I'm just go ahead and like all your video's man! Because of people like you, taking the time and effort to explain all steps makes it so much more approachable for DIY'ers. I had no experience what so ever, didn't even know the names of the tools I would need for the job. That was only 1 year ago. And now? I bought a house and completely renovated the craps out of it since August last year. Ground floor completed with help of my Father/Uncle in law and now going solo on the 1st floor. From brick wall and concrete floors to finished bedroom and big open dressingroom as well as our attic which is big enough for another room. Can't wait to buy a second house and do it all over again!
For laying out tile.. I draw out the perimeter of the room in AutoCAD, and lay the tile pattern down. Drag it around, figure out partial cuts to minimize material used, tweak grout widths, etc.. takes a bit of time, but definitely helps me plan it out.
your videos are my DIY bible. I have watched at least 5 videos on every DIY project i did in my home(all yours). My recent project was to redo a leaking shower(just the lower half). i was given a quot for $6000, i followed your instructions and did it on my own, guess how much i spend ?? $468(includes Few tools). your concept of you can do over kill where ever possible. i did 6 coats of RED GUARD water proofing. Minimum quantity i found was a gallon. i did not want to waste it :).
Your videos are very informative. I'd like to ask how you decide when to use the leveling clips, as I've seen you on other videos without them. Also, as far as concrete jobs go, how do you decide if you need that red underlayment or if you can just tile directly over the concrete?
Thank you for all of your informative videos. I am laying some 12 x 24 tile right now, and I sure wish I had bought some of those levelers before I started. They look pretty easy to work with.
Serious question, @13:16 is that what full coverage looks like? On the left side of the tile it looks like it has full coverage because of the pattern that is left. In the middle and the right you can see the horizontal ridges from the trowel lines but in between the trowel lines you don't see the same pattern as on the left. I hope that makes sense.
I did learn something; especially when the walls are not really square it often screws up the job. Thanks Jeff. Am an avid follower of your channel, from Ont, Miss.
Great video, good information. You seem very professional. So many haters though, in the comments. Sad to see people can bring such negativtiy to DIY video. Keep the videos coming, I've learned a lot from you.
This is the internet Robin, plenty of folks out there who don't want me to do these videos since they are afraid it will hurt their business. No worries, we release videos twice a week. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY just one tip, over ditra you'll have to use a non-modifid thinset. That is what the factory recomend to use. Everything also, very good my friend.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY can't thank enough for everything, in my country India, we don't very use wooden walls and very rarely use wooden flooring but only in window, doors. and mostly use concrete, cemented items. hence we suffers from edges, levelling, finishing, interior designing etc. we people recently starting to give some priority on interior designing as per budget and hence learning from you experts. I like most of your complete coverage on full makeover tasks which clears all my engineering errors.
Learned a lot and in time for laying down some tiles in my master bathroom. Thanks for the pointers. Very helpful directions in determining where to start and how to manage those corners that are not exactly 90 degrees! I guess a good job is only 10% inspiration and 90% preparation! Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment. A good job involves a little perspiration as well. but you are correct, the layout is more important than your cutting ability.
......BTW.... THANK YOU VERY MUCH .... I was able to paint my house myself from the help of your videos, and did a lot of work on my house after my tenants destroyed the house left it a mess and without paying rent for 6 months..........I'm waiting for my floor shipment ...I have watched your videos.... let's see if i can do floors from the help of your videos
I use a squirrel cage fan. Open a window near work blowing air out creating a kinda vacuum pulling air from the rest of the house. Customers like less dust. That, by the way, gives clean fresh air in the room.
Hi Guy.. I like how you are not annoying and self centered in all your videos. Very good at illustrating your work in step format. One question. You mentioned you would be putting down 150 sq feet that day. How much do you charge for a days work. Obviously adding heating wire would take more etc but is it $300 labor? 5 or $700.
I'm a apprentice in tiling nd I like to do extra study by watching tiling videos nd dis video in particular has bn very helpful... Great job! Bt I want to know hw u remove d spacers after tiling
Thank you Jeff Thorman, my concern is not about the membrane but more about the mortar you use in this video and the time you wait before you install the tile over,. Read that and let me know what you think about. The type of thin-set mortar used to install DITRA depends on the substrate material. For example, to set DITRA over plywood or OSB, a modified thin-set mortar meeting the requirements of ANSI A118.11 is used. To set DITRA over concrete or gypsum, Schluter-Systems recommends an unmodified thin-set mortar meeting the requirements of ANSI A118.1. Please consult the Schluter-DITRA Installation Handbook before beginning your tile project to confirm the proper materials selection.
This is not Schluter and the requirements are different. Even Schluter knows that the underlay cement has had problems which is why they invented their new cement ALLSET. A little pricey but it works.
Nice one.. thank you . I'm starting 16" square floor tiles over a large area with not parallel walls.. should be fun.. And please wear a mask ,that dust aint at all good , especially years up the road.. All the best.
Hey man, you should take it as a compliment that the only thing these people can find wrong is your dust mask and grinder guard, I give props to anyone that can make a precision cut with that guard on. Very helpful video, doing about 500 sq ft soon, second tile job I’ve ever done😬
trawl lines should run along the shortest dimension of the tile to facilitate the air getting out from under the tile. trust me I just watched a NTCA video, I'm an ecspert.
I'm installing the same size porcelain tile on a kitchen floor with wooden subfloor. 1. What size was the tile trowel you used? 2. What size was your grout line? Thanks in advance!
I used to be a Mapei user until I tried Versabond LT from Home Depot.....a much better product! creamy, stays longer in the bucket and super easy to spread. Also Mapei unmodified does not dry that fast! Mapei modified dries way too fast....
13:13 Coverage were closer to 50% because if you can see thinset ridges underneath tile those weren't fully collapsed. because they remained as *lines*.
Great! I wish you could have put down the tile in our home, you look like you know what you are doing! We just did our own new home tile job... as new DIY'ers, it was terrifying, hard and stressful. I hope I like it once we are in and living on it.
I agree with just about everything i saw on your video. This is just a mild criticism about your cutting Technic. Diamond grinder blades can be very expensive so when i do L cuts i prefer only using grinder for the small cut then use tile cutter for long cut. It saves on the grinder wheel a lot more plus makes a nice clean cut.
do that too. But when I am using tile without a lot of extra I can't risk a bad cut so I use the grinder for the whole cut. This was end of stock tile!
Preparing uneven subfloor for tile by adding another layer of plywood gluing it and then screwing it then Detra but the floor is not flat should i first use self leveler and then the plywood or installing the second layer of ply wood and then self leveler before installing Ditra and tile ? or does not matter thx
Love the video man keep up the good work after watching your video I feel like I can remodel my own house I like the fact that you show me every tool you going to use and why and you give a lot of good tips and tricks on how to get it done right and fast
Doing the tiles in my bathroom today. We seem to be keeping in trend with eachother.(despite being on opposite end of the skill and experience spectrums). 👍Nice work as always!
Thank you. I also agree with the other participants, you should wear a mask when working with dust. I am about to start my tiling job (diy) and love that leveling system. But haven't seen how you pull it out. Thanks
Only thing I would suggest if your going to use mapei lift thinset which Is a modified thinset and you know schluter says that's a no no to use , skim your ditra with it the day before then your safe to use it otherwise it might take forever to dry .
So Ive been watching alot of your tiling videos, amazing and very informative ty so much for doing what you do for us DIY people and couples. My question is: Being new to this do we tile the walls or floor first?
Shouldn't you use a water cutter for cutting porcelain to avoid chipped edges? Thanks for your many videos with a professional approach to every subject, you truly are a versatile builder and I have appreciated your easy to follow guidelines for each job.
Wish I'd seen your video before I started my tiling project yesterday, especially seeing how you placed the leveling clips. I'm laying 24" x 12" tiles over Ditra XL in a lounge area (180 sq ft) in a brick bond pattern overlapping on thirds and using the Raimondi leveling system. Wasn't sure how best to place the base clips, so I phoned Raimondi USA. I was advised to place just one clip in the middle of each short side join and two clips on each of the long sides positioned in the middle of the 1/3 and 2/3 overlap sections. Did just that and got 5 rows in before I realized I was getting worsening lippage at the T joints - the reason I believe is because the one clip in the middle of the 2/3 overlap section doesn't provide sufficient counter leverage to keep the corner of the tile up. Fortunately the thin-set under the last two rows was still just soft enough to pull up the tiles this morning and scrape it off the ditra without damaging it. But no chance with the first three. In your video you put two clips on the short edge and on the long edges a clip on either side of each joint - so there are three clips around each T joint. That's much more stable. What's more, if you have to stop the job mid floor it means you can leave off and resume later without worrying if the last row is set level or not - with some leveling systems the wedge or equivalent can be loosened again, so up you can lay a 'dry' tile row, but with systems like Raimondi and the one you are using you only get one shot at it. Kicking myself now.
Thanks, yes, I've switched to your clip configuration you used and I'm not having lippage issues now. Incidentally I was talking to a tiling contractor today and he said he puts just one Raimondi clip on each T joint, that's all. Thinking about it though, that's maybe fine if you are a pro and/or working in a team and can tile an entire room in one shot, but if you are an amateur working alone, like me, it means you can never clamp down the joints on the last row if you have to leave off mid job. So, at the expense of using more clips, I'll stick with what works best for me. Edit: Another thing to watch for with these leveling clips is that there is a tendency for thin-set to squeeze up under the wedge when they are crimped down with the pliers, making nigh on impossible to get at when cleaning out the grout-lines. So it's important to kick the clips off as early as possible (no more than 2 days after laying the tiles) while the thin-set is still reasonably soft, otherwise it will rapidly harden to the point that the clips can't be kicked off or will snap off above tile level with the remnant embedded in the thin-set plug. Made that mistake and I'm now paying the price for it, having to spend hours removing these plugs as best with a utility knife and hand grout saw.
I Love your videos Sir, I tried the levelers and they worked great my only complaint was if I stopped say halfway through a room how do I get the next day of levelers under the already set tile? I had to make sure I completed the entire floor the same day. Would love to have your solution. Thanks
Hi Jeff. We are in Texas and just flooded for the second time in 2 years with Tropical Storm Imelda a few weeks ago. Would a tile floor like this on concrete be what you would recommend most if we have another flood event? Would the membrane be impervious to mold and water retention? We cannot bear the thought (or afford) having to demolish and relay thousands of dollars worth of flooring again.
We are working on that. going to be soon. fingers crossed. technology is a real pain. And yes it is an art! but with the right amount of sanding anyone can do it. Cheers!
So, are you using the membrane because of the overspray from the walls? Is it completely necessary to use an uncoupling membrane if you have level concrete substrate? I'm asking because I want to tile a kitchen and adding all of these extra layers will definitely cause a large transition between my kitchen and living room flooring. So confused and reading all different opinions on if this membrane is needed or not. Also reading reviews that the membrane causes cracks and shifting tiles which is what I was researching this membrane to avoid so I just don't see the point. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Love your work.
Hi Samantha, if you have a concrete floor then you need a crack isolation membrane. They come in 2 varieties. A dimpled one like in this video is to help raise the height of the tile to meet up flush with a hardwood floor. If you want a lower profile then I suggest using the mapei roll on crack isolation membrane. It is available at most tile supply stores. Cheers!
After years of hearing loss on many different types of industrial jobs, rock concerts and firearms, hearing protection is a serious consideration. Respiration is also important. But a great video anyway.
I'm sorry what did you say? LOL just kidding Will, I don't have a gun or go to rock concerts so my hearing is still quite good. But people should use protection at their own discretion.
What are the benefits of using the tile clip system as opposed to using spacers? Is the clip system more to give it pressure, and if that is so, is it necessary for every tiling job or only certain types of tile? I have helped out with a few tile jobs and watched several videos on it, but this is the first time I've seen the clips being used.
Can you do more than one row with the staggered pattern? As in 8 inch overlap one row then maybe 12 inch overlap the other row or 4” the second row? What is the purpose of the underlayment pad? Moisture absorbtiton, leveling, cushion or combination of all three? I have a single story with basically concrete slab, mortar and tile? Good informative video
Looks great! I have the same size tile for my bathroom floor and I had to use a self levelling product first. Do I still need to use a Schulter Underlay? O r can I Mortar and Tile right over top of the cement?
love the videos. refreshing to see someone local! would love to hear the name drop on your favorite spot to buy products, like the cement you referred to in the video..eurotile?
Why/when would you want to go through the trouble and expense to install an underlaymant on top of a concrete floor? Is the main use to keep the tile from cracking if the slab cracks? I laid tile twice in my house. The large area (1,000 sq feet) was over a 10 year old concrete slab. The smaller area was over a 3 month old slab. The new area has a long crack in the tile that was apparently caused by the slab cracking. The large area has never cracked in 20 years. Now I am re-tiling the older larger area. Since the slab is now 30 years old and never cracked the tile, do I need to use that underlayment?
Good morning Mr. Home RenoVision DIY! Are there any premixed adlesives or premixed cements for large tiles 12x24 in that I can buy from Home Depot or Lowe's? Thank you for your time to answer!
You mentioned that red underlayment you put down on top of the concrete that you used it for elevation and that's it. I am laying new tile in our basement laundry and i will prime it and since I don't need to add elevation can I skip that red underlayment product? i also have an infloor heating system that I'm installing. i'm assuming that goes on top of the underlayment if you are recommending I install that. i was also wondering if I need to slope the laundry to the floor drain? if so what cement type do i use for that? I love your videos. they are really helpful and very well done!
Each floor is the same no matter the size. Do 1 tile at a time, have a straight line to follow like a laser, use a leveling clip system, be happy with each tile you lay and don/'t move forward until you are. After a few days you will be surprised with your accomplishment.
I love watching your videos. So now I am renovating 2 bathrooms. However, I have a question. In both bathrooms, there were bathfitters and laminate. When I pulled up the laminante I found concrete and subfloor on the walking area and only subfloor under the bathfitter (28inches deep). My new tub is 30inches. Do I 1) cut the concrete 2 inches to fit the new tub and 2) do I put ply wood over the concrete to prep for tile? .. any help would be appreciated?
Can you use Ditra over a newly installed hardie backer board for shower or areas of water plumbing? Is this too much of a over kill or ok to do? Or possible to do? Or will this harm anything
Question: When you place the self-levelling spacers, do you place them so that they're directly under the tile or on the floor under the tile (leaving some mortar between spacer and tile)?
Awesome, great stuff, about to tile my bathroom on concrete with some 12x24's. Any recommendation on layout, 8" offset, half offset, grid? It's a standard 10x5 bathroom, I know LFT might make it look small but love the tile. Any recommendation on underlayment or thinset? Didn't see a need for the Ditra in a small concrete bathroom. Mapei LFT good on direct concrete?
Holy Blitzkreig. Layout, use the 24" side of the tile along the 10 foot wall. If it is a good porcelain and all the tiles are the same size then I like the stacked effect. This helps the bathroom look much bigger. Keep your grout line to 1/8 " I would at least use a roll on crack isolation membrane to protect against concrete cracks traveling up through the tile. Mapei LFT is a great product on concrete if you don't use a membrane make sure you use a sponge to wet the concrete first for good adhesion. Just wipe a few square feet as you go. Use a grout with the sealer in it to protect against staining. AND GOOD LUCK !!! I hope it all turns out awesome.
Haha, sorry, that German blood. Appreciate the info! I like the contemporary look myself, mulling over stacked. Will see how an isolation membrane fits in, and almost forgot about that thirsty concrete, thanks.. I'll try to post a link when it's done.
with any large subway tiles on floors its much better to go 1/3 offset. Most tiles have a slight bow in them and it makes it much easier to avoid raised edges.
Not sure if that brand is available in UJ.K. But for sure you can get schluter systems ditra membrane there. This brand is called pro va. happy hunting.
For your sub floor prep, you used the ecoprime grip on the concrete so that your thinset would adhere to the concrete then you installed your underlay? Did that get you up to the same elevation as your laminate with the subfloor system?
.......that's great!!.... I need to do my basement but it's humid....what kind of tiles would be best and does that orange subfloor will prevent from the tile coming apart? and is that orange floor uncomfortable on the knees?..... I'm doing this myself.... HELP
What exactly is the purpose of putting that color Mating on concrete I have a floor I need to put tile and I just removed the vinyl tile and hopefully grind it off all the glue with a buffer more like a grinder I do hear you mentioned on this video because of the overspray from the painters Just asking because not sure what the real purpose of that stuff is for
@@tilebyjames I suppose it prevents it from cracking. Purchased a new house with tile directly on concrete in the front entry area. Years later almost impossible to remove it with a rotary hammer, it was bonded tight. Finally got it out with an 80 pound jack hammer!
Hi Jeff, first of all, thanks for the great videos. I watched a bunch of them preparing to redo a bathroom and they are very helpfull. I have a question about the Ditra membrane, I saw a video where they attached the membrane to the plywood, then filled the squares and let it dry out before laying the tile. What are your thoughts on that? Thanks!
Coming from the tile industry, it’s refreshing to see everything explained correctly. Good work as always.
I'm just go ahead and like all your video's man! Because of people like you, taking the time and effort to explain all steps makes it so much more approachable for DIY'ers. I had no experience what so ever, didn't even know the names of the tools I would need for the job. That was only 1 year ago. And now? I bought a house and completely renovated the craps out of it since August last year. Ground floor completed with help of my Father/Uncle in law and now going solo on the 1st floor. From brick wall and concrete floors to finished bedroom and big open dressingroom as well as our attic which is big enough for another room. Can't wait to buy a second house and do it all over again!
Love helping people Sean, these are the stories we love to hear! Cheers!
For laying out tile.. I draw out the perimeter of the room in AutoCAD, and lay the tile pattern down. Drag it around, figure out partial cuts to minimize material used, tweak grout widths, etc.. takes a bit of time, but definitely helps me plan it out.
That require more time, he use less time. I love AutoCAD and also sketchup, but sometimes pen and paper is the way to go.
your videos are my DIY bible. I have watched at least 5 videos on every DIY project i did in my home(all yours). My recent project was to redo a leaking shower(just the lower half). i was given a quot for $6000, i followed your instructions and did it on my own, guess how much i spend ?? $468(includes Few tools). your concept of you can do over kill where ever possible. i did 6 coats of RED GUARD water proofing. Minimum quantity i found was a gallon. i did not want to waste it :).
thank you for all the hard work you do in getting these videos up for us. I've learned a lot on this channel! thank you again!
Our pleasure. Cheers!
POV: you just watched him make a perfect 90 degree cut with a hand held tool that you would use a wet saw to do.
Your videos are very informative. I'd like to ask how you decide when to use the leveling clips, as I've seen you on other videos without them. Also, as far as concrete jobs go, how do you decide if you need that red underlayment or if you can just tile directly over the concrete?
Thank you for all of your informative videos. I am laying some 12 x 24 tile right now, and I sure wish I had bought some of those levelers before I started. They look pretty easy to work with.
Serious question, @13:16 is that what full coverage looks like? On the left side of the tile it looks like it has full coverage because of the pattern that is left. In the middle and the right you can see the horizontal ridges from the trowel lines but in between the trowel lines you don't see the same pattern as on the left. I hope that makes sense.
I did learn something; especially when the walls are not really square it often screws up the job. Thanks Jeff. Am an avid follower of your channel, from Ont, Miss.
You explain in a way that makes it easy to follow. I truly appreciate your videos. Thank you.
Thank you for the comment. We love helping people out with their homes. Cheers!
Great video, good information. You seem very professional. So many haters though, in the comments. Sad to see people can bring such negativtiy to DIY video. Keep the videos coming, I've learned a lot from you.
This is the internet Robin, plenty of folks out there who don't want me to do these videos since they are afraid it will hurt their business. No worries, we release videos twice a week. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY just one tip, over ditra you'll have to use a non-modifid thinset. That is what the factory recomend to use. Everything also, very good my friend.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY can't thank enough for everything, in my country India, we don't very use wooden walls and very rarely use wooden flooring but only in window, doors. and mostly use concrete, cemented items. hence we suffers from edges, levelling, finishing, interior designing etc. we people recently starting to give some priority on interior designing as per budget and hence learning from you experts.
I like most of your complete coverage on full makeover tasks which clears all my engineering errors.
This guy is the best. I still won’t jump into tile, but I’m confident I’ll get there.
Learned a lot and in time for laying down some tiles in my master bathroom. Thanks for the pointers. Very helpful directions in determining where to start and how to manage those corners that are not exactly 90 degrees! I guess a good job is only 10% inspiration and 90% preparation!
Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment. A good job involves a little perspiration as well. but you are correct, the layout is more important than your cutting ability.
......BTW.... THANK YOU VERY MUCH .... I was able to paint my house myself from the help of your videos, and did a lot of work on my house after my tenants destroyed the house left it a mess and without paying rent for 6 months..........I'm waiting for my floor shipment ...I have watched your videos.... let's see if i can do floors from the help of your videos
I use a squirrel cage fan. Open a window near work blowing air out creating a kinda vacuum pulling air from the rest of the house. Customers like less dust. That, by the way, gives clean fresh air in the room.
Hi Guy.. I like how you are not annoying and self centered in all your videos. Very good at illustrating your work in step format. One question. You mentioned you would be putting down 150 sq feet that day. How much do you charge for a days work. Obviously adding heating wire would take more etc but is it $300 labor? 5 or $700.
This guy is fun to watch..he’s a good tradesman
Well this gives me the confidence to try laying woodlook tile in my frontroom dining room and hallway-i start early in the morning 👍👍👍
I feel confident in doing this now! I will do this and when I'm successful I will do my bath! your my hero!
You’re giving me the confidence to start tiling thank you
I'm a apprentice in tiling nd I like to do extra study by watching tiling videos nd dis video in particular has bn very helpful... Great job! Bt I want to know hw u remove d spacers after tiling
Just kick them off. Cheers!
I would screw a straight edge to the floor where the starting line is for the first row of tiles (perpendicular to the laser)
Raul Torres nice method, always something more to learn
Loads of love from Karachi, Pakistan. Planning to do it my self.
Thank you Jeff Thorman, my concern is not about the membrane but more about the mortar you use in this video and the time you wait before you install the tile over,. Read that and let me know what you think about. The type of thin-set mortar used to install DITRA depends on the substrate material. For example, to set DITRA over plywood or OSB, a modified thin-set mortar meeting the requirements of ANSI A118.11 is used. To set DITRA over concrete or gypsum, Schluter-Systems recommends an unmodified thin-set mortar meeting the requirements of ANSI A118.1. Please consult the Schluter-DITRA Installation Handbook before beginning your tile project to confirm the proper materials selection.
This is not Schluter and the requirements are different. Even Schluter knows that the underlay cement has had problems which is why they invented their new cement ALLSET. A little pricey but it works.
would it be better if the lines in cement were perpendicular to the tile so the air has shorter way to escape ?
Nice one.. thank you . I'm starting 16" square floor tiles over a large area with not parallel walls.. should be fun.. And please wear a mask ,that dust aint at all good , especially years up the road.. All the best.
Thanks David, usually do but it gets in the way with shooting video.Cheers
THIS is how you set tile. Very nicely done. Thank you!
Cheers!
thanks for putting out a video that makes me feel like i can get to work after watching.
Hey man, you should take it as a compliment that the only thing these people can find wrong is your dust mask and grinder guard, I give props to anyone that can make a precision cut with that guard on. Very helpful video, doing about 500 sq ft soon, second tile job I’ve ever done😬
my guard was never installed since I need the flexibility as a pro. I can't speak with a mask on. so ....
trawl lines should run along the shortest dimension of the tile to facilitate the air getting out from under the tile. trust me I just watched a NTCA video, I'm an ecspert.
But that is so much more work!
Eleman Online u wrong the way his doing it is right but you can def tell his not a pro
Eleman Online dm7
Not an expert on spelling I see
once u have 85% cover of tile is fine an i not watch anithing i spoke from my experience
I'm installing the same size porcelain tile on a kitchen floor with wooden subfloor.
1. What size was the tile trowel you used?
2. What size was your grout line?
Thanks in advance!
I used to be a Mapei user until I tried Versabond LT from Home Depot.....a much better product! creamy, stays longer in the bucket and super easy to spread. Also Mapei unmodified does not dry that fast! Mapei modified dries way too fast....
13:13 Coverage were closer to 50% because if you can see thinset ridges underneath tile those weren't fully collapsed. because they remained as *lines*.
LOL large format tile cement peaks up like that on purpose when lifted. Nice try!
Great! I wish you could have put down the tile in our home, you look like you know what you are doing! We just did our own new home tile job... as new DIY'ers, it was terrifying, hard and stressful. I hope I like it once we are in and living on it.
Here's hoping. Cheers!
I agree with just about everything i saw on your video. This is just a mild criticism about your cutting Technic. Diamond grinder blades can be very expensive so when i do L cuts i prefer only using grinder for the small cut then use tile cutter for long cut. It saves on the grinder wheel a lot more plus makes a nice clean cut.
do that too. But when I am using tile without a lot of extra I can't risk a bad cut so I use the grinder for the whole cut. This was end of stock tile!
Preparing uneven subfloor for tile by adding another layer of plywood gluing it and then screwing it then Detra but the floor is not flat should i first use self leveler and then the plywood or installing the second layer of ply wood and then self leveler before installing Ditra and tile ? or does not matter thx
The floor tile whisperer, love it!!!
Love the video man keep up the good work after watching your video I feel like I can remodel my own house
I like the fact that you show me every tool you going to use and why and you give a lot of good tips and tricks on how to get it done right and fast
That is exactly why we do what we do. Cheers!
Doing the tiles in my bathroom today. We seem to be keeping in trend with eachother.(despite being on opposite end of the skill and experience spectrums). 👍Nice work as always!
That is very Ironic Willie. Thanks for the thumbs up. I hope things went well with your install!
You make it look easy but I know what very hard work it is laying tile, even small tile.
Gets easier with time and of course good leveling clips.
Thanks for the videos. It doesn't matter how you do the job. Someones always going to pick at it. From Cyprus
Man, you make it look so easy.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
you said 11.5 but do you have to factor your grout spacing in as well or does it not change length enough to worry about
You always do a fantastic work
Thank you. I also agree with the other participants, you should wear a mask when working with dust.
I am about to start my tiling job (diy) and love that leveling system. But haven't seen how you pull it out. Thanks
Awesome. when is the last time you saw a farmer wearing a dust mask.
Home RenoVision DIY Hahaha 😂 beautiful reply
I love the details. Thanks very much
Good tip on plunge cutting the four edges with the grinder
I thought you suppose to trough the thinset the perpendicular to the length of the tile or the direction of the width of the tile?
Only thing I would suggest if your going to use mapei lift thinset which Is a modified thinset and you know schluter says that's a no no to use , skim your ditra with it the day before then your safe to use it otherwise it might take forever to dry .
This is not ditra and modified thinset is allowed for use with this product. But thanks for the idea. It would probably work/ maybe!
So Ive been watching alot of your tiling videos, amazing and very informative ty so much for doing what you do for us DIY people and couples. My question is:
Being new to this do we tile the walls or floor first?
Floors
This guy kicks ass!!
Thanks Hugo, appreciate the comment.
Home Reno Vision DIY thank you!
Shouldn't you use a water cutter for cutting porcelain to avoid chipped edges? Thanks for your many videos with a professional approach to every subject, you truly are a versatile builder and I have appreciated your easy to follow guidelines for each job.
Wish I'd seen your video before I started my tiling project yesterday, especially seeing how you placed the leveling clips. I'm laying 24" x 12" tiles over Ditra XL in a lounge area (180 sq ft) in a brick bond pattern overlapping on thirds and using the Raimondi leveling system. Wasn't sure how best to place the base clips, so I phoned Raimondi USA. I was advised to place just one clip in the middle of each short side join and two clips on each of the long sides positioned in the middle of the 1/3 and 2/3 overlap sections. Did just that and got 5 rows in before I realized I was getting worsening lippage at the T joints - the reason I believe is because the one clip in the middle of the 2/3 overlap section doesn't provide sufficient counter leverage to keep the corner of the tile up. Fortunately the thin-set under the last two rows was still just soft enough to pull up the tiles this morning and scrape it off the ditra without damaging it. But no chance with the first three. In your video you put two clips on the short edge and on the long edges a clip on either side of each joint - so there are three clips around each T joint. That's much more stable. What's more, if you have to stop the job mid floor it means you can leave off and resume later without worrying if the last row is set level or not - with some leveling systems the wedge or equivalent can be loosened again, so up you can lay a 'dry' tile row, but with systems like Raimondi and the one you are using you only get one shot at it. Kicking myself now.
Sounds about right. Most of us Men try to do things without enough information. Once we realize it is going bad we get more. Glad to help.
Thanks, yes, I've switched to your clip configuration you used and I'm not having lippage issues now. Incidentally I was talking to a tiling contractor today and he said he puts just one Raimondi clip on each T joint, that's all. Thinking about it though, that's maybe fine if you are a pro and/or working in a team and can tile an entire room in one shot, but if you are an amateur working alone, like me, it means you can never clamp down the joints on the last row if you have to leave off mid job. So, at the expense of using more clips, I'll stick with what works best for me.
Edit: Another thing to watch for with these leveling clips is that there is a tendency for thin-set to squeeze up under the wedge when they are crimped down with the pliers, making nigh on impossible to get at when cleaning out the grout-lines. So it's important to kick the clips off as early as possible (no more than 2 days after laying the tiles) while the thin-set is still reasonably soft, otherwise it will rapidly harden to the point that the clips can't be kicked off or will snap off above tile level with the remnant embedded in the thin-set plug. Made that mistake and I'm now paying the price for it, having to spend hours removing these plugs as best with a utility knife and hand grout saw.
Nearly fell asleep reading your comment
Aren't you supposed to use kerabon from mapei or non modified thinset on Dtra mat ?
😁
I Love your videos Sir, I tried the levelers and they worked great my only complaint was if I stopped say halfway through a room how do I get the next day of levelers under the already set tile? I had to make sure I completed the entire floor the same day. Would love to have your solution. Thanks
Install the clips even if you are not setting the tile. clean the edges and you will have great success.
it's a shame that nobody I know does this kind of work.....
very professional
The secret is to contact the wholesale suppliers to get a referral.
Hi Jeff. We are in Texas and just flooded for the second time in 2 years with Tropical Storm Imelda a few weeks ago. Would a tile floor like this on concrete be what you would recommend most if we have another flood event? Would the membrane be impervious to mold and water retention? We cannot bear the thought (or afford) having to demolish and relay thousands of dollars worth of flooring again.
You should do a live Q&A. First question: Is drywall taping an art? Do some people have it and some just don't?
We are working on that. going to be soon. fingers crossed. technology is a real pain. And yes it is an art! but with the right amount of sanding anyone can do it. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I can attest to that. No matter how hard I try and get it perfect, it's always terrible :)
So, are you using the membrane because of the overspray from the walls? Is it completely necessary to use an uncoupling membrane if you have level concrete substrate? I'm asking because I want to tile a kitchen and adding all of these extra layers will definitely cause a large transition between my kitchen and living room flooring. So confused and reading all different opinions on if this membrane is needed or not. Also reading reviews that the membrane causes cracks and shifting tiles which is what I was researching this membrane to avoid so I just don't see the point. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Love your work.
Hi Samantha, if you have a concrete floor then you need a crack isolation membrane. They come in 2 varieties. A dimpled one like in this video is to help raise the height of the tile to meet up flush with a hardwood floor. If you want a lower profile then I suggest using the mapei roll on crack isolation membrane. It is available at most tile supply stores. Cheers!
Could RedGards waterproofing and crack prevention membrane be used instead of the Maipei product?
After years of hearing loss on many different types of industrial jobs, rock concerts and firearms, hearing protection is a serious consideration. Respiration is also important. But a great video anyway.
I'm sorry what did you say? LOL just kidding Will, I don't have a gun or go to rock concerts so my hearing is still quite good. But people should use protection at their own discretion.
Born to teach!
How do you attach membrane to concrete? Thanks in advance. Also, did you say continuous rim grinder?
What are the benefits of using the tile clip system as opposed to using spacers? Is the clip system more to give it pressure, and if that is so, is it necessary for every tiling job or only certain types of tile?
I have helped out with a few tile jobs and watched several videos on it, but this is the first time I've seen the clips being used.
I like his work alot
Can you do more than one row with the staggered pattern? As in 8 inch overlap one row then maybe 12 inch overlap the other row or 4” the second row? What is the purpose of the underlayment pad? Moisture absorbtiton, leveling, cushion or combination of all three? I have a single story with basically concrete slab, mortar and tile? Good informative video
I would let this guy tile my floor, quality work.
Thanks, Cheers!
Just awesome videos! The production and editing looks good and the content is detailed but doesn't drag on. Very nice!
Glad you like it! Thanks for the comment.
Looks great! I have the same size tile for my bathroom floor and I had to use a self levelling product first. Do I still need to use a Schulter Underlay? O r can I Mortar and Tile right over top of the cement?
Of cause, you can!!!
Need info on porch paint on concrete. I am sanding off as much as I can, Should I use Redgard or Mapei Aqua over the roughed up paint before tiling?
love the videos. refreshing to see someone local! would love to hear the name drop on your favorite spot to buy products, like the cement you referred to in the video..eurotile?
Why/when would you want to go through the trouble and expense to install an underlaymant on top of a concrete floor? Is the main use to keep the tile from cracking if the slab cracks? I laid tile twice in my house. The large area (1,000 sq feet) was over a 10 year old concrete slab. The smaller area was over a 3 month old slab. The new area has a long crack in the tile that was apparently caused by the slab cracking. The large area has never cracked in 20 years. Now I am re-tiling the older larger area. Since the slab is now 30 years old and never cracked the tile, do I need to use that underlayment?
Hi Jeff. Is there a guide on the proper way to layout, cut small 2” hexagonal floor tiles.
Hi Terry, I prefer to use a grinder but a wet saw would work as well. We will be doing a video on cutting tools and techniques really soon. Cheers!
Sounds silly but is there an easier more foolproof way of measuring cuts?
Hi, what will you recommend for the grout lines? Any specific brand? Thanks for your time
I appreciate all your videos. Thank you !
Love this channel!
Good morning Mr. Home RenoVision DIY! Are there any premixed adlesives or premixed cements for large tiles 12x24 in that I can buy from Home Depot or Lowe's? Thank you for your time to answer!
Thanks for sharing the plunge cut tip... It really helped me.
Love to help. Merry Christmas!
You mentioned that red underlayment you put down on top of the concrete that you used it for elevation and that's it. I am laying new tile in our basement laundry and i will prime it and since I don't need to add elevation can I skip that red underlayment product?
i also have an infloor heating system that I'm installing. i'm assuming that goes on top of the underlayment if you are recommending I install that.
i was also wondering if I need to slope the laundry to the floor drain? if so what cement type do i use for that?
I love your videos. they are really helpful and very well done!
As always, great instructional video. Thanks!
should the first timer do a big floor.. 900 sq ft? Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Each floor is the same no matter the size. Do 1 tile at a time, have a straight line to follow like a laser, use a leveling clip system, be happy with each tile you lay and don/'t move forward until you are. After a few days you will be surprised with your accomplishment.
Do leveling clips cause voids under the tile?
I had that problem, could be remedied by using a deeper trowel or back buttering each tile.
@@Visper84 no they don't, the tile is pulled downwards to level of the on previously fixed
@@Visper84 no they dont. u need to use the appropriate notch sized trowel.
Lol
97%
I love watching your videos
I have terrazzo concrete floors that have a finish on them. What should I use to prep the floor before tiling?
I love watching your videos. So now I am renovating 2 bathrooms. However, I have a question. In both bathrooms, there were bathfitters and laminate. When I pulled up the laminante I found concrete and subfloor on the walking area and only subfloor under the bathfitter (28inches deep). My new tub is 30inches. Do I 1) cut the concrete 2 inches to fit the new tub and 2) do I put ply wood over the concrete to prep for tile? .. any help would be appreciated?
Video Rocked, Thanks!
Can you use Ditra over a newly installed hardie backer board for shower or areas of water plumbing? Is this too much of a over kill or ok to do? Or possible to do? Or will this harm anything
Thanks for the diy video
Thanks for sharing! God bless!
Thanks for commenting. Cheers!
Question: When you place the self-levelling spacers, do you place them so that they're directly under the tile or on the floor under the tile (leaving some mortar between spacer and tile)?
the spacers are used to level and create the grout joint. Cheers!
Awesome, great stuff, about to tile my bathroom on concrete with some 12x24's.
Any recommendation on layout, 8" offset, half offset, grid? It's a standard 10x5 bathroom, I know LFT might make it look small but love the tile.
Any recommendation on underlayment or thinset? Didn't see a need for the Ditra in a small concrete bathroom. Mapei LFT good on direct concrete?
Holy Blitzkreig. Layout, use the 24" side of the tile along the 10 foot wall. If it is a good porcelain and all the tiles are the same size then I like the stacked effect. This helps the bathroom look much bigger. Keep your grout line to 1/8 " I would at least use a roll on crack isolation membrane to protect against concrete cracks traveling up through the tile. Mapei LFT is a great product on concrete if you don't use a membrane make sure you use a sponge to wet the concrete first for good adhesion. Just wipe a few square feet as you go. Use a grout with the sealer in it to protect against staining.
AND GOOD LUCK !!! I hope it all turns out awesome.
Haha, sorry, that German blood. Appreciate the info! I like the contemporary look myself, mulling over stacked. Will see how an isolation membrane fits in, and almost forgot about that thirsty concrete, thanks.. I'll try to post a link when it's done.
That would be very cool Willy Drucker
with any large subway tiles on floors its much better to go 1/3 offset. Most tiles have a slight bow in them and it makes it much easier to avoid raised edges.
Jeff whats the orange underlay youre tiling over can we get it in UK?
Not sure if that brand is available in UJ.K. But for sure you can get schluter systems ditra membrane there. This brand is called pro va. happy hunting.
nice tips; great job; what size spacer did you use. thanks
1/8th. Cheers!
For your sub floor prep, you used the ecoprime grip on the concrete so that your thinset would adhere to the concrete then you installed your underlay? Did that get you up to the same elevation as your laminate with the subfloor system?
It got close enough to use a regular transition. Cheers!
Very informative mate...never mind the nay sayers...cracking vid !!
Very helpful! Answered a lot of our biggest questions (like where to start) and gave us an option besides standard brick pattern.
Great Video. Very clear and concise. Just One question. What kind of blade is on the grinder?
continuous rim diamond blade for porcelain. There are many varieties.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you for your response.
.......that's great!!.... I need to do my basement but it's humid....what kind of tiles would be best and does that orange subfloor will prevent from the tile coming apart? and is that orange floor uncomfortable on the knees?..... I'm doing this myself.... HELP
Nice video. By the way, do you have Video for lay the Red Membrane (at you video 1:15") . Want to know what's steps to lay that first. Thx. 😀
simply trowel out cement and lay it on using a grout float to press it in. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY can you use the same cement for the membrane as you do when you lay the tile? We both know you're awesome!
You are such a lovable person
What exactly is the purpose of putting that color Mating on concrete
I have a floor I need to put tile and I just removed the vinyl tile and hopefully grind it off all the glue with a buffer more like a grinder
I do hear you mentioned on this video because of the overspray from the painters
Just asking because not sure what the real purpose of that stuff is for
You don’t need it , concrete is the best surface to tile over, unless it’s in bad shape, cracking
@@tilebyjames I suppose it prevents it from cracking. Purchased a new house with tile directly on concrete in the front entry area. Years later almost impossible to remove it with a rotary hammer, it was bonded tight. Finally got it out with an 80 pound jack hammer!
Hi Jeff, first of all, thanks for the great videos. I watched a bunch of them preparing to redo a bathroom and they are very helpfull. I have a question about the Ditra membrane, I saw a video where they attached the membrane to the plywood, then filled the squares and let it dry out before laying the tile. What are your thoughts on that? Thanks!
not necessary. fill the holes yes, tile right way!