EPISODE 22 - REMOVING THE BODY FROM THE CHASSIS AND ONTO THE ROTISSERIE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- This episode marks a big step forward in the evolution of the wb ute build. Up until now it's been slow going due to distance and time, but now with the new rotisserie it's all about to change. This is also a monster episode so grab 1.5 beers and settle in!
Tools i used and links
Metal X cutting diamond blade from KYPER Diamond Tools
BUY METAL X BLADES HERE
bit.ly/2ZlFUUj
VISIT KYPER WEBSITE
kyper.com.au
Rossi ARC Welder
www.edisons.co...
Car Rotisserie
Dtm Trading
www.dtmtrading...
Get in touch:
/ barnesys_builds
Email - bunkaboy1@gmail.com
I have been watching your restoration from the start and thought it was about time I thanked you for doing it as I know how much work is involved in the production, editing and uploading. Appreciate it and I am really enjoying it. I bought a one owner WB ute, 6 cylinder with three on the tree and original 270,000klm last year. I have had the bench seat re upholstered, the bit of rust fixed and most of the car resprayed, keeping it as original as I can. Have been farming out the work as I'm a bit... older than you and haven't got the space. Have to smile though that with this episode you have nearly talked me into buying an arc welder, I have always put off but now might be the time. Thanks again great work!
Thanks Mark, I appreciate the thanks, ha yes the arch welder is a good tool to have when you need some brute force welds! Great to hear about the build and hope you enjoy it soon! Cheers
Love the vids. I am doing similar build on a RX2 and it’s great seeing you showing how things really happen (unlike some TH-camrs). I have had similar pain today Tig welding panels - just went through $100 of argon and did 1 kept blowing holes. Watching you vids gives me inspiration to keep going and not giving up.
Thanks, yeah i had similar issues at the start with gas flow and wire speed. I want to upgrade to a TIG machine, seems the way to go. cheers!
Just bought a rotisserie myself. Watching your video helped with connecting it to my car. Thank you. Very helpful video.
No worries mate! Good luck with the build.
I'm no pro, but you will get better welds if you bring the stick closer to you job. that will stop the arc from swaying all over the place and will give heaps smoother welds. I also find that being above the job and having the stick at a steeper angle helps heaps. Love this series and love seeing the wb coming to fruition. I've got 74 f100 I'm doing up at the moment and your vids have helped so much!
Thanks mate, I will give that a go, it's a fine balance with bringing in the stick while you moves sideways, glad the vids have helped with the F100. Cheers
Great series mate, I'm doing an Xy ute at the moment. I have no experience and am learning as I go. Also picking up some handy hints from your videos. I've recently got myself a hoist to make the job easier. Love being out in my shed. Keep up the great work and good luck with the rest of the build.
Thanks mate, appreciate the feedback, yeah a hoist is great, it comes in handy for lots of things, holding panels in place, or supporting to things while you work. Great investment, good luck with the xy!
Another great video and great job mate. A few comments:
1. Love the wheels and tyres you've thrown on it
2. Learning to Arc weld is a really valuable skill and will improve your Mig welding as well. Your off to a great start just practice and more practice. Soon you'll be grabbing the stick instead of Mig!!!
3. No way you'll trouble your mezzanine level with that small weight
4. Your unlikely to ever have the chassis available like that again, looks in great condition but some rust treatment or coating might be worth the effort
5. Don't dismiss your ability to rewire it mate when the time comes. You can do it easy and your community of subs will be here to help if need be.
Once again good on you for sharing this with us. Love the content, your doing great job mate.
Thanks Duncan, yes I am actually liking the arc welding, it's more brute Force which will be great around the property fixing gates, building etc I will keep at it until I can get smooth beads.
The wheels are the olddragways 5 spoke, a classic wheel for the model, they are in
average condition so will need to be replaced or restored.
It's great to hear the feedback as it does help a lot, it's getting harder and harder now so I will need all the help I can get from the community.
Thanks again mate
Looking good mate! Been following from the start as I'm also doing a wb.
Thanks mate, glad to hear your doing one up yourself, hope the vids help. Cheers
They help alot mate. Keep it up!
Barnesy your videos are top notch, you present and put them together very well and getting better, i would love to have that skill, maybe one day. your welding well hmmm, we all had to start some where i guess lol.
1. tack it together pull it off then weld it all up, (brace it where needed) hell of a lot easier.
2. your mig will weld that box together easier, faster and better.( roll of .8 gas less wire is what i use just so i save the gas for the panel work)
3. I agree with Lewis Flynn, wouldn't go the air bag suspension, 2k will turn into 6k, it will do your head in, engineering , insurance, to do it properly you will need to fabricate a hump in the back of your tray etc...good lowered suspension looks cool on these ute and you will have a better ride for it.put your money towards an ls2 or 3 , much better bang for your buck, IMO.
4. I like the way you have mounted it, job done and well done.
5. Again i agree with Flynn, be a good idea to have it in your budget to have a pro do the final blocking. If you do a good job on the body work, it should only take them a day to block it down and fix up any imperfections you may have missed and then have them paint it.
After all the hard work,and 100s of hrs, you'll end up spending a couple grand on paint, fans, filters lights materials etc, and a day or 2 building some sort of spray booth, and then stress it all goes wells. gut wrenching if it doesn't.
OR you give it to a pro and he rolls it into a controlled environment and does he 's thing, you come back at the end of the wk to see it glistening in the sun, its still all your hard work. for an extra few thousand dollars its worth it.
look forward to your next video
kind regards Mark
Thanks Mark, Yeah i agree the welding was pretty ordinary, it has held up though, and i have since run over it again to make sure it's strong enough. I tried the MIG and she doesn't have the grunt to get through, although i did not use .8 wire only .6. I have since got a hang of the ARC now and love ir. It will come really useful around the property for gates etc. While i agree with you about getting a professional to finish the body as it would get a superior result it's not part of the original objective with this build. Not only was the aim of this restoration to save a dying ute, but it was just as much a challenge to myself to teach myself new skills and see it entirely through myself. So that's why i will see the body work through and the paint and if it stuffs up then it's my fault and i sand it back and start again.
I agree with the suspension as well, just going to go with a simple lowered leaf spring with lowering blocks and lowered front springs and shocks.
Thanks again for the feedback and i will try and get another video up soon, not sure how these guys get 3 a week out!
Fair call on painting it yourself, it is very rewarding. And your right .6mm wire maybe be a little to small to weld 4-5mm steal,. I do use .8mm up to about 5mm keeping the heat in it building the weld, takes a little practice.
Car restoration shows pumping out cars... all lies, they lay on a nice paint job, put on new wheels and chrome with 10 guys working on it, big difference from what your doing to what they do, tarting up cars, covering all the problems, a bare metal resto repairing all rust with metal, body work and paint takes resto shops months and most restoration bills will cost you 50k + done properly.
Hey mate, there is only one trick to do nice welds ,be as comfortable as possible. Grab the handle with both hands and put your elbows on the inside of your hips or if your on the ground put your elbows on your thigh. If your welding something above hip height lay your weakest hand across and rest your wrist on top .look , I’m no expert but this really help me when I was just starting
Thanks mate, yeah it's definitely harder to see the electrode as it's so far away compared to MIG but I will try hat method next time, cheers.
Barnesy's Builds no problem, hopefully it’ll workout for you
Good day to you..very interesting. I'm trying to plan the removal of the body of a C126 (Coupe WDB 126) from the chassis. I'm a novice....I'm trying to figure out where the body bolts are. I just got the metal to build my rotisserie, but early days for me...Thanks...Bill
Nice, yeah im not familiar with Mercs so can't offer any advice. Good luck with the build.
With the plenum pulled apart that whole structual area could've warped or twisted when you lift the body. Love the shed. Cheers
That's why i went from the base, however the plenum chamber is still intact and welded to the tub and windscreen frames so structurally it is still very strong.
Hi Barnesy, I am a woman doing a build on a HK and don’t have a lot of experience in regards to rotisserie’s, I have brought one from DTM to and they referred me to watch your vids. So my question is can you put the car on the rotisserie with the chassis still attached? Or should I take it off the body? I didn’t really want to go that far.
I hope you get this and reply because I’ve noticed you did this video a few years ago by the look of it.
Cheers in advance and love your work.
Hey Kezza, yeah I'm still plodding along on the build so pretty good on the responses. Yeah take the body off the chassis first then mount the body to the rotisserie, it might sound like more work but if you have gone as far as to buy a rotisserie then your in it now so might as well keep going and do it thoroughly. Once the body is off the chassis you can wash it down, wire wheel it and kbs coat it as a bare minimum. You can also check all the rubbers, front end and suspension much easily this way. Once the body is on then maybe send it to the sand blasters on a trailer and get them to blast and expoxu it for you. Saves months of hard wire wheeling. Might cost 1500 but well worth it. Then once you get it back see all the rust areas order your repair panels from rare spares and crack open the welder and have some fun! Good luck and thanks for watching🤙
Already started the wire wheel very hard on the Back that’s why I got the rotisserie and your right I may as well go the hole hog, I won’t bore you with the details by it was meant to be a running car at the time and wasn’t, so I’m just itching to get it going lol
All good thanks for the advice it’s good to know.
great looking shed.. do yourself a favour and get some cig satincraft welding rods.. smooth welding. cheers
Thanks mate, actually they we're the other option but as I'm in a small town I was limited to only one choice, I will get them next time, cheers!
Why would he ? He can’t weld !!
Hey mate love the videos 👍🏻
Quick question, what size mount bolts do you use on the rear of the ute for the rotisserie 🙏
Cheers mate, I used the bumper bar tailgate hinge bolts, not sure what size they are but they were sufficient in holding it up for 3 years.
@@BarnesysBuilds cheers mate appreciate it! My HX ute is finally going onto the rotisserie, I’m getting a lot of momentum from your channel 🍻
@@jackwilliamson9503 good to hear, you won't know yourself once you can spin it around, good luck👍
Mate, just get some nice stock height, stock rating suspension with new springs, shocks and bushes. It isn't high enough to look silly, it's low enough to look cool but not too low to scrape on anything. You will never get it to handle better and the best thing you can do is upgrade to rack & pinion steering, but that is pretty expensive. I like everything else so far. Keep up the good content mate. Might I suggest getting the chassis done first now and the body underside sound deadened and placed back on the chassis to get it rolling and take it to a pro for the rest of the body work?
Yeah, most likely the route I will take, easier and cheaper, and faster, reset lowered leaf springs and lowered front springs with shocks. Yeah definitely following the chassis route and underneath treatment with deadener. However I'm seeing the whole project through so I will be doing the body work and paint. I know it's outrageous but that was the goal I set myself so I have to achieve that. Cheers mate
Great Videos mate. So great to see someone putting this sort of thing up in OZ. I live in Adelaide and pretty ironic really as I have just been watching a few vid's re the Rotiss. I have just seen a clip from the US using the very same model. Can you tell me where you purchased your Rottis, much appreciated and thanks for the vids.
Cheers mate, yeah I got the rotisserie through DTM trading in Melbourne, great people to deal with. Thanks for watching.
That’s good
I hope you disconnected the battery before you started welding
No battery was in the ute mate
This is the best video I've seen so far on the topic, how did your ute end up mate?
Thanks Ross, Ute is still going, up to the front end rebuild now.
Gday Barnsey love the videos mate cheers for doing all the recording. Just wondering what size steel tubing did you use for the rotisserie attachment? Is it 65 x 3 or 4mm ? Thanks mate
Cheers mate, glad you got some use out of them, I am pretty sure that was the spec, 65mm and I remember going the thicker 4-5mm wall to make sure it was definitely strong enough. Good luck with the build.
Weldingtipsandtricks, have a look there.
Possibly a bit more practice on non structural bits would have been better.
Still good progress in an enjoyable series, whens the next one? ☺
Thanks mate, I will check them out, yeah I tried a few more welds off camera but you can only try so much before time pushes you to get rolling on the project. I hope to get another vid out in the next week, back on fabrication again. Cheers
Barnesy, just taking mine off the chassis now for rotisserie for first time. I notice that you didn't use the bumperette holes with large bolts, but rather you appear to have used the 1/2 bolts into the tailgate hinge holes with the captive nut inside the beaver panel? I am a bit nervous as these bolts are so small. Did you use a special bolt or have you had any probs with this mount? I've bought 4 high tensile about 5mm longer than the standard but they just look so small LOL. Thoughts, advice?
Hey mate, yes i did use the same tailgate bolts as the metal plates i welded on were the same thickness as the tailgate metal. It was a bit of a risk as i guess they were never designed to hold the weight of the ute. However as there are 4 and spread the load it did it with ease and no issues whatsoever. The back of the ute would be lucky to be putting down 150kg on those bolts i reckon, most of the weight would be on the front where the mounts are underneath. Ive also worked in that ute up and down about 100 times and no dropping so if that is a good test case for you that they will be fine then i would go ahead and use them. cheers
@@BarnesysBuilds thanks mate. 👍
Did you buy,rent or build the the rotisserie?
I bought it from DTM trading located in Cragieburn
Cool beans,you must be doing more than one car or I assume anyway.I’m doing one and going to build one but always looking at what I can for idea’s and yours looks good.good luck
@@barrykilts4506 yeah I got a line up at the moment, HJ45 is sort of being done at the same time but that will be a future episode.
Сварка аж глаза режет)))
Hey barensy what are the wheels on ur ute i really like them and would like to put some on my 1 tonner
Hey mate, they are 5 spoke Dragways, very famous Aussie wheel for these old Holden's.