Good video. Thanks, when adjusting my handbrake recently I found my rear brake shoes were disintegrating. The old O rings and axle seals were worn and some shims had gone missing. Oil had gotten on the brake shoes and made a mess of them. I saved your video in case I have to do any further work down the track. My bearings are okay for now. Probably my fault. I put new shoes and 5 x 130 stud pattern drums when I restored my car. I am good at panel and paint work, however I have to learn the mechanics as I go. Your instruction is great for the beetle enthusiasts out there. New seal kit and bushings in, I will button up with the new shoes tomorrow.
Thanks for the help that your vid offered. With your help I was able to take my axle tubes off, paint everything up, install new parts, preset the cup load and get it all back together. If I knew how to post a picture Id show you the finished product.
Thanks! I struggled to find any decent info myself before I did it. To reassemble it properly you're supposed to measure clearances and all that but mine was fine when i took it apart so I just assumed it was fine when it went back together!
I believe those nuts are supposed to be torqued as per specs (about 14 lbs/ft if I remember correctly); that will help you ascertain accurately if there’s drag between axle tube and side plate under the specified torque. Nice video; thank you for sharing.
I don't think it matters, but I could well be wrong on that! The bearing is lubricated by the gearbox oil that travels up and down the axle tube so as long as it's getting to the bearing I think it'll be OK.
Also when you're putting on the O-ring at the bearing seal you just twist it backwards a little and then push it all the way on cuz you putting it on with the iron cap it gets pinched cuz you can't see what's going on behind that and that's an instant oil leak and gear oil sucks all over the inside of your rims I don't agree with the way you put that together but that's your transmission out here with 234-500 horsepower in California being so hot that gear oil gets thin and that will leak
Interesting....are the bearings on the differential and the axles replacements? The integral seals in the ball bearing units may have to be removed on the diff bearings and at least the inside of the axle bearings I would think.
great videos & thanks for the help , i noticed when you fitted the large sideplate you didnt fit a paper gasket ? is it optional ? just wondering as i am about to put my sons swing axle back on ? thanks again for the great videos 👍
On this particular side plate there's an O ring rather than a gasket. You can just see it at 4:03 I don't know if earlier boxes use a gasket or not though.
Secondly the three shims with the plastic sunflower you always put a little grease on that so it can move a little bit you don't want to tear or ruin the plastic cup and the groove that it fits in all the way around the transmission it can be misleading if you don't put any any grease and it's super tight for the wrong reasons
Great video, I’m doing this right now. Super helpful thank you. One thing, I see you putting everything in dry. Should there be a smear of oil on all the stuff before reassembly?
@@2BugsandaBack thanks, sort of what i thought, but seemed so unlikely, daisy LOOKS ok, and similar to other old ones i happen to have......hell, they ARE 50+ yrs old tho' !
@@2BugsandaBack i have SINCE found out that the 6-hole bolt down plate was dimpled just enough to distort the flatness, maybe from previous overtightening (?) it was tough to hammer & dolly it back into shape because you cant just slide it off the axle tube! creative jigging ensued. its better, COULD be a tad tighter. it ended up using only 2 paper gaskets, but thats gonna have to DO! im tired of #*@!^ing with it.....it was the FIRST thing the local VW guru suggested...now, why doesnt my inner spacer fit nice & flush like in the video? ( 15:14 ) im now assembling vertically-OFF the car, much easier...
I know you were at a shop I know you I saw a race bug in the background that's all fine I I don't I don't doubt your expertise but when you put the big side cover on we use 510 a thin quote of sealant special for the transmission why didn't you use that along with the O-ring especially around the bolt holes
Fair point! I'm not a pro at this just a hobby and I did this job partway through a still unfinished resto project. It'll have to come apart again before the car is finished which is why I didn't put anything on it. To tell you the truth, the gearbox still hasn't even got any oil in it yet!
how do you know when the bearing is fully IN ? does it bottom out ? also, doing this on the car, axles horizontal, the inner distance piece keeps flopping out of its 'seat' in the axle tube ! aahhh!
Bro your video work, lighting and audio is super crisp. much respect. you explain things almost as good as I do lol. what is your video setup and what country are you in?
I'm sure you could. I happened to have it out of the car and that made it much easier. You'd need to undo the axle tubes from the spring plates at the very least.
Hi, Episode 8 shows me removing the bearing but I do it with the gearbox already out of the car. If yours is still in the car, you might be able to undo the bolts at the spring plate and the side cover to allow the axle tube enough movement to get the bearing off that way. I've never tried it like that though, so I don't know for sure if it works or not!
IF you let go the axle, will the weight of it causes to drop down or it shouldn't? I put three shims and if let my hand go, it will drop down on its own weight.
All the books and guides I can find say there should be "slight drag" on the axle tube. I don't know how you'd measure "slight drag" but I'd guess that the weight of the tube would be enough to overcome it. I would think that as long as it doesn't feel loose, you should be OK
It had a huge leak from the boot/side plate area so I decided to strip it and replace everything that might be leaking. It wasn't strictly necessary to remove the axles themselves but with them removed, the gearbox is much easier to work with and it reduces the risk of damage to the axles and diff. I haven't tested it for leaks yet because I needed to get the Bug back on its wheels to free up the lift for one of the other cars. I'm not happy with the paint finish on the box either so it'll all be coming out again at some point, most likely when I split the body from the pan. Thanks for the sub! 👍
I've never tried the solid boots. They are better, of course, but unless they are really, really stretchy I don't know how you'd get them over the cup at the gearbox end of the tube.
No, sorry. It's pretty much identical to this side though. It's been a while since I did it and I can't recall if the side plate is a different size on the other side but apart from that the procedure is the same.
Yeah, I should have used a length of tube or something really, but you can see that I was using a very lightweight plastic hammer so I wasn't exactly driving it on. It was more like a gentle tap. My thinking was that I wanted to apply pressure to the centre race rather than the outer part because that might have put stress on the balls themselves.
As I understand it, everything is lubed by the transmission oil so there's no need to lube anything separately. It's not like an engine that needs assembly lube.
4 years after this video was posted. I did this job and followed your vid step by step. Thank you. I had no problems everything went smooth.
One of most informative I've ever seen.
So good
Good video. Thanks, when adjusting my handbrake recently I found my rear brake shoes were disintegrating. The old O rings and axle seals were worn and some shims had gone missing. Oil had gotten on the brake shoes and made a mess of them. I saved your video in case I have to do any further work down the track. My bearings are okay for now. Probably my fault. I put new shoes and 5 x 130 stud pattern drums when I restored my car. I am good at panel and paint work, however I have to learn the mechanics as I go. Your instruction is great for the beetle enthusiasts out there. New seal kit and bushings in, I will button up with the new shoes tomorrow.
my g i have been looking for this tutorial my whole life. I appreciate your vocabulary also. its dope. ur a legend
I was able to do this job with confidence thanks to this excellent tutorial. Thank you!
That's great! I'm really glad you found it useful. 😊👍
Phenomenal video! I’m in the process of replacing the rear bearings on a 66 VW beetle and this helps immensely 👍🏼 thank you sir!
Thank you so much for these videos. I'm a complete novice and would be lost without these comprehensive guides. got a sub from me
Glad you like them! And thanks for the sub - much appreciated :)
This was the most comprehensive video that I've seen thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Blessings and more blessings to you and your family
Thank you so much for all the knowledge you share you are a blessing.
Thanks for the help that your vid offered. With your help I was able to take my axle tubes off, paint everything up, install new parts, preset the cup load and get it all back together. If I knew how to post a picture Id show you the finished product.
Hey, that's great. Well done :)
I did a bit more work on my Bug last night. And found a lot more rust :(
Just wanted to say thank you for this and the prior (disassembly video). I was having a hard time find good detailed info. A+
Thanks!
I struggled to find any decent info myself before I did it.
To reassemble it properly you're supposed to measure clearances and all that but mine was fine when i took it apart so I just assumed it was fine when it went back together!
It's one thing reading about it in a shop manual; totally confidence inspiring when you see it actually being done.
Thanks! I'm glad you found it useful.
Thanks for sub too 😊
Amazing video. Thank you very much.
Great to refresh the memory and this video is perfect. ✌️
Thanks! Glad you liked it 😊
Really appreciate the time & effort you took to share this - excellent guide
Hi! Thanks so much for your comment. I'm glad you found it helpful 😊
I appreciate you sharing, thanks for your helpful efforts.
No worries! Good luck with your car :)
Fantastic set of videos! Exactly what i was after - Its great to help the DIYer understand. Thanks so much! James from NZ :)
No worries! I'm happy you found it useful :)
I believe those nuts are supposed to be torqued as per specs (about 14 lbs/ft if I remember correctly); that will help you ascertain accurately if there’s drag between axle tube and side plate under the specified torque. Nice video; thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the tutorial. It really helps. Cheers.
You're very welcome. I'm glad you found it useful 😊
Excellent video, thanks for doing it 👍🏼👍🏼🏁🏁
thanks you sir for the great detailed demo
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! I'm about to install new axels on my project car after a loooong break, so this will help me alot. thank you :)
Thanks for the comment! I'm glad you found the video useful. Good luck with your Bug :)
Want to say thanks!! Great set of videos!! Cheers!
Thank you! I'm glad you liked them. I'm no VW expert but I do enjoy working on them
Great video, eager to get started on mine now! Keep the videos coming!
I had to stop on this car for a little while but I'll be back on it again in the next week or so, and there'll be more vids, for sure!
Great work! Very helpful
i subscribed to your channel based on this video. Great job!
Awesome, thank you!
Subscribed as well!
Cette vidéo est très bien expliqué, Merci beaucoup j'apprécie énormément.
Je vous remercie! C'est mon plaisir, je suis content que vous l'ayez trouvé utile
Brilliant video mate, very informative.
Subbed!
Thank you!
And thanks for the sub too. I hope you like badly edited videos! 😂
Thank you mate. Interesting with the bearing facing in. I have always seen the ball bearings out. I wonder if it matters??
I don't think it matters, but I could well be wrong on that! The bearing is lubricated by the gearbox oil that travels up and down the axle tube so as long as it's getting to the bearing I think it'll be OK.
@@2BugsandaBack it was put on the wrong way. Now if the bearing goes bad you can’t pull it out.
Thanks for mentioning this. I double checked and the bearings in my 66 Beetle face out too.
thanks a lot.
nice job
Wonderful !!!
great video.keep on.!!!!
Thanks! The Mexi has taken a back seat while I get the '63 repaired but I'll be back on it soon hopefully
Also when you're putting on the O-ring at the bearing seal you just twist it backwards a little and then push it all the way on cuz you putting it on with the iron cap it gets pinched cuz you can't see what's going on behind that and that's an instant oil leak and gear oil sucks all over the inside of your rims I don't agree with the way you put that together but that's your transmission out here with 234-500 horsepower in California being so hot that gear oil gets thin and that will leak
I love that drag car bug. Good video I’m learning VWs. I got 2. 64 and s 66 bug. You got them clips on fast I hate that part
Thanks!
Yeah, it went together fairly easily. I just hope it stays together!
Hey! I've just noticed your registration number. Mine is BMT 596A.
Cool! They must have come from the same dealership, maybe even on the same day :)
Thank you
Interesting....are the bearings on the differential and the axles replacements? The integral seals in the ball bearing units may have to be removed on the diff bearings and at least the inside of the axle bearings I would think.
No, they're the factory ones as far as I know. This car is a 2000 Mexican Bug
Is the bearing backwards. I am looking at two axles from a 68 and both are ball bearing side out.
great videos & thanks for the help , i noticed when you fitted the large sideplate you didnt fit a paper gasket ? is it optional ? just wondering as i am about to put my sons swing axle back on ? thanks again for the great videos 👍
On this particular side plate there's an O ring rather than a gasket. You can just see it at 4:03
I don't know if earlier boxes use a gasket or not though.
Secondly the three shims with the plastic sunflower you always put a little grease on that so it can move a little bit you don't want to tear or ruin the plastic cup and the groove that it fits in all the way around the transmission it can be misleading if you don't put any any grease and it's super tight for the wrong reasons
Good tip, thanks 😊
Great video, I’m doing this right now. Super helpful thank you. One thing, I see you putting everything in dry. Should there be a smear of oil on all the stuff before reassembly?
Putting oil on everything can't hurt, but I don't think it's as important as when you're putting an engine back together
my axle tube feels loose even with NO gaskets, what happened there? great vids, calm & to the point...
I've no idea! Is the plastic daisy badly worn or damaged maybe?
@@2BugsandaBack thanks, sort of what i thought, but seemed so unlikely, daisy LOOKS ok, and similar to other old ones i happen to have......hell, they ARE 50+ yrs old tho' !
@@2BugsandaBack i have SINCE found out that the 6-hole bolt down plate was dimpled just enough to distort the flatness, maybe from previous overtightening (?) it was tough to hammer & dolly it back into shape because you cant just slide it off the axle tube! creative jigging ensued. its better, COULD be a tad tighter. it ended up using only 2 paper gaskets, but thats gonna have to DO! im tired of #*@!^ing with it.....it was the FIRST thing the local VW guru suggested...now, why doesnt my inner spacer fit nice & flush like in the video? ( 15:14 ) im now assembling vertically-OFF the car, much easier...
I know you were at a shop I know you I saw a race bug in the background that's all fine I I don't I don't doubt your expertise but when you put the big side cover on we use 510 a thin quote of sealant special for the transmission why didn't you use that along with the O-ring especially around the bolt holes
Fair point! I'm not a pro at this just a hobby and I did this job partway through a still unfinished resto project. It'll have to come apart again before the car is finished which is why I didn't put anything on it. To tell you the truth, the gearbox still hasn't even got any oil in it yet!
how do you know when the bearing is fully IN ? does it bottom out ? also, doing this on the car, axles horizontal, the inner distance piece keeps flopping out of its 'seat' in the axle tube ! aahhh!
Bro your video work, lighting and audio is super crisp. much respect. you explain things almost as good as I do lol. what is your video setup and what country are you in?
Why leave the seal in the bearings , as they were a open bearing
Can I do this kind of job with the transmission in the car? Please, let me know
I'm sure you could. I happened to have it out of the car and that made it much easier.
You'd need to undo the axle tubes from the spring plates at the very least.
Can an IRS transaxle be replaced with a swing axle?
Cool video how would you remove the rear bearing
Hi, Episode 8 shows me removing the bearing but I do it with the gearbox already out of the car. If yours is still in the car, you might be able to undo the bolts at the spring plate and the side cover to allow the axle tube enough movement to get the bearing off that way.
I've never tried it like that though, so I don't know for sure if it works or not!
IF you let go the axle, will the weight of it causes to drop down or it shouldn't?
I put three shims and if let my hand go, it will drop down on its own weight.
All the books and guides I can find say there should be "slight drag" on the axle tube. I don't know how you'd measure "slight drag" but I'd guess that the weight of the tube would be enough to overcome it. I would think that as long as it doesn't feel loose, you should be OK
Great information mate, just one thing, the bearing cap that I have seems to small is there two sizes? Cheers.
I don't know. Maybe there's a difference between the swing axle and the IRS ones, perhaps?
Great work and video
why did you take the axles out originally? Was it leaking oil, and if so do you find the source of the leak? Great vid. Thanks.
It had a huge leak from the boot/side plate area so I decided to strip it and replace everything that might be leaking.
It wasn't strictly necessary to remove the axles themselves but with them removed, the gearbox is much easier to work with and it reduces the risk of damage to the axles and diff.
I haven't tested it for leaks yet because I needed to get the Bug back on its wheels to free up the lift for one of the other cars.
I'm not happy with the paint finish on the box either so it'll all be coming out again at some point, most likely when I split the body from the pan.
Thanks for the sub! 👍
Great helpful videos on this. I'm deciding whether to strip the axels of as I'm cleaning my gearbox. Could you not fit the solid non split boots?
I've never tried the solid boots. They are better, of course, but unless they are really, really stretchy I don't know how you'd get them over the cup at the gearbox end of the tube.
@@2BugsandaBack that's what I'm wondering. Must be possible as they where like that originally and you can still buy them.
Plenty of lube and maybe heat it up in hot water.
The worst that can happen is you rip the new boot. Got to be worth a try
@@2BugsandaBack I've just found 3 videos of people doing just that. Thanks
There you go then. 3 people can't all be wrong!!
Does it matter which side the bearing is put in?
The wheel bearing? From what I can remember, they're symmetrical so they'll go in either way.
Any chance you have the video of the other side?
No, sorry. It's pretty much identical to this side though. It's been a while since I did it and I can't recall if the side plate is a different size on the other side but apart from that the procedure is the same.
Are the swing axles of a split trans the same procedure??
I don't know for sure, but I think it would be very similar if it's not exactly the same.
That's odd, 25,000 views, And only 70ish comments... Well I wont put in my 2 cents then mate.
Okay, uhm... Thanks?
Sono silicone on the axle tube gaskets?
It *shouldn't* need it, but a thin smear might not be a bad idea.
I just put it back together so I could get the wheels back on and move the car.
But hey if it doesn't leak for you I guess you're good
What about the gasket
This is a very late (2000 model year) Mexican Beetle and they use an O ring on the side plate, not a gasket
watching you drive that bearing on with a chisle was a bit painful.........
Yeah, I should have used a length of tube or something really, but you can see that I was using a very lightweight plastic hammer so I wasn't exactly driving it on. It was more like a gentle tap.
My thinking was that I wanted to apply pressure to the centre race rather than the outer part because that might have put stress on the balls themselves.
No lube apply on the butterfly.? Or any?
As I understand it, everything is lubed by the transmission oil so there's no need to lube anything separately. It's not like an engine that needs assembly lube.