that 1/4” off around a miter or scribe joint and down an adjacent wall? When would you stop? I’d bow most of the gap out and live with the rest. Someone suggested sanitary shoe molding under a rabbeted base. That would give you a fudge factor that seals the floor to wall junction loosing the gap up in the rabbet and no scribing. Always tear the nails out the back!
Cool, God Bless!
Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Those clamps that come with the sander are to convert it into a bench sander.Notice the small holes in the top of the sander-turn it upside down,insert clamps into holes and then clamp to a flat surface,hey presto!
Protip: remove trim nails from the back using pliers, pulling the head through the wood. This helps to prevent tearout around the nail hole that can occur when pulling the nails out from the face of the trim.
I use a hammer claw and bend to the side lol
Outstanding
This is NOT how you should fix that gap. Remove the baseboard. Start at one end reattaching it and hold it down tightly to the floor as you go across it. This guy is better at videos than finishing trim.
I agree to much time consumption..time is money
I think the baseboards would look best running parallel with the floor, and not necessarily level. Especially on a concrete floor that has settled unevenly because it could be 1 1/2 lower on one side, then the baseboard would be way too short, it would look awful. You are on the right track though, that is a great trick to make your cuts tight, and I use that in all kinds of places. If you are going to cut the bottom of the baseboards you would need to make sure that they will look even with the floor along the whole room, so leveling it is one method that could achieve that, if the floor is level enough... if it's not, you would need to make sure that the baseboard is following the average slope of the floor along that wall, so the baseboard doesn't get progressively smaller or larger from one end of the room to the other. Then use your method to cut off the bottom to conform to the floor.
Amazing!
Professional
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Great tip!
Thank you 🙏🏽
Good idea for extremely uneven floors, if all other options fail
If I try to cover that 1/4” gap by shaving the ends of the trim, what happens when you connect the next piece?? It’s going to be a 1/4” higher so I have to trim that one too. Not to mention if there is a low spot on that run, then you get to redo the first piece of trim you shaved. This is a terrible idea!
Will it line up to the opposing walls with other baseboard after the repair
the item list is missing the brad nailer link. I'm looking to buy one and there are so many options. can you post the brad nailer link you used at the end
Can I just fill in the crack with stretched caulking and call it a day ?
Thanks for sharing. I just subscribed👍
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
If you've got a floating floor, that small gap is good as it allows the floor to expand and contract. If you've got a floating floor, leave it. 👍🏻
Thanks for the feedback 👍🏽
Your advice will likely leave every baseboard at an obviously different height when intersecting a corner. In addition, any previous caulk at the baseboard top will remain an unsightly reminder of the bad idea once its height is reduced. With texture on the wall, it will be impossible to cleanly rectify. The only real fix is a secondary trim (qtr round typically) mounted to the floor. Easier too.
I like your idea of the quarter round trim way more than this way. My first thought of this video is if you change your flooring again your baseboards are a weird shape. Not to mention the difficulty.
Does not make sense for me what about if you have another baseboard other end 4" other side and did not match the one you cut. The best way to cover the gap put another shoe molding 1/2 round that's the best way to cover
Yea, now what happens when you connect to other baseboard on adjoining wall that is 3/8" higher. Will not line up or match. Scribing that you showed may not work - although a good thing to know for many projects!
Good job
How do you fix a gap between trim and the flooring? Quarter round
was great
Any suggestions on how to fix small clumps of hard glue on carpet seams?
I have a solid wood baseboards 6" x 3/4" running in length anywhere from 12 to 20 feet. Removing them to fix those small gaps is no option. So my question is, how do you deal with those gaps in a situation like mine? I fixed it with caulking which is not ideal. Do you have a better idea/solution?
1:09 or just do what a lot of ppl do: Break out the Shoe or Quarter Round😉🤦🏼
Wish was kidding, but it’s what ppl do, b/c scribing everything takes time, and unless have a trim carpenter doing this work, a GC remodeling your house WILL NOT BE SCRIBING ANYTHING, or COPING, as an FYI. If they do, will be extensively extra costs, and YOU MUST NEGOTIATE AND TALK ABOUT THIS AT THE START, b/c a change order; won’t cut it for most GCs.
Thx for vid and good job. Appreciate and see ya on next✌🏻
Thank you so much for your feedback and advice 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Aepek, all hard surfaces installed in Ohio are to be sold with quarter round, for this reason we see here!! What he's doing would be very expensive per foot, and alot of these new material this can't even be done.
Good job young man!
To make it level do you shim the baseboard higher than the deepest gap?
What if you put some silicon or latex like for bathtub?
Your likely to run into problems with the next piece lining up when turning a corner. I would push down on the baseboard really hard before nailing it in and you would be suprised how of a gap you can close. If its a 1/8 inch just caulk it in, scribling moulding is alot of work for sure, just run quarter round.
Thank you for the feedback 👍🏽
Flexible trim quarter round will do the job!
What about when a baseboard you scribed meets another baseboard like at an outside corner. The baseboards would be different heights.
I use the next size-up baseboard..... I cut the excess off with a circular saw. That way the baseboard is the size of the one that you bought, after you trim it!
Thank you for sharing! 🙏🏽
@@FixThisHouse 👌
Love belt Sanders got to be careful though it's so easy to take to much off I use a stop.
Great job. Is there a reason why you didn't choose to just install a quarter round which is flexible and save yourself a lot of work? Thanks for the video, I learned something new and useful today!
For time and money in my company we install shoe molding or quarter around, except if the client does not want or around the house there is only baseboard.
all that work for something people forget about. Great Idea but will create more work as you will find this problem through the whole house and adjoining bases as popchamp said
In finish trim work you do'n't hammer or push the brad nail back thru the direction that it was installed from but pull it completely thru, otherwise you will blow out the top of the hole
Does this not mean if you have other skirtings on the adjacent walls that don’t have slopes, then where they meet at corners the height will be a different size?