I got this mower specifically to be able to drive it through a 36 inch door th-cam.com/users/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend or gate It is a little tight with the grass deflector installed but has more clearance with the deflector replaced by the recycler/mulcher. This model appears to be popular and a little harder to find for that reason. I can't judge the dependability as I have only mowed the yard twice but everything else on the mower is very nice and working fine so far. I added options for the run hour timer, arm backrests, recycler/mulcher, towing bracket, deck lift assist and cover.
Thanks so much for posting this video! You helped me out and I appreciate it a lot. Even down to knowing that another brand of mowers part would work if it had the same plup in patern. Thanks again.
I am in the middle of putting a 28hp B&S back together from a governor replacement. The governor was exploded internally. And if that is the case on your engine, then you have metal fragments floating around internally. I.e. get the governor hooked back up and make sure you see the governor arm moving. That would at least validate that it is internally functional and isn’t waiting to cause a catastrophic failure to the engine.
I am not sure the motor on his but it appears to have the old style fan vien type. Most of the bigger motors now a days use a internal like you are talking about. briggs intek are known for it to mess up. I actually had a friend bring a motor by my house last year and had me tig weld his back together. He had took the engine down but was to cheap to buy new parts. LOL It worked fine. I have this exact mower but mine has the 20 hp briggs I am not sure what this is it might be a Kawasaki they made this mower over the years with three different motors they also have a kohler vs. But my briggs intek is a single barrel carb so I know it is not that. I really hope mine holds up.
The anti back fire solenoid on carburetor can and will get sticky and be intermittent on working even after removing and cleaning. I usually just cut the metal rod (pintle) off and disable it. The plastic piece by the flywheel fan is the air vane choke or governor. It operates by movement of the fan and engine speed. Usually on see these on push and self-propelled mowers. Relays are often overlooked and don't go bad as often as safety switches, bad grounds, or solenoids. Glad to see you got it running.
To lessen/stop backfires and dieseling, simply return throttle to idle for 10-30 seconds and then shut off Engine. A side note: these solenoids usually function fine when you are running equipment daily. It is the periods of sitting and occasional use that causes the sticking and intermittent problems.
@@garagestory Looks like the issue is the throttle cable is connected directly to the governor arm so it is unable to control the idle since the cable is preventing it from freely moving.
You might have to double ground the solenoid I've seen that done before the One that is a strange one to replace is a solenoid on John Deere lt 133 some times you have to prime the fuel pump if it's been dry for awhile
I have a 4619 put all new on it but relays can't get nothing out of key but if I put a jumper wire on solenoid I can get it to turn over would it be the relays?
I have a Z254 with the Kawasaki fr691v engine. Middle mow it cuts off.. I started off with what I thought was a bad battery it wouldn’t jumpstart so I replaced it and then nothing happened the key comes on and it wouldn’t even click the solenoid.. I replaced everything as follows: Ignition switch, spark plugs and coils, fuse, relay(same as in video), solenoid, starter, stator (charging coil under flywheel). Now I had power and with a brand new higher CCA battery it fired and was running but very high rpm then locked up and shut down and blew the fuse, I replaced the inline housing and fuse and now nothing but the clunking/clicking noise from the solenoid when the key is engaged, but will not fire up at all. I am beyond frustrated and I have tried everything from your videos and 20+ others. I tried jumping the new starter directly and got a huge spark and then smoke from under shroud and now I am don’t have a clue where to go. Any ideas?
Wow…. That’s quiet the ordeal! Can you spin the flywheel over by hand? I’m a little concerned that the new stator may have got caught on the underside of the flywheel.
@@garagestory I can rotate the flywheel by hand but only if I remove the fan and crankshaft bolt then break loose the flywheel and then put it all back on and it will spin clockwise and counterclockwise a couple rotations in both directions but eventually stops again. so my initial thought was that I “crossed” the wires on the stator but come to find it doesn’t matter they are both AC power so I saw some smoke coming from under flywheel when I first changed stator and attempted to jumpstart the engine but I took the cables off quickly and there is no visual damage and the connections and wires are in good shape.
I know this is an old video but I’m getting no power even to the hours gauge. I don’t see any bad wires. I’ve jumped the starter and it turned over. Would the solenoid cause no power to the gauge as well?
I'm having a issue where the mower starts but if I don't immediately pull the lap bars in inwards the mower will turn off. If I try to let it ideal with the lap bars out it will shut off. Any idea what could cause this. Had electrical issues similar to yours and what I found was the contacts in the PTO plug had split.
I have a 2023 z248 and it starts up but when i touch the right stick it shouts off what you think could be the problem do you think its the safety switch
I had the engine idling. I even moved it a few times, but when I touch the right stick by mistake, it was stalling out, so I knew the problem was coming from that area.
Hey, awesome video! Was great to see your reactions after it started!!! Lol. Great channel! Love watching you! Do you believe in Christ as your Savior? Sorta a random question just curious. I was kinda feeling like you were idk😂
Well ok I agree. But it out in Oklahoma right? I can even get anyone to give up a zero turn out here in s.c. they treat those things like gold out here. They are so expensive and they just have so much money in them,they don't want to get rid of them cheap. But I really do enjoy your vids. I learn a lot from them.
I’ve had (hopefully fixed now) this same issue with my z254 for the last 2+ years. It would start 50/50. I’ve gone through all the safety switches/starter solenoid, fuse, etc. I was close to throwing in the towel and taking it in. Very frustrating as it works great when it starts! A few days ago I finally got it going by removing the same relay/reinstalling. So it is working “sometimes.” Weird how I found your video a few hours later where you fixed it with another relay! I was actually looking up how to bypass everything when I found your video. I have a new one on order. I have 4 spare relays, but they are all 4 pin… Quick question. Could this relay effect the PTO also? As this intermittently doesn’t work also. I tested the PTO switch and it checks out. Thanks again!
Excellent question! I don’t really know the answer. It’s possible it’s related. I’d have to study the wiring diagram again. Maybe there is another relay in the PTO circuit that is going bad?
@@garagestory thanks garage story I'm trying to figure out now where the relay is located and I can't find anything online I found a guy online with a pzt60 just waiting on him to respond thanks again preciate it
Could I ask a question about this same model mower? The Z246. I don’t have any electrical issues at the moment, BUT my BIG issue is. The deck belt constantly comes off while engaged. I can literally mow 40 feet to 70 feet belt pops off. I’ve had deck down and replaced NEW both blades, spindles, both pulleys for those as well, brand new belt as well. All at same time. I’ve adjusted the spring/tensioner (eye bolt basically with 2 jam nuts) and STILL same thing. Belt continues to come off. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated here in North Carolina. Thanks for all your work n videos.
Wow, that is baffling! I don’t know that I have a real answer for you, unfortunately. You might check the below items, though. 1) Is something out of alignment? 2) Are all the replaced items correct? Like is the belt the OEM length 3) Is the PTO clutch in good condition? Is it bent? Also, the decks on these tend to break on one of the back mounts. If it is breaking at the mount, it might make things not aligned properly.
I am only 3:25 in and I must say it is painful to watch. A solenoid needs to be bolted down to a grounded part or the frame in order to make a circuit if they are hanging in the air the coil in it cant get a ground. I'm going to try and finish this video and I will give you like for the effort. Anytime you look at something to troubleshoot it try and think how it works. A solenoid is a heavy duty contact switch activated by a small electromagnet. The coil has to have ground. I have this same mower it is a long story on how I got it. But it was at a tractor supply like store and had a sign on it that said buy as is needs a battery and belt no warranty. I asked if I bought a battery and tried it and it does not run & I don't want it can I return the battery. I told him if so and it runs or wants to run I will buy it and the battery. So I started it and it ran. I paid the huge asking price of 200 bucks. plus battery a key and tax. I guess dude that purchased it originally used it 3.5 hours and hit something hard breaking a spindle and bending a blade. It also would not start. So he returns it to be fixed and they sent it to the mower shop for warranty and was going to fix the motor and he would be responsible for the rest... Whatever?.... he hit was so hard that it stopped the motor instantly and sheard the key off of the flywheel shaft😲 But somehow they mower shop ends up keeping it all winter and the first of the new spring the dumb farmer asked for it back. They repaired the motor but nothing else but they had let his new mower set outside at the mower shop all winter and it looked weathered. So he said he did not want it, he wanted a new one. So they gave him a new one and mine set in their backroom for the next 3 years when I bought it. It is a 2020 Model less than 4 hours all total I have less than $450 in brand new mower after fixing everything. The plastic has faded some and the seat has a few cracks but man it cuts nice with a couple G5 gator blades. Very smooth cutting I love it and it is my first zero. The dumb farmer guy did not even cut the wire holding the deck up that the factory puts on them for shipping purposes. You are going to like this mower when you get it going.
A plastic case relay doesn't ground out to the frame it's bolted down to isolate vibration and keep it in place know it all the relay itself has a ground wire that runs from the bottom side where all of your connections are located that yes must be grounded to metal too bad you just want to make this guy seem like he doesn't know what he's doing when he's actually pretty sharp even he doesn't consider himself smarter than anyone else
@@ronaldshelton8029 This solenoid does not have a seperate ground nor do most of them. Some maybe yes but most do not. You can clearly see a metal on it that it bolts down with. This is the ground to close the coil when it is energized. I know I am right as I have the same mower and have worked on mowers and engines longer than he has been living.. It has a battery cable in battery cable out and the one wire post to start no extra ground wire as it grounds to the metal base. You can clearly see when he removes it and hooks the jumper cables he is grounding the Metal base. So I guess I will have to disagree.
I've usually found if it's not a bad wire or fuse, and your electrics are good it's always a dang safety switch.
Where are the safety switches??
Thanks, that relay was my problem too.
Sweet! I’m glad the video was helpful
Just got one in today. I’m going after that relay based on what I just saw. Thx for the video,I’m subscribed and following as I myself fix mowers.
That’s great!! I hope you get it running well.
I got this mower specifically to be able to drive it through a 36 inch door th-cam.com/users/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend or gate It is a little tight with the grass deflector installed but has more clearance with the deflector replaced by the recycler/mulcher. This model appears to be popular and a little harder to find for that reason. I can't judge the dependability as I have only mowed the yard twice but everything else on the mower is very nice and working fine so far. I added options for the run hour timer, arm backrests, recycler/mulcher, towing bracket, deck lift assist and cover.
Yep! Except it turns out the engine has issues…
Good job ! I have one that's giving me starting issues too. I'll be changing out my solenoid also.
Thanks! I hope that fixes your starting issue!
Thanks so much for posting this video!
You helped me out and I appreciate it a lot.
Even down to knowing that another brand of mowers part would work if it had the same plup in patern.
Thanks again.
I’m glad I could help!
It is more than just the plug pattern, all the other functional indications on the relays looked to match.
I am in the middle of putting a 28hp B&S back together from a governor replacement. The governor was exploded internally. And if that is the case on your engine, then you have metal fragments floating around internally.
I.e. get the governor hooked back up and make sure you see the governor arm moving. That would at least validate that it is internally functional and isn’t waiting to cause a catastrophic failure to the engine.
Thanks!
I am not sure the motor on his but it appears to have the old style fan vien type. Most of the bigger motors now a days use a internal like you are talking about. briggs intek are known for it to mess up. I actually had a friend bring a motor by my house last year and had me tig weld his back together. He had took the engine down but was to cheap to buy new parts. LOL It worked fine. I have this exact mower but mine has the 20 hp briggs I am not sure what this is it might be a Kawasaki they made this mower over the years with three different motors they also have a kohler vs. But my briggs intek is a single barrel carb so I know it is not that. I really hope mine holds up.
The anti back fire solenoid on carburetor can and will get sticky and be intermittent on working even after removing and cleaning. I usually just cut the metal rod (pintle) off and disable it.
The plastic piece by the flywheel fan is the air vane choke or governor. It operates by movement of the fan and engine speed. Usually on see these on push and self-propelled mowers. Relays are often overlooked and don't go bad as often as safety switches, bad grounds, or solenoids. Glad to see you got it running.
Thanks!
Yeah, the carburetor solenoids don’t seem to be quite the same again after they have been frozen.
You can't disable those down here in GA, these air cooled engines run so hot they tend to backfire or diesel on our commercial applications.
To lessen/stop backfires and dieseling, simply return throttle to idle for 10-30 seconds and then shut off Engine. A side note: these solenoids usually function fine when you are running equipment daily. It is the periods of sitting and occasional use that causes the sticking and intermittent problems.
Having same issue with z48F replaced battery, solenoid checked all safety switches never knew that relay was there hopefully this fixes mine 👍
Yeah, I hope that fixes it for you! It’s pretty easy to do.
Definitely need the blower housing to create draft that actuates the governor fan blade
I’m not %100 sure, but I think the fan blade is for the choke, not the governor. The governor seems to be on a shaft that comes out of the engine.
@@garagestory Looks like the issue is the throttle cable is connected directly to the governor arm so it is unable to control the idle since the cable is preventing it from freely moving.
Thanks, I Watched ur video.
Helpful for me.
Fuse, simple fix.
Keep up the great videos.
Glad I could help!
You might have to double ground the solenoid I've seen that done before the One that is a strange one to replace is a solenoid on John Deere lt 133 some times you have to prime the fuel pump if it's been dry for awhile
My man. You just saved me $200. My safety switch to the right arm was sticking. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU.
You have a new subscriber.
I’m glad you were able to get it fixed!
Thanks for the sub!
Great video thank you.😊
👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Well done!
Thank you!
I have a 4619 put all new on it but relays can't get nothing out of key but if I put a jumper wire on solenoid I can get it to turn over would it be the relays?
I can’t say for sure, but it sounds like it could be. Especially if you’ve replaced everything else
I have a Z254 with the Kawasaki fr691v engine. Middle mow it cuts off.. I started off with what I thought was a bad battery it wouldn’t jumpstart so I replaced it and then nothing happened the key comes on and it wouldn’t even click the solenoid.. I replaced everything as follows: Ignition switch, spark plugs and coils, fuse, relay(same as in video), solenoid, starter, stator (charging coil under flywheel). Now I had power and with a brand new higher CCA battery it fired and was running but very high rpm then locked up and shut down and blew the fuse, I replaced the inline housing and fuse and now nothing but the clunking/clicking noise from the solenoid when the key is engaged, but will not fire up at all. I am beyond frustrated and I have tried everything from your videos and 20+ others. I tried jumping the new starter directly and got a huge spark and then smoke from under shroud and now I am don’t have a clue where to go. Any ideas?
Wow…. That’s quiet the ordeal!
Can you spin the flywheel over by hand? I’m a little concerned that the new stator may have got caught on the underside of the flywheel.
@@garagestory I can rotate the flywheel by hand but only if I remove the fan and crankshaft bolt then break loose the flywheel and then put it all back on and it will spin clockwise and counterclockwise a couple rotations in both directions but eventually stops again. so my initial thought was that I “crossed” the wires on the stator but come to find it doesn’t matter they are both AC power so I saw some smoke coming from under flywheel when I first changed stator and attempted to jumpstart the engine but I took the cables off quickly and there is no visual damage and the connections and wires are in good shape.
Great job . helpful video
Thank you!
Same problem with my Hustler, but I thought the thin wire going to the spade contact on the Solenoid had 12v from the ignition switch?
I know this is an old video but I’m getting no power even to the hours gauge. I don’t see any bad wires. I’ve jumped the starter and it turned over. Would the solenoid cause no power to the gauge as well?
Have you checked your fuse(s)? That would be the first place to start
I'm having a issue where the mower starts but if I don't immediately pull the lap bars in inwards the mower will turn off. If I try to let it ideal with the lap bars out it will shut off. Any idea what could cause this. Had electrical issues similar to yours and what I found was the contacts in the PTO plug had split.
I love this stuff man lol
😎
Thanks
I have a 2023 z248 and it starts up but when i touch the right stick it shouts off what you think could be the problem do you think its the safety switch
Does the left side do the same thing, or just the right side?
@@garagestory it was only happening on the right side when I wiggled it it kept shutting off and starting up now it’s just not starting at all
I had the engine idling. I even moved it a few times, but when I touch the right stick by mistake, it was stalling out, so I knew the problem was coming from that area.
Any ideas?????????
@@garagestory Yes
Hey, awesome video! Was great to see your reactions after it started!!! Lol. Great channel! Love watching you! Do you believe in Christ as your Savior? Sorta a random question just curious. I was kinda feeling like you were idk😂
Absolutely!
Thanks for watching!
Cool
Thanks!
i just want to know how you find such gr8 lookin mowers for free
They don’t all look great!
Well ok I agree. But it out in Oklahoma right? I can even get anyone to give up a zero turn out here in s.c. they treat those things like gold out here. They are so expensive and they just have so much money in them,they don't want to get rid of them cheap. But I really do enjoy your vids. I learn a lot from them.
I’ve had (hopefully fixed now) this same issue with my z254 for the last 2+ years. It would start 50/50. I’ve gone through all the safety switches/starter solenoid, fuse, etc. I was close to throwing in the towel and taking it in. Very frustrating as it works great when it starts! A few days ago I finally got it going by removing the same relay/reinstalling. So it is working “sometimes.”
Weird how I found your video a few hours later where you fixed it with another relay! I was actually looking up how to bypass everything when I found your video. I have a new one on order. I have 4 spare relays, but they are all 4 pin…
Quick question. Could this relay effect the PTO also? As this intermittently doesn’t work also. I tested the PTO switch and it checks out. Thanks again!
Excellent question! I don’t really know the answer. It’s possible it’s related. I’d have to study the wiring diagram again. Maybe there is another relay in the PTO circuit that is going bad?
My Pzt-54 I've changed the key switch Sylinoid starter still won't crank over
Maybe it’s the relay. That’s what I ended up replacing.
@@garagestory thanks garage story I'm trying to figure out now where the relay is located and I can't find anything online I found a guy online with a pzt60 just waiting on him to respond thanks again preciate it
Mine was under the control panel on the right hand side.
Could I ask a question about this same model mower? The Z246. I don’t have any electrical issues at the moment, BUT my BIG issue is. The deck belt constantly comes off while engaged. I can literally mow 40 feet to 70 feet belt pops off. I’ve had deck down and replaced NEW both blades, spindles, both pulleys for those as well, brand new belt as well. All at same time. I’ve adjusted the spring/tensioner (eye bolt basically with 2 jam nuts) and STILL same thing. Belt continues to come off. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated here in North Carolina. Thanks for all your work n videos.
Wow, that is baffling!
I don’t know that I have a real answer for you, unfortunately. You might check the below items, though.
1) Is something out of alignment?
2) Are all the replaced items correct? Like is the belt the OEM length
3) Is the PTO clutch in good condition? Is it bent?
Also, the decks on these tend to break on one of the back mounts. If it is breaking at the mount, it might make things not aligned properly.
What part number for relay?
I bought some Bosch 0 332 209 150 relays off Amazon.
@@garagestory sweet ty
I'm having same issue , where was that relay at ? All I've found is a fuse
It was in the right hand fender, kind of under the controls. I took off the front piece to access it.
@@garagestory I've looked in there from the top cover . There waht looks like a relay but seems the wires are all made into it and it don't unplug.
Is it the same model of mower?
@@jpdeerhunter35 That is it. I though the same thing on my z254. It will come apart.
Gonna overheat that motor without the shroud , just saying :)
I didn’t run it THAT long, lol!😁
How can i get in touch with with you ???
I am only 3:25 in and I must say it is painful to watch. A solenoid needs to be bolted down to a grounded part or the frame in order to make a circuit if they are hanging in the air the coil in it cant get a ground. I'm going to try and finish this video and I will give you like for the effort. Anytime you look at something to troubleshoot it try and think how it works. A solenoid is a heavy duty contact switch activated by a small electromagnet. The coil has to have ground. I have this same mower it is a long story on how I got it. But it was at a tractor supply like store and had a sign on it that said buy as is needs a battery and belt no warranty. I asked if I bought a battery and tried it and it does not run & I don't want it can I return the battery. I told him if so and it runs or wants to run I will buy it and the battery. So I started it and it ran. I paid the huge asking price of 200 bucks. plus battery a key and tax.
I guess dude that purchased it originally used it 3.5 hours and hit something hard breaking a spindle and bending a blade. It also would not start. So he returns it to be fixed and they sent it to the mower shop for warranty and was going to fix the motor and he would be responsible for the rest...
Whatever?.... he hit was so hard that it stopped the motor instantly and sheard the key off of the flywheel shaft😲 But somehow they mower shop ends up keeping it all winter and the first of the new spring the dumb farmer asked for it back. They repaired the motor but nothing else but they had let his new mower set outside at the mower shop all winter and it looked weathered. So he said he did not want it, he wanted a new one. So they gave him a new one and mine set in their backroom for the next 3 years when I bought it. It is a 2020 Model less than 4 hours all total I have less than $450 in brand new mower after fixing everything. The plastic has faded some and the seat has a few cracks but man it cuts nice with a couple G5 gator blades. Very smooth cutting I love it and it is my first zero. The dumb farmer guy did not even cut the wire holding the deck up that the factory puts on them for shipping purposes. You are going to like this mower when you get it going.
A plastic case relay doesn't ground out to the frame it's bolted down to isolate vibration and keep it in place know it all the relay itself has a ground wire that runs from the bottom side where all of your connections are located that yes must be grounded to metal too bad you just want to make this guy seem like he doesn't know what he's doing when he's actually pretty sharp even he doesn't consider himself smarter than anyone else
@@ronaldshelton8029 This solenoid does not have a seperate ground nor do most of them. Some maybe yes but most do not. You can clearly see a metal on it that it bolts down with. This is the ground to close the coil when it is energized. I know I am right as I have the same mower and have worked on mowers and engines longer than he has been living.. It has a battery cable in battery cable out and the one wire post to start no extra ground wire as it grounds to the metal base. You can clearly see when he removes it and hooks the jumper cables he is grounding the Metal base. So I guess I will have to disagree.
i thought it had to be grounded
You know you can test the solenoid…
🤔