Yes indeed! I assembled a Kalax buffet, a tall Billy with glass door, and 2 Besta wall units with Lappviken doors. Now comes the time to install them securely and this channel is a Godsend.
An excellent video indeed. My kitchen project is in two parts - I have already completed the hob/oven and high cabinetry attached to the wall (and I used Rannes’ videos for that). I am now preparing to install a 6 cabinet Metod peninsula (3.6 metres long attached to the wall at one end) with a return 2.4 metres. I have done what many others have done and that is to research widely and replayed this video many times before I started. Rannes provides those 1% items that make a difference to the final outcome and that’s so important. One point that I would like to add is when installing the cover panels, I nip the points off the screws, using side cutters - it’s only a millimetre or so. It does not affect the screw penetrating the MDF, but does ensure that the screw does not hit the outside laminate on the panel. Great job Rannes.
Thanks. I'm glad that you find the videos helpful. If you use the screws that comes with the cabinets, you'll be good as long as you don't go much further than flush. Nipping off a bit can be a good idea for sure. Going too far isn't fun.😩
I'm going to save you a LOT of time...use Rannes' instructional videos. I spend copious amounts of time finding the best TH-camr videos to help in my home projects. Invest the time to view and understand what Rannes is saying...follow exactly the things he says and you'll have a successful Ikea kitchen cabinet install. All of this is assuming you have at least a minimal understanding of the tools you'll need to use. His contributions are among the best instructional videos on this topic and he's helped me have a successful kitchen installation...many thanks "Kitchens by Rannes".
absolutely great video on how to assemble an ikea island ! ... thank you so much for taking the time to record, explain each step & share with everyone... & thank-you especially for all those tips based on your obvious abundance of experience. rgds mike toronto canada
Looks like you're the DIY pro now! Ready to take on the next IKEA challenge? If you feel like sharing your work, check this: kitchensbyrannes.com/share/
Appreciate the video and learn every time. I think I would have to attach one bracket on each side of the island supports though, as it would bug me if I didn't. If you mark and then move the cabinets after placing them as you did in this video, your arms wouldn't need any special joints. Would it make a difference in the end, probably not, but it is the right way to do it. Just my OCD.
Thanks for your input. Did you see that Ikea have discontinues the bracket shown in the video? The new one looks like this: www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-floor-anchoring-frame-f-ktchn-islnd-10557036/
Hi, I was told there’s concrete beneath my flooring and wanted to know if I can screw the supports with the provided screws or if I’d need something extra? Thanks in advance!
It depends on the thickness of your floor. If it's ½" or ¾" hardwood you can use short screws for the brackets but if you have a thin floor, youl need some screws for concrete. You can get those at your local hardware store.
Thank you for this. I didny know about the assembly kit for the island , only the for the floor..very useful.sure wish you were in California! Thank you again for an excellent video.
I don't offer to do that so me recommendations is based on what I've seen done by the countertop companies. They simply put the counters on top of the cabinets and then apply a bead of silicone from the underside of the counter.
10:12 what drill bit and screws do you use when working with porcelain tile? I’m very nervous about chipping or cracking the new tile I just had installed.
I use these. Very good. Will not crack the tiles. Start drilling by tilting the drill 45 degrees. amzn.to/48RHHnz (Affiliate link). For screws I use anything that fits through the hole and has sufficient length.
EXCELLENT VIDEO. Exactly what I needed to gain confidence for my island install. One question: When attaching the cabinets to the wood brackets, the screws will pull the wood bracket up to the cabinet? And then the additional screws in the bracket will hold it in place? Should the two screws holding the metal bracket, installed first, also be tightened at this step?
Thanks Tim. Yes, you're on to something. Sorry for not being clear about the order of tightening the screws. The two thick screws shouldn't be tightened to begin with. Just enough to hold the brackets in place. Then you secure the cabinets to the brackets, and finally tighten the thick ones completely and add a few of the shorter screws to secure the brackets into the 2x4" further.
Thank you for your question. Since I've never installed a "counter deep" counter top on an island as you describe it, I've never faced the problem. 99% of my clients get quartz counters or use the 42" deep countertop from Ikea for their island.
Great video. Simple and easy. Quick question, I did not find the lower brackets like you put in this video for the island. Do I have to buy them seperately? What is the part number? Mine came with only the top two brackets.
Thanks. Ikea recently discontinued the island support brackets shown in the video. The new one: www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-floor-anchoring-frame-f-ktchn-islnd-10557036/ I haven't made a video on the new one yet, so you'll have to consult the instructions from Ikea
I so appreciate your videos! They’ve helped me so much. How would I attach the base cabinets if I want one of them to open to the side instead of both opening to the front. I need to attach the back of one cabinet to the side of the other. How?
Thanks. Do you mean if you have a peninsula with the cabinet facing the opposite way? Panels and fillers are the key. Looking for pictures......stand by
Hi I have a question please... Am I understanding right that the way to level the island is by adjusting the legs? and that is all? No shims needed, correct? Thank you for this video
Yes, all Ikea base cabinets are standing on the black plastic legs, which are fully capable of holding up even heavy cabinets with a heavy countertop. Said legs can be adjusted individually. th-cam.com/video/yPe87tVqqqg/w-d-xo.html
Hi there, thank you so much for posting your detailed videos. They are a tremendous help. I just had one question though. If you were to put granite on your island, would those Ikea 2x4's with brackets and legs be enough to support it? Thanks Gil
Thank you for your comment. I'm happy to hear that you find the videos helpful. Short answer: yes, no problem. The legs alone can carry the load. Use a box of legs (4 pcs) per cabinet. The purpose of the support brackets is to prevent the cabinets sliding sideways.
I came across your TH-cam channel and really enjoyed your detailed videos, great work! An idea for a new video would be an island install on a floating floor with the dishwasher at the end and how you deal with the floating floor and attaching the end panel. I have not come across a video dealing with this situation. Looking forward to your next video. Cheers, Mike
Thanks, Mike, for the video suggestion. Since it'll be a good while before I get to do the desired video, I'll give you a few hints Whether the floor is floating or not, doesn't change much in regards to the "how." Only to the "when." If your floor is floating, build and secure the island. If you want all the panels to run to the floor, which you do since you have a dishwasher, those goes in after the floor. I hope your island is one row only because having a dishwasher at the end in a double row island isn't desirable. If it's one row, cut a 26x36" panel in height and create a 24" open space between the cabinet next to where the dishwasher will go and the endp panel, by using an island kit where you cut the MDF strips to 24". Mount the strips into the adjacent cabinet and the end panel. That leaves a 24" opening for the dishwasher. The big 36x96" panel must be cut to fit the back, also covering the dw opening. Got it?
@@kitchensbyrannes Given you shouldn’t screw through a floating floor I have put a 2x4 base frame in place that the cabinets of the island will sit on, this then takes the weight of the island so it’s not sitting on the floating floor and also ensures the flooring will not be able to expand beyond the 1/4” space up to the base frame. My questions/issues then are how to support the counter top at the end of the dishwasher and secure it to the floor. Is using an ikea panel sufficient support for the counter top or should there be additional “structure” along with the ikea panel (say a piece of 1/2” plywood) as well as something along the top between the last cabinet and the end “panel” (say a 24” cabinet rail). Then the question of how to secure the end “panel” to the floor, you don’t want to screw it through the flooring given it needs to be able to float. I’ve thought able adding a piece of 1/2” plywood at the end, cutting out the flooring around the plywood and securing the plywood to the subfloor and then attaching the ikea panel to the plywood which would then cover the 1/4” gap between the flooring and the plywood. In this scenario I would have to find a way to cover up the front edge of the plywood next to the ikea panel. Hopefully this is clearly described. Thoughts?
@@michaelmcallister8501 Hi Michael. It all sounds complicated. 🙂I am unsure if I understand the whole frame situation correctly, but since you have done that already, there is no need to dwell on that part. The end panel. In that situation, I connect the 26x36" (cut to height) to the back panel (36x96" cut to length and height) by use of the Ikea Island Kit. I let the panel stand on top of the floor (floating or not), but I don't secure it to the floor (even though it could be possible with very short screws). Modern dishwashers are secured into the adjacent cabinet/panel, so that is enough. The panel will be attached to the countertop with silicone or whatever the countertop folks are using. The importance of a free-floating floor can be more relaxed nowadays than earlier, where mdf was the most used material. Modern materials do not expand as much, and I don't think the "Luxury Vinyl Stuff" expands at all. It is plastic. I do not add any extra support at the top, as this will prevent the dishwasher from being installed correctly, i.e. all the way up under the dishwasher.
Thank you. I'm happy to hear that you find the videos helpful. The MDF strip is called an Island Assembly Kit and is purchased separately. I use one per cabinet in the island and one for dishwasher if that's in the island too. www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-assembly-kit-for-kitchen-island-00298411/
Excellent Job, this is super helpful!! thank you very much Rannes! one question tho, do you know if there is a way to fix the island without drilling in the floor?
You're very welcome. If you don't want to screw the island into the floor, the only way to obtain stability is to replace the legs with a frame, as I show in this video th-cam.com/video/dxIwY_8kFNs/w-d-xo.html
Thanks! One question: You're saying the minimum distance between cabinet and floor should be 11.5 cm, where does that number come from? According to the IKEA manuals, the feet should be exactly 8 cm high (same as the height of the plinth)?
Hi Frantz. Thank you for your question. ah, since I made the video, I realized that the legs are shorter in Europe. Did I say 11.5 cm or 4½ inches? The legs for Ikea cabinets are, as you wrote, 8 cm in Europe but 4½ inches in US/Canada. I better check the video and correct/make a note in the description. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
Wow, thanks for the lightning fast reply! At 11:54 you're saying "4½ inches" and it says "11.5 cm" on screen, superimposed. I didn't even think about the possibility of there being different heights between regions, that makes total sense. Thanks for clearing things up, now I can get to work without too many open questions. Love your videos!
@@franzthus2669 Yeah, fast is my middle name 🙂 I am on vacation, but I was checking up on stuff when you commented. It wasn;t until I made the latest rail video I realized that the legs on Ikea cabinets are shorter in Europ, so I better add a comment to the Island video.
I am in Australia, and it is also 80mm kicker plate. The floor is not installed yet, so I have added 10 mm allowance for the hybrid floor (6mm + 4mm variation)@@kitchensbyrannes
are screws used for attaching the side panels to the island provided by IKEA? they are shorter than the ones used for attaching the back panel? because the back panel has the metal bracket with the lip as an added thickness to pass through.
Thank you for your question. You can use the pan-headed screws, which comes with most of the panels, when attaching the side panels too. I use those at the back of the side. At the front I prefer to hide the screws behind a hine or shelf (especially for wall cabinets) so here I use the assembly screws which are included with the cabinet box. In general, I only use screws provided with the Ikea parts, except for the screws for hanging the suspension rails.
Your videos are so so helpful!!! Thank you so much!! I have a very urgent question! I can't find those brackets that attach the cabinets to the back panel and I don't know how to order them. Do you know the item number for them??
Ah....your are in Europe or Australia? I'm not sure why Ikea is punishing those markets with such a slim selection of panels. I would go with the 62 cm wide one and cut it in height (and width) and use as many as you have cabinets.
Do I see correctly that you do not have cabinets sharing legs? It seems indeed more sturdy and flexible to not share the leg, but Ikea guide states it should be shared?
You see correctly, Mr. I don't share dessert and I don't share legs. It's a lot easier during installation to use one box of legs per cabinet (two for corners) than sharing one leg between two.
One more question: how do you support the island countertop overhangs when they are too lengthy (e.g., 15 inches)? Do you perhaps use corbels or aluminum square profiles?
That's a question for the counter top company. 99% of my clients choose Quartz counters so I'm steering clear of that. From my experience, 15" will require support. Also, if you need overhang for sitting area, 10-12" of overhang should be sufficient. Make a test with cardboard or whatever you have, bring over a chair and test for yourself.
Thank you for your quick response, @kitchensbyrannes. I did some research and found that a 15" overhang is recommended for a 35" height countertop. I've already ordered and received this countertop at home. While 12" might be sufficient, the additional surface is practical for me, so I don't want to shorten it. I will probably use aluminum or steel profiles, or maybe corbels. We'll see what I get today :)
Ah...okay 👍 Is it wood? I've used these once. Quite a pain to put in as you'll need support in the cabinet for the support 🤔 but it looks great as you won't have legs to bump into. www.homedepot.ca/product/richelieu-16-inch-406-mm-k-300-kolossus-countertop-bracket-black-38-inch-thickness/1001540810?eid=PS_GOOGLE_D29K_Corporate_GGL_Shopping_PLA_Kitchen_Kitchen__PRODUCT_GROUP_pla-343007891671&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7OqrBhD9ARIsAK3UXh0TrOgKcIxHww6JmXoYuE4btbP6NJHcpjvKG9Sp9RRms9VDokm8A4oaArJkEALw_wcB
@@kitchensbyrannes its laminate 1,5" countertop. Yes exactly, something like this. It will be a little complicated to mount indeed, but for the long run I think its better than some support legs😊
fantastic video again! Thanks for the heads up for the new floor anchoring and connector rail kit. Have you used the new kit and do you find it more intuitive? I'm installing my island right next to a wall - would you recommend leaving a small gap to the wall or attach it as closely as possible?
Thanks, again 🙏 I've used the new island kit once, for a double-row island. Didn't like it that much but maybe I will after a few more. If you leave a gap to the wall, it's an island, if you don't, it's a peninsula 🤣 No preference regarding installation.
Hi, I've been watching all of your videos as I'm getting ready to install my kitchen pretty soon. There was a video were you mentioned the type of screws you use to install the rail, but I don't remember which one it was. Would you consider making a video about the tools you use to install IKEA kitchens? Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in your channel.
Thank you for watching all my videos. 🙏 The screws....yes. I use this one. a.co/d/3SD1TIl #ad I'm planning on doing a tool video soon, but I'm afraid it won't be finished before you're done with your kitchen. Maybe for your next one? 🤔
Rannes, where do you get the brackets for attaching the large cover panel on the back of the island? Is that IKEA hardware? I don’t seem to have that bracket that has the ridge to prevent the screw from going through the panel in any of the hardware boxes that came with the kitchen island.
The special island brackets shown in the video have been discontinued since the video was posted. The current island hardware is different. www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-connector-rail-f-cabinet-cover-pnl-00557032/ And the anchoring kit: www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-floor-anchoring-frame-f-ktchn-islnd-10557036/
Help! I’m stuck! I’m not sure which screws to use for the side and back panels. I see you holding up some that I think you called “pan head” but I don’t have any of those. In the crappy ikea instructions there’s even a photo of that screw with an “X” over it to say not to use it but it doesn’t seem like any of my cabinets even included them. All of my screws are 1” long and I’m nervous that they’re too short and that I need 1 1/4” screws.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you, it seems reasonable as then its additionally tying cabinets together. I got separated pieces in Ikea for each of the cabinets but I will return them and get 1 single piece.
Ah....Ikea. The joy of experts. Unfortunately, the staff in the kitchen department have never installed a kitchen, so they know very little about the "how to". Tomorrow I'm starting on a kitchen where Ikea tiled my client that he doesn't need to get suspension rails for the base cabinets. 😱 Sure, it's possible to do without but it'll take a week to install and level 👍
I'm working on a video showing how to do just that but it'll be another month or so before it's done. If you shoot me an email I'll share some pictures.
Thanks, so how many island brackets do I need for 3 24x24x30? I will guess 5 , right? No legs are needed too, right? Also, if I want to have an integrated existing dish washer, can I use 2 panels replacing one base cabinet?
@@kitchensbyrannes The sides panels do not get flushed to the back panel as shown on the video? So there is no need to cut it to size with the back panel, right? Is there a specific reason? Thanks!
I'm good with the 8ft length panel to cover 4x 24x30 base cabinet. It's short of 1/8 of an inch though. Cutting the 8ft length, I had to use an 8ft saw guide which makes the job easier but carrying it on the roof of the car is something else. I'm getting this done soon.
I'm not sure if this is a non issue, but I'm about to put on the sides and back panel just like the video and I'm going to have a 12 inch overhang for seating, I'm worried that the side panels that are sticking out in the "back" will be caught by people's feet when they get up. Or am I just overthinking it like usual? 😅
Excellent video, IKEA gave me 2 separate panels for back of island which would leave a joint in middle…… no good, I’m getting a 36”x96” like you did. As for side panels, they extend past the back? Are the front of side panels flush with doors?
Thanks. I am glad you like it. Yes, I let the end panels (26x36" cut at the top) extend at the back, whatever is left from letting them protrude the cabinet by 5/8" at the front. I do not make them flush with the doors because something the doors have to be adjusted outwards on one of the hinges, and then "flush" doesn't exist.
@@kitchensbyrannes I tried leaving 5/8” protruding at front on upper cabinets but doors are 3/4” so doors are proud of panel. Wish panels for uppers were 1/4” bigger. Oh well.
Doors being proud of panels is what you want actually. Here is why. If your doors are flush with the panel and you have to adjust one of corners where the door is hinged, outwards, it will not be flush anymore. If the panel sits a bit back from the door, you won't notice the difference between top and bottom. Makes sense?
Questiom, why did you leave approximately 1 inch at the back of the 2 side panels, what is the purpose of those panels not to be cut where the edge of the back panel is?
i'm confused, can I ask you, what kind of panel do you use for the back finish panels ? on Ikea it's written that the panels are only for the sides... can you use them for both ? thank you
@heatherwardrop6101. I would use a 36x96" and a 26x36" and I will have two uncut edges meet where two cabinet meets. This means that if you don't have a 24" and one end, you'll need two 36x96" panels.
If the cabinet in question, is sitting next to at least one other cabinet, I wouldn't be afraid to take of the X-bracing, at it will be kept in place by the adjacent cabinet(s). You can also "countersink" the X-bracing by taking it off, remove some of the cabinet where it rests, and put it back on..
When you say you use the big panels... 3 * 8 feet etc I have a LERHYTTAN Black method style kitchen and I can not see these size panels on the ikea online store ?... Does anyone know why this is ?
@@kitchensbyrannes Yes in Europe ... Greetings from Ireland, Yes its very weird... been scratching my head as to how I am supposed to get it to look nice but I guess I have to chop the big panels and have multiple panels instead of one big one, its the only option for me unfortunately... Thanks for the reply and your videos they are very helpful although you make it look too easy :)
These are purchased separately. However, the ones in the video have been discontinued. New one: www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-connector-rail-f-cabinet-cover-pnl-00557032/
Thank you for your input. In my world, longevity in a trade counts for nothing if the person has been delivering below average quality for years. Not saying that you have though, but if a quarter round is your go-to magic trick, sorry 😞 ☺️🙏 I only cut at the floor in extreme circumstances. My clients will rather look at a small gap than a panel which eventually will let moisture in, despite "professional caulking skills" at work.
@@kitchensbyrannes I have never used quarter round-ever. I scribe the panel to the floor. We here in the UK work on old and in some cases, extremely old properties where a floor can run out 50 mm over a one metre span(and more). How,with your system could you ever tackle that and be successful? You couldn’t. A man fitting exclusively IKEA kitchens calling out someone whose main work has been bespoke kitchens,studies and bedrooms is pretty rich. In one of your comments to someone else that questioned your methods, you told him that you were on 225 kitchens - so your argument of longevity holds no water does it?
Well, if I offended you, I apologize. I meant to say that doing something for many years isn't necessarily a testament to "doing it right". I see contractors with decades of experience in the trade, delivering piss poor performance. I cannot say whether you're good or not, but I'll take your word for it. However, stating that your "position" is a "fact" turns on my lights 😉 The world isn't black or white. I'm in Canada, and the quarter round is indeed a problem solver for many contractors here. And I see them caulk like their livelihood depends on it ...well, I guess it does, because lots of trim work is truly appalling and will only be kinda okay when all the gaps are filled with caulk and painted. And yes, you're right about cutting at the floor is necessary when the floor is sagging as you describe. Enjoy your day ☺️
10:12 what drill bit and screws do you use when working with porcelain tile? I’m very nervous about chipping or cracking the new tile I just had installed.
I'm using this drill bit. Will not crack the tile. Start the hole by tilting the drill 45 degrees. Don't press too hard . amzn.to/48RHHnz (Affiliate link). For screws I'll use anything that goes into the hole with sufficient length.
Never thought I’d find watching a guy installing an ikea kitchen so interesting… until you buy an ikea kitchen. This guy is pretty awesome !
This guy says thank you. I'm glad you like the videos.
Yes indeed! I assembled a Kalax buffet, a tall Billy with glass door, and 2 Besta wall units with Lappviken doors. Now comes the time to install them securely and this channel is a Godsend.
Thanks 👍
An excellent video indeed. My kitchen project is in two parts - I have already completed the hob/oven and high cabinetry attached to the wall (and I used Rannes’ videos for that). I am now preparing to install a 6 cabinet Metod peninsula (3.6 metres long attached to the wall at one end) with a return 2.4 metres. I have done what many others have done and that is to research widely and replayed this video many times before I started. Rannes provides those 1% items that make a difference to the final outcome and that’s so important. One point that I would like to add is when installing the cover panels, I nip the points off the screws, using side cutters - it’s only a millimetre or so. It does not affect the screw penetrating the MDF, but does ensure that the screw does not hit the outside laminate on the panel. Great job Rannes.
Thanks. I'm glad that you find the videos helpful.
If you use the screws that comes with the cabinets, you'll be good as long as you don't go much further than flush. Nipping off a bit can be a good idea for sure.
Going too far isn't fun.😩
I'm going to save you a LOT of time...use Rannes' instructional videos. I spend copious amounts of time finding the best TH-camr videos to help in my home projects. Invest the time to view and understand what Rannes is saying...follow exactly the things he says and you'll have a successful Ikea kitchen cabinet install. All of this is assuming you have at least a minimal understanding of the tools you'll need to use. His contributions are among the best instructional videos on this topic and he's helped me have a successful kitchen installation...many thanks "Kitchens by Rannes".
Thanks a lot 👍🙏
I appreciate your review and feedback.
You're so right! Rannes is THE authority on IKEA installation.
Thanks 😊👍
Nicely demonstrated and explained.Thank you. I watched this many time before I put my ikea island.
Thanks, I appreciate your feedback.
Took me a while to find this video but it settled my mind nicely when I did. Thank you Rannes..Fantastically educational video.
Glad it was helpful! All the best 👍
absolutely great video on how to assemble an ikea island ! ... thank you so much for taking the time to record, explain each step & share with everyone... & thank-you especially for all those tips based on your obvious abundance of experience.
rgds
mike
toronto
canada
Thanks, Mike. I appreciate your feedback and I'm happy to learn that you like the video.
All the best with your project.
Lars, Ottawa 🇨🇦
Sir, it's pure joy and relax to watch and listen to you :) I'm watching details before installing my moms huuuge kitchen :D
All best from Poland!
Dziękuję. Doceniam komplement 🙏
Good luck with your mom's kitchen 😁
I've just finished my IKEA two base cabinet (rolling island). I followed your advice in the video and planned the rest myself.
Looks like you're the DIY pro now! Ready to take on the next IKEA challenge?
If you feel like sharing your work, check this: kitchensbyrannes.com/share/
This was very helpful. Not every installation is the same due to unforseen factors but Rannes guide took the edge off. Thank you very much!
You're welcome! 🤗
Appreciate the video and learn every time. I think I would have to attach one bracket on each side of the island supports though, as it would bug me if I didn't. If you mark and then move the cabinets after placing them as you did in this video, your arms wouldn't need any special joints. Would it make a difference in the end, probably not, but it is the right way to do it. Just my OCD.
Thanks for your input. Did you see that Ikea have discontinues the bracket shown in the video? The new one looks like this: www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-floor-anchoring-frame-f-ktchn-islnd-10557036/
Hi, I was told there’s concrete beneath my flooring and wanted to know if I can screw the supports with the provided screws or if I’d need something extra? Thanks in advance!
It depends on the thickness of your floor. If it's ½" or ¾" hardwood you can use short screws for the brackets but if you have a thin floor, youl need some screws for concrete. You can get those at your local hardware store.
Thank you for this. I didny know about the assembly kit for the island , only the for the floor..very useful.sure wish you were in California! Thank you again for an excellent video.
You're welcome, Lyndon.
Now you do for the next time you do a kitchen 👍
Sometimes I wish I was in California too.
@@kitchensbyrannes lol
how to put the quartz countertop? glue?
I don't offer to do that so me recommendations is based on what I've seen done by the countertop companies. They simply put the counters on top of the cabinets and then apply a bead of silicone from the underside of the counter.
10:12 what drill bit and screws do you use when working with porcelain tile? I’m very nervous about chipping or cracking the new tile I just had installed.
I use these. Very good. Will not crack the tiles. Start drilling by tilting the drill 45 degrees.
amzn.to/48RHHnz
(Affiliate link).
For screws I use anything that fits through the hole and has sufficient length.
Thank you, this helped me a lot :)
My pleasure 🙏
Amazing!!! Thank you for making this video.
You're very welcome.
Wish I had had this video 2 weeks ago. We love your videos. 😊
Thanks. I'm sorry it took so long to finish the video ☺️
@@kitchensbyrannes It took us almost 3 weeks (granted not full days) to build the kitchen. With the island being one of the more problematic items.
Next time it'll go a lot faster ☺️
EXCELLENT VIDEO. Exactly what I needed to gain confidence for my island install. One question: When attaching the cabinets to the wood brackets, the screws will pull the wood bracket up to the cabinet? And then the additional screws in the bracket will hold it in place? Should the two screws holding the metal bracket, installed first, also be tightened at this step?
Thanks Tim.
Yes, you're on to something. Sorry for not being clear about the order of tightening the screws.
The two thick screws shouldn't be tightened to begin with. Just enough to hold the brackets in place.
Then you secure the cabinets to the brackets, and finally tighten the thick ones completely and add a few of the shorter screws to secure the brackets into the 2x4" further.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you! I'm doing my island this weekend!
You're very welcome. Enjoy 👍
but ikea's countertops are 25.6" wide and thise side panel 26" wide. what do you do about that 0.4 inches?
Thank you for your question.
Since I've never installed a "counter deep" counter top on an island as you describe it, I've never faced the problem.
99% of my clients get quartz counters or use the 42" deep countertop from Ikea for their island.
When you attach the two smaller side panels, how much overhang are you leaving at the front? I assume this is so it is flush with the doors/drawers?
I leave ⅝" (16 mm) and no, not flush with fronts.
Great video. Simple and easy. Quick question, I did not find the lower brackets like you put in this video for the island. Do I have to buy them seperately? What is the part number? Mine came with only the top two brackets.
Thanks.
Ikea recently discontinued the island support brackets shown in the video.
The new one: www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-floor-anchoring-frame-f-ktchn-islnd-10557036/
I haven't made a video on the new one yet, so you'll have to consult the instructions from Ikea
I so appreciate your videos! They’ve helped me so much. How would I attach the base cabinets if I want one of them to open to the side instead of both opening to the front. I need to attach the back of one cabinet to the side of the other. How?
Thanks.
Do you mean if you have a peninsula with the cabinet facing the opposite way?
Panels and fillers are the key.
Looking for pictures......stand by
Yes, something like that
I looked but didn't find anything.
Sorry you're on your own 🤗
Hi I have a question please... Am I understanding right that the way to level the island is by adjusting the legs? and that is all? No shims needed, correct? Thank you for this video
Yes, all Ikea base cabinets are standing on the black plastic legs, which are fully capable of holding up even heavy cabinets with a heavy countertop. Said legs can be adjusted individually.
th-cam.com/video/yPe87tVqqqg/w-d-xo.html
Super helpful! What did you use for side and back panels? Ikea Forbattra cover panels?
Thanks 👍
Yes, 26x36" (cut to height) at the ends, and 36x96" (cut to height and length) at the back.
Hi there, thank you so much for posting your detailed videos. They are a tremendous help.
I just had one question though. If you were to put granite on your island, would those Ikea 2x4's with brackets and legs be enough to support it?
Thanks
Gil
Thank you for your comment. I'm happy to hear that you find the videos helpful.
Short answer: yes, no problem. The legs alone can carry the load. Use a box of legs (4 pcs) per cabinet. The purpose of the support brackets is to prevent the cabinets sliding sideways.
I came across your TH-cam channel and really enjoyed your detailed videos, great work! An idea for a new video would be an island install on a floating floor with the dishwasher at the end and how you deal with the floating floor and attaching the end panel. I have not come across a video dealing with this situation.
Looking forward to your next video.
Cheers,
Mike
Thanks, Mike, for the video suggestion.
Since it'll be a good while before I get to do the desired video, I'll give you a few hints
Whether the floor is floating or not, doesn't change much in regards to the "how." Only to the "when."
If your floor is floating, build and secure the island. If you want all the panels to run to the floor, which you do since you have a dishwasher, those goes in after the floor.
I hope your island is one row only because having a dishwasher at the end in a double row island isn't desirable. If it's one row, cut a 26x36" panel in height and create a 24" open space between the cabinet next to where the dishwasher will go and the endp panel, by using an island kit where you cut the MDF strips to 24". Mount the strips into the adjacent cabinet and the end panel. That leaves a 24" opening for the dishwasher.
The big 36x96" panel must be cut to fit the back, also covering the dw opening.
Got it?
@@kitchensbyrannes Given you shouldn’t screw through a floating floor I have put a 2x4 base frame in place that the cabinets of the island will sit on, this then takes the weight of the island so it’s not sitting on the floating floor and also ensures the flooring will not be able to expand beyond the 1/4” space up to the base frame. My questions/issues then are how to support the counter top at the end of the dishwasher and secure it to the floor. Is using an ikea panel sufficient support for the counter top or should there be additional “structure” along with the ikea panel (say a piece of 1/2” plywood) as well as something along the top between the last cabinet and the end “panel” (say a 24” cabinet rail). Then the question of how to secure the end “panel” to the floor, you don’t want to screw it through the flooring given it needs to be able to float. I’ve thought able adding a piece of 1/2” plywood at the end, cutting out the flooring around the plywood and securing the plywood to the subfloor and then attaching the ikea panel to the plywood which would then cover the 1/4” gap between the flooring and the plywood. In this scenario I would have to find a way to cover up the front edge of the plywood next to the ikea panel. Hopefully this is clearly described. Thoughts?
@@michaelmcallister8501 Hi Michael. It all sounds complicated. 🙂I am unsure if I understand the whole frame situation correctly, but since you have done that already, there is no need to dwell on that part.
The end panel. In that situation, I connect the 26x36" (cut to height) to the back panel (36x96" cut to length and height) by use of the Ikea Island Kit. I let the panel stand on top of the floor (floating or not), but I don't secure it to the floor (even though it could be possible with very short screws). Modern dishwashers are secured into the adjacent cabinet/panel, so that is enough. The panel will be attached to the countertop with silicone or whatever the countertop folks are using. The importance of a free-floating floor can be more relaxed nowadays than earlier, where mdf was the most used material. Modern materials do not expand as much, and I don't think the "Luxury Vinyl Stuff" expands at all. It is plastic. I do not add any extra support at the top, as this will prevent the dishwasher from being installed correctly, i.e. all the way up under the dishwasher.
Thanks for the detailed video. Is that MDF 3/8th strip included with all base cabinets or is it something purchased separately? Is that fairly new?
Thank you. I'm happy to hear that you find the videos helpful.
The MDF strip is called an Island Assembly Kit and is purchased separately.
I use one per cabinet in the island and one for dishwasher if that's in the island too.
www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-assembly-kit-for-kitchen-island-00298411/
Excellent Job, this is super helpful!! thank you very much Rannes!
one question tho, do you know if there is a way to fix the island without drilling in the floor?
You're very welcome.
If you don't want to screw the island into the floor, the only way to obtain stability is to replace the legs with a frame, as I show in this video
th-cam.com/video/dxIwY_8kFNs/w-d-xo.html
@kitchenbyrannes, wouldn’t it be possible with poly max or pattex no more nails?
Hi! What level do you use? I can’t seem to find one like yours online and it’s not in your tools guide
Thanks for asking.
The one I'm using is shown on this page.
kitchensbyrannes.com/kitchen-cabinet-leveling-with-laser-level/
Thanks! One question: You're saying the minimum distance between cabinet and floor should be 11.5 cm, where does that number come from? According to the IKEA manuals, the feet should be exactly 8 cm high (same as the height of the plinth)?
Hi Frantz.
Thank you for your question. ah, since I made the video, I realized that the legs are shorter in Europe.
Did I say 11.5 cm or 4½ inches?
The legs for Ikea cabinets are, as you wrote, 8 cm in Europe but 4½ inches in US/Canada.
I better check the video and correct/make a note in the description.
Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
Wow, thanks for the lightning fast reply! At 11:54 you're saying "4½ inches" and it says "11.5 cm" on screen, superimposed. I didn't even think about the possibility of there being different heights between regions, that makes total sense. Thanks for clearing things up, now I can get to work without too many open questions. Love your videos!
@@franzthus2669 Yeah, fast is my middle name 🙂 I am on vacation, but I was checking up on stuff when you commented.
It wasn;t until I made the latest rail video I realized that the legs on Ikea cabinets are shorter in Europ, so I better add a comment to the Island video.
I am in Australia, and it is also 80mm kicker plate. The floor is not installed yet, so I have added 10 mm allowance for the hybrid floor (6mm + 4mm variation)@@kitchensbyrannes
@@poden3863Excellent, that's the way to do it?
are screws used for attaching the side panels to the island provided by IKEA? they are shorter than the ones used for attaching the back panel? because the back panel has the metal bracket with the lip as an added thickness to pass through.
Thank you for your question.
You can use the pan-headed screws, which comes with most of the panels, when attaching the side panels too. I use those at the back of the side. At the front I prefer to hide the screws behind a hine or shelf (especially for wall cabinets) so here I use the assembly screws which are included with the cabinet box. In general, I only use screws provided with the Ikea parts, except for the screws for hanging the suspension rails.
Your videos are so so helpful!!! Thank you so much!!
I have a very urgent question! I can't find those brackets that attach the cabinets to the back panel and I don't know how to order them. Do you know the item number for them??
You're very welcome.
Yes, the part you need is called Assembly Kit Island.
www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-assembly-kit-for-kitchen-island-00298411/
I need help on my island. What panel did you use from IKEA? The only ones recommended are to small.
Ah....your are in Europe or Australia?
I'm not sure why Ikea is punishing those markets with such a slim selection of panels.
I would go with the 62 cm wide one and cut it in height (and width) and use as many as you have cabinets.
@@kitchensbyrannes Nope, I'm in the US. The panels they recommend are 24x30 and I would need 30x35 to touch the floor, "waterfall" edge style.
Okay. Good. Get the 26x36" and cut the height only, as explained in the video.
Do I see correctly that you do not have cabinets sharing legs? It seems indeed more sturdy and flexible to not share the leg, but Ikea guide states it should be shared?
You see correctly, Mr.
I don't share dessert and I don't share legs. It's a lot easier during installation to use one box of legs per cabinet (two for corners) than sharing one leg between two.
One more question: how do you support the island countertop overhangs when they are too lengthy (e.g., 15 inches)? Do you perhaps use corbels or aluminum square profiles?
That's a question for the counter top company. 99% of my clients choose Quartz counters so I'm steering clear of that. From my experience, 15" will require support. Also, if you need overhang for sitting area, 10-12" of overhang should be sufficient.
Make a test with cardboard or whatever you have, bring over a chair and test for yourself.
Spelling mistakes fixed.... somehow 🤣
Thank you for your quick response, @kitchensbyrannes. I did some research and found that a 15" overhang is recommended for a 35" height countertop. I've already ordered and received this countertop at home. While 12" might be sufficient, the additional surface is practical for me, so I don't want to shorten it. I will probably use aluminum or steel profiles, or maybe corbels. We'll see what I get today :)
Ah...okay 👍
Is it wood?
I've used these once. Quite a pain to put in as you'll need support in the cabinet for the support 🤔 but it looks great as you won't have legs to bump into.
www.homedepot.ca/product/richelieu-16-inch-406-mm-k-300-kolossus-countertop-bracket-black-38-inch-thickness/1001540810?eid=PS_GOOGLE_D29K_Corporate_GGL_Shopping_PLA_Kitchen_Kitchen__PRODUCT_GROUP_pla-343007891671&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7OqrBhD9ARIsAK3UXh0TrOgKcIxHww6JmXoYuE4btbP6NJHcpjvKG9Sp9RRms9VDokm8A4oaArJkEALw_wcB
@@kitchensbyrannes its laminate 1,5" countertop. Yes exactly, something like this. It will be a little complicated to mount indeed, but for the long run I think its better than some support legs😊
fantastic video again! Thanks for the heads up for the new floor anchoring and connector rail kit.
Have you used the new kit and do you find it more intuitive?
I'm installing my island right next to a wall - would you recommend leaving a small gap to the wall or attach it as closely as possible?
Thanks, again 🙏
I've used the new island kit once, for a double-row island. Didn't like it that much but maybe I will after a few more.
If you leave a gap to the wall, it's an island, if you don't, it's a peninsula 🤣
No preference regarding installation.
Hi, I've been watching all of your videos as I'm getting ready to install my kitchen pretty soon. There was a video were you mentioned the type of screws you use to install the rail, but I don't remember which one it was. Would you consider making a video about the tools you use to install IKEA kitchens? Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in your channel.
Thank you for watching all my videos. 🙏
The screws....yes.
I use this one. a.co/d/3SD1TIl #ad
I'm planning on doing a tool video soon, but I'm afraid it won't be finished before you're done with your kitchen. Maybe for your next one? 🤔
I'll try to have a bigger kitchen on my next house. 😂 🙏🏼
@@veroandariega 🙂
Rannes, where do you get the brackets for attaching the large cover panel on the back of the island? Is that IKEA hardware? I don’t seem to have that bracket that has the ridge to prevent the screw from going through the panel in any of the hardware boxes that came with the kitchen island.
The special island brackets shown in the video have been discontinued since the video was posted.
The current island hardware is different.
www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-connector-rail-f-cabinet-cover-pnl-00557032/
And the anchoring kit:
www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-floor-anchoring-frame-f-ktchn-islnd-10557036/
Can you provide a link or model of the green measuring tool you use to accompany the laser level when leveling cabinets?
Thank you for your question.
That green target thing came with my laser.
It is similar to this one:
amzn.to/4604v3e #ad
@@kitchensbyrannes your videos are awesome! Appreciate the attention to detail.
Thanks, I'm happy to hear that you find my videos helpful.
im wondering if you can give me advice if you don have the mdf with those special bracket what is the other option thanks
It was discontinued, and replaced by this:
www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-connector-rail-f-cabinet-cover-pnl-00557032/
So helpful! Which screws do we use for the side panels?
Thanks. I use the one that comes with a regular base or wall cabinet, or those that are included with most of the panels.
Help! I’m stuck! I’m not sure which screws to use for the side and back panels. I see you holding up some that I think you called “pan head” but I don’t have any of those. In the crappy ikea instructions there’s even a photo of that screw with an “X” over it to say not to use it but it doesn’t seem like any of my cabinets even included them. All of my screws are 1” long and I’m nervous that they’re too short and that I need 1 1/4” screws.
Is it better for back panel to be from 1 single piece that holds all cabinets together or multiple pieces or it doesnt matter?
I always try to have one piece only, if possible.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you, it seems reasonable as then its additionally tying cabinets together. I got separated pieces in Ikea for each of the cabinets but I will return them and get 1 single piece.
Ah....Ikea. The joy of experts. Unfortunately, the staff in the kitchen department have never installed a kitchen, so they know very little about the "how to". Tomorrow I'm starting on a kitchen where Ikea tiled my client that he doesn't need to get suspension rails for the base cabinets. 😱 Sure, it's possible to do without but it'll take a week to install and level 👍
Hi Rannes, any tips if you're installing cabinets on the other side of the island (back to back)
I'm working on a video showing how to do just that but it'll be another month or so before it's done.
If you shoot me an email I'll share some pictures.
Thank you so much
You're very welcome 🤗
What are you using to cut the panels? A table saw? What style of blade are you using?
I use a table saw and a track saw, both with asmany teeth as possible.
Thanks, so how many island brackets do I need for 3 24x24x30? I will guess 5 , right? No legs are needed too, right?
Also, if I want to have an integrated existing dish washer, can I use 2 panels replacing one base cabinet?
I think you need to watch the video again ☺️
The answers to your questions are in there. Sorry for not looking up the answers but I cannot keep up. 🙏
@@kitchensbyrannes The sides panels do not get flushed to the back panel as shown on the video? So there is no need to cut it to size with the back panel, right? Is there a specific reason? Thanks!
On a single row island I use the 26x36" panels on the sides and I only cut them at the top.
The back panel must be cut to length and height.
I'm good with the 8ft length panel to cover 4x 24x30 base cabinet.
It's short of 1/8 of an inch though.
Cutting the 8ft length, I had to use an 8ft saw guide which makes the job easier but carrying it on the roof of the car is something else. I'm getting this done soon.
@@cpm5303 You got this. Almost finished. 👌
Would polymax or pattex or similar kit/glue not be an alternative to drilling in the floor? For example in case of floor heating?
I wouldn't know since it hasn't been the case for me.
In that case, I would probably make an floating island.
th-cam.com/video/dxIwY_8kFNs/w-d-xo.html
I'm not sure if this is a non issue, but I'm about to put on the sides and back panel just like the video and I'm going to have a 12 inch overhang for seating, I'm worried that the side panels that are sticking out in the "back" will be caught by people's feet when they get up. Or am I just overthinking it like usual? 😅
☺️ Yeah, you got it. It's not an issue 👍
Excellent video, IKEA gave me 2 separate panels for back of island which would leave a joint in middle…… no good, I’m getting a 36”x96” like you did. As for side panels, they extend past the back? Are the front of side panels flush with doors?
Thanks. I am glad you like it. Yes, I let the end panels (26x36" cut at the top) extend at the back, whatever is left from letting them protrude the cabinet by 5/8" at the front. I do not make them flush with the doors because something the doors have to be adjusted outwards on one of the hinges, and then "flush" doesn't exist.
@@kitchensbyrannes I tried leaving 5/8” protruding at front on upper cabinets but doors are 3/4” so doors are proud of panel. Wish panels for uppers were 1/4” bigger. Oh well.
Doors being proud of panels is what you want actually. Here is why.
If your doors are flush with the panel and you have to adjust one of corners where the door is hinged, outwards, it will not be flush anymore. If the panel sits a bit back from the door, you won't notice the difference between top and bottom.
Makes sense?
Absolutely!! Thanks for quick response.
You're welcome 👍
Questiom, why did you leave approximately 1 inch at the back of the 2 side panels, what is the purpose of those panels not to be cut where the edge of the back panel is?
I do that not to have an open visible cut at the end.
@@kitchensbyrannes hm, ok. And what about if floors are uneven? DO you use filler to fill the gap at the bottom or sylicone?
@@peterregouc102 Nope. Do not do that either. I use zero silicone during the installation, except when I install a sink.
But how do you fill the gap at floor if floor is uneven ?@@kitchensbyrannes
@@illustratedquotes I don't. I never cut the panel at the floor either.
If floor is uneven or not horizontal, I leave it as-is.
i'm confused, can I ask you, what kind of panel do you use for the back finish panels ? on Ikea it's written that the panels are only for the sides... can you use them for both ? thank you
Yes ask away.
For the back of islands and peninsulas you'll use the big 36x96"
thank you :) !!! @@kitchensbyrannes
You're very welcome.
@@kitchensbyrannes what would you use for the back of an island that is 10ft long?
@heatherwardrop6101. I would use a 36x96" and a 26x36" and I will have two uncut edges meet where two cabinet meets. This means that if you don't have a 24" and one end, you'll need two 36x96" panels.
What if one of your cabinets has the wire X-bracing instead of the thin boord backing? The X-brace is not flush agsinst the back of the cabinet. 😢
If the cabinet in question, is sitting next to at least one other cabinet, I wouldn't be afraid to take of the X-bracing, at it will be kept in place by the adjacent cabinet(s).
You can also "countersink" the X-bracing by taking it off, remove some of the cabinet where it rests, and put it back on..
When you say you use the big panels... 3 * 8 feet etc I have a LERHYTTAN Black method style kitchen and I can not see these size panels on the ikea online store ?... Does anyone know why this is ?
Are you in Europe?
I know that the big panels aren't available on all markets, which I find weird.
In Denmark, the biggest panel is 62 x 240 cm.
@@kitchensbyrannes Yes in Europe ... Greetings from Ireland, Yes its very weird... been scratching my head as to how I am supposed to get it to look nice but I guess I have to chop the big panels and have multiple panels instead of one big one, its the only option for me unfortunately... Thanks for the reply and your videos they are very helpful although you make it look too easy :)
Thanks.
I do too, patchwork island it is.
But ....but....it is easy 😂
I wish I had room for an island. 😄
If I had a dollar for every time I've heard that sentence 😁
@@kitchensbyrannes 😅🤭🙈
Details details, and centimetres:)
Yeah, I remembered to add one measurement in metrics ☺️
My panels did not come with the mdf strips
These are purchased separately.
However, the ones in the video have been discontinued.
New one: www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-connector-rail-f-cabinet-cover-pnl-00557032/
If the floor is not level, you HAVE to cut at the floor. I’m a fitter of nearly 30 years. This is not an argument but a fact
Thank you for your input.
In my world, longevity in a trade counts for nothing if the person has been delivering below average quality for years. Not saying that you have though, but if a quarter round is your go-to magic trick, sorry 😞 ☺️🙏
I only cut at the floor in extreme circumstances. My clients will rather look at a small gap than a panel which eventually will let moisture in, despite "professional caulking skills" at work.
@@kitchensbyrannes I have never used quarter round-ever. I scribe the panel to the floor. We here in the UK work on old and in some cases, extremely old properties where a floor can run out 50 mm over a one metre span(and more). How,with your system could you ever tackle that and be successful? You couldn’t. A man fitting exclusively IKEA kitchens calling out someone whose main work has been bespoke kitchens,studies and bedrooms is pretty rich.
In one of your comments to someone else that questioned your methods, you told him that you were on 225 kitchens - so your argument of longevity holds no water does it?
Well, if I offended you, I apologize.
I meant to say that doing something for many years isn't necessarily a testament to "doing it right". I see contractors with decades of experience in the trade, delivering piss poor performance.
I cannot say whether you're good or not, but I'll take your word for it.
However, stating that your "position" is a "fact" turns on my lights 😉
The world isn't black or white.
I'm in Canada, and the quarter round is indeed a problem solver for many contractors here. And I see them caulk like their livelihood depends on it ...well, I guess it does, because lots of trim work is truly appalling and will only be kinda okay when all the gaps are filled with caulk and painted.
And yes, you're right about cutting at the floor is necessary when the floor is sagging as you describe.
Enjoy your day ☺️
10:12 what drill bit and screws do you use when working with porcelain tile? I’m very nervous about chipping or cracking the new tile I just had installed.
I'm using this drill bit. Will not crack the tile. Start the hole by tilting the drill 45 degrees. Don't press too hard .
amzn.to/48RHHnz
(Affiliate link).
For screws I'll use anything that goes into the hole with sufficient length.