How to Draft Simplicity 1832 // Patterning Pop Quiz
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2022
- Today I'm taking on a challenge from one of you, drafting Simplicity 1832 from 1946! This 1940's dress has some gathering as well as princess seams, or does it? Well for once at least it doesn't have a waist seam. Today I'll be showing how I would draft this design and putting together a quick mock up as a proof of concept so you can see how it would go together.
The original pattern image: vintagepatterns.fandom.com/wi...
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First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
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Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I love when you draft patterns, I could watch you do this all day. I always learn a lot! Thank you!
Thank you Amelia! I honestly want to figure out a way to live stream pattern drafting, then I really could do a few hours and even take requests 😂
This is super great! I love seeing you manipulate fullness and style lines. It really gives me the courage to trace a copy of my block and just go at it to see what sort of designs I can make.
Just want to say you got this! When they posted about making your own block about a year ago it sparked my interest and IVE NEVER LOOKED BACK!
It is so much fun to have control of the way your block fits you and (therefore) the way your patterns fit. It's fun to play around with various designs and see what works and what doesn't. Good luck!!! 👍🏾👍🏾
@@alyssajennings8668 yes!! Love this! And I totally agree with you: Do it, Kitanne, you got this!
Thank you! That's the best thing, there are no limits to what you can play around with, create away!
This is the content I want, and I can't ever find videos of pattern drafting the way you do it. Only you make videos like this. I want to see the drafting process using a block as a base, and I want to see ALL the designs being drafted. LOL. Truly you're the only person I've found doing this. Are there others? Does anyone have any channel recommendations?
No everyone else is trying to sell patterns. Her Patreon has tons of pattern drafting videos! Its great
Not a YT channel, but The Shapes of Fabric has similar tutorials as well as classes. Hers can be a little more complicated, and she assumes you already know the basics of fabric manipulation.
I want to say there's... two(?) other people on YT doing anything similar with pattern drafting and pattern blocks (but I can't remember their names or anything else about the main content they create 😅🤦) I *do* remember seeing them mentioned in the comments on one of Bianca's pattern block or pattern drafting videos, for what limited help that is.
Thank you Amelia!
This is exactly what I always try to play out in my head when I look at a pattern or even a finished piece of clothing in a store and I’m like "I bet I know/could figure out how this is made." So this was fun! If you feel like it, I think this could be great as a series! Thank you!
Thank you Maike!
My mother had a dress in this style which she wore with an undergarment that was a bra-attached-to-a-girdle that went almost to her knees. She was a tiny, thin little lady, but there was no chance that there would be any indication that she might be human under that dress! Hugging her was like embracing a suit of armour, but her hugs were wonderful just the same!
The Montgomery Wards catalogs I collect have pages of these, they often straight up call them corsets 😅✨ They have boning and sometimes steel busks, so they were really!
Your mastery of creating patterns with just a look at an example is unbelievable! I love watching you work. Thank you!
Thank you Suzanne!
You are really a great and generous teacher! I used to shy away from darts and just trust the patterns for them. Pattern making is now like a fun game for me after I have watched your videos. You also give away your tips and tricks for free. Thank you so much for your work and effort! 💪
I'm guessing you've already seen her video that's all about dart manipulation, but on the very slim chance you haven't: she has a video that's all about dart manipulation! 🤩 I learn so much about darts just watching the patterning videos, but that dart video 🤯
@@moxiebombshell Yes, I did watch it the moment I got the notification. I was dumbfounded on how easy it is on the basic blocks. Just like her, I now tend to just break down the designs behind dresses on mannequins in my head and then say "I can sew that". 🥰
Thank you Iris!
I'm glad you use your x-ray vision powers for good! Thank you again for helping us understand how to draft patterns and how to break them down to what is actually going on. I often have issues understanding even when I have a completely new pattern. :P
Thank you Tanisha!
Just jumped in the bath and was looking for a great video to watch and relax with. Perfect bloody timing!!
What a cute dress style. I love watching pattern drafting, dart manipulation and recreating designs. It is so fascinating to see how it all works together.
Thank you!
It's fantastic! I looked up the pattern description on the vintage archive and you were bang on with the back princess seams, however they mention it flowing into waist pleats, which I'm guessing they used to deal with the extra curvies you were mentioning. I really need to find time to make my block so I can start practicing along with your videos :D
Released waist pleats at the back is probably a good way to handle a swayback.
May your pattern blocks make you giddy with delight!
@@janisi9262 They also could have gone the 1930's rout and have a box-pleat insert rectangle to create the back pleats?
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
@@stevezytveld6585 it looks like released waist pleats, vs box pleating, on the back at least. I haven’t opened it all up to read the directions as if Grandma P hated it, I can guarantee I will hate it also - at least as designed. Most patterns Grandma P did blocks to her size at least and peeking inside, the pieces look factory folded or very lightly handled. I’m guessing this was a present from Grandpa as he knew she adored pretty necklines vs one she picked out.
@@FlickiChicki Oh... I _adore_ the stories these patterns tell. The dress that she never got around to. Was it the cut of design, lack of time, lack of motivation, distracted by the big events of the world, a bad case of "life happening?",...
Do me a favour? Write her name and dates on the pattern - in pencil or fountain pen (ballpoint tends to bleed over time). And then add this year and your name, & note that it was factory folded. Give a provenance to an object and it just might survive a little longer.
As for the pattern, I suspect your right. On the upside they'll be enough fabric in the pattern piece to jazz it the way you want to. Released waist pleating is on my to-do list - sounds slightly complicated from where I stand. Agreed - the neckline is lovely.
I just really love this as a blouse! Cut it a little shorter, give it a little bit of floof in the "peplum" ... I'd wear it.
I've been on a mission to self-draft commercial patterns by eye for the past month or so, so this video was a godsend! Someone mentioned it already but you really do put out the best of this kind of content, Bianca!! 👏 thank you for your work! I'd love to see more!
I can't remember off the top of my head if she has a proper playlist of all her pattern drafting videos, but I know she's got quite a few videos like this. SO MANY great tips on how to translate an illustration to a functional pattern.
Thank you!
FYI, the ornate floral or scrollwork faceplates are from much earlier machines. Singer went all-in on the art deco flourishes in the fifties. My '56 99 (not a K because it was made in New Jersey) has the same super shiny, corrugated faceplate. Very elegant. ❤
Nice seeing you on Monday! I enjoy your videos so much that I bought a 99k. What a great machine. I see why you love yours so much.
Aw I'm glad you like it! I love mine ❤
This dress has lovely lines and is very flattering. Nice job!
Thank you Laurie!
I just discovered that my vintage Singer can back stitch. It took me a whole year to realise it
I love that you listen to your fans so much! It's so helpful that your always answering our questions and so kind that you take the time to walk us through these things. Thank you for being amazing and teaching us such wonderful things!
Thank you Kathy!
Always good to know that you use your powers for awesome. 🦋
I’m going to link another one for you to look at. It’s a McCalls vintage pattern from 1952 I’m told.
Just a heads up, it seems that TH-cam automatically deletes any post with a link. It's infuriating. It seems to be an automatic thing, too. 😖😭
@@moxiebombshell that’s fine I usually link through Pinterest because it’s easier but thank you. Good to know.
Holy Mole! I wan to draft this right now!!!
Thank you for the advice on sewing points, I have really struggled with this in the past.
Gosh I love that pattern! Really flattering.
Thank you!
Thank you, Bianca! I will totally be making this one!
The use of gathering darts came together perfectly!👏👏👏
Super!!! Yes recreate a vintage pattern again!!! 😍😍😍
Love how you do this no messing. Great design with a lot of possibilities
Thank you Janice!
Thanks so much for this! I’ve been looking for a dress to wear to one of the Noir City film fests. This could be made by adapting one of my Cashmerette dress bodices. It could also be fancied up for vintage or worn under a cardigan for a history bounding look. You do such great work.
Thank you Kitty!
Awesome, and i am also extremely mesmerized by your intro eye shadow :o
Thank you! The eye shadow is an iridescent color called Phoenix from Terra Moon's cosmetics ✨
I love this! Thank you so much for showing me how to see into the pattern and analyse it for darts, style lines etc. You really are opening up so many possibilities when you do this. It actually is beginning to seem much simpler! Much gratitude.
PS you're looking stunning today, btw.
Thank you Kaytie!
You are Super Crafty women. 😊😉What ever you make turns out wonderful. Can't wait when you make this dress in a nice fabric.
Thank you!
I was looking at that dress sketch thinking "hmm, how am I going to deal with the dart fullness?" and then you did it in two seconds and I was like "Wow, that was so easy!" Also, this design would be perfect for color blocking!
They pulled a tricky switch on this one with the non-fit controlling princess styleline!
The Pattern Detective 🕵️
The historian is on the case! 😂✨
Even a stiff muslin looks amazing. You have proved once again that I need to make my damn block and get with the program.
Thank you!
Your confidence moving darts and gathers around is amazing. I'm watching your videos and mustering up the courage to trace my block and try it myself.
Thank you Ilah!
You make it look so easy and sensible and then I get in front of my pattern and can’t remember any of it! :D
Hi, Thank you. I just love when you do your party tricks, aka your fantastic ability to see how things go together to make a fantastic dress. will never in a billion years need to do anything like this so I can just sit back and admire the master at work. Yours, Ann
Looks amazing! As for the faceplate yours is true to the machine. Its how you can easily tell which are from the 50s. The floral ones are from the older machines, thats the main difference.
Hi Evelyn, I'm new to sewing and interestingly my very first project was a shirred top for my mum. She loves it and often wears it to church on Sundays when the weather is hot; it's not that difficult to be fair. I love your channel, you inspired me to have a go at making clothes myself. I'm at that 50:50 stage; 50% works and fits, 50% is fit for the scraps box but was an amazing learning curve, good job I've found a cheap online supplier for fabric and the charity I support is able to sell the things I make out of the unsuccessful projects.
Fabulous!!! I SO appreciate all your videos ! The ones where you 'reproduce' a vintage style are especially fascinating! ♡♡♡
Thank you Rinae!
It makes a nice peplum blouse, too.
Lovely as always! ❤️
A very well constructed video tutorial. Thank you.
Thank you!
Lovely!
This is so great!!!
Lovely 😍
Lovely! Thx!
Love it. Pattern drafting is awesome!!
Love this quick demo!!
Love this! Thanks for another amazing video :)
Thank you!
Thank you for the tip showing how to sew a point! I'll have to remember to sew so far, clip into the point then sew the remainder! Will practice!
As always awesome content. Thank you!
Thank you for this tutorial!
THANK YOU for sharing this! Your mock-up length would make a cute blouse.
Thank you!
So, the "dart fullness as gathering" concept just finally clicked for me and now I have so many things to try 🤯
This was awesome! Thank you for making this video :)
Thank you Cat!
Wonderful
Looks great. Thanks.
Oau!Looks great!Thanks!
I always get such a rush of motivation after watching this style of video from you, thank you for taking the time to make them!
Thank you!
Thank you! 🥰
Brilliant. Thank you Bee : )
Thanks Bianca. Always fun to watch you do your magic!
Thank you Dannie!
Thank you for this pattern drafting, can we have more of these please Bianca, it is so flattering on you too.
✂️🧵💕😊
Thank you Lynn!
The filigree face plate came with the earlier version 99k that didn't have the reverse lever on it. It's very pretty!
You make it look like magic 😄
What a Delightful Surprise to see the posting of this video, after all, 'tis only Monday. 😉 Thank you whoever made such an awesome request! 😻 Thank you Bianca for the outstanding simplifying of the process for us, to replicate the same style. 😻 Yes, it is a delightful game many of us play when seeing a style in vintage. 😜 I noticed the shortened version just screams Fitted Jacket with a nice peplum. Just a thought. 😜 The drafting of this particular dress does remind me of the sleeveless top, you constructed about a month ago. 😻
Thank you Dolores! Unfortunately this isn't a style I would wear myself, I don't like anything even approaching and empire-ish waisted line on myself!
Wow. Many thanks for this vid. 😍
wonderful
Watching you draft pattens both educates me and is really calming. I think your channel is one of my happy places xx
Thank you Kayleigh!
Thanks for the lesson!
Awesome 🥰🥰
I love this!! I know what I'm seeing this weekend
Very informative ❤
It’s great! I like rewatching it a few times just to get it!
I love these types of videos. This weekend I plan to make an A-line skirt block for myself. Over the course of this next year, I plan to up my professional wardrobe with a themed "capsule" type wardrobe, where everything goes together with everything else. Skirts are the start, next would be a waistcoat/vest, and third would be pants. I plan to buy inexpensive men's dress shirts and modify them to fit. Once I'm comfy with the mods I plan to make, I may see if it is worth buying a more expensive shirt for better, more durable fabric. I want a professional wardrobe I can grow over the next couple of years, dressing for the promotion I want. Women's dress clothes nowadays aren't quite right, they either fit the shoulder or the chest, never both. A lot of the time the sleeves are 3/4 and not what you want with a suit jacket or properly professional look, so I'd have to modify them anyway.
You are just so talented!
I love it!
Thank you Liz!
Loved this pattern! Thank you
Thank you!
So cute! I think if I were to do this I would add a shoulder yoke and have the front gathers not so high up on the shoulders. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
Wow! This is amazing, I would love to see some more patterning! Thank you!
👏Thank you for a great lesson in patternmaking!
I have some patterns of this style. This is what I tend to gravity to the most. Thank you for showing how to do the point in the front. I always struggle with that. I will try it how you showed. 🙂🙂🙂
You are a marvel, Bianca! 😯 I wouldn't have a clue how to make such a fundamental change to a bodice block. Well, actually I don't even have a block yet, but you know what I'm saying...
As for shirring, I have just learned how to do that and honestly it's the easiest thing! I've literally just this morning finished making my fourth shirred dress for my granddaughters, so now they have one each. It's time consuming, and frustrating when the elastic thread on the bobbin runs out half way along a row ( but to my surprise it doesn't instantly unravel when that happens) but it's essentially just sewing a load of straight lines close together. Honestly, if you can do pattern drafting the way you do, you can totally ace shirring! Have a brilliant day x
Fabulous. Thankyou. I am so inspired!
Thank you Jenny!
This was perfect! I love princess seams. They hide alot of issues of the body. Plus I love the details the waist. Great job!!!
Thank you Melody!
It turned out so well.
Thank you Dani!
Ooh! This is a flattering design. Love it!
Thank you!
Oh my god more videos like this please!!!
Great video!
Thank you!
I really liked this kind of video. Great stuff!
Thank you!
Adore your dress designing videos. Really enjoy how you explain your process too. And I’m super glad that I can slow it down now and then because you pack so much information in!
Thank you Chris!
You are GIFTED Bianca!!🤯🤩🙌
Thank you Sandy!
You make this all look so easy! I know it's not and I appreciate your skill set and that you are gracious enough to share it with us.
Thank you Karen! I insist it is easy!! 😂
This channel is outstanding.
Thank you Amber!
Jersey, one of my favorite dresses was this cut, but the whole top part of the bodice was that rounded empire cut, with princess all way round, great in soft jersey. great on you! I prefer the 3/4 sleeve, but tulip or long looks good too.
What a happy Monday surprise, Bianca. As always, another great video that is so educational!
Thank you Thomas!
Beautiful! I can't wait to finish my blocks and start in on these sorts of projects.
Also, I have to mention that you have such a lovely confidence and comforting manner. Your intros and outros make me smile and your voice overs are very calming. I am learning a ton and am so grateful to have found your channel! 🖤
Thank you so much Jessica!
I love these drafting videos Bianca, I always learn so much, I struggle with matching those points so found this very helpful, thanks!
Thank you Vivienne!
I definitely thought those princess seams would've been used to control fullness at first glance!
Since finding your channel I've definitely found myself trying to reverse engineer vintage patterns from the illustrations. If I ever get round to making a properly fitting sloper I may be unstoppable
I've watched this about three times now. It gives me ideas (-- fevered dreams, actually, but never mind that.) Doing it up in white really does show off the details. Fantastic job! You make dart manipulation look so carefree and simple. (Warning: Like all sewing, Do Not Attempt When Tired.) Masterful job as usual.
Thank you Michelle! Darts and I are great friends! ✨