How I make my A320 KORRY Buttons
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 มิ.ย. 2024
- This video describes the details how I make my (commercial) Korry buttons.
It also comes with Hispapanels mounting.
Available at:
www.santiluib3.com/products/o...
Customized Parts-Only of the Korry (eg. PCB only, PCB with Button/LED/Resistor) can be purchased from our shop as well :) Email us for your specific needs.
PLA 3D printing and PCB printing outsource:
jlcpcb.com/
Switch:
nl.aliexpress.com/i/328552637...
Rectangular LEDs: (I'm not sure if you can access this Asia-based Shopee)
shopee.ph/100pcs-LOT-2X3X4-2X... - เกม
Okay that is SLICK. Very well made, lot fancier than the panel buttons I was thinking of making.
thank you
@Santi Luib III Nice job Sir!
Last year my crew and me been working on the new Alien Romulus movie, making cockpits and panels for the spaceships and stations among other equipment. The SetDecorator picked an Omron industrial switch which was not available at that volume we needed so I had to come up with a solution. My approach was pretty similar to yours, just a bit more simple; -we had no time to order PCBs. The outer and inner shell are resin printed and I used one layer tinted (coloured) acrylic for the texts and a top layer black smoked transparent acrylic as lenses.
We ended up making almost a 1000pcs, as these easily customizeable functional buttons were used in every set to keep the aesthetics similar.
After the complete C5 and KC-10 cockpits we made a few years back for the last Terminator movie this job was a joyride.
Amazing! It must be fun working on those 1000+ buttons 😅
@@santiagoluib3 Well, not really. It's been quite an experience to create a functional and durable component, as the props I make usually needs to last for a few shots, so I ended up rotating my guys on this task to keep everybody sane... :)
Oh, an I used the very same latching buttons you did.
@@h4z4rd42 I can totally relate! :)
The yellow LEDs work best with 150 Ohm, so expect a 47 ohm resistor to significantly shorten it's lifespan.
Thanks for the tip. I just find that at 100ohm and above, the yellow gets weaker and light doesn't look good through the 2mm tinted lens. But I calculate these yellow led indicators barely get used on a "normal" A320 operation. They are FAULT indicators that light up only on very rare occasions, so I reckon 47-50ohm shouldn't hurt 😅
Beautiful work!
The black headlight cover material is a great tip, I hadn’t known about that before. Thanks!
Beautiful design. They look great!
Very nice.
Though if I was going to be making a lot of them, I'd be tempted to make a custom test box, rather than breadboarding it every time.
Thanks. Oh yes, there is a test box 😊 I just used a basic way to test it in this video for our "beginner" fiends who would like to do it themselves 😊
Nice, I've been wondering how a tint sheet would work but haven't gotten to try it out myself - looks better than expected! Seems like it would work really nicely with custom LED displays too (like 7 segments). Thanks for sharing!
These look fantastic!
Im building a Gulfstream G550 home cockpit and this is the video i was looking for, thank u soo much
This is really good! Well done!
Fantastic work Santi!
Oh my god i love you, thanks a lot for this wonderful content!
Even 24 minutes long!!
Amazing !!!!!! Incredible perfect job, congratulation !!!!!!!!
Stef👍
Thank you Stephane for triggering the project!!! :)
i just started making these switches, this will come in help!
Wow. Your channel is awesome. I’m so glad that TH-cam suggested this video. Instant subscription from me.
Thanks for sharing your stunning craftsmanship.
Thank you!
I’m not into flight simulators but nice buttons 👍🏻
Excelent work, subscribed.
Thank you!
This is great
Great vid, thank you for sharing. Seen you introduction of the Hispa conversion on the FB group. Do you sell the PCBs separately?
We can arrange for a PCB-only shipping Bro, but it's always the postage cost that is the elephant in the room! Do you think these tiny PCBs can slip through document-type parcel? Stick them in cards or something? :)
brilliant!
This is amazing!!!
Thank you!
This is a really nice design, looks very professional when it's all assembled.
There's a tiny bit of light bleed between the two LEDs and I wonder if it can be improved. I wonder if you could make the lens out of two separate parts with the edges painted in order to prevent the light bleed. I think that the tinted film would hide the gap between them, or at least that's my theory.
Yes, that light bleed is a little known glitch on this lens design and it's more pronounced in the Phone camera than in actual, though not a real show-stopper. And yes, the solution you suggest I also got it from Mark Ayton whose designs are really good and I admire them (you can see his works from Printables-dot-com under nickname Mantoga). The thing with that solution is (for me at least), the laser cut isn't really right angle (perpendicular) to the flatbed, therefore it needs to be sanded well to be right angle before painted and fused together with the other half, adding more to the already long production time :) I will update this once I find other solutions.
@@santiagoluib3 Thanks for the heads up about Mantoga, I'll have a look at his works as well.
I see the issue with the laser cutter draft angle. One option would be to flip one of the lens halves, that way the draft angles will cancel out and the two parts would sit together without additional sanding. The downside of that is that you need to keep track of which parts have been flipped when you paint and engrave them.
@@yngndrw. That's a clever way to cancel the draft angle! But you're right about keeping tabs of the "pairs", let alone fabricating hundreds of these :P Thanks!
Could you make a video for the PCB only? thanks
Always loved the look of aircraft panels and buttons.
If you want to minimize light bleedthrough use thinner acrylic, though 1mm would be hard to find.
Yes, I have been looking for 1mm acrylic of the same translucency but its hard to come by. Thanks
Great work! Any way to purchase the gerber file and the STL? Can you also share the switch and led supplier? Thank you for the great work
I have updated the video description to inlcude some links. I am sorry I cannot release gerber/stl files :)
This is a great tutorial on assembly!
Is there a chance I might ask for the font you used on the panels/switches? I've got a small project upcoming that is inspired in aircraft, so this would all come in handy for that precise look!
Thanks! The font I use for the panels is MS33558 you can simply google and download it :) You just have to adjust the word spacing because the default has the words separated too far apart. As for the Korry "lenses" labels, I use Helvetica Neue Medium font. :) Cheers
Wow, they look awesome!
Idea if you want it:
It would require a pcb re-design and a bit more complexity on each button, but would simplify the controller side and overall wiring.
CAN
Can is used in airplanes, cars and a lot more so it's solid.
But if you put a can (excuse the pun) put a circuit on each button that does can, what that means is 4 wires for each button - never more or less.
You can then basically have only 4 wires that go from each panel, back to your controller.
So you basically just have a bunch of wires on each panel (which you would anyway) - but no further.
12v for everything, and always avail.
The other part to that is currently you have switches (as mentioned in this video) - where with the can, you can switch to just standard push buttons.
Why would that be better? well depending on the button type, you could make it auto-reset to a default state on power on, or follow the previous state.
So a bit more flexibilty.
Also, if you have like a dial which has more positions, you'd either have to use a resistor calc or more wires to know the dial state - where this design it stays 4 - the controller works out the state and just reports it.
You can also do more, eg maybe lets say throttles for example.
Now, each one has 4 inputs (buttons or latches if memory serves - lets say 747 eg or somme for visual), you have the position of the throttle and maybe a motor to move the throttle on certain actions.
You could do that with the controller and still 4 wires.
Thanks! I have been studying it recently and it definitely is something worth considering. I might give it a shot if time permits.
CAN bus is much too expensive and not needed when you're not operating a reliability critical, electrically hostle environment. Even say in your car the buttons are not indivdual CAN devices, you have a CAN device somewhere then it fans out a LIN bus to several LIN devices say across the steering wheel and steering wheel stalks, and each of those LIN devices has a whole bunch of controls attached to it whatever is clustered nearby and not just one.
I think if i was designing it and had the goal to simplify wiring, i may consider a small 8-pin microcontroller per control doing i2c, and they can be wired up any which way and the function of the control would correspond to the address of the i2c endpoint. At that point i may also unify the LED drive resistors to a lowest possible value and use microcontroller PWM to control the effective current.
@@SianaGearz CAN isn't expensive - it's one of the cheaper platforms hey.
Also ... have you seen some of the new cars?
But yea, i2C, would do the same job. (just be aware of the device limit)
The only thing to note with i2c is you have to either add some additional circutry or power down the whole system before connecting/disconnecting anything.
Where can you don't have to worry about this as it's built in.
Could probs do a 'control' board per panel - so I2C in, or can in to the whole panel - and then it gets split off into i2c for all the buttons/controls (so no device limit)
But basically the structure is the same, micro-chip on each button/control - minimal wiring overall and more flexibility available.
I would actually recommend against PWM for the LEDs
They don't need PWM control and if there is any video, it could cause flickering.
If you want control - rather use somme like WS2812 ** - it does dimming better and means the main IC doesn't require more pins (single pin for this)
@@mitchellmnr At hobbyist quantities, CAN transceiver ICs are about $1 each and then one needs to program a microcontroller for each button. Even if one uses an ATTiny, that adds at least another dollar in parts. Then you have the issue of fitting the parts on the PCB, as there is not a ton of extra room unless you go with surface mount on both sides, which makes it difficult for hobbyists. If you are making a full annunciator panel, yes, that is too expensive and too complex to do for each button.
@@r2db Fair enough - but JLC has pcb assembly service which isn't too costly at least.
But yea, you can make a panel controller if you that worried.
The whole idea is about minimizing wiring overall, making it easier to service/fix/change
Maybe you want to change a button, or a whole panel - its minimal wiring - you don't have to remember where it goes to what and all the pain.
You just build a new panel or switch - and change it - all connected together.
You'd just have a 'id' of the button/switch/led type and its set inside it and what it can do.
So on the integration with software, you may have to have a 'driver' of sorts to interpret - but basically if you went from a sesna to a 747 eg - you are going to have some sort of trim
So a switch with id of trim (well dial of sorts)
So you can have varients of that for different aircraft.
Or maybe multiple types of trim wheels - ie on the stick , or the spinner near throttle or what not - each is a unique id with traits - so it just has to be mapped to the software.
Hows this, boeing was looking at changing the wheel for a stick like airbus
Well, the articulation of the 'whee' or 'stick' is the same ... so same id of 'control1' basically.
the software doesn't care, and the hardware doesn't care.
Boeing does it's upgrade and you wanna now match? ok ... change to a stick ... you remove the wheel (one cable, 4 wires) and put in a stick and you are done.
Just easier later on
Nice informative video. May I request next time just keep the background music at a steady low volume instead of going high/low in between your voice, literally had to stop and fast forward the video.
Noted, and sorry if you find it annoying. I will keep it steady and minimal next time.
nice design...
Thank you!
Great work, impressive, would it not be an option to have the pcb available to buy from pcbway ?
Buy it from him or create or own.. He even displayed the schematic. Stop being a cheap bastard!
@@Bren39Lol that's a bit harsh, just thought it might make it easier but hey apologies for anything that gave offence I shall go to the foot of our stairs.
I can only say that you are better than the big shops like skalarki 😁😉
Thanks for the kind words, but in no way I compete with the big boys LOL!!! Cheers!
Looks amazing as always! Can i ask what is the shipping method? and i assume can ask for what ones i want ( overhead of course but what about FCU and efis? ) and are you any closer to having thr panels ready to sell? be nice to order both at once
Thanks!
Hi, I currently engage with PhilPost EMS Philippines. Shipments typically take anywhere between 15-25 days depending on destination. Still not cheap for overseas destinations for some ppl. There is a faster and more secure option, via DHL Express, but at a much more steeper cost. The ver3.0 of my FCU-EFIS Buttons (Korry) are still on the working table needing attention and time LOL. For now, these FCU-EFIS Korry's only have the green indicator lights (that is, the text labels aren't backlit yet). And yes, I have already started selling "Starter" panels, I just had no time to post these on the store but ppl can just message me what they need :) I'll be making a separate video on the panels soon. Unfortunately, the panels are not the advertised "Pre-backlit" using EL panels (there's some reasons now to drop the EL Panel backlighting) but they are backlight-ready for customer to so their own backlighting. Cheers!
Wowowow
Nice video, the music going in and out was annoying though. maybe one day i will build one fo these buttons.
I took note of this, sorry if you find it annoying. I will keep it steady and minimal next time. Thanks.
Hello i was wondering if u delivered your tca mods to Ireland
Yes Jack I do ship to Ireland :)
@@santiagoluib3 I checked the website but there wasn't an option for Ireland
@@jackmccormack3287yes, Shopify for some reasons doesn't have Ireland, but my postal service does ship there :) Please email me to discuss options at Santiagoluib3@gmail.com
Is it possible to download the PCB files ?
I'm sorry, I don't release the PCB files, but the PCBs can be sold separately :)
If you could separate your panel "sandwich", you could insert the shell from the front only in the lower panel and then fix the upper panel on top. You could even have a smaller hole in the upper panel since it does not have to be as big as the lip on the shell.
Thanks. Which panel are you referring to? If it's the HispaPanels then it's better addressed to its creator :)
what supply voltage for buttons ?
Hi. The buttons as well as LEDs connect to your I/O board's (eg. Arduino) data pins and GND and take the board's 5V supply.
Hey Here's Deniz from the email, I have a question about how to set the buttons with 6pin on MobiFlight, because it doesn't work by me, I just know how to set microswitches
Hi! For push buttons, even if you have six pins, you actually need only two of them. Each row of three pins has two which are used, so it's your choice which row you use, just like in my video. Either side works. The trick is finding which of the two (of the three) pins are used. So a multi tester comes in handy. Typically, the pin at the center is the common ground. Hope that helps. :)
@@santiagoluib3 thank you 🥰
interesting video, but this music changing volume all the time is reeeeally annoying
Was very exited to see this video, but unfortunately It was near unwatchable with audio as there is a constant high-pitched tone in the audio track. This is probably only noticeable with good headphones, but I had to mute the video and enable captions to watch it without going mad. Really unfortunate for a video with this much effort put into it...
My apologies for the inconvenience it caused you. I am not aware of any high-pitched tone in the audio, and this is the first feedback I got about such "high-pitched" tone, aside from the annoying going in and out of the music between my voice. Perhaps with high-end speakers/headphones only then this is audible. Sorry I don't have real equipment for this channel at the moment, just my trusty old handphone for both video and audio. Rest assured, I will see to it that future videos wont be having these annoyances. Again, sorry if it caused you discomfort.
@@santiagoluib3 No worries at all, I am pointing this out so that this can be prevented in the future and hopefully improve the viewing experience for other viewers as well in some way 😄.
I've quickly generated a spectrogram of the audio to confirm it wasn't just a problem with my equipment and sure enough there is a perfect line at around 15.2kHz (tried posting a link to this three times now, youtube does not like it), though its only present on the 44kHz audio track of the video. I've also tried some cheaper 60$ wireless headphones and I also seem to notice, the tone there.
I am no expert on audio tech, but this might be an artifact from down-sampling audio from a higher frequency track rather than an issue with the recording itself, which might be as easily fixed as choosing a higher quality down-sampling option. Given the frequency it could also be CRT monitor noise, but I kinda doubt that. If nothing else helps, a high-q band filter might do the trick.
I'll try sending the link again: "nextcloud dot struktur dot de slash s slash RY59B6SYf3Jwatd"
@@rednicstone3299 Thanks for the tips!
Impressive work!
But to be honest, at this point it would be cheaper to just buy real ones. As far as i know a real button costs 16$
Thank you! But the whole point of this video is for D-I-Y and the fun of doing it plus a fully functional Korry-like button. I don't think you can buy a real Korry below US$125. That's from Korry Electornics. Some even go as high as $400+.
Well that's a valid point. Most people forget that not flying the sim is the actual hobby, it's building it. Anyway I would just use real parts, here in europe parts are relativly cheap. For example a complete APU panel is like 130$.
@@memeswithoutcontext4716 That's cool! You are lucky to have these "real parts" panels cheap in your region. Of course, if you can get the real ones for cheap, why take the hassle in building them, right? :) Cheers and happy flying!
Jes exactly! If you once flew in a full flight simulator you will never go back to somthing else than OEM parts :) . Sadly I dont have enogh space for a big cockpit like a 737 or A320, therefor i'm going to start building an DCS F15 mixed reality cockpit.
Many happy landings! :)
Because the shell you glue on will break over time...
So far, not in my experience. The outer shell is not subject to high tentions with normal operations. Also PLA doesn't break. With strong CA glue this thing clings on like it's part of the structure. However, the inner shell that is made of Resin is the one more likely to break. 😊
humm first resistor is 200 ohm [ red black brown / gold for tolerence ] (two hundred not two fifty [ that what i heard in the vid ]) and the second is 47 ohm [ yellow purple black / gold for tolerence ] (forty-seven not fifty [ that what is heard in the vid ] ).
Good catch! Yeah, with such a messy working table things easily get mixed up. Thankfully a 3 to 50ohm "mistake" doesn't blow things up ;) Thanks!