Hello everyone, I had a bike fit from James around 6 years ago when he was based at sigma. I had experienced all kinds of issues over a long period of time, had tried 10 of saddles and messed with my position endlessly based on every flavour of TH-cam advice. To this day I have based my position on what James gave me (even though it completely contradicted the 3 previous bike fits from 3 different fitters I'd had before). I have had no injuries, no pain, no saddle sores and have ridden in comfort ever since. This man knows his stuff. If you have issues, Book an appointment with this guy, you really do get what you pay for and he's a really nice guy. I rode the Haute Route Alps 3 weeks after his fit, not only did I really enjoy it but rode the whole week feeling stronger than had ever ridden before. Can't recommend James highly enough. Thanks James!
I love your attitude toward stupid comments. From straight saying, "You're wrong," to pointing out that people don't want to spend money on anything unless they can take a picture of it and show it off on Instagram, your instincts are spot on, you aren't afraid to say the truth, and your responses are hilarious!
how about a video on HOW TO DO THINGS RIGHT 101? how and where to grip your handlebar? what part of your ass is supposed to sit where on the saddle? wtf is hip rotation anyway? what does a proper paddle stroke look like and which muscles are responsible during the phases? weight distribution? what to do with the shoulders, pull them up, down or keep em relaxed? chest out? straight back?
2 of the most impactful things I made to my bike, narrower bars and shorter cranks. many years of trial and year and after these 2 changes, 'it' finally clicked
I was a bit of a crank length sceptic too. I went for a bike fit with James. I was sitting on his test rig and I was still a crank length sceptic. Then he knocked 5mm off the cranks. My straight elbows flexed and I fell into a much more comfortable riding position ... I don't know how or why it works, but it worked for me. It's cost me a few new cranksets but I'm genuinely grateful ... thank you James!! Should have said that before. No more hand numbness, no tweaked nerves in my shoulders. I ride nearly all the time 'in the hoods', no problem. I'm 6ft tall by the way!!
This was genius. I’ve been watching James since COVID started on Francis’ channel and this was one of his best. I know he’s a busy guy, but I vote for this format (maybe on a parallel channel) to be a regular part of his production. I’m a 6’-6”, 61 yo and have never been more comfortable on my bike since slowly applying what I’ve learned from James. Recreational road rider since 1987. I can’t thank him enough. Peace
Absolute true about narrower handlebar, had the same thing with the hands, put on narrower bar (because I listened to James) and it is so mutch better and more comfortabel. So thank you James
8:03 Yeah it bothered me a lot too. Too many people claim that shortening crank length needs upping saddle height. But for those who need shorter crank are running saddle height too high in the first place, so usually no upping saddle height or even lowering it. For those who need upping saddle don't need shorter crank.
Hi James. I've found your content so useful remedying a few problems I've had on my MTB. I have had pneumonia unfortunately two winters in a row and became quite deconditioned. I had niggling knee pains and back pain on getting back on the bike. I've reduced both saddle height and crank length, and a even running G8 footbeds in my flat pedal shoes with good results, and am much more comfortable. The G8 footbeds particularly have helped stabilise my knees pedalling. They're grea8! Sorry for thr awful pun.
You're the only TH-camr with the goodwill to get me to comment on a video. Hope the algorithm helps the channel. The content you produce is much appreciated!
Loved this, loved the questions. I'm in IT support, and I get people all day telling me diagnoses rather than symptoms. No, my brother in tech, your job is to tell me the problem. My job is to provide the solution. Same-same. My take-away: I might want to look at narrower handlebars. (And I'd love to schedule a fit next time I'm in your hemisphere with my bike.)
From a coworker's recommendation both my wife and I got a bike fit from Ian at Fit Werx in Vermont last year. I was pleased that many of the things James has mentioned over the years were covered. She ended up with narrower bars, shorter stem, shorter cranks, and insoles, and I ended up with a shorter stem, shorter cranks, and later bought a pair of G8s. I was fairly comfortable beforehand (having taken tips from James since I first saw him on Cade's channel) and I still saw some improvement, but it was even more significant for her. The biggest benefits that I couldn't get from watching the videos (though James mentions it) were the specific postural, stretching, and muscle-specific strength exercises (and pointers to see a PT for some things) that we both got from Ian, tailored to old injuries that had led to long-term compensation and asymmetric muscle use when riding. Totally worth it.
As a commuter/mtbiker, I listened to many of your tips with interest and tried to use them to fit my position to my body. I have to say that it worked really well for me and I feel much more comfy now (and I move better on my bikes).
Since watching your videos here or on Cade media I have made so many improvements to my gravel bike, from bar width to seat height etc etc... My riding experience is so much more enjoyable now.. Cheers James..👍
I want to thank you for motivating me to experiment with the set up on my bike. I have long legs and a short torso, and I always felt so stretched out and uncomfortable when riding. I ended up raising the saddle height by about 25 mm, moving the saddle nearly all the way forward, and replacing the old 130mm stem with a 90mm. What a difference! I’ve got more power, I’m working more muscles, I feel so much more comfortable with my riding position, I’ve got better and lighter feel and control on the handlebars, my arms are now bent at the elbows instead of being stretched all the way out, and I no longer get lower back pain from riding. I had always thought that raising the saddle height to accommodate the length of my legs would stretch me out further on the bike, but it has had exactly the opposite effect. I don’t pretend for a moment that everything is optimal, but it is so much better than before. Thank you again!
That was a fun video (I think). I tend to agree with you that almost no one rides a bike that's too small for them, but a lot of people do have bikes that are too big. I unfortunately have a lot of experience with going too large, actually with almost all of the bikes I've ever had. It's kind of amazing how much of a difference seemingly tiny changes can make. It only took me about 20 years to finally figure out that reducing your reach, getting narrower handlebars, lowering your saddle a bit, and getting very slightly shorter cranks will actually make riding a bicycle a completely pain-free experience. I always thought that pain was just part of the deal on long rides.
I liked Bike Fit Tuesdays, and I’m glad you have your own channel. I see a well known fitter here in the US and having been to amateurs different times, I can confirm your info is rock solid. Thanks
Hi James. TL;DR: Have your feelings about the IBFI changed? The longer version... Regarding certifications, you'd recommended using the IBFI in the past to find a fitter (before April of 2021 as that's when I booked my appointment with an IBFI fitter). I'd actually found your videos because (surprise) I was experiencing issues that a previous fitter didn't address. They did improve things somewhat, but I ended up chasing an issue around the triangle... fix the hands and the knees hurt. Fix the knees, and the back hurts; fix the back, and the hands hurt, etc. I took your advice (this was in early 2021) and found a level 3 IBFI fitter close to me. She has a degree in kinesiology. She looked at me riding my old bike for five minutes and said, "I can make it better, but 1) that bike is too big for you and 2) you should not be riding an "endurance" geometry." I was not expecting number 2. Anyhow, I ended up on a bike that was a full size smaller than what the manufacturer recommended (*cough* TREK), and went with the H1.5 geometry vs. the H2 (old bike was a 54 cm H2 Emonda... I ended up on a 52 cm H1.5 Emonda by chance... she was blinded to the make/model, she was just looking at pure geometry, and the shop she works for doesn't carry Trek so I'm pretty sure it was an unbiased recommendation). Most comfortable bike I've ever ridden in the 4 decades I've been a roadie! So, total success story. Have your feelings about the IBFI changed? I noticed that they seem to have recently changed their certification requirements, and they don't seem to be as transparent as before.
Well done. Loved this type of video. Really enjoy you bike fits on the jig as well. As with many athletic movements, you can do it wrong for many years not realizing you are using compensatory positions, until you get older and "ouch!!".
Love your channel. As a bike fit nerd, I have studied everything I can on the subject. I have read Phil Burt's Bike Fit book, Andy Pruit's, watched tons of videos by a bike fitter in Colorado (bikefitadvisor). I even took advantage of Phil Burt's online bike fit during COVID. For $60 US, I sent him videos of me on my trainer and then had a 30 minute consult with him. It was kind of a disappointment, as he told me I was basically already in the bike fit window, but he did give me some minor changes to make. When buying a superbike last year, I went to an in-person bike fitter. The only major change he made was to shorten my stem length, which I had previously assumed I would need to do. He also speced 165 mm cranks. He also used CAD to select my new bike. I suppose I can give myself some credit for getting my fit close, but I feel it was still worth it to go to professionals. There is only so much self diagnosis you can do, no matter what your knowledge base. And my new bike fits like a glove! Aside from the above, I am still learning from your videos.
Man who thought crank lengths would be the grit in everyone's gears! After my comment on your last video about sound quality, this video sounds great! Keep up the great work. I get the notification of a new BFJ video and I immediately click on it!!
Great stuff, followed you via Cade since before COVID & I'm looking forward to more! I wanted to insult you after the 'comments are too nice' observation but when hearing common sense, knowledgeable, experienced & passionate arguments over 5 years its just not possible you fool!!
Love your videos, have tried some of your tips they have all worked, ie 165 cranks, narrower bars, cleat location, thank you for your expertise and advice
Thanks for responding 😂. I have to bring my cheap bike in one day. I did get a Retül fit a few years back but I'm not convinced he go the handlebars with right so have been dropping them from the standard 44cm to 42cm (his recommendation), then down to 40cm as the bar tape wears out.
Re: Price. I had a bike fit with Lee at Bicycle on my 2017 Canyon Endurace. I had a big trip (north south Portugal) booked and wasn't 'uncomfortable' on my bike, but I wanted to make sure I could enjoy the trip to the max. Got new shoes, insoles, pedals, spacers, saddle, bars, stem. Cranks from eBay (supply issues). I'd say I ended up spending at least 80% of what my bike was worth at the time, and could have instead bought a pair of flash wheels or a solid bike upgrade. However, honestly it was the best money I've spent. The X-Wide Lakes I have are a game changer, being on the bike feels so natural and comfortable. Coming back home from a 200k day out and feeling fresh is awesome for me, a casual rider in their 40s. Highly recommend it!
I narrowed my handlebar by 2mm (44->42) and it made the bike a lot more comfortable. I'm still getting numbness in my left hand, but that started way back when I switched to SRAM Force hydraulic levers from my mechanical levers, and I've heard that the ergonomics of the levers themselves has been a problem. Anyway, I love the content; gives me an idea of the questions I should be asking and what I should be thinking about when I look at parts.
All hail the bike fit guru James. And to cap everything he does make me giggle like a schoolgirl when he crucifies some of the less informed amongst us 👍👍👍
Loved the Video, Still trying to get comfortable, I had a bike fit about 22ish years ago at Sigma, And still use and have the fit data, Although I'm guessing as a near 90kg riding nowadays I look like a sack of spuds in lycra, I wouldn't even mind you filming it, O and mid 50's Cheers Colin
Now a request: Gravel vs. Road geometry considerations. I made the mistake of thinking that I could translate the results of my road bike pro-fitting to a gravel bike. OOPS!!! So yea, that was a big fail. What I think I didn't appreciate is that terrain is a constant on the road, and it's a variable on gravel. I'm assuming that the optimal geometry for a road bike will not necessarily translate to a gravel bike. That MAY be the case if you live in an area with luxury class 1 gravel that is well maintained, and doesn't have lots of elevation changes (so less erosion). However, in my area, where a road ride with a lot of climbing might clock in at 70 feet vertical per mile average, that would be considered an "easy" gravel ride, with our gravel rides often clocking in at 100 feet vertical per mile average (I had one that averaged 150 vertical per mile for the first 40 miles.... fortunately the remaining 20 miles were a gradual downhill). Also, smooth luxury gravel isn't common around here. Things tend to be more chunky, so your hand are absorbing a lot of impact. Can you do a video that speaks to some of the special considerations folks need to keep in mind for gravel bikes, and how they might diverge from a typical road geometry? I suspect there are many roadies like myself who are turning to gravel because it's a more peaceful experience (in terms of dealing with traffic) and make incorrect assumptions given that gravel bikes and road bikes look similar.
Liked this kind of video. More of this please. I suffered from cervical impingement so I try to ride a more upright position to avoid my neck supporting my head in a less horizontal way. But at time I felt more relax on the drops than on the hood. I have 20cm spacer below my stem not sure should I lower it down but also worry my weight will fall forward and put a lot of pressure on my hands and shoulder.
I prob could do with a bike fit. I had spinal surgery 13 years ago (5 partial removal of lower 5 disks and a circular annular tear sewn up in a 6th vertebrae). Told I would never ride again by my surgeon at the time. even though I did after 5 years of hard post opp rehab. A few years ago I went from 100% MTB to mainly gravel to now primarily road . My confidence in my own flexibility has stopped me going for anything but an endurance geometry road frame. I would love something a bit more aggressive but unsure my body would cope with the arse in the air and slammed stem position. Although I get knee pain from time to time manage about 5-6k a year on "real riding" outside and Zwift. I still get the occasional back ache but nothing like those dark days of the past. Cheers for the informative vids
Here's one that brings me some confusion. I have two bikes, one indoors on motion rollers, one outdoors. Both bikes are the same frames, same saddle, same bars, same reach and drop, same saddle setback and height... I'm a tad OCD 😁 The only difference between the two is indoors is Ultegra 6800 and outdoors is R8000 (full mechanical, rim brake). For some reason I always find the indoor bike feeling a touch long while the outdoor bike feels like it fits like a glove. I just feel locked in on the outdoor bike and like something is off indoors.
Regarding cyclists who place their hands on the bars behind the hoods, this was a normal cruising position back in the 1960s - 90s before the current design of brake level hoods. Back in the day, the levers were smaller and the rubber hoods not as massive. Grasping the hoods was a position that was often used for hard climbs (racers didn't have the low gears of modern bikes), but not all the time. Placing hands on the bars behind the hoods may be an indication of too long a reach on a modern bike, but not necessarily on an older bike (which is what I still ride). Check out Figure 20-8 of "The Custom Bicycle" by Michael J. Kolin and Denise de la Rosa to see what I mean. Yes, we've come a long way since 1979 when this was published and I was racing!
For the bike size questions....175cm/5'9 seems to be in the medium size on most bike charts, but watching your vids/cade media, I feel like small would be the better choice. Local shop says stick with the Medium and adjust the stem if its too long. I feel like it would be easier to make the bike larger than smaller. Confused I am.
Were the James's having a giggle when they named their son Bikefit? Jk, jk. Love your insights man, and you have a very lovely speaking voice. Subscribed!
Great stuff as usual, James. The ONLY thing I didn't like about it was that you didn't answer my question about indoor training and saddle discomfort. What are the inherent challenges to comfort on an indoor trainer and how can we improve it? Hope you can address that. Thanks!
good one James! question from me - maybe not necessarily bike fit only - any tips or tricks for position adjustment (even during the ride) to really engage glutes? I find them sometimes very lazy and stubborn which causes quads to work more...
James, would it be possible to address the issue of how one's bike fit will change (probably) as the rider ages? Not so much 'less young' riders coming to you for a first proper fit, but what (& when) to consider altering as age affects flexibility & stability, etc. Thanks for the great work.
Hi James, Apart from the shop based measurements do you also go out for a ride with the victim/ client to see their riding style and basic level of athleticism? I think I'd feel better about paying for that over a shop and lasers style fitting 😄
Hello. Love your content and I'm glad to see you have your own channel now. I was wondering what the easiest way to extend your stance is on the bike. I have tibial tortion in my right knee and so my knee is almost always scraping the top tube. I was wondering if there is a easy way to combat this. Thanks
Hi James, As a fellow bike fitter, I’ve found your videos, along with the content on the CADE MEDIA channel, incredibly insightful and valuable for my own practice-so thank you for that! I’ve got a question for you: When BikeFit James is selecting a new bike, do you get a fit from a colleague at BICYCLE, or do you handle the fitting yourself? (I'm already LIKED and SUBSCRIBED)
The trend of saddle heights often being too high in the last 10-15years is partly because in the 80s & 90s it was common for club level riders to have their saddles a little low and be told so (but the pendulum has swung the other way)
There were also two riding styles: toe down in a more TT position; heel down. Toe down led to higher saddles. Remember handlebars and stems were higher in relation to saddle (see Eddy Merckx et al) with deeper drops. In my 20s, in 1970s, riding mostly solo, I had the saddle high and rode toe down reaching as far forward as possible, even had forearms on the bar top and held the brake cable (no hidden cables then!)
Hey James love the vids but I would love to see you fit a junior racer. I myself am a junior and had a bike fit and loved the improvement. I would like to see your method for both a racer and a junior. Keep up the sick content!
I've got a milestone birthday coming up in a couple of years (50th). I love my current fit on my Bianchi, but I'd really like to get fitted whilst simultaneously shopping for a bike to take me through my next decade of riding. How far out would one need to plan to book a fitting during the summer of 2027?
Loved this 🤣. The desk face plant is the only response to some people. TH-cam is responsible for creating armchair experts in just about every profession, including bike fitting now it seems.
I really enjoy your content. I’m heavily debating coming to that side of the world to see you and get a fit, my biggest concern is that if I do and there’s a problem then I would have to fly all the way back there. Either way. Keep up the good work. If your ever in the east coast of the US let me know, I’ll have some work for you. 😆
Love the comment at the end about handlebar width. As a slim guy I've gone from 42cm C-to-C to 40 to just ordered 38cm, which size seems less widely available (especially with flared drops). Do you find the market provides a good selection of handlebar shapes and sizes for your customers' requirements?
James, if you are truly between two frame sizes, when do you choose the smaller or the larger of the two, and why? Is it better to have a smaller frame with a longer stem so you are not cramped, or a larger frame with a smaller stem so you are not stretched out? Which situations would warrant one over the other?
You'd probably say my bike is too small for me lol Got a pretty long (100mm if I remember) stem with a good bit of rise and all the spacers I could fit on it too lol That being said I haven't had any issues of feeling cramped or anything since adding the spacers and stem and I've no toe overlap so maybe it's alright 🤷🏻♀️
I am having a difficult time riding on the hoods, one arm is slightly longer than the other. A cyclist in our group said I should try a shorter stem and then offset the right hood/lever back as to accommodate this oddity?
You often recommend a very narrow handlebar for women. It seems to me that an overly narrow handlebar could be somewhat dangerous, especially for women, as it requires more effort to control (especially in hazardous situations), and it's also harder to handle when standing on the pedals with a narrow bar. What do you think about this? I personally have narrow shoulders and ride with a 360mm handlebar, and even I sometimes feel discomfort for the reasons mentioned above. I'm considering switching back to a 400mm or at least a 380mm handlebar
Ohhh... I know I'm late to this party, but I found something, I think, that I never considered EVER before. So, previous set up, with 100mm stem. Decided to check if also me, I use too long stem. 80mm kicking around, off old goes, in new comes. ... and it sucks. Really badly... Took me 3 or 4 rides to figure out what was that bad. My saddle. It was too high. Dropped it by around 5mm and all of the sudden good again. Soooo... Am I imagining things or there is a correlation between stem length and saddle height? Cheers! I.
Hi James. When you install G8 insole to Lake CX238 shoe, would you remove heel pad that supposed to protect insole from heel rubber bolt? G8 heel section is quite flat so I find it doesn't really contact to the bolt. Also if I use heel wedge it just replaces the heel pad.
I usually throw those stupid heel pads in the bin - they have no use other than to protect the screws that adhere the heel protector on the outside of the sole
I've measured up my feet and ordered a "true to size" (44)pair of MXZ176 Lakes for my gravel bike. Bike (Vitus Substance VRS) is size "S" and there isn't a lot of room for error on toe overlap from the frame geometry(The lower underslung bottle cage mounts are cosmetic, couldn't get a cage and 500ml bottle in there without hitting the wheel). I'm currently using Shimano in a ridiculous size 46 when I should be a 44 so hopefully this may help(and I won't hopefully need the cleats slammed fully back which on 46's makes things even worse)
James, could you give some fit advices for cyclists who are not super fit and does not fit into the "average geo"? I'm currently on a 76 effective STA due to my short femur (74 PBH), and lean forwarded a lot. Could you please discuss how femur/tibia ratio affect how Fore (~ steep effective STA) vs Alt (~slack effective STA) the saddle should be? And how to know if the posture is upright vs low enough for one? Thanks a lot!
Hello everyone, I had a bike fit from James around 6 years ago when he was based at sigma. I had experienced all kinds of issues over a long period of time, had tried 10 of saddles and messed with my position endlessly based on every flavour of TH-cam advice. To this day I have based my position on what James gave me (even though it completely contradicted the 3 previous bike fits from 3 different fitters I'd had before). I have had no injuries, no pain, no saddle sores and have ridden in comfort ever since. This man knows his stuff. If you have issues, Book an appointment with this guy, you really do get what you pay for and he's a really nice guy. I rode the Haute Route Alps 3 weeks after his fit, not only did I really enjoy it but rode the whole week feeling stronger than had ever ridden before. Can't recommend James highly enough. Thanks James!
Thanks for the comment and glad to be of service! Here’s to many happy miles!
Chapeau!
Dr. House for bikefitting!
Dead on
Yeah he definetely reminds me of House
Nice!
House was quite sarcastic, Gordon is also quite on fire. James seems to be quite polite and patient, unlike either of them.
I love your attitude toward stupid comments. From straight saying, "You're wrong," to pointing out that people don't want to spend money on anything unless they can take a picture of it and show it off on Instagram, your instincts are spot on, you aren't afraid to say the truth, and your responses are hilarious!
How it should be to be honest. There's enough fake shit on the internet.
@@keessonnema Agreed!
I only watch two bike fitters on youtube, you and Neill Stanbury.
Same👍🏻
and Alison Moyet
Phil Burt too.
how about a video on HOW TO DO THINGS RIGHT 101? how and where to grip your handlebar? what part of your ass is supposed to sit where on the saddle? wtf is hip rotation anyway? what does a proper paddle stroke look like and which muscles are responsible during the phases? weight distribution? what to do with the shoulders, pull them up, down or keep em relaxed? chest out? straight back?
Yes, I would love this too!
Aren't there loads of these on Francis Cade's channel from when they were doing Bike Fit "Tuesdays"?
2 of the most impactful things I made to my bike, narrower bars and shorter cranks. many years of trial and year and after these 2 changes, 'it' finally clicked
Actually quite enjoyed this…look forward to another in future
I was a bit of a crank length sceptic too. I went for a bike fit with James. I was sitting on his test rig and I was still a crank length sceptic. Then he knocked 5mm off the cranks. My straight elbows flexed and I fell into a much more comfortable riding position ... I don't know how or why it works, but it worked for me. It's cost me a few new cranksets but I'm genuinely grateful ... thank you James!! Should have said that before. No more hand numbness, no tweaked nerves in my shoulders. I ride nearly all the time 'in the hoods', no problem. I'm 6ft tall by the way!!
Honestly, by listening to your advice I have fixed 90% of my bikefit problems. You're a legend in Ireland. I owe you a beer. 👍🇮🇪
This was genius. I’ve been watching James since COVID started on Francis’ channel and this was one of his best. I know he’s a busy guy, but I vote for this format (maybe on a parallel channel) to be a regular part of his production. I’m a 6’-6”, 61 yo and have never been more comfortable on my bike since slowly applying what I’ve learned from James. Recreational road rider since 1987. I can’t thank him enough. Peace
Absolute true about narrower handlebar, had the same thing with the hands, put on narrower bar (because I listened to James) and it is so mutch better and more comfortabel. So thank you James
Yes, same herer.
i've learned so much from you. I'm fortunate to have a good fitter and I go into it with much more knowledge and understanding thanks to your content
8:03 Yeah it bothered me a lot too. Too many people claim that shortening crank length needs upping saddle height. But for those who need shorter crank are running saddle height too high in the first place, so usually no upping saddle height or even lowering it. For those who need upping saddle don't need shorter crank.
Hi James. I've found your content so useful remedying a few problems I've had on my MTB. I have had pneumonia unfortunately two winters in a row and became quite deconditioned.
I had niggling knee pains and back pain on getting back on the bike. I've reduced both saddle height and crank length, and a even running G8 footbeds in my flat pedal shoes with good results, and am much more comfortable. The G8 footbeds particularly have helped stabilise my knees pedalling. They're grea8! Sorry for thr awful pun.
You're the only TH-camr with the goodwill to get me to comment on a video. Hope the algorithm helps the channel. The content you produce is much appreciated!
Lol, some people spend more than a bike fit on a pair of shoes. A bike fit is totally worth every penny
James your best advice that I endorsed was moving the cleats right back on my shoes.....Game changer for me,thanks for that advice.
Loved this, loved the questions. I'm in IT support, and I get people all day telling me diagnoses rather than symptoms. No, my brother in tech, your job is to tell me the problem. My job is to provide the solution. Same-same. My take-away: I might want to look at narrower handlebars. (And I'd love to schedule a fit next time I'm in your hemisphere with my bike.)
From a coworker's recommendation both my wife and I got a bike fit from Ian at Fit Werx in Vermont last year. I was pleased that many of the things James has mentioned over the years were covered. She ended up with narrower bars, shorter stem, shorter cranks, and insoles, and I ended up with a shorter stem, shorter cranks, and later bought a pair of G8s. I was fairly comfortable beforehand (having taken tips from James since I first saw him on Cade's channel) and I still saw some improvement, but it was even more significant for her. The biggest benefits that I couldn't get from watching the videos (though James mentions it) were the specific postural, stretching, and muscle-specific strength exercises (and pointers to see a PT for some things) that we both got from Ian, tailored to old injuries that had led to long-term compensation and asymmetric muscle use when riding. Totally worth it.
As a commuter/mtbiker, I listened to many of your tips with interest and tried to use them to fit my position to my body. I have to say that it worked really well for me and I feel much more comfy now (and I move better on my bikes).
Since watching your videos here or on Cade media I have made so many improvements to my gravel bike, from bar width to seat height etc etc...
My riding experience is so much more enjoyable now..
Cheers James..👍
I want to thank you for motivating me to experiment with the set up on my bike. I have long legs and a short torso, and I always felt so stretched out and uncomfortable when riding. I ended up raising the saddle height by about 25 mm, moving the saddle nearly all the way forward, and replacing the old 130mm stem with a 90mm. What a difference! I’ve got more power, I’m working more muscles, I feel so much more comfortable with my riding position, I’ve got better and lighter feel and control on the handlebars, my arms are now bent at the elbows instead of being stretched all the way out, and I no longer get lower back pain from riding. I had always thought that raising the saddle height to accommodate the length of my legs would stretch me out further on the bike, but it has had exactly the opposite effect.
I don’t pretend for a moment that everything is optimal, but it is so much better than before. Thank you again!
That was a fun video (I think). I tend to agree with you that almost no one rides a bike that's too small for them, but a lot of people do have bikes that are too big. I unfortunately have a lot of experience with going too large, actually with almost all of the bikes I've ever had. It's kind of amazing how much of a difference seemingly tiny changes can make. It only took me about 20 years to finally figure out that reducing your reach, getting narrower handlebars, lowering your saddle a bit, and getting very slightly shorter cranks will actually make riding a bicycle a completely pain-free experience. I always thought that pain was just part of the deal on long rides.
Appreciate the holistic approach to fitting. It's almost as if it's a whole person is sitting on a whole machine.
I liked Bike Fit Tuesdays, and I’m glad you have your own channel.
I see a well known fitter here in the US and having been to amateurs different times, I can confirm your info is rock solid.
Thanks
You saved me from saddle sores. So will always be a hero to me.
Hi James. TL;DR: Have your feelings about the IBFI changed? The longer version...
Regarding certifications, you'd recommended using the IBFI in the past to find a fitter (before April of 2021 as that's when I booked my appointment with an IBFI fitter). I'd actually found your videos because (surprise) I was experiencing issues that a previous fitter didn't address. They did improve things somewhat, but I ended up chasing an issue around the triangle... fix the hands and the knees hurt. Fix the knees, and the back hurts; fix the back, and the hands hurt, etc. I took your advice (this was in early 2021) and found a level 3 IBFI fitter close to me. She has a degree in kinesiology. She looked at me riding my old bike for five minutes and said, "I can make it better, but 1) that bike is too big for you and 2) you should not be riding an "endurance" geometry." I was not expecting number 2. Anyhow, I ended up on a bike that was a full size smaller than what the manufacturer recommended (*cough* TREK), and went with the H1.5 geometry vs. the H2 (old bike was a 54 cm H2 Emonda... I ended up on a 52 cm H1.5 Emonda by chance... she was blinded to the make/model, she was just looking at pure geometry, and the shop she works for doesn't carry Trek so I'm pretty sure it was an unbiased recommendation). Most comfortable bike I've ever ridden in the 4 decades I've been a roadie! So, total success story. Have your feelings about the IBFI changed? I noticed that they seem to have recently changed their certification requirements, and they don't seem to be as transparent as before.
Hi James. Loved that video. Your response to incorrect comments is very you!
Well done. Loved this type of video. Really enjoy you bike fits on the jig as well. As with many athletic movements, you can do it wrong for many years not realizing you are using compensatory positions, until you get older and "ouch!!".
This was absolutely amazing.. please do this monthly.
Love the channel and all the help I've gotten over the years from you on Cade. I instantly subbed to your channel here. Thanks again!
Love your channel. As a bike fit nerd, I have studied everything I can on the subject. I have read Phil Burt's Bike Fit book, Andy Pruit's, watched tons of videos by a bike fitter in Colorado (bikefitadvisor). I even took advantage of Phil Burt's online bike fit during COVID. For $60 US, I sent him videos of me on my trainer and then had a 30 minute consult with him. It was kind of a disappointment, as he told me I was basically already in the bike fit window, but he did give me some minor changes to make. When buying a superbike last year, I went to an in-person bike fitter. The only major change he made was to shorten my stem length, which I had previously assumed I would need to do. He also speced 165 mm cranks. He also used CAD to select my new bike. I suppose I can give myself some credit for getting my fit close, but I feel it was still worth it to go to professionals. There is only so much self diagnosis you can do, no matter what your knowledge base. And my new bike fits like a glove! Aside from the above, I am still learning from your videos.
Man who thought crank lengths would be the grit in everyone's gears! After my comment on your last video about sound quality, this video sounds great! Keep up the great work. I get the notification of a new BFJ video and I immediately click on it!!
It might be a bit of back and forth as we have some videos coming which we shot a while back. So different when in a real bike fit scenario
Thank god u changed the channels name, I couldnt remember the last one. Waiting for more content, loving your work!
Hey Bikefit James, good luck tomorrow on your UFC fight against Moicano. I'm rooting for you!
James is my hero. This is great.
This was the best video you've done so far 😂. Debunking bike fit misconceptions could be a regular feature 👍
Great stuff, followed you via Cade since before COVID & I'm looking forward to more! I wanted to insult you after the 'comments are too nice' observation but when hearing common sense, knowledgeable, experienced & passionate arguments over 5 years its just not possible you fool!!
Love your videos, have tried some of your tips they have all worked, ie 165 cranks, narrower bars, cleat location, thank you for your expertise and advice
Digging this video. Blown away by how many people don’t understand the crank length thing.
Awesome. Fun and useful all around the same time. I look forward to the next one :-) cheers
Yup liked this, having discussed finding bike fitters with James during my fit very amusing👍. Oh and bit late but happy birthday.
Thanks for responding 😂. I have to bring my cheap bike in one day. I did get a Retül fit a few years back but I'm not convinced he go the handlebars with right so have been dropping them from the standard 44cm to 42cm (his recommendation), then down to 40cm as the bar tape wears out.
Re: Price. I had a bike fit with Lee at Bicycle on my 2017 Canyon Endurace. I had a big trip (north south Portugal) booked and wasn't 'uncomfortable' on my bike, but I wanted to make sure I could enjoy the trip to the max. Got new shoes, insoles, pedals, spacers, saddle, bars, stem. Cranks from eBay (supply issues). I'd say I ended up spending at least 80% of what my bike was worth at the time, and could have instead bought a pair of flash wheels or a solid bike upgrade. However, honestly it was the best money I've spent. The X-Wide Lakes I have are a game changer, being on the bike feels so natural and comfortable. Coming back home from a 200k day out and feeling fresh is awesome for me, a casual rider in their 40s. Highly recommend it!
Great comments. And yes, i want 5o see more of this.
This was excellent -- thanks, young man (HBD!)
Enjoyed this one James - more please...
LOL! This video is great! The responses to the neg comments are so funny! 🤣
I narrowed my handlebar by 2mm (44->42) and it made the bike a lot more comfortable. I'm still getting numbness in my left hand, but that started way back when I switched to SRAM Force hydraulic levers from my mechanical levers, and I've heard that the ergonomics of the levers themselves has been a problem. Anyway, I love the content; gives me an idea of the questions I should be asking and what I should be thinking about when I look at parts.
You r my hero,love u how u handle the comments..😂❤
Hello from Slovakia, looking forward to see another video like this, really enjoyed it..
All hail the bike fit guru James. And to cap everything he does make me giggle like a schoolgirl when he crucifies some of the less informed amongst us 👍👍👍
Almost better than an extended video about a single subject.
Absolute dream of mine to get a bike fit from James....one day!!
Loved the Video, Still trying to get comfortable, I had a bike fit about 22ish years ago at Sigma, And still use and have the fit data, Although I'm guessing as a near 90kg riding nowadays I look like a sack of spuds in lycra, I wouldn't even mind you filming it, O and mid 50's Cheers Colin
Coming to see you for a fit on Friday. Can't wait to chat about all this. 😊
This was a really interesting video. It's rare that we hear the content creators views on the comments that have been left. Please do it again!
lovely video as always James, thanks!
Fantastic content! James smashing it lately
Now a request: Gravel vs. Road geometry considerations.
I made the mistake of thinking that I could translate the results of my road bike pro-fitting to a gravel bike. OOPS!!! So yea, that was a big fail. What I think I didn't appreciate is that terrain is a constant on the road, and it's a variable on gravel. I'm assuming that the optimal geometry for a road bike will not necessarily translate to a gravel bike. That MAY be the case if you live in an area with luxury class 1 gravel that is well maintained, and doesn't have lots of elevation changes (so less erosion). However, in my area, where a road ride with a lot of climbing might clock in at 70 feet vertical per mile average, that would be considered an "easy" gravel ride, with our gravel rides often clocking in at 100 feet vertical per mile average (I had one that averaged 150 vertical per mile for the first 40 miles.... fortunately the remaining 20 miles were a gradual downhill). Also, smooth luxury gravel isn't common around here. Things tend to be more chunky, so your hand are absorbing a lot of impact. Can you do a video that speaks to some of the special considerations folks need to keep in mind for gravel bikes, and how they might diverge from a typical road geometry? I suspect there are many roadies like myself who are turning to gravel because it's a more peaceful experience (in terms of dealing with traffic) and make incorrect assumptions given that gravel bikes and road bikes look similar.
James! Do a video on taking your fit from a Road Bike to an XC mountain bike. What should one look out for etc???
Liked this kind of video. More of this please. I suffered from cervical impingement so I try to ride a more upright position to avoid my neck supporting my head in a less horizontal way. But at time I felt more relax on the drops than on the hood. I have 20cm spacer below my stem not sure should I lower it down but also worry my weight will fall forward and put a lot of pressure on my hands and shoulder.
Amazing, I literally had beer coming out of my nostrils at 1.29 ‘well….. good for you’ 😂
I prob could do with a bike fit. I had spinal surgery 13 years ago (5 partial removal of lower 5 disks and a circular annular tear sewn up in a 6th vertebrae). Told I would never ride again by my surgeon at the time. even though I did after 5 years of hard post opp rehab.
A few years ago I went from 100% MTB to mainly gravel to now primarily road . My confidence in my own flexibility has stopped me going for anything but an endurance geometry road frame. I would love something a bit more aggressive but unsure my body would cope with the arse in the air and slammed stem position. Although I get knee pain from time to time manage about 5-6k a year on "real riding" outside and Zwift. I still get the occasional back ache but nothing like those dark days of the past. Cheers for the informative vids
Here's one that brings me some confusion. I have two bikes, one indoors on motion rollers, one outdoors. Both bikes are the same frames, same saddle, same bars, same reach and drop, same saddle setback and height... I'm a tad OCD 😁
The only difference between the two is indoors is Ultegra 6800 and outdoors is R8000 (full mechanical, rim brake).
For some reason I always find the indoor bike feeling a touch long while the outdoor bike feels like it fits like a glove. I just feel locked in on the outdoor bike and like something is off indoors.
Regarding cyclists who place their hands on the bars behind the hoods, this was a normal cruising position back in the 1960s - 90s before the current design of brake level hoods. Back in the day, the levers were smaller and the rubber hoods not as massive. Grasping the hoods was a position that was often used for hard climbs (racers didn't have the low gears of modern bikes), but not all the time. Placing hands on the bars behind the hoods may be an indication of too long a reach on a modern bike, but not necessarily on an older bike (which is what I still ride). Check out Figure 20-8 of "The Custom Bicycle" by Michael J. Kolin and Denise de la Rosa to see what I mean. Yes, we've come a long way since 1979 when this was published and I was racing!
For the bike size questions....175cm/5'9 seems to be in the medium size on most bike charts, but watching your vids/cade media, I feel like small would be the better choice. Local shop says stick with the Medium and adjust the stem if its too long. I feel like it would be easier to make the bike larger than smaller. Confused I am.
Were the James's having a giggle when they named their son Bikefit? Jk, jk.
Love your insights man, and you have a very lovely speaking voice. Subscribed!
Love this format!
Keep it up. Really enjoy your content
I have toyed around with the idea of flying from New York for a bike fit. I bet people actually do. 😂
Yes please do this again, especially the head banging on the desk 🤕
Great stuff as usual, James. The ONLY thing I didn't like about it was that you didn't answer my question about indoor training and saddle discomfort. What are the inherent challenges to comfort on an indoor trainer and how can we improve it? Hope you can address that. Thanks!
good one James!
question from me - maybe not necessarily bike fit only - any tips or tricks for position adjustment (even during the ride) to really engage glutes? I find them sometimes very lazy and stubborn which causes quads to work more...
More of these please.......
Great info.. and setting em' straight LoL ! i have to order up some new bars uhhg
James, would it be possible to address the issue of how one's bike fit will change (probably) as the rider ages? Not so much 'less young' riders coming to you for a first proper fit, but what (& when) to consider altering as age affects flexibility & stability, etc.
Thanks for the great work.
Hi James, Apart from the shop based measurements do you also go out for a ride with the victim/ client to see their riding style and basic level of athleticism? I think I'd feel better about paying for that over a shop and lasers style fitting 😄
Hello. Love your content and I'm glad to see you have your own channel now. I was wondering what the easiest way to extend your stance is on the bike. I have tibial tortion in my right knee and so my knee is almost always scraping the top tube. I was wondering if there is a easy way to combat this. Thanks
Hi James,
As a fellow bike fitter, I’ve found your videos, along with the content on the CADE MEDIA channel, incredibly insightful and valuable for my own practice-so thank you for that!
I’ve got a question for you: When BikeFit James is selecting a new bike, do you get a fit from a colleague at BICYCLE, or do you handle the fitting yourself?
(I'm already LIKED and SUBSCRIBED)
Nah just guess work
The trend of saddle heights often being too high in the last 10-15years is partly because in the 80s & 90s it was common for club level riders to have their saddles a little low and be told so (but the pendulum has swung the other way)
There were also two riding styles: toe down in a more TT position; heel down. Toe down led to higher saddles. Remember handlebars and stems were higher in relation to saddle (see Eddy Merckx et al) with deeper drops. In my 20s, in 1970s, riding mostly solo, I had the saddle high and rode toe down reaching as far forward as possible, even had forearms on the bar top and held the brake cable (no hidden cables then!)
@@cuebjI think the toe down sweep was in part to do with the pedals at the time, it felt better with clips (straps) to push into the pedal.
Hey James love the vids but I would love to see you fit a junior racer. I myself am a junior and had a bike fit and loved the improvement. I would like to see your method for both a racer and a junior. Keep up the sick content!
I've got a milestone birthday coming up in a couple of years (50th). I love my current fit on my Bianchi, but I'd really like to get fitted whilst simultaneously shopping for a bike to take me through my next decade of riding. How far out would one need to plan to book a fitting during the summer of 2027?
James, what a guy.
Loved this 🤣. The desk face plant is the only response to some people. TH-cam is responsible for creating armchair experts in just about every profession, including bike fitting now it seems.
I really enjoy your content. I’m heavily debating coming to that side of the world to see you and get a fit, my biggest concern is that if I do and there’s a problem then I would have to fly all the way back there. Either way. Keep up the good work. If your ever in the east coast of the US let me know, I’ll have some work for you. 😆
Why don't you make it a vacation, bring your bike, and do some riding after the bike fit ?
Everyone will be trying to get into these responding to vids now.
@@Cycle.every.day. hope so!
This channel is awesome! Would you ever consider coming to the states and maybe opening a bike fit branch out here????
Love the comment at the end about handlebar width. As a slim guy I've gone from 42cm C-to-C to 40 to just ordered 38cm, which size seems less widely available (especially with flared drops). Do you find the market provides a good selection of handlebar shapes and sizes for your customers' requirements?
James, if you are truly between two frame sizes, when do you choose the smaller or the larger of the two, and why? Is it better to have a smaller frame with a longer stem so you are not cramped, or a larger frame with a smaller stem so you are not stretched out? Which situations would warrant one over the other?
James, can we just be mates? Uh, asking for a friend. Never mind.
You'd probably say my bike is too small for me lol
Got a pretty long (100mm if I remember) stem with a good bit of rise and all the spacers I could fit on it too lol
That being said I haven't had any issues of feeling cramped or anything since adding the spacers and stem and I've no toe overlap so maybe it's alright 🤷🏻♀️
I secretly call my fitter a “bike-iatrist” because when I finally saw him it fixed so much pain and the problems I thought I had were in fact not.
I am having a difficult time riding on the hoods, one arm is slightly longer than the other. A cyclist in our group said I should try a shorter stem and then offset the right hood/lever back as to accommodate this oddity?
I wouldn’t do the offset thing personally (unless extreme circumstances required it) but a reduction in reach could certainly help
You often recommend a very narrow handlebar for women. It seems to me that an overly narrow handlebar could be somewhat dangerous, especially for women, as it requires more effort to control (especially in hazardous situations), and it's also harder to handle when standing on the pedals with a narrow bar. What do you think about this?
I personally have narrow shoulders and ride with a 360mm handlebar, and even I sometimes feel discomfort for the reasons mentioned above. I'm considering switching back to a 400mm or at least a 380mm handlebar
Ohhh... I know I'm late to this party, but I found something, I think, that I never considered EVER before.
So, previous set up, with 100mm stem. Decided to check if also me, I use too long stem. 80mm kicking around, off old goes, in new comes.
... and it sucks. Really badly... Took me 3 or 4 rides to figure out what was that bad. My saddle. It was too high. Dropped it by around 5mm and all of the sudden good again.
Soooo... Am I imagining things or there is a correlation between stem length and saddle height?
Cheers!
I.
Hi James. When you install G8 insole to Lake CX238 shoe, would you remove heel pad that supposed to protect insole from heel rubber bolt? G8 heel section is quite flat so I find it doesn't really contact to the bolt. Also if I use heel wedge it just replaces the heel pad.
I usually throw those stupid heel pads in the bin - they have no use other than to protect the screws that adhere the heel protector on the outside of the sole
165mm been a game changer for me. 5 foot 7. Smoother and more comfortable. My cadence isn’t really that much higher.
I've measured up my feet and ordered a "true to size" (44)pair of MXZ176 Lakes for my gravel bike. Bike (Vitus Substance VRS) is size "S" and there isn't a lot of room for error on toe overlap from the frame geometry(The lower underslung bottle cage mounts are cosmetic, couldn't get a cage and 500ml bottle in there without hitting the wheel).
I'm currently using Shimano in a ridiculous size 46 when I should be a 44 so hopefully this may help(and I won't hopefully need the cleats slammed fully back which on 46's makes things even worse)
James, could you give some fit advices for cyclists who are not super fit and does not fit into the "average geo"?
I'm currently on a 76 effective STA due to my short femur (74 PBH), and lean forwarded a lot.
Could you please discuss how femur/tibia ratio affect how Fore (~ steep effective STA) vs Alt (~slack effective STA) the saddle should be? And how to know if the posture is upright vs low enough for one?
Thanks a lot!