I still got a Cross commuter bike with 3x9 system. Thinking of switching to cheap 1x10 1x11 with XT shifters as I don't switch from the middle chainring
I've gone the other way few months ago. From 1x9 to 2x10. Way better on long XC rides. Thanks to bigger chainring more speed on flat surfaces and still the same ability to climb with smaller shift gaps.
@@jasonlewis6914 but why? I find 2x setup to be the worst of all. Switching eg. from 24 to 36T or 38T was quite disrupting and useless. I think the only reasonable front chainring choices are either 3x or 1x.
Experiment with your current set up by using only one front chainring for awhile in the areas you ride. I like the middle one on mine which is 38. I use that the most when I ride anyway. I like the sound of the simplicity of a 1x but I already have this by doing nothing and not spending any more money. Biking doesn’t have to be so costly. Thanks for the video.
Seeing all the new bikes with their fancy, simple, lightweight 1x setups had me dreaming of converting my 2016 Rockhopper Comp to a 1x setup. No more chain slap - so simple, elegant and lightweight! But then I started reading all the pro-2x comments, checking into the cost of the conversion, and looking over the rest of my bike (with it's worn out tires, entry level fork with a ding in the stanchion, and old-school geo)...I don't think I'm going to touch it unless something stops working right. Great video though!
I converted my 2X8 Shimano Alivio to Sram GX 1X12 on my Specialized Rockhopper Comp. It was totally straightforward following TH-cam videos, shifts like a dream I love it. I personally would not go back to a 2X setup. Also the bike is now about half a kilo lighter than before.
i tried 1x12 and got back to my old 3x9. It doesn't cover the same range of gears, and i didn't have any problems with 3x9. The chain slip maybe 2 or 3 times during 8 years. I don't see any advantage of 1x except it's 400g lighter
sir. .thank you and shimano. i did this exact build on my early 2000 mtb. .. im loving riding it almost more than my modern suspension bike! cheers from usa!
I love my 1x12 on my Commencal Meta. So much so, that each time I get on my 3x9 hardtail every-day-rider, I dream of switching over. BUT - watching Doddy explain and demonstrate the mechanics is way beyond anything I will ever do!!! Thank you Doddy for this excellent presentation.
1x12 has to be the best setup! That sounds like a nice steed as well! Yeah, sometimes working on your bike can get a little complicated. Doddy covers all bases, so if you can do a full drivetrain swap, you have all the information you need. Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the support! 🙌
Still ride a 3x9. Big ring to the trails, middle ring in the trails, and small ring on the steep climbs. In between I use my right thumb to shift when things get hard and my right index finger to shift when things get easy. What could be less complicated?
I'm in the process of converting my 1x8 fatbike to 1x11, already upgraded from tapered square bb/cranks to hollow ones. Used smaller chainring, lost a lot of topend but I am quite happy with the lowend. Going to upgrade the rear end next month :)
hey i was wondering if you coul help me out I would like to do a simular thing but I have no idea where to start I just want to change the rear end from 7 sprocket to 10 or 11 but I don't know what I would need to do that will all cassettes fit or how do I know what to buy! thanks
Shimano sells the FH-MT401 and FH-MT500 which both have Microspline and are 135mm QR. The 401 has sealed cartridge bearings and an aluminum freehub body and the 500 has angular contact cup and cone bearings with an internal grease sleeve and a steel freehub body.
Am I wrong, or did you omit the cassette from your weight difference calculation? That's the one component that's always heavier with a 1X, because the sprockets get so much bigger to retain the same gear range.
@@Sidowse Yea, the reason behind conversion from 3x(2x) to 1x is to make things simpler and more robust, not to save few grams. I personally ride 2x10 on my XC and I use every gear ration I can.
fixing to upgrade to a 1x11 on an entry leven specialized. the first few videos i watched seem to have over simplified it. your video seems to be a lot more complete. thank you
Good vid you guys dropped there. Ik did a 1x12 conversion recently. But i picked the sunrace 12 speed cassette. It fits the orginal Shimano body. And shifts at least good as the Shimanocasette from one off my Buddies. So no need to change the rear wheel/hub/body there. But i guess if you're teaming up with Shimano for this vid, that couldn't be shared😉
I preferred the 2x on my old bike for trails with steep abrupt climbs, where dropping 1/2 the gear ratio with one click was beneficial. However i find the 1x setup i run now to be far easier to keep in perfect working order.
Finally, the perfect video I always searched and wanted to watch on TH-cam! I've watched a lot but I was waiting for about a year to see a dedicated video uploaded on GMBN! I'm about to change my 2x9 Scott Aspect 950 to 1x11.(unfortunately I can only start by the crankset alone.)
@@peerebeer4507 I bought Shimano Deore FC-M6130-1 Crankset 1x12-speed from bike24's site, it comes with chainline: 56.5 mm, check their website if you want.
The third groupset - 3*9 - on my 28 year old Voodod D-Jab has finally totally self-destructed after a few years of first aid and coaxing. Just ordered a full M5100 set. I'm sure I'm in for a world of hurt making it work properly. But I love my frame.
Good tinkering video. I've done it from 2x on a CX bike and a gravel bike and from a 3x on an old 2007 GT MTB on bikes I own and regularly ride. Easy job for a home mechanic with the right tools....Getting a bit more expensive now with prices for parts getting silly... As for the square taper BB remover, I still have an old Park Tools one residing in my toolbox....It was used many times and borrowed here and there....I'll keep it as you never know....
I currently ride a 3x7 drivetrain from the mid 90s lol. I ride it like a 9 speed. 1x1,2,3, then shift to 2x3,4,5, then 3x5,6,7. Smooth chainlines, wide range.
Yea, I got a bike with a 1x thinking I was 'stepping into the future'. Feels like I went backwards ! ! As soon as I wear out this 1x, Im switching to a 2x.
@@cooltwittertag I'm using it as a single until I need speed or climbing, I don't feel like having to stop, swap out the chain ring just to go up a hill, or to be able to go faster. With a single chain ring you either have climbing, midrange, or speed, but none of them together.
The older bikes I have with a square taper BB, I take it out and thoroughly grease the threads every year, even if the bike gets a few hundred miles dry use only. Modern design is definitely fit and forget until they need replacing altogether.
All my bikes are 1x (1x12 Shimano ful sus, 1x12 SRAM hardtail, 1x9 Shimano gravel'ish and 1x1 commuter) and It's the best invention in the bike industry! Front mechs were just an annoyance. With 1x drivetrain I can focus more on what's important - choosing the right line, giving my best effort, and enjoying the ride instead of constantly thinking if it's the right moment to shift front or rear and paying attention not to drop my chain.
I switched from a 5 speed gear hub to a 7 speed derailleur. I’m glad I’m only dealing with a single chainring. It’s easier to understand what’s going on since I can see all of the moving parts (though the hub may have made maintenance simpler but I haven’t figured out how to deal with anything yet). I was able to five videos showing most things and didn’t have a lot of trouble making sense of things. At this point I might be able to understand multiple chainrings but I still prefer what I’ve got (though trying to ride the 75lb bike over hills is a bit hard).
I am so impressed by the quality of content, production, the level of knowledge and how succinctly it is delivered. You have saved me so much time and frustration. Thank you.
I bought an inexpensive mountain bike from a large retailer. I paid less than $100. for it in early 2022. It has a a 26" wheel, alloy frame, front suspension, and was equipped with a 3 x 7 gearing. Living in flat Florida, I saw no need for the front derailleur, and when I found a problem with it I simply removed it. I did not find any problem with it as a "one-drive". The chain does not pop off the 3rd (largest gear) gear of the three. I removed the twist adjuster on the left side of the handlebar with no problem. No change was made to the pedal bracked gearing. Only some minor adjustment of the rear derailleur might have been required. I don't recall. The adjustment might have been simply to set the rear wheel's high gear (smalest gear) chain position to its innermost so that the chain would not slip off the right side. Seven gears are more than enough for Florida's mountains! It is a shame that so-called "cruiser" bikes have no suspensions from the frame. Biking on the sidewalks is almost as rough as riding the rocks!
Great vid - I was looking at doing this to my aged 3x Hard Rock but I think I'll leave it as is so long as I can actually find a replacement for my badly worn and battered middle chainring .
You just SAVED ME a expensive mistake, I am doing a conversion to single chainring as a birthday gift to my brother and I was about to purchase a 12 speed setup🙄 I wasn't counting on getting a new hub.
Not yet, I'm waiting for the parts I've ordered. Hope that are the right ones. Now it's a matter of waiting and not screw up anything😅 🙏Thanks for the guide !! 🙏@@gmbntech
The Mustache from Park Tool has great advice about tightening the rear hub locknut, suggesting a little looseness is preferred. If you get it too tight, you may see binding after the axle is eventually clamped on.
Simply going 1x won't really save that much weight, Much larger cassette easily outweight the saving of a front derailleur. Especially if any roadie is considering such 1x conversion. The clutch derailleur + 40t cassette + 38/40t chainring easily eats the saving of a Di2 front derailleur and 34t cassette + 50/34t chainring. Not to mention the worsen chainline with extra noise. The real benefit mostly comes from the wide-narrow chainring, and easier maintenance.
It does save a lot of weight tbh, not just the weight of the derailleur but less material on the cranks since there's no 2nd mount, only one chainring and 1x cranks tend to be hollow so even lighter
@@The_Real_JN or you can make two sips of water from your bottle and the weights of bikes then equal. I dunno, weight saving on drivetrain is expensive. It is better to buy better tyres and wheels. I saw nice article about weigth_save/price ratios of different bicycle parts and tyres (at least in mtb) have the highest ratio of them.
@@kosskrit oh yeah don't get me wrong, changing tyres is the first thing I did, plus going tubeless saved more weight. I guess I've only really noticed it on the drivetrain
Where do you ride? Why do you prefer it? I've had all types but I like the 1x much more, my first bike was single back in the early 90's, so I never understood Shimano (my favourite company in the whole world).
@@FirefighterBobby doesnt matter where one rides. Fact of the matter is, a single chainring up front causes very harsh angles applied to the chain. A 2x keeps the chain much aligned in a better position more often. Also, you can use a standard chain which is A: cheaper and B: has more material and will last longer.
Actually the 1x# are actually more reliable and will last longer it’s tougher on the chunkier chain. The 1 by chain is made of stronger metal and designed to be stronger to make up for its skinniness.
@iwontreplybacklol7481 I've found that 2x's are far less reliable and break way easier/have more issues. So it's interesting that you have had the opposite experience.
Or, upgrade a 1X to a 2X drivetrain. Most of the offroad available on my area are gravel roads, so i went from 1X to 2X so that i can ride faster with my 38-28 setup. No need to buy a gravel bike.
This is my problem.. i bought a new bike with a 1 x and I doht like it. The bike is slow and i never had a problem with 3 x ever but the shop talked me into it
currently use a 2x xc bike for commuting but switching it for a 1x hybrid, no hate on the 2x and I really enjoy the gear range but I prefer the simplicity over the gears.
@@SurpriseMeJT fair if you actually need the lower ratios but i never ever use my 46T cog at the back so there's no need for me to have that many gears. I just need to climb short medium hills and need quicker gears for flats. Less drive train components just means less effort cleaning and less maintenance.
@@Metalshark100 so, one more chainring is 'much more maintenance'? Lol front derailleurs are so damn simple, I have a 20 year old mountain bike that Ive tuned up the front derailleur twice on...
Love those 370 hubs. Reliable, cheap, and you can pop out the freehub (tool free) if you are switching wheels/tires. Love them (ps of course the 350 is better)
This is an excellent video but as a layman, it seems overwhelming to know where to start. I want to convert my Calibre Rake to 1x. Looks like I need to do a lot more research yet!
Reading comments was an experience : there's a lot of angry reactions. It's a tech channel teaching you to do a lot of various tech things, sponsor or not, be happy for that. As for the reacts themselves, I'm guessing a lot are coming from old-timers with old gear, or cheap MTBs owners trying to convince themselves really hard they're top of the line and made for the sportiest of people. I have a cheap bike myself, with a 3x8 drivetrain ( always had 3x as a kid in the 90s), I'm used to it, it does the job, it truly has some qualities (very progressive range on the rear, quick skip on the front, relative protection against the chain coming off from the front) but still... You gotta have a seriously fragile ego to defend it against the face of hell. I'm looking into more qualitative bike offerings and I'll be just as glad to ditch the front mech. Thanks for the quality information on those systems Doddy !
I grew up with single chainring bikes and I never really got used to the multiple-chainring setup in the front. Probably it was down to their lower-tier quality, but it has always been a nuisance for me to make a precise change of gears on the front chaingring - may it be a mountain bike or a road bike. Also, in general, I'm the kind of person who admires simplicity in all things, so this trend of going to a singe-setup is appealing to me a lot.
Same here, my first bike was single front and I could never understand what's with all the gears, they even made people think/speak the more the better. Just looks clean and my bikes were always nice. Plus the mech always goes off. Now people got it finaly.
I have a 2008 Specialized Rockhopper that I beat pretty badly the last few seasons. So much I snapped the chain and noticed I have some tweaked sprockets in the stock SRAM 3x8 drivetrain. I had wanted to convert to a 1x, but now the busted chain has given me more reason to do so. When did Micro Spline hit the market? I'm pretty sure I have the older style hub, they are Specialized labeled hubs. I'd love a 1x12, but I'd take a 1x11. Love these videos explaining all the intricate parts of disassembly, reassembly, maintenance and all the rest....great job! I do have a question about rider weight. I am 285 lbs and I know extra weight may add extra wear on the components. Is their a better drivetrain for said fluffy rider to change gears on climbs without snapping parts?
Great video. I went 1x after crashing my cube stereo, breaking myself not the bike. Smashed my left thumb. Moved the dropper post lever to the right. The bike was a 2x11 with shimano XT clutch mech. Have now fitted an Absolute Black Oval concave chain ring. Never looked back. Slick gear changes, very little chain slap, climbs like a goat.
When I changed my hub and he warns about the shallow grip. Yeah my had been on so long I had to use a dead blow hammer to knock it lose lol. The first owner never serviced the hub. Had to use a dremel and cutting disk lol
Has anyone found the 2x system too confusing? Trotting out the 'less confusing', as one of the main reasons to move to a 1x system makes me thing there are no real benefits and this is just the market trying to convince us to buy a new groupset with half the components for the same cost as 2x...but with a worse chain-line at the lowest and highest gears. I have a 2x11 on my trail bike, I don't have an issue with the chain coming off, and I've never been confused by it. The ability to move from a big gear to a small gear in one move by changing between the big and small ring at the front is great on changing terrain.....can't do that on a 1x.
2 x is a great compromise between the old 3x and the current 1x, which is really only desirable on full sus bikes; hardtails work well with front derailleurs, so why mess with something that works? those massive cassettes are heavy and expensive, so maintaining a 2x driveline is easier on your wallet and legs.
My 2x is on a full sus, it works great on it. I don't drop chains, I have a wide range of gears. The only desire I have for a 1x is because dropper post levers aren't compatable with a 2x setup anymore so you pretty much have to either buy old stock or stick with what you've got.
I honestly ride my 2x exactly like a 1x on the trail. The front chainring doesn’t leave the small ring and I just shift the rear. The larger front chainring is only ever useful for me on pavement.
For less experienced riders cross chaining can be an issue or the hilarious irony of a 3x system is just staying in the middle so they don't get that annoying rub on the front derailleur
If you have room for multiple chainrings, there is no reason to downgrade to 1x. There so much misinformation in this video, starting with the supposed weightsaving, I am too lazy to point it all out...
It literally is weight saving though, less hassle having to index gears, a 1x system is easier to clean, quieter and works better than a 2x. A 1x is typically used when you have a larger cassette and it allows more range than a 2x. By the sound of it you're just lazy, hence why you need that 3x or 2x setup to help you get up those small hills
@@The_Real_JN Quieter? Works better? Larger is better? - this is a cassette... 1x is typically used with narrow-wide chainrings, which are horribly grinding, because of the glove-like fit between chain and teeth, where every bit of dirt is too much. The chainline can be straighter with more chainrings, resulting in a smooth, silent drive train. Larger chainrings result in lower chain tension, which makes for a much longer lasting transmission and less flex. Larger cassetes are heavier and they are placed in the rear wheel, opposed to the centre of the bike, where chainrings would be. Multiple chainrings allow for a wider overall range, not only 556% max. A second chainring is handy, if you crash your largest one into a rock... Your turn ;)
@@coolcycles less tension on the chain means more risk of chain slap, aka more noise and damage to your bike without a chain stay protector. Also a slacker chain typically results in a lower quality of shifting since the chain isn't tight, though it isn't so tight to cause any more abrasion to than a 2 or 3x setup, since the chain is grinding against the cassette and front chainring when changing gear. Chain doesn't rattle in the front derailleur so is quieter, and if you hear so much grinding from the front chainring on a 1x then it needs a good clean, not a problem with regular routine maintenance. Lighter, no front derailleur and shifter, no extra cables, larger chainring on the front on a 2 or 3x is more susceptible to damage.
Great, comprehensive and too the point! Thanks for the tips. Could you please add links to the recommended products, do you have a storefront? (Edit: storefront)
Love you explainations. I have a giant 2013 xtc I want to change to 1x. Do I need to change the BB if put a complet new groupset 1× on? Keep up the great vids
Ok so you publishe3d this video a year ago and Trek Marlins 5-6-7-8 go 2x8 1x10 in the middle and 1x12 but I'm looking at the specs on the Marlin Hub and it list the hub as 135 mm using the SRAM Eagle SX groupset.
Some of us prefer two by up front. I know some of you think it's way to complicated and confusing to you. I don't know what to say. Don't worry I won't stare at you they say it's impolite to stare at people with mental challenges and difficulty's...... Lmao. Keepemcoming
So, on normal bikes with multiple chainrings it's recommended to keep the chain as straight as possible, like not having the chain on the smallest cog at the rear, and the smallest chainring at the same time, and alternatively not having the chain on the largest rear cog and the largest chainring at the front. I've heard it said that it puts stress on the chain and could cause it to break. So, why is it OK to be on the same single chainring at the front when you have 10-12 cogs at the rear? Isn't the chain even less straight in these circumstances? Are single chainrings made differently? Or is it because of the front derailleur?
Converted from a perfectly shifting SLX/XT 2x10 to 1x12. What a big mistake. I now have an offset custom chainring on order, bought the smaller 10-45 cassette to replace the 12 speed 10-51 one. Hoping to solve all issues I had at start (wrong chainline, no backpedaling possible on the large cogs, bad performance in general) . So if you have a non boost 27.5 frame like me, stick to your working shifting system. BTW weight savings in my case: around 200 g... in my opinion, higher watts for a rubbing chain on the large cogs and also on the very small cog are way worse.
thanks, for myself, very informative and had the important information I needed to turn this giant bike frame into a custom build. My first top end bike build, gotta have a 1×11, w 10-51, what rims would you suggest, rear drop out is 134mm on the frame.
Well no unless you're built like a twig. If you need a larger front chainring to match speed then you're doing something wrong. I've seen 1x racers fly past 2x racers
I need to watch this again. There's so must to take in! I want to convert to a 1X system on my 2016 Trek Superfly. I currently have a SRAM GX, 10 spd with a Type 2 rear derailleur. The crank rings are SRAM GX 1000, 36/22 with a PF89.5 bottom bracket. What do I need to convert to a 1 X? According to this video I will have LESS gear usage if I just get a new front main Chain ring. So does that mean I need to replace my 10 gears with 12 gears, and a 12spd shifter, plus new chain..??
Another great video! Well done. I'm curious, did someone count amount of chain links used for system 10-51 and 32 in front ? Basically need to confirm if I correctly set length of my chain :) Bike is a hardtail, Trek Procaliber.
Two things that caught me out when installing my new Shimano RD-M5100-SGS 11sp derailleur were the shifter cable does not take what appears to be the obvious path to connect, and theres a little tab that is supposed to sit between the b screw and hanger.
Thank you, this is really helpful! I'm at the chain line measurement part and just have some question! But first to explain what I have and what I'm trying to do... I have a Shimano 3x10 and the chain line is 50 mm for the crankset, which is good because the rear hub width is 135 mm, so the math works. So, I wanna go 1x11 (11/51), and I can unscrew the 3 chain rings in the front and replace them. And I found a 32T narrow/wide ring that fits the 104 mm holes. So my first question is, when I remove the 3 current chain rings, how do I space the new ring so it's at the 50 mm chain line? I'm assuming it's not gonna be there when I remove 3 and replace it with 1 and assuming it's gonna be narrower? Are there some spacers to put in? Found a great deal for the whole rear upgrade kit set - cassette, derailleur, chain and shifter for 135 EUR! Shimano Deore M5100 for the whole thing. I also found the same Deore M5100 crankset, but it's a 52 mm chain line, I can't find a 50 mm one! :( Would that be a huge issue or should I try to fit the 1 ring on the current crankset? It's actually not that big a difference in price between buying just the chain ring and the whole crankset, but I'm worried that 52 mm would mess up the shifting and everything, going by the numbers of everything else! Your advice is much appreciated! There is a site that has awesome discounts, its called bike discount . de. Not sure how it would work with the UK/import taxes/etc, but I think it's worth a look! All the best, and thank you for all your awesome videos and tutorials, it's a massive help for a noob!
The process is easy of you are using one system like you did here with Shimano. However, if you want to change to something else...well, it can become much more difficult. You mentioned that you thought the square taper BB's were not the greatest quality. As someone who owns a shop and see TONS of bikes with square taper Bb's...well, I disagree. If someone takes care of this older bike, then generally there isn't any problems. And truthfully, the bearings last for years without having to be replaced, unlike exterior bearings. As for the 1x system, I can't truly say that it is better than a 3x system. If shops take the time to show folks how to shift correctly, then there isn't an issue. It's the shops that don't take the time to 'teach" folks how to shift both derailleurs that create issues.Lastly, although Shimano may have a weight savings going from a 3x to a 1x system, I truly don't believe there is a weight savings for most systems. But truthfully, maybe the extra gearing on the rear might be an added benefit for many.
Doddy I've seen many GMBN videos but this is the 1st one I find offensive. When going from a 3X or 2X down to a 1X & calling that an upgrade is simply an opinion & offensive for us who prefer more than a 1X in front.
Hi Doc, We didn't want to offend you by making this video. There is nothing wrong with running a 3x or a 2x drivetrain. We made this video for people looking to convert to a 1x setup and the benefits of doing so. Having a 1x setup is great for weight reduction and preventing more maintenance/mechanicals. If you like a huge gear range that the 3x or 2x offer, then by all means, stick to that. We hope this explains it. 👍
@@gmbntech Doddy I appreciate the response, I just didn't like it when you called it an upgrade. We all have our preferences. Love watching your videos 📹 👍
@@gmbntech hey, I don't like downhill bikes and get offended at all the videos you do extolling their virtues; please refrain in future so as to protect my fragile sanity..
It's not an upgrade if your limiting your gear range/ratio. It's not a lot of weight. It's not confusing, if you can type on a keyboard you can shift. And I wouldn't recommend less gears for a novice or young'n on a 29er who probably doesn't have the leg power
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Have you already made the switch to a single chainring setup? If yes, when did you last use a front derailleur?
I still got a Cross commuter bike with 3x9 system. Thinking of switching to cheap 1x10 1x11 with XT shifters as I don't switch from the middle chainring
I've gone the other way few months ago. From 1x9 to 2x10. Way better on long XC rides. Thanks to bigger chainring more speed on flat surfaces and still the same ability to climb with smaller shift gaps.
I did but now I miss 2x I can definitely tell the difference between 1x and 2xt. The 2x much better top end torque
@@jasonlewis6914 but why? I find 2x setup to be the worst of all. Switching eg. from 24 to 36T or 38T was quite disrupting and useless. I think the only reasonable front chainring choices are either 3x or 1x.
I actually went back to a triple - with 3x12.
In 10 years the next latest greatest craze will be to add two more chain rings to the crank.
And run 26 inch wheels!
With rim brakes😅
Notice how none of the boomer quips used against 1x or disc brakes ever come true?
@@SK-iu2yiwe all love going slower on heavier bikes
Doddy is the internet bike dad that every young MTB’er needs! 👍
100%. Doddy always has the best information ready to go!
Doddy... Because it's so close to Daddy! 🤔😯😂☮️
Experiment with your current set up by using only one front chainring for awhile in the areas you ride. I like the middle one on mine which is 38. I use that the most when I ride anyway. I like the sound of the simplicity of a 1x but I already have this by doing nothing and not spending any more money. Biking doesn’t have to be so costly. Thanks for the video.
Seeing all the new bikes with their fancy, simple, lightweight 1x setups had me dreaming of converting my 2016 Rockhopper Comp to a 1x setup. No more chain slap - so simple, elegant and lightweight! But then I started reading all the pro-2x comments, checking into the cost of the conversion, and looking over the rest of my bike (with it's worn out tires, entry level fork with a ding in the stanchion, and old-school geo)...I don't think I'm going to touch it unless something stops working right. Great video though!
I converted my 2X8 Shimano Alivio to Sram GX 1X12 on my Specialized Rockhopper Comp. It was totally straightforward following TH-cam videos, shifts like a dream I love it. I personally would not go back to a 2X setup. Also the bike is now about half a kilo lighter than before.
Have a brand-new 1x12 XT drivetrain on my new bike and the shifting just feels awful compared to my 8 year old 2x10 XT
i tried 1x12 and got back to my old 3x9. It doesn't cover the same range of gears, and i didn't have any problems with 3x9. The chain slip maybe 2 or 3 times during 8 years. I don't see any advantage of 1x except it's 400g lighter
sir. .thank you and shimano. i did this exact build on my early 2000 mtb. .. im loving riding it almost more than my modern suspension bike! cheers from usa!
I love my 1x12 on my Commencal Meta. So much so, that each time I get on my 3x9 hardtail every-day-rider, I dream of switching over.
BUT - watching Doddy explain and demonstrate the mechanics is way beyond anything I will ever do!!!
Thank you Doddy for this excellent presentation.
1x12 has to be the best setup! That sounds like a nice steed as well! Yeah, sometimes working on your bike can get a little complicated. Doddy covers all bases, so if you can do a full drivetrain swap, you have all the information you need. Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the support! 🙌
For most common QR bikes you can choose Shimano FH-MT401 (135mm) for 12 speed system.
Thanks , there still sold , I looked around for ready made wheels with this 12 speed qr hub and couldn't find any 👍
Still ride a 3x9. Big ring to the trails, middle ring in the trails, and small ring on the steep climbs. In between I use my right thumb to shift when things get hard and my right index finger to shift when things get easy. What could be less complicated?
I'm in the process of converting my 1x8 fatbike to 1x11, already upgraded from tapered square bb/cranks to hollow ones. Used smaller chainring, lost a lot of topend but I am quite happy with the lowend. Going to upgrade the rear end next month :)
hey i was wondering if you coul help me out I would like to do a simular thing but I have no idea where to start I just want to change the rear end from 7 sprocket to 10 or 11 but I don't know what I would need to do that will all cassettes fit or how do I know what to buy! thanks
Shimano sells the FH-MT401 and FH-MT500 which both have Microspline and are 135mm QR. The 401 has sealed cartridge bearings and an aluminum freehub body and the 500 has angular contact cup and cone bearings with an internal grease sleeve and a steel freehub body.
Thank you! I was reading through all these comments to see if anyone knew of one. And the 401 seems to be only $55
Am I wrong, or did you omit the cassette from your weight difference calculation? That's the one component that's always heavier with a 1X, because the sprockets get so much bigger to retain the same gear range.
Yeah, 12 speed cassette 650gram, 10 speed 380.
@@Sidowse Yea, the reason behind conversion from 3x(2x) to 1x is to make things simpler and more robust, not to save few grams.
I personally ride 2x10 on my XC and I use every gear ration I can.
fixing to upgrade to a 1x11 on an entry leven specialized. the first few videos i watched seem to have over simplified it. your video seems to be a lot more complete. thank you
I am doing the same to my Specialized I just orderd an 11 speed XT rear but kind of wondering if a 12 would have been a better buy. How did it go?
Good vid you guys dropped there. Ik did a 1x12 conversion recently. But i picked the sunrace 12 speed cassette. It fits the orginal Shimano body. And shifts at least good as the Shimanocasette from one off my Buddies. So no need to change the rear wheel/hub/body there. But i guess if you're teaming up with Shimano for this vid, that couldn't be shared😉
There is one from SRAM that fits the og Shimano as well. 12 speed NX Eagle PG-1230 is the parts no.
@@flexxx222 Yeah i'm running that with an XT derailleur and GX shifter. Love it
I’ve built a hardtail on shimano XT with 2x 12 ⚙️ I have also new canyon neuron cf9. Much better with 2x…
Oh nice! What reasons do you prefer the 2x setup?
is it chain line?
I preferred the 2x on my old bike for trails with steep abrupt climbs, where dropping 1/2 the gear ratio with one click was beneficial. However i find the 1x setup i run now to be far easier to keep in perfect working order.
@@gmbntech
2x is better for climbing, going from a 2X down to a 1X & calling it an "upgrade" is an opinion & not one I'm fond of. 2X & 3X Rule
Best explanation of how to change systems i have seen. Bravo
This video was tremendously helpful. Thank you for taking the time to out this info together
Finally, the perfect video I always searched and wanted to watch on TH-cam! I've watched a lot but I was waiting for about a year to see a dedicated video uploaded on GMBN!
I'm about to change my 2x9 Scott Aspect 950 to 1x11.(unfortunately I can only start by the crankset alone.)
hey, im doing this same upgrade soon, which crankset did you get? im only finding 52mm chainline deore cranks.
@@peerebeer4507 I bought Shimano Deore FC-M6130-1 Crankset 1x12-speed from bike24's site, it comes with chainline: 56.5 mm, check their website if you want.
The third groupset - 3*9 - on my 28 year old Voodod D-Jab has finally totally self-destructed after a few years of first aid and coaxing. Just ordered a full M5100 set. I'm sure I'm in for a world of hurt making it work properly. But I love my frame.
Good tinkering video.
I've done it from 2x on a CX bike and a gravel bike and from a 3x on an old 2007 GT MTB on bikes I own and regularly ride. Easy job for a home mechanic with the right tools....Getting a bit more expensive now with prices for parts getting silly...
As for the square taper BB remover, I still have an old Park Tools one residing in my toolbox....It was used many times and borrowed here and there....I'll keep it as you never know....
I currently ride a 3x7 drivetrain from the mid 90s lol. I ride it like a 9 speed. 1x1,2,3, then shift to 2x3,4,5, then 3x5,6,7. Smooth chainlines, wide range.
Yea, I got a bike with a 1x thinking I was 'stepping into the future'. Feels like I went backwards ! ! As soon as I wear out this 1x, Im switching to a 2x.
Yeah, I have a 3x8 (22/32/42, 11-34) and pretty much do similar. As much as I don't like a front derailleur, I can't go to a single chainring.
@@madmax2069why? If you're using it like a single ring with extra steps, whats the difference except that less can go wrong?
@@cooltwittertag I'm using it as a single until I need speed or climbing, I don't feel like having to stop, swap out the chain ring just to go up a hill, or to be able to go faster. With a single chain ring you either have climbing, midrange, or speed, but none of them together.
@@madmax2069 you could just have a big cassette
The older bikes I have with a square taper BB, I take it out and thoroughly grease the threads every year, even if the bike gets a few hundred miles dry use only. Modern design is definitely fit and forget until they need replacing altogether.
All my bikes are 1x (1x12 Shimano ful sus, 1x12 SRAM hardtail, 1x9 Shimano gravel'ish and 1x1 commuter) and It's the best invention in the bike industry! Front mechs were just an annoyance. With 1x drivetrain I can focus more on what's important - choosing the right line, giving my best effort, and enjoying the ride instead of constantly thinking if it's the right moment to shift front or rear and paying attention not to drop my chain.
I switched from a 5 speed gear hub to a 7 speed derailleur. I’m glad I’m only dealing with a single chainring. It’s easier to understand what’s going on since I can see all of the moving parts (though the hub may have made maintenance simpler but I haven’t figured out how to deal with anything yet). I was able to five videos showing most things and didn’t have a lot of trouble making sense of things. At this point I might be able to understand multiple chainrings but I still prefer what I’ve got (though trying to ride the 75lb bike over hills is a bit hard).
I am so impressed by the quality of content, production, the level of knowledge and how succinctly it is delivered. You have saved me so much time and frustration. Thank you.
20 years of experience well worth watching Thanks a mil, Very clear and structural and all us 1 x guys I'm sure appreciate it thank you
The best video explaining how to set up a 1x system.
Excacly all the infos I was looking for helping me to give my old Enduro a second life, tnx guys!
thanks Doddy, that chainline explanation is the simplest i've heard, i'll be checking mine now
I bought an inexpensive mountain bike from a large retailer. I paid less than $100. for it in early 2022. It has a a 26" wheel, alloy frame, front suspension, and was equipped with a 3 x 7 gearing. Living in flat Florida, I saw no need for the front derailleur, and when I found a problem with it I simply removed it. I did not find any problem with it as a "one-drive". The chain does not pop off the 3rd (largest gear) gear of the three. I removed the twist adjuster on the left side of the handlebar with no problem. No change was made to the pedal bracked gearing. Only some minor adjustment of the rear derailleur might have been required. I don't recall. The adjustment might have been simply to set the rear wheel's high gear (smalest gear) chain position to its innermost so that the chain would not slip off the right side. Seven gears are more than enough for Florida's mountains!
It is a shame that so-called "cruiser" bikes have no suspensions from the frame. Biking on the sidewalks is almost as rough as riding the rocks!
Great vid - I was looking at doing this to my aged 3x Hard Rock but I think I'll leave it as is so long as I can actually find a replacement for my badly worn and battered middle chainring .
Awesome video ! Honestly learned so much and I am now confident to make the move to a single drivetrain.
Great video, instructions from Doddy as usual! I always learn something new watching your videos, thanks :)
Thanks, Matt! We're glad you found this one useful! 👍
I love these videos.
Nice job, Doddy
Hey Tim! Thanks for the support! We hope you found this informative! 👍
Don’t you just love Shimano, the way they sort things out and make things compatible
is this genuine or sarcastic i cant tell
Gave you a thumbs up for saying fewer instead of less.
This video was incredible. Answered every question I had, PS I'm an old school pro bike mechanic.
Great video. I did my 1x conversion in Spring/Summer of 2020. Wouldn’t ever go back to anything else.
Thanks! 🙌 We're glad you're loving the 1x life! 😅
You just SAVED ME a expensive mistake, I am doing a conversion to single chainring as a birthday gift to my brother and I was about to purchase a 12 speed setup🙄 I wasn't counting on getting a new hub.
Glad to have helped out! You could still change to a 1x set up for the current speed that you're on?
Not yet, I'm waiting for the parts I've ordered. Hope that are the right ones. Now it's a matter of waiting and not screw up anything😅 🙏Thanks for the guide !! 🙏@@gmbntech
The Mustache from Park Tool has great advice about tightening the rear hub locknut, suggesting a little looseness is preferred. If you get it too tight, you may see binding after the axle is eventually clamped on.
i have a haro mountain bike pretty rare its 21 gears ive never gone over 10 so im gonna go this rout wicked nice one mate
Hi i have a Haro too from '09, pretty good condition, build for my nephew. Only the driveset is missing! I'm thinking 1x ...
Simply going 1x won't really save that much weight, Much larger cassette easily outweight the saving of a front derailleur.
Especially if any roadie is considering such 1x conversion. The clutch derailleur + 40t cassette + 38/40t chainring easily eats the saving of a Di2 front derailleur and 34t cassette + 50/34t chainring. Not to mention the worsen chainline with extra noise.
The real benefit mostly comes from the wide-narrow chainring, and easier maintenance.
It does save a lot of weight tbh, not just the weight of the derailleur but less material on the cranks since there's no 2nd mount, only one chainring and 1x cranks tend to be hollow so even lighter
@@The_Real_JN or you can make two sips of water from your bottle and the weights of bikes then equal. I dunno, weight saving on drivetrain is expensive. It is better to buy better tyres and wheels. I saw nice article about weigth_save/price ratios of different bicycle parts and tyres (at least in mtb) have the highest ratio of them.
@@kosskrit oh yeah don't get me wrong, changing tyres is the first thing I did, plus going tubeless saved more weight. I guess I've only really noticed it on the drivetrain
Great video! Now try to find a Deore front sprocket ring bigger than 32 tooth.
At last the upload which was really needed 🔥👍
Where I ride i prefer 2x all the way.
Where do you ride? Why do you prefer it? I've had all types but I like the 1x much more, my first bike was single back in the early 90's, so I never understood Shimano (my favourite company in the whole world).
@@FirefighterBobby doesnt matter where one rides. Fact of the matter is, a single chainring up front causes very harsh angles applied to the chain. A 2x keeps the chain much aligned in a better position more often. Also, you can use a standard chain which is A: cheaper and B: has more material and will last longer.
Actually the 1x# are actually more reliable and will last longer it’s tougher on the chunkier chain. The 1 by chain is made of stronger metal and designed to be stronger to make up for its skinniness.
@iwontreplybacklol7481 I've found that 2x's are far less reliable and break way easier/have more issues. So it's interesting that you have had the opposite experience.
Going from 2X to 1X is downgrade not upgrade……
I think you well over estimated the weight savings.
Or, upgrade a 1X to a 2X drivetrain. Most of the offroad available on my area are gravel roads, so i went from 1X to 2X so that i can ride faster with my 38-28 setup. No need to buy a gravel bike.
This is my problem.. i bought a new bike with a 1 x and I doht like it. The bike is slow and i never had a problem with 3 x ever but the shop talked me into it
currently use a 2x xc bike for commuting but switching it for a 1x hybrid, no hate on the 2x and I really enjoy the gear range but I prefer the simplicity over the gears.
When I converted to 1x, I had less gear ratios and it became harder to climb hills. At least my bike is simpler, right?
@@SurpriseMeJT fair if you actually need the lower ratios but i never ever use my 46T cog at the back so there's no need for me to have that many gears. I just need to climb short medium hills and need quicker gears for flats. Less drive train components just means less effort cleaning and less maintenance.
@@Metalshark100 so, one more chainring is 'much more maintenance'? Lol front derailleurs are so damn simple, I have a 20 year old mountain bike that Ive tuned up the front derailleur twice on...
@GMBN Tech - you seem to forget the "bastard" often used on entry level bikes, namingly the boost QR (141MM)
Is changing fron 2x11 to 1x11 an upgarde, pretty controversial. Just a mod in my book.
upgrade; it's just an opinion.. how 'bout just calling it a conversion to a different system.
I call it an upgrade for reliability, but a downgrade for gear ratios.
Love those 370 hubs. Reliable, cheap, and you can pop out the freehub (tool free) if you are switching wheels/tires. Love them (ps of course the 350 is better)
So thorough! Great vid
Very informative, well done video! ☮️
One thing to mention is that sram have there 12 speed nx drive train which can fit on a hyperglide freehub body
And with sram you don't necessarily need different cranks for different chain lines. you can change your chainring, that's way cheaper
but there's no 10t
This was a Shimano sponsored video :)
Saved , great explanation doddy 👍
If you round it it is actually 536%😃,Doddy
This is an excellent video but as a layman, it seems overwhelming to know where to start. I want to convert my Calibre Rake to 1x.
Looks like I need to do a lot more research yet!
Reading comments was an experience : there's a lot of angry reactions. It's a tech channel teaching you to do a lot of various tech things, sponsor or not, be happy for that. As for the reacts themselves, I'm guessing a lot are coming from old-timers with old gear, or cheap MTBs owners trying to convince themselves really hard they're top of the line and made for the sportiest of people. I have a cheap bike myself, with a 3x8 drivetrain ( always had 3x as a kid in the 90s), I'm used to it, it does the job, it truly has some qualities (very progressive range on the rear, quick skip on the front, relative protection against the chain coming off from the front) but still... You gotta have a seriously fragile ego to defend it against the face of hell. I'm looking into more qualitative bike offerings and I'll be just as glad to ditch the front mech. Thanks for the quality information on those systems Doddy !
I grew up with single chainring bikes and I never really got used to the multiple-chainring setup in the front. Probably it was down to their lower-tier quality, but it has always been a nuisance for me to make a precise change of gears on the front chaingring - may it be a mountain bike or a road bike. Also, in general, I'm the kind of person who admires simplicity in all things, so this trend of going to a singe-setup is appealing to me a lot.
Same here, my first bike was single front and I could never understand what's with all the gears, they even made people think/speak the more the better. Just looks clean and my bikes were always nice. Plus the mech always goes off. Now people got it finaly.
great video thanks doddy
No problem, Alen! We're glad you found this one useful! 🙌
I regret going to 1X and after 1 year of riding 1X is SUCKS! I went back to 2X and for me I learned the value of 2X.Will never go back to !X.
I have a 2008 Specialized Rockhopper that I beat pretty badly the last few seasons. So much I snapped the chain and noticed I have some tweaked sprockets in the stock SRAM 3x8 drivetrain. I had wanted to convert to a 1x, but now the busted chain has given me more reason to do so. When did Micro Spline hit the market? I'm pretty sure I have the older style hub, they are Specialized labeled hubs. I'd love a 1x12, but I'd take a 1x11. Love these videos explaining all the intricate parts of disassembly, reassembly, maintenance and all the rest....great job! I do have a question about rider weight. I am 285 lbs and I know extra weight may add extra wear on the components. Is their a better drivetrain for said fluffy rider to change gears on climbs without snapping parts?
Great video. I went 1x after crashing my cube stereo, breaking myself not the bike. Smashed my left thumb. Moved the dropper post lever to the right. The bike was a 2x11 with shimano XT clutch mech. Have now fitted an Absolute Black Oval concave chain ring. Never looked back. Slick gear changes, very little chain slap, climbs like a goat.
Did you still use the XT 42t cassette on the rear?
@@mikemolenaar8380 yep still using the the original cassette 42 tooth on the rear.
What size ring?
Yes still using original cassette on the rear.
@@paulb9769 the oval ring is 34 at the highest point.
When I changed my hub and he warns about the shallow grip. Yeah my had been on so long I had to use a dead blow hammer to knock it lose lol. The first owner never serviced the hub. Had to use a dremel and cutting disk lol
Easy instal and works well
Here in Australia ive had trouble even getting a 1 x groupset. ....
Has anyone found the 2x system too confusing? Trotting out the 'less confusing', as one of the main reasons to move to a 1x system makes me thing there are no real benefits and this is just the market trying to convince us to buy a new groupset with half the components for the same cost as 2x...but with a worse chain-line at the lowest and highest gears. I have a 2x11 on my trail bike, I don't have an issue with the chain coming off, and I've never been confused by it. The ability to move from a big gear to a small gear in one move by changing between the big and small ring at the front is great on changing terrain.....can't do that on a 1x.
2 x is a great compromise between the old 3x and the current 1x, which is really only desirable on full sus bikes; hardtails work well with front derailleurs, so why mess with something that works? those massive cassettes are heavy and expensive, so maintaining a 2x driveline is easier on your wallet and legs.
Same, 2x works great for me too !
My 2x is on a full sus, it works great on it. I don't drop chains, I have a wide range of gears. The only desire I have for a 1x is because dropper post levers aren't compatable with a 2x setup anymore so you pretty much have to either buy old stock or stick with what you've got.
I honestly ride my 2x exactly like a 1x on the trail. The front chainring doesn’t leave the small ring and I just shift the rear. The larger front chainring is only ever useful for me on pavement.
For less experienced riders cross chaining can be an issue or the hilarious irony of a 3x system is just staying in the middle so they don't get that annoying rub on the front derailleur
Plus it's a whole lot easier cleaning than trying to get at every nook and cranny in the front derailleur in bad weather.
Thanks Claire 👍
1x is ok if you going only downhill but for a normal use 2x is faster than 1x, I have xc hardtail 2x10 and for me 38T is much better than 32T
48T for me. I was thinking of 1x but the top/bottom end sacrifice is not worth it for me.
Good man, putting a proper tube in the tire.. and not wasting your time with tubeless.
You can even pop a 12 speed casette on a 9sp hg hub. But for that you have to go aftermarket.
Needed this
Hopefully it helps BoBo! 👍
Glad square taper is becoming obsolete, I have nightmares thinking of cranks falling off while riding
I Love My 1x because am so scare cross accident fatal for the chain, and the rear derailleur
I prefer my 2x setup
Nice video 👌
Shimano cs-r8100 cassette with 12 speed conversion without needing microspline hub and existing non 12 speed rear wheels just in case missed 🙏
If you have room for multiple chainrings, there is no reason to downgrade to 1x.
There so much misinformation in this video, starting with the supposed weightsaving, I am too lazy to point it all out...
It literally is weight saving though, less hassle having to index gears, a 1x system is easier to clean, quieter and works better than a 2x. A 1x is typically used when you have a larger cassette and it allows more range than a 2x. By the sound of it you're just lazy, hence why you need that 3x or 2x setup to help you get up those small hills
@@The_Real_JN Quieter? Works better? Larger is better? - this is a cassette...
1x is typically used with narrow-wide chainrings, which are horribly grinding, because of the glove-like fit between chain and teeth, where every bit of dirt is too much.
The chainline can be straighter with more chainrings, resulting in a smooth, silent drive train. Larger chainrings result in lower chain tension, which makes for a much longer lasting transmission and less flex.
Larger cassetes are heavier and they are placed in the rear wheel, opposed to the centre of the bike, where chainrings would be.
Multiple chainrings allow for a wider overall range, not only 556% max.
A second chainring is handy, if you crash your largest one into a rock...
Your turn ;)
@@coolcycles less tension on the chain means more risk of chain slap, aka more noise and damage to your bike without a chain stay protector. Also a slacker chain typically results in a lower quality of shifting since the chain isn't tight, though it isn't so tight to cause any more abrasion to than a 2 or 3x setup, since the chain is grinding against the cassette and front chainring when changing gear. Chain doesn't rattle in the front derailleur so is quieter, and if you hear so much grinding from the front chainring on a 1x then it needs a good clean, not a problem with regular routine maintenance. Lighter, no front derailleur and shifter, no extra cables, larger chainring on the front on a 2 or 3x is more susceptible to damage.
Great, comprehensive and too the point! Thanks for the tips. Could you please add links to the recommended products, do you have a storefront? (Edit: storefront)
Love you explainations. I have a giant 2013 xtc I want to change to 1x. Do I need to change the BB if put a complet new groupset 1× on?
Keep up the great vids
Ok so you publishe3d this video a year ago and Trek Marlins 5-6-7-8 go 2x8 1x10 in the middle and 1x12 but I'm looking at the specs on the Marlin Hub and it list the hub as 135 mm using the SRAM Eagle SX groupset.
Some of us prefer two by up front. I know some of you think it's way to complicated and confusing to you. I don't know what to say. Don't worry I won't stare at you they say it's impolite to stare at people with mental challenges and difficulty's...... Lmao.
Keepemcoming
Difficulties* lmao, I think someone else has mental challenges
So, on normal bikes with multiple chainrings it's recommended to keep the chain as straight as possible, like not having the chain on the smallest cog at the rear, and the smallest chainring at the same time, and alternatively not having the chain on the largest rear cog and the largest chainring at the front.
I've heard it said that it puts stress on the chain and could cause it to break.
So, why is it OK to be on the same single chainring at the front when you have 10-12 cogs at the rear? Isn't the chain even less straight in these circumstances?
Are single chainrings made differently?
Or is it because of the front derailleur?
Really nice! But really expensive method :))
Converted from a perfectly shifting SLX/XT 2x10 to 1x12. What a big mistake. I now have an offset custom chainring on order, bought the smaller 10-45 cassette to replace the 12 speed 10-51 one. Hoping to solve all issues I had at start (wrong chainline, no backpedaling possible on the large cogs, bad performance in general) . So if you have a non boost 27.5 frame like me, stick to your working shifting system. BTW weight savings in my case: around 200 g... in my opinion, higher watts for a rubbing chain on the large cogs and also on the very small cog are way worse.
Hey mate, if that 12 speed 51t cassette is lying around doing nothing and presumably as new, do you want to sell it?
thanks, for myself, very informative and had the important information I needed to turn this giant bike frame into a custom build. My first top end bike build, gotta have a 1×11, w 10-51, what rims would you suggest, rear drop out is 134mm on the frame.
Not only do you lose weight but you lose the race too.
Lmao
Well no unless you're built like a twig. If you need a larger front chainring to match speed then you're doing something wrong. I've seen 1x racers fly past 2x racers
@@The_Real_JN 🤣🤣🤣
I need to watch this again. There's so must to take in! I want to convert to a 1X system on my 2016 Trek Superfly. I currently have a SRAM GX, 10 spd with a Type 2 rear derailleur. The crank rings are SRAM GX 1000, 36/22 with a PF89.5 bottom bracket. What do I need to convert to a 1 X? According to this video I will have LESS gear usage if I just get a new front main Chain ring. So does that mean I need to replace my 10 gears with 12 gears, and a 12spd shifter, plus new chain..??
Another great video! Well done. I'm curious, did someone count amount of chain links used for system 10-51 and 32 in front ? Basically need to confirm if I correctly set length of my chain :) Bike is a hardtail, Trek Procaliber.
2 X 9 best deal
Two things that caught me out when installing my new Shimano RD-M5100-SGS 11sp derailleur were the shifter cable does not take what appears to be the obvious path to connect, and theres a little tab that is supposed to sit between the b screw and hanger.
Thank you, this is really helpful!
I'm at the chain line measurement part and just have some question!
But first to explain what I have and what I'm trying to do...
I have a Shimano 3x10 and the chain line is 50 mm for the crankset, which is good because the rear hub width is 135 mm, so the math works.
So, I wanna go 1x11 (11/51), and I can unscrew the 3 chain rings in the front and replace them. And I found a 32T narrow/wide ring that fits the 104 mm holes.
So my first question is, when I remove the 3 current chain rings, how do I space the new ring so it's at the 50 mm chain line? I'm assuming it's not gonna be there when I remove 3 and replace it with 1 and assuming it's gonna be narrower? Are there some spacers to put in?
Found a great deal for the whole rear upgrade kit set - cassette, derailleur, chain and shifter for 135 EUR! Shimano Deore M5100 for the whole thing. I also found the same Deore M5100 crankset, but it's a 52 mm chain line, I can't find a 50 mm one! :( Would that be a huge issue or should I try to fit the 1 ring on the current crankset? It's actually not that big a difference in price between buying just the chain ring and the whole crankset, but I'm worried that 52 mm would mess up the shifting and everything, going by the numbers of everything else!
Your advice is much appreciated!
There is a site that has awesome discounts, its called bike discount . de. Not sure how it would work with the UK/import taxes/etc, but I think it's worth a look!
All the best, and thank you for all your awesome videos and tutorials, it's a massive help for a noob!
The process is easy of you are using one system like you did here with Shimano. However, if you want to change to something else...well, it can become much more difficult. You mentioned that you thought the square taper BB's were not the greatest quality. As someone who owns a shop and see TONS of bikes with square taper Bb's...well, I disagree. If someone takes care of this older bike, then generally there isn't any problems. And truthfully, the bearings last for years without having to be replaced, unlike exterior bearings. As for the 1x system, I can't truly say that it is better than a 3x system. If shops take the time to show folks how to shift correctly, then there isn't an issue. It's the shops that don't take the time to 'teach" folks how to shift both derailleurs that create issues.Lastly, although Shimano may have a weight savings going from a 3x to a 1x system, I truly don't believe there is a weight savings for most systems. But truthfully, maybe the extra gearing on the rear might be an added benefit for many.
Doddy I've seen many GMBN videos but this is the 1st one I find offensive. When going from a 3X or 2X down to a 1X & calling that an upgrade is simply an opinion & offensive for us who prefer more than a 1X in front.
you're offended by Doddy demeaning old style crank sets? seek therapy..
Hi Doc, We didn't want to offend you by making this video. There is nothing wrong with running a 3x or a 2x drivetrain. We made this video for people looking to convert to a 1x setup and the benefits of doing so. Having a 1x setup is great for weight reduction and preventing more maintenance/mechanicals. If you like a huge gear range that the 3x or 2x offer, then by all means, stick to that. We hope this explains it. 👍
@@gmbntech
Doddy I appreciate the response, I just didn't like it when you called it an upgrade. We all have our preferences. Love watching your videos 📹 👍
@@gmbntech hey, I don't like downhill bikes and get offended at all the videos you do extolling their virtues; please refrain in future so as to protect my fragile sanity..
Why he didnt mention about the spacers on the bottom bracket?
It's not an upgrade if your limiting your gear range/ratio. It's not a lot of weight. It's not confusing, if you can type on a keyboard you can shift. And I wouldn't recommend less gears for a novice or young'n on a 29er who probably doesn't have the leg power
Or you could use sram nx 12 cassette and use sram which is what I’m planning on doing
They're made of butter, highly recommend going with shimano instead
@@The_Real_JN ok thanks for letting me know. I was thinking gx shifter and mech etc. but no cassette and crankset?
SRAM GX Rear Mech with NX Cassette, Chain and shifter is a much better setup in my book than lower to mid level Shimano.
Can you switch from a 1X to a 3X Without changing the rear gearing? Effectively boosting the overall gear range?
Great video. Where did you buy the wheel? I’ve been having a hard time finding it with 135mm width