What type of mortar did you use as your edge restraint? How do you prevent the cement from cracking and failing causing the pavers to move? In my mind because the mortar edge is not very thick it would be break easily.
There are Hardscape manufacturers that have concrete edge restraints that are polymer modified and have fiber to prevent this from happening. Even when they crack they remain together
Question. You have been helpful in the past so thanks. I just finished an about 20x20ft paver patio at my house. Turned out great except for two things. 1, I sunk it because it built into a hill so I have a short wall retainer on the uphill side and along the sides and the downhill side it's about 10 inches below the lawn level. When we get a heavy rain, it holds water but does flow away because of the grade. I think I have a fix for that. So to continue with my problem, I gave the patio a slope 1in per 8ft. so problem 2, I don't like it. Sitting at the table I feel off so I'm thinking of pulling up the pavers. The base is 3/4 minus...about six inches deep, with 1in sand and using plain old sand in the joints. My thought is to pull up the pavers, remove the sand, put down another layer of fabric then a layer of 3/4 or something clean crushed gravel, leveling it to "level" then bringing in some 1/4in chip angular gravel for the final 1in leveling, then relaying the pavers and using plane old sand in the joints. I'm wondering if this will cause problems. I'm hoping because of the exsisting base, it will still drain the way it should, especially if I drill some holes or something through the down hill side of the "sunken" below grade patio wall. The grass side and all of the retainer of the patio has clean gravel on the outside of the wall, so i think the water will flow much better away from the patio and into the lawn if i make these holes. What thoughts or advice do you have?
I would never lay level. Any small variations in your screed layer will hold water on your pavers. And there will be minor 1/16” dips that will be unnoticeable until a rain fall. If you have wide joints, you could use a semi-permeable jointing compound and lay pretty much level. But you need a 3/4” open graded base
Hi! I’m replacing a flagstone walkway with pavers. The flagstones themselves are still in great condition. Can I use them as part of my base, meaning compact them into the dirt, cover with 4” of crushed aggregate, then with 1” of HPB? This way I wouldn’t have to haul them away. Thx!
If you see when the geotextile was installed, I laid a layer of geogrid immediately on top of it. In these cases where the subsoil is weak as it was here I will always use geogrid. Most patios I will use it as we are almost always building on clay.
Well done! Is the Portland used to harden the saturated soil for excavation? I was trained like 33 years ago using clear for base on steps or stairways but not on patios. I now use 5” of 5/8 crushed and 1”-2” of hpb for final grade. ✌️🇨🇦
Yeah both to harden it for excavation and then I also use it again on the subsoil with some 3/4” clear and pound that into it before laying my geotextile. Looks like my camera ran out of batteries during the timelapse for that. Thank you for watching!
Two questions if you wouldn’t mind. 1. Was that Geogrid that you put down on top of the fabric before installing the rest of the 3/4 base? Is that stuff a must have for this type of install? 2. My local landscape supplier has washed limestone chips 3/8-1/8”. Will that work for the hpb?
Yes, it is geogrid. I use it on most patios, but especially patios that have unstable subsoils like this one. That would work, as long as it is angular crushed
Hello, I sm doing my pavers in the back of our house and I happen to order too much of hpb and less gravel. Is 2 inches of hpb bedding layer too much? Thank you
Thank you very much for your info. I laid my 15% pavers already on 2 inches of hpb and realize I made a mistake. I am thinking not to remove the pavers I laid and just continue with the project using 1inch of bedding layer. I live in Montreal so the climate is the same as in Toronto i.e. freeze-thaw cycle during winter.
Rather than put HPB on top of larger crushed rock, any reason you can’t use just HPB (or similar) throughout? Meaning: lay down 6” or 7” of small aggregate like HPB, screed the top of it, then put down the pavers?
@@iamahardscaper I see. Thanks for the info! Is it safe to assume, then, that using only fine aggregate (rather than two different sizes of layered aggregate) would work fine for a paver walkway in my backyard where the heaviest thing that might ever roll over it is a refrigerator or armoire on a moving dolly? BTW I can see why you created an online course in paver installation. You’re a natural-born teacher!
I appreciate that! The answer to your question is no still because there is movement in the earth that will cause the finer aggregate to displace much easier than the larger aggregate.
Hello my friend, I'm a big fan of your channel and work. I did have a question that i keep going around and can't seem to find the best answer. I live in Georgia, and the climates always pretty warm year round except for the winter. I am almost finished with my own Flagstone patio project, and i was wondering to fill in the gaps between the flagstone. I've got Gator dust ready when im done with everything. However, i have been reading a lot that Gator dust tends to wear out a lot quicker than the warranty time expected. I've thought about not using Gator and instead using M10 granite fines between the flagstone. Is this a good idea based on your experience? Thank you so much! Many blessings.
Yes, all polymeric sand wears out faster than what the warranty time says. The granite fines work, but i would want to have an open graded base under my flagstone for that, but you may feel some movement in the flagstone if you opt for that base. The chips will also be more open to weeds and organic material.
I think he had to lay off the edges of the original patio, so he could only get 1 edge to work to 90. That's what he laid off, I thought the same thing for a second then I watched again.
That is right, the client wanted it to line up with the deck (though the video doesn’t show it well). During the construction I convinced them to increase the angle because it was too small of a space
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [2/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qJbQs_nhjD4/mqdefault.jpg)
You sure are gettin em on material
❌
What type of mortar did you use as your edge restraint? How do you prevent the cement from cracking and failing causing the pavers to move? In my mind because the mortar edge is not very thick it would be break easily.
There are Hardscape manufacturers that have concrete edge restraints that are polymer modified and have fiber to prevent this from happening. Even when they crack they remain together
Question. You have been helpful in the past so thanks. I just finished an about 20x20ft paver patio at my house. Turned out great except for two things. 1, I sunk it because it built into a hill so I have a short wall retainer on the uphill side and along the sides and the downhill side it's about 10 inches below the lawn level. When we get a heavy rain, it holds water but does flow away because of the grade. I think I have a fix for that.
So to continue with my problem, I gave the patio a slope 1in per 8ft. so problem 2, I don't like it. Sitting at the table I feel off so I'm thinking of pulling up the pavers. The base is 3/4 minus...about six inches deep, with 1in sand and using plain old sand in the joints. My thought is to pull up the pavers, remove the sand, put down another layer of fabric then a layer of 3/4 or something clean crushed gravel, leveling it to "level" then bringing in some 1/4in chip angular gravel for the final 1in leveling, then relaying the pavers and using plane old sand in the joints.
I'm wondering if this will cause problems. I'm hoping because of the exsisting base, it will still drain the way it should, especially if I drill some holes or something through the down hill side of the "sunken" below grade patio wall. The grass side and all of the retainer of the patio has clean gravel on the outside of the wall, so i think the water will flow much better away from the patio and into the lawn if i make these holes. What thoughts or advice do you have?
I would never lay level. Any small variations in your screed layer will hold water on your pavers. And there will be minor 1/16” dips that will be unnoticeable until a rain fall. If you have wide joints, you could use a semi-permeable jointing compound and lay pretty much level. But you need a 3/4” open graded base
@@iamahardscaper thanks for the reply. I'll probably just leave it but try and work on the drainage on the back side of the short retainer.
Hi! I’m replacing a flagstone walkway with pavers. The flagstones themselves are still in great condition. Can I use them as part of my base, meaning compact them into the dirt, cover with 4” of crushed aggregate, then with 1” of HPB?
This way I wouldn’t have to haul them away. Thx!
I wouldn’t personally
How awesome is the quik cut!! thats what we call them here, I forget what you call it. Is that the 14 inch ?
We call it quick cuts too. Where are you located?
@iamahardscaper I am in Perth WA, I have been thinking about getting a couple of 12 inch cheap ones, go full Texas bricksaw massacre
😂
Yes mine is a 14”
Is there any reason you did not use the geogrid on this project?
Im doing a 9x10 patio and was debating whether or not i needed it.
If you see when the geotextile was installed, I laid a layer of geogrid immediately on top of it. In these cases where the subsoil is weak as it was here I will always use geogrid. Most patios I will use it as we are almost always building on clay.
Well done!
Is the Portland used to harden the saturated soil for excavation? I was trained like 33 years ago using clear for base on steps or stairways but not on patios. I now use 5” of 5/8 crushed and 1”-2” of hpb for final grade. ✌️🇨🇦
Yeah both to harden it for excavation and then I also use it again on the subsoil with some 3/4” clear and pound that into it before laying my geotextile. Looks like my camera ran out of batteries during the timelapse for that.
Thank you for watching!
@@iamahardscaper
Thanks buds.
Two questions if you wouldn’t mind. 1. Was that Geogrid that you put down on top of the fabric before installing the rest of the 3/4 base? Is that stuff a must have for this type of install? 2. My local landscape supplier has washed limestone chips 3/8-1/8”. Will that work for the hpb?
Yes, it is geogrid. I use it on most patios, but especially patios that have unstable subsoils like this one. That would work, as long as it is angular crushed
@@iamahardscaper Did you use non-woven or woven geo fabric on this one?
Hello, I sm doing my pavers in the back of our house and I happen to order too much of hpb and less gravel. Is 2 inches of hpb bedding layer too much? Thank you
I would try not to go more than 1.5”
Thank you very much for your info. I laid my 15% pavers already on 2 inches of hpb and realize I made a mistake. I am thinking not to remove the pavers I laid and just continue with the project using 1inch of bedding layer. I live in Montreal so the climate is the same as in Toronto i.e. freeze-thaw cycle during winter.
Rather than put HPB on top of larger crushed rock, any reason you can’t use just HPB (or similar) throughout? Meaning: lay down 6” or 7” of small aggregate like HPB, screed the top of it, then put down the pavers?
Some do. But it doesnt have the same bearing capacity that a larger aggregate would
@@iamahardscaper
I see. Thanks for the info!
Is it safe to assume, then, that using only fine aggregate (rather than two different sizes of layered aggregate) would work fine for a paver walkway in my backyard where the heaviest thing that might ever roll over it is a refrigerator or armoire on a moving dolly?
BTW I can see why you created an online course in paver installation. You’re a natural-born teacher!
I appreciate that! The answer to your question is no still because there is movement in the earth that will cause the finer aggregate to displace much easier than the larger aggregate.
Hello my friend, I'm a big fan of your channel and work. I did have a question that i keep going around and can't seem to find the best answer. I live in Georgia, and the climates always pretty warm year round except for the winter. I am almost finished with my own Flagstone patio project, and i was wondering to fill in the gaps between the flagstone. I've got Gator dust ready when im done with everything. However, i have been reading a lot that Gator dust tends to wear out a lot quicker than the warranty time expected. I've thought about not using Gator and instead using M10 granite fines between the flagstone. Is this a good idea based on your experience? Thank you so much! Many blessings.
Yes, all polymeric sand wears out faster than what the warranty time says. The granite fines work, but i would want to have an open graded base under my flagstone for that, but you may feel some movement in the flagstone if you opt for that base. The chips will also be more open to weeds and organic material.
I see. Thank you so much! You're awesome. Much success to your channel!!!! 🎉
🙏
Dont understand why you didnt lay that out on a 90 degree angle .
I talked them into the wider angle. See the final shape as opposed to the original plan. Any wider and we would be building a retaining wall.
I think he had to lay off the edges of the original patio, so he could only get 1 edge to work to 90. That's what he laid off, I thought the same thing for a second then I watched again.
That is right, the client wanted it to line up with the deck (though the video doesn’t show it well). During the construction I convinced them to increase the angle because it was too small of a space
@@iamahardscaper great video
🙏