got one of these 3 weeks ago, mowed my 5.5 acre horse property that has no horses. it did great, the pastures had not been cut all summer, were 2 ft tall grass and weeds. Had to make two passes in the deep stuff but the whole place looks like a lawn now. Engine is very powerful, I have the Kawasaki. I have the Z254F special edition which has very aggressive tread tires.
My Husqvarna RZ46i had to have the deck rewelded twice where it broke off the brackets. Seems to be a design weakness. Nice review, thanks for sharing!
I know this is an older video, you may not see this. But looking at the same model with the fabbed deck. I have some rough property about 3 acres that will be mowed, buty will also use it to cut trails in the other 17 acres of woods and brush. Thanks for the realistic view. BTW...i used to work for a Sauer Danfoss dealer...we used to sell the 15 series hydrostats for mower applications. This was before agrifab days.
I just bought a 248F so we'll see if the fabricated deck holds up better. It was a bit more money over the stamped deck but I'm hoping it'll be worth it. It should do, I'm replacing a Kubota GR2000 which has a stamped deck and I never had any problems with it. The Kubota is a great tractor, especially the 4 wheel drive, but it's just too darn expensive to repair, and it's significantly more complicated than other lawn tractors (plus it's 25 years old). Most shops won't touch them so you have to go to a Kubota dealer and they charge dealer rates, "book" hours, and the same shop rate they change for the big equipment. So what I did was buy just the clutch and bearing, put them in myself (which took a while! But I'm slow.), and bought a new 248F for the same money the dealer wanted to charge me for a new transaxle (the clutch is in the transaxle on the GR series, and for some reason the dealer thought I should replace the whole thing rather than just the clutch even though it drives fine). So now I have an old GR2000 that I will use for snow removal and "tractor" things, and a new 248F zero turn for the same price!
It's awesome to see what the mower is like after your beat the crap out of it 😂 but I'm being sincere. A lot of people do reviews and it looks like they used it twice lol
Just bought the same model two weeks ago and have used it once (loved it). The delivery driver/tech went over the the machine with me and expressed mostly information I already knew, but not all. He warned me to NEVER drop the deck unless the throttle is in rabbit mode, otherwise the belt would either be thrown or break. But, (and this is where my question comes in) he didn’t tell me when to engage the blades. Once I did engage the blades, prior to dropping the deck, is when I noticed extreme thrust of the engine and where I felt a breakage of the belt could occur. Dropping the deck was smooth as silk. I’d appreciate your knowledge as when it is best to activate the blades.
To be honest I engage the blades and drop or raise the deck at full throttle or any RPM. But I am not a Husqvarna engineer! I just know about the hydro-gear transmissions! My mower is still going strong.
Thanks for this review, which is the one you would recommend? The more expensive one? We just bought 3 acres of land that has only been brush hogged. How is it possible with getting a regular mower that the grass will turn soft? Or do we have to reseed? Any advice regarding that also would be appreciated.
Has anyone had any issues with the mower moving without a party or individual operating it or ever getting up out of the seat and the mower keeps moving? Any input would help. My friends mother had a fatal accident lately. Thanks.
Thanks for the review. Well done. Do you have any thoughts on whether a Kawasaki motor would be better than the Kohler or Briggs & Stratton on this mower?
Keep in mind I am not a guy that takes pride in his lawn being perfect. Id rather go hunting or fishing than mow. THAT SAID... the cut looks great IF you sharpen the blades a few times per year and make sure your tires are evenly aired up. I will try to do an operational video within the next week or 2 for ya!
I have 10 acres but only about 2 of it to mow but there's a couple of steep hills I'm going to brush hog this place first and then just keep up on the Mowing and eventually plant grass everywhere I won't need a sprinkler system 2 Acres you think you can handle that? With id say 30% 45% angle Hills in areas?
Thank you for a nice review. Been looking at buying one so you really helped. Just one thing, it is Husqvarna, pronounced Huis-Kvarna, not Huska-Varna. Thanx
You have no idea how it was maintained. Maybe he keeps it clean but doesn't do regular maintenance, grease, oil etc. Be careful, he's about $1000 too high IMO.
Hydro-gear recommends changing the oil around 75 hours initially, then every 300ish hours. On the EZT residential units, they are not serviceable so you don’t change the oil.
There are bypass knobs/ levers on each transmission on the rear of machine. When pulled, the transmission for that side will not function, and the wheel will free spin. Let me know if that was the issue.
Mine has developed slop/flop in the control arms where they fall down if you let go but they used to be somewhat firm and you had to push them in/out. (not to be confused with the forward/rearward movement) I noticed your girl was moving them pretty freely in your video as well. Is this just a normal thing or is that adjustable? I've dug around and it doesn't seem that anyone else is talking about this.
Some transaxles have RTN(return to neutral)springs on the control arm. It’s an option that an OEM has to ask Hydro-Gear if they want it or not. I believe your transaxles are work out and that is why the sticks are falling like that. You could get different control arms that accept an RTN spring and this would fix that issue. You would have to call a hydrogear dealer and tell them you want a control arm with RTN spring for your make model.
@@EFactorOutdoors Ah ok, thank you. It's not a deal breaker, just wasn't sure if it was something that was out of adjustment. Sounds like normal action if one doesn't have those optional springs. Carry on! :)
You need to grease your Front wheel axels. They are grinding steel on steel! That's where your squeeking is coming from.... Your axel is probably worn half way through, most people miss the grease point on the front wheel. When you take your axel out you'll probably be in for a shock! 👍😎
I have a problem, my right side control handle is really hard to move and when I get going I have keep slowing the right side to stay straight. What do I need to do to correct.
To fix your straight line tracking, first make sure your tires air pressure is equal in both sides after that, each side has an adjustment bolt for the control handle. . Adjust the right side so it limits the handle from stroking as far forward.. Then it will drive straight. I’ve never heard of a control handle getting hard to push forward. They normally become easier to push forward over time as components wear out. I’d guess you have something binding up in the linkage that goes from that stick to the transmission. Maybe it got bent.
Husqvarna does not honor their warranties. Keep that in mind. I had a 2 year old mower with 3 year old warranty and lifetime on deck. My deck cracked and blade spindle almost fell off. They said it was a maintenance issue. Tell me what kind of maintenance is for mower deck?
Great review. Subscribed. I finally found a review involving someone with knowledge of transmissions and who do I get? A Hydro-Gear engineer! You're just the person I need to talk to. I have a special project and I need your help. I have a 2019 Hustler Raptor with ZT-2100 transmissions and I want to chop up my mower and convert it into a recreational vehicle. The mowing deck will be eliminated I'll and turn the chassis around 180 degrees putting the drive wheels up front. I still need to be able to use the sticks normally where pushing forward moves the vehicle forward. I am guessing that there's a part inside that determines the transmission's orientation in the mower. The pumps and motors are ahead of the axles in your mower but they're behind the axles in mine. Would the center sections be what determines the orientation? I hope you're able to help me. Thanks in advance!
the raptor is a great mower. Funny the ZT2100 is actually my product. I am the machining engineer for those exact housings and center sections. Anyway, as far as I understand, The transmission doesn't know which way it's mounted in the mower. I mean You push the sticks forward and it goes Foward. You push the sticks back and it goes back. If you flip everything but not the transmission, you will be driving in what would normally be Reverse, but in your case it would.be Foward .. am I understanding you correctly? I can find out the answer if I don't know it.
@@EFactorOutdoors , Thank you for replying. I appreciate your time. Let me put it another way. Hustler mounts their transmission with the pump and motor following the axle where Cub Cadet mounts theirs with the pump and motor leading. It seems there would have to be a part change to allow the 180 degree difference in orientation in the chassis? The control arms on the Hustler appear to be the same as those on the Cub Cadet but they face different directions. It seems the differences would be internal. When the sticks are pressed forward in these two opposing layouts the swashplates are moving in opposing directions yet the mowers move in the same direction. How could that be? I'm still guessing there's a difference in center sections. Aren't they just valve bodies controlling fluid routing? Do these routes get flipped between the two examples? I'm still learning so these are more questions than suggestions. Thanks again. If this all works out, I'll be buying your transmissions by the pallet!
It took a while to sink in but I think I understand how it works now. It took more time laying on the garage floor but I think I understand where the difference is. The axle rotates in the oposite direction that the top of the control arm is pushed. It doesn't matter which way the transmission is faced, control arm and tire tread go in opposite directions. The difference is in how the spring reverse return to neutral mechanism is installed and the amount of stick travel allowed. The stick travel in forward and reverse on my machine are limited by the length of the slot in which the sticks sit. The spring reverse return to neutral mechanism gets mounted one way or the other depending on whether it's forward or rearward facing.
To be honest it sounds like you know more about it that me. We have alot of engineers and I not over the entire transmission unit. I just make the main housing, the side housing, and the center sections. Well I don't make them myself but I own the cnc manufacturing processes, operator standard work, quality inspections, etc. My goal is to make a robust process that makes very little scrap and also is efficient. Anyway blah blah sounds like you got er figured out man.
Which series hydrogear would you recommend for a 2.5 acre residential yard? Would the zt2800 or 3100 series be a good option to look for? I have a John Deere with zt2200s and the right side has failed twice in 450hrs. Needing to find a solid 52-60” machine in the $4K range..
Yep. Go for the zt2800 or up. The 2200 should have lasted much longer if it was in a machine with proper application. (Pretty much weight and type of use). What brand and model did you have? What type of terrain you mowing in? You towing anything with the mower?
E Factor Outdoors - DIY Hunting Fishing The 2200s are in a 2010 JD z225 42”. I do have one steep slope that runs the length of my yard but I take it easy in general and don’t feel that I’ve abused it. Tbh I’ve had a lot of issues with it in 450hrs. Idler-tensioner pulley, both deck spindles, both the drive and deck belt have failed, and the key switch quit working and had to be replaced...I’m really liking the looks of the Husqvarna mz61, it’s got a 27hp Briggs with zt3100s and 61” deck. They are running $5k everywhere I’ve looked but one of the local shops has a demoed one with like 15hrs for $4400
well----just purchased a 48 got a great deal on it----my 5 year old crafstman with kohler--left spindle has so much play cant scream above the noise when turning--last crafstman lasted 10 years--put 1 set new spindles at 8 years on it--this last one is frigging junk---SO that why i went with husqvarna--deck/frame welded--as well as the warranty on the deck plus 5 years on the engine--PLUS zerx fittings too--just tired of the MTD[made to die] JUNK!!!!!!
MTD has many different product line and actually just came out with done amazing commercial products. Their new residential zero turn from last year is also amazing. The Ultimate series!!! The MTD lawn tractor of Craftsman brand you had was probably not designed for 10 years of use.. it was probably also priced very cheap and served its purpose for that market. You usually get what you pay fir you know what I mean?? Congrats on the Husqvarna purchase by the way. I’m obviously a fan.
@@johnbiggins4864 kohler is still running fine--ive never had issues with kohler--they are friggin monsters--its just the junky mtd frames and working are just NOT going to last--regardless. i dont care to pay more for a mower--as long as i get one that doesnt need all new spindles after only 4 years of every other week use during summer months--and im very meticulous in maintenance--so--i guess thats why engine is still a mule--BUT--oh well lesson learned. so far i love my 48--husky only time will tell the next story--so far so good!
Everyone has their favorite and thinks one is better. That’s the only reason mower manufacturers offer multiple brands. They are all good. Anyway if I was recommending a brand , I’d say go with a Kaw
Have that exact mower. I mowed naked and the seat sticks to my a$$. Not much of a fan of Biggs and Strap-on engines. I've had Bad experiences with them. I do like the Kohler's and Kawasakis.
E Factor Outdoors - DIY Hunting Fishing yes it’s a lot of hours. I’ve had to replace one transaxle weld the deck several time’s and replace almost every bearing! I have had electrical shorts engine problems etc! Husqvarna wouldn’t stand by their warranty even when problems came about around 100 hours. With the money I’ve spent out of pocket I could have just originally bought the Toro time cutter that I have now. I can’t recommend the z254 to anyone seeing mine is garbage!
my 100 hour review on a VERY well maintained z254,,, center deck pulley bearing defective,,,, front spindle shaft bearings defective,,,, but the very worse thing at exactly 100 hours the LEFT hydro gear seals are leaking causing big issues !!!??? 1300$$$$$ not serviceable is bullshit ! i guess i got a friday machine
BRAINWASHED my left hydro gave out before 100 hours and I had to pay out of pocket! The zt2800 serviceable is a nice upgrade on my new mower! Sad the z254 didn’t last 3 years before turning into complete trash
My hydro gear lasted 4 years or 300 hours on 2 plus acres. The rest of the Z254 still looks great. The Kawasaki engine is still strong. At 7 to 8 hundred dollars a piece (transmission) plus labor, I may buy a new mower. I fail miserably on maintenance, but the hydro gear is maintenance free. I do weigh 260 lbs , usually cut at the lowest height and cut to where I push the cuttings in same direction. These 3 things are extra stress on the 2 transmissions or hydro gears. It's a small part buried in middle of the hydro gear that wears loose. Saw a demo on utube. 4hrs labor for 1 side. Not sure I can fix it.
These d@mmm things need to be designed so they never need greasing... because they never will be. Also, I don't advise rinsing it out, you're just going to cause rust and get whatever grass is in there soaking wet to cause more rust. Best idea would be to blow it out with a leave blower into every nook and cranny you can get into... that's what I do on mine. SPraying water all over equipment like this is a universally bad idea... I know people do it to their cars and that's a bad idea as well :-/ Better ways to clean it than spraying water into every nook and cranny.
While I don’t totally disagree.. there are many end users who won’t buy a machine without greaseable components. These will last longer than sealed units that are “maintenance free”. Personally, I grease all zerts every other time I mow.
Omg I was trying to watch a informative video, it’s a 7,000 series, not 700! That’s seven thousand not seven hundred 😜 , oh and grease last months not days! So you don’t have to grease every time you mow! Oh and change that oil… wow!
My mom's stopped moving completely after only a few years. What a POS. Engine runs, little neutral hooks are in right place, it just won't go forward or backwards or anything. What a piece of junk. She babied hers and just mowed with it... so I'm like WTF Husquavarna.
I don't need nor want to see your face while you tell me about a product. Just show the product... unless you only do these videos so you can be on camera. In which case your opinion now means nothing to me. You're not giving this review for the sake of giving us information, you're doing it for an excuse to be on camera.
got one of these 3 weeks ago, mowed my 5.5 acre horse property that has no horses. it did great, the pastures had not been cut all summer, were 2 ft tall grass and weeds. Had to make two passes in the deep stuff but the whole place looks like a lawn now. Engine is very powerful, I have the Kawasaki. I have the Z254F special edition which has very aggressive tread tires.
Thanks mate very useful info, appreciate you sharing your valuable knowledge. Alan in NZ
My Husqvarna RZ46i had to have the deck rewelded twice where it broke off the brackets. Seems to be a design weakness. Nice review, thanks for sharing!
I know this is an older video, you may not see this. But looking at the same model with the fabbed deck. I have some rough property about 3 acres that will be mowed, buty will also use it to cut trails in the other 17 acres of woods and brush. Thanks for the realistic view. BTW...i used to work for a Sauer Danfoss dealer...we used to sell the 15 series hydrostats for mower applications. This was before agrifab days.
Appreciate it. Exactly what I was looking for.
Thnx for the honest review. I just bought a place on six acres. Looking for a decent machine without spending tons
You bet! Congrats on the 6 acres!! ❤️
Great review! Thanks.
I just bought a 248F so we'll see if the fabricated deck holds up better. It was a bit more money over the stamped deck but I'm hoping it'll be worth it. It should do, I'm replacing a Kubota GR2000 which has a stamped deck and I never had any problems with it. The Kubota is a great tractor, especially the 4 wheel drive, but it's just too darn expensive to repair, and it's significantly more complicated than other lawn tractors (plus it's 25 years old). Most shops won't touch them so you have to go to a Kubota dealer and they charge dealer rates, "book" hours, and the same shop rate they change for the big equipment. So what I did was buy just the clutch and bearing, put them in myself (which took a while! But I'm slow.), and bought a new 248F for the same money the dealer wanted to charge me for a new transaxle (the clutch is in the transaxle on the GR series, and for some reason the dealer thought I should replace the whole thing rather than just the clutch even though it drives fine). So now I have an old GR2000 that I will use for snow removal and "tractor" things, and a new 248F zero turn for the same price!
thanks man, great info!
It's awesome to see what the mower is like after your beat the crap out of it 😂 but I'm being sincere. A lot of people do reviews and it looks like they used it twice lol
I agree!! these are the reviews I want to see!
True
I just bought 1 of these for 200 bucks.
I think i did good.
It runs no engine damage just needs battery and standard maintenance done.
Thanks for that, I am similar in abuse to my Kubota and it has failed miserably. good info.
What part failed?
Just bought the same model two weeks ago and have used it once (loved it). The delivery driver/tech went over the the machine with me and expressed mostly information I already knew, but not all. He warned me to NEVER drop the deck unless the throttle is in rabbit mode, otherwise the belt would either be thrown or break. But, (and this is where my question comes in) he didn’t tell me when to engage the blades. Once I did engage the blades, prior to dropping the deck, is when I noticed extreme thrust of the engine and where I felt a breakage of the belt could occur. Dropping the deck was smooth as silk. I’d appreciate your knowledge as when it is best to activate the blades.
To be honest I engage the blades and drop or raise the deck at full throttle or any RPM. But I am not a Husqvarna engineer! I just know about the hydro-gear transmissions! My mower is still going strong.
Hi can have mower to keep your much for it
'rabbit mode' 😄
Great video thanks.
Thanks for this review, which is the one you would recommend? The more expensive one? We just bought 3 acres of land that has only been brush hogged. How is it possible with getting a regular mower that the grass will turn soft? Or do we have to reseed? Any advice regarding that also would be appreciated.
Extremely helpful. Thank you!
Weld rebar around edge of mowing deck(had to shape),change Hydro Gear oil yearly),20w50 full synthetic
Wow!
Have same model, and I agree deck is the weak point on these. Next one I get will have a reinforced fab deck. 5 years old, still running like new.
Thku
Has anyone had any issues with the mower moving without a party or individual operating it or ever getting up out of the seat and the mower keeps moving? Any input would help. My friends mother had a fatal accident lately. Thanks.
Thanks for the review. Well done. Do you have any thoughts on whether a Kawasaki motor would be better than the Kohler or Briggs & Stratton on this mower?
I do not know which motor is better..
@@EFactorOutdoors we have one with the kawasaki motor after 150 hours it has started to use an excessive amount of oil
@@lostshorty4816 What kind of oil did you use in your unit?
How do you like the cut quality on regular grass height? Can you do a vid of it in operation?
Keep in mind I am not a guy that takes pride in his lawn being perfect. Id rather go hunting or fishing than mow. THAT SAID... the cut looks great IF you sharpen the blades a few times per year and make sure your tires are evenly aired up. I will try to do an operational video within the next week or 2 for ya!
I have 10 acres but only about 2 of it to mow but there's a couple of steep hills I'm going to brush hog this place first and then just keep up on the Mowing and eventually plant grass everywhere I won't need a sprinkler system 2 Acres you think you can handle that? With id say 30% 45% angle Hills in areas?
Yeah I mow more than 2 acres
Do you where I can find the replacement blades for it?
I’m in need of a muffler for my Z254 but can’t find one. Can you assist me in finding?
They’re double now
Thank you for a nice review.
Been looking at buying one so you really helped.
Just one thing, it is Husqvarna, pronounced Huis-Kvarna, not Huska-Varna.
Thanx
Huska Varna
Thanks much for the review. I am looking at buying the same one used with 394 hours for 1900.00, It looks brand new.
azimmey they are about 2800 new
That’s an awful price plus not a good mower to start with
You have no idea how it was maintained. Maybe he keeps it clean but doesn't do regular maintenance, grease, oil etc. Be careful, he's about $1000 too high IMO.
You needed the fabricated deck model Z254F
I would agree with you!!
How often do you change the fluid in the hydros?
Hydro-gear recommends changing the oil around 75 hours initially, then every 300ish hours. On the EZT residential units, they are not serviceable so you don’t change the oil.
Just purchased a new z 254 right rear wheel is locked up brand new off the crate any help would be appreciated
There are bypass knobs/ levers on each transmission on the rear of machine. When pulled, the transmission for that side will not function, and the wheel will free spin. Let me know if that was the issue.
Mine has developed slop/flop in the control arms where they fall down if you let go but they used to be somewhat firm and you had to push them in/out. (not to be confused with the forward/rearward movement) I noticed your girl was moving them pretty freely in your video as well. Is this just a normal thing or is that adjustable? I've dug around and it doesn't seem that anyone else is talking about this.
Some transaxles have RTN(return to neutral)springs on the control arm. It’s an option that an OEM has to ask Hydro-Gear if they want it or not. I believe your transaxles are work out and that is why the sticks are falling like that. You could get different control arms that accept an RTN spring and this would fix that issue. You would have to call a hydrogear dealer and tell them you want a control arm with RTN spring for your make model.
@@EFactorOutdoors Ah ok, thank you. It's not a deal breaker, just wasn't sure if it was something that was out of adjustment. Sounds like normal action if one doesn't have those optional springs. Carry on! :)
Should have got the fabricated deck , much stronger .
You need to grease your Front wheel axels. They are grinding steel on steel! That's where your squeeking is coming from.... Your axel is probably worn half way through, most people miss the grease point on the front wheel. When you take your axel out you'll probably be in for a shock! 👍😎
I grease them and the deck bearings every other use.
@@EFactorOutdoors have you pulled them out & checked for wear?
Those pressed decks are not very durable....
*axle
From Dominic our much. Is it 34,000 Dollars
I have a problem, my right side control handle is really hard to move and when I get going I have keep slowing the right side to stay straight. What do I need to do to correct.
To fix your straight line tracking, first make sure your tires air pressure is equal in both sides after that, each side has an adjustment bolt for the control handle. . Adjust the right side so it limits the handle from stroking as far forward.. Then it will drive straight.
I’ve never heard of a control handle getting hard to push forward. They normally become easier to push forward over time as components wear out. I’d guess you have something binding up in the linkage that goes from that stick to the transmission. Maybe it got bent.
My deck broke in the same place
Husqvarna does not honor their warranties. Keep that in mind. I had a 2 year old mower with 3 year old warranty and lifetime on deck. My deck cracked and blade spindle almost fell off. They said it was a maintenance issue. Tell me what kind of maintenance is for mower deck?
Good to know, deciding between the husky and Torro right now.
What mower would you upgrade to over the Husqvarna?
Dixie Chopper zee2, Hustler Raptor SD, or almost any mower with a zT2800 transaxle. Bad boy also makes a great mower.
Great review. Subscribed.
I finally found a review involving someone with knowledge of transmissions and who do I get? A Hydro-Gear engineer! You're just the person I need to talk to. I have a special project and I need your help.
I have a 2019 Hustler Raptor with ZT-2100 transmissions and I want to chop up my mower and convert it into a recreational vehicle. The mowing deck will be eliminated I'll and turn the chassis around 180 degrees putting the drive wheels up front. I still need to be able to use the sticks normally where pushing forward moves the vehicle forward.
I am guessing that there's a part inside that determines the transmission's orientation in the mower. The pumps and motors are ahead of the axles in your mower but they're behind the axles in mine. Would the center sections be what determines the orientation?
I hope you're able to help me. Thanks in advance!
the raptor is a great mower. Funny the ZT2100 is actually my product. I am the machining engineer for those exact housings and center sections. Anyway, as far as I understand, The transmission doesn't know which way it's mounted in the mower. I mean You push the sticks forward and it goes Foward. You push the sticks back and it goes back.
If you flip everything but not the transmission, you will be driving in what would normally be Reverse, but in your case it would.be Foward .. am I understanding you correctly? I can find out the answer if I don't know it.
@@EFactorOutdoors , Thank you for replying. I appreciate your time.
Let me put it another way. Hustler mounts their transmission with the pump and motor following the axle where Cub Cadet mounts theirs with the pump and motor leading. It seems there would have to be a part change to allow the 180 degree difference in orientation in the chassis? The control arms on the Hustler appear to be the same as those on the Cub Cadet but they face different directions. It seems the differences would be internal.
When the sticks are pressed forward in these two opposing layouts the swashplates are moving in opposing directions yet the mowers move in the same direction. How could that be?
I'm still guessing there's a difference in center sections. Aren't they just valve bodies controlling fluid routing? Do these routes get flipped between the two examples? I'm still learning so these are more questions than suggestions.
Thanks again. If this all works out, I'll be buying your transmissions by the pallet!
It took a while to sink in but I think I understand how it works now. It took more time laying on the garage floor but I think I understand where the difference is.
The axle rotates in the oposite direction that the top of the control arm is pushed. It doesn't matter which way the transmission is faced, control arm and tire tread go in opposite directions. The difference is in how the spring reverse return to neutral mechanism is installed and the amount of stick travel allowed. The stick travel in forward and reverse on my machine are limited by the length of the slot in which the sticks sit. The spring reverse return to neutral mechanism gets mounted one way or the other depending on whether it's forward or rearward facing.
To be honest it sounds like you know more about it that me. We have alot of engineers and I not over the entire transmission unit. I just make the main housing, the side housing, and the center sections. Well I don't make them myself but I own the cnc manufacturing processes, operator standard work, quality inspections, etc. My goal is to make a robust process that makes very little scrap and also is efficient. Anyway blah blah sounds like you got er figured out man.
Can you tell me what size fuses are underneath the seat?
Sure. It's a 20amp. Hope that help cutie I'd love your support on my page thanks
@@supermanclarkkentsr4667 😬 don't be a simp
Is it the 2200 Hydros?
Yea EZT 2200
Which series hydrogear would you recommend for a 2.5 acre residential yard? Would the zt2800 or 3100 series be a good option to look for? I have a John Deere with zt2200s and the right side has failed twice in 450hrs. Needing to find a solid 52-60” machine in the $4K range..
Yep. Go for the zt2800 or up. The 2200 should have lasted much longer if it was in a machine with proper application. (Pretty much weight and type of use).
What brand and model did you have?
What type of terrain you mowing in?
You towing anything with the mower?
E Factor Outdoors - DIY Hunting Fishing The 2200s are in a 2010 JD z225 42”. I do have one steep slope that runs the length of my yard but I take it easy in general and don’t feel that I’ve abused it. Tbh I’ve had a lot of issues with it in 450hrs. Idler-tensioner pulley, both deck spindles, both the drive and deck belt have failed, and the key switch quit working and had to be replaced...I’m really liking the looks of the Husqvarna mz61, it’s got a 27hp Briggs with zt3100s and 61” deck. They are running $5k everywhere I’ve looked but one of the local shops has a demoed one with like 15hrs for $4400
well----just purchased a 48 got a great deal on it----my 5 year old crafstman with kohler--left spindle has so much play cant scream above the noise when turning--last crafstman lasted 10 years--put 1 set new spindles at 8 years on it--this last one is frigging junk---SO that why i went with husqvarna--deck/frame welded--as well as the warranty on the deck plus 5 years on the engine--PLUS zerx fittings too--just tired of the MTD[made to die] JUNK!!!!!!
MTD has many different product line and actually just came out with done amazing commercial products. Their new residential zero turn from last year is also amazing. The Ultimate series!!! The MTD lawn tractor of Craftsman brand you had was probably not designed for 10 years of use.. it was probably also priced very cheap and served its purpose for that market. You usually get what you pay fir you know what I mean?? Congrats on the Husqvarna purchase by the way. I’m obviously a fan.
How is the kohler 7000 going...i got stung by the courage
@@johnbiggins4864 kohler is still running fine--ive never had issues with kohler--they are friggin monsters--its just the junky mtd frames and working are just NOT going to last--regardless. i dont care to pay more for a mower--as long as i get one that doesnt need all new spindles after only 4 years of every other week use during summer months--and im very meticulous in maintenance--so--i guess thats why engine is still a mule--BUT--oh well lesson learned. so far i love my 48--husky only time will tell the next story--so far so good!
Which is the $4300 mower you would buy?
Hustler raptor Sd
My puppies don’t have a geese’s fitting
What different of this engine and kawasaki?
Everyone has their favorite and thinks one is better. That’s the only reason mower manufacturers offer multiple brands. They are all good. Anyway if I was recommending a brand , I’d say go with a Kaw
My New Mower (Toy)
Can I get away with using this on 5 acres a week?
Sure just depends on how fast you want to mow .. a commercial mower will take half the time because it’s so much faster
Have that exact mower. I mowed naked and the seat sticks to my a$$. Not much of a fan of Biggs and Strap-on engines. I've had Bad experiences with them. I do like the Kohler's and Kawasakis.
I don't like mowing naked.. afraid my junk is going to get caught in the blades. The engine in my mower is a Kohler
@@EFactorOutdoors Ouch !
JUNK JUNK JUNK ! BEARINGS ! THEY WENT CHEAP !
I have 674 hours on mine and it’s totally beat
That’s a lot of hours on a “low end” residential mower. Mine is also beat up but I blame myself lol
E Factor Outdoors - DIY Hunting Fishing yes it’s a lot of hours. I’ve had to replace one transaxle weld the deck several time’s and replace almost every bearing! I have had electrical shorts engine problems etc! Husqvarna wouldn’t stand by their warranty even when problems came about around 100 hours. With the money I’ve spent out of pocket I could have just originally bought the Toro time cutter that I have now. I can’t recommend the z254 to anyone seeing mine is garbage!
@@wva_trucks2336 sorry it's because you leave it outside
C
my 100 hour review on a VERY well maintained z254,,, center deck pulley bearing defective,,,, front spindle shaft bearings defective,,,, but the very worse thing at exactly 100 hours the LEFT hydro gear seals are leaking causing big issues !!!??? 1300$$$$$ not serviceable is bullshit ! i guess i got a friday machine
Im not suprised about the deck bearings. But i am suprised about the transmission leaking. Was your dealer or hydrogear able to help at all?
BRAINWASHED my left hydro gave out before 100 hours and I had to pay out of pocket! The zt2800 serviceable is a nice upgrade on my new mower! Sad the z254 didn’t last 3 years before turning into complete trash
My hydro gear lasted 4 years or 300 hours on 2 plus acres. The rest of the Z254 still looks great. The Kawasaki engine is still strong. At 7 to 8 hundred dollars a piece (transmission) plus labor, I may buy a new mower. I fail miserably on maintenance, but the hydro gear is maintenance free. I do weigh 260 lbs , usually cut at the lowest height and cut to where I push the cuttings in same direction. These 3 things are extra stress on the 2 transmissions or hydro gears. It's a small part buried in middle of the hydro gear that wears loose. Saw a demo on utube. 4hrs labor for 1 side. Not sure I can fix it.
These d@mmm things need to be designed so they never need greasing... because they never will be. Also, I don't advise rinsing it out, you're just going to cause rust and get whatever grass is in there soaking wet to cause more rust. Best idea would be to blow it out with a leave blower into every nook and cranny you can get into... that's what I do on mine. SPraying water all over equipment like this is a universally bad idea... I know people do it to their cars and that's a bad idea as well :-/ Better ways to clean it than spraying water into every nook and cranny.
While I don’t totally disagree.. there are many end users who won’t buy a machine without greaseable components. These will last longer than sealed units that are “maintenance free”. Personally, I grease all zerts every other time I mow.
Omg I was trying to watch a informative video, it’s a 7,000 series, not 700! That’s seven thousand not seven hundred 😜 , oh and grease last months not days! So you don’t have to grease every time you mow! Oh and change that oil… wow!
NO SPRINGS OR CUSHION ON SEAT, WILL BEAT THE HELL OUT OF YOU !
My mom's stopped moving completely after only a few years. What a POS. Engine runs, little neutral hooks are in right place, it just won't go forward or backwards or anything. What a piece of junk. She babied hers and just mowed with it... so I'm like WTF Husquavarna.
Sounds like the drive belt that goes from the engine pulley to the transaxle pulleys slipped off it broke.
I don't need nor want to see your face while you tell me about a product. Just show the product... unless you only do these videos so you can be on camera. In which case your opinion now means nothing to me. You're not giving this review for the sake of giving us information, you're doing it for an excuse to be on camera.
Get a scag. It’s better then this piece of shit.
100% better but you buy what you can afford. Plus I didn’t know any better at the time.