2024 Ranger Raptor, Rust IS normal. You guys were right!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 เม.ย. 2024
- If you have anything better to do, you will probably regret spending 12 min watching this video... you have been warned... but i tell a joke at the end!
- ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
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I was told from Ford that 4A is 100% fine to leave on for normal everyday on-road driving (4A was actually intended for this), However it will use more fuel than 2H. 4A will be better for launching and cornering, so I have my sports mode set for 4A and just use 2H for normal everyday use and HWY driving for the fuel savings. In the wet I will flick it over to 4A or use the slippery mode as mine has KO2s which are totally useless in the wet, and 4A helps massively with traction
I have my 'R' mode set to sports everything, but in 2H with traction disabled for more 'spirited' driving....
Thanks! I kind of figured that was what 4A was for but great to have it confirmed! That’s crazy to hear that KO2s are not great in the wet conditions. I mean any truck is gonna get sideways in the rain in RWD cuz they are so lite in the back end but I think I’ll just roll in 4A and see how that is
I appreciate you be the guinea pig and doing all this stuff to your truck. 👍
Right on! I’m all for being the guy who tries the random crap first to let you all know if it’s worth it
I've read that " Fluid Film " is often treated to treat exposed metal as well ( as a undercoat material ) on trucks that spread sand/ salt on highways during winter months in those climates.
PB blaster has a spray on film for that purpose too
Good to know. I will do some research and compare fluid film to rust encapsulator and see which is better for my use case here/ thanks for the info. Cheers
I am also very disappointed about the plastic oil pan and transmission pan. Definitely let us know what you end up getting to remedy that situation. Replacement pans or just beefy skid plates that cover them.
Sounds good, I will absolutely put up a video with what I find and what I end up doing!
Our Raptor down in the Caribbean came from Thailand with painted axles and prop shaft
I’m jealous. I don’t like rust even if it is to be expected… the fact that there are ranger raptors out there there with painted drive shafts make me wonder why they didn’t use those here in the US
@@flaberdoopin lol at least the rust is better than having low rear diff oil that i had 😂
Thai versions do not come with memory seat though
@@leedehao But they do have a locking fuel filler flap.
interesting... i will never understand why there are so many differences from one global market to another.
Love yer driving style! I still have a bit of a hair trigger right foot. Your blast down the back roads sounds like my Traxxas Slash. LOL! Gear whine ... GM guys love the whine from their M22 "rock crushers". Once I get up into some revs, my Magnuson sounds kinda electric. Keep up the great work. BTW, when/if I ever get mine, I ain't lookin' underneath. Those days are gone. LOL!
thanks for the comment. I have heard of the rock crusher, but didn't know which transmission it was exactly. Hope you are able to find one of these bad boys, they are so much fun! Cheers.
@@flaberdoopin Muncie M22, 4 speed from the 60s, my era. Mostly very high-performance Chevys. Aren't yaz glad yaz didn't ax? LOL!
haha, i remember a episode of 'Last Man Standing' with Tim Allen and Jay Leno talking about old muscle cars and they wax poetic about the 'rock crusher'... now i know what that is! Cheers
Also thinking to paint to paint the exhaust System
I haven't seen any rust on the exhaust... not sure if it needs it but I guess it can't hurt as long as you use high temp paint
Rust is normal on these parts, they'll rust just from the humidity in the air. Don't spray paint on them or anything that dries, it'll only make it worse.
Get your entire vehicle undercoated with either Fluid Film or Woolwax.
Interesting... i just ordered a small can of eastwood's rust encapsulator that is made for this specific use case so i will maybe just do the rear u-joint and see how it looks after a few months before i do the rest of the driveshafts all the way around.
@@flaberdoopin Driveshafts and u-joints are hard to keep from rusting because they'll sling off any undercoating on them. The downside from using anything that dries is that it'll get stone chips & dry out and crack and hold moisture in, thus rusting the metal quicker. On a positive note...these parts are A LOT more robust metal than body parts and frame parts and will likely never have to be replaced due to rust anyway.
wow, i never thought about the dry paint chipping and then trapping water/mousture inside... maybe i should just accept it for what it is and in 10-15 years, if i still have this truck i can just get new driveshafts if i need them.
@@flaberdoopin You never will need new ones, due to rust anyway. The rest of the underside, definitely get it undercoated asap.
A year from now, you’ll take your truck in and tell dealer, hey my body’s rusting
Ford dealer 🗣️ it’s ok that’s normal!
haha, you may be right but i am crossing my fingers!
Leave it in 4A indefinitely. It's OK. Do cabin soundproofing. Nice project.
Thanks, that is good to know. As for sound proofing, I may throw some dinomat or brownbread in there eventually if stuff starts to rattle but right now it is so quiet inside I don’t think it needs it
How come you still have the garage remote on the visor? Is it hard to program the homelink in these trucks?
it is 100% me being lazy... that being said, since you noticed it, i will be programming it tonight when i get home... Cheers.
@@flaberdoopin it's all good. I'm just busting your chops. Keep up with the videos! 👍
Remember to use the oil prime procedure when you change the oil
What do you mean about the Oil Prime procedure? For the oil filter or is that something else? I haven’t heard of anything like that and I have been changing oil for a while, I am gonna look it up but if there is something special to do please let me know
@@flaberdoopin hi. Once the oil is changed you depress the accelerator fully and hit start. It will crank the engine for 10 seconds without starting to get oil pressure up and fill the filter
that is amazing... i never knew that and i really appreciate it.
Breakfast buffet 😂 Ram somewhere😂
Glad you appreciate my terrible sense of humor haha
Dads understand each other 😂
@@marklihsu hahaha, dad jokes are my favorite! Cheers
1:09 - when you planted it and it hung in third gear for that extra five seconds... what mode was everything in? (also, have not watched the whole vid yet, so apologies if it's coming). Asking as mine arrives in AU in a few weeks 😀. What is everyone's go-to "R" mode settings? Subbed too. Enjoying your vids.
Dang - that's rusty though (watched a bit further). I believe we down under receive ours with rust protection (and locking fuel filler flaps).
Did you switch to 4A when it was pissing down rain?
it was in sport mode across the board. It only hangs up like that if you are really getting on it and then you take your foot off and just want to maintain the speed. It doesn't do that in normal mode. Sport mode is made to be peppy and always be in a position to get up and go. It also does that awesome downshift when you are braking into a corner and it revs up as it downshifts so you can speed out and it just sounds awesome!
Wow that can’t be right with all that rust I hope 🤞 ford see this
Sadly, I already took it to the dealer about this and they said it is normal and they wouldn’t be doing anything about it.
30 year retired Navy Officer myself. Good on you, but you live too far away from your work. That said I get it - with two kids your commute is your only personal "quiet" time..
4A vs 2WD. When Ford introduced 4A it was designed to provide 35% of the torque to the front axle and ratchet up that percentage when slippage is detected. The Ranger is likely updated, but similar in operation. 4A use is best on snow/ice covered winter roads alternating with dry spots.
Rust. Go to Harbor Freight and purchase their $30 blaster and use with baking soda to clean the rust and follow by spraying with.a zinc based paint. Your rust doesn't look significant, most being normal surface rust, except perhaps the drive shaft just forward of the rear differential. Don't worry bout it.
Thanks for the comment and thanks for putting in the full 30 years, sir. I live out by Dulles airport and commute into DC for school for 1 year knowing i will be working at SDA in chantilly for 3 years once i graduate so it was a strategic decision to get my kids into a good school that they can stay in once i go out to my next command. As for the rust, i ordered Eastwoods rust encapsulator and i am going to give that a try, i will clean up the rust best i can before painting it. but in the end, i just need to accept that it isn't goign to be a problem. Cheers.
Haven’t drove it today i was enjoying the AMG GTS
Awesome!
Leave it in 4A indefinitely. It's OK
Awesome, thanks!
Ransomware 😅
That is my new favorite jokes
Fu#k me that shop !!! Dream on bourbon!!! WOW 🤩
Edit:: You are Brilliant!! I f##ken love your style. Keep going hard on the rig. I enjoying it 🤩
Oh and I love the bourbon choice at the local bottle shops !! F me 👍🏼
The shop was awesome, i will be using that place for sure to do some of the work on my truck but i also want to be able to record so i'll have to figure something out. And that liquor shop is awesome... they have a great selection of whiskey, and probably other stuff too but i just stick with the bourbon, irish and scotch whiskey as a general rule.
Glad to see you gave up on your rust nonissue. Haven't heard anything about changing your ENGINE OIL. Break in oil is a thing of the past but any engine builder will tell you to change at ~1000 and then every 3000 miles. Quit worrying about the gear oil and change the engine oil. The way you hammer on them your turbos will thank you.
You have a valid point! I will do an oil change this weekend! Cheers and I do appreciate the suggestion and think you are right, if I’m gonna drive this thing hard I gotta do my part to make sure it lasts!
@@flaberdoopinI say gear oil is cheaper and easier to drain and fill than replacing a transfer case or a diff. I found out that my Maverick AWD had low fluid in both the rear diff and the PTU. I was able to pump in 150ml in both before fluid came out of the fill ports. So I feel better knowing the proper levels are in both until the first service interval (30k - 40k).
10:16 Oh, I made that comment before this part of your video. The whining noise might be normal in your Ranger Raptor. But still good to know for sure that the fluids are full. imo
@@Aaron_Voltz i appreciate the comment. I think i will drain and fill both diffs and the transfer case in the near future just to know it is done right. Cheers. That is crazy that your Maverick was low in front and back!