you have to drill out the rivets ,that releases a metal plate that hold the whole bearing in. then you use a puller on the bearing to pull it off the rotor shaft, it just like a morris minor dyno. you can get replacement long bolts easily. they are normally 1/4 bsf so you need to drill them tapping size to get the broken thread out.
Thankfully, dynamos are cheap and plentiful, and you can find them advertised in any of the vintage tractor magazines, or you can pop in to your local tractor dealership (any brand will do) and order up a Vapormatic replacement. We fitted the dynamo off a Morris Minor on my David Brown 780. Fordson Dexta uses the same dynamo (I believe) just be aware that they come in left and right handed versions depending on application, but what ever you do, dynamos are easy to get. Now, while you're at it, you might want to replace the regulator as well, a Lucas RB108 is universally used on these older tractors, but there were earlier variants of them too, however, the RB108 will replace them too! If you're more bothered about keeping your battery in good condition, rather than being technically correct, you could replace that dynamo with an alternator, Lucas ACR15 is generally favoured for the job on vintage tractors. An alternator does away with the need for an external regulator, and generally gives a better charge - it just isn't original, that's all, but hey ho, it worked a treat on our David Brown 990 Implematic. eBay is a good place to look for dynamos, regulators and alternators.
For removing those broken bolts (if you have a wire feed welder) - find a nut that will fit over the remaining nub and fill the center with weld - this will put some heat into the remaining bolt and when it all cools you can get a wrench or socket on the nut you've welded on the broken bolt. Once your done with removal - cut the threaded part off a bolt, weld it onto your broken ones and clean it up in the lathe... I'm pretty sure I've seen all the right tools in your shed to get this done.
Was I the only one yelling at the screen to get the one out of the car, just to have a look at what you have. Spend more time getting it apart, soak in WD40 for hours or a day or two to get the bolts out and the pulley end plate. Buying a refurb may be last resort but if you want to keep it original as much as possible at least give it a good go. 🚜🚜🚜 Anyway, all the best to you and Mrs mancave, the Fergie has a special purpose so do what is necessary to get her going. 👍
Threaded bar and nuts is the way to go..How about installing a small pot belly stove for quiet heating or a Chinese diesel heater though these are quite loud but would heat the Mancave in minutes for peanuts on red diesel or kerosene if the latter you’d also need either a 12 battery on permanent trickle charge or a 240 to12v 20amp supply..Installed both in my garage and it’s a game changer 👍
From memory you have to "excite" a new dynamo to either pos earth or neg earth. if is just bolts holding you back, drill them from outside that way if the drill gets a bite it will un screw, cut half inch off and weld a new bit of bolt on then turn it down on the grind wheel. no one will see it.. I have a tin of "Kroil oil" and I would put it on over night to give you every chance of getting old parts off without breaking them. I came to it late in life and it is amazing stuff.
Hi Adam, I think others have mentioned that there is a voltage regulator with any Lucas dynamo. I had a 6 volt Petrol/ TVO tractor donkeys years ago and the regulator was mounted on the back of the dash panel behind the battery. They have contacts a bit like points which become corroded easily and may be why you were experiencing the voltage being all over the place. Your dynamo appears to have a drive for an hour meter or rev counter. I have seen one on a later 35hp Fergie and had a thick brass speedo drive running to a clock on the dash panel. Being 12v yours would easily convert to an alternator, giving greater current at lower RPM. An alternator from a Mini/ Metro or even an MGB or midget will fit. After about 1970 they had an in built regulator. You need the adapter plate from any alternator mounted BMC A or B series engine and Rover kept fitting these engines into the later 80's and I suspect later. I had a look and Lucas bearing and brush rebuild kits are still available fr a dynamo. I have enjoyed this video and its great to see someone taking one apart. Years ago people would replace then and they often only needed a bearing on the pulley end or a set of brushes.
Give the other dynamo a good soaking in penetrating oil overnight and maybe try the heat and quench method to free off the studs. Hopefully that'll get it to come apart with less damage than the first one. I'm sure you can make a working dynamo out of the 2 you have. The Fergie could do with a good jet washing so you can see what needs your attention next. She doesn't look very well but fires up a treat. Will she stay grey or go fully pink for the tractor run?
Drill out the studs then get some threaded rod with nuts and washers. Drill out both ends to take the studding and push it right through both end caps, fit nuts and jobs done.
Adam, you can't measure the charge voltage from a Dynamo/regulator sytem on a digital meter! The digital meter samples the voltage several times a second, while the regulator is turning the voltage to the dynamos field winding on and off several time a second! this means the voltage applied to the battery by the dynamo is DC, but chopped on and off to regulate the amount of charge to the battery! you need an analogue meter, ie with a movement and a needle, such as an AVO, which damps out the fluctuations in voltage. There is also a cutout in the regulator, which disconnects the charging system at tickover, so the battery doesn't discharge via the dynamo at tickover when the dynamo output is low. So you need to put some revs on when measuring the battery voltage with your analogue meter! Alternator systems are different, in that AC comes out of the alternator, and is rectified to DC of a suitable voltage to provide the appropriate current for the state of charge, as a result it's smoother DC.
You should be able to buy those long bolts from a good auto electrical shop. Don’t forget to check the voltage regulator which will be on the tractor somewhere, it can be faulty or have failed also
I like these realistic videos. Good to see you do the "run with what we've got" method, but sometimes new is better. Once you decider to go new, it would be good to do an anything goes teardown to learn how to do it next time :-))))
Normally, the shaft is a light push fit in the bearing. The bearing pushes towards the armature when the shaft is out. Use an Alternator instead, it is easier and better at charging the battery. The Dynamo needs a commutator skim, scrape out the slots ten thou deep, and new brushes. You need a heater in the shed too.
Kroil or 50/50 atf and acetone to free up fixings. Mannol do a rust dissolver as well. Do a google on disassembly before getting the hammer out so readily ....... looks like a bearing retainer riveted in place on plate, then a bearing puller / slide hammer to get bearing out of retainer. Look up polarizing - not sure if that applies to posi earth.
A basic multi-meter is usually affected by the high voltage produced by the coil and distributed by the plug leads, hence the erratic voltage readings. A better thing is a proper analogue ammeter
If you succeed in getting end off could you drill the broken bits out and either make new bolts on you lathe or buy a length of threaded rod an d put a nut on either end?
Have a look around and see if there's any one man band alternator rebuild lads around and would he let you watch it repaired.... Second option is look at TH-cam for rebuild of same just so you can figure out how to tek it t bits 🤗👍🇮🇪
Be better off putting a morris 1000 alternator on if it don't bother you about keeping it original Adam but agricultural spec was closed in more then normal had less air vents due to dust etc but good luck mate
If it was mine I'd put a lucas alternator on it , by the time you have that dynamo and regulator changed it will cost more. If you want to keep it original you'll need a new regulator and dynamo plus a rewire.
That was less Man Cave and More Cave Man! You need to be a little less brutal! Use more heat on things and get yourself a hydraulic press. Good content though! 👍🏼
Well, if it wasn't knackered it is now
Loving the return of the credits 👍🏻 Happy New Year to you, Mrs MC & all watchers.
you have to drill out the rivets ,that releases a metal plate that hold the whole bearing in. then you use a puller on the bearing to pull it off the rotor shaft, it just like a morris minor dyno. you can get replacement long bolts easily. they are normally 1/4 bsf so you need to drill them tapping size to get the broken thread out.
Thankfully, dynamos are cheap and plentiful, and you can find them advertised in any of the vintage tractor magazines, or you can pop in to your local tractor dealership (any brand will do) and order up a Vapormatic replacement. We fitted the dynamo off a Morris Minor on my David Brown 780. Fordson Dexta uses the same dynamo (I believe) just be aware that they come in left and right handed versions depending on application, but what ever you do, dynamos are easy to get. Now, while you're at it, you might want to replace the regulator as well, a Lucas RB108 is universally used on these older tractors, but there were earlier variants of them too, however, the RB108 will replace them too!
If you're more bothered about keeping your battery in good condition, rather than being technically correct, you could replace that dynamo with an alternator, Lucas ACR15 is generally favoured for the job on vintage tractors. An alternator does away with the need for an external regulator, and generally gives a better charge - it just isn't original, that's all, but hey ho, it worked a treat on our David Brown 990 Implematic.
eBay is a good place to look for dynamos, regulators and alternators.
I've a red 990 great tractor 🚜.
For removing those broken bolts (if you have a wire feed welder) - find a nut that will fit over the remaining nub and fill the center with weld - this will put some heat into the remaining bolt and when it all cools you can get a wrench or socket on the nut you've welded on the broken bolt. Once your done with removal - cut the threaded part off a bolt, weld it onto your broken ones and clean it up in the lathe... I'm pretty sure I've seen all the right tools in your shed to get this done.
Was I the only one yelling at the screen to get the one out of the car, just to have a look at what you have. Spend more time getting it apart, soak in WD40 for hours or a day or two to get the bolts out and the pulley end plate. Buying a refurb may be last resort but if you want to keep it original as much as possible at least give it a good go. 🚜🚜🚜
Anyway, all the best to you and Mrs mancave, the Fergie has a special purpose so do what is necessary to get her going. 👍
Right on Adam. Thanks for bringing back roll the credit
Threaded bar and nuts is the way to go..How about installing a small pot belly stove for quiet heating or a Chinese diesel heater though these are quite loud but would heat the Mancave in minutes for peanuts on red diesel or kerosene if the latter you’d also need either a 12 battery on permanent trickle charge or a 240 to12v 20amp supply..Installed both in my garage and it’s a game changer 👍
Really enjoyed this one mr Fenn 👍🏻. Love seeing all the tinkering 😂. It's the same in Cromer misty and damp
From memory you have to "excite" a new dynamo to either pos earth or neg earth. if is just bolts holding you back, drill them from outside that way if the drill gets a bite it will un screw, cut half inch off and weld a new bit of bolt on then turn it down on the grind wheel. no one will see it.. I have a tin of "Kroil oil" and I would put it on over night to give you every chance of getting old parts off without breaking them. I came to it late in life and it is amazing stuff.
What about drilling the studs out , tapping the holes , using some threaded bar, and putting nuts on the end where the contacts are?
Hi Adam. Drill out the twisted off ends and use a piece of all thread and make your new bolts with a nut on each end. Tell Rachel I said HI.
Hi Adam, I think others have mentioned that there is a voltage regulator with any Lucas dynamo. I had a 6 volt Petrol/ TVO tractor donkeys years ago and the regulator was mounted on the back of the dash panel behind the battery. They have contacts a bit like points which become corroded easily and may be why you were experiencing the voltage being all over the place. Your dynamo appears to have a drive for an hour meter or rev counter. I have seen one on a later 35hp Fergie and had a thick brass speedo drive running to a clock on the dash panel. Being 12v yours would easily convert to an alternator, giving greater current at lower RPM. An alternator from a Mini/ Metro or even an MGB or midget will fit. After about 1970 they had an in built regulator. You need the adapter plate from any alternator mounted BMC A or B series engine and Rover kept fitting these engines into the later 80's and I suspect later. I had a look and Lucas bearing and brush rebuild kits are still available fr a dynamo. I have enjoyed this video and its great to see someone taking one apart. Years ago people would replace then and they often only needed a bearing on the pulley end or a set of brushes.
It’s worth a try to get a 1/4” nut and spot weld it to what’s left of the old bolt, let the heat work and it will wind out hopefully?
Try any scrap yard and find a BMC dynamo the bolts are invariably the same , take measurements to make sure , I have done this before.
Alternators are as cheap as chips. You might need a pilot light and new switch though.
It's knackered now for sure.
yep
Hi Adam, I sure you will find a way I’m with you I thought it would just knock out, All the very best take care of yourself.🛠️🛠️⭐️👍👌🎅🤶🎄🎄
Give the other dynamo a good soaking in penetrating oil overnight and maybe try the heat and quench method to free off the studs. Hopefully that'll get it to come apart with less damage than the first one. I'm sure you can make a working dynamo out of the 2 you have.
The Fergie could do with a good jet washing so you can see what needs your attention next. She doesn't look very well but fires up a treat. Will she stay grey or go fully pink for the tractor run?
those long bolts you might check in an alternator shop and see if they have those long bolts
If its a dynamo - does it not have a voltage regulator ? Just thinking if the voltage was all over the place.
Hi Adam the torch just destroyed the armature Happy New Year to mr mrs man cave
Have you been playing with the new kitten re the scratches on hands? Happy new year to you and the missus
Watching you take that dynamo apart was painful, stick to the auctions maybe 😢
yes instead of hitting with a hammer a hy press is the answer a hammer is the last resort
Two choices. 1: use a bigger hammer. or 2: get a new dynamo.
Drill out the studs then get some threaded rod with nuts and washers. Drill out both ends to take the studding and push it right through both end caps, fit nuts and jobs done.
Adam check the voltage regulator points may need a clean the same way as you would do a normal set of points chap all the best aylesbury Bazza 👍
Adam, you can't measure the charge voltage from a Dynamo/regulator sytem on a digital meter! The digital meter samples the voltage several times a second, while the regulator is turning the voltage to the dynamos field winding on and off several time a second! this means the voltage applied to the battery by the dynamo is DC, but chopped on and off to regulate the amount of charge to the battery! you need an analogue meter, ie with a movement and a needle, such as an AVO, which damps out the fluctuations in voltage. There is also a cutout in the regulator, which disconnects the charging system at tickover, so the battery doesn't discharge via the dynamo at tickover when the dynamo output is low. So you need to put some revs on when measuring the battery voltage with your analogue meter! Alternator systems are different, in that AC comes out of the alternator, and is rectified to DC of a suitable voltage to provide the appropriate current for the state of charge, as a result it's smoother DC.
You should be able to buy those long bolts from a good auto electrical shop. Don’t forget to check the voltage regulator which will be on the tractor somewhere, it can be faulty or have failed also
Adam I think from memory there is a spacer ( pulley end) on the shaft If you remove it will make it easier to remove the armature from the bearing
I like these realistic videos. Good to see you do the "run with what we've got" method, but sometimes new is better. Once you decider to go new, it would be good to do an anything goes teardown to learn how to do it next time :-))))
Normally, the shaft is a light push fit in the bearing. The bearing pushes towards the armature when the shaft is out. Use an Alternator instead, it is easier and better at charging the battery. The Dynamo needs a commutator skim, scrape out the slots ten thou deep, and new brushes. You need a heater in the shed too.
Hi Adam could you drill the old bolts out then use a threaded bar with nuts both ends 😊
Kroil or 50/50 atf and acetone to free up fixings. Mannol do a rust dissolver as well.
Do a google on disassembly before getting the hammer out so readily ....... looks like a bearing retainer riveted in place on plate, then a bearing puller / slide hammer to get bearing out of retainer. Look up polarizing - not sure if that applies to posi earth.
Looks like you need gloves playing with your new cat 😂
Nah..... That's not a kitten - it's an energised ball of barbed wire on legs. I have two just like it, right here! 🐈🐱
in the USA we call those keys a *moon key*
A basic multi-meter is usually affected by the high voltage produced by the coil and distributed by the plug leads, hence the erratic voltage readings.
A better thing is a proper analogue ammeter
If you succeed in getting end off could you drill the broken bits out and either make new bolts on you lathe or buy a length of threaded rod an d put a nut on either end?
Can you get a puller on it using the flange to hold on to the puller grips?
All that heat around the armature windings will have toasted the insulation!
Quality farm engineering!
just get a small puller and pull it off. Or find a press and press that cover off with a press
Use the lathe machine some up or fit an alternator
Adam when are you going to wash the Fergie . ? . and a merry Christmas to you and the Wife ....
If originality isn't your thing a cheap Lucas ACR alternator and suitable pulley would be a good fix. Certainly cheaper than a dynamo and regulator.
Mr man cave you give us a tiny snippet of a mechanical hack saw a few videos back can we have a proper look at that please. 🤗🤗🤗🤗
Have a look around and see if there's any one man band alternator rebuild lads around and would he let you watch it repaired....
Second option is look at TH-cam for rebuild of same just so you can figure out how to tek it t bits 🤗👍🇮🇪
You are scrubbing all the "newness" off that dynamo.
New ones are available from The old twenty parts co
Can you make replacement bolts on your lathe? Best wishes from Spain.
Land rover 2A dynamo should fit and plentiful,
Put penetrating oil on then again after night then once again before trying to undo the long bolts usually works did for me
You need to drill out the 4 rivets to remove the end plate.
Be better off putting a morris 1000 alternator on if it don't bother you about keeping it original Adam but agricultural spec was closed in more then normal had less air vents due to dust etc but good luck mate
Always use the puller
I don’t want to be too disrespectful about your fergie, she looks terrible but starts and sounds like a superstar 🎉
Get a recon one. I don't feel this one is worth the agro.
Love your Videos warts an all but I was proper cringing on this one lol
Why didn't you tap the armature out of the housing, you have now burnt the wiring, then you could have welded a nut on, and then used already.
All thread
It's goosed, why didn't you get the other to see if was any good to replace? Is there no regulator, rectifier to check?
If it was mine I'd put a lucas alternator on it , by the time you have that dynamo and regulator changed it will cost more. If you want to keep it original you'll need a new regulator and dynamo plus a rewire.
It is well truly fuck now heat stroke 😂😂😂
You got a Lathe you plonka, makes some new bolts, its what is for!!!
That was less Man Cave and More Cave Man! You need to be a little less brutal! Use more heat on things and get yourself a hydraulic press.
Good content though! 👍🏼
drill those a little and use an easy out
Why not try some threaded bar
put alternater on instead
Think safe to say probs cheaper to buy a new one that one pretty crap looking
Don't waste anymore time on it just source a newer one, some things can never be saved.
wish you would have removed the armature before attacking with the blowlamp real risk of burning the copper windings !!!
Weld a nut on to the ends of the broken stud Adam
Try putting some real oil onto that bearing and see what happens, WD40 washes lubricant away.
You should have asked santa for one
REMOVE THE "C" CLIP AND IT WILL COME OFF.
New studs try Patrick Edwards
He has stopped selling spares now. Still buying and selling tractors apparently.
Drill the rivets out then it will come apart
brute force and ignorance and crushing the outside of said dynamo in the vice
Hi Adam the recon dynamo about £66 I wil message you as cant put photo on here
I can see you have a Cat!
Fix it till it's broke
Get a bit of stud and cut to length
Just get another on you are wasting time and money