I'm really enjoying the "everyman climber" angle with Olaf. I hope he stays with it and doesn't get discouraged, I'm looking forward to seeing his progress.
Minor editing detail I just noticed: If you watch it from 6:00 till 6:45, Magnus has timed the song perfectly for the two 'flashes' to happen exactly with beat on two powerful moves, during which it would naturally make sense to take a photograph and the camera would flash. Sorry if it's some basic editing trick nowadays that I only now just noticed for the first time, but I noticed how there was a flash first when he cuts his feet on the roof at 6:16 and caught myself thinking that 'damn, someone is photographing him as well'. But when it happened again 20 seconds later, I noticed that it is actually completely on beat. So I went back to 6:00 or so, and realized it is just some editing thing added afterwards aye, but still really cool noticing stuff like this for the first time.
Super work, Olav. Keep going. Everyone watching these videos get pumped, slip on holds, struggle to clip, fall. And we all want to see you struggle, but continue. That way we will all continue too. That was a 6b+, but the holds look like they are mostly jugs. Are the holds better because it's lead?
routes are much better than bouldering when it comes to this. the grading on routes tends to be on most the crux section. so a 6b+ would be mostly easy with a crux section of maybe V3 bouldering.
I think EpicTV did a video on grading in different scales. If I recall correctly the 5.1X rating works like you said, rated for the crux move, while the french(?) system rates the overall difficulty. Might be the other way around, I'm not sure because it's been some time since I watched said video. I believe in gyms its even more dependant on the local setters how the grading works.
Magnus' finger strength never ceases to amaze me. Look at 14:01 and imagine holding a whole body (muscular at that) with only that tip of the fingers' pinch.
Magnus, i love your videos really, perfect cutting and you are a great inspiration for a perfect climbing technique! Thanks for all the work and for sharing that beautiful climbing stuff!
Hard to say, of course I haven't climbed it and there was probably 25m more climbing to go after the fall. My gym usually make the first few clips several grades lower too.
Awesome video magnus! I love to see you try new things with your editing and it's always a pleasure to see you try hard on nice routes. From the bouldering session I wasn't sure about olav making it through the year but after seeing him on a route it's really as you said: he's a natural! He tries hard and place his body relatively well for a very beginner! I sure he'll be awesome climber in no time! I'd like to see him on easier, less overhanging route to test his mental with some air below ^^ For You're editing, as I said I love to see you try new stuff but the white flashes on the first climb were pretty brutal for the eyes in a dark room -_-' it was cool but I feel like i need a white stick and paire of dark glasses now XD Love from france
Casually cruising an 8b+ really impressive. Also I'm really impressed, how far your editing has come. It's pretty awesome! Also: Is there any reason you don't clip the first quickdraw (besides pure lazyness)?
I don't typically clip the first quickdraw in gyms, usually the first one is close enough to the ground where I'd rather just take a ground fall before the second one
Could you (sometimes) comment some common mistakes that your brother, who's learning, can make ( in order for us to see some minors details that can help us progress) ? Btw, your vlog is better everyday ! Keep going, we are following !
Cool episode as always :) Do you have some videos of your climbing when you were in your beginner years. Would be interesting to see. You could make a episode about that.
Hi magnus! great vlog as always! could you please make a video or two about more beginner - oriented campus exercises? Love you vlogs and keep up the good work!
10:40 "less people"? Bruh, Oslo has 634k inhabitants. The entire country has less people than New York. Rest of Europe is envious at how few people there are on that ice cube. Also envious at your high standard of living and at your green fund and healthcare and schools, even prisons.
Could you elaborate on what you said at the start of the video about new climbers who mostly boulder and get strong quickly, but then get injured? Because I feel like that is what is happening to me and I really don't want to get injured. Thanks!
Really, Olav made it half way through a 5.12a and he has only seen climbing video? It took me 4 months of biweekly climbing before I did my first 5.12a.
I was wondering if you had any advice on how to deal with fear when lead climbing? I am very anxious when doing so and I feel like it refrains me from improving quickly but I have not yet found an effective way to deal with that
apendretas Yeah, I tried doing so but the problem is that at this moment I know I'm gonna fall so it's okay, I know I won't hurt myself. (Even though I know that it is not dangerous anyway since I'm belayed but when I'm up I don't think that clear sadly.) And the huge problem is when I clip I am afraid to take some lack and clip and fall when doing so.
Try clipping when the bolt is right about waist height. Although this is easier said than done, just do your best to limit the amount of slack that you pull when clipping. That's a reasonable fear to have and can be dangerous to take excess slack when clipping during your first few bolts. Otherwise climb more and find a belay partner you trust. Good Luck!
I climbed lead for the first time in my life few days ago. First went on a easy route and felt uncomfortable a bit. Mostly because I did not know how to clip efficiently. Then went to the part of the gym that is set up almost like a boulder, not very high and with thick crash pad beneath. Practiced clipping for few times and went climbing on a harder route... That did it for me.
Great videos, very inspirational. I don’t think any of us watching would hold it against you if you kept your eyes on the road while filming in the car.
Olav is watching you climb too much. 11:40, you clip like that with your foot dangling because you are crazystrong and you can do whatever, but normal people must care for a proper footwork :D
It's still a boulder problem at that point. Could he have been more on the ball, yes. Until the second clip he basically was just a spotter (although he didn't spot at all). Maybe the problem is only 5.4 at that point, so less worries.
@@ripapa6355 the belay behaviour looks definetily wrong to me. The route was even unclimbed, so there is a higher chance for loose holds. And he gives out rope when magnus climed although there is already too much slack. I wouldn't let me belayed like this, but that's just my opinion
lol i was just thinking the same thing. super toned upper body with chicken legs. like a gymnast. for what he does though, this makes sense. you need tons of upper body strength and having smaller legs will reduce your weight on the wall.
Sandro climbing seems to build a lot more leg muscles than I was expecting, and usually if you can do a one-leg squat then you’re probably as strong as you need to be in your legs
Magnus Midtbø that's a really good point. I have those moments all the time where I think a route is going to be easier and then you get on it and the angle and position it puts you in is surprising. Great climbing and tell your brother to keep up the good work. Thanks for the reply!
Would you consider hiring someone to respond to comments and handle community engagement? Think it 'd be worth? I bet it'd create more fans, word of mouth, reach, exposure, and brand loyalty... just a thought.
I'm really enjoying the "everyman climber" angle with Olaf. I hope he stays with it and doesn't get discouraged, I'm looking forward to seeing his progress.
Great to do a bit of climbing and catching up again, looking forward to more.
Go crush in Spain now, Magnus!
So good to see Robin again! I've missed that guy! I love the outdoor shots in the beginning. Winter in Norway looks so beautiful
In the last 3/4 months, your videos have just gone to a whole new level. Absolutely loving the content.
Minor editing detail I just noticed: If you watch it from 6:00 till 6:45, Magnus has timed the song perfectly for the two 'flashes' to happen exactly with beat on two powerful moves, during which it would naturally make sense to take a photograph and the camera would flash. Sorry if it's some basic editing trick nowadays that I only now just noticed for the first time, but I noticed how there was a flash first when he cuts his feet on the roof at 6:16 and caught myself thinking that 'damn, someone is photographing him as well'. But when it happened again 20 seconds later, I noticed that it is actually completely on beat. So I went back to 6:00 or so, and realized it is just some editing thing added afterwards aye, but still really cool noticing stuff like this for the first time.
I so much like seeing a "normal climber" on 5-6 level routes both in boulder and lead. That is pretty useful for some non-expert climber
i am a normal climber;)
Yes! I love it. It's about the same grades I used to climb when first getting into lead and top rope climbing.
Need to be pushing the grade. Normal climbers push the GRADE!
happy to see robin again
Super work, Olav. Keep going. Everyone watching these videos get pumped, slip on holds, struggle to clip, fall. And we all want to see you struggle, but continue. That way we will all continue too. That was a 6b+, but the holds look like they are mostly jugs. Are the holds better because it's lead?
routes are much better than bouldering when it comes to this. the grading on routes tends to be on most the crux section. so a 6b+ would be mostly easy with a crux section of maybe V3 bouldering.
Thank you, appreciate the kind words!
I think EpicTV did a video on grading in different scales. If I recall correctly the 5.1X rating works like you said, rated for the crux move, while the french(?) system rates the overall difficulty. Might be the other way around, I'm not sure because it's been some time since I watched said video. I believe in gyms its even more dependant on the local setters how the grading works.
A lot of the reason this is a 6b+ is the steep overhang, I think. I go to this gym, and that wall drains your muscles pretty effectively.
Magnus' finger strength never ceases to amaze me. Look at 14:01 and imagine holding a whole body (muscular at that) with only that tip of the fingers' pinch.
Magnus, i love your videos really, perfect cutting and you are a great inspiration for a perfect climbing technique! Thanks for all the work and for sharing that beautiful climbing stuff!
Good to see Robin back in the vlog again!
Masterful clipping by Olav :^)
I realy like your videos! soo chill and relaxing! the way I enjoy climbing :)
Finally! Took some time, been waiting for the next upload! Cheers!
10:10 good old colt 45 as background music nice.
I swear the song playing when you climbed the black samples the sound of a phone vibrating. Made me check mine about 10 times haha
I like that you've been putting YDS/Hueco conversions for the routes :)
Explain all you want, but I'm convinced that climbing just runs in your family's genes. Olav's progression is insane!
Except that gym grades really soft. That 5.11a he was climbing would be a 5.6/7 outside. Same with the boulders. Nothing against Olav, though.
Hard to say, of course I haven't climbed it and there was probably 25m more climbing to go after the fall. My gym usually make the first few clips several grades lower too.
Awesome video magnus! I love to see you try new things with your editing and it's always a pleasure to see you try hard on nice routes. From the bouldering session I wasn't sure about olav making it through the year but after seeing him on a route it's really as you said: he's a natural! He tries hard and place his body relatively well for a very beginner! I sure he'll be awesome climber in no time! I'd like to see him on easier, less overhanging route to test his mental with some air below ^^
For You're editing, as I said I love to see you try new stuff but the white flashes on the first climb were pretty brutal for the eyes in a dark room -_-' it was cool but I feel like i need a white stick and paire of dark glasses now XD
Love from france
Uauuuu! Chilam Balam, I love that route! I hope you climb it
Casually cruising an 8b+ really impressive. Also I'm really impressed, how far your editing has come. It's pretty awesome!
Also: Is there any reason you don't clip the first quickdraw (besides pure lazyness)?
I don't typically clip the first quickdraw in gyms, usually the first one is close enough to the ground where I'd rather just take a ground fall before the second one
If your belayer is alot lighter than you sometimes they can slam into the first draw and get injured so its better to skip it
Our bolts are so close that it's honestly not worth it and second usually isn't but an extra move or so away
Music and climbing on point for this vlog!
Could you (sometimes) comment some common mistakes that your brother, who's learning, can make ( in order for us to see some minors details that can help us progress) ? Btw, your vlog is better everyday ! Keep going, we are following !
Sure
A still shot, like the snow-covered trees intro, would be nice to fill up a blank spot on your walls. Great eye.
Haha yes I agree!
I miss Robin! He was a legend!
welcome back Robin!
chilam balam will be awesome, can't wait!
Watching those dynos on the first couple clips of the pink route with so much slack in the rope was rough but also awesome! :)
Cool episode as always :)
Do you have some videos of your climbing when you were in your beginner years. Would be interesting to see. You could make a episode about that.
That's a good idea. The oldest footage I have is from around 2003 I think, so not super old
Magnus Midtbø Still cool 👍😉
I feel like you should have included this week's slab in the video, I saw you climbed it, looked awesome.
Good luck to you for Chilam Balam. You can send it!
The editing was good this video.
I love how Magnus was on the wall and robin was still in tying the mess of rope 😂
That 5.11a looks interesting... *finds new potential flash PR*
Robiiin!!!, good video magnus!
That 8b+ looked casual.
lol thats because it is casual for a climber as good as magnus ;)
Hi magnus! great vlog as always!
could you please make a video or two about more beginner - oriented campus exercises?
Love you vlogs and keep up the good work!
Walking in the ski trail, oh my....
RadCliff Normann it wasnt ski trail
Here in Norway everybody is in the ski trail. Last week I saw hikers, joggers, dogs, sleighs, mountain bikes and all type of skiers. 😊
Are you magnus the oldest sibling? Then hannah and olaf or? And its so amazing to think that siblings are both top tier climbers
magnus the little preview when u hover over the thumbnail, great to see robin tho for sure!
Please bring back Robin! :)
Lol Afroman playing in the background.
Hi Magnus! You are very strong and can you do please one video how to train or how you train you?
Subscribed
Wow that wall is huge, how long are the routes going through the overhang?
Hi Magnus awsome videos as of late, liking the vlogs with your brother!
Just wandering if you were plannoing on making anymore tutorial videos?
Thanks
Robin hype!
4:18 🙈🙈🙈
10:40 "less people"? Bruh, Oslo has 634k inhabitants. The entire country has less people than New York. Rest of Europe is envious at how few people there are on that ice cube. Also envious at your high standard of living and at your green fund and healthcare and schools, even prisons.
Could you elaborate on what you said at the start of the video about new climbers who mostly boulder and get strong quickly, but then get injured? Because I feel like that is what is happening to me and I really don't want to get injured. Thanks!
ROBIN!!!!! I was hoping you would make a return.
Really, Olav made it half way through a 5.12a and he has only seen climbing video? It took me 4 months of biweekly climbing before I did my first 5.12a.
Magnus, have you ever heard of the word "pumped", because apparently you never get it.
Fucking awesome soundtrack. Which musician is this at 12:50? Hope to find this at spotify!
I was wondering if you had any advice on how to deal with fear when lead climbing? I am very anxious when doing so and I feel like it refrains me from improving quickly but I have not yet found an effective way to deal with that
practice falling, would be one option
apendretas Yeah, I tried doing so but the problem is that at this moment I know I'm gonna fall so it's okay, I know I won't hurt myself. (Even though I know that it is not dangerous anyway since I'm belayed but when I'm up I don't think that clear sadly.) And the huge problem is when I clip I am afraid to take some lack and clip and fall when doing so.
Laure The TH-cam channel "Day in nature" has about 10 videos regarding this topic. The are called "Overcoming the fear of falling".
Try clipping when the bolt is right about waist height. Although this is easier said than done, just do your best to limit the amount of slack that you pull when clipping. That's a reasonable fear to have and can be dangerous to take excess slack when clipping during your first few bolts. Otherwise climb more and find a belay partner you trust. Good Luck!
I climbed lead for the first time in my life few days ago. First went on a easy route and felt uncomfortable a bit. Mostly because I did not know how to clip efficiently. Then went to the part of the gym that is set up almost like a boulder, not very high and with thick crash pad beneath. Practiced clipping for few times and went climbing on a harder route... That did it for me.
Is Magnus the owner of the gym?
I've never seen a 12a with so many jugs in my life LOL, I'm sure it's harder than it looks on video though it always is
belaying like a pro lol
That's a big gym! how high the wall is?
17,5 meters
Thx for the answer! Nice but still a bit low to traine for chilam balam ^^
Can anyone recommend a great bouldering mat for my first mat if I will likely be bouldering alone most of the time? (Preferably not too expensive)
Magnus, where exactly are you going to go in Spain?
Alfonso Parrado if hes trying chilam Balam Villanueva del Rosario, Andalucía
Great videos, very inspirational. I don’t think any of us watching would hold it against you if you kept your eyes on the road while filming in the car.
Easy climbing 8b+...
unclimbed until Magnus turned up...!
Olav is watching you climb too much. 11:40, you clip like that with your foot dangling because you are crazystrong and you can do whatever, but normal people must care for a proper footwork :D
Jesus, how do you even pull through the rope drag on a 80m route? 0_0
Have arms like Magnus!
Wow, I thought it was you with long hair. You're physically the sames
that 12a looked like a 10b
4:39 why that much slack rope ? In most of the videos, even to the 4.-5. exe. That would be 100% a grounder
It's still a boulder problem at that point. Could he have been more on the ball, yes. Until the second clip he basically was just a spotter (although he didn't spot at all).
Maybe the problem is only 5.4 at that point, so less worries.
@@ripapa6355 the belay behaviour looks definetily wrong to me. The route was even unclimbed, so there is a higher chance for loose holds. And he gives out rope when magnus climed although there is already too much slack.
I wouldn't let me belayed like this, but that's just my opinion
Hey Magnus!
Do you ever do legs exercises?
lol i was just thinking the same thing. super toned upper body with chicken legs. like a gymnast. for what he does though, this makes sense. you need tons of upper body strength and having smaller legs will reduce your weight on the wall.
I always skip leg day:) Don't need it for the type of climbing that I do.
Magnus Midtbø I supposed it :D
But what about run or cycling?😏
Don't they help for 80 metres lines?😵
Sandro climbing seems to build a lot more leg muscles than I was expecting, and usually if you can do a one-leg squat then you’re probably as strong as you need to be in your legs
are you gonna try neanderthal when you're in spain?
They called him engine
Are you sure that was 5.11a? It looked much easier and looked a lot like jugs
It's hard to see how steep it is from that angle.
Magnus Midtbø that's a really good point. I have those moments all the time where I think a route is going to be easier and then you get on it and the angle and position it puts you in is surprising. Great climbing and tell your brother to keep up the good work. Thanks for the reply!
It's also a very long route (30m maybe?)
titojosh I didn't realize their routes were that tall. Wish I had them that high at my local gym
That's what I was thinking about the red 5.12a
Do you have a stretching routine?
Cool video as usual but the belaying at th-cam.com/video/JA2R7U18chI/w-d-xo.html ? Perhaps not the best example..?
That's exactly what came into my mind as well! Much too much rope on the floor.
Looks like the juggiest 5.11a i've ever seen
1st!
Robin feels fat?! The heck. Yes, guys get body dysmorphia too
magnus can you in a video show the gym
too easy red 7a+....
always look easy when someone else is climbing
exactly ahahaha
Would you consider hiring someone to respond to comments and handle community engagement? Think it 'd be worth? I bet it'd create more fans, word of mouth, reach, exposure, and brand loyalty... just a thought.
Is everyone going to ignore Colt 45?
10:10
I was dying laughing when I heard it in the background
Not the most successful day - after he flies up a 8b+