VW/Audi Fan Controller - Case Study
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2019
- Being thorugh with your basics is something Chris Martino holds close to his heart.
In this video, Chris demonstrates how to accurately isolate the culprit of this "cooling fan stuck on" concern with this Audi.
Developing a repetitive and consistent diagnostic strategy to include all of the neccessary steps from A to Z, is a very important key to success for a diagnostician.
Thank you Chris. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.
Good to see someone who actually does diagnostics instead of just replacing parts in the hope that they get the right one. (At the Stealership they actually hope that they get the right one in the second or third try to maximize their profit.)
Just attended the class you taught in Raleigh today on VW and Audi body electronics! Awesome class!!
Great job Chris I never realized these modules malfunction so often. Thanks for sharing
On here today for that exact reason. 1.5k likes makes me think it may be common.
Well explained and very efficient testing. Excellent work to confirm problem. 👍
Great Video, way to keep it simple along with real excellent troubleshooting techniques
Great job. I like your approach to diagnosing this. 👍
this is the kind of vids we are looking for out here. very well done Chris
Very good diagnostic, Chris, I have my A6 C6 with the same problem I suspect, Many thanks.
Great case study THANKS keep posting you'll have many followers.God bless you.
I’ve been working with these Audi fan controllers for awhile an your diagnosis sounds right. However it should be known that most of the Audi fan modules have an internal fail safe to run 100% if the pwm signal is missing.
If you take the relay out for the fan, would that stop it?
That's what he was showing you he done to get the fan to turn off so he could diagnose it.
great video have the same problem on 2002 golf you have saved me so much time and money
Great job. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Good video. 2006 Audi A4 1.8T. After replacing the fan control module does anything need to be programed? Thank you
Very nice diagnosis.thanks.
Awesome video. New to the channel. Cant wait to see more
Thank you again TBT team. Fan control signal questions. Does the ECM deliver a 5 VDC pulse or 12 VDC pulse to the fan control module? Or, does the fan control module deliver a 5 Vref or 12 Vref to the ECM and the ECM toggles the voltage on off ground to create the digital PWM signal? Have a blessed and safe week to you and your families.
My guess is that the cooling fan module supplies 12V to the ECM which pulses it to ground to create a PWM signal for the fan.
Nice work Chris 👍
Great video! Thanks! 👍
Great job 👏 thanks for your time
Great job fellas!
Great video brother. Thank you
What do you call KNOWLEDGEABLE and SUBSTANTIAL the answer is
Trained by Techs
Thank you very much helpful tutorial video. God bless you All
Trained by Techs
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Hello. Did you had any warning light on the cluster? For this fan problem
Thanks for the excellent video. Just have a quick question. I have the same issue but my fan module is ok does that mean the problem is at the ECU ? Any help would be great. Cheers 👍
same boat my red/white wire doesn't send reference V unless the A/C is on. Did you find the fix?
Effective! Any way to substitute the scope with a dvom? How would one set it up?
A regular multimeter will be to slow to catch the square wave.Anyway you can try to set the multimeter on 12v DC.i think you will see some readings but a a scope is require in this situation.
Heyy see you are still using the original modis...good look.. I use it often myself even though I have newer scan tools ...the DSO on the the modis will never be out dated..
I think the viewers need supersonic hearing to understand what was being said. The visuals were excellent!!
Great video very educational
does it mean that ECU has power to energize the radiator fan relay even if the engine is off ?
I have 2012 A7 and my fan won’t come on? Before I buy a whole new fan assembly is it possible way to check if it’s just a wire issue?
Great Video
Thanks for sharing this, I have volkswagen polo diesel 1.2, it also have similar issue fan stays on all the time. But only after turning on the car not starting the engine just turing on.
It does not have separate fan control module, can you recommend what could be the problem?
Old comment, but that could be the fan temperature sensor. That's a cheap and usually easibly replaceable part.
Great video. Thank you
Just diagnosed a 17 Golf with the same issue but module is mounted on rear of single fan. Had to order new fan to get module. Your testing is right on only issue is puncher end on tool for the wires destroys the insulation for copper wire that gets coroaded by salt if you are in an area were they use road salt for winter creating opens in harness. Better to use paper clip push in beside wire in plug to test circuit. Have a lot of electrical issues due to punctured casings on wiring harnesses due to testing tool punctures.
Have the same issue. while fan is on full speed as soon as the ignition is on, and then i start ac the fan turns off and turn on again after a delay ac not blowing any cold air. The compressor wont click .... when I clear the code ac starts cold again.. it is the same problem as yours?
Great video, Chris. I have the same issue on my 07 A4. Odd thing is, when I open the car door, it stops. When I close the door, the fan starts again. Any thoughts on that?
Have u solved your issue as i am facing the same issue when i close the door the fan start running on high speed
Great case study and explanation. Thanks!
There’s a fourth wire on the connector the red and gray wire what is that for ????
Hey TBT I have an 2002 audi a4 B6 and my cooling fan doesn't come on at all and I've replaced all the temperature sensors, thermostat, relays and the cooling fan control module and it still won't come on when the engine needs it. could you help me out?
I am experiencing similar problem with my Audi, only when the engine is cold then it goes off after 3 minutes or so. my question is what's the worst that could happen if i don't fix it immediately?
So i just bought an b6 S4 and got a open circuit code for my fans and it overheated on me once but not again in a while. I just checked and the plug wasn’t plugged in at all, could this be because previous owner knew that if it stayed unplugged the fans would stay running so they left it unplugged?
I have a mk5 GTI 2.0 and my epc asr mil and tire pressure are on, if i only put it on ignition my fans are blowing like crazy, starts and runs for like a minute than it cuts itself out
This look a lot like South Connecticut to me.... hmm🤔
😂😂😂
Really good, broken down diag. Made it all simplified!
Hello Chris. You posted this video four years ago so you may not be monitoring the comments but....
I have a VW Golf Mk4 4Mo that I rally. I've had repeated issues with the FCM failing. I believe this is pretty common. I'm guessing that the connections on the PCB get broken or damaged and hey presto, no fans. The FCM is sealed so its not possible to open it up and check it. Do you know how I could put in a bypass switch so I can turn the fans on manually?
Good video I have my 2009 audi s5 4.2 v8 I have to turn AC on and than the fans only driver side running turn off AC fans not turn on both fans not on, I check got power when car is running is show 14 volt
Before was running on all the time fast speeds when car off draining my battery so replaced control module got from a guy junkyard I don't know control module bad or good or something else. Need help here thank you
My Audi 2010 a6 coolant fans run continuous with ignition on, goes off when ignition off?
Nice job explaining the process sir.
No codes present for this one?
Can you give me the pinout for the 6 pin input of the fan controller?
That was great. Showing how your hooked up and the wiring diagram right there on screen was a big help. Thanks.
Had a problem with my cupra for a while...fans not turning off unless the fuse is removed. I'm attempting to replace fan switch and thermo switch and hoping it helps. Already replaced the control and hasnt solved it
Always test before replacing expensive parts!
@@TrainedbyTechs hasnt been too much cost atm the module was 20, thermo and fan switch around 8 quid each...I'm hoping the fault lies with one of them
That's awesome Chris. Do u have a recommendation on a good kit to de-pin connectors. Very few I can get with a T-pin. Thank u
@@craigtirrell3026 I remember I got my butt kicked one time on this limousine with no A/c operation that I took over for one of the guys in the shop. Code in memory was ac pressure sensor high. I Pierced the signal wire. Keyword is Pireced lol. I had 5 volts. All tests were done plugged in. Reference voltage was there and the main guy I wanted to check was the ground. Open in the ground u would have high voltage all the time. That checked out good. Less than 100 mV. Diagram was wrong in color and when looking at scan data with a test light I was trying to pull the which I thought was the signal wire to ground and scan data didn't react. I went to the computer and did the same thing and no change. I almost called a computer but something told me to go back to the sensor and when I unplugged it the signal wire pin connector was pulled back and not making contact with sensor. It pushed back and clicked and all was well. That was like 2 years ago and I still remember it like it happened yesterday. Hopefully Chris gets back to us soon. That's a cool time saver diagnostic tip
@@craigtirrell3026 I was told a bottle of stabilant 22 only one drop would help with poor contact issues. The professionals told me they try that before condemning an expensive module. It sounds like u are having poor contact.
I used my snap on de-pinning kit to take out the connectors.
I'm confused how depinning the control wire shows that control module has an issue? Supposedly a lot of these control modules turn the fan on full blast when there's no PWM signal detected?
Hey. .... how to uplug this pink connector From fan... how to pry IT...
That intro music man, started banging my head and got carried away .... almost cracked my monitor! cool video, thank you for the awesome testing tips.
Anytime you create an open between the ECM and Fan control module such as backing out that communication wire the fan WILL run at full speed ... This is built in as a safety feature so the engine won't overheat if there's loss of communication. Most Audi and VW vehicles that have a separate fan module do this and you can test this on a known good vehicle
But I do agree the fan module is normally what fails on these
How about bi-directional control for verification. I want to see the light on.
naoki matsushima. This was meant to be a quick 1 2 3 type video. Next time I’ll make sure to show the light on. Thanks.
nice thnx for this tech video
Nicely done Chris 👍
really good job breaking it down thanks
Mine turns on after 30sec of starting the car and remains on as long as the engine is running, what could be the problem
Perfektno svaka cast.Moj problem misterija.A4 b6 19 2004 .Kasno pali ventilator 103 105 c.Probali sve dijagnostika nista ok.Kompjuter davaci svi promenjeni.Motdul reostat isto.Pod klimom radi .Ali nema tu brzinu i kad se upali kao na snimku sporo nesto.Savet pomoc ako moze.Hvalaaaaaa
Hello, I got this code 04531
P069100: Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit Low. Fan not working no ELM light on dash tried to test connector to control module with multimeter is 12v connected wires directly to fan working, replaced control module same also checked all fuses is good.
Buen video y genial X la traducción nada mas que rápido ay que leer. Tengo el mismo drama con un vento
I'm having trouble with the fans not coming on
I have an 06 a4 2.0turbo with ac both my fans stop working causing my car to over heat!
I have constant power to the red wire & the control wire that tells the module to turn the fan on. I have put 3 modules on this car and still neither of the fans come on, with or with out the ac being on. I have power on the opposite side of the module that feed the module it's self but nothing to either of the wires running to the fans, I've replaced all the relays, fuses, coolant temp sensor to no avail. I know the fan motors are good because i can jump them with a hot wire.
What gets me is the relay that is under the ECU that supposedly controls the fan, will shut the car off if you pull it out while the car is running. Whether its the new one i put in it or the one that was in it. I'm at a loss. If you get this message and can lead me in a direction in which I have not all ready been. I would GREATLY APPRECIATE IT. God bless.
Mine aren’t turning on either I’m pretty sure I just need a module do you still have yours? If so, I’d be more than willing to take one off your hands
@@ill3stxmob111 i got of the car.
I have a VW Jetta 2009,with the fan not turning on at all.
Cool!!!
I always remember listening to my Peugeot cooling fan, I was thinking wow that's quiet.
Then it went up to full tilt. Thought it was an aeroplane
Brother fan is not turning on ? What do i do
Perform testing to pinpoint the cause and correction.
Unnecessary wire piercing when backprobing is easily possible. Why?
liviu2004. When doing diagnostics, accuracy is most important. When a problem may be a pin tension issue, piercing is the only way not to mess with your connection.
Done correctly (notice I said correctly), piercing is the best way to get an accurate signal.
Always make sure to use the sharpest probes, and only turn in enough to touch the wire. If you look in the video, you can see the clear nail polish I use on every connection to form a air and water right seal.
Also I don’t ever have to worry is my signal on my scope is from a loose connection or not.
That being said, I have a drawer FULL of all different types of back probes.
@@chrismartino9078 I hear u but in this case if u had punctured t other side of t connector (fan side) then this wiring would have bn replaced with t new fan module - saving u a repair of t insulation on t car harness side. But a great video either way. 👍
@@david-iandawson that’s not how this tool works. You put the wire into the tool first, then you turn the knob until you see a signal. The tool also has a v shaped groove to only select one wire. This will ensure you only pierce the one wire
@@chrismartino9078 I understand how t probe tool works Chris. I was merely saying had u probed t same wire (but on t fan harness side) then u wouldn't have had to disturb any of r vehicle wiring - saving u t job of repairing t insulation with lacquer (or whatever u used). T Golf 4 (Rabbit) suffered t same fault however t fan module was part of t main fan motor, this would cause t A/C to overpressurise as speed 1 fan would be in-op. Great work 👍
my 2004 a6 2.7t does this....but it's not the one connected to the engine. it's the two auxillary fans. they stay on even after cold start and i turn it off driving for 2 min lol. xD any ideas? it's annoying... my car sounds like a fucking jet engine sometimes
Fine sir please Audi Rs5 Abs conictir waring diagram send
Great case study. I had a PT Cruiser fail in a similar way. The fan never worked, but the module would feed 12 volts on the ASD circuit. 3 aftermarket fans in a row did that, junkyard OE fixed it.
BTW... You are a better man than me, I would have just clipped the control wire 🤣
My 2006 audi a3 front wheel drive turbo is doing the same thing, its driving me nuts and nobody can fix it
I wouldn't say nobody ;)
@@TrainedbyTechs well by my location, imma try and change the module once I verify its behind the drivers side cooling fan
Make sure you test it properly before replacing it. Use this video as a guide to do the testing yourself. Do not assume!
@@TrainedbyTechsi understand
👍👍👍
Great video only thing piercing wires big no no from me
Spent ages chasing fault due someone pierced wire previously and wire corroded giving intermittent fault
Otherwise great video
Piercing is only bad when the insulation is improperly pierced and not properly re-sealed when finished. This is a common debate but in our experience, piercing outweighs any other method of signal acquisition.
Trained by Techs partially agree using decent back probing so too proper connection can be achieved
In my case the pierced wire was attempted to seal with liquid tape but due oil contamination on the insulation it a loved water ingress int copper core and that was it
That was the most remembered one but had come across many pierced wires and usually no one bothers to reseal damaged insulation
It can be argued both ways. Each method has cons. Ive seen backprobing restore poor pin fittment issues masking a problem you now will never find. Ive seen backprobing cause damage to the weather pack seal on the connector. Ive seen Backprobing cause adjacent terminals in a connector to short together when the probe is inserted. There is no perfect method unfortunately but in our experience, the only con of gently piercing, is having to reseal when done. Quality pierce probes used correctly leave almost zero penetration marks visible.
The Power supply from the relay should be checked to. It Could be shorted in tje relay. That Was the problem in My case. The Fan Module wasen't the problem here. And it was also turning on by it self with that Power feed from the relay. With ignition off 🙂.
I was hoping to see what will be the outcome after you installed the new radiator fan control module (RFCM), I had similar problem and I was about to install a new fan control module but what I found out was mind blowing. the cause of the problem was an air conditioner fuse that was missing . that's it
Hey all, need some help with diagnosing cooling fans.
Skoda Octavia 2013 mk3 ea288 clha engine :(
Cooling fans don't run when the car gets hot, especially idling/traffic. The Dash gauge doesn't go above 90 in this instance, but the VCDS temp rises steadily above it.
If I switch the HVAC on radiator fan run.
When I run FAN VCDS output test, fan spool up, seemingly at a gradually increasing speed, to a maximum of 87.5% load.
VCDS reads coolant temperature, it got to 101 deg C with no fans turning on (AC Off) before I switched the car off.
Can't work out what's going on. The car seems to know the temperature of the coolant, but doesn't switch on the fans. Fans SEEM to work ok, because AC turns them on.
Is there something else apart from the coolant temperature reading that turns on the radiator cooling fan?
Thanks heaps.
Sider
Hit a pot hole now my damn b6 s4 fans run perfect at idle...but as soon as I give it throttle they go all the way down to freaking 22%..... In 117f weather it's a mofo
Bob is my uncle 😂
So, "nothing was telling the fan to shut off" after you DISCONNECT the wire.. hmm
But in the first instance with the wire connected the fan was doing exactly the same!
No offence but there is a flow in your logic.
I think you changed the module just knowing that the control module is prone to failure.
Yeah, switching the bulb on was illuminating.
(I hope you accept/take the banter and irony..)
The wire that was de-pinned from the connector is the communication circuit from the engine control module to the fan controller. With that wire not connected there is no longer any communication potential from the engine control module. This leaves us with the fan controller as the only remaining component able to turn that fan on or off.
I hope that clears things up.
Pity he doesn’t reply to comments
Who?
I had the same problem I fixed mine watch this video you don't have to replace the radiator fan control module.
th-cam.com/video/vqIpZePFAMA/w-d-xo.html