I thought a gear reducer would make the output to the wheel turn slower than the axle. So the axle would turn 1.26 and the one to the wheel 1. Thats why the engine goes faster, the bus slower. Mustie1 has a VW bus gear reduction box repair video, where you can see the larger gear is on the wheel shaft.
Front brakes are 70% of the stopping power, weight of a bus from the factory is around 2300lbs. the weight of a type 1 is around 1800lbs, considering the front brakes are 70% of the stopping power, I cant see the rears really making that big of a difference, certainly not enough to notice, and if you feel less stopping power, the cheaper most efficient use of your money is upgrading to a better quality brake shoe. many people likely complain because they have poorly adjusted front brakes to begin with.
I put bus reduction gears in a baja bug years ago...what a headache. After finding out I had 4 reverse gears we flipped the ring gear. It was squirrely to say the least with lots of torque and lift from it. I was never aware of limit straps so we destroyed the trans in quick order. By that time I was disgusted and the magic of my $10,000 investment and 7 years of work dissappeared.. Wish I had now.
Hi Mike, thanks for all your videos, greatly appreciate them. I have a Question: I just got a '67 split window and is all stock with no engine. I have an 1835cc out of my old bug. I would like to put disc on the front with drop spindles and lower the back to match..... say 2" overall drop. Are you saying I can use drop spring plates on the rear and keep my original tranny and gear boxes with original 14' factory wheels....... so it all I need to do is change gear in tranny with 3:44 gearing...... is that correct?
Hello Mike. Thanks for your video. I have a vw beetle 1600 (1983, built in Mexico). I am now putting it reduction boxes (same version/ size as the vwthing). (Years ago I did the same to another beetle, and was VERY useful for offroad----I do landscape painting and go to the desert). Now, if I modify the gearbox (I believe 344 or 388)--in order to have extra speed in 4th gear, am I risking overheating the motor? (fan--rpms-etc? . If that is worthy, which ratio is better? the 344? Certainly I don´t need to go anything more than 100 kph... Thanks for your attention!--José
Hi Mike do you change the hearing yourself in the stock trans or have someone do it? How hard is it to do? How much do shops typically charge to do this?
so a 1776 with a 3.44 gear ratio and pinion on transmission on a stock gear box axle with large bolt nut, would be the sweet spot for a vw bus to run reliable with sufficient hwy speeds? ❓❓❓❓⁉ or the engine can be smaller than 1776 like a stock 1600 and still be sufficiently to handle the heavy load plus passangers and with good speeds?⁉❓
yea I run a 1600 single port with those gears and its perfect. pulls hills in 3rd at 50 or better. plus drives more like bug gear ratios. 3rd gear top speed is almost 60. dual port or single port 1776 is even better have had both with same trans.
You know I am listening to you talks about differences in gear box and what not. But when you said how you lower your bus about 3-4 inches on on 3.44 transmission, I wasn't sure about the gearbox reduction being installed or not! Can you clarify you're explanations a bit more? What iam looking to find out is if the bus can be lowered at least 4" from stock stance with gearbox reduction and transmission! Oh also any pictures of your bus that we can see about height stance? Thanks in advance! i like your videos and finding informative
if you are looking to lower your bus more than 3 or 4 inches you will need to convert the rear to a straight axle transmission. so you need 67 or 68 rear axles from a bug modified spring plates. You will also need to convert your front to disc brakes to make up for the loss or rear braking power from the smaller bug brakes. I also recommend bug disc brakes on the rear as well. you will need dropped spindles for the front too. plus many other items to make it work. usually cost around 4000 in parts or more. FYI you will also need to jack up your spring plate in the rear just to change a tire. Plus you will be narrow. in rear about 2 inches. When you put on disc brakes you can only run after market rims as well and you will need to narrow the front beam another huge cost. I always run stock height. or remove small torsions on front drop rear 1 notch with stock gear reduction boxes. drops about 3 to max 4 inches. Not looking really low. doing a major lowering job costs a lot of money and looses engineering of the bus.
Yeah I am also wanting to keep gearbox not only because of cost involved but also because the gearbox system was intended to have lower end power for climbing in roughly terrain! But i also wanted a little lower than stock height so i guess i can't have both! Hahaha! Thanks for the clarification
you can have similar gearing with straight axle with 4.12 and stock bug trans. works ok but there are a lot of modifications and losses involved with doing that.
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If anyone knows nothing about something... u'll hear the experience in this guy's voice 👍🏻
Thank you for sharing ur knowledge
I'm just starting this journey with my newly acquired 67 bus.
Thanks for sharing I'm sure I'll be watching this video again.
✌️ Peace.
I thought a gear reducer would make the output to the wheel turn slower than the axle. So the axle would turn 1.26 and the one to the wheel 1. Thats why the engine goes faster, the bus slower. Mustie1 has a VW bus gear reduction box repair video, where you can see the larger gear is on the wheel shaft.
You are absolutely correct
Front brakes are 70% of the stopping power, weight of a bus from the factory is around 2300lbs. the weight of a type 1 is around 1800lbs, considering the front brakes are 70% of the stopping power, I cant see the rears really making that big of a difference, certainly not enough to notice, and if you feel less stopping power, the cheaper most efficient use of your money is upgrading to a better quality brake shoe. many people likely complain because they have poorly adjusted front brakes to begin with.
Great video Mike! You should make a new vs of this one and upload it. It's good info.
This has been really helpful and informative, I’m a new owner of a 67 Kombi, and think I’ll stay with the RGB’s 👍
great explanation. Now I can go back to sleep!! Thanks Mike!!
Thankyou for this video! subscribed.
Stock and you are GOOD.
Great clarification of the topic, this really cleared up some questions I had. subscrbied
Leave it all alone. Stock will get you home. You have a good channel. I got my first video done. Just need to find more time to make videos
that is my thoughts. I leave the bus stock then put in 3.44 gears really helps keep the rpms down and makes it drivable for todays freeway speeds.
Mike, location of the shop?
Thanks, Mike I just bought a 23 window with a 46mm nut, I like the idea of a 344 ring and pinion.
works great love those gears. feels like a straight axle but stock height quiet and I can change my tire without a huge hassle.
I’m running gear reduction boxes on my beetle trans in my Baja.
I put bus reduction gears in a baja bug years ago...what a headache. After finding out I had 4 reverse gears we flipped the ring gear. It was squirrely to say the least with lots of torque and lift from it. I was never aware of limit straps so we destroyed the trans in quick order. By that time I was disgusted and the magic of my $10,000 investment and 7 years of work dissappeared..
Wish I had now.
Hi Mike, thanks for all your videos, greatly appreciate them. I have a Question: I just got a '67 split window and is all stock with no engine. I have an 1835cc out of my old bug. I would like to put disc on the front with drop spindles and lower the back to match..... say 2" overall drop. Are you saying I can use drop spring plates on the rear and keep my original tranny and gear boxes with original 14' factory wheels....... so it all I need to do is change gear in tranny with 3:44 gearing...... is that correct?
Hello Mike. Thanks for your video. I have a vw beetle 1600 (1983, built in Mexico). I am now putting it reduction boxes (same version/ size as the vwthing). (Years ago I did the same to another beetle, and was VERY useful for offroad----I do landscape painting and go to the desert). Now, if I modify the gearbox (I believe 344 or 388)--in order to have extra speed in 4th gear, am I risking overheating the motor? (fan--rpms-etc? . If that is worthy, which ratio is better? the 344? Certainly I don´t need to go anything more than 100 kph...
Thanks for your attention!--José
hi what about a thing would i need to up grade the brakes and ratios of the box ...cheers fish in New Zealand
Hi Mike do you change the hearing yourself in the stock trans or have someone do it? How hard is it to do? How much do shops typically charge to do this?
Mike enjoyed the video can you point me to sources on 3:44 r&p and .89 fourth gear set.
So why not go without the reduction boxes and then go with a type 4 motor using dtm cooling?
so a 1776 with a 3.44 gear ratio and pinion on transmission on a stock gear box axle with large bolt nut, would be the sweet spot for a vw bus to run reliable with sufficient hwy speeds? ❓❓❓❓⁉ or the engine can be smaller than 1776 like a stock 1600 and still be sufficiently to handle the heavy load plus passangers and with good speeds?⁉❓
yea I run a 1600 single port with those gears and its perfect. pulls hills in 3rd at 50 or better. plus drives more like bug gear ratios. 3rd gear top speed is almost 60. dual port or single port 1776 is even better have had both with same trans.
You know I am listening to you talks about differences in gear box and what not. But when you said how you lower your bus about 3-4 inches on on 3.44 transmission, I wasn't sure about the gearbox reduction being installed or not! Can you clarify you're explanations a bit more? What iam looking to find out is if the bus can be lowered at least 4" from stock stance with gearbox reduction and transmission! Oh also any pictures of your bus that we can see about height stance? Thanks in advance! i like your videos and finding informative
if you are looking to lower your bus more than 3 or 4 inches you will need to convert the rear to a straight axle transmission. so you need 67 or 68 rear axles from a bug modified spring plates. You will also need to convert your front to disc brakes to make up for the loss or rear braking power from the smaller bug brakes. I also recommend bug disc brakes on the rear as well. you will need dropped spindles for the front too. plus many other items to make it work. usually cost around 4000 in parts or more. FYI you will also need to jack up your spring plate in the rear just to change a tire. Plus you will be narrow. in rear about 2 inches. When you put on disc brakes you can only run after market rims as well and you will need to narrow the front beam another huge cost. I always run stock height. or remove small torsions on front drop rear 1 notch with stock gear reduction boxes. drops about 3 to max 4 inches. Not looking really low. doing a major lowering job costs a lot of money and looses engineering of the bus.
I will make a video on this there is too much to write.
Yeah I am also wanting to keep gearbox not only because of cost involved but also because the gearbox system was intended to have lower end power for climbing in roughly terrain! But i also wanted a little lower than stock height so i guess i can't have both! Hahaha! Thanks for the clarification
you can have similar gearing with straight axle with 4.12 and stock bug trans. works ok but there are a lot of modifications and losses involved with doing that.
are u on the marijuana?
YoshinoyaJones I believe he’s been shooting the pot... 😳
If you want to keep your trans cool drain the oil and put in ATF,used it for years.much better shifting in summer and winter.im in Canada