Testing Metric Pattern Drafting Systems - Bodice Slopers Round Two
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video, I continue my experimentation with different pattern drafting systems. Today I will be working with two metric systems, Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi and Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich. This video is great for anyone who wants to see how these two different systems hold up against one another. You will see me go through the whole process from flat drafting my patterns, stitching mock-ups and then discussing the fit of the two slopers.
Also sorry for the weird blurriness at parts! My camera had a hard time focusing on the paper.
0:00-2:24 Intro
2:24-12:12 Drafting the patterns
2:12-12:29 Making the Mockups
12:29-15:34 Fitting
15:34-15:51 Final Thoughts
★ Want to see more? Follow me! ★
Instagram: / foleydressed
Twitch: / foleydressed
Tik Tok: / foleydressed
★ Want to support me further? ★
Buy me a spool of thread on Kofi
ko-fi.com/foleydressed
★ Books in this Video ★
Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi
amzn.to/3pxrz7c
Metric Patterncutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich
amzn.to/3jt9P94
★ Tools I Use ★
Sewing Shears: amzn.to/3C8hlhc
Pinking Shears: amzn.to/3jsIgwI
Snips: amzn.to/3aZxmKi
Overlocker: amzn.to/3b31dla
Tailors Chalk: amzn.to/2ZbNaqS
Fabric Markers: amzn.to/3Bb3Iw9
Frixion Pens: amzn.to/3jv4e2b
Pins: amzn.to/3b72yqU
Needles amzn.to/3pt4cM1
Pattern Paper amzn.to/3B6gX1a
Pattern Notcher amzn.to/3C9YIt7
Iron amzn.to/3C8lGks
Tailor’s Ham amzn.to/3m5GZO7
Tailor’s Clapper amzn.to/3ndpEly
Camera amzn.to/2XzCaD0
Microphone amzn.to/3B0rA5K - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Also I know that I mispronounced Aldrich about half of the time 😅 My apologies, it annoyed me too when I was editing 😂
It's so good to see a review of patterns in metric which is sooo helpful for us Europeans out here 😅 thank you for a really helpful video and series!
I’m so glad it was helpful! 😊
@@FoleyDressed 😂
For those preferring the imperial system over the metric one, or the other way around, just get a measuring tape with both systems, one on each side of the tape. It instantly translates the measurement without having to calculate.
Thank you so much, I am really enjoying this series. I am excited to start pattern drafting and it was great to see these metric systems, thanks again.
After watching this video and seeing how yours turned out, you inspired me to test it out and I’m pleased to say it came out pretty good, with only minor adjustments. Thanks for this!!
Excited to watch this later! 🤩
I hope you post more bodice drafting videos books between systems!! I’d love to hear about how your system you use to develop your patterns
Love this series so much!!!
I’m so glad you are enjoying it!
This series is so good for my sewing book addiction 😆 love seeing the comparisons of each method and their results!
Im so glad you like the videos!
Thanks for your sharing metric patterns.
Thank you for the comparasions. I started with the Vogue sloper and Norma Hollen's book Pattern Making by the Flat Pattern Method. It doesn't cover much about fitting. Which is a not a good thing for the beginner. More recently, I've been using the tutorials from Christopher Satorial on TH-cam. Its very clear method drafting the sloper and a few options. Please keep creating these videos as you are good presenter and the information is very useful.
Thanks, I enjoyed watching this. So interesting! The Aldridge method looked much more user friendly, but the Japanese sloper looked like it fit your body type better. Just needed some tweaking around the neck.
Well done!
Thank you so much! I'm so glad you enjoyed the video!
I love this series! My favourite drafting system is from The Costume Technician's Handbook (possibly because almost everything I sew is costume).
Thank you so much! I will have to check that system out!
Thank you so much for testing the Bunka system
Of course! Happy to do it!
Please make more videos! Especially more on books for drafting other things and children’s clothes would be amazing.
I shift back-and-forth between metric in inches using measuring tapes and rulers that have both and I have realized that it doesn’t matter which one I use. I can measure myself in inches and then do the formulas and simply Use my metric Measure for the ease because it may be different numbers but it’s the same measurements.
I first learned pattern drafting with "Suzy Furrer" (Apparel arts production/craftsy), and her bodice sloper method is outstanding, the fit is impeccable. The armhole shouldn't be so tight considering that it is a "custom made sloper". The side length, cross front/back should be taken in consideration in the draft... I also tried DP Studio method and Helen Joseph Armstrong which are both great but Suzy's fit is the best fit for me...
I also use her method! Though the problem is that the charts she gives are not really useful for larger cup sizes, nor do the “industry standard” measurements account for top heavy people, hence why I decided not to get her book.
I’m still looking for a method I’m 100% comfortable with, but I don’t want to spend too much on books only to realise the system doesn’t appeal to me. The slopers Sage shows in her videos are Imho way too loose. I disagree with the fact slopers should have ease, they should be adjusted to the drafter’s preferences. Alas, some systems don’t work if you don’t add the ease they expect you to add, which is odd to me as no ease amount should ever be compulsory (except for very small amounts such as 6 mm) 🤷🏻♂️.
Great video! I want to draft my first bodice block (not sure of nomenclature - bodice block or bodice sloper?). I have drafted one skirt block but I do not know what system was used since it was a UTube video. Which of the 4 systems - or other book - would you recommend? Many thanks!
I love this series and content! ❤️😍 Comparing diff systems in pattern drafting. But I would like to ask what is the system you are using the most often or your favorite to use?! I hope you also do a tutorial of that pattern making. 😊😊
Thank you! I actually usually drape! So this series is very much a fact finding mission for me. But in the process I do hope to find a favorite as I dont currently have one that I always gravitate towards!
Any system advice for non hourglass body shapes to begin their drafting journey? Loving your channel!
thank you!
This is a great series! Other books I have that would be fun to try are the drafting books by Connie Crawford and the one by Lucia Mors De Castro. There are so many pattern drafting books out there, it’s so hard to know what to pick! Thank you for doing this and I’m happy I ran across your channel!
I will definietly have to check those out! Im glad you are enjoying the videos!
@@FoleyDressed the book by De Castro is particularly interesting to me as it’s based on the system developed by Müller & Sohn Munchen. Anyway, I look forward to seeing your other drafts and final makes from the patterns!
@@abeginnersneedle Thats awesome! I have been wanting to check out the Müller & Sohn system as well!
I love your channel and this series on these books. They are so helpful, I just subscribed to your channel.
Can you please do in the future the same series but with Antonio Donnano Books?
That would be awesome,
Keep the good work!👍🏼🤩
Greetings from the Netherlands 🇳🇱✌🏼
Thank you so much! I have a working list of pattern drafting books that people reccomend to me and I will definitely add that one to the list!
Hi! Love this series :) I'm currently testing the Aldrich system and this has been very helpful. I'm wondering if you could do a video about what to do after you have found a good base bodice sloper, like how to turn it into a an actual shirt.
Thank you so much! I am so glad you are enjoying the videos. I will definitely be working through the process in future videos!
Yes!!! This is what I'm struggling with as a total beginner! Or if you could recommend any books about this?
Hi, thank you soo much for this amazing content. I never found anything like this on youtube before.Im really enjoyng! I recently did the bodice from pattern magic and had the same issues as you, the book miss the waist dart formula, but i found it on a video: (B/2 +6cm) - (W/2 +3cm). It didnt fit soo well on my dummy, problably because the brazilian body type is different and we dont need the shoulder back dart. I would love to see you experiment with a brazilian or italian systems.
I’m so glad you enjoy the series! It is really fun to do! I would love to do an Italian or a Brazilian system in the future. Do you have any in particular you think I should try?
@@FoleyDressed There is a book called "Modelagem Plana Feminina" by Stefania Rosa from Editora Senac. The bodice is very diferrent from the ones you already did and i just discovery the "La Tecnina dei modelli" from IKON EDITRICE. I would love to see what you have to say about this ones ;)
I will definietly have to check those books out and see if I can get my hands on them!
the nakamichi looks very elegant
I really appreciate this series! Well done! What do you think of the Halsam Dressmaking system, if you have tried it?
We use the Aldrich book as our main textbook in my fashion design program here in New Zealand.
I love hearing how these books are used in different settings! Thanks for sharing!
Please share your experience which one Bodic block fit best
Greate thank you
Do you have as close as possible to a foolproof drafting method? I've bought a few books that have terrible blocks/slopers. Especially the men's books. I trained in pattern making but not drafting blocks. I want to make my own cloths and can't without drafting my own blocks. I'd appreciate any help or suggestions. Thank you.
How snug should the close-fitting sloper be? I am working with the Aldrich. I'd like to see across the back when you cross your arms and much freedom of movement this sloper is supposed to provide compared to the easy fit.
Sounds good. What book you would suggest for a biggeneror one who has l some experience
Hi , very informative video. I have been doing muslin fittings for several years now . I want to start doing fittings on the regular fashion fabric without doing muslin first. Can you recommend some steps that would enable me to do a fitting on the regular fabric?
I do a fittings with muslin. I know it takes extra time to construct but I think it is best to perfect your pattern before you cut out of your fashion fabric. However if you really want to do fitting with your fashion fabric I would leave plenty of seam allowance to make adjustments if needed!
Just found your channel!! 😱 Subbed!!!!💕
Yay! Thank you!
Wow! This is awesome. Do you do mens blocks? I have done many different methods and compare fit also. I recently purchased Pattern cutting for Menswear, second edition by Gareth Kershaw. It uses one block for all styles in the book. Its basically a flat pattern block. Well do you think I can get the sleeve back pitch point to match the back pitch point on the body section. Front pitch point is fine. I've drafted the block several times, altered their calculations but its always way out. They claim this booked is used in schools around the world. It doesn't have good reviews online for such a glossy expensive book. If the block doesn't work how can any of the pattern development in the book work. It would be awesome if you reviewed this book.
What a wonderfully helpful series!
If it's okay to make a suggestion, l'd love to hear your opinion on Antonio Donnanno's book ' Fashion Patternmaking Technics'?
Coincidentally I've been looking at all the books you've trialled sofar as well as this book. I think it's originally an Italian book/system which could be an interesting angle.
Also will you be making a summary at the end of the series?
Thank you so much for making these videos !!! :)
Ps. Another Italian patternmaking book i've seen is 'Il modellismo' (it's written simultanuasly in english and Italian) by Fernado Burgo (i heard it is used at university level in italy) but it's too expensive for me.
Those books sound great, I love getting reccomendations for other pattern drafting books to look at. I will definietly check those out. I will most likely be doing a summary at the end of the series but I am getting so many great reccomendations that I think this series will be going on for awhile. I am still hoping to find a system I love the most and I will definietly let everyone know when I have found it! I am so glad you are enjoying the videos!
I tried to understand the dart diagram and percentage table but I struggled, can you help me with it ?
Thanks.
I learned with the Aldrich pattern book, but we were part of a GCSE level course from age 14 to 16.
Hi can I ask you if you know more books for creative pattern drafting?
Thanks for the series. What is your opinion about the books from Antonio Donnanno? Is this a sound drafting method for bodice slopers?
I will have to give that system a try and let you know!!
One that you are showing right now interests me but don’t know which book it is and how to order.
What is a dart value chart? On which page is it please ?
Have you tried Ernestine Kopp system?
So are these two books metric meaning in inches
Thanks for you videos, they are very helpful.
So until now, could u share which method u like the most?
Im glad that you have enjoyed them. Even though is the most complicated so far I think the Dennic Chunman Lo system has the best fit for all of the garments I have tried with it so far.
@@FoleyDressed thanks for your recommendation, hope u will have a tutorial video using that method
I think you need to consider the fabric when thinking of the fit as well.
Absolutely! It is always best to use a fabric as close to your fashion fabric when making a mock up.
Can you do a video where you draft a block instead of speeding up the Drafting process. Thank you.
Can someone please explain what's the main difference between
Normal pattern making & metric pattern cutting :0
You can use the flat pattern making or draping methods to make your patterns. This video demonstrates flat patternmaking in metrics which uses cm as a unit of measurement. The other unit of measurement is the imperial system which uses inches.
@@reemapawa8901 thx❤ yet cms and inches make that much difference?
Second sloper has many issues, wrong location of the shoulder seam one of them, as a result -the front/back is unbalanced. Personally, not a fan of Aldrich drafting. My favorite is German Muller system
I am kinda dumb. Please, tell me where I can find good tutorial how to draft mens trousers/pant sloper. I will be owe you forever.
Somehow I am still not able to draft the pattern correctly. 😭
I’m so sorry you are having trouble! Hang in there, it is tough at first by you will get the hang of it. 😊
There is no need to covert inches to metric or vice versa, use a metric tape measure or a metric and inch tape measurement. The numbers are different the result is the same.
I’m sorry but what’s the point of measuring in imperial and converting to metric? Wouldn’t you rather take the measure in metric, otherwise who knows what accuracy you’re loosing
Good question. The reason I converted measurements from imperial to metric is because I already had a pre-existing measurement sheet with all necessary measurements in imperial (as that is what I usually work in). Fortunately because of the internet, it is extremely fast, easy, and accurate to transfer inches into centimeters and vice versa. Much faster to just convert as opposed to re-taking the measurements. However if I were to take someone else's measurements knowing that I was going to use a metric pattern drafting system I would certainly just take the measurements in metric.
Нос надо переделать!
In my country everyone using metric measurements. Inches are horrible IMO. I cant use inches.
I like Natalie Bray method more
I will have to give that one a try!!
I have impression that you are reading ...
your voice has ups and downs.
Sometimes no pause.