Just in case Olav is reading, a small advice I wish I heard as a beginner - try not to focus on the progress too much, but more on just having a good time. Even if you're climbing with Magnus, getting better will take a long time, so if you don't wanna be discouraged after 2-3 months, don't set the expectations too high. ;)
@@EveryoneHarmonyPeace add 3 more number 9s after the dot and you'd be about right. Barely anyone is a rock climber (compared to the overall population) and even less people can climb an 8a, let alone onsight it
@@EveryoneHarmonyPeace not really. Considering most climbers are amateurs, the best grade they can climb is 7a/7a+. Not so sure about onsighting it. I'd say the average climber can onsight a 6c but 7a is where the trouble begins
"sometimes feeling too strong makes you want to climb too controlled...." great insight. Spot on - definitely been guilty of that looking back on things.. but never really thought about it before or realised it. Another great blog. Loving the format with the bro. Nice one geezer!!
Seeing you give tips and advice to your brother is super helpful, especially since I climb at the same level as him right now. Your content is awesome, subbed!
Dude Olav’s climbing is so good already ! Feels like what he lacks most is confidence and endurance ! His footwork is really nice ! Also, i have a suggestion : could you show us your food sometimes ? Not in every single vlog, but i think it’d be interesting from time to time :) Keep up the good work, your vlogs are better and better
One of my favs. SO sweet to hear you help/analyze your bro and voiceover your own climbing, esp pointing out the crux and such. Helpful, interesting and fun....and as always, inspiring!
When i bring new people to the gym i always say "have fun, don't think about grade". And honestly, by just climbing 2-4 times a week i think most people can get up to 6c/7a.
Consider to write "Onsight Attempt" instead in upcoming videos... ...It is much more exciting to watch, when you don't know if you will send the route/boulder. Great videos though!
Love the videos Magnus! My girlfriend is working 6b and I'm working 7c+, so we both love seeing progress at different levels... Thanks for the vlog, we love it :) Cheers from Banff, Canada!
I think that with the vlog it's candid and informal anyways, so the quality of the content itself is way more important than anything else. The G7X is a nice convenient camera as it is, and can still take excellent stills and B roll like you show.
So much value out of your vlog and it its for free. I learn just by watching and listening to your comments. Top notch work just like your climbing gym which was a pleasure to discover. Awesome sauce !
I don't really care about the sound. At least as long as it stays like this. It's not bad at all, and in the end it's the content and the story you tell that matters. Not the sound or video-quality.
I like the Olav training concept. Btw it would be fun if you finished the videos where he trains with a list of milestones he reached and things he needs to work on and how to do it. Wouldn't take much longer time because you already say it in the video, and would make it easier for us to follow
Love the way this vlog is always getting better, and the edits always smoother. One little editing tip: when replaying small fragments of shots (like when you replayed the quick shot of you falling going for the gaston) it's best to leave a little extra space (a few frames-half a second) on the front end of the action you're cutting to, so the viewers can "catch" what you're cutting to show. A lot of classic Hong Kong action movies are great examples of how this works to make the transitions between shots "smoother" to the eye, by leaving in a few extra frames of overlapping movement. (so if a sequence of things between two shots is ABCD, one shot contains ABC, and the next shows CD, so that viewers can readjust on the C)
Pretty cool videos magnus keep it up!... ive never climbed before and somehow im just very excited to give it a try after watching many hours of your videos you make it look to easy
Your gym uses a lot of volumes (more than other gyms you have been to?). How do you feel that helps in making the routes better? Also, it would be awesome if you had done a vlog about the setting process Adam, Louis and Kenneth do on a daily basis sometime in the future
Magnus I challenge you to a 45 second one arm lockoff. (you start roughly at 90degree angle, and are done when elbow drops below 45degrees) Best wishes!
Do you do any cardio activities for your training; ie; running, biking, etc? Also if you get someone to belay a videographer near you with a wider lens the footage will show the extreme angles more and you'll be able to see what you're doing. I personally love the route footage, but also understand it's difficult to coordinate video.
Hey Magnus, when I climb a few days in a row I end up with a lot of pain in my lower biceps. Do you ever get this? and if so is there anything you would recommend to prevent it or help it get better?
Magnus I'm a spanish boy who has no idea of climbing, never climbed in my life, but I really want to. I heard you're going to come to Malaga (I'm from Cadiz though), is Chilam Balam a good place to climb for the first time? Or should I go somewhere else? Definitely I'd rather a gym, but there aren't any here, as far as I know
I noticed Olav tends to clip a bit "late" as he progresses through the route, i.e his upper body is already on the same level, or above the clip, sometimes the next clip is almost within reach. Not being knowledgeable in the ways of lead climbing, I'm wondering whether this is adequate form, or if it doesn't really matter as long as you clip?
As you say it doesnt really matter too much so long as you clip in (Obviously nearer to the ground you may have some exceptions to the rule, however low clipping usually creates bigger falls than a run out clip). The key with lead climbing is making sure that you clip from the best most secure position and not falling into the habit of clipping from a low position because you're scared when there is actually a much better position a metre higher up. If you watch Magnus climb he clips from all sorts of heights in order to make sure he is the most efficient with energy use and clipping from the best spot. Generally once you are above about clip 4 it would be almost impossible to hit the floor (with a good belayer) so then it become all about efficiency rather than safety.
slnmnsk Also counterintuitively, if you fall whilst clipping early there is more slack in the system (equal to the distance from your harness to the clip above you) which can result in a bigger/more dangerous fall. Recently I've been really focussing on avoiding the temptation to clip early unless the route setters have clearly given a secure place to do it from, or before a risky crux move like Magnus did in the video.
Really enjoying seeing Olav's progress too!
Tom Smith derer
such an epic climber but such down to earth dude.
daim hall you know what they say: opposites are the same.
Just in case Olav is reading, a small advice I wish I heard as a beginner - try not to focus on the progress too much, but more on just having a good time. Even if you're climbing with Magnus, getting better will take a long time, so if you don't wanna be discouraged after 2-3 months, don't set the expectations too high. ;)
That's a very good piece of advice👌
"8a+ onsight is pretty hard." - Magnus Midtbo 2018
lol
I am pretty sure it is impossible for more than 99% of the population.
@@EveryoneHarmonyPeace add 3 more number 9s after the dot and you'd be about right. Barely anyone is a rock climber (compared to the overall population) and even less people can climb an 8a, let alone onsight it
@@festenzurius7454 Just asking, but many can onsight 7a right?
@@EveryoneHarmonyPeace not really. Considering most climbers are amateurs, the best grade they can climb is 7a/7a+. Not so sure about onsighting it. I'd say the average climber can onsight a 6c but 7a is where the trouble begins
"sometimes feeling too strong makes you want to climb too controlled...." great insight. Spot on - definitely been guilty of that looking back on things.. but never really thought about it before or realised it. Another great blog. Loving the format with the bro. Nice one geezer!!
I love to see your brother climbing and you analyzing it. I learn a lot of that and hope you do it more often!
The part about being “too strong” was super recognizable for me.
Makes so much sense. Thanks magnus!
It's cool see how much more confortable with camera olav is already
Seeing you give tips and advice to your brother is super helpful, especially since I climb at the same level as him right now. Your content is awesome, subbed!
Dude Olav’s climbing is so good already ! Feels like what he lacks most is confidence and endurance ! His footwork is really nice !
Also, i have a suggestion : could you show us your food sometimes ? Not in every single vlog, but i think it’d be interesting from time to time :)
Keep up the good work, your vlogs are better and better
One of my favs. SO sweet to hear you help/analyze your bro and voiceover your own climbing, esp pointing out the crux and such. Helpful, interesting and fun....and as always, inspiring!
It’s great seeing Olav and having you comment on moves and progress! If only we all had a Magnus in the background 😂
When i bring new people to the gym i always say "have fun, don't think about grade". And honestly, by just climbing 2-4 times a week i think most people can get up to 6c/7a.
Super fun these past episodes, including high poitns and stuff! Nice to see Olav's progress, and climbing on a more relateable/human level :D
kjør på!
Consider to write "Onsight Attempt" instead in upcoming videos... ...It is much more exciting to watch, when you don't know if you will send the route/boulder. Great videos though!
I think it's really cool, that your brother joined the channel
I really enjoy watching👍
Love the videos Magnus! My girlfriend is working 6b and I'm working 7c+, so we both love seeing progress at different levels... Thanks for the vlog, we love it :) Cheers from Banff, Canada!
I think that with the vlog it's candid and informal anyways, so the quality of the content itself is way more important than anything else. The G7X is a nice convenient camera as it is, and can still take excellent stills and B roll like you show.
So much value out of your vlog and it its for free. I learn just by watching and listening to your comments. Top notch work just like your climbing gym which was a pleasure to discover. Awesome sauce !
Love the voice overs! Would love to see some from the trip to Spain!
I don't really care about the sound. At least as long as it stays like this. It's not bad at all, and in the end it's the content and the story you tell that matters. Not the sound or video-quality.
I like the Olav training concept. Btw it would be fun if you finished the videos where he trains with a list of milestones he reached and things he needs to work on and how to do it. Wouldn't take much longer time because you already say it in the video, and would make it easier for us to follow
6:50 Very good advice I think, I never thought about that
Magnus, i'm glad you're making current vlogs again man. Congrats!
Loving the voiceover, full of good advice and insights!
Huh... 'feel the pump, climb faster'. I've never thought about trying that before. Great advise! Thanks!!
Commenting to support
Love the way this vlog is always getting better, and the edits always smoother.
One little editing tip: when replaying small fragments of shots (like when you replayed the quick shot of you falling going for the gaston) it's best to leave a little extra space (a few frames-half a second) on the front end of the action you're cutting to, so the viewers can "catch" what you're cutting to show. A lot of classic Hong Kong action movies are great examples of how this works to make the transitions between shots "smoother" to the eye, by leaving in a few extra frames of overlapping movement. (so if a sequence of things between two shots is ABCD, one shot contains ABC, and the next shows CD, so that viewers can readjust on the C)
Good stuff guys. I enjoy it very much...good to be back watching the vlog:)
Really interesting point about strength -> desire to control. Hmm. Food for thought.
Pretty cool videos magnus keep it up!... ive never climbed before and somehow im just very excited to give it a try after watching many hours of your videos you make it look to easy
Hey Magnus, i would love to see a video about scarpa climbing shoes, and how to fit the Drago right.
Congrats on two new highpoints!
Your gym uses a lot of volumes (more than other gyms you have been to?). How do you feel that helps in making the routes better? Also, it would be awesome if you had done a vlog about the setting process Adam, Louis and Kenneth do on a daily basis sometime in the future
awesome filming of the white route
olav's climbing and camera work is getting better every episode! has he started editing yet?
That's good to hear! Not yet. I was probably a bit optimistic thinking it would only take a couple of weeks
Sport climbing videos is where it's at
Magnus I challenge you to a 45 second one arm lockoff. (you start roughly at 90degree angle, and are done when elbow drops below 45degrees) Best wishes!
my god you brother looks just like you
Do you do any cardio activities for your training; ie; running, biking, etc? Also if you get someone to belay a videographer near you with a wider lens the footage will show the extreme angles more and you'll be able to see what you're doing. I personally love the route footage, but also understand it's difficult to coordinate video.
The filming has gotten a lot better with your brother filming. You could probably use a gimbal though :^)
Really good music choices
The audio does not seem so bad. I say work with what ya got.
Why do you not climb in Flatanger very often?
Olav look freakishly alot like Paul Dano from There will be blood and Swiss Army Man.
I'm so excited to see you on chilam balam! Are you planning on trying planta de shiva too?
samuraifliphop I think I will have my hands full with Chilam, but maybe😊
Magnus Midtbø good luck on chilam Balam!
Jeeez, Olav looks like Paul Dano doppelganger. I was quite confused there for a moment.
How old are you an when did you begin climbing?
Tom Runge I'm 29 and started when I was 11
at 12:08 is that james may in the background ?
Strongest climber ....
Are there and specific workouts you do to help with these long endurance climbs?
I kinda missed the coffee portion of the vlog!
What got you to do this,when and why did you get started?
impressive
Hey Magnus, when I climb a few days in a row I end up with a lot of pain in my lower biceps. Do you ever get this? and if so is there anything you would recommend to prevent it or help it get better?
Magnus I'm a spanish boy who has no idea of climbing, never climbed in my life, but I really want to. I heard you're going to come to Malaga (I'm from Cadiz though), is Chilam Balam a good place to climb for the first time? Or should I go somewhere else?
Definitely I'd rather a gym, but there aren't any here, as far as I know
Is Olav coming with to spain? :) Awesome effort!
The Goaticornist yes😎
On 12:40 I was so suprised...I felt, i would fall down...to be honest im scared to look down...😅
Has that route ever been completed?
11:37 - I didn't know James May was a fan of rock climbing....
Has anyone else climbed the 9a there? The highest I've ever seen in my gym is a 5.13
Magnus just out pf curiousity: why dont you compete in like ifsc bouldering or something??
Has anyone ever completed that course??
magnus ecuals spider man 2.0 bra video veldig inspirerende jeg håper at jeg kan bli like go som deg en dag
5:14 tf keanu reeves doing there
I noticed Olav tends to clip a bit "late" as he progresses through the route, i.e his upper body is already on the same level, or above the clip, sometimes the next clip is almost within reach. Not being knowledgeable in the ways of lead climbing, I'm wondering whether this is adequate form, or if it doesn't really matter as long as you clip?
As you say it doesnt really matter too much so long as you clip in (Obviously nearer to the ground you may have some exceptions to the rule, however low clipping usually creates bigger falls than a run out clip). The key with lead climbing is making sure that you clip from the best most secure position and not falling into the habit of clipping from a low position because you're scared when there is actually a much better position a metre higher up. If you watch Magnus climb he clips from all sorts of heights in order to make sure he is the most efficient with energy use and clipping from the best spot. Generally once you are above about clip 4 it would be almost impossible to hit the floor (with a good belayer) so then it become all about efficiency rather than safety.
Cheers, thanks :)
slnmnsk Also counterintuitively, if you fall whilst clipping early there is more slack in the system (equal to the distance from your harness to the clip above you) which can result in a bigger/more dangerous fall.
Recently I've been really focussing on avoiding the temptation to clip early unless the route setters have clearly given a secure place to do it from, or before a risky crux move like Magnus did in the video.
That 6a+ looks like an absolute jug-fest