Really good video. I'm a very experienced DIYer but watching this has given me a couple of things to think about as I embark upon a complete floor replacement of my Spanish villa. Cheers!
Just a tip, with rectangle tiles you can get away with using only 1 leveling clip and wedge on the short sides meaning less work. Also a pencil works great for clearing tile adhesive from your lines before it sets so that your grout shows instead, keeping colour uniform
Yeah im about to do my whole house with tiles now the concrete froor is done and its a big house and my first time. This is by far the best video ive seen and has given me confidence now to do it my self on my own time which will also save a lot of money
Don't need the applicator just do it by hand. As a tiler I only started using these systems about 3 months ago always just used normal spacers. This just makes it a little easier. Make sure to clean the adhesive out of the lines before putting the clips in saves you a job later. Also use normal spacers still as the clips arnt 💯 so cover yourself by using spacers aswell.
Thank you for the video! How much thickness(height) of adhesive should I keep for the following; - Adhesive thickness for laying insulation boards? - Latex thickness after laying underfloor heating mat? - Adhesive thickness for laying 10mm tiles?
1) For insulation boards we recommend a minimum of a 3mm bed of flexible tile adhesive 2) Once installed the heating system should be covered by a minimum of 12mm of your material 3) A little over 1/3 the size of the trowel teeth. So, a 10mm U-notched trowel for example will leave a 3mm bed of adhesive beneath the tile Hope that has answered your questions! Thanks!
At 21:59 the door is closed and the tile goes under the door and in that respect if you are on the other side of the door in the opposite room you will be seeing the tile protruding into the room. At 25:28 you can clearly see how the tile protrudes into the next room and with the door closed you will be able to see this tile. Unless the same tiles are going to be laid next door as well and butt up to these tiles then that's fine but if its a different floor material like carpet or wood then from the room with the other floor material in you should not be able to see the tile protruding you would have a suitable Threshold strip between the two floor materials but you shouldn't be able to see the threshold strip if it's fitted in the correct position directly under the door. The same goes if you are in the room with tiles you shouldn't be able to see the threshold strip or the other floor be it wood or carpet from the tiled room. Just a minor detail, I know, so don't shoot me.
Craig and his team have purposefully built this bathroom set for demonstration purposes! We have more video guides for this type of installation on our channel. Thanks
All good thank you - both walls and floor done using this video. One tile is a tiny bit lose, it’s not perfect upon close inspection but hey it was my first time and the labour was FREE!
When installing floor tiles on a non-level floor, the first step is to address the unevenness. Begin by using a self-leveling compound to create a smooth, level surface. This will ensure that your tiles sit properly and that grout lines remain even. After the compound has dried, you can proceed with your tile installation as usual-laying down adhesive, placing tiles, and cutting them to fit. For best results, check level frequently during installation and use tile spacers for uniform gaps.
I think I put toooo much Adhesive under the tiles, I put the adhesive on the Concrete floor and on the back of the tile and now they are moving after two days. Would it be the cold weather that is making it take so long to dry? 😢
It's possible, cold weather can definitely slow down the drying time of adhesive, especially for flooring products like tile adhesive. However, another issue could be the excessive adhesive you applied. Applying adhesive to both the floor and the back of the tiles (also known as "double spreading") can sometimes cause more adhesive than needed, leading to a "wet" or overly thick bond that takes longer to set. It can also create air pockets that might cause the tiles to shift if the adhesive hasn't properly bonded or cured.
It ius best practise to remove excess adhesive from around eact tile prior to llaying the next tile.this practise also prevents the grout opening being filled with adhesive keeping the tile clean
And you can cut the door jambs with a jam saw or a grinder or Dremel or hacksaw and it would eliminate the cardboard template etc etc etc and it looks better
Back buttering is especially important for tiles which are slightly bowed, uncalibrated or where the back of the tile is uneven. British Standards state that 80-100% coverage is needed with large format tiles and 100% for any tiles in wet areas, regardless of size or material. Thanks
For tiles that measure 20 x 20 cm (about 8 x 8 inches), using a tile leveling system can be very helpful, especially if you're aiming for a professional-looking, flat finish with even grout lines. While it's not strictly necessary for smaller tiles like 20 x 20 cm, it can still make the installation process smoother and improve the final result, especially if your floor or surface isn't perfectly level.
It is cleaner to place an off-cut of tile close to the moulding useing it as a height guide and cut out the excess moulding allowing the tile to be fitted under the moulding.
One question I would like to know. Why do you center the tiles on one wall and not the other so you have equal cuts at all 4 sides? i.e so you don't end up with a small cut at the door side. I also cut the architrave and slide the tile underneath it. I find it much neater. I also would've thought that it would've been much better to have a fuller tile where most traffic is rather than a cut tile. Less likely to crack then. This is how I've always tiled my floors. Yes, I know flexi adhesive helps with this, but I would rather have a fuller tile at the door entrance. I'm also very sceptical of using the leveling system incase it causes any voids underneath the tiles. Has anyone ever been called back to cracked tiles with this system? I would be really interested to know thanks.
You can do if that is the right look you want! As Craig explains, get some graph paper, your measurements and then sketch out what your tiles will look like if you start from a particular side, or even in the very centre as you say! Thanks for watching!
Hi, yes it is recommended that you use one installation method, and depending on grout size and your finish you will need to leave space for this. Thanks
im about to remove my old ceramic from my wall to put on a new one. Do i need to remove ALL the old concrete on the wall so that new concrete can be put on? Or can i just put new ceramic on old concrete walls?
If the concrete is strong that is already on the wall, it's recommended you use a blinding agent between that and the new stuff you'll put on. Alternatively you could take it off and start again. Thanks
Hi mountain! I don’t suppose you could help me with a set out for my tiles? I am am struggling to work out how to do it as it goes up my entrance hall and then into the dining room?
Floor tiles must use & a thick solid adhesive bed (100% fully supported) or you risk them cracking under any load; for tiles up to 300mm x 300mm use a trowel with 20mm round notches, 10mm deep, at 28mm centres. For tiles larger than that, use a large format trowel which has a slightly deeper notch - 20mm round notch, 13mm deep, at 28mm centres. Wall tiles don’t generally need a solid adhesive bed but on anything over 200mm square, I use a solid bed trowel with a 10mm deep notch
Really good video. I'm a very experienced DIYer but watching this has given me a couple of things to think about as I embark upon a complete floor replacement of my Spanish villa. Cheers!
Many thanks
We're pleased you found our video helpful!
Just a tip, with rectangle tiles you can get away with using only 1 leveling clip and wedge on the short sides meaning less work.
Also a pencil works great for clearing tile adhesive from your lines before it sets so that your grout shows instead, keeping colour uniform
Nice tip!
Yeah im about to do my whole house with tiles now the concrete froor is done and its a big house and my first time. This is by far the best video ive seen and has given me confidence now to do it my self on my own time which will also save a lot of money
You can do it! Good luck!
I'm about to tile for the 1st time very educational thanks mate🙏
You're welcome, we're pleased you find our tutorial useful!
great video Craig you are a legend. BB1 what a legend!
Many thanks
We agree, Craig is brilliant! Thank you for watching our video!
Hi Craig and TM, this is the best video I have found on this. Very helpful, thanks :)
Mnay thanks
Thank you very much for the kind words, we're glad you found our tutorial helpful!
Excellent video, thank you.
Brilliant detail and explanation.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Don't need the applicator just do it by hand. As a tiler I only started using these systems about 3 months ago always just used normal spacers. This just makes it a little easier. Make sure to clean the adhesive out of the lines before putting the clips in saves you a job later. Also use normal spacers still as the clips arnt 💯 so cover yourself by using spacers aswell.
Good tip thanks
Nice tip!
Great presentation🎉
Cheers
I always cut the Architrave so that the tiles fit under it.
Great tip!
Thank you for the video!
How much thickness(height) of adhesive should I keep for the following;
- Adhesive thickness for laying insulation boards?
- Latex thickness after laying underfloor heating mat?
- Adhesive thickness for laying 10mm tiles?
1) For insulation boards we recommend a minimum of a 3mm bed of flexible tile adhesive
2) Once installed the heating system should be covered by a minimum of 12mm of your material
3) A little over 1/3 the size of the trowel teeth. So, a 10mm U-notched trowel for example will leave a 3mm bed of adhesive beneath the tile
Hope that has answered your questions! Thanks!
Really informative, thank you.
Your Welcome
You're very welcome!
Great detailed guide….thanks.
Thank you
You're very welcome, glad you found our video helpful!
Very helpful indeed
Cheers, glad out helpful
We're glad you found our tutorial useful!
Learnt so much for this video , will you need an apprentice , i would like to wirk with you and learn more
Glad you leant from it. thats why we do these videos,
Thank you for checking out our tutorial!
At 21:59 the door is closed and the tile goes under the door and in that respect if you are on the other side of the door in the opposite room you will be seeing the tile protruding into the room. At 25:28 you can clearly see how the tile protrudes into the next room and with the door closed you will be able to see this tile. Unless the same tiles are going to be laid next door as well and butt up to these tiles then that's fine but if its a different floor material like carpet or wood then from the room with the other floor material in you should not be able to see the tile protruding you would have a suitable Threshold strip between the two floor materials but you shouldn't be able to see the threshold strip if it's fitted in the correct position directly under the door. The same goes if you are in the room with tiles you shouldn't be able to see the threshold strip or the other floor be it wood or carpet from the tiled room. Just a minor detail, I know, so don't shoot me.
We build sets to shoot a number of different videos, its to a real house!
Craig and his team have purposefully built this bathroom set for demonstration purposes! We have more video guides for this type of installation on our channel. Thanks
Good video, off I go to tile the new bathroom!
Thats the spirt
How did you get on
All good thank you - both walls and floor done using this video. One tile is a tiny bit lose, it’s not perfect upon close inspection but hey it was my first time and the labour was FREE!
Good luck!
Was done in April and no issues - thanks to this video!
It's all well and good if you have a level floor.
Please explain how to overcome a non level floor.
When installing floor tiles on a non-level floor, the first step is to address the unevenness. Begin by using a self-leveling compound to create a smooth, level surface. This will ensure that your tiles sit properly and that grout lines remain even. After the compound has dried, you can proceed with your tile installation as usual-laying down adhesive, placing tiles, and cutting them to fit. For best results, check level frequently during installation and use tile spacers for uniform gaps.
I didn’t know you could paint the sealer on the whole floor.. just sealing the grout lines is a pain .. thanks for the video.. entertaining 👍
Yes certainly
You're very welcome, we're pleased you like our video!
I think I put toooo much Adhesive under the tiles, I put the adhesive on the Concrete floor and on the back of the tile and now they are moving after two days. Would it be the cold weather that is making it take so long to dry? 😢
It's possible, cold weather can definitely slow down the drying time of adhesive, especially for flooring products like tile adhesive. However, another issue could be the excessive adhesive you applied. Applying adhesive to both the floor and the back of the tiles (also known as "double spreading") can sometimes cause more adhesive than needed, leading to a "wet" or overly thick bond that takes longer to set. It can also create air pockets that might cause the tiles to shift if the adhesive hasn't properly bonded or cured.
It ius best practise to remove excess adhesive from around eact tile prior to llaying the next tile.this practise also prevents the grout opening being filled with adhesive keeping the tile clean
Good tip thanks
Nice tip!
And you can cut the door jambs with a jam saw or a grinder or Dremel or hacksaw and it would eliminate the cardboard template etc etc etc and it looks better
Thats right
Yes you could!
Hii, What are the guidelines for needing to back butter the tiles?
Back buttering is especially important for tiles which are slightly bowed, uncalibrated or where the back of the tile is uneven. British Standards state that 80-100% coverage is needed with large format tiles and 100% for any tiles in wet areas, regardless of size or material.
Thanks
Hi, Would you need a tile levelling system for tiles that measure 20 x 20cm? If so, is the wedge type the best to use? Thanks.
For tiles that measure 20 x 20 cm (about 8 x 8 inches), using a tile leveling system can be very helpful, especially if you're aiming for a professional-looking, flat finish with even grout lines. While it's not strictly necessary for smaller tiles like 20 x 20 cm, it can still make the installation process smoother and improve the final result, especially if your floor or surface isn't perfectly level.
@ thank you. I did use the levelling system and it worked very well.
What do you do other side of the door where the floor level is much lower??
Eat your heart out 😹😹
For which bit? Thanks
It is cleaner to place an off-cut of tile close to the moulding useing it as a height guide and cut out the excess moulding allowing the tile to be fitted under the moulding.
Thats right it works well
Yes that would work very nicely!
🎉nice
Thank you! Check out our other videos for more great guides!
One question I would like to know. Why do you center the tiles on one wall and not the other so you have equal cuts at all 4 sides? i.e so you don't end up with a small cut at the door side. I also cut the architrave and slide the tile underneath it. I find it much neater. I also would've thought that it would've been much better to have a fuller tile where most traffic is rather than a cut tile. Less likely to crack then. This is how I've always tiled my floors. Yes, I know flexi adhesive helps with this, but I would rather have a fuller tile at the door entrance. I'm also very sceptical of using the leveling system incase it causes any voids underneath the tiles. Has anyone ever been called back to cracked tiles with this system? I would be really interested to know thanks.
You can do if that is the right look you want! As Craig explains, get some graph paper, your measurements and then sketch out what your tiles will look like if you start from a particular side, or even in the very centre as you say! Thanks for watching!
IF you are going to install 300 x 300 tiles, do you use one installation method and are the spaces you leave not many of the usual small ones?
Hi, yes it is recommended that you use one installation method, and depending on grout size and your finish you will need to leave space for this. Thanks
Nice video indeed, but myself I usually start my floor tile in the centre of the house 🏠, coz most of the time this houses are not straight...
Nice tip!
im about to remove my old ceramic from my wall to put on a new one. Do i need to remove ALL the old concrete on the wall so that new concrete can be put on? Or can i just put new ceramic on old concrete walls?
For my balcony I have removed all the concrete as much as I could. Idk if you can just leave it
Put on top
If the concrete is strong that is already on the wall, it's recommended you use a blinding agent between that and the new stuff you'll put on. Alternatively you could take it off and start again. Thanks
Hi mountain! I don’t suppose you could help me with a set out for my tiles? I am am struggling to work out how to do it as it goes up my entrance hall and then into the dining room?
Plan it out
Hi! Yes you could draw a sketch to scale of your area, get your tile sizes and draw it out! Thanks!
What is the name of the sealsnt please.
Hi! Our range is on our website, thanks - www.tilemountain.co.uk/sealing-and-cleaning
Unless you're not working by piece work if you charging by the hour I definitely recommend cardboard template
Well template for amateur
Hi, this is just a guide for DIYers, thanks
What’s the minimum bed size for a floor tile pal? Struggling for bight on a external door
Floor tiles must use & a thick solid adhesive bed (100% fully supported) or you risk them cracking under any load; for tiles up to 300mm x 300mm use a trowel with 20mm round notches, 10mm deep, at 28mm centres. For tiles larger than that, use a large format trowel which has a slightly deeper notch - 20mm round notch, 13mm deep, at 28mm centres. Wall tiles don’t generally need a solid adhesive bed but on anything over 200mm square, I use a solid bed trowel with a 10mm deep notch
What leveling system can use if tiles have small stones texture, wich are uneven, is not a plane surface!
Depends on your size! Craig was using the Mustang levelling system
How come you put that tidy piece next to the wall? I would've been fired for that.
How so? Thanks
What is the size of spacer you use?
Depends on the size you want for your grout! Craig was using 3mm. Thanks
Brother. I generally just pull the pins off the hinges. When removing doors.. but hey that's just me
Depends what hinges you have!
Is the floor concrete?
No, it was a wooden floor that had cement boards applied first so that it could be tiled over
Watch the video again
Hi! It was a concrete cement board that Craig has tiled over, check out that video on our channel!
How to control the thickness of tiles？
Do you mean with adhesive on or just in general? thanks
A "roober" mallet ?
Rubber!
👍👍😊
Thank you!
Always always always back butter
Always an option yes, just depends on the tile sizes
how to tile a floor for 10k
Cheers
Much cheaper than that!