That is brilliant!! Absolutely the most complete tutorial about the fuel pump on Audi TT I've found on the net. The only things you forget to precise is that the model you consider in this video, is the Audi TT 225HP Quattro.
Hey mate thanks so much for this video! Helped me fix my girlfriends TT which was stuck in the parking garage. Be careful choosing the right pump The Quattro is different to the FWD.
Is there a pre filter on that fuel pump too inside the tank. Took my TT for a spin and noticed a little bit of hesitation. I’ve changed all filters and changed oils in the TT
Ive watched the video, its good and on point, but what if I want to just diagnose the existing fuel pump instead of replacing the whole unit? What am I looking to clean inside? Also my one of the plastic got stuck inside the black plug.. will I have to replace the whole thing now? Or just the top cap?
Hello mate! My TT wouldn’t start but after a few knocks on the fuel pump as described it works perfectly again. Even primes when you turn on the ignition. Still needs replacement? Or am I good to go?
It’s your call, there is a possibility it might stick again, but I have known them to last years only sticking once, thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Hello sir, I’m having an issue with my TT that I think may be the pump but am unsure. She fires up and drives at low revs, NOT in boost, just fine, but when I try to get on it at all, it sputters, and according to my aftermarket air/fuel ratio gauge, is running very lean while it sputters. Does this seem more like a broken fuel pump, or faulty injectors?
@@aaanton11 thank you! I have a fuel pressure gauge, it reads 3.8 bar on the nose. I replaced my fuel filter yesterday and it had little effect. I’m going to change the injectors tomorrow hopefully!
Hi ! Great video thank you so much ! I have this issue now and i had to left my car far away stranded , I’ll be back in the morning and try this hammer trick just to get it back but I’m not sure how to do it right should I hit it with the hammer before taking the screws out of the tank lid where the pump is ? Thanks again !! If anyone knows too please help❤
Thanks from Perth Western Australia , had mine running in a jiffy! Replaced pump, swirl pot,($160) came as unit, complete in Australia looked about 650-750. Even liked your bit on the Audi electrical clips, if this is how you make videos make more cause in shaw you will get the views! Cheers Matt.
Hi i know this is nothing to do with the sender unit but every time i take off my petrol cap on the audi tt mk1 bam air always comes out do you have any thoughts cheers
Add Fuel, that usually works 😂, its easy to remove the sensor in the tank and check the resistance across the pins, if that's ok it will be the gauge, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Hi, my old TT has a few electrical issues 1 tank shows empty tho full 2 temp gauge reads over heating if you re start the car it reads cold 3 radios not working or the electric seats relays???
Very nice video for us not so sharp DIY'ers. He should do a video on how the US political system works so we can understand it much better. Thanks again from Phoenix, AZ
Just tried to start mine after it had been sitting, and I did not hear that recognizable "whir" when I turn the key. The back seat's already off, so I definitely think it's a seized fuel pump. I'll check the fuse first just in case.
Hiya, I have a 2003 A3 1.8T Quattro which won't start. All signs point to the fuel pump, but we're struggling to get the pump out, it seems to be attached to something. Are we doing something wrong?
you make a fantastic point, but no!, if the tank is full the fuel will spill out when you remove the sender, the lower level the easer the job.Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 Thanks for the input. I have a small fan I'll use to blow air over the area where I'll be working for the fuel pump replacement in my wife's 2003 Audi TT … just for mental comfort purposes, of course .
@@aaanton11 Forgot to mention one thing. There's suppose to be a gasket that seals of the pump, right? You didn't have petrol smells or leak, did you? I've read the gaskets is not resealable and needs to be replaced if you open it up. I believe there's two level sensors, and I'm not sure which one needs fixing. If both seals ends up leaking and needs replacing, I don't want to wait for a week while the car smells of gas.
I had the same problem. Some additional tests besides tapping the pump is putting power in reversed manner. Put a + on the - and vice versa. The pump will turn the other way around. If that still doesn't get the pump alive you could try 24volt on the pump for a very brief moment. If the tests as described above don't help you'll have to walk home. 😁
The audi TT is a 2 seater. Your video showed you removing back seat? Our fuel rail psi goes to zero after about 5 seconds key on engine off. How do you access the fuel pump? Thank You 2008 Audi TT
Buddy ur video was class massive help and it will save me a few pennies... Do u k ow what pumps can be ran in a tt... Example would golf mk5 or any other cars a could maybe break 1 off... But again thanks for the video
@@aaanton11 am having major issues with this pump patter.... Could u tell me what pump and sender unit a can buy for 1 8 225 quatro apart from going to audi its self criminal charges should be Brough against them for there prices
just had breakdown on 8k miles tt 1.8 tfsi, aa man on his computer error was the fuel pump, on the mk 2 cab is it more difficult to do great vid my the way
The system will self bleed, you need to probe the wires at the base of the plug with the plug connected, on volts, you are looking for 12v feed and 0v earth, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Great Job, I love my american cars /trucks more. But Japanese and European folks make it allot easier to access the pumps than American cars where you got to drop the tank.
What if this is all the case, my car sounds like it wants to start but just can’t. Fuel pump does sound off signaling it is priming. Car still will not start. I’ve changed the spark plugs and added heat and octane boost. It just won’t start and I don’t know why!
Audi TT Mk1 Roadster 2000 stalling issues - CCM (ECU) / fuel pump module / or other..? 10 - 12 days ago: A serious UK rainy period and I note my drainage is working too great. I sort that out, test it and the drainage is back on track (I haven't dried around the back of the boot area). N.B. My CD player has suddenly stopped playing but the stereo is fine? About 6 days later, I'm driving the car and it cuts out and stalls. I re-start and it drives (but stalls again about 20 mins later). I re-start and it gets me home. The next morning the battery is flat and I jump start the car. It stalls 5 times en route to my destination and another 4 times halfway to my home - until the car refuses to start and just goes dead*. N.B. The time between stalling was shorter and shorter each time. * At this point I'm just thinking I have a duff battery or alternator is on its way out. I buy a new battery as a security. A mechanic comes out and identifies the old battery is fine (61% charge / 78% health) and the alternator and mass air filter have no issues! I have a car that idles happily, but over 4000 revs quickly cuts out and then eventually dies - to the point the battery appears flat and the alternator won't work!' My mechanic thinks the CCM is the problem with the most recent fault code stating 'intermittent comunication' (I assume from the CCM).* *N.B. My online forum research also revealed a corroded fuel pump module can cause almost the exact problems I detail - esp. as the rest of the car (via the CCM) is functioning as before / the car acts like it's running out of petrol before continually stalling / eventually dying. Basically, what would cause a battery and alternator not to work if they both don't have an issue? Surely once the car has started the alternator should just keep the battery charging ? (but it doesn't as, again, my car eventually dies as the CCM appears to shut down completely). Sorry this appears a bit of a novel but it's a full account of what has lead to this point. Any answers / advice, good people?
@@aaanton11 Hey champ. This may be useful for some out there (I just posted it on a Audi forum): In retrospect, I'm disappointed with my mobile mechanic callout, as he had more than enough time to do checks on my fuel pump (given obvious points made about driving issues due to not enough fuel appearing to getting through). It was all; ' send the CCM off to a his specialist ECU repair contact' - an often expensive route route I'd avoided previously. [ i.e. three years ago took my water / slight corrosion damaged CCM (ECU) to a local laptop repairer. Over 20 mins a bit of soldering and me being ONLY £20 lighter and I had 95% of my car's elctronic functionality back (the door lock syncing / alarm / hazards was still an intermittent issue). Quotes wre form £200 to just send it away - no guarantees to spending over well over £1000 with problems that could still be had trying to initialise my car keys! ]. Back to current: Two days ago, my car had a hairdryer in the rear for an hour and my CD player started working. Yesterday, I decided to test leaving the car to idle for 20 mins and see whether it would cut out. It stayed idling (bear in mind my stalling / fuel issues came under higher driving revs). Still, interesting it didn't cut out and good the [new] battery was now charging. A delay in getting a new fuel filter meant trying a few more tests. Getting into my car, I noted the weather has been so damp / rainy (and it has just been sat there) that I could really smell the damp. With no access to a dehumidifier, I decided an *mid -level power * electric heater would suffice over a couple of hours. Afterwards, I test my previously 'dead' windscreen washer pump... and a wash of normal spray comes out! I listen out for my fuel pump priming (as some videos advised) and that's engaging too! Plus, my CD player is once again fully operational (the washer pump and CD player weren't working before the drying). The above seems to suggest the only remaining issue is the fuel filter issue. It's now clear damp caused some mild havoc with my CCM and car earth points (as you suggested: ) Bottom line: Everything is moving in the right direction and my previous electronic functionality is back. It'll be interesting to what happens on a short test drive tomorrow (as I was down to 1/4 mile drive before the car would cut out !).
Quite a good description but you fail to mention that there’s a pipe with a fitting that pushes into a slot down the side of the sender. Unless you remove this with the sender still in the tank, you won’t get the sender unit out. Refitting this to the new sender is a nightmare. This is a flipping fiddly job.
@@aaanton11 The pipe and its fitting removal/reassembly is the really fiddly bit. Your description of how to release fuel line and electrical connectors was great.
Very well explained. Doesn’t get better than that. Kind regards.
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
That is brilliant!! Absolutely the most complete tutorial about the fuel pump on Audi TT I've found on the net.
The only things you forget to precise is that the model you consider in this video, is the Audi TT 225HP Quattro.
Thanks pavel for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻
Going by the picture of the engine, its not the 225 one, looks like the 150 or 180 bhp one
Thanks mate. The hammer trick proved it was the pump, car started. need to buy a pump and fit.
Good diagnosis you got there.
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Hi ! If you please don’t mind explaining me how you did it i am in the same situation and I’m not sure if I’m doing it right
Saved me so much money you’re my new favorite mechanic
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Hey mate thanks so much for this video! Helped me fix my girlfriends TT which was stuck in the parking garage.
Be careful choosing the right pump
The Quattro is different to the FWD.
Thanks for the tip! & Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Is there a pre filter on that fuel pump too inside the tank. Took my TT for a spin and noticed a little bit of hesitation. I’ve changed all filters and changed oils in the TT
only a plastic sock on some models, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
It's much Harder by a Roadster, but you does a good Job. Thanks
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Ive watched the video, its good and on point, but what if I want to just diagnose the existing fuel pump instead of replacing the whole unit? What am I looking to clean inside? Also my one of the plastic got stuck inside the black plug.. will I have to replace the whole thing now? Or just the top cap?
its easer to replace the sender unit, it will come with a new plug, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Hello mate!
My TT wouldn’t start but after a few knocks on the fuel pump as described it works perfectly again. Even primes when you turn on the ignition. Still needs replacement? Or am I good to go?
It’s your call, there is a possibility it might stick again, but I have known them to last years only sticking once, thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Top man 🥰 thanks for the easy to follow tutorial 😊
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Hello sir, I’m having an issue with my TT that I think may be the pump but am unsure. She fires up and drives at low revs, NOT in boost, just fine, but when I try to get on it at all, it sputters, and according to my aftermarket air/fuel ratio gauge, is running very lean while it sputters. Does this seem more like a broken fuel pump, or faulty injectors?
You will need to check fuel pressure, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 thank you! I have a fuel pressure gauge, it reads 3.8 bar on the nose. I replaced my fuel filter yesterday and it had little effect. I’m going to change the injectors tomorrow hopefully!
Thank you for your help. My pump just went out. Thanks againFor your help.
Glad it helped, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Hi ! Great video thank you so much ! I have this issue now and i had to left my car far away stranded , I’ll be back in the morning and try this hammer trick just to get it back but I’m not sure how to do it right should I hit it with the hammer before taking the screws out of the tank lid where the pump is ? Thanks again !! If anyone knows too please help❤
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Thanks from Perth Western Australia , had mine running in a jiffy! Replaced pump, swirl pot,($160) came as unit, complete in Australia looked about 650-750. Even liked your bit on the Audi electrical clips, if this is how you make videos make more cause in shaw you will get the views! Cheers Matt.
Thanks Matt for the great comments Merry Christmas 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Thank you so much for this video. The hammer tap worked and it took less than five minutes.
Glad it helped, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 and it went again.
Thank you, very well explained and clear, makes it easy to do your own work, I will watch more of yours for sure
Awesome, thank you! Thanks Justin for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Hi i know this is nothing to do with the sender unit but every time i take off my petrol cap on the audi tt mk1 bam air always comes out do you have any thoughts cheers
Sounds like the tank vent or evap might have an issue, if it runs fine don't worry wont harm anything, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Excellent video. Fixed my non starting tt. Happy days.
Glad it helped, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Thanks for the video! My audi tt gas gauge is stoke on empty any tips on how to fix it?
Add Fuel, that usually works 😂, its easy to remove the sensor in the tank and check the resistance across the pins, if that's ok it will be the gauge, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Perfect Video! Great Details! Awesome Editing! Best Explanation About This! 😎🔨🔧
Thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻
Bloody brilliant, thanks 🤩
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Hi, my old TT has a few electrical issues 1 tank shows empty tho full 2 temp gauge reads over heating if you re start the car it reads cold 3 radios not working or the electric seats relays???
oh no, what a pain,Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Very nice video for us not so sharp DIY'ers. He should do a video on how the US political system works so we can understand it much better. Thanks again from Phoenix, AZ
I know a bloke called Donald, he has all the answers do you want his number 😂, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
This has just absolutely saved me from a sticky situation stuck in a car park, top bloke
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Love Big Lez! Shout out to Sassy! Glad you got out of your sticky situation 👍
Hi what is the black pipe with cream plastic thing with hook on for? Should it be hooked on something
Not sure what you are describing, is it a part of the sender unit, or attached to the vehicle fuel lines? Thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
My tt, USA, has two. Which one is the primary, and should I hear both prime?
the one on the right is the pump to the front, the other is a levelling pump, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Just tried to start mine after it had been sitting, and I did not hear that recognizable "whir" when I turn the key. The back seat's already off, so I definitely think it's a seized fuel pump. I'll check the fuse first just in case.
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Entertaining and informative, exactly what you need in these videos!! Cheers
Thanks James for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Hiya, I have a 2003 A3 1.8T Quattro which won't start. All signs point to the fuel pump, but we're struggling to get the pump out, it seems to be attached to something. Are we doing something wrong?
Give it a bash!! it should come out, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Spot on! Well explained details. Thanks for your video.
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Good video mate
Glad you enjoyed Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Is the fuel pump compatible between the 1.8t tt and the 1.8t tt Quattro?
I would think so, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Is it important to have a full fuel tank when replacing? Seems that it might be to reduce the amount of tank fumes.
you make a fantastic point, but no!, if the tank is full the fuel will spill out when you remove the sender, the lower level the easer the job.Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 Thanks for the input. I have a small fan I'll use to blow air over the area where I'll be working for the fuel pump replacement in my wife's 2003 Audi TT … just for mental comfort purposes, of course .
Thank you! Il try this today.
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Cool bro thanks for helping me to fix my tt 👌😎
No problem 👍 Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Thanks. Only need to know how to fix the fuel level sensor and needed some instructions how to remove the fuel pump. This vid helps.
Thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11
Forgot to mention one thing. There's suppose to be a gasket that seals of the pump, right? You didn't have petrol smells or leak, did you? I've read the gaskets is not resealable and needs to be replaced if you open it up.
I believe there's two level sensors, and I'm not sure which one needs fixing. If both seals ends up leaking and needs replacing, I don't want to wait for a week while the car smells of gas.
The seals just go back with no issues 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Clear and precise
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
I've discovered that with the Quattro TT, there's a few more things to unhook inside the tank. Not as easy as on the fwd.
Thanks for the great information👍🏻👍🏻🛠
What's under the other inspection plate on the other side?
The other side of the tank if its a Quattro Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
I had the same problem.
Some additional tests besides tapping the pump is putting power in reversed manner. Put a + on the - and vice versa. The pump will turn the other way around.
If that still doesn't get the pump alive you could try 24volt on the pump for a very brief moment.
If the tests as described above don't help you'll have to walk home. 😁
Thanks for the great information 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
The audi TT is a 2 seater. Your video showed you removing back seat? Our fuel rail psi goes to zero after about 5 seconds key on engine off. How do you access the fuel pump?
Thank You
2008 Audi TT
The coupe model has back seats mate. Only three roadsters is a 2 seater
I believe its behind the plastic trim, then the same process Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Great video, really helped me with my mk1 TT thanks
Thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks. I imagine the Roadster model is quite more difficult to do!
It is! Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Brilliant, thank you! Subscribed
Welcome aboard!, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
How hard is it to change the sender unit on these mate?
Same as the pump as in the video. Thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 does the sender unit remove from the fuel pump assembly? It's just my sender that's gone and they sell just the sender's on eurocarparts
Absolutely great info going to to it a try today👍
Thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Buddy ur video was class massive help and it will save me a few pennies... Do u k ow what pumps can be ran in a tt... Example would golf mk5 or any other cars a could maybe break 1 off... But again thanks for the video
Some of the fittings might be different, thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11... Ur spot on bud needs to be a pump from tt.... Merci 👍👊
@@aaanton11 am having major issues with this pump patter.... Could u tell me what pump and sender unit a can buy for 1 8 225 quatro apart from going to audi its self criminal charges should be Brough against them for there prices
just had breakdown on 8k miles tt 1.8 tfsi, aa man on his computer error was the fuel pump, on the mk 2 cab is it more difficult to do great vid my the way
Thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks m8! U saved my Friday!
Thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
How exactly to I test the connection plug with a multimeter? Also how do I bleed the air out of the fuel lines when I'm done?
The system will self bleed, you need to probe the wires at the base of the plug with the plug connected, on volts, you are looking for 12v feed and 0v earth, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 hey what's up man so I just got around to messing with it, I'm getting 14.1 positive and -14.1 on the negative
well advice great clear explanation.
Thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻
Great Job, I love my american cars /trucks more. But Japanese and European folks make it allot easier to access the pumps than American cars where you got to drop the tank.
yes its a nice touch on this model,Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
What if this is all the case, my car sounds like it wants to start but just can’t. Fuel pump does sound off signaling it is priming. Car still will not start. I’ve changed the spark plugs and added heat and octane boost. It just won’t start and I don’t know why!
Were the spark plugs wet, or black?
Crankshaft sensor had the problem
Brilliant. Clear and concise 👍
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
This video is just one big "that's what she said". Fr though thank you for the info it helped a lot
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Audi TT Mk1 Roadster 2000 stalling issues - CCM (ECU) / fuel pump module / or other..?
10 - 12 days ago: A serious UK rainy period and I note my drainage is working too great. I sort that out, test it and the drainage is back on track (I haven't dried around the back of the boot area). N.B. My CD player has suddenly stopped playing but the stereo is fine? About 6 days later, I'm driving the car and it cuts out and stalls. I re-start and it drives (but stalls again about 20 mins later). I re-start and it gets me home.
The next morning the battery is flat and I jump start the car. It stalls 5 times en route to my destination and another 4 times halfway to my home - until the car refuses to start and just goes dead*. N.B. The time between stalling was shorter and shorter each time.
* At this point I'm just thinking I have a duff battery or alternator is on its way out. I buy a new battery as a security.
A mechanic comes out and identifies the old battery is fine (61% charge / 78% health) and the alternator and mass air filter have no issues! I have a car that idles happily, but over 4000 revs quickly cuts out and then eventually dies - to the point the battery appears flat and the alternator won't work!' My mechanic thinks the CCM is the problem with the most recent fault code stating 'intermittent comunication' (I assume from the CCM).*
*N.B. My online forum research also revealed a corroded fuel pump module can cause almost the exact problems I detail - esp. as the rest of the car (via the CCM) is functioning as before / the car acts like it's running out of petrol before continually stalling / eventually dying. Basically, what would cause a battery and alternator not to work if they both don't have an issue? Surely once the car has started the alternator should just keep the battery charging ? (but it doesn't as, again, my car eventually dies as the CCM appears to shut down completely).
Sorry this appears a bit of a novel but it's a full account of what has lead to this point. Any answers / advice, good people?
I would be checking the earth points in the damp areas, ie boot and inner sills, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 Thank you, champ : ) Anything you suspect...?
@@aaanton11 Hey champ. This may be useful for some out there (I just posted it on a Audi forum):
In retrospect, I'm disappointed with my mobile mechanic callout, as he had more than enough time to do checks on my fuel pump (given obvious points made about driving issues due to not enough fuel appearing to getting through). It was all; ' send the CCM off to a his specialist ECU repair contact' - an often expensive route route I'd avoided previously. [ i.e. three years ago took my water / slight corrosion damaged CCM (ECU) to a local laptop repairer. Over 20 mins a bit of soldering and me being ONLY £20 lighter and I had 95% of my car's elctronic functionality back (the door lock syncing / alarm / hazards was still an intermittent issue). Quotes wre form £200 to just send it away - no guarantees to spending over well over £1000 with problems that could still be had trying to initialise my car keys! ].
Back to current: Two days ago, my car had a hairdryer in the rear for an hour and my CD player started working. Yesterday, I decided to test leaving the car to idle for 20 mins and see whether it would cut out. It stayed idling (bear in mind my stalling / fuel issues came under higher driving revs). Still, interesting it didn't cut out and good the [new] battery was now charging.
A delay in getting a new fuel filter meant trying a few more tests. Getting into my car, I noted the weather has been so damp / rainy (and it has just been sat there) that I could really smell the damp. With no access to a dehumidifier, I decided an *mid -level power * electric heater would suffice over a couple of hours. Afterwards, I test my previously 'dead' windscreen washer pump... and a wash of normal spray comes out! I listen out for my fuel pump priming (as some videos advised) and that's engaging too! Plus, my CD player is once again fully operational (the washer pump and CD player weren't working before the drying).
The above seems to suggest the only remaining issue is the fuel filter issue. It's now clear damp caused some mild havoc with my CCM and car earth points (as you suggested: )
Bottom line: Everything is moving in the right direction and my previous electronic functionality is back. It'll be interesting to what happens on a short test drive tomorrow (as I was down to 1/4 mile drive before the car would cut out !).
No worries 😊
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Thanks for speaking plain english 😉
My pleasure! Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Quite a good description but you fail to mention that there’s a pipe with a fitting that pushes into a slot down the side of the sender. Unless you remove this with the sender still in the tank, you won’t get the sender unit out. Refitting this to the new sender is a nightmare. This is a flipping fiddly job.
Thanks for the great information👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 The pipe and its fitting removal/reassembly is the really fiddly bit. Your description of how to release fuel line and electrical connectors was great.
Mine has done the same il put it in garage im not touching it
😂 Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
There isn't any rear seat on TT convertible. Definitely harder to get at.
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
My quattro has the clip but i can't see how it attaches
You hav to lift the clip like in the video, try with a screwdriver if you can't lift it with your fingers, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 I broke my clip and I’m not having a good time
Knock knock
Tap tap 👍🏻👍🏻😂
@@aaanton11 no!
Who’s there?