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QUICKIE - Mercedes W211 AIRMatic 101 - How it kinda works and what goes wrong..
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ค. 2022
- I ramble at moderate length on my interpretation of the Mercedes Airmatic system found in S and E class Mercs of the era. R class and M Class cars were also very similar.
#mercedestech #mercedes #airmatic #eclasse #eclass #e500
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Thanks for the explenation and sharing of your troubles! I just bought a 320 S211 with 285.000 miles and i'm looking into this system now, having a leek, rear right, so the diagram of your software is realy helpfull. The way MB put the lines in the car is so cheap en badly done, rubbing on steel and wheelwells!
😢having trouble with my E500 2004….changed the rear right still linking,drops overnight,as soon as I start the vehicle it lifts with no problem headache 😮
Did you change the spring, large black hose and the aluminum tank, re-use the large hose and tank, or replace spring/tank combo with a tank delete? The tanks like to leak around the corroded nipple. Replace the airline feed, too.
@@TheCarFarm 🙏🏾4 replying…..I changed the bag and use the new air connector tube brass fitting.
Ben, just ran across your video. Well done! Great explanation of the system. I bought a low milage 2005 E500 4Matic w/ Airmatic when it was 7 years old (only had 22k miles). It has since rolled 105k (not bad for a 18 year vehicle). I'm starting to experience the rear sag. Used to be if it sat for 2 weeks you'd see it, now it's more like two days (it's worse when it's cold outside and it's been cold lately). I found a short on one of the solenoid wires on the pump; I soldered that wire and buried it in heatsink tubing. Seems to be repaired. While I had it out I also rebuilt the motor (just did the cheap piston ring rebuild). I’ve found a slow, and I mean slow leak at the air connector on the front left strut. What’s the best way to repair that? Do you have a part number for the brass connector? Should I try tightening it or is that the kiss of death? I’m not seeing leaks at the right strut, pump or valve block connections (haven't torn into the trunk yet to check the tank). I’m sure the rear is leaking somewhere but I’ve sprayed soapy water on everything and can’t seem to find it. Can’t hear it either. What’s the best way to tell if it’s the rear air-springs (airbags) or rear reserve tanks are leaking? I’m about to spring for Arnott replacements but I’d like to be sure I’ve found the leaks before I do. BTW, the Arnott A2724 replacements are now $321.79 on Rockauto. Is there a cheaper place to get them?
BTW, this is my lame video of my center speaker repair on the same car... th-cam.com/video/fzxc6NK9mKg/w-d-xo.html
I think the price has come way down on all of them so I don't complain, but the elasticity of the various units are not the same (weaker) than the OEM and affect the ride. I have found firestone sleeves (bags), but don't have a way to crimp the rings (yet) to 'rebuild' my own. But if you have the slow sag, I would look at the little pillow tanks and the 5/8" hose from the springs. If you're in a salty area, the aluminum nipples will corrode under the rubber hose. You can remove them without dropping the rear member. I adapted an air gun and valve setup to pressure the tank (with most nipple exposed), and then threw them in my pond to find the leaks. Brian welded (tig'd) them up and I reinstalled. The brass compression fittings you can find on Amazon (search for brass ferrule kit). I think they're 4mm, maybe 6 - I don't remember. They're kind of standard on aftermarket air suspension kits. I used some push connectors for splicing broken lines before I replaced the lines (also bought on amazon). If you have slack, you can trim the fitting and use a new ferrule and re-install. Otherwise, give it a turn and see if it stops.
Ah, control arms and ball joints and links on the 4MATIC... pack a lunch and bring a friend.
Is bypassing the tank is the back detrimental?
It seems its there for a reason for constant air pressure and it seems to allow air to spill into it for some of the fancy airmatic features, using the arnotts with the bypass seems to use the airbag as the air tank then with no ability to allow quick deflating?
im no expert with air bags but wanting to do the right thing and not the 20 year old E class dodgy repair, I have a suspected air leak thats just started the last few days which I will monitor closely
Arrnotts bag would seem to be under a lot more constant pressure being used as an air tank/ air bag
like I said I am very fresh to how air systems work and just want to do the right thing and understand more
In the video, I think I talk about tanks connected right to the air springs - the Arnotts do away with those. In the trunk is a larger main tank.
When you have the stock 'pillow tanks' on the springs, that air volume is combined with the air volume in the bellows during comfort mode - this additional volume does in fact change the spring rate. Arnotts spring rates therefor cannot be the same as OEM that retains the tanks. But on the OEM, the large rubber hose to the spring tanks can leak at the clamp, or corrode - this has been an issue on mine, repeatedly - not always the air spring itself.
But yes, you *can bypass or cork of the 3/4" (maybe 5/8") nipple on the air spring and bypass the pillow tanks. Do not use a cooling system cap, it's not rated for the ~150psi.
would there be much of a performance loss or difference with bypassing those tanks in the rear?
I was considering getting Arnott's but they are pretty pricey when you can literally just plug the bag also, Which I have seen people do online.
The larger main tank in the trunk is used as the compressors main air storage?
@@TheCarFarm
@@HTES962 You can bypass the little pillow tanks as I mentioned above - you just have to use something that'll take at least 150psi.
Yes, the 1 gallon or so tank in the trunk is the main tank - you need that.
I just became a proud owner of 270cdi from 03' that was equipped with airmatic, unfortunately somewhere down the line it was converted to classic suspension but bunch of parts of the air suspension remain (valve block, compressor, air lines, reservoir in the back). Do you reckon it can be put back together? Its still in the computer, every time I put the key in ignition it spits out airmatic error, visit workshop but the error is in normal text, not the red colored one. I absolutely love the w211, it has a lot of options that puts today cars at shame.
Wow - they went through the trouble of removing it, and then not de-coding it so you wouldn't have any messages? Of course you could slap it back in there. I've noticed my knock-off struts and bags don't ride the same it did as it was new. I would replace the white plastic feed lines - they'll leak anywhere they've rubbed on something and you'll never find it. Compressors are cheap. I'd argue valve blocks are only replaced out of cover-your-butt-and-throw-parts-at-it scenarios, unless external environmental factors have taken their toll. It's not terribly complicated and most aftermarket air-ride systems work exactly the same way; however these cars do add in the dynamic ride control (fancy struts and shocks) with accelerometers on the strut towers. Also, the OEM rear spring have external reservoirs for added air capacity that gives I think a smoother cushion. The replacement airnots do not have those reservoirs - and guess what? That's where mine all failed - the little aluminum takes and/or the larger hose from the spring to those little tanks.
@@TheCarFarm thanks for a quick reply :) So you recommend to replace all plastic air lines just to be safe and for springs to go with airnot replacement so it would be leak free. I saw those rear reservoirs and had no idea they were from airmatic. Thanks for the info, you got yourself a new sub :)
I had an e500 for 4 years and never replaced anything I must be lucky I guess
Right - the first 4 years were nice.
What is the program wich you are looking this picture?
That's the Xentry - part of the Mercedes Star Diagnosis Assistance System (DAS).