Had the same thing happen on a my 96 Silverado 5.7 Vortec. I had to use a cape chisel and split the fitting in two. Got it all out, and put an old school fitting with a bib in. Took the push in fitting out along with the hose and replaced with new hose end to end. Used a hose clamp on both ends and no more issues. On the 96 5.7 this fitting is on the front of the passenger side of the intake so using a cape chisel was fairly easy. But I do have a smaller version of the tool you used. And man your right these things are awesome!!
Hello Jimmy. Great video concerning this topic. I had replaced one on gmc truck 18 years ago. Made me sick as part cracked upon removal. Called Napa auto parts, they chuckled then said come on down. Sold me easy out removal tool and new brass connection. I used new part, new hose with new radiator clamp. Still going strong! Thanks again Jimmy for helping others, your the man!
The biggest difference between the pro and the amateur is their versatility when dealing with misadventures, like this. Great job to get yourself out of trouble, and good for you to post the experience. The old style method to clearing an engine and heater core of coolant debris was to attach a garden hose and flush it out, we even installed fittings to do that. Very effective but not so easy to recycle the large volume of fluid.
I was so happy to hear someone else complain about car "quick connects" which are used on many hoses. I HATE them darn things!!!! I'm a retired ASE master mechanic who worked at a Dodge dealer. Mopar used the junk quick connects on too many different hoses that all carry different fluids. I'm sure you remember Dodge's recall on them. The factory connects had plastic inserts locking the trans cooler line to the case fitting. The recall involved replacing the fittings with metal locking inserts. I was in one of the vehicles that promted the recall. A friend and fellow master mechanic and I were working on a 3/4 ton van for an intermittant misfire only under a load. Needless a lot of "power braking" occurred as we tried to hunt down the missfire. All of a sudden (the eng cover was removed) the engine was a ball of fire. The "power braking" caused the plastic insert to melt and fail. We all know that the most heat from an auto trans is from the torque converter, especially if "power braking". Because of the misfire, I'm sure the catylitic converter was much hotter than normal. It was the perfect storm for a fire. When the connector failed it sprayed hot ATF directly onto the hot catylist and boom!!! No property damage or injury occurred, thank God! A couple weeks later we had a factory rep come and examine the van, taking pictures of the root cause of the fire. A few months later the recall was announced. At the same time we had a new 4x4 on our lot that burned so bad it looked like a 50 year old rustbucket. Hose clamps have been working since the first automobiles and they still do a perfect job. So why change? MONEY! It's cheaper and faster to connect a quick connect at the assembly line, saving time and the ultimate greedy goal, saving money. I heard that from a factory employee so I'm sure it's true. My opinion of the money saving quick connects are that they are dangerous. The factory connectors rust and break, then the mechanic has no choice to rig up something that works or wait a few days for the local dealer can get the part. I have some on the heater hoses on my car and I dread if one of them were to leak. What used to be a simple repair with only a screwdriver is now a major deal between the parts availability and the numerous special tools that releases the connectors. I wish I had one of my 50s or 60s cars from the past. They were 200% easier to work on!!!
Nice! I went to lowes hardware and got a barbed water hose fitting. I forget the size. Cut off metal piece of heater hose. I used 2 hose clamps. Eliminated quick connect altogether.
I’ve read on the gmt400 forum that there is a little restrictor in the original fitting. Something about keeping the pressure lower so the heater core doesn’t burst.
I did the same. I have metal heater hoses behind my engine on my Isuzu Trooper. It has short hoses from the core to the pipes then the metal pipes, then more hoses. Then a metal pipe again into the manifold. Ripped it all out and got 1 hose with a 90' molded end. Threw in a 5/8" barb into the manifold. Now I just have 1 connection and each end. Why they couldn't have done it this way back in 1991 I have no clue?
Really good information. I ran into this today, I had a small leAk for years now.. I just ordered the Lisle extractor bit from Home Depot of all places. $9 with tax and shipping free. Better than the big three parts houses wanting $23-$25... I want this to be a one and done job so I'm going with a npc threaded pipe fitting and hose clamping..I've been chasing this leak a long time..just today I decided to try and wiggle the quick connection and we'll, no wonder it was leaking..
Hit mine with the Mapp torch and came right out, have 215k on my 5.7. Had my distributor out all ready though. Honestly I use the torch to heat any fastener up a little when I am even questioning if it is siezed/threadlocked or thread sealed. Rarely break anything, dad was a mechanic and taught me that heat is your best friend👍
@@1RoadGarage Buy a bar from the hardware store and keep it in your tool box. When the ends start to flare out to much cut them off. Should have it for a long time and you won't damage any tools that you paid good money for. Or if you know someone with metal scraps you might be able to get it free. You can also get a long one to cut into different lengths. If you have an old tire iron that you don't care about anymore you could cut the ends on that to get your bar too.
I just didn't this job too. Thank you for the advice. The tool worked like a charm. I didn't have a deep 27mm so I used a wrench 27mm 🔧 and just broke it off since I knew no one ever took these off complete 😄😁
That happened to my 1996 Chevrolet Silverado truck 5.7 liter 7 years ago. It was a nightmare getting the remnants of that "pot-metal" from the intake manifold. That cool removal tool was not available to me. The damage was extensive to the threads in the manifold from dissimilar metal corrosion. Had to over size drill and tap to fit the earlier version heater hose adapter made of steel GM used for decades before. No matter what I used to seal the threads the intake metal was not strong enough to handle proper torque pressure resulting with a very slow leak that I just dealt with. With daily commute it lost about 1 quart per month. 3 years later I replaced the engine due to severe rod bearing clatter not related to this scenario. Bought this truck at a salvage sale with unknown history. Good to see I am not alone with mid 90's GM woes lol Love your videos Jimmy!
i have broke a few of those and have never seen that tool before. nice tip. i convert them to a 5/8 hose with a nipple and get rid of the crappy quick connects. they are junk
Glad it all worked out for you. I have faith in prayer; Lisle tools have tested my faith at times. I would not have trusted that one not to crumble like some of their's I've used.
I had to do that with my 2005 burb. Wasnt fun. My 96 burb havnt done it yet and it has 226,000 miles on it. Thank u buddy again for another great video
I had a 94 Chevy Silverado c1500 and i had this happen but my fitting didnt break off inside the manifold. The guy at the parts house said it was a common failure and he showed me an update to eliminate that quick disconnect for the old school hose clamp method.
1road; Ive been following you for a while now because I have a 96 "burban" k1500 ls with the 5.7l. I absolutely love the thing. My wife thinks im crazy but I have a 2020 $55000 F250 sitting in the driveway but would prefer to drive the bourbon. Just FYI, I broke the fitting on mine as well but needed to replace the intake gaskets anyway. It was idling fairly rough. The are cheap plastic that literally crumbled. I used some Felpros made from steel. While I was there I decided to go ahead and buy the upgraded spider injectors, about $400. I'm glad I did because the thing now has a lot more power runs smooth like brand new and gets great gas mileage. As you probaly already know, I very seldom have to put the thing in 4 wheel drive on snow and ice because the thing is so heavy It gets great traction in 2 wd. It rides so smooth for a 4x4. It has 260,000 miles and doesnt use any oil. I hope the thing last another 260,000 miles and out lives me. I appreciate your passion to keep yours rolling because Im learning from your videos. Thanks so much.
So glad to hear! Somehow they’re just more fun when you don’t have so much money in them right?? It’s like a toy you can fix/modify yourself. Pretty cool man!!
Trying to change out the quick connect to the radiator hose that is next to the heater hose @ the firewall on my 2009 Chevy suburban. It has the white tabs on the sides. That quick disconnect tool isn’t working.
I just did mine today sprayed it with PB blaster then used my impact gun on it broke it free then snapped the head off, walked the rest of it out with a pair of pliers, worked great, definitely get that other tool just Incase your luck isn't as good that way u have a plan b or a plan c, good luck y'all.
Curious why you didn't use an intake manifolt adapter that ended in a male hose fitting, so you could simply clamp the hose over it, vs using the end that took that troublesome GM plastic and metal connecter
I had to redo mine on my 6.5 turbo diesel i put a ball valve on mine on the motor side and one on the radiator side so if my heater core started leaking or blow up like mine did I hade a way to shut off water flow and keep going to get home just an idea hope it helps cause it helped me alot
I would think that a screw extractor would do the same thing. This one is splined. But the tapered twist screw extractors would also pull that out. Nice one Jimmy...🍻
Go to Walmart and buy the hypertough hand sledge. It has become my go to hammer while working on vehicles. It has enough mass to deliver the needed energy, but is small enough to get in tight places. It's worth it.
had the same issue with my 92 explorer although they press it in the manifold. Had to take it off have the machine shop heat it up and remove it. They then put 3/8 np threads in so I could use a brass fitting with a barb. The factory pipe 3" long was 37.00 and steel. Why Brass isn't used because it won't rust I have no idea.
Or try an internal pipe wrench. I bought a set of these in a few sizes long ago and they've come in quite handy over the years. Some of the angles and obstacles become quite a challenge though, as you discovered.
Did you drain all the coolant before replacing ? I need to do the same job and was hoping I didn't have to drain all the coolant to change the connector . Thanks
Been there dont that and never had even half the trouble you had and the one I replaced was broken from age and useing the truck like a truck popped out the leftover threaded end with my trusty lisle tool having read the card the tool came on and driving it fully into the part to be removed broke it loose and removed it without the drama Jimmy put into it yes I did thread in the replacement part made of steel as I dropped it and retrieved it with a magnet teflon taped it and put it all together after cleaning g and polishing and reassembling it all my 94 chevy w/t1500 was back to work in 40 minutes well keep it shiney side up jimmy
The tool is a version of an "easy out". This scenario is one reason why every home mechanic needs a heat gun. When you first started and applied PB Blaster, you should have done that right after you shut the engine off from normal operating temp (same for R&R of O2 sensors). Because the the female threaded boss will expand faster than the hose connector, the heat with crate a minute gap or path for the penetrant. Let it set until cool to touch. This is usually enough to get out the water jacket connectors that live in a highly corrosive environment. After it broke, if you had heated the remaining piece in the manifold (actually the boss around it best you can) with a heat gun, the female threaded portion (the threaded manifold boss) will expand faster than the broken male threaded piece. The penetrant will suck into the threads and they will let go of each other quicker/easier. Easy outs don't always work but you can help them by using heat. Sometimes that doesn't work either unfortunately. Then it's pull the manifold time and choose between getting a different manifold or taking yours to a machine shop. Be aware that these threaded fittings that go into water jackets and water pumps are almost always "tapered threads", AKA "pipe threads". Over tighten the new one too much and you'll crack the threaded boss it screws into.
I got a 1997 express with the 5.7,haven't got there yet due to having only 144k miles but at least I have an idea now,thanks Jimmy for loosing your mind for us.
This is a side note but that extratror had some of the worst machining i've seen in a while. lol I'm glad it worked for you though, y'all take care and have a good one. See you in the next one! Also "Damn you Scuba Steve" cracked me up thank you for the laugh. :)
Good job Steve, I know both of the feelings you had all to well, First feeling "WTF am I going to do now!" And then comes "YES it worked!" Also, what's the update on those L.E.D.'s you installed on your rear lic plate? Are they both still working? Thanks 4 sharing.
Since the old line on my pickup was starting to rust I did some preventative maintenance and just changed the line to a rubber hose. when I changed out the old fitting it didn’t break and I didn’t think much of it until I saw this
Soaked mine for hours, used a socket kept it straight and it came right off. The dorman replacement sucks though and I ended up eliminating the quick connect and used a hose and clamp
No one:
1Road: “Damn you Scuba Steve!!” 😂
Hahah!!! I was wondering if anyone would get that!! Thanks bro!
What a saga -- it had tragedy, fear, hope, struggle, and finally triumph. Now, I too can follow the hero's journey -- with less fear.
😂😂😂
Had the same thing happen on a my 96 Silverado 5.7 Vortec. I had to use a cape chisel and split the fitting in two. Got it all out, and put an old school fitting with a bib in. Took the push in fitting out along with the hose and replaced with new hose end to end. Used a hose clamp on both ends and no more issues. On the 96 5.7 this fitting is on the front of the passenger side of the intake so using a cape chisel was fairly easy. But I do have a smaller version of the tool you used. And man your right these things are awesome!!
Hello Jimmy. Great video concerning this topic. I had replaced one on gmc truck 18 years ago. Made me sick as part cracked upon removal. Called Napa auto parts, they chuckled then said come on down. Sold me easy out removal tool and new brass connection. I used new part, new hose with new radiator clamp. Still going strong! Thanks again Jimmy for helping others, your the man!
Awesome!!
I'm so glad I found your channel, Im having to take a day off work to fix this after having to change my heater core...
The biggest difference between the pro and the amateur is their versatility when dealing with misadventures, like this. Great job to get yourself out of trouble, and good for you to post the experience. The old style method to clearing an engine and heater core of coolant debris was to attach a garden hose and flush it out, we even installed fittings to do that. Very effective but not so easy to recycle the large volume of fluid.
Nice! Thanks!!
I was so happy to hear someone else complain about car "quick connects" which are used on many hoses. I HATE them darn things!!!! I'm a retired ASE master mechanic who worked at a Dodge dealer. Mopar used the junk quick connects on too many different hoses that all carry different fluids. I'm sure you remember Dodge's recall on them. The factory connects had plastic inserts locking the trans cooler line to the case fitting. The recall involved replacing the fittings with metal locking inserts. I was in one of the vehicles that promted the recall. A friend and fellow master mechanic and I were working on a 3/4 ton van for an intermittant misfire only under a load. Needless a lot of "power braking" occurred as we tried to hunt down the missfire. All of a sudden (the eng cover was removed) the engine was a ball of fire. The "power braking" caused the plastic insert to melt and fail. We all know that the most heat from an auto trans is from the torque converter, especially if "power braking". Because of the misfire, I'm sure the catylitic converter was much hotter than normal. It was the perfect storm for a fire. When the connector failed it sprayed hot ATF directly onto the hot catylist and boom!!! No property damage or injury occurred, thank God! A couple weeks later we had a factory rep come and examine the van, taking pictures of the root cause of the fire. A few months later the recall was announced. At the same time we had a new 4x4 on our lot that burned so bad it looked like a 50 year old rustbucket. Hose clamps have been working since the first automobiles and they still do a perfect job. So why change? MONEY! It's cheaper and faster to connect a quick connect at the assembly line, saving time and the ultimate greedy goal, saving money. I heard that from a factory employee so I'm sure it's true. My opinion of the money saving quick connects are that they are dangerous. The factory connectors rust and break, then the mechanic has no choice to rig up something that works or wait a few days for the local dealer can get the part. I have some on the heater hoses on my car and I dread if one of them were to leak. What used to be a simple repair with only a screwdriver is now a major deal between the parts availability and the numerous special tools that releases the connectors. I wish I had one of my 50s or 60s cars from the past. They were 200% easier to work on!!!
Nice! I went to lowes hardware and got a barbed water hose fitting. I forget the size. Cut off metal piece of heater hose. I used 2 hose clamps. Eliminated quick connect altogether.
I considered that. If it fails again that’s the route I’ll go too 👍
I’ve read on the gmt400 forum that there is a little restrictor in the original fitting. Something about keeping the pressure lower so the heater core doesn’t burst.
I did the same. I have metal heater hoses behind my engine on my Isuzu Trooper. It has short hoses from the core to the pipes then the metal pipes, then more hoses. Then a metal pipe again into the manifold. Ripped it all out and got 1 hose with a 90' molded end. Threw in a 5/8" barb into the manifold. Now I just have 1 connection and each end. Why they couldn't have done it this way back in 1991 I have no clue?
Really good information. I ran into this today, I had a small leAk for years now.. I just ordered the Lisle extractor bit from Home Depot of all places. $9 with tax and shipping free. Better than the big three parts houses wanting $23-$25... I want this to be a one and done job so I'm going with a npc threaded pipe fitting and hose clamping..I've been chasing this leak a long time..just today I decided to try and wiggle the quick connection and we'll, no wonder it was leaking..
Thank you for speaking clearly.
Thank You! I am going to replace it as PM. I ordered the tool. Your style of videos are so refreshing!
Awesome, thanks. I just had this very issue this weekend, my 1994 k2500 is now down until I go buy this tool tomorrow.
Hit mine with the Mapp torch and came right out, have 215k on my 5.7. Had my distributor out all ready though. Honestly I use the torch to heat any fastener up a little when I am even questioning if it is siezed/threadlocked or thread sealed. Rarely break anything, dad was a mechanic and taught me that heat is your best friend👍
That crossed my mind but just have never used that method before so didn’t want to burn up a gasket or something... 🤷🏻
Oh yeah works every time.
I was thinking something similar. I have a torch but usually try my heat gun first.
This vid and this tool totally saved my life. I used a breaker bar for extra leverage.
When you can't reach with a hammer always use a sacraficial extension and hit from that end.
Agree! Just didn’t have one so used my semi sacrificial 1/2” ratchet instead😉
@@1RoadGarage Buy a bar from the hardware store and keep it in your tool box. When the ends start to flare out to much cut them off. Should have it for a long time and you won't damage any tools that you paid good money for. Or if you know someone with metal scraps you might be able to get it free. You can also get a long one to cut into different lengths. If you have an old tire iron that you don't care about anymore you could cut the ends on that to get your bar too.
@@1RoadGarage Using a ratchet for a drift = terrible.
@@wantblackwolf Buy a brass bar, it won't deform steel parts. I have a foot long brass bar that I've had in my tool box for decades.
Jimmy, do more vids. People are home and want more content. Haven’t seen you in a while and I’m sure would like to.
On it!!
I just didn't this job too. Thank you for the advice. The tool worked like a charm. I didn't have a deep 27mm so I used a wrench 27mm 🔧 and just broke it off since I knew no one ever took these off complete 😄😁
Those fittings are known for cracking or leaking. I put in all of mine the old style and used a hose clamp instead. Never had one break or leak again
Nice! I did consider that. If it ever fails again I’ll go that route for sure.
That happened to my 1996 Chevrolet Silverado truck 5.7 liter 7 years ago. It was a nightmare getting the remnants of that "pot-metal" from the intake manifold. That cool removal tool was not available to me. The damage was extensive to the threads in the manifold from dissimilar metal corrosion. Had to over size drill and tap to fit the earlier version heater hose adapter made of steel GM used for decades before. No matter what I used to seal the threads the intake metal was not strong enough to handle proper torque pressure resulting with a very slow leak that I just dealt with. With daily commute it lost about 1 quart per month. 3 years later I replaced the engine due to severe rod bearing clatter not related to this scenario. Bought this truck at a salvage sale with unknown history. Good to see I am not alone with mid 90's GM woes lol Love your videos Jimmy!
Holy smokes! Thanks for the comment and for watching!!
i have broke a few of those and have never seen that tool before. nice tip. i convert them to a 5/8 hose with a nipple and get rid of the crappy quick connects. they are junk
Same here, did it on my mother's 96 suburban
Very good video! Thanks!
Thank YOU for the input! Keeps me going. 👍🤙
Thanks again for another great tutorial !!!
Thank you Scuba Steve..
Glad i watched bc mine jus broke yesterday on my 99 tahoe n they told me u gotta replace the whole intake
I love the Scuba Steve reference.
Hahah
Glad it all worked out for you. I have faith in prayer; Lisle tools have tested my faith at times. I would not have trusted that one not to crumble like some of their's I've used.
Best vid yet on this tool!!!
I GOT THE TOOL !!!!!!! DAMN GOOD VIDEO !!!!!! PERFECT SOLUTION !!!!!
380k on my Suburban and i've never changed this haha, its gonna be a blast
I had to do that with my 2005 burb. Wasnt fun. My 96 burb havnt done it yet and it has 226,000 miles on it. Thank u buddy again for another great video
Worked like a charm. Just make sure you hammer it all the way in or it’ll slip. Thanks for the tip!
"GREAT" tip...THANK you!!!
Now I need to go check my 95 gmc g2500 van I think I have the same setup thanks for a great video
Think mine is probably the same
you did a good job thanks for shering it!!.
Will the tool work on a connector made of PVC for coolant bypass hose?
Lisle makes some good specialty stuff...thanks Jimmy...it's been awhile....hope all is well with you and yours...
They make a similiar tool for replacing the broken tube of the shower head, or its the same tool, repurposed, great job!!!!
What was that tool you used? I have a bad intake manifold heater quick disconnect on my 1997 chevy c1500 suburban
Great video Jimmy!! Myself and my 95 thank you!!
Nice job! Did you wash away that Dex Cool residue in the engine bay? If it dries, it can rust things up
Extractor to the rescue 👍🏻 long time no see Sir!
Yes! I’m back. Videos to come as usual!
GOOD, I'VE MISSED YOUR VIDS. SIR.
I had a 94 Chevy Silverado c1500 and i had this happen but my fitting didnt break off inside the manifold. The guy at the parts house said it was a common failure and he showed me an update to eliminate that quick disconnect for the old school hose clamp method.
Thanks for the great heads up advice.
That’s just like working on plumbing, you never know if there will be a domino effect of things breaking.
1road; Ive been following you for a while now because I have a 96 "burban" k1500 ls with the 5.7l. I absolutely love the thing. My wife thinks im crazy but I have a 2020 $55000 F250 sitting in the driveway but would prefer to drive the bourbon. Just FYI, I broke the fitting on mine as well but needed to replace the intake gaskets anyway. It was idling fairly rough. The are cheap plastic that literally crumbled. I used some Felpros made from steel. While I was there I decided to go ahead and buy the upgraded spider injectors, about $400. I'm glad I did because the thing now has a lot more power runs smooth like brand new and gets great gas mileage. As you probaly already know, I very seldom have to put the thing in 4 wheel drive on snow and ice because the thing is so heavy It gets great traction in 2 wd. It rides so smooth for a 4x4. It has 260,000 miles and doesnt use any oil. I hope the thing last another 260,000 miles and out lives me. I appreciate your passion to keep yours rolling because Im learning from your videos. Thanks so much.
So glad to hear! Somehow they’re just more fun when you don’t have so much money in them right?? It’s like a toy you can fix/modify yourself. Pretty cool man!!
Cracked my intake trying to get mine out 15yrs ago. Replaced the intake and put a barbed pipe fitting in. No more problem.
Good job getting that broken part out. I'll have to get one of those.
Dude, it was well worth the $12 I paid. I think they’re way cheaper on Amazon though..
@@1RoadGarage Thank you I'll order one. Keep the video's coming in a subscriber on your channel😎👍
Glad you’re back.
Yup called it . Been there done that. Im glad i had someone that knew what to do
Trying to change out the quick connect to the radiator hose that is next to the heater hose @ the firewall on my 2009 Chevy suburban. It has the white tabs on the sides. That quick disconnect tool isn’t working.
Got the same truck up here in LONDON ONT CANADA, she has305 km on it,NO leak there yet thank god
I’m glad you got all the crud out 🤙🏻💵
I loved the end
I just did mine today sprayed it with PB blaster then used my impact gun on it broke it free then snapped the head off, walked the rest of it out with a pair of pliers, worked great, definitely get that other tool just Incase your luck isn't as good that way u have a plan b or a plan c, good luck y'all.
Curious why you didn't use an intake manifolt adapter that ended in a male hose fitting, so you could simply clamp the hose over it, vs using the end that took that troublesome GM plastic and metal connecter
I had to redo mine on my 6.5 turbo diesel i put a ball valve on mine on the motor side and one on the radiator side so if my heater core started leaking or blow up like mine did I hade a way to shut off water flow and keep going to get home just an idea hope it helps cause it helped me alot
Thanks for the heads up. Although I drive a 01 gmc truck it's good to know these things
Nice satisfying fix!
Yes!!
You are one smart fellow. Good job!
Thanks!!
I would think that a screw extractor would do the same thing. This one is splined. But the tapered twist screw extractors would also pull that out.
Nice one Jimmy...🍻
Great to see you post jimmy! Thanks for the video man, I'm gonna go check my fitting now. 96, 5.7 vortec Silverado
Great job 👍
Great Video! Great Tool! 👍
Well it’s about time. Welcome back.
Joseph McClary 👍👍
My 2001 Buick century is leaking from the same spot. I’m going to give it. Where can I get that bit tool ?
This channel is like Everyday Home Repairs or Silver Cymbal but for DIY automotive. Sub’d. :)
Go to Walmart and buy the hypertough hand sledge. It has become my go to hammer while working on vehicles. It has enough mass to deliver the needed energy, but is small enough to get in tight places. It's worth it.
Hi Jimmy, do you know the part number for the bracket that suppor the hose ??? min 8:04 Thanks
These are helpful tips, thanks
had the same issue with my 92 explorer although they press it in the manifold. Had to take it off have the machine shop heat it up and remove it. They then put 3/8 np threads in so I could use a brass fitting with a barb. The factory pipe 3" long was 37.00 and steel. Why Brass isn't used because it won't rust I have no idea.
Link for this tool?
I have that tool. I did a lot of those fitting in the early 2000’s. Normal problem. A lot of Gm cars had them.
We’re can you buy that tool
Love your videos!! Thanks for all the helpful content!
Did he just reference Big Daddy after breaking that 😂😂😂
Or try an internal pipe wrench. I bought a set of these in a few sizes long ago and they've come in quite handy over the years. Some of the angles and obstacles become quite a challenge though, as you discovered.
Good job brother as long as u got it out thats important
Thanks!!
Thank you!!!!!
No problem. 👍👍
Great video bud! 👍
be nice to have this tool in many sizes in a kit
Did you drain all the coolant before replacing ? I need to do the same job and was hoping I didn't have to drain all the coolant to change the connector . Thanks
Loneapprentice nope. Not much leaks out until I started the engine to push out the debris.
wow, that piece broke off like concrete, luckily you got it fix and got a better piece
Been there dont that and never had even half the trouble you had and the one I replaced was broken from age and useing the truck like a truck popped out the leftover threaded end with my trusty lisle tool having read the card the tool came on and driving it fully into the part to be removed broke it loose and removed it without the drama Jimmy put into it yes I did thread in the replacement part made of steel as I dropped it and retrieved it with a magnet teflon taped it and put it all together after cleaning g and polishing and reassembling it all my 94 chevy w/t1500 was back to work in 40 minutes well keep it shiney side up jimmy
The tool is a version of an "easy out". This scenario is one reason why every home mechanic needs a heat gun. When you first started and applied PB Blaster, you should have done that right after you shut the engine off from normal operating temp (same for R&R of O2 sensors). Because the the female threaded boss will expand faster than the hose connector, the heat with crate a minute gap or path for the penetrant. Let it set until cool to touch. This is usually enough to get out the water jacket connectors that live in a highly corrosive environment.
After it broke, if you had heated the remaining piece in the manifold (actually the boss around it best you can) with a heat gun, the female threaded portion (the threaded manifold boss) will expand faster than the broken male threaded piece. The penetrant will suck into the threads and they will let go of each other quicker/easier.
Easy outs don't always work but you can help them by using heat. Sometimes that doesn't work either unfortunately. Then it's pull the manifold time and choose between getting a different manifold or taking yours to a machine shop.
Be aware that these threaded fittings that go into water jackets and water pumps are almost always "tapered threads", AKA "pipe threads". Over tighten the new one too much and you'll crack the threaded boss it screws into.
Amazing bro!
I got a 1997 express with the 5.7,haven't got there yet due to having only 144k miles but at least I have an idea now,thanks Jimmy for loosing your mind for us.
Hahah! No problem. Thanks for watching!!
i will use A magnet to pull out the metal 👍that's pro
Lisle had this tool for at least 20 years
Same here about the time it came out I bought that tool
Crap you need a special issue Tonya harding hammer .. now where did i put it 🤔 thanks for the vid very helpful I did the same thing.
Thank good 👍😎
This is a side note but that extratror had some of the worst machining i've seen in a while. lol I'm glad it worked for you though, y'all take care and have a good one. See you in the next one! Also "Damn you Scuba Steve" cracked me up thank you for the laugh. :)
I have already done this several times 😀
I have to do this on my 96 gmc c1500 305 on the intake...
Good job Steve, I know both of the feelings you had all to well, First feeling "WTF am I going to do now!" And then comes "YES it worked!"
Also, what's the update on those L.E.D.'s you installed on your rear lic plate? Are they both still working? Thanks 4 sharing.
Hey bro, I’m the process of filming another LED vid now. Should be up in the next few days!
Since the old line on my pickup was starting to rust I did some preventative maintenance and just changed the line to a rubber hose. when I changed out the old fitting it didn’t break and I didn’t think much of it until I saw this
Cool. Thanks 🙏👍
I broke mine when upgrading to 1.6 roller rocker arms on my 1990 k2500 Silverado. It should have been a quick job but it took all day.
I had a 92 GMC Sonoma ST 4.3V6 had the same issue I got the broken part out with Faucet Seat Wrench.
Congratulations.....You discovered an EZ OUT.
Soaked mine for hours, used a socket kept it straight and it came right off. The dorman replacement sucks though and I ended up eliminating the quick connect and used a hose and clamp
Where you been? Been wondering if you were ever going to post again.
Haha, sorry. Had some other work I had to do and I literally had no time left over. But videos should be coming as usual now. 👍👍
@@1RoadGarage Glad you are back!