Review of the Fanatec CSL Load Cell Kit Mod from 3DRap. Get yours here: www.3drap.it/product/fanatec-... 0:00 Intro 2:25 Testing 6:28 Conclusion #Fanatec #SimRacing #3DRap
To those struggling to remove the elastomers, grab two Zipties, loop one on each end (do not loop around the LC sensor) and push down on your brake pedal with one hand and once you've gone down as much as you can, hold on to the zipties and let go of the pedal. Was impossible for me to remove mine but this took literally 3 seconds and incredibly easy. Just heads up, you will most likely have parts flying right off so maybe put a towel or something to block parts from flying before you do... took me 20 min to find one of the small rings.
This video was just what I needed!! I saw these elastomers pop up on a forum a few weeks ago and I’ve been wondering how they perform. Just like you and a few of your commenters, I find the LC pedal to be too stiff. I’ve formed this opinion with real life racing car experience, this isn’t just some random opinion based purely on preference. That being said, thanks so much for making this super informative video. I’ll be placing my order for a set soon! If there’s a comment section on the order page, I’ll let them know you sent me. Thanks again and cheers from the US!
Thank you for your review! I took advantage of the Easter sale and used an online discount code I found. I ordered (2) hybrid sets and a pair of socks. I figure that way, I have everything I need to customize the feel in any setup.
Purchased the linear..not sure what i received as the packaging didnt state the model but i for me it feels much better. Definitely help my trail braking with the added travel. Gives the break more of a street car feel. Feels similar to my focus rs.. 15mm of travel then stiffens up. I would get the progressive if you only want a bit of uptake
Yes I have taken my pedal off as well and I do not like it. I'm so happy you come with this video so I can make you some use of its again great video ☺️
Took a second off my best times in ACC on Nurburgring and Spa within the first session running this over the stock elastomers. Bought the hybrid kit but I'm just using the progressive piece in it now.
Nice, I was faster with the original softer pedal compared to the stock load cell but I now think I'm going to be faster with this new setup. I'm definitely enjoying it the most and it now feels more like brake pedals I'm use to 👍
Too all the people finding the pedal to stiff... try it. drive 1-2 days and get a feeling for it. At first i thought its unusable. After a few days i absolutely love them. You will get muscle memory for each corner and always find the best pressure point. Its works like a charm... + it will get a bit softer. I also started driving with shoes on. Which give a nice feeling for the stiff pedal. iam at 75% Breaking Force in a cheap seat and it works great.
I think people are just very used to very soft pedals, so when trying a hard pedal its very alien to them. It took me some getting used to, but now I run a Rock solid pedal with very little movement at all and love it.
That's good you are liking the stock setup 👍 I ran with the stock load cell kit for a couple more weeks after I reviewed them. Although they softend a little I just couldn't get on with them. At a comfortable amount of brake force (at 65% for me) I was getting about 25mm of pedal travel which I found too short for trail braking. In contrast the standard none load cell is very soft and has 70mm of travel. This moded setup gives me 40mm of travel (enough for me to trail brake) with just the right amount of brake force, so I am now happy with it.
@@HamVR I don’t understand why you need pedal travel for trail braking since the load cell measures force, not pedal travel. Not saying your opinion is wrong. I understand we’re all different. But I was able to get used to the stock load cell brake just fine.
@@halffulltome Because it's hard as fuck to release the last part of the pedal without either keeping it pressed down too hard or releasing altogether.
@@masssssy this. having a spot in the travel that in some way correlates to the force you’re putting in helps. sure your brake booster reacts on force not travel but your cars brake pedal has 3x the travel of this pedal.
The CSL loadcell setup is actually softer than the mod I used to run on my T3PA pedals so I have had to take some time to adjust to the travel in the Fanatec offering from the other perspective.
Hey. I had similar issue and I don't even have a rig. So the loadcell brake was quite useless as the pedals moved like crazy. I have tried it to run with 10% of brake force and it was driveable but with no pedal movement. What I did was I took the elastomers out and put some leftover brake spring from my Thrustmaster T3PA Pro pedals and after this I could use the pedal with around 25-30 percent of brake force with almost full pedal movement. It was not perfect so I have bought some springs with various properties and now I have a combination of 2 springs on my loadcell pedal. Cheap and works for me and I believe it could work for others aswell.
I made a makeshift solution by swapping out two of the original elastomers with the foam from the standard brake (non-loadcell) and a cutout of the foam from the packaging (drill a hole that the rod can go through). I guess this would qualify as a progressive brake force. If you do this remember to turn on/off your wheelbase to recalibrate after the reconfiguration. Please also pay attention to the packaging foam which can get quite soft fast and might need some additional foam at a later time. At least this solution should work for most people while trying out some softer configurations.
If I had the travel I had in your stock pedal I’d probably be happy. I get like 10mm travel at like 100% load it’s crazy. Had my eye on this kit thanks for the vid! Now to decide which ones to pick up lol
Same here, I get barely any travel, pushing as hard as I can! Maybe I shouldn't have skipped leg day 😂. I know it's based on pressure but some travel would be nice. Waiting on hybrid kit from 3Drap.
Most of the people who complain about the LC kit of Fanatec haven't used them constantly for 1-2 weeks or even more imo. It is of course going to be LOT difficult then a fricking G29 pedal which has the max travel. Just get a sturdy rig, sit there and press the brakes/play the damn game without constantly focusing on your braking. Plus, Fanatec gives you the option to adjust the braking force if you have a LC kit. Right now I am using it at 90/100 and yeah I have to press powerfully, but I can see my friends being comfortable around 55s and 60s. Just build your way up to 80+ and trust me, it can be a difficult process but it is definitely worth it. I am not here to talk shit about the 3D RAP mod. They are an alright company, and I had multiple mods for my G29 some worked, some didn't however, their direction and thinking process is correct. You shouldn't think a 3D Printed mod can satisfy you when it comes to plastic materials, they eventually crack and be gone. Anyways, before purchasing such mods to your Fanatec pedals, just use the original like it is your only way to go. Again, trust me that the experience will get better daily. Good luck with driving and don't ever forget, have fun!
Thanks for this great video. Really detailed tests that gives us a good idea what we'll get for the extra time/money to spend. However may I know why you go with full linear instead of hybrid at the end? Is it purely because of the extra travel?
Travel and stiffness. For me the full linear felt the closest to a sports car (not race car) pedal. I'm using a reclining car seat (Sparco R100) and I find the more stiff the pedal, the more likely the seat flexes back on heavy braking. I also prefer slightly softer pedal for longer race sessions. The standard brake pedal I found way too soft with way too much travel. The full linear setup felt in the middle of the standard brake pedal and the standard load cell kit brake pedal.
Ideally set your Brake Force to what's comfortable (irrespective of pedal stiffness). That's going to be your maximum force for you personally. This is not affected by spring/elastomer softness as the load cell always accepts the same force to give the same output - it does not "see" the spring soft/hardness. Then dial in the spring rate - - ideally pretty stiff so there's very little travel - a little travel though, is useful to modulate a little easier. For example around 10mm travel works for me. However longer/softer travel is just compressing a spring over time to achieve a given braking force - this will slow down your braking and coming off of the brakes, meaning slower lap times overall. I believe most people trying their first Loadcell simply need longer to adjust to the new style of driving. Its hard at first, but try to wipe your memory of previous inferior pedal set braking. Then start from scratch with the loadcell (after setting up endzones, and Brake Force amounts!). Can take a few sessions, even a couple of weeks to really get settled but you WILL be faster and more consistent quickly! Overall - have fun either way.
I know a lot of people use them for GT style racing, but what are your thoughts on using LC for Touge/Mt racing in street style cars? I just got LC today and I haven't set it up yet but Im looking forward to using them, and wondering if I should get the LC kit mod or not
I got the Fanatec load cell brake coming from a Logitech setup. At first I thought it was horrible. Way too stiff and I felt like I couldn’t control it. After a week or less I got used to it and I’m faster than ever. I don’t have any desire for a softer/longer travel and no problem trail braking.
Heel & toe is impossible with these. And they simply aren’t realistic and realistic is what we are looking for in a simulator. The brake in a real car moves this one fucking doesn’t.
I am brand new to load cells. I got my first one only a few days ago. Must admit I am intrigued I am planning on getting the 8nm next but this is making me wonder if I should try these first.
Your CSL loadcell has so much more travel than mine even as stock. I might have to try something like this, my pedal basically feels like it doesn't move whatsoever. It makes it hard to trail brake - when I watch the pedal inputs in the replay I can see that I am doing it, but as I'm racing I can't really tell if I'm lifting off enough because the pedal stays dead still.
That's the exact problem I had regarding trail braking. It took a lot of force to get the original elastomers to 40mm (I was leaning back in my seat in order to do it), Also sat in my racing seat looking at the pedal travel, it looks a lot less from that perspective than it does than a camera over the pedal.
I just brought mine and I feel like I only get 5mm and it’s at full strength I just want about 15 20mm more just to have a bit of squishyness in my peddle. But can’t find anywhere on you tube to know how to achieve this without spending more money to get that feel
@@danielpryor1414 how is it now after a few weeks? And did you lower force to get more travel? I’m considering to buy the pedal set but I read this ‘problem’ everywhere so I’m not sure I want such less travel.
@@Rebuu- I saw on an other u tube clip that on the old brake pedal there is a bit of foam you can take out of it and take out the black rubber bits off the loadcell and place the foam in to the loadcell and play around to what you feel is best. it does feel a lot better if I find where I read it I’ll definitely let you know
UPDATE: So after almost 4 months use I thought I would give a brief update. The two linear elastomers have held up well, however I now feel the initial travel is a bit softer than I remember. This could be the elastomers softning up or I've just got use to them. It doesn't spring back as much as I remember it. I have since switched to the two progressive elastomers which now feel good to me and also feel softer than I remember in this video. It's possible that receiving end of the pedal where the loadcell sensor is (a U shape bit of metal) has flexed/bent over time meaning the space where the elastomer sits has got bigger over time. Also, if you haven't bought the Fanatec Load Cell kit yet, the 3DRap Brake Pro Kit for the standard brake pedal is a very good alternative mod th-cam.com/video/aW3A0gmgaOk/w-d-xo.html
Thx for the video. Thats great. Would you say the fully linear setup is softer from the start on? I´m having trouble with light braking and need some softer start on the breaks.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Nice, I finally bit the bullet on a DD pro with a load cell and booster for my second racing setup, my TLCM load cells were great with the TG2 thrustmaster, was worried about the fanatec’s as a few people have said they were too stilff👍
New to Sim Racing, I’ve got the DD Pro set up with the LC. I’d like to find a balance between having a brake that mixes a real car and a racing car. I’m not a pro racer so I have no experience with a load cell set up but I’d like to buy one of these mods that will allow me to benefit from using a load cell whilst still having some travel. I’m thinking progressive or hybrid. If I had more funds I’d buy all of them to try out to see which I like best but I don’t. Hoping some of you have some advice and perhaps used them yourselves. Cheers.
Thanka for the review. In an ideal world we will have the entire package as you had and select the best fit. 30euro is not a small price for something that could potentialy leave you half way to the perfect combination. I M getting slightly confused by people sayint that LC by defalt should be like hitting the wall and if there is too much travel it is basicly better to play with the stock brake. From your experience with full linear mod and all the travel you have is there any improvment compared to the times you achive with the stock foam brake.
Hi, regarding lap times I don't know yet as I've been trying all the new cup cars in ACC which I don't what my best lap times are yet. I can say I do feel more confident with this brake setup and I'm enjoying using it more than the original brake.
in your video you can clearly see that you can press the original pedal 4cm down. that's ok and would be correct. the point why a lot of people are dissatisfied is that the newer deliveries of the pedal are much stiffer. it is impossible to press the pedal more than 1 cm. for me the pedal was not usable in my rig. the pedal travel was way too short. with the least BRF i get ca. 0,5cm pedal travel to achieve maximum braking effect, and with max BRF (full 65 kg pressure) ca. 1cm. so i contacted 3DRap and gave them the idea to make a mod kit for this pedal. ....in the meantime i had developed my own DIY solution.
Interesting that your Load Cell Kit pedal seems excessively stiff compared to my stock one. The Fanatec website still states they ship with “Heavy-duty elastomer stack with 65 Shore hardness” so I am going to assume it’s the same compound they have been sending out from day one. If it has changed then Fanatec really need to update their website, and this is why I make the point in the video that they should provide more data about the operating range. If your rig is in a cold garage at say 10c, the elastomer could be much stiffer than running at say 20c.
@@HamVR ...i'm not the only one. you can look in the fanatec forum (different threads). meanwhile, many people have the problem that the pedal travel at maximum power is less than 1 cm.
@@photoobsession I do wonder how many of users have actually measured this with a camera and a measuring guide. Sat in my seat looking down at the pedal, 40mm of pedal travel looks nowhere near that amount so it's very hard to judge by eye. Also when you first setup new pedals, the max pedal travel of the accelerator and clutch is autocalibrated by the maximium detected value. The load cell might follow a similar calibration system (I don't 100% know) so if you are only able to depress the loadcell 10mm that will be 100% brake force until you exceed that amount by braking harder. In the video I probaly make the original elastomer setup look easy to reach 100% brake force, where in fact I have to lean back in my seat to the point that it creeks. It's quite comical the amount of force required to max the pedal out with the standard elastomers.
@@HamVR ...i measured it with a ruler, had opened the fanatec control panel and set the braking power to maximum. then i put my whole body weight on the pedal. when i reach 1 cm of pedal travel, the bar in the control panel increases to 100% braking effect. with the setting of minimum braking force, the bar reaches 100% braking effect after about 0.5 cm of pedal travel. for me, it is not the subjective feeling that counts, but how long the real pedal travel is actually covered to reach 100% braking effect. and 0.5 to 1 cm is definitely not enough for me. controlled and accurate trail braking was impossible for me. so i modified the pedal with a steel spring and a rubber made of natural latex material. well it works for me.
@@photoobsession My pedal is the same way. When you see this video and other youtuber's they clearly have way more travel available. I have gotten used to it, but I still think I will go this route with custom elastomers.
Thanks for making this video, should really help if I eventually buy new kit this year. I would agree with your choice looking at the sweet spot of travel and firmness although I haven't used these pedals. I'd go with the sports car feel, firm near the end but easier to get there. It's surprising Fanatec don't have the bases covered in adjustment but perhaps it would cost more than 3drap anyway and Fanatec's customer service seems pretty poor.
Thanks for your comment. The original none load cell pedal felt unrealistically soft to me, but was easy to use for long racing sessions. The standard setup load cell was at the other end of the spectrum and I struggled to trail brake with it. I've driven sports cars in real life so this setup felt the most familiar to me and also comfortable. My elastomer choice won't be for everyone, but it's great there's now options to suit different tastes.
At about 3:00 you changed from orginal LC (I have one) to the modification. What looks like the original THICK black coil the standard LC uses, is combined with the mod's yellow insert. How much of the original black spring is kept, and HOW is the installation effected? Thanks. Great video! EDIT: I bought 2 x linear inserts, as you suggested :-)
Hi from the original setup you will remove the small inner elastomers but you will want to retain some of the larger plastic washer that seperate them, to re-use them to seperate the new 3DRap elastomers.
Hey Ham VR, how have those small replacement rings held up over time? Unfortunately, my stock plastic ones cracked while swapping springs/elastomers, and these seem to be the only replacements available. However, I feel like any sort of soft rubber material wouldn't be good in that particular spot, since it undergoes rotational friction under heavy load, and rubber doesn't slide well.
Thanks for this video. I just ordered 1 linear and 1 progressive kit. I hope using that combo will be right for me. I live in MN, in the US. I’m curious how long shipping will take…
I bought it for my Elite v2. But I can't find a picture or video of the Elite V2 anywhere. The elastometer is thicker than the original ones. Or do you then have to remove the spring?
My new load cell is trail braking on its own ,ie going down the straight and I can see on the brake bar indicator the brake us acting like I'm pressing on the pedal, really annoying . Even setting dead zone to 10% I finished a race and lost out loads as I checked in calibration the brake was now pressing down at 26% . I've tried to speak to fanatec customer service but they are usless , any idea how I can fix this phantom brake preassue ,
There should be an option in the Fantec app to re-calibrate the pedals. Also double check you do not have any magnetic fields (or power cables) too close to the load cell. If that doesn't work it could be your loadcell is faulty. You could try the pedals connected direct to your PC or Wheelbase (but not both at the same time!) and see if either works. If it is faulty, you can work around it in your game by adding a small amount of dead zone until you get a replacement.
I'm not sure I guess it would depend on the diameter of the rod that goes through the middle. If the elastomer hole is too big it might rotate when being compressed. I think there are other mod parts available for the older CSL pedals.
I used these on my old CSL Elites. They use one more elastomer then the new pedals you still need to use one of the original elastomer. Just take away the sponge piece and it works well
If you buy the standard brake and accelerator then will also need to the Clubsport USB adaptor. If you buy CSL Load Cell Kit version, it has a builtin USB port to connect direct to the PC. So yes can use these pedals with other wheelbases, connecting them directly to the PC.
Yes 3DRap also made some accelerator and clutch mods. They also made a standard brake pedal mod, which is probably one of their best upgrades. I have video for that too.
All the inserts (progressive and linear) make the standard pedal softer. Progressive starts off soft and gets progressively harder. Linear is soft/same throughout and is softer than progressive. Fully means two of the same insert.
When I installed my linear setup I didn’t unplug or make any changes to the brake force. Now i’m having trouble getting the pedal to work at 100% force. Did you unplug or set force to 100% in Fanatec control panel before installing? I’m not getting much help from 3drap on this and the instruction video wasn’t the best.
All pedals should auto calibrate when you turn your wheelbase on. When you fully press the pedal it will auto set the max travel to 100%. If you exceed that travel on a subsequent press, it will be the new 100%
@@HamVR interesting. I’m going to try some things out. basically when i set my full linear setup to BRF 100% no matter how hard i press the pedal won’t reach full brake force. It only goes to about 50% braking. I think i might need to set BRF to 100, unplug and reset.
update - turned wheel on. set brf to max. power off. unplugged. installed full progressive. feels great. linear was a little too soft. i like this setup better. also I can get to 100% now on brf max.
You get way more travel out of your stock load cel than me! Mine has maybe a CM of travel. Gotta buy the replacements! Unfortunately they are $50 in the US.
Yes. They seem to work fine. They sit a little wider then the stock elastomers. You will also need to use at least one original elastomer as they use 1 more then the new CSL LC. Don't try it with the sponge piece as the travel will be too much. I use x1 progressive with the original elastomers and it feels pretty good
See the updated pined comment at the top. One of linears actually split. I'm now on two progressive elastomers. I think the pedal has in general loosened up over time, regardless of elastomer, as in the receiving end of the load cell pedal has maybe bent/flexed. I'm happy with it for now with two progressives.
I just ordered the load cell kit, and the Fanatec orders says, preorder till May 2. Are they selling that well, and sold out, or is Fanatec looking at feedback about the stiffness issues with the load cell?
I hated the standard once, took me about 3 weeks to get used to, now i'm loving it, because its all in my musclememory. I fully understand why most people don't like it, but if you stick with it, you'll be fine in a month, depending how much you play.
I'm finding that my experience, too. LOATHED the OOB loadcell. After a week and a half,getting more used to it. Far too stiff as standard what were they thinking?
How much travel you have in your pedal? i got mine yesterday and it barely move, only like 0,5cm , is this a product defect or why does it barely move? in this video the standard original brake is not as stiff as mine..... did fanatec change something here?👀 thanks for your answer! best regards!
@@dani-striker-9670 it'll get a bit softer over time , its not a defect, they aimed for this because its simular in a racing car. Stick with it, you'll get better at braking!
For me, including shipping, for me to get the CSL pedals and these elastomers it’s about 75% the cost of the clubsport V3 + performance kit. That makes me lean towards the clubsport v3.
It doesn't need fixing. Its about personal preference. For me the LC is too stiff and it would have been nice if they could have included some adjustability. I've been looking for a product like this one
40mm is an insane amount of pedal travel. I think my Heusinklvelds go about that much progressively. You will get used to it. Just like in f1 their brakes barely move 20mm. Your muscles will remember the force /pressure you put under fast action, not the travel.
The Heusinkveld Brake pedal has an adjustable range of 15mm to 85mm. 40mm is towards the middle of that range. heusinkveld.com/support/product-manuals/pedal-selection-guide/
A race car has minimal travel in the brake pedal and that is still not reflected in the stock setup, for reference I am running sprints with less than 20cm of travel and can trail brake with ease, sorry but its a technique thing and not a preference thing, a stiffer pedal will give you faster lap times over a soft one that is proven.
20cm is a ton of travel so assuming you mean 20mm. The problem is that the newer stock don’t even travel 20mm. If it did, I wouldn’t be interested in this mod.
Erm nope. The regular pedal travel is 70mm and is rediculously soft. It is also positional hall sensor based rather than pressure based which the load cell is.
@@HamVR with correct resistance bands on the regular pedals it can get to a lot less than 70mm travel. Similar to the conical mod on thrustsmaster pedals.
Equally real racing cars give you a lot of g-force assistance when braking hard from high speed. I also drive a variety of cars in games from old classics to F1.
WARNING! Well even if 3drap is fixing the stiffness issue, the far Bigger issue is the fact that we can not as advertised safe our settings. Every time i want to race, i have to do all the settings again, all of them. At this effing point i cant memorize nothing since i have to redo all brf settings and specialy min settings again and again. So one day 65 feels nice the other day its 70 and so my brain is always in this sad spot of feeling like hmm i know i set it to 65 always but is 70 not better? or 60? If i would set it once and forget about it i would not have this uhh today this feels nice or that feels nice situation. This product at this point is utter trash. I have not only to spend extra 40-50€ to fixe the hardware, no i also have to deal with a load cell that is inconsistent because i cant have 2 days in a row with same settings. Min BRF has to be reset, the max force % jumps back to 30% every time i restart my Pc no settings are safed. Good luck having good starts in Porsche cup cars races with a cluthch you have to calibrate new again and again. Thorttle min and Max deadzones, well redo again and again every effing day. BUT THE SADEST THING IS: Every reviewer did test this pedals only for one day or only on a pc that is running 24/7 in eff the enviroment mode. Otherwise this issue would have been adressed and Fanatec would have been blamed for false advertisment. As of today it seems like this not saving settings situation is there for 2 or more firmware versions and fanatec knows the issue but still when customers adress it they act like they dont know anything about it. It is frustrating. Maybe there is a solution out there, but i could not find any especialy not in the Fanatec forums that would solve it. For month this product is bwoken and Fanatec still advertises it as a prduct that saves your settings while it dose not do so. Pls adress this issue, test it for yourself with the newest firmware and report back to us if you found a solution or maybe you can as an influencer contact fanatec and find out what the eff is going on, since we as customers get only bs from effatec :(
ye fanatectards are dumb. I had a TGT II with nice addon wheels and solt it for the GT DD Bundle. The rim is garbage, the pedals suck and the base is way too weak in 5nm. SO i had to spend 700 for the bundle + 150 Boostkit + 140 Loadcell + 200 Mclaren wheel + 99 Qr 1. as you can see very expensive when u really are better than Thrustmaster. And even now i have to buy some rubbers for the loadcell for 50 Euro nice :D. Shouldve kept my tgt II with my nice addon wheels and save my money for alcohol and drugs
That's what I'm thinking. He took a load cell and converted it into a regular pedal that's stiffer. With 52mm travel on his final setup, he's reaching full braking before he runs out of travel, COMPLETELY defeating the purpose of a load cell.
The original pedal is unrealistically soft and uses a hall sensor to determine brake position. With this setup I'm still using a pressure based sensor and it still gets progressively stiffer. To me this now feels like a sports car brake rather than a race car brake. The main point is now I have range of stiffness options to adjust as I prefer.
@@moes2168 load cell measures pressure, travel or no travel. The travel just helps to trail-brake when releasing the pressure applied. So no this doesn’t defeat the purpose of it because pressure is still being applied, it’s not like the load cell desire was swapped for a potentiometer or Hall effect sensor. For me with no rig, adding a softer thing makes for a perfect balance between force and a small amount of travel. Don’t forget that Ina real car negative g-force helps you to press the brake even harder, but being stationary that’s not possible 😂. Idk if this made sense but that’s my take on why some people want some travel (including me). However when I get a rig I’m going to use the original elastomers so it’s stiff again.
@good chaps ....the point why a lot of people are dissatisfied is that the newer deliveries of the pedal are much stiffer. for me the pedal was not usable in my rig. the pedal travel was way shorter. with the least BRF i get ca. 0,5cm pedal travel to achieve maximum braking effect, and with max BRF (full 65 kg pressure) ca. 1cm.
@@photoobsession It looks like the newer deliveries of load cells are also frying the gas pedals. My rig is out of action because of this. An awful lot of people have this same issue, and fanatec have very poor tech support. Very disappointing 😭😭
The standard pedal is unrealistically soft and has a much longer travel of 70mm. It is positional hall sensor with a bit of sponge to simulate a load cell progressive pressure feeling. The problem with 'stiff and little travel' is that is open to opinion of how stiff and how short is correct. For me 40mm feels like a good amount of pedal travel, but it was too stiff to reach that. By default there is no stiffness adjustment. A short coming of this Load Cell is it's one size fits all design.
@@HamVR i've used standard one at my friends place. It was really soft. Now i tested his V3s with brake performance kit - very little travel, very stiff. I hope this loadcell is like this too, i really like as stiff and as little travel as possible. Thanks for comment, now i understand what the problem is. Thanks for video.
I might someday upgrade to the Heusinkveld pedals (for PC only race sims) but for now I wanted something that would also plug into the wheelbase directly for PlayStation support for GT7
I just got the CSL LC pedals and that standard LC stiffness is exagerated, to say the least. I have a GT Omega ART cockpit and when i press that damn thing it starts creeking...and the ART is a fairly solid cockpit for the respective price range. I actually regret it now that i paid 200 euros for the LC pedals. I sould have went with the basic 80 euros 2 pedal set, save some money and later on buy the clubsport V3. just p0utting it out there for anyone considerign to buy these pedals with the LC kit. Otherwise the pedals are awesome!
To those struggling to remove the elastomers, grab two Zipties, loop one on each end (do not loop around the LC sensor) and push down on your brake pedal with one hand and once you've gone down as much as you can, hold on to the zipties and let go of the pedal. Was impossible for me to remove mine but this took literally 3 seconds and incredibly easy. Just heads up, you will most likely have parts flying right off so maybe put a towel or something to block parts from flying before you do... took me 20 min to find one of the small rings.
This video was just what I needed!! I saw these elastomers pop up on a forum a few weeks ago and I’ve been wondering how they perform. Just like you and a few of your commenters, I find the LC pedal to be too stiff. I’ve formed this opinion with real life racing car experience, this isn’t just some random opinion based purely on preference. That being said, thanks so much for making this super informative video. I’ll be placing my order for a set soon! If there’s a comment section on the order page, I’ll let them know you sent me. Thanks again and cheers from the US!
Thanks a ton for the video. I've been struggling after switching to the load cell pedal. Just ordered two of the linear elastomers!
Thank you for your review! I took advantage of the Easter sale and used an online discount code I found. I ordered (2) hybrid sets and a pair of socks. I figure that way, I have everything I need to customize the feel in any setup.
Great video, especially after just buying a CSL loadcell. Thanks
bought the linear version of the 3drap, very pleased!
What an excellent review, really useful information.
Great video! I’m in the same situation, I’ll be looking into these for sure!
I've got the hybrid kit and it's so much better, thoroughly recommend it.
Purchased the linear..not sure what i received as the packaging didnt state the model but i for me it feels much better. Definitely help my trail braking with the added travel. Gives the break more of a street car feel. Feels similar to my focus rs.. 15mm of travel then stiffens up. I would get the progressive if you only want a bit of uptake
Yes I have taken my pedal off as well and I do not like it. I'm so happy you come with this video so I can make you some use of its again great video ☺️
Thanks for the review just odered csl pedals have not tried them yet
Took a second off my best times in ACC on Nurburgring and Spa within the first session running this over the stock elastomers. Bought the hybrid kit but I'm just using the progressive piece in it now.
Nice, I was faster with the original softer pedal compared to the stock load cell but I now think I'm going to be faster with this new setup. I'm definitely enjoying it the most and it now feels more like brake pedals I'm use to 👍
I bought the hybrid very happy with them way better than the stock elastomers that come standed. thanks for the video Ham VR.
Too all the people finding the pedal to stiff... try it. drive 1-2 days and get a feeling for it. At first i thought its unusable. After a few days i absolutely love them. You will get muscle memory for each corner and always find the best pressure point. Its works like a charm... + it will get a bit softer. I also started driving with shoes on. Which give a nice feeling for the stiff pedal.
iam at 75% Breaking Force in a cheap seat and it works great.
I think people are just very used to very soft pedals, so when trying a hard pedal its very alien to them.
It took me some getting used to, but now I run a Rock solid pedal with very little movement at all and love it.
That's good you are liking the stock setup 👍 I ran with the stock load cell kit for a couple more weeks after I reviewed them. Although they softend a little I just couldn't get on with them. At a comfortable amount of brake force (at 65% for me) I was getting about 25mm of pedal travel which I found too short for trail braking. In contrast the standard none load cell is very soft and has 70mm of travel. This moded setup gives me 40mm of travel (enough for me to trail brake) with just the right amount of brake force, so I am now happy with it.
@@HamVR I don’t understand why you need pedal travel for trail braking since the load cell measures force, not pedal travel. Not saying your opinion is wrong. I understand we’re all different. But I was able to get used to the stock load cell brake just fine.
@@halffulltome Because it's hard as fuck to release the last part of the pedal without either keeping it pressed down too hard or releasing altogether.
@@masssssy this. having a spot in the travel that in some way correlates to the force you’re putting in helps. sure your brake booster reacts on force not travel but your cars brake pedal has 3x the travel of this pedal.
The CSL loadcell setup is actually softer than the mod I used to run on my T3PA pedals so I have had to take some time to adjust to the travel in the Fanatec offering from the other perspective.
Muchas gracias por tu sinceridad y por decir realmente lo que piensas del producto. Un fuerte abrazo y force feedback y honor compañero 🤗🦾✊💎🏁.
Thank you! I bought a hybrid set!
Hey. I had similar issue and I don't even have a rig. So the loadcell brake was quite useless as the pedals moved like crazy. I have tried it to run with 10% of brake force and it was driveable but with no pedal movement. What I did was I took the elastomers out and put some leftover brake spring from my Thrustmaster T3PA Pro pedals and after this I could use the pedal with around 25-30 percent of brake force with almost full pedal movement. It was not perfect so I have bought some springs with various properties and now I have a combination of 2 springs on my loadcell pedal. Cheap and works for me and I believe it could work for others aswell.
I made a makeshift solution by swapping out two of the original elastomers with the foam from the standard brake (non-loadcell) and a cutout of the foam from the packaging (drill a hole that the rod can go through). I guess this would qualify as a progressive brake force. If you do this remember to turn on/off your wheelbase to recalibrate after the reconfiguration. Please also pay attention to the packaging foam which can get quite soft fast and might need some additional foam at a later time.
At least this solution should work for most people while trying out some softer configurations.
That's pretty inventive GG 😁
I did the same as-well but I’m going to use skateboard bushings to see which feels better.
@@AdzzVR did the skateboard bushings work ?
If I had the travel I had in your stock pedal I’d probably be happy. I get like 10mm travel at like 100% load it’s crazy. Had my eye on this kit thanks for the vid! Now to decide which ones to pick up lol
More than 20mm feels odd to me , 50mm ?? Lol ,its a nightmare
Same here. I did order the 3drap (linear+progressive) and hope it will get better. Maybe I‘ll post a video if this comment gets many likes …
I went with double linear. Still waitin on arrival.
Same here, I get barely any travel, pushing as hard as I can! Maybe I shouldn't have skipped leg day 😂. I know it's based on pressure but some travel would be nice. Waiting on hybrid kit from 3Drap.
@@kimmyshimmi6552 any update on it? I ordered the same thing as you. Curious how well you like it.
Can’t wait for mine to arrive next week. 👊🤪👌
I’ve just installed the full linear. Much better.
I just used the foam from the original brake, drilled through it and used it and the top end of the stack, now I have some travel.
Nice idea 👍
Most of the people who complain about the LC kit of Fanatec haven't used them constantly for 1-2 weeks or even more imo. It is of course going to be LOT difficult then a fricking G29 pedal which has the max travel. Just get a sturdy rig, sit there and press the brakes/play the damn game without constantly focusing on your braking. Plus, Fanatec gives you the option to adjust the braking force if you have a LC kit. Right now I am using it at 90/100 and yeah I have to press powerfully, but I can see my friends being comfortable around 55s and 60s. Just build your way up to 80+ and trust me, it can be a difficult process but it is definitely worth it.
I am not here to talk shit about the 3D RAP mod. They are an alright company, and I had multiple mods for my G29 some worked, some didn't however, their direction and thinking process is correct. You shouldn't think a 3D Printed mod can satisfy you when it comes to plastic materials, they eventually crack and be gone.
Anyways, before purchasing such mods to your Fanatec pedals, just use the original like it is your only way to go. Again, trust me that the experience will get better daily.
Good luck with driving and don't ever forget, have fun!
Fanatec loadcell rubbers have not been consistent, some have been made harder, 2 months on 20mm movement only for full braking.
Thanks for this great video. Really detailed tests that gives us a good idea what we'll get for the extra time/money to spend.
However may I know why you go with full linear instead of hybrid at the end? Is it purely because of the extra travel?
Travel and stiffness. For me the full linear felt the closest to a sports car (not race car) pedal. I'm using a reclining car seat (Sparco R100) and I find the more stiff the pedal, the more likely the seat flexes back on heavy braking. I also prefer slightly softer pedal for longer race sessions. The standard brake pedal I found way too soft with way too much travel. The full linear setup felt in the middle of the standard brake pedal and the standard load cell kit brake pedal.
Ideally set your Brake Force to what's comfortable (irrespective of pedal stiffness). That's going to be your maximum force for you personally.
This is not affected by spring/elastomer softness as the load cell always accepts the same force to give the same output - it does not "see" the spring soft/hardness.
Then dial in the spring rate - - ideally pretty stiff so there's very little travel - a little travel though, is useful to modulate a little easier. For example around 10mm travel works for me.
However longer/softer travel is just compressing a spring over time to achieve a given braking force - this will slow down your braking and coming off of the brakes, meaning slower lap times overall.
I believe most people trying their first Loadcell simply need longer to adjust to the new style of driving. Its hard at first, but try to wipe your memory of previous inferior pedal set braking. Then start from scratch with the loadcell (after setting up endzones, and Brake Force amounts!). Can take a few sessions, even a couple of weeks to really get settled but you WILL be faster and more consistent quickly!
Overall - have fun either way.
I know a lot of people use them for GT style racing, but what are your thoughts on using LC for Touge/Mt racing in street style cars? I just got LC today and I haven't set it up yet but Im looking forward to using them, and wondering if I should get the LC kit mod or not
I got the Fanatec load cell brake coming from a Logitech setup. At first I thought it was horrible. Way too stiff and I felt like I couldn’t control it. After a week or less I got used to it and I’m faster than ever. I don’t have any desire for a softer/longer travel and no problem trail braking.
Heel & toe is impossible with these. And they simply aren’t realistic and realistic is what we are looking for in a simulator. The brake in a real car moves this one fucking doesn’t.
@@vvsarja exactly. Seems like sim racers are looking for what gives them best lap times, even if it means an unrealistically hard pedal lol
I am brand new to load cells. I got my first one only a few days ago. Must admit I am intrigued I am planning on getting the 8nm next but this is making me wonder if I should try these first.
Your CSL loadcell has so much more travel than mine even as stock. I might have to try something like this, my pedal basically feels like it doesn't move whatsoever. It makes it hard to trail brake - when I watch the pedal inputs in the replay I can see that I am doing it, but as I'm racing I can't really tell if I'm lifting off enough because the pedal stays dead still.
That's the exact problem I had regarding trail braking. It took a lot of force to get the original elastomers to 40mm (I was leaning back in my seat in order to do it), Also sat in my racing seat looking at the pedal travel, it looks a lot less from that perspective than it does than a camera over the pedal.
Same problem here. I dissassembled it and removed a small plastic black piece for more travel (not the big rubbers!) but its still not good…
I just brought mine and I feel like I only get 5mm and it’s at full strength I just want about 15 20mm more just to have a bit of squishyness in my peddle. But can’t find anywhere on you tube to know how to achieve this without spending more money to get that feel
@@danielpryor1414 how is it now after a few weeks? And did you lower force to get more travel? I’m considering to buy the pedal set but I read this ‘problem’ everywhere so I’m not sure I want such less travel.
@@Rebuu- I saw on an other u tube clip that on the old brake pedal there is a bit of foam you can take out of it and take out the black rubber bits off the loadcell and place the foam in to the loadcell and play around to what you feel is best. it does feel a lot better if I find where I read it I’ll definitely let you know
UPDATE: So after almost 4 months use I thought I would give a brief update. The two linear elastomers have held up well, however I now feel the initial travel is a bit softer than I remember. This could be the elastomers softning up or I've just got use to them. It doesn't spring back as much as I remember it. I have since switched to the two progressive elastomers which now feel good to me and also feel softer than I remember in this video. It's possible that receiving end of the pedal where the loadcell sensor is (a U shape bit of metal) has flexed/bent over time meaning the space where the elastomer sits has got bigger over time. Also, if you haven't bought the Fanatec Load Cell kit yet, the 3DRap Brake Pro Kit for the standard brake pedal is a very good alternative mod th-cam.com/video/aW3A0gmgaOk/w-d-xo.html
Thx for the video. Thats great. Would you say the fully linear setup is softer from the start on? I´m having trouble with light braking and need some softer start on the breaks.
@@DerMega The linear are the softest. The progressive start soft and get harder (more so than the linear).
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Nice, I finally bit the bullet on a DD pro with a load cell and booster for my second racing setup, my TLCM load cells were great with the TG2 thrustmaster, was worried about the fanatec’s as a few people have said they were too stilff👍
Nice GamingLegends and congrats on the new setup 👍 Yep now being able to adjust these pedals to your own taste is a definite win 😁
New to Sim Racing, I’ve got the DD Pro set up with the LC. I’d like to find a balance between having a brake that mixes a real car and a racing car. I’m not a pro racer so I have no experience with a load cell set up but I’d like to buy one of these mods that will allow me to benefit from using a load cell whilst still having some travel. I’m thinking progressive or hybrid. If I had more funds I’d buy all of them to try out to see which I like best but I don’t. Hoping some of you have some advice and perhaps used them yourselves. Cheers.
do these work with csl elite pedals?
Thanka for the review. In an ideal world we will have the entire package as you had and select the best fit. 30euro is not a small price for something that could potentialy leave you half way to the perfect combination. I M getting slightly confused by people sayint that LC by defalt should be like hitting the wall and if there is too much travel it is basicly better to play with the stock brake. From your experience with full linear mod and all the travel you have is there any improvment compared to the times you achive with the stock foam brake.
Hi, regarding lap times I don't know yet as I've been trying all the new cup cars in ACC which I don't what my best lap times are yet. I can say I do feel more confident with this brake setup and I'm enjoying using it more than the original brake.
in your video you can clearly see that you can press the original pedal 4cm down. that's ok and would be correct. the point why a lot of people are dissatisfied is that the newer deliveries of the pedal are much stiffer. it is impossible to press the pedal more than 1 cm. for me the pedal was not usable in my rig. the pedal travel was way too short. with the least BRF i get ca. 0,5cm pedal travel to achieve maximum braking effect, and with max BRF (full 65 kg pressure) ca. 1cm.
so i contacted 3DRap and gave them the idea to make a mod kit for this pedal. ....in the meantime i had developed my own DIY solution.
Interesting that your Load Cell Kit pedal seems excessively stiff compared to my stock one. The Fanatec website still states they ship with “Heavy-duty elastomer stack with 65 Shore hardness” so I am going to assume it’s the same compound they have been sending out from day one. If it has changed then Fanatec really need to update their website, and this is why I make the point in the video that they should provide more data about the operating range. If your rig is in a cold garage at say 10c, the elastomer could be much stiffer than running at say 20c.
@@HamVR ...i'm not the only one. you can look in the fanatec forum (different threads). meanwhile, many people have the problem that the pedal travel at maximum power is less than 1 cm.
@@photoobsession I do wonder how many of users have actually measured this with a camera and a measuring guide. Sat in my seat looking down at the pedal, 40mm of pedal travel looks nowhere near that amount so it's very hard to judge by eye. Also when you first setup new pedals, the max pedal travel of the accelerator and clutch is autocalibrated by the maximium detected value. The load cell might follow a similar calibration system (I don't 100% know) so if you are only able to depress the loadcell 10mm that will be 100% brake force until you exceed that amount by braking harder. In the video I probaly make the original elastomer setup look easy to reach 100% brake force, where in fact I have to lean back in my seat to the point that it creeks. It's quite comical the amount of force required to max the pedal out with the standard elastomers.
@@HamVR ...i measured it with a ruler, had opened the fanatec control panel and set the braking power to maximum. then i put my whole body weight on the pedal. when i reach 1 cm of pedal travel, the bar in the control panel increases to 100% braking effect. with the setting of minimum braking force, the bar reaches 100% braking effect after about 0.5 cm of pedal travel. for me, it is not the subjective feeling that counts, but how long the real pedal travel is actually covered to reach 100% braking effect. and 0.5 to 1 cm is definitely not enough for me. controlled and accurate trail braking was impossible for me. so i modified the pedal with a steel spring and a rubber made of natural latex material. well it works for me.
@@photoobsession My pedal is the same way. When you see this video and other youtuber's they clearly have way more travel available. I have gotten used to it, but I still think I will go this route with custom elastomers.
Thanks for making this video, should really help if I eventually buy new kit this year. I would agree with your choice looking at the sweet spot of travel and firmness although I haven't used these pedals. I'd go with the sports car feel, firm near the end but easier to get there. It's surprising Fanatec don't have the bases covered in adjustment but perhaps it would cost more than 3drap anyway and Fanatec's customer service seems pretty poor.
Thanks for your comment. The original none load cell pedal felt unrealistically soft to me, but was easy to use for long racing sessions. The standard setup load cell was at the other end of the spectrum and I struggled to trail brake with it. I've driven sports cars in real life so this setup felt the most familiar to me and also comfortable. My elastomer choice won't be for everyone, but it's great there's now options to suit different tastes.
At about 3:00 you changed from orginal LC (I have one) to the modification.
What looks like the original THICK black coil the standard LC uses, is combined with the mod's yellow insert.
How much of the original black spring is kept, and HOW is the installation effected?
Thanks. Great video!
EDIT: I bought 2 x linear inserts, as you suggested :-)
Hi from the original setup you will remove the small inner elastomers but you will want to retain some of the larger plastic washer that seperate them, to re-use them to seperate the new 3DRap elastomers.
@@HamVR Thanks!
Hey Ham VR, how have those small replacement rings held up over time? Unfortunately, my stock plastic ones cracked while swapping springs/elastomers, and these seem to be the only replacements available. However, I feel like any sort of soft rubber material wouldn't be good in that particular spot, since it undergoes rotational friction under heavy load, and rubber doesn't slide well.
Replacement rings have held up fine. No issues yet.
@@HamVR Good to hear, thank you!
Hoping you'll be reviewing the new accelerator mod
Thanks for this video. I just ordered 1 linear and 1 progressive kit. I hope using that combo will be right for me. I live in MN, in the US. I’m curious how long shipping will take…
Well how long did it take?
@@micahlcurtis Wasn’t too bad. Took about a week and a half.
Hey I loved the review. Can you do a review on the options from “bk lab” if you can?
I bought it for my Elite v2.
But I can't find a picture or video of the Elite V2 anywhere.
The elastometer is thicker than the original ones. Or do you then have to remove the spring?
I might just be weird but i like how little travel there is and how stiff it is by default 😂
Very nice! Thank you! This is what i am looking for.
But…website not available?!
i put clutch spring instead of 10$ plastic crap. it need some lubrication but it works great.
My new load cell is trail braking on its own ,ie going down the straight and I can see on the brake bar indicator the brake us acting like I'm pressing on the pedal, really annoying . Even setting dead zone to 10% I finished a race and lost out loads as I checked in calibration the brake was now pressing down at 26% . I've tried to speak to fanatec customer service but they are usless , any idea how I can fix this phantom brake preassue ,
There should be an option in the Fantec app to re-calibrate the pedals. Also double check you do not have any magnetic fields (or power cables) too close to the load cell. If that doesn't work it could be your loadcell is faulty. You could try the pedals connected direct to your PC or Wheelbase (but not both at the same time!) and see if either works. If it is faulty, you can work around it in your game by adding a small amount of dead zone until you get a replacement.
Have you testing the Hybrid mod??
my washers came apart, do you have the order so I can put it back together properly? thanks
Check out 38s in to the video th-cam.com/video/ipHO168Hqr4/w-d-xo.html
This would work with the old csl load cell pedals as well right??
I'm not sure I guess it would depend on the diameter of the rod that goes through the middle. If the elastomer hole is too big it might rotate when being compressed. I think there are other mod parts available for the older CSL pedals.
I used these on my old CSL Elites. They use one more elastomer then the new pedals you still need to use one of the original elastomer. Just take away the sponge piece and it works well
Hi, I wanted to ask if this pedal board can be used with Simagic alp'ha? Thanks.
If you buy the standard brake and accelerator then will also need to the Clubsport USB adaptor. If you buy CSL Load Cell Kit version, it has a builtin USB port to connect direct to the PC. So yes can use these pedals with other wheelbases, connecting them directly to the PC.
@@HamVR Hi, thanks for the quick reply, where can I buy USB Clubsport,you would have a link?
@@HamVR anyway thanks so I don't have to take the brake pedal with the cell
How are they after a year?
Other mods? Since this came out, has there been other mods come out? Thanks for the video.
Yes 3DRap also made some accelerator and clutch mods. They also made a standard brake pedal mod, which is probably one of their best upgrades. I have video for that too.
Is the fully progressive mod make pedal a softer or harder? If it softer, I'll buy it tomorrow :)
All the inserts (progressive and linear) make the standard pedal softer. Progressive starts off soft and gets progressively harder. Linear is soft/same throughout and is softer than progressive. Fully means two of the same insert.
So 2 linear will be the softer ? Or the hybrid? Looking for softer feeling
What do you think about hybrid?
Have a look at my pinned comment at the top. I'm running full progressive now.
When I installed my linear setup I didn’t unplug or make any changes to the brake force. Now i’m having trouble getting the pedal to work at 100% force. Did you unplug or set force to 100% in Fanatec control panel before installing? I’m not getting much help from 3drap on this and the instruction video wasn’t the best.
All pedals should auto calibrate when you turn your wheelbase on. When you fully press the pedal it will auto set the max travel to 100%. If you exceed that travel on a subsequent press, it will be the new 100%
@@HamVR interesting. I’m going to try some things out. basically when i set my full linear setup to BRF 100% no matter how hard i press the pedal won’t reach full brake force. It only goes to about 50% braking. I think i might need to set BRF to 100, unplug and reset.
update - turned wheel on. set brf to max. power off. unplugged. installed full progressive. feels great. linear was a little too soft. i like this setup better. also I can get to 100% now on brf max.
You get way more travel out of your stock load cel than me! Mine has maybe a CM of travel. Gotta buy the replacements! Unfortunately they are $50 in the US.
Has anyone tried these on the old CSL elite load cell?
Yes. They seem to work fine. They sit a little wider then the stock elastomers. You will also need to use at least one original elastomer as they use 1 more then the new CSL LC. Don't try it with the sponge piece as the travel will be too much. I use x1 progressive with the original elastomers and it feels pretty good
How are these holding up? Did they become loose over time? Thanks
The elastomer I settled on in this video split after 6 months. So I then switched to the firmer ones they provided and they are still going fine
@@HamVR Thanks for the reply.
does it also work with the old model?
How is it?
How are the 3D Rap elastomers holding up?
See the updated pined comment at the top. One of linears actually split. I'm now on two progressive elastomers. I think the pedal has in general loosened up over time, regardless of elastomer, as in the receiving end of the load cell pedal has maybe bent/flexed. I'm happy with it for now with two progressives.
Thank you for explaining the voodoo science of breaking. Fanatec hit the brakes on Greed.😝🇨🇦
Io ho preso full linear e per me è la migliore....
Do they ship to U.S.
They ship internationally so I think they do.
@@HamVR thanks. The csl pedal is way too stiff. I dont know how kids will be able to press those.
Ouch abt 48 euros to ship for a piece of rubber. Smh
@@Jmab-rv7jc Yikes!
I just ordered the load cell kit, and the Fanatec orders says, preorder till May 2. Are they selling that well, and sold out, or is Fanatec looking at feedback about the stiffness issues with the load cell?
They're sold out of almost everything at the moment
Good to have options, but IMO too expensive. The material (TPU) costs roughly 30 € per kilo and likely about 30 min. print-time per piece.
I hated the standard once, took me about 3 weeks to get used to, now i'm loving it, because its all in my musclememory.
I fully understand why most people don't like it, but if you stick with it, you'll be fine in a month, depending how much you play.
I'm finding that my experience, too. LOATHED the OOB loadcell. After a week and a half,getting more used to it.
Far too stiff as standard what were they thinking?
How much travel you have in your pedal?
i got mine yesterday and it barely move, only like 0,5cm , is this a product defect or why does it barely move?
in this video the standard original brake is not as stiff as mine..... did fanatec change something here?👀
thanks for your answer!
best regards!
@@dani-striker-9670 it'll get a bit softer over time , its not a defect, they aimed for this because its simular in a racing car. Stick with it, you'll get better at braking!
For me, including shipping, for me to get the CSL pedals and these elastomers it’s about 75% the cost of the clubsport V3 + performance kit.
That makes me lean towards the clubsport v3.
Yeah if buying from scratch I think the V3s are probably the better route.
so 140 bucks for a breakpedal that needs fixing?
Fixing for me at least. I paid the €120 launch price. Some might love it in stock form.
It doesn't need fixing. Its about personal preference. For me the LC is too stiff and it would have been nice if they could have included some adjustability. I've been looking for a product like this one
right hahaha I thought this was gonna be some budget 3rd party load cell as an alternative for the load cell pedal from fanatec.
40mm is an insane amount of pedal travel. I think my Heusinklvelds go about that much progressively. You will get used to it. Just like in f1 their brakes barely move 20mm. Your muscles will remember the force /pressure you put under fast action, not the travel.
The Heusinkveld Brake pedal has an adjustable range of 15mm to 85mm. 40mm is towards the middle of that range.
heusinkveld.com/support/product-manuals/pedal-selection-guide/
A race car has minimal travel in the brake pedal and that is still not reflected in the stock setup, for reference I am running sprints with less than 20cm of travel and can trail brake with ease, sorry but its a technique thing and not a preference thing, a stiffer pedal will give you faster lap times over a soft one that is proven.
20cm is a ton of travel so assuming you mean 20mm. The problem is that the newer stock don’t even travel 20mm. If it did, I wouldn’t be interested in this mod.
You already have SO MUCH TRAVEL!
Mine literally does not move!
Does seem a tad expensive though.....
So this mod just makes it a regular pedal with resistance. I would just get the non load cell bundle; save money and add the mod.
Erm nope. The regular pedal travel is 70mm and is rediculously soft. It is also positional hall sensor based rather than pressure based which the load cell is.
@@HamVR with correct resistance bands on the regular pedals it can get to a lot less than 70mm travel. Similar to the conical mod on thrustsmaster pedals.
Works as advertised but waaaaaaaaaay over priced. I didn't even get socks :(
Real racing car have rock solid brakes pedal though. They barely move…. Just saying.
Equally real racing cars give you a lot of g-force assistance when braking hard from high speed. I also drive a variety of cars in games from old classics to F1.
WARNING! Well even if 3drap is fixing the stiffness issue, the far Bigger issue is the fact that we can not as advertised safe our settings. Every time i want to race, i have to do all the settings again, all of them. At this effing point i cant memorize nothing since i have to redo all brf settings and specialy min settings again and again. So one day 65 feels nice the other day its 70 and so my brain is always in this sad spot of feeling like hmm i know i set it to 65 always but is 70 not better? or 60? If i would set it once and forget about it i would not have this uhh today this feels nice or that feels nice situation. This product at this point is utter trash. I have not only to spend extra 40-50€ to fixe the hardware, no i also have to deal with a load cell that is inconsistent because i cant have 2 days in a row with same settings. Min BRF has to be reset, the max force % jumps back to 30% every time i restart my Pc no settings are safed. Good luck having good starts in Porsche cup cars races with a cluthch you have to calibrate new again and again. Thorttle min and Max deadzones, well redo again and again every effing day. BUT THE SADEST THING IS: Every reviewer did test this pedals only for one day or only on a pc that is running 24/7 in eff the enviroment mode. Otherwise this issue would have been adressed and Fanatec would have been blamed for false advertisment. As of today it seems like this not saving settings situation is there for 2 or more firmware versions and fanatec knows the issue but still when customers adress it they act like they dont know anything about it. It is frustrating. Maybe there is a solution out there, but i could not find any especialy not in the Fanatec forums that would solve it. For month this product is bwoken and Fanatec still advertises it as a prduct that saves your settings while it dose not do so. Pls adress this issue, test it for yourself with the newest firmware and report back to us if you found a solution or maybe you can as an influencer contact fanatec and find out what the eff is going on, since we as customers get only bs from effatec :(
$$$$
Like how everbody blames me on my t300rs and this shit is so expensive but not even flawless
ye fanatectards are dumb. I had a TGT II with nice addon wheels and solt it for the GT DD Bundle. The rim is garbage, the pedals suck and the base is way too weak in 5nm. SO i had to spend 700 for the bundle + 150 Boostkit + 140 Loadcell + 200 Mclaren wheel + 99 Qr 1. as you can see very expensive when u really are better than Thrustmaster. And even now i have to buy some rubbers for the loadcell for 50 Euro nice :D.
Shouldve kept my tgt II with my nice addon wheels and save my money for alcohol and drugs
Looks like the regular pedal probably suited you from the beginning. A load cell isn’t for everyone.
That's what I'm thinking. He took a load cell and converted it into a regular pedal that's stiffer. With 52mm travel on his final setup, he's reaching full braking before he runs out of travel, COMPLETELY defeating the purpose of a load cell.
The original pedal is unrealistically soft and uses a hall sensor to determine brake position. With this setup I'm still using a pressure based sensor and it still gets progressively stiffer. To me this now feels like a sports car brake rather than a race car brake. The main point is now I have range of stiffness options to adjust as I prefer.
@@moes2168 load cell measures pressure, travel or no travel. The travel just helps to trail-brake when releasing the pressure applied. So no this doesn’t defeat the purpose of it because pressure is still being applied, it’s not like the load cell desire was swapped for a potentiometer or Hall effect sensor. For me with no rig, adding a softer thing makes for a perfect balance between force and a small amount of travel. Don’t forget that Ina real car negative g-force helps you to press the brake even harder, but being stationary that’s not possible 😂. Idk if this made sense but that’s my take on why some people want some travel (including me). However when I get a rig I’m going to use the original elastomers so it’s stiff again.
@good chaps ....the point why a lot of people are dissatisfied is that the newer deliveries of the pedal are much stiffer. for me the pedal was not usable in my rig. the pedal travel was way shorter. with the least BRF i get ca. 0,5cm pedal travel to achieve maximum braking effect, and with max BRF (full 65 kg pressure) ca. 1cm.
@@photoobsession It looks like the newer deliveries of load cells are also frying the gas pedals. My rig is out of action because of this. An awful lot of people have this same issue, and fanatec have very poor tech support. Very disappointing 😭😭
Why even buy loadcell then?
Isn't it meant to be stiff with little travel?
The standard pedal is unrealistically soft and has a much longer travel of 70mm. It is positional hall sensor with a bit of sponge to simulate a load cell progressive pressure feeling. The problem with 'stiff and little travel' is that is open to opinion of how stiff and how short is correct. For me 40mm feels like a good amount of pedal travel, but it was too stiff to reach that. By default there is no stiffness adjustment. A short coming of this Load Cell is it's one size fits all design.
@@HamVR i've used standard one at my friends place. It was really soft.
Now i tested his V3s with brake performance kit - very little travel, very stiff.
I hope this loadcell is like this too, i really like as stiff and as little travel as possible.
Thanks for comment, now i understand what the problem is. Thanks for video.
I’m sure this is a great product, but way, way overpriced. Wouldn’t cost more than a dollar to make these with the material.
I left all that bull behind and went Heusinkveld. Yes, they are expensive, but nothing compares now that I've been with them for months
I might someday upgrade to the Heusinkveld pedals (for PC only race sims) but for now I wanted something that would also plug into the wheelbase directly for PlayStation support for GT7
@@HamVR I realize I limited myself there lol...but oh what to do
I just got the CSL LC pedals and that standard LC stiffness is exagerated, to say the least. I have a GT Omega ART cockpit and when i press that damn thing it starts creeking...and the ART is a fairly solid cockpit for the respective price range. I actually regret it now that i paid 200 euros for the LC pedals. I sould have went with the basic 80 euros 2 pedal set, save some money and later on buy the clubsport V3. just p0utting it out there for anyone considerign to buy these pedals with the LC kit. Otherwise the pedals are awesome!