The most time saving technique is knowing which parts are highly visible and you should spend time sanding vs gate nubs that you will never see and can snip away.
Seriously though. I’ve had those moments where I spend time sanding, then a couple steps later that part of the pieces ends up getting covered by another piece and I realize that sanding it was a waste of time 😅
Big facts. I took me a while to realize this. I still give a little quick sand to joint pieces just so they rotate smoother in the polycap/whatever, but that’s about it.
I usually just use a Dspiae glass file after cutting off the nubs. Works pretty well every time. If there's still stress marks even when flat, 95% of the time rubbing it with my finger nail does the job.
for small nibs you can kinda scrape over em with the sharp or blunt edge, helps if its in a though spot to get a good cutaway on the nib. but thanks for the tip on how to not even let it come to that edit; i kinda only build 40k minis so idk if this is different plastic that doesnt allow it/ gets very scratchy and will keep looking that way. generally on 40k minis you just cant see minor scratches you create doing that after painting, and to this day ive never scratched something so bad painting it didnt make it disappear
@@plamomancer ah, got that one as well? when it dropped earlier this year me and my homie ordered it together since he wanted the tyranids and i wanted them marines. well anyway, try not to put too much pressure on the blade when scraping, do small passes so you dont scrape off bigger chunks off of the model accidentally
With this technique, i'm gonna finish my 15 gunpla quickly. Thanks ! (Do you have make a video on the markers ? 'cause i'm gonna try with some gold on the mg barbatos and i research good techniques for newbies)
Depends. The small and medium nubs I cut flat with a knife, and the large ones I cut close and file. If it's blue plastic which shows stress marks the easiest, I almost always file then rub it with a fingernail or with a plastic parts separator to blend the plastic back into color.
If you do it while the parts is still connected in the runner, you will notice that the runner scratches your nipper. It gives a cringe feeling and it might damage the nipper. So remove the parts from the runner using standard nipper, then cut it with single blade.
You could just cut flush and then sand. i call it the "cut and sand method" that saves the pointless step of cutting the wide part for no reason at all. It's also good for nips.
For someone who is painting that would be the way to go, however, not everyone fully paints their kits and more often than not, like to use the bare plastic. Therefore its technically not pointless as taking that extra step helps reduce stress marks from my experience. It also doesnt take that much time to do. But to each their own. If that works for you, keep at it.
I mever got these videos, I built Lfrith with 0 cutters etc, just twisted and popped them from their spurs, 0 nub marks, never had the nub marks issue with gunpla, i have on warhamner tho
Reason I don't use dispae even gh spn 120 b3cause they leave nubs while using hm105 & 109 leaves n9tuing and very flat without white marks. S I've just put my spn120 for display then sold my dispae 3.0. G9nna stick with hobby mio. Saves time in using a hobby knife 👌
Ngl I have a single blade god hand as well as a standard nipper god hand and I used only the standard GH nipper for entire build and it works great no stress marks and very flush.
The most time saving technique is knowing which parts are highly visible and you should spend time sanding vs gate nubs that you will never see and can snip away.
Agreed. If it's not visible, No need to polish it out. A good point.
Except of course for parts that serve as joints where most rotation occurs. You want those parts as smooth as baby's butt
Seriously though. I’ve had those moments where I spend time sanding, then a couple steps later that part of the pieces ends up getting covered by another piece and I realize that sanding it was a waste of time 😅
i realised this mid-building my nu ver.ka
Big facts. I took me a while to realize this. I still give a little quick sand to joint pieces just so they rotate smoother in the polycap/whatever, but that’s about it.
I usually just use a Dspiae glass file after cutting off the nubs. Works pretty well every time. If there's still stress marks even when flat, 95% of the time rubbing it with my finger nail does the job.
true, siren does the job extremely well
Would a diamond file be ok to use?
@@r3za_ never tried a diamond file. What's the grit on it? If it's low, it might be too rough of a finish.
for small nibs you can kinda scrape over em with the sharp or blunt edge, helps if its in a though spot to get a good cutaway on the nib. but thanks for the tip on how to not even let it come to that
edit; i kinda only build 40k minis so idk if this is different plastic that doesnt allow it/ gets very scratchy and will keep looking that way. generally on 40k minis you just cant see minor scratches you create doing that after painting, and to this day ive never scratched something so bad painting it didnt make it disappear
I will try this! I got a couple 40k minis in my backlog. Some Necron Warriors and Deathmarks still in box.
@@plamomancer ah, got that one as well? when it dropped earlier this year me and my homie ordered it together since he wanted the tyranids and i wanted them marines. well anyway, try not to put too much pressure on the blade when scraping, do small passes so you dont scrape off bigger chunks off of the model accidentally
@@KriegsverbrechenGaming awesome. Thanks for the tips!
New to the hobby here. You saved my life
Glad my tips helped!
With this technique, i'm gonna finish my 15 gunpla quickly. Thanks ! (Do you have make a video on the markers ? 'cause i'm gonna try with some gold on the mg barbatos and i research good techniques for newbies)
Only one cut in the runner sanding with a nail, all of the tricks etc left stress marks 99.9% of the time
Depends. The small and medium nubs I cut flat with a knife, and the large ones I cut close and file. If it's blue plastic which shows stress marks the easiest, I almost always file then rub it with a fingernail or with a plastic parts separator to blend the plastic back into color.
I'm just using Standard nipper and Nail nipper. And it do so well 😂
@@jharealisticfantastic5112 whatever works for you!
You can use a hobby knife, or you can get a glass file for that buyback most of the time
I'm super new to the hobby so sorry for the dumb question, but why not just cut with the single-bladed nipper initially?
If you do it while the parts is still connected in the runner, you will notice that the runner scratches your nipper. It gives a cringe feeling and it might damage the nipper.
So remove the parts from the runner using standard nipper, then cut it with single blade.
You could just cut flush and then sand. i call it the "cut and sand method" that saves the pointless step of cutting the wide part for no reason at all. It's also good for nips.
For someone who is painting that would be the way to go, however, not everyone fully paints their kits and more often than not, like to use the bare plastic. Therefore its technically not pointless as taking that extra step helps reduce stress marks from my experience. It also doesnt take that much time to do. But to each their own. If that works for you, keep at it.
I mever got these videos, I built Lfrith with 0 cutters etc, just twisted and popped them from their spurs, 0 nub marks, never had the nub marks issue with gunpla, i have on warhamner tho
Reason I don't use dispae even gh spn 120 b3cause they leave nubs while using hm105 & 109 leaves n9tuing and very flat without white marks. S I've just put my spn120 for display then sold my dispae 3.0. G9nna stick with hobby mio. Saves time in using a hobby knife 👌
Ngl I have a single blade god hand as well as a standard nipper god hand and I used only the standard GH nipper for entire build and it works great no stress marks and very flush.
Me who cuts it straight to the edge... No need to sand.. no nub whatsoever