Jeep JL Wrangler Driveshaft Removal and Installation of Heavy Duty Front and Rear 1350 Shafts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Contrary to what some seem to think, the factory driveshafts that come on a Jeep JL Wrangler are in fact, surprisingly strong. The rzeppa joints used are really beefy, the one u-joint that comes on the front driveshaft is a 1330 (bigger than a standard 1310) and although the tube walls are on the thin side, they more than make up for it with their very large cross section. In the past and on a JL Wrangler, I would have recommended that the front driveshaft be replaced after installing a 3" lift or more but thanks to the all new FAD system that the JL Wrangler comes with, there really isn't a need for it. Of course, on a 4-door Unlimited, the rear drive shaft is so long, you really shouldn't have any problems running it even with a set of 37" tires. That is, so long as you aren't running too tall of a lift.
Now, if there is a reason to consider an aftermarket, double cardan u-joint style driveshaft for your JL Wrangler, it'd be because you have a 2-door. Being that the rear driveshaft is so short, a 2.5" lift or more will cause it to sit at a steep enough angle that the CV boots will be in a constant state of pinch. Sooner than later, this pinch will cause the boots to fail prematurely and that'll leave the bearings inside to fry. Also, if you have a 4-door JL Wrangler and are running 3.5" of lift or more, you may want to run a new rear driveshaft as well and mainly because the diameter of the rear factory shaft is so big, it'll rub the side of your gas tank at a full flex. Because aftermarket driveshafts are made with thicker tubes, they can be made a lot narrower diameter and that goes a long way to help out in the clearance department. The same can be said up front as well especially if you're running shocks that allow for big droop. The narrower diameter of an aftermarket driveshaft will do a much better job of clearing things like your skid bar and exhaust cross over.
As you can guess, the last two reasons are why Cindy and I decided to upgrade our JL Wrangler's driveshafts to set of aftermarket, 1350 u-joint style double cardan driveshafts and in this episode of the JL JOURNAL, you'll get to see what it takes to get them installed. As an added bonus, we also included the necessary steps of how to set your rear pinion angle after the install as well. We hope you find our video to be helpful to you and if you have any questions, please let us know.
List of everything you'll need for this here: wayalife.com/s...
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This installation should helpful for any aftermarket 1310 or 1350 driveshaft including those made by Adam's Driveshaft, JE Reel, Coast, Tom Woods, Rough Country or the like.
#jeep #driveshaft #jeepwrangler #jlwrangler #wranglerjl #jljeep #jeepjl #wrangler #wayalife
Nicely done, Eddie and Cindy. Great in depth install.
Thank you. We're so glad you found it to be useful.
Excellent install video Eddie! Very comprehensive with a lot of detail, very well done.
Wrangler JL Mods and Trail Videos thank you. I hope it can be of help to you.
Amazing video! I learned so much! Love the jeep build can't wait for the next video!
Awesome, so glad to hear it :)
I’m currently doing an 8.8 axle swap in my V8 YJ, that is the simplest explanation of how to measure for correct pinion angle I’ve found yet........ thanks........
Thanks Eddie, finally a thorough video of how to change the driveshaft. I hope you’re happy, I bought a Jeep because if watching your amazing videos! Been following WAYALIFE since 2012. Love the videos. Keep up the great work. I’ll see ya on the trails.
LOL!! I'm definitely happy to hear we were able to make video that is useful to you. Also glad to hear you've been enjoying our channel for quite some time now :)
Perfect timing! Need these next. Thanks guys, another A+ video.
Best driveshaft install video I have seen to date! Awesome! Thank you both!
Robert Kalinofski we’re flattered that you’d say as much. Thank you
Awesome job, I am inspired., I look so forward to these videos - really makes my day, and I am learning quite a bit, although I think it would take me a week to get through what you did.
LOL!! Well, I'm glad to hear it. The only thing Cindy and I would ever hope to do is to help others like yourself.
The only video I’ve seen that mentions the angle of the pinion
Glad to hear we were thorough in our video.
Another Great Video! Question... I just installed a 1310 in my front, and have not done the rear yet ( Will soon, but yes I hear the Stock Drive Lines are pretty Strong). My Drive Line Shop that built my Drive Line has always said, that in the World of Jeeping... That for what ever reason if something on a Jeep (Drive Components) had to break... You would want the Drive Line to give way first, because it is the easiest thing to Fix on the Trail? .... And a Side Note on the Wheeling Videos you have recently done... When Mel went up on his Nose, I took the time to Freeze the Video, and was “Really Surprised” to see all of Mels JL pretty much Stock... Pretty Impressive how Strong, and how well the Stock Components perform! Looking forward to what’s next! 😃
FW Schnaar well, I cant speak for your shop being that they’re in the business of making and selling you driveshafts but I prefer to build up my Jeeps to NOT break.
Wayalife ... One thing for sure, having Watched (I think) all your Video’s... You have for sure... “Been there Done that”... Hoping to keep learning from the things you have learned ... Some the Hard Way! 😃
Thanks for this install video … I have been wondering how big of a pain this will be when it is time to do it … does not look to bad !!
I think a rubber hammer could be useful for installing the yoke. You should paint the yoke. I didn't and its rusting (surface rust right now), though I do live in the Northeast. :(
You are a master at what you do. I love your install videos. I just wished I have your knowledge. Another great video.
Thank you. I hope to share some of what I've learned over the years with you :)
I really miss working on Jeeps. Im living the dream through your videos.
Sorry to hear you no longer have a Jeep to work on. But, we are glad that we can help out a bit.
So the o ring doesn’t get swapped over on the front t-case yoke?
I really don't know what i would do without your install videos. Thanks
So happy to hear our videos are helpful to you :)
maybe a stupid question and i'm probably showing my automotive ignorance, but you don't have to adjust the front pinion angle? You just have to do the rear? Or is there no adjustment for the front?
Up front, caster needs to take precedence. If your pinion were to be in line with your driveshaft, you'd have negative caster and that would give you poor handling especially at highway speeds. Also, you need to remember that on a JL, your FAD system keeps your front drive shaft from spinning or at least, unless you're in 4WD.
Awesome instructions thanks for showing us how to do the job the right Wayalife!!!!
Well, our only hope is that we might be able to help guys like you out :)
Thanks for the video, this is really informative and actually helps me understand the transmission better w/o taking it apart!
Awesome, glad to hear we could help provide useful information to you.
Excellent. The pinion and control arm adjustment is something that a lot of shops would neglect.
Your attention to detail does not go unnoticed!
Thank you. Glad to hear you found our video to be detailed and informative.
Eddie I learned so much from this video. Unfortunately I'm still waiting for my JL which is in D1 status of production. Thanks again brother!
I feel your pain. Hope you get yours sooner than later.
Thanks so much, this was the perfect video. I've been wanting to learn how to set my rear pinion so bad and now I can, thank you!!!!! 👍
Awesome! So glad that we could help out with this video :)
@@wayalife what angle finder are you using?
@@advapp use your smartphone, most level apps will work perfectly.
@@advapp Nothing special, just this amzn.to/2CCeIqs
I got Adam's Shaft, its very niice!
great and informative video. can you do a long term reliability video on the JL? any recalls or TSB's or problems or fights with the dealership or did you assume no warranty because of how much you offroad it?
Well, we've only had our JL for a year but yeah, I'm sure we can do something eventually. Fortunately, we have a good relationship with our dealership and that's key in getting TSB and warranty work done without any issues.
I love your installation videos! Please keep them coming.. thanks
We're so glad to hear it :)
Nice job! I am seriously looking at getting a Milwaukee Fuel M18 1/2 inch impact wrench. It looks to me like it works like a beast!
I've been real happy with mine :)
Do you NOT need to set the pinion angle in the front?
Jeremy McLerran nope. Up front, caster takes precedence. If you were to put it in line, you would have negative caster and really poor handling. Besides, the JL has an FAD and it really isn’t needed.
One more thing I am willing to tackle on my own because of your great video. Big thanks for upping my Jeep knowledge.
Awesome, glad to hear we could help to instill confidence in you :)
Another excellent video. I swear you should have your own show on Motortrend. Very professional as always! It's a Wayalife 👍
We really do appreciate it. You are too kind to say as much :)
Love the vids. We should be selling our Beamer later this year for a Rubi to go with our 4Runner. Can’t want to start on another one!
Thank you for you answering my other comment but this is still a confusing subject to me. I've seen 2 videos where they torqued down the pinion nut to 160 foot lbs. One was in a 4×4 shop and the other called Adam's which he was told by Adam's drive shafts that 160 foot lbs wouldn't further crush the crush sleeve. So if you could elaborate on the subject I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
LOL - not sure what more there is for me to elaborate on. Certainly, I would never pretend to know more than guys on 2 other videos.
👍
Another great video!! Your channel has become my favorite on TH-cam. Keep up the outstanding job.
Awesome, we're so glad to hear it. Thanks!
If you love your Ring and Pinion gears = never use an impact on the pinion nut and remove wheels and brakes to measure pinion preload .
OnTheLake why would you need to remove wheels and brakes?
@@davidwayne876 Because of the drag of the brakes , pinion preload needs to be precise . You're trying to measure how much force it takes to turn the pinion and the brakes have a bit of drag. The right way is to not even have the ring gear in either but ....
Great video. Quick question. Does the pinion angle in the front not need adjusted? This will obviously change the caster. Seen another video regarding pinion angle and double Cardin joints that has me confused on front shafts. Thanks.
Proper caster angle NEEDS to take precedence over pinion angle.
Wayalife I thought so. Makes sense. Thanks Eddie.
I’m stuck on the same issue. A double cardan shaft is supposed to have the pinion in line with the shaft, but doing so will wipeout your caster. I agree that caster take precedence but doing so totally takes the shaft out of alignment with the pinion. So is there a better option for the front drive shaft? Thanks!!!
@@presleypictures2533 It won't be off as much as you'd think. So long as the shaft is balanced well, you won't even feel it. If you're really that worried, you can always get an aftermarket axle with more pre-built in caster.
Fantastic, easy to follow, and informative.
Awesome. That's what we hoping for :)
You explain everything so well!
Why thank you, I really do appreciate it :)
Get some ratcheting wrenches 😂😂😂😂but ur vids are always helpfull
Installing tomorrow. Great video thanks!!!
Great video, I see Calamity Jane in there, I actually watched all of that series today, made me want one lol. But my JL
Needs goodies first lol
LOL!! Oh man, working on old iron is what I really enjoy most but the JL is where it's at and a hell of a lot more capable off road :)
Do you notice a difference while driving ? As in less to no vibrations?
So long as your drive shaft is balanced and your pinion angle in the rear is set correctly, you should feel no vibrations.
pinion angle is confusing, I have seen some say there should be a slight difference in DS and pinion angles so there is no occelation, but not sure, also when I was checking my DS angle it was different on the main shaft tube than it was on the slider tube
This is my 2nd wrangler, i ran into a situation where the rear drive shaft exploded n destroyed all of the connector pieces. This video is helping A TON with how to properly remove m do it myself! Thanks for this video, will keep watching your videos going forward 👍🏾 i appreciate it!
Awesome! Glad to hear our videos are helpful to you.
Awesome video. You make it look easy! You are a great teacher!
LOL - thank you. I'm flattered that you would say as much 😎
Thanks for another great video Eddie. Is the purpose of changing the factory shaft out to get a stronger more durable one ? Or was it to help clear the gas tank skid and prevent rubbing? Or both? Either way seems like an upgrade I’ll have to be adding to the long list. Hope to see you at EJS in April.
For the most part, the factory shafts are actually pretty strong and made well too. Their biggest drawback is how big their diameter is and the fact that they have CV boots that don't like steep angles. Needless to say, for our purposes, clearance was a big factor in making this upgrade. If you've got a 4-door and sitting at 3" of lift or less, I would just hold off on making this upgrade until you actually need it.
Thanks for the reply. I have a 4 door with a 2.5” icon lift so this isn’t one of my high priorities. But your install videos make me want to go turn some wrenches, and I have gotten out of my comfort zone and learned a lot working on the JL thanks to your vids. Keep up the good work
LOL! That's awesome and glad to hear we've been of some help to you.
@@wayalife Thank you for being honest. I was thinking the same thing. So many TH-camrs promoting expensive upgrades for no apparent reason but to fatten their bank account but you seem to do it for the art. Good job 👍
wish there was someone like you that had a tacoma . . .
Anthony Payne LOL - we’ll if there were enough time in a day, I’d love to work on Tacoma’s too.
very good stuff man !!!!!....happy i found your site !!!!!
signals34 awesome - glad to hear it 😎
I gotta upgrade mine! I noticed my transfer case or shafts making a squeaking noise at low speeds
Did you adjust both front and rear pinion angle? Or just rear???
With a u-joint style double cardan drive shaft, it is REQUIRED that you set your pinion angle to sit in line with your drive shaft in the rear. Up front, CASTER needs to take precedence over pinion angle.
I have a ton of questions. I will only ask one. Do you notice the new drive shaft when you drive the JL? None of my questions were technical. Just a person that loves jeeps and drives one.
Assuming your drive shaft is balanced and you have your rear pinion angle set correctly, you shouldn't even notice that anything has changed.
Great video! The blue loctite is a removable loctite , the red is more of a permanent loctite.
There is nothing permanent about red. When it comes to driveshafts, it IS what you want to be using. In the over 20 years of doing this, red is always what I've used and it's NEVER been a problem. People who fail to use red end up losing bolts and their driveshafts.
1350 drive shaft are an excellent choice. Great video
Thank you. So glad you liked it :)
Another great video. My 2018 JL has new front but stock rear. Same EVO long rod lift with King coil-overs as mentioned previously. My pinion is definitely not in line with the D shaft. Again thanks for this info. That may be why I hear a rotational vibe at low speed.
A stock drive shaft has rzeppa joints and should not vibrate unless it's be hit by rocks and is damaged and or out of balance. If you removed your FAD, your front shaft is spinning and more likely than not, that's where your vibes are coming from.
I can barely install a light bulb, but watched this video ... you make it look so easy. 😀
LOL - been doing this a while :)
What TH-cam School did you go to? Your Videos are always done perfectly. Thanks
LOL - Cindy just kinda picked it up and ran with it. The beginning of this video touches on it a bit th-cam.com/video/zzf-L12frvI/w-d-xo.html
Super vid! Foolish question, why didn't you check the angle of the pinion on the front? Or is it assumed if you did the rear, you also have to do the front?
Up front, caster needs to take precedence over pinion angle.
I’m sorry wrong subject I was asking about the synergy track bar and scepter shaft brace upgradefor the 2018 jl jeep Rubicon Thank you for all your videos
Oh, okay. It's just a brace that goes over the factory mount. Not sure why that would require anything else to install.
What an Awesome video !
Very informative and now I want to go check my pinion angle after I had custom drive shafts and 3 1/2" JKS lift installed on my '11 Jku. Just to double check things. And, the things I had installed by shop is because I'm in a Wheelchair and to be easier on me physically. But now after watching this vid of yours, I'm gonna crawl under jeep myself with degree finder and check lol.
Thank you Eddie for the time you take to show us your 4wheeling Adventure's and your How-To videos !!
Scott
LOL!! Wow, I'm so glad to hear videos like this can inspire a guy like you :)
@@wayalife Thanks Eddie much appreciate that ! One day I hope we can join you guys on one of your jeep runs.
Scott
Great video. Not sure if the wife thinks so though. Keep coming up with ideas I wanna do once we get my JL!! Not to mention how I eventually want my garage! She now has agreed that maybe we could put in a lift someday down the road! (Mainly because she doesn’t wanna have to help work on the Jeep with me!)
LOL!! In a way, videos like this help save you tons of money and that's gotta count for something :)
Wayalife true, not sure if the wife can see it that way. When she here’s oh I wanna put one of these on or change this out! Haha oh well the videos and follow up are great though very unbiased and informative love it man!
Just got done installing the exact same front driveshaft on a 2018 Rubicon JL with a 3.5" lift. The yoke they gave me is actually hitting the t-case shift linkage when I am in 2H. If I am in 4H or 4L the linkage is rotated far enough that there is no contact. I'm guessing I have a yoke that was forged improperly since it is only hitting on one side of the yoke and just barely clearing it on the other. Took plenty of pics to share with Adams on Monday but thought I'd reach out here and see if you encountered problems like this. Sadly now I won't be running Wayne's World at Sand Hollow tomorrow :(
THANK YOUUU!!!!
You're welcome!!
I guess I'm not understanding this. How are you getting an accurate inch pound reading with the wheels rotating? Probably showing my ignorance but I would like to know.
Just because the wheels rotate doesn't mean there isn't resistance. Granted, it is small and that's why you need to use a very fine inch lb. torque wrench.
You need a crows foot or offset end to torque the transfer case flange bolts. Awesome video, and very informative. 👌
Yeah, that would have done the trick. Fortunately, the way I tightened the bolts in the video have worked well for me for well over 20 years.
@@wayalife oh yeah, I get it. I've done the same myself.
It looks like the 41 in-lbs of torque on the flange nut is really just measuring the torque to start turning the differential. I'm not seeing how this helps establish the torque setting for reinstalling the nut to seat the new flange. Not to mention one hit of the impact driver is way more than 41 in-lbs. What am I missing?
After looking at some other videos and finding this one
(th-cam.com/video/8APYO2sZyJU/w-d-xo.html)
It really explains pre-load well for those of you like me that may not have got it...
Looks like you have to tighten the crap out of the flange nut and it is the resistance to the yoke turning that is the "pre-load" measured with the in-lb indicator - which won't start reading until the yoke is fully set and the slop is taken out.
From another good article I found factory spec preload for the M220 axle is 12-20 in-lbs:
www.northridgenation.com/gears-for-the-jl-wrangler/
I have to assume the reason you measure before disassembly (where you said you got 41 in-lbs) is to take into account the added rotation mass/resistance of the wheels? And this obviously would need to be done with both rear wheels off the ground if one is doing this in their driveway?
I'm not trying to tear apart your video - it is very helpful and informative and you do AWESOME WORK! Being a home mechanic I'm learning as I go and I try to understand everything as best I can.
Thank you, made my front driveshaft on my JT a breeze!
Awesome! We're happy to know that our video was helpful to you 😎
Wow! Best video I've seen so far for this job. Thanks!
Humbled that you would say as much and glad you found it to be helpful.
Liked video very informative
Glad to hear you found it to be informative 👍
@@wayalife wish there people around my area that could show people things such as you have
Hello Eddie, thanks for all your videos, I installed a front Adams driveshaft on my JT but had two things happen, I used blue rtv instead of the black one, and also when I lined the front, the holes didn’t quite match so I had to add some pressure in order for the to line up. Do you think that’s Ok? Thanks again.
Well TH-cam has finally driven me away with the mind numbing commercials. I am unsubscribing from this channel. Too bad because I really enjoyed all of your videos. Sorry.
TH-cam makes a change in how they deliver commercials but somehow, it's our fault and now you've unsubscribed. Yeah, that makes total sense LOL! It's too bad because we produce content that you really enjoyed.
Your right. Google has taken TH-cam from a free video sharing platform to a paid commercial platform. Pure greed!! I still enjoy your videos and have purchased several of your products for my JLRU. I am still subscribed so I will have to put up with Google interfering with my enjoyment.
The musics a bit, largely unneeded and overly loud and overbearing
I realize this may be difficult for you to understand but this video was made over 2 years ago and there really isn't a whole lot that we can do about the music or the sound level even if we wanted to. However, YOU have control over the sound on your computer and I might recommend that you try turning the volume down.
Great video! I’m a novice on mechanical work and I’m ready to go now!
Awesome! So glad to hear our video was helpful to you :)
Doesn’t adding an extension on a torque wrench change the torque specs being put out?
Only if it's a shitty one.
You sure made that look effortless.......like you could do it trailside! Well done!
LOL!! Truth be told, I've done it many times on the trail. Fortunately, not always on my own Jeep :)
Wayalife So next time I hit the trails I will be sure to send you an invite!! Your coaching is amazing & you do trailside repairs.....can you cook?
Ivan Valvassori LOL - actually, yes
Wayalife That’s awesome! I can’t ...but it keeps me humble. I am new to jeeps (2016) but I am the coach/trailside wrench for all my mtb buddies. So now the important question - So...no JL for me, still building my 2016 JKUR but this likely still applies, pinion angle? 2.5” lift - should I be concerned & go for adjustable UCA & LCA or likely not an issue.
Does it matter which direction you install the jam nut on the control arms? Or must they all be pointing toward rear and front toward the front? I've seen videos with them installed in both directions. Just wondering which way was correct?
explain to me please how rotating clockwise measures the torque? in my current job we would just use an electronic torque wrench to measure breaking... does that not work here?
I've a 2021 JL. Can I bring it to you for this same install?
LOL - sorry, I'm not a shop.
What torque did you use for the rear bolts on the front driveshaft?
It should be 29 ft. lbs, which isn't much. It's near impossible to get a torque wrench on those bolts though so I just make sure to use red loctite and tighten them best I can as you see in the video.
Not sure if this question was already asked.
If I am swapping out only my front driveshaft (2019 JLUR, MC 3.5 GC Lift), do you recommend that I also adjust the driveshaft and pinion angle for the front like you did on the video for the rear?
Or does the front drive shaft installation not require the angle and control arm adjustment?
Thanks in advance! and awesome content by the way long time stalker first time commenter! lol
On your front axle, caster needs to take precedence over pinion angle. Setting your pinion in line with your drive shaft will cause your Jeep to feel flighty at highway speeds and or cause poor handling.
@@wayalife thanks for you quick response!! Much appreciated. About to start this build and I am still learning along the way! Your videos help a lot!
I wonder if he knows there are more types of thread locker then just red and some applications red is bad for...
LOL - RED IS what you want to be using on drive shafts. In the over 25 years that I have been working on Jeeps, I have NEVER found it to be a problem removing bolts after the fact. What I have personally seen are bolts coming out and failures caused because of it from people who didn't use red. Stop spending so much time reading nonsense on the internet. It's not all true.
I just installed front and rear adams drive shaft on my jk , but i start to feel vibration in the car , what should i do ?
Remove your front shaft and see if you still have vibrations. If not, you have too much caster set on your front axle. Reduce it to factory which is about 4° and that should help. If so, you might need to have your rear shaft rebalanced.
Hi, where did you get JL service manual? IE for factory bolt torque specs?
I hope you see this! I have a brand new 2023 Jeep Wrangler Freedom edition 4dr (not rubicon) I’m wondering if my driveshaft would handle a 2in lift and 33in tires?
Oh yeah, your factory shafts will be fine with just 2" of lift and 33's especially being that the JL's come with FAD.
@@wayalife thank you so much! I’m new to the jeep world and was worried if I put the dynatrack 2in lift on that I would have to change drive shafts too!
Why did you choose a yoke on the rear axle and to keep the pinion flange on the front axle?
At the time of this video, the only way you could get a 1350 rear drive shaft was to replace the yoke. If there were a flange option, I may have gone with it if only to not have to deal with the crush sleeve.
Would a Crow's Foot 5/8" allowed you to put your torque wrench on it?
Yes
What I did on my pinion nut was count the threads to get it back to where it was before I took it off. It may not have been the correct way to do it but hasn't been an issue in over year / year and a half. I use anti-seize all my bolt threads, even on the driveline.
You put 1350 front & rear
Hows the Adam's coming along i try to watch all your videos. Great videos thank you
They're good shafts but I did have some balancing issues with mine. I took them in to get rebalanced at a local shop and they've been doing well since.
@@wayalife thanks for the heads up.
Have a great day
How do you keep the underside of your jeep so clean?????????????
LOL - it takes a lot of work and really, it doesn't always look this clean :)
Learned so much! New fav term... “Johnny Joints”
LOL!! Actually, johnny joints are specific joints that are made by Currie Enterprises. Not all control arms use them or use knock off versions of them but they are what we prefer.
Excellent informations,and explanations. The Jeeps when were made by Willys and Kaiser, they had a a cap install under pressure in the pinion and transfer fflange, this is very useful to avoid the dust and mud to impact directly over the oil seal. In your video can be seen this cap is using again in the OEM pinion flanges . I think the aftermarket driveshaft maker must think about this simple but very important part to increase the oil seal life.
You need dog bones @ 90* on the torque wrench for the flange bolts
LOL - I realize this may be a surprise to you but this video is 2 years old. As in, you're far from being the first to say as much and I know.
Your channel is amazingly fun to watch! You should have your own TV show 👍
Flattered you would say as much, thank you :)
@@wayalife your welcome!
Hi I’m in the same process. I’m ok with adjusting the rear pinion. With the front pinion angle do I favour the castor or the pinion angle with doube cardan type drive shaft. It has a 2.5 inch lift at the front with 6 degrees castor (adjustable lower front arms) with great steering . Maybe I go back a little on the castor to compensate? Maybe 5 degrees. What would you do? Cheers Phil
You ALWAYS need to yield to caster up front. Factory is +4.2° and that's where it needs to be at bare minimum. More is better but if you're running a higher gear ratio, you may start to feel driveline vibes.
@@wayalife i may leave the castor at 6 degrees. I’m aiming for 5 to 6 degrees. it feels good to drive. The pinion angle won’t be perfect with the double cardan front drive shaft but it’s only engaged while off roading . i will double check castor angle to make sure. cheers Phil
Brought a small digital angle gauge and castor is 5.2 degrees with tyres on the ground.
Also, just saw the pinion angle part. Don’t you want the front joint the same angle as the rear joint? That’s usually how we set up race cars.
Caster needs to take priority to pinion angle up front. On high end vehicles like your race car, more caster is built into the axles so that the pinion will sit more in line with the drive shaft, just like the rear. On a stock axle, setting the caster to anything less than what comes from the factory, +4.2 deg, you steering will feel very flighty especially at highway speeds.
@@wayalife I agree. I’m actually most likely the only person who’s used load cells on various track bars to determine caster needed for corner weights dynamically as well as affect on track bar loading.
But pinion angle we usually set to reduce binding load resistance.
Every time Eddie puts some bolts in Im expecting him to start a pop n lock lesson.
ur work awesome thak u
I will make sure and stay away from Adam’s!!!!
Why?
Dude your videos are the best, hands down
Truly flattered and humbled that you would say as much. Thank you.
One thing my buddies and I do on any bolts that shouldn’t move is make a few marks with a paint pen and inspect the bolt after a hundred miles or so to make sure it hasn’t moved. Loctite certainly works miracles, but this step is some extra peace of mind on bolts that should be torqued to spec.
That's solid advice. I typically mark my bolts and should have included that step in the video.
Wow I didn't know there was that much more to do with the drive shaft guess I'll go to be in the garage again this weekend
You are the best one out there. Explains everything very well step by step
Fkin appreciate you!