Good work Barnsey, I see ya learning as ya doing ! Same way I did. Lovin following ya as I am doin up a WB too, I’m further thru the build than you but so many similar areas of repair etc . One helpful tip I can add is once it’s topcoat time always push/ pull your wet edge around the Ute to avoid join lines/ dry paint dust contamination etc this will save ya the hassle of sanding / top coating again . Rock on
So excited! Dude, I don’t envy you when it comes to straightening and smoothing out those rear quarters. She looks pretty good though, mate. You should be proud so far.
Yeah one of them is pretty wavy as you can see, I will try and push out and low area but really it's going to be body filler that does the majority of the ironing. In saying that I've never applied any of that either!
Hey mate, you remind me of 15 years ago. Boy you aren’t wrong about it being a learning curve! I’m self taught but it turned into an obsession to get that perfect finish! Few tips to help you along (wish I had the same advise when I started) Your fan isn’t enough one you start getting to clearing the car. I use two of your fans, a 60cm extraction fan, and two centrifugal blowers and it’s just enough. Your car needs heaps of filler, use a dry guide coat, sanding technique on a long block (500mm+). If you want a dead straight body use a long spline block. Invest in a good spray gun. I am now using the Anest Iwata supernova. Expensive gun ($700) but I was never able to get a good finish on my devilbiss gti pro ($500). Don’t listen to people saying it’s all technique. In my case the supernova changed everything for me! If ya spent so much on the booth, use proper intake filters made for spray booths, they work way better than the exhaust media you have. You will be getting dust in the end. Use the 3m perfect it polishing system. Anything else is just hard work. Thank me in a few years when you are done!
Hey Ivan thanks for the tips mate, this is exactly why I started the channel so I can get feedback and learn. I hear what your saying about the fans and will look into it when the time comes to spray. The gun is a massive outlay for one spray so I might look into options for that. I have just bought a 900mm melamotive spline in prep for body work. The quarters and doors will need a bit of filler. I'm ok with it now, never going to nail it first time. Thanks and I will note all the points down.
@@BarnesysBuilds no worries mate! Too many TH-cam videos made me go in all directions till I worked it out myself. Yep splines are great! I did bodywork with my usual durablock and first time I used a spline, i couldn’t believe how off I was. But if you have done blocking before it’s hard to get perfect! With the spline omg, no waves, dead flat!
@@BarnesysBuilds splines are hard to grip. So I start with a durablock, then finish off with the spline. I think I get the blocking pretty good, but I guide coat again and get onto the spline. The spline always reveals spots I missed with the durablock. I use 3m stik it 80 grit adhesive backed sandpaper with all my blocking.
@@ivantieu6764 I agree on the stick back paper when using with a guide block. The hook & loop has too much give and removes the guide coat when it shouldn’t. I have to follow this build, fascinated by “Lesonal 2k epoxy primer. I am in the States and we have AkzoNobel paint shop in our City. DK, cert. auto ASE Master tech since 78, retired.
Looks great, I’m epoxy also but I shoudlnt use my Epoxy over acid treatments so I am going to clean and key the surface as I was just blasting Epoxy over to begin with. As long as we follow the tech sheets be fine, booth looking good too
Yeah I was a Little unsure about the acid residue as it definitely left some very fine marks seems to not affect adhesion though so I can iron out the marks with hi fill.
Looking great mate. The best part about where you're now at, is that up until now you've been pulling it apart, cutting rust out, replacing panels and trying to stop rust from continuing. Now that you've got all that done, you're putting it back together, adding paint not removing it, protecting areas you've already painted, etc. It's still work but it's forward progress. Or maybe that's just how I think of it. 😂 Are you going to do body filler next then high-fill primer?
Yes exactly my thoughts Ray, seems like the hard stuff is over for now at least! The chassis is going to be a challenge in itself but just cleaning and painting. Yes I will be doing body filler then hi fill but as body filler is porous I don't want to start it then let it sit around for ages so I might get back on the doors and remaining panels get them epoxied. Can you let hi fill sit around once it's applied?
@@BarnesysBuilds i have always thought that you shouldn't leave etch primer on by itself for long periods. Either cover it with high fill primer or remove it altogether before putting 2 pack primer directly onto the bare metal. But i believe high fill can be left for a while. I'd be more than happy for an experienced spray painter to clarify or correct me on that though. I'm just a grubby sheet metal worker having a go at it too. 🤣
@@RayPlant77 yeah I reckon I will leave it in epoxy then until the chassis and engine are done so I can then do body work and hi fill then drop it onto the chassis and do inner spraying then mount doors guards tailgate and bonnet and go for the final run!
Great work impressed with your home made booth how did your fan setup work with extracting overspray was it quite effective thanks keep up the good work awesome shed to man 👍
Cheers mate! Yeah the fan worked pretty good considering it's only one fan in one location, over spray did hang around for a little bit but cleared fast enough before it settled. I sprayed some wheels and they came up beautifully shiny. Cheers
Thnaks Tim, Yeah compressor is great, it keeps turning on but the pressure enver dropped at all so it has more than enough to spray a whole car. thanks for watching!
Nice work (as always). Did you end up adding more fans to clear the air in your booth or did it work out okay? I am still digging the rust out of the sills on my WB ute, the rust had eaten through 3 layers of metal at the front door posts. I am now doing just in front of the rear wheel, the rust has eaten both the sill and that small piece next to it plus two layers behind, am getting real good at making replacement bits and pieces (thanks to Trev's blog for the lessons)
Cheers Chris, yeah actually I didn't change the setup of the fan but I did seal some areas up with tape so it had better draw. I'm not sure but 2k epoxy seems quite heavy so I reckon there was less airborne particles than the 2k polyurethane base I used on the wheels. Yeah I remember doing that door to wheel arch repair, massive job.
I am looking for a good epoxy primer/sealer to spray on bare metal. We have an “AkzoNoble” paint store in Omaha, NE. here in the States. They produce a verity of products from “Sikkens”, Lesonal, Wanda and others. I am starting backwards as the engine & transmission, most of the exhaust, final drive with traction, tires and wheels are done. The restoration is a 1967 C10 and engine is EFI from a 03 Tahoe w/OD non-electric trans I built last year to handle 600HP behind a 400HP engine. Should last as my driver. White top over a medium Copper Metallic base coat clear. I have a few waves, tiny rust and door gaps to finish first. But I am using a chemical strip of the old paint. These unbolt every single panel down to a bare cab. So easy to work on as I don’t have a proper shop to work in. Retirement does not pay well, so budget in check but will spend good money for good product for longevity. I find your build interesting and painted 6-7 family vehicles over 40 years, but product & chemicals have changed so much. Thanks!
@@BarnesysBuilds This one was a project my son wanted to pull a trailer to mow grass. After 5 months, he gave up and the truck is mine for free! I have no idea if they were imported into Australia but the have thousands here as gamers bought them new. No A/C, 6 cylinder with 4speed stick. My first vehicle cost me $150 for a 1965 C10 Apache short bed. Wood floors soaked with diesel, motor oil as it serviced caterpillars, road graders and back hoes a big job sites. I drove that truck for 6 years and was 13 when I bought it.
Etch primer was already on it, it's recommended to put epoxy primer over bare metal anyway hence why I washed off the etch first then applied the epoxy. It is a primer so next is body filler then hi fill. I used leaonal 2k epoxy.
@@leeharris2374 The catalyzed epoxy with stick to bare clean metal with a vengeance. It seals, resistant to all moisture and if pass the “Open Window” then has to be scuffed. The window varys by company but during this time, any catalyzed product used on it stick thru a chemical bond, cross-linking filler to high build. In the States, a popular company called SPI, sells a 3 color epoxy that has a 7 day window. They just want it on bare clean steel without any DTM, acid or phosphorus wash as it has to be neutralized. Evercoat Rage Gold goes onto P80 sanding after wiped with cleaner such as isopropyl on a lint free towel. This vehicle looks like a 70’s Subaru Brat, sold in the States but bigger. DK, ASE master retired
Should really be spraying it with a spray bottle (mist) Apply leave for a few minutes you will see it start to change colour slightly to not let it dry out use a wet rag and wipe. Then dry with a dry rag Whilst blowing air at it with air compressor shouldn’t be doing more then a panel at a time. White residue is no good for the panel
![เปิดบ้าน โคตรสวย ป๋องกพล รู้จักตั้งนาน เพิ่งรู้ว่ารวย!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tmgCF_2HfYI/mqdefault.jpg)
Great stuff mate. Those rust repairs don’t stand out so you’ve done something right. 👍
Good work Barnsey, I see ya learning as ya doing ! Same way I did. Lovin following ya as I am doin up a WB too, I’m further thru the build than you but so many similar areas of repair etc . One helpful tip I can add is once it’s topcoat time always push/ pull your wet edge around the Ute to avoid join lines/ dry paint dust contamination etc this will save ya the hassle of sanding / top coating again . Rock on
Cheers mate, yeah nervous about the top coat but I guess you just got to give it a crack! Cheers
looks awesome mate. well done. 2 years! amazing commitment
Thanks mate
That must have been sooo satisfying. Excellent work mate .
Yes in deed, a big milestone for the project!
So excited! Dude, I don’t envy you when it comes to straightening and smoothing out those rear quarters. She looks pretty good though, mate. You should be proud so far.
Yeah one of them is pretty wavy as you can see, I will try and push out and low area but really it's going to be body filler that does the majority of the ironing. In saying that I've never applied any of that either!
first time ive seen your build...well done and really nice put together content.
Thnaks mate, appreciate the feedback!
Great job mate , looking awesome.
Hey mate, you remind me of 15 years ago. Boy you aren’t wrong about it being a learning curve! I’m self taught but it turned into an obsession to get that perfect finish!
Few tips to help you along (wish I had the same advise when I started)
Your fan isn’t enough one you start getting to clearing the car. I use two of your fans, a 60cm extraction fan, and two centrifugal blowers and it’s just enough.
Your car needs heaps of filler, use a dry guide coat, sanding technique on a long block (500mm+). If you want a dead straight body use a long spline block.
Invest in a good spray gun. I am now using the Anest Iwata supernova. Expensive gun ($700) but I was never able to get a good finish on my devilbiss gti pro ($500). Don’t listen to people saying it’s all technique. In my case the supernova changed everything for me!
If ya spent so much on the booth, use proper intake filters made for spray booths, they work way better than the exhaust media you have.
You will be getting dust in the end. Use the 3m perfect it polishing system. Anything else is just hard work.
Thank me in a few years when you are done!
Hey Ivan thanks for the tips mate, this is exactly why I started the channel so I can get feedback and learn.
I hear what your saying about the fans and will look into it when the time comes to spray. The gun is a massive outlay for one spray so I might look into options for that.
I have just bought a 900mm melamotive spline in prep for body work. The quarters and doors will need a bit of filler. I'm ok with it now, never going to nail it first time.
Thanks and I will note all the points down.
@@BarnesysBuilds no worries mate! Too many TH-cam videos made me go in all directions till I worked it out myself. Yep splines are great! I did bodywork with my usual durablock and first time I used a spline, i couldn’t believe how off I was.
But if you have done blocking before it’s hard to get perfect! With the spline omg, no waves, dead flat!
@@ivantieu6764 Yeah nice, will be great for the large quarters! cheers mate
@@BarnesysBuilds splines are hard to grip. So I start with a durablock, then finish off with the spline. I think I get the blocking pretty good, but I guide coat again and get onto the spline. The spline always reveals spots I missed with the durablock. I use 3m stik it 80 grit adhesive backed sandpaper with all my blocking.
@@ivantieu6764 I agree on the stick back paper when using with a guide block. The hook & loop has too much give and removes the guide coat when it shouldn’t.
I have to follow this build, fascinated by “Lesonal 2k epoxy primer. I am in the States and we have AkzoNobel paint shop in our City.
DK, cert. auto ASE Master tech since 78, retired.
Looks great, I’m epoxy also but I shoudlnt use my Epoxy over acid treatments so I am going to clean and key the surface as I was just blasting Epoxy over to begin with. As long as we follow the tech sheets be fine, booth looking good too
Yeah I was a Little unsure about the acid residue as it definitely left some very fine marks seems to not affect adhesion though so I can iron out the marks with hi fill.
How good is your camera work getting?
Love the moving time lapse shots. Great angles and good talent in front of the camera
Ha😂 that was actually a mistake, the old duct tape tripod slipped and created cinema magic!
Looking great mate. The best part about where you're now at, is that up until now you've been pulling it apart, cutting rust out, replacing panels and trying to stop rust from continuing. Now that you've got all that done, you're putting it back together, adding paint not removing it, protecting areas you've already painted, etc. It's still work but it's forward progress.
Or maybe that's just how I think of it. 😂
Are you going to do body filler next then high-fill primer?
Yes exactly my thoughts Ray, seems like the hard stuff is over for now at least! The chassis is going to be a challenge in itself but just cleaning and painting. Yes I will be doing body filler then hi fill but as body filler is porous I don't want to start it then let it sit around for ages so I might get back on the doors and remaining panels get them epoxied. Can you let hi fill sit around once it's applied?
@@BarnesysBuilds i have always thought that you shouldn't leave etch primer on by itself for long periods. Either cover it with high fill primer or remove it altogether before putting 2 pack primer directly onto the bare metal.
But i believe high fill can be left for a while. I'd be more than happy for an experienced spray painter to clarify or correct me on that though. I'm just a grubby sheet metal worker having a go at it too. 🤣
@@RayPlant77 yeah I reckon I will leave it in epoxy then until the chassis and engine are done so I can then do body work and hi fill then drop it onto the chassis and do inner spraying then mount doors guards tailgate and bonnet and go for the final run!
Great work impressed with your home made booth how did your fan setup work with extracting overspray was it quite effective thanks keep up the good work awesome shed to man 👍
Cheers mate! Yeah the fan worked pretty good considering it's only one fan in one location, over spray did hang around for a little bit but cleared fast enough before it settled. I sprayed some wheels and they came up beautifully shiny. Cheers
Good work legend, how did your compressor hold up with primer, any hesitation to keep up? Can't wait to see final coat on,Keep up the awesome work 😁
Thnaks Tim, Yeah compressor is great, it keeps turning on but the pressure enver dropped at all so it has more than enough to spray a whole car. thanks for watching!
Nice work (as always). Did you end up adding more fans to clear the air in your booth or did it work out okay? I am still digging the rust out of the sills on my WB ute, the rust had eaten through 3 layers of metal at the front door posts. I am now doing just in front of the rear wheel, the rust has eaten both the sill and that small piece next to it plus two layers behind, am getting real good at making replacement bits and pieces (thanks to Trev's blog for the lessons)
Cheers Chris, yeah actually I didn't change the setup of the fan but I did seal some areas up with tape so it had better draw. I'm not sure but 2k epoxy seems quite heavy so I reckon there was less airborne particles than the 2k polyurethane base I used on the wheels. Yeah I remember doing that door to wheel arch repair, massive job.
I am looking for a good epoxy primer/sealer to spray on bare metal. We have an “AkzoNoble” paint store in Omaha, NE. here in the States. They produce a verity of products from “Sikkens”, Lesonal, Wanda and others.
I am starting backwards as the engine & transmission, most of the exhaust, final drive with traction, tires and wheels are done. The restoration is a 1967 C10 and engine is EFI from a 03 Tahoe w/OD non-electric trans I built last year to handle 600HP behind a 400HP engine. Should last as my driver. White top over a medium Copper Metallic base coat clear. I have a few waves, tiny rust and door gaps to finish first. But I am using a chemical strip of the old paint. These unbolt every single panel down to a bare cab. So easy to work on as I don’t have a proper shop to work in. Retirement does not pay well, so budget in check but will spend good money for good product for longevity.
I find your build interesting and painted 6-7 family vehicles over 40 years, but product & chemicals have changed so much. Thanks!
Nice, like the C10's, defintely a bucket list ute but unfortunately pricey over here now!
@@BarnesysBuilds This one was a project my son wanted to pull a trailer to mow grass. After 5 months, he gave up and the truck is mine for free! I have no idea if they were imported into Australia but the have thousands here as gamers bought them new. No A/C, 6 cylinder with 4speed stick. My first vehicle cost me $150 for a 1965 C10 Apache short bed. Wood floors soaked with diesel, motor oil as it serviced caterpillars, road graders and back hoes a big job sites. I drove that truck for 6 years and was 13 when I bought it.
great video work, ute looks great. you shouldn't leave the tape on...
no etch primer ??
i use valspar etch then 2k valspar primer
never had any problems with it
no sure what brand your using
Etch primer was already on it, it's recommended to put epoxy primer over bare metal anyway hence why I washed off the etch first then applied the epoxy. It is a primer so next is body filler then hi fill. I used leaonal 2k epoxy.
@@BarnesysBuilds not sure i agree with you here mate,,,but great work👍
@@leeharris2374 The catalyzed epoxy with stick to bare clean metal with a vengeance. It seals, resistant to all moisture and if pass the “Open Window” then has to be scuffed. The window varys by company but during this time, any catalyzed product used on it stick thru a chemical bond, cross-linking filler to high build.
In the States, a popular company called SPI, sells a 3 color epoxy that has a 7 day window. They just want it on bare clean steel without any DTM, acid or phosphorus wash as it has to be neutralized. Evercoat Rage Gold goes onto P80 sanding after wiped with cleaner such as isopropyl on a lint free towel.
This vehicle looks like a 70’s Subaru Brat, sold in the States but bigger.
DK, ASE master retired
Should really be spraying it with a spray bottle (mist)
Apply leave for a few minutes you will see it start to change colour slightly to not let it dry out use a wet rag and wipe. Then dry with a dry rag
Whilst blowing air at it with air compressor shouldn’t be doing more then a panel at a time.
White residue is no good for the panel
Cheers mate, seems to be fine, been sitting for 6 months and no bubbles at all and has adhered extremely well so got away with it.
Barnesy's Builds awesome !!! Don’t tell me to much, I’m not up to that episode yet !!!
Mint 👍