For someone who had done the wood 12 "herringbone I love the video but one thing that concerns me - is that installer covered the lines for initial tile and just laid it blind as you can not see the line and if the first piece is wrong look out as the problem perpetuates itself as you move along but then it too late but saw the second part and it looks great. I install first 4 pieces first "let it dry" that way it cant move and it will move on you trust me as you go along. Herringbone is not for weaklings to install. Great job. Installers wont do it as it takes time and I can understand the end pieces to be cut hahahahahha
Larger format tiles should get back buttered in addition to the application of the thinnest to the substrate to assure 100% coverage and prevent breakage of the tile. Just an FYI for your next one, turned out nice.
Great Video... Great Visual on the "How To" aspect... No background music (Thank YOU so much)... Thank you for saying what each item is by the correct name... ... just sad that we couldn't see the rest of the video... Do you have the finish video?
I noticed something checking this out , he is not going parallel with the walls, its a close up when he starts and by the way great video but notice the tiles towards the end of the clip have the point or corner of the tile first starting to touch the baseboard, So in short if you like the side of the tile up with the walls its going to look one way , but the best way I think anyway is lining up the tiles to the secondary marks he made, notice there are two sets of center lines. Im glad I caught this because I would have had the tiles having the look I dont want. the more high end look is using the walls to fine the center points and then putting the second set of lines in. Sweep your floor good and also it dont hurt to take a scrapper and scrap for any nails or anything sticking up higher then the floor when after using the broom its still there. Use a level and a rubber mallet and make sure you have all the tiles at the same level.
Not to dog this video... Good stuff. But after snapping your first line (center line) do not trust the framing and just snap the perpindicular line the same way (off walls). Framing isn't always perfectly square. Use a framing square or, what I do, use the 3,4,5 rule to snap the 2nd line.
Maybe it’s not too clear in the video, but I don’t just snap one line and then the other perpendicular to that one. I find the center of each wall, and snap my lines from side to side, center to center, thus giving me the center point of the room.
@@CliffsHowTo no, you explained fine in the vid.. I am saying the walls are not always perpindicular, rooms are not always square. In fact they are rarely perfect enough to find centers and cross them, to get perpindicular lines worthy enough of tile layout. Snap 1st line with numbers off walls like in vid. Snap SECOND line perpindicular to first, using 3-4-5 off of the first line.
If it were me, I start a full grid of the area for herring bone patterns. That means using the length of the tile plus the width and chalking out boxes from those dimensions..if you have long arms possibly 2 lengths plus 2 widths max. I try to get the boxes for the grid around 2 to 2.5 ft square and what you get is tiles falling on your line every other box Takes about 15min to do but after that you have a perfect grid to spread thinset cleanly and accurately as well as ensuring you keep a good square throughout.
Im a bit tired of everyone saying back buttering is essential in all applications etc etc especially with large tile. That is an antiquated idea based on old time technology where thinset had much less strength and resilience. In a heavily industrial area i may choose to back butter but in 99percent of applications, using a good quality non sag thinset (Mapei, ardex, flextile 56sr) is more than adequate. If the floor has decent straightness then you are good to go with a half inch trowel and no back butter. If the floor is not, you are better to simply fix the floor rather then back notch tiles etc to get more height.
@@professorkaos2781 and the corner cutting ,poor ethics beta has commented. REAL PROFESSIONALS (few left) absofuckinlutely back butter for 100% coverage.especially ANY TILE That have large deep pits on the back which was to save the manufacturer SHIPPING Costs for weight(and definitelyweakensthe tile)Backbuttering strengthensthose Cheap tile you use and Push ..Let alone the dust on backs of every tile.Only Lazy hacks Cry about back buttering.god forbid u actually keep ur helper working an entire day instead of just at set up/clean up and mixing/ cuts periodically. Shame how LAZY MOST blue collar workers are.OLD SCHOOL IS RIGHT.Ethics AND PRIDE.No corners cut,.Has nothing to do wt thinset strength.Prevents Any Skimming over from Thinset drying as producing. Smh
Do you have the full video from start to finish. I believe your first video ends after you lay down the first tile, and the second one begins when your mostly done with it. I'm going to tile my dining room and the pattern you have done is really perfect and it looks nice. I'm just having trouble trying to lay down tiles in that pattern ?
I did not take video of the whole process. I explained what I did. Once you start laying the tiles, you just keep repeating the process, making sure you stay on your chalk lines.
I don't see the logic in that. There is only so much mortar that should be present under the tile. So you use the proper sized trowel, to give the proper amount of standup, given a particular tile size. If you use the proper size trowel, then back butter it, you are essentially using double the amount of mortar per tile. Makes no sense.
When you use large format tiles, sometimes there is a "bow" in the center. Some people use a thin layer butterback to make sure there is coverage, not a thick and combed layer. FOr these tiles, not sure it is needed given the 6: width. Also, with the rectified porcelain tiles, I have not noticed any bow, so it probably wasn't needed.Maybe for ceramic?
I have used many rectified tiles over my 13years in the trade and have found that porcelain from China and Turkey seem to have be worst for bowing. Obviously price is a factor also but overall I'm especially leary of large tile from China be it rectified or not, and Turkeys products are a close second.
I am pretty sure this was it: www.homedepot.com/p/MARAZZI-Montagna-Dapple-Gray-6-in-x-24-in-Porcelain-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-14-53-sq-ft-case-ULM7/205216805 And the grout was Delorean Grey
![เปิดใจ “ต้นหอม ศกุนตลา” หลังโดนพาดพิงธุรกิจที่เคยทำ และผลกระทบทำถูกปลดฟ้าผ่า! | แฉ 24 ต.ค.67 [2/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vCi5OIqlxaE/mqdefault.jpg)
For someone who had done the wood 12 "herringbone I love the video but one thing that concerns me - is that installer covered the lines for initial tile and just laid it blind as you can not see the line and if the first piece is wrong look out as the problem perpetuates itself as you move along but then it too late but saw the second part and it looks great.
I install first 4 pieces first "let it dry" that way it cant move and it will move on you trust me as you go along. Herringbone is not for weaklings to install. Great job. Installers wont do it as it takes time and I can understand the end pieces to be cut hahahahahha
Good tip. I'll just lay four tiles tomorrow and let them dry before continuing.
yea he should’ve either backbuttered the key set or used a laser, allowing key to dry to eliminate movement
Plus floor not clean enough thinset to hard amature work wanna be utube pro haha
Larger format tiles should get back buttered in addition to the application of the thinnest to the substrate to assure 100% coverage and prevent breakage of the tile. Just an FYI for your next one, turned out nice.
Great Video...
Great Visual on the "How To" aspect...
No background music (Thank YOU so much)...
Thank you for saying what each item is by the correct name...
... just sad that we couldn't see the rest of the video... Do you have the finish video?
Thanks for the video. Everything is explained very well. Well done.
I noticed something checking this out , he is not going parallel with the walls, its a close up when he starts and by the way great video but notice the tiles towards the end of the clip have the point or corner of the tile first starting to touch the baseboard, So in short if you like the side of the tile up with the walls its going to look one way , but the best way I think anyway is lining up the tiles to the secondary marks he made, notice there are two sets of center lines. Im glad I caught this because I would have had the tiles having the look I dont want. the more high end look is using the walls to fine the center points and then putting the second set of lines in. Sweep your floor good and also it dont hurt to take a scrapper and scrap for any nails or anything sticking up higher then the floor when after using the broom its still there. Use a level and a rubber mallet and make sure you have all the tiles at the same level.
the first tile laid is wrong, the center of short end should split the center line or you end up with uneven cuts at the side walls/border
Hmmmmmm, you may be right about that rule. The trowel that I used did work fine though...
Not to dog this video... Good stuff. But after snapping your first line (center line) do not trust the framing and just snap the perpindicular line the same way (off walls). Framing isn't always perfectly square. Use a framing square or, what I do, use the 3,4,5 rule to snap the 2nd line.
Maybe it’s not too clear in the video, but I don’t just snap one line and then the other perpendicular to that one.
I find the center of each wall, and snap my lines from side to side, center to center, thus giving me the center point of the room.
@@CliffsHowTo no, you explained fine in the vid.. I am saying the walls are not always perpindicular, rooms are not always square. In fact they are rarely perfect enough to find centers and cross them, to get perpindicular lines worthy enough of tile layout. Snap 1st line with numbers off walls like in vid. Snap SECOND line perpindicular to first, using 3-4-5 off of the first line.
@@CliffsHowTo maybe I misunderstood... You're just finding the center and not using the lines for layout?
If it were me, I start a full grid of the area for herring bone patterns. That means using the length of the tile plus the width and chalking out boxes from those dimensions..if you have long arms possibly 2 lengths plus 2 widths max. I try to get the boxes for the grid around 2 to 2.5 ft square and what you get is tiles falling on your line every other box Takes about 15min to do but after that you have a perfect grid to spread thinset cleanly and accurately as well as ensuring you keep a good square throughout.
ya gotta use a 1/2 notch my friend and always back butter a large format tile. I liked your video regardless
Im a bit tired of everyone saying back buttering is essential in all applications etc etc especially with large tile. That is an antiquated idea based on old time technology where thinset had much less strength and resilience. In a heavily industrial area i may choose to back butter but in 99percent of applications, using a good quality non sag thinset (Mapei, ardex, flextile 56sr) is more than adequate. If the floor has decent straightness then you are good to go with a half inch trowel and no back butter. If the floor is not, you are better to simply fix the floor rather then back notch tiles etc to get more height.
@@professorkaos2781 and the corner cutting ,poor ethics beta has commented. REAL PROFESSIONALS (few left) absofuckinlutely back butter for 100% coverage.especially ANY TILE That have large deep pits on the back which was to save the manufacturer SHIPPING Costs for weight(and definitelyweakensthe tile)Backbuttering strengthensthose Cheap tile you use and Push ..Let alone the dust on backs of every tile.Only Lazy hacks Cry about back buttering.god forbid u actually keep ur helper working an entire day instead of just at set up/clean up and mixing/ cuts periodically. Shame how LAZY MOST blue collar workers are.OLD SCHOOL IS RIGHT.Ethics AND PRIDE.No corners cut,.Has nothing to do wt thinset strength.Prevents Any Skimming over from Thinset drying as producing. Smh
Would love to learn how to work out the markings on the floor
So you do all that lines them you cover it with thinset... interesting
Well you sort of have to... but you also need reference lines to follow.
Do you have the full video from start to finish. I believe your first video ends after you lay down the first tile, and the second one begins when your mostly done with it. I'm going to tile my dining room and the pattern you have done is really perfect and it looks nice. I'm just having trouble trying to lay down tiles in that pattern ?
I did not take video of the whole process. I explained what I did. Once you start laying the tiles, you just keep repeating the process, making sure you stay on your chalk lines.
Really wish you would have actually showed us how you actually tile it.
Is this the Montagna rustic bag or dapple gray tile
I don't see the logic in that. There is only so much mortar that should be present under the tile. So you use the proper sized trowel, to give the proper amount of standup, given a particular tile size.
If you use the proper size trowel, then back butter it, you are essentially using double the amount of mortar per tile.
Makes no sense.
When you use large format tiles, sometimes there is a "bow" in the center. Some people use a thin layer butterback to make sure there is coverage, not a thick and combed layer. FOr these tiles, not sure it is needed given the 6: width. Also, with the rectified porcelain tiles, I have not noticed any bow, so it probably wasn't needed.Maybe for ceramic?
I have used many rectified tiles over my 13years in the trade and have found that porcelain from China and Turkey seem to have be worst for bowing. Obviously price is a factor also but overall I'm especially leary of large tile from China be it rectified or not, and Turkeys products are a close second.
Cheap on materiel mean cheap work as you do
Why you cover you square line 0_o
No pro
It was a job for sure, but worth it!
It was gray I believe...
What is the exact name
Of the tile you used for the herringbone pattern and grout?
I am pretty sure this was it:
www.homedepot.com/p/MARAZZI-Montagna-Dapple-Gray-6-in-x-24-in-Porcelain-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-14-53-sq-ft-case-ULM7/205216805
And the grout was Delorean Grey
Sorry bud ,but thats not how start a herringbone floor ,unless you want uneven cuts on the perimeter, which believe me you don't
I did it this way with no issues. I do agree that a laser line would have made it easier!
if he is installing porcelain tile wich I believe it is.. he should use porcelain thinset and not this regular one that is basically for ceramic
he is using versa bond thin set & that is suitable for porcelain tile...
versabond is a great quality all round thinset
to mucb drama,