Thank you both for this very informative video. I bought my current driver, Ping G410 with 10.5° loft, 2 years ago and for the first few months most of my drives made it to the fairway. Wanting more distance, I decided to modify hosel fitting to 9°, and, inexplicably, 8/10 drives headed off to the right. I put the hosel back to 10.5°, but the damage was done = 8/10 drives were slices. After watching this video a couple of times, and taking note of your explanations on the consequences of moving the hosel +/-, I moved the loft to 11,5° and low and behold, I am once again consistently hitting fairways and have even gained distance = all drives +200 metres. For me, this video has been a game-changer and a confidence-booster. Many thanks!
Agreed, this is my first ever adjustable driver and it can be intimidating when it comes to all these adjustments. Just got it yesterday so super excited to get it on the range
This explained why the slice/face with the lower loft setting. I think I will go back to factory settings when the ball was going pretty much straight, just a little higher than I wanted.
This is great, guys !! I'm a lifetime Golf Professional. In my opinion, this is the best, most retainable, most absorbable presentation of really crucial fundamental information, as I have seen. My hat's off to each of you. Excellent !! Thx 😊
nice video, I have found that moving the weight to the toe feels really weird and I did not like it. I play my 9* with neutral weight and at 7.5 effective loft. I have heard that the weight has more impact on getting mass behind the strike, so if you hit off heel place weight near heel etc... not sure if that is necessarily the case.
I tend to agree that the movable weight is very easy to overcome. I have played it in all three positions and have worked the ball both intentionally and unintentionally either way. But in the toe for strikes towards the toe feel really solid. I found that the way to not slice is to make a conscious effort to hit a draw and vice versa. With my swing now I am hitting it very straight and striving for the middle of the club. I’ve seen these testers prove that it works but moving 24g 10 cm vs my 120kg moving all over the place (just made up numbers because it is metric and Americans don’t care about metric numbers.) doesn’t seem to matter as much, but change the feel on contact. I would say that no matter where I put it I can
Very interesting. I was fascinated to learn that increasing the loft, results in closing the club face. This is counter intuiative, because to increase the loft of a wedge, you open the club face. I still can't visulise this being the other way around.
I am considering the 425 but went back to look at the instruction manual on my TM M5, it's the same. I had it tuned for -2 degree loft which is an open face and that's my misses.
@@simmo5071 When you "increase the loft" with an adjustable driver, you are just getting face angle change. The face opens/closes about 1.5 degrees per 1 degree of "loft" change. The loft change doesn't happen unless that club is squared back up. For example, using the increased loft setting on the driver closes the face initially. If you then return the club to a square position at impact (or manually adjust it back to square prior to gripping the club), you will get the increase in loft you're looking for. So increasing/decreasing loft on the adapter is very helpful for a slice/hook if you let the driver sit naturally in it's new open or closed position. If you truly want a loft adjustment, you may have to manually adjust the clubface to a square position before gripping it. Getting a more/less lofted clubhead would be the easiest way to go about this.
Thanks for at least mentioning the flat setting. I have the G425Max 10.5° set Flat -1° or 9.5° wt centered. I also switched to the ProV1x ball to reduce the spin. I could have gotten more distance with the 9° head but my focus in on not making my “2nd Swing” a punch from under the trees. It was much more controllable.
Off the driver it is less spin. Although I’m testing the new AVX and like it. Didn’t love it a few years ago but my swing has changed. I got a deal ($24 dozen from TM because of a cancelled event for COVID last year where I bought 6 dozen balls. They were TP5’s and they were too spiny off the driver for me. I ordered TP5X but was sent TP5’s. But for that price I could live with it. Other than some yards lost with the driver they were great balls. But do not float.
Check out 2nd swings comparison of the ProV1 vs the X from a couple months back. They are close off driver but the regular proV1 spins less than the X.
@@phytosnappy3069 I actually watched that today. It also depends on the driver. The AVX was not really good for me when I played the SLDR or the M5. The TP5’s weren’t significantly shorter with the M5. But I have some ProV1x’s floating around the bag and they are noticeably longer and less spin with the G425Max. I decided to hit an AVX yesterday on number 10 and played the entire back 9 with it. Still got spin around the greens and either I was swinging a bit better yesterday or they suited me better with the Ping. I was playing with my group so I couldn’t exactly hit them side by side. I’ll do that this week. But I’m down to my last box of TP5’s. And have some TP5X’s.
I am a chronic slicer of the golf ball. I bought one of these and it really helps me. I have taken lessons and know what I’m doing wrong which also helps. But this VS my previous driver, Callaway Epic, it’s night and day.
26g is a lot of moveable weight no? Epic Max is 16g. I tested a number of drivers and I found the G425 to have the greatest impact on left/right movement. In fade settings, I could NOT move it left vice-versa in draw. I just wish it sounded better but I pretty sure this is my next driver.
Thomas, how to you move strike location on the driver face during a fit without changing someone's ball position or having them choke up? i.e. different shaft, different CG location...
Looking at the chart for carry and total distance, making extreme adjustments from bit plus to big minus didn’t make a lot of difference. I am putting the hosel back to standard getting a slight draw bias which is just fine. I haven’t been a slicer for years. If my balls goes off target line , it is straight left or right which is my fault.
Hi Ricky, since I made this comment I played around with the weight, and found that moving it to the heal massively helped, although on the course I was still a bit inconsistent. I recently had a driver lesson and found out that my set up wasn't very good. My right arm was above my left (I'm right handed) and was swinging out to in. Quick notes - . Stand with feet together with ball in middle . Place right hand on backside and bring round from underneath to square shoulders. . Take stance with legs .bend knees slightly .don't sway when back swing .swing with arms first not body .make sure you swing up and around ( swing should not finish with driver swang around waste) After my lesson I found I was hooking the ball so moved the weight back to the middle and my drives have massively improved! Hope this helps. 😎👍
I was in the same boat as you. I owned a G400 SFT ... which helps slicing. I recently tried out the new G425 Max with a 26 weight set in the draw position (the golf pro rep at for Ping at the shop recommended I do this). I could not believe the difference. So much more consistent. Balls were flying straighter than ever. G400 SFT is an amazing club, but after trying the G425 Max set in the Draw position and seeing the results, I bought the club immediately and never looked back. Yes, it does help. I am 100% proof of it.
@@rickylalonde2317 I was in the same boat as you. I owned a G400 SFT ... which helps slicing. I recently tried out the new G425 Max with a 26 weight set in the draw position (the golf pro rep at for Ping at the shop recommended I do this). I could not believe the difference. So much more consistent. Balls were flying straighter than ever. G400 SFT is an amazing club, but after trying the G425 Max set in the Draw position and seeing the results, I bought the club immediately and never looked back. Yes, it does help. I am 100% proof of it.
@@flex_flex6988not even close, it’s also ALOT uglier than the G425 as well lol. The headcover is the cheapest i’ve ever seen, the only good thing I’ve heard about the G430 is that the sound is better for some players, but that’s literally it.
Considering the average weight for an adjustable back weight on a driver is like 12g, a 26g adjustable weight offers a considerable amount of weight shift
so with my driver my bad shot goes right, and usually use a 10.5 degree driver. so if the moveable weights don't help enough, then it would be best to get a 9 degree driver, and close the face to 10.5, and that should help out even more?
Another great video indeed. Thanks Thomas and Drew. My swing changes approximately every 1.7 seconds. My g425 max is set for neutral settings. It has worked out great in the past. Lately I am hitting 50 percent hooks, 20 percent fade, 20 percent slice, 10 percent draws off the tee. I start my round with hooks. I think the slices are coming from me trying to make swing and grip adjustments to the hooks. I am going to hit up the range and mess around with some of the settings you suggested. Thanks. Please jeep the videos flowing.
How did you make out? I'm swinging a 425 max and have hit everything hooked left. It's at 10.5 degrees. I'm thinking of dropping it to 9 degrees to help open the face
What is the small screw beside the one holding on the club head. My friend recently purchased a used driver and it is missing this screw. Is that a problem or can it be easily replaced?
Keep in mind its a bias. It's not going to correct everything. I suggest focusing on club face control. the golf ball always follows the direction the club is pointing - Thomas
What you you expect with the 9 degree down to 7.5 with the weight in a draw bias? Does the 1.5 lower and draw bias promote a strong closed club face? I wasn’t sure on the video whether you tested the weights with the face in the standard 9 degree loft…
If you go flat…lie angle will be flatter and start the ball out more to the right. If you go up in loft it will close the face. If you go down in loft it will open the face. Typically for 1 degree of loft change it affects face angle 2 degrees. So if you hook the ball. Try flat setting and turn down loft and weight out on toe..and could try a shorter shaft to lower the lie even more…could also go down a flex so the toe would dip the lie even flatter….If you slice…go up in loft at standard lie angle and weight in heel. A longer shaft if you can hit it consistently would also help a slice a tad. So in a nutshell….GET FIT on a simulator so you can see your path to face, launch, spin, etc!
@@patrickhoward4080 I get the "science" behind it, but recently I borrowed a lady driver in a shorter length with a regular shaft (my usual one is longer and stiffer). I normally have a bad slice, but I could hit this one much straighter and with ease. Explain that? According to the science it should've had the opposite effect.
Love the videos very informational. Would like to see driver shaft compression same length and weight just different brands. How much difference would there be??
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Thank you both for this very informative video. I bought my current driver, Ping G410 with 10.5° loft, 2 years ago and for the first few months most of my drives made it to the fairway. Wanting more distance, I decided to modify hosel fitting to 9°, and, inexplicably, 8/10 drives headed off to the right. I put the hosel back to 10.5°, but the damage was done = 8/10 drives were slices. After watching this video a couple of times, and taking note of your explanations on the consequences of moving the hosel +/-, I moved the loft to 11,5° and low and behold, I am once again consistently hitting fairways and have even gained distance = all drives +200 metres. For me, this video has been a game-changer and a confidence-booster. Many thanks!
I recently learned this myself prior to seeing this video. They're spot on. Loving my G425 Max in the Draw position.
Agreed, this is my first ever adjustable driver and it can be intimidating when it comes to all these adjustments. Just got it yesterday so super excited to get it on the range
This explained why the slice/face with the lower loft setting. I think I will go back to factory settings when the ball was going pretty much straight, just a little higher than I wanted.
Excellent in-depth review on settings for the ping … would you consider doing the same for sim 2 max ?
This is great, guys !! I'm a lifetime Golf Professional. In my opinion, this is the best, most retainable, most absorbable presentation of really crucial fundamental information, as I have seen. My hat's off to each of you. Excellent !! Thx 😊
Thank you so much for watching and for that feedback!!
nice video, I have found that moving the weight to the toe feels really weird and I did not like it. I play my 9* with neutral weight and at 7.5 effective loft. I have heard that the weight has more impact on getting mass behind the strike, so if you hit off heel place weight near heel etc... not sure if that is necessarily the case.
I tend to agree that the movable weight is very easy to overcome. I have played it in all three positions and have worked the ball both intentionally and unintentionally either way. But in the toe for strikes towards the toe feel really solid. I found that the way to not slice is to make a conscious effort to hit a draw and vice versa. With my swing now I am hitting it very straight and striving for the middle of the club. I’ve seen these testers prove that it works but moving 24g 10 cm vs my 120kg moving all over the place (just made up numbers because it is metric and Americans don’t care about metric numbers.) doesn’t seem to matter as much, but change the feel on contact.
I would say that no matter where I put it I can
Very helpful. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Great video. I have the G425s and love them. Now I can tweek my swing to lose the fade/slice I am plagued with.
How did you tweak the settings. they were not very clear. Please.
Very well,done. Just got the driver and it’s by far the straightest driver I have owned.
Very interesting. I was fascinated to learn that increasing the loft, results in closing the club face. This is counter intuiative, because to increase the loft of a wedge, you open the club face. I still can't visulise this being the other way around.
I was hoping someone would answer this question, it does seem to be just the opposite.
I am considering the 425 but went back to look at the instruction manual on my TM M5, it's the same. I had it tuned for -2 degree loft which is an open face and that's my misses.
@@simmo5071 When you "increase the loft" with an adjustable driver, you are just getting face angle change. The face opens/closes about 1.5 degrees per 1 degree of "loft" change. The loft change doesn't happen unless that club is squared back up. For example, using the increased loft setting on the driver closes the face initially. If you then return the club to a square position at impact (or manually adjust it back to square prior to gripping the club), you will get the increase in loft you're looking for. So increasing/decreasing loft on the adapter is very helpful for a slice/hook if you let the driver sit naturally in it's new open or closed position. If you truly want a loft adjustment, you may have to manually adjust the clubface to a square position before gripping it. Getting a more/less lofted clubhead would be the easiest way to go about this.
Have you even sliced a wedge lol?
Can you adjust the g430 sft driver down by one degree and still keep the draw bias?
Thanks for at least mentioning the flat setting. I have the G425Max 10.5° set Flat -1° or 9.5° wt centered. I also switched to the ProV1x ball to reduce the spin. I could have gotten more distance with the 9° head but my focus in on not making my “2nd Swing” a punch from under the trees. It was much more controllable.
You switched to a Pro V1X to reduce spin…. What were you playing with a Balata from 30 years ago? Hahaha
Yeah the ProV1x is the highest spinning titleist ball, it flipped a few generations back.
Off the driver it is less spin. Although I’m testing the new AVX and like it. Didn’t love it a few years ago but my swing has changed. I got a deal ($24 dozen from TM because of a cancelled event for COVID last year where I bought 6 dozen balls. They were TP5’s and they were too spiny off the driver for me. I ordered TP5X but was sent TP5’s. But for that price I could live with it. Other than some yards lost with the driver they were great balls. But do not float.
Check out 2nd swings comparison of the ProV1 vs the X from a couple months back. They are close off driver but the regular proV1 spins less than the X.
@@phytosnappy3069 I actually watched that today. It also depends on the driver. The AVX was not really good for me when I played the SLDR or the M5. The TP5’s weren’t significantly shorter with the M5. But I have some ProV1x’s floating around the bag and they are noticeably longer and less spin with the G425Max. I decided to hit an AVX yesterday on number 10 and played the entire back 9 with it. Still got spin around the greens and either I was swinging a bit better yesterday or they suited me better with the Ping. I was playing with my group so I couldn’t exactly hit them side by side. I’ll do that this week. But I’m down to my last box of TP5’s. And have some TP5X’s.
I am a chronic slicer of the golf ball. I bought one of these and it really helps me. I have taken lessons and know what I’m doing wrong which also helps. But this VS my previous driver, Callaway Epic, it’s night and day.
Awesome! Great to hear you've found a driver that works!
26g is a lot of moveable weight no? Epic Max is 16g. I tested a number of drivers and I found the G425 to have the greatest impact on left/right movement. In fade settings, I could NOT move it left vice-versa in draw. I just wish it sounded better but I pretty sure this is my next driver.
Thomas, how to you move strike location on the driver face during a fit without changing someone's ball position or having them choke up? i.e. different shaft, different CG location...
Never mind didn’t know it it actually displayed on the head, thanks
Pro선수말고, 아마추어 (90마일 속도)의 경우에 대한 testing이면 좋겠읍니다
Does ping arcoss come with each club you Purchase?? My fitter changed the grip to jumbo and the arcoss is not there. Please advise. Thank you
Did you purchase the g425 MAX or the LST?
Draw bias is moving the weight towards the heel?
Correct - more weight in the heel of a club will promote more face rotation on the downswing
This video was really useful, thanks
Looking at the chart for carry and total distance, making extreme adjustments from bit plus to big minus didn’t make a lot of difference. I am putting the hosel back to standard getting a slight draw bias which is just fine. I haven’t been a slicer for years. If my balls goes off target line , it is straight left or right which is my fault.
As someone who slices, do you think weight in the heal (draw) with setting on the small + would help? What setting would you recommend?
Thanks.
Same for me ,if you get an answer please let me know,
Hi Ricky, since I made this comment I played around with the weight, and found that moving it to the heal massively helped, although on the course I was still a bit inconsistent.
I recently had a driver lesson and found out that my set up wasn't very good. My right arm was above my left (I'm right handed) and was swinging out to in.
Quick notes -
. Stand with feet together with ball in middle
. Place right hand on backside and bring round from underneath to square shoulders.
. Take stance with legs
.bend knees slightly
.don't sway when back swing
.swing with arms first not body
.make sure you swing up and around ( swing should not finish with driver swang around waste)
After my lesson I found I was hooking the ball so moved the weight back to the middle and my drives have massively improved!
Hope this helps. 😎👍
I was in the same boat as you. I owned a G400 SFT ... which helps slicing. I recently tried out the new G425 Max with a 26 weight set in the draw position (the golf pro rep at for Ping at the shop recommended I do this). I could not believe the difference. So much more consistent. Balls were flying straighter than ever. G400 SFT is an amazing club, but after trying the G425 Max set in the Draw position and seeing the results, I bought the club immediately and never looked back.
Yes, it does help. I am 100% proof of it.
@@rickylalonde2317 I was in the same boat as you. I owned a G400 SFT ... which helps slicing. I recently tried out the new G425 Max with a 26 weight set in the draw position (the golf pro rep at for Ping at the shop recommended I do this). I could not believe the difference. So much more consistent. Balls were flying straighter than ever. G400 SFT is an amazing club, but after trying the G425 Max set in the Draw position and seeing the results, I bought the club immediately and never looked back.
Yes, it does help. I am 100% proof of it.
What is the draw setting that helped you with your slice?
I've had mine now for a couple of months, easily the best driver I've ever owned. I can't imagine what will replace the 425.
Imagine bonus weight similar club different number and higher price, there your imagination is taken care of.
The G430 is way better
@@flex_flex6988not even close, it’s also ALOT uglier than the G425 as well lol. The headcover is the cheapest i’ve ever seen, the only good thing I’ve heard about the G430 is that the sound is better for some players, but that’s literally it.
Incredible information guys
You need to show me what adjustment you were making, by showing the markings on the hosel. I couldn't understand anything you said.
I’m left handed golfer and have this club. And tend to slice it. How would I adjust it to help with the slice.
Go to the small plus which adds a loft and closes face.
@@mosshopper7932 ok thanks. I will try it out tonite.
Great video and work from these guys again
Thank you for watching! - Thomas
Great video, highly suggest guy in blue completely shave his head, he’ll look great 👌🏼
Can the 425 Driver lie angle be altered with hosel adjustments? That is, can I adjust the loft and lie independently?
Thanks for this guys.... apparently I adjusted mine the wrong way making NY slice pronounced... Time to adjust and hit the range.
Considering the average weight for an adjustable back weight on a driver is like 12g, a 26g adjustable weight offers a considerable amount of weight shift
Would you reckon a 9 degree g425 max lofted to 10.5 would present the same conditions preset in the SFT version?
so with my driver my bad shot goes right, and usually use a 10.5 degree driver. so if the moveable weights don't help enough, then it would be best to get a 9 degree driver, and close the face to 10.5, and that should help out even more?
It'll be great if they make those movable weights tool less, I know rules of golf won't allow changing settings during a round but it would be nice.
Great video thanks! In the draw setting was spin and trajectory lower due to where the CG was moved to? Or was it the particular strike?
How many degrees open or closed per setting? How many degrees open or closed does for the flat setting? Thanks... Dale
A video on ball/club data as you change the loft via the loft sleeve with a Sim 2 would be an awesome video!
Another great video indeed. Thanks Thomas and Drew. My swing changes approximately every 1.7 seconds. My g425 max is set for neutral settings. It has worked out great in the past. Lately I am hitting 50 percent hooks, 20 percent fade, 20 percent slice, 10 percent draws off the tee. I start my round with hooks. I think the slices are coming from me trying to make swing and grip adjustments to the hooks. I am going to hit up the range and mess around with some of the settings you suggested. Thanks. Please jeep the videos flowing.
How did you make out? I'm swinging a 425 max and have hit everything hooked left. It's at 10.5 degrees. I'm thinking of dropping it to 9 degrees to help open the face
@@danfitzgerald4100 If you hooking everything turn it to flat setting on hosel
@@454budman I didn't even know that existed. Just looked up a video on it. I'm going to try it as soon as I get home
A video on ball/club data as you change the loft via the loft sleeve with a Sim 2 would be an awesome video!
I am a left handed an tend to slice right to left what settings on the ping g425 would yous recommend I go to on the shaft regards
So if my miss is a slice I probably shouldn't lower the loft.
Surely If you loft up it opens the face not closes it ? And vice versa ?
How bout telling us where you place the weight for draw and fade
I would have liked to see what happens when you take the weight out too.
Interesting 👏 I play this driver & it’s nothing to do with distance just left to right
Bought the max. Why do you ask? Regards
Can you do the same with a beginner?
What is the small screw beside the one holding on the club head. My friend recently purchased a used driver and it is missing this screw. Is that a problem or can it be easily replaced?
Very late but it was likely a grub screw in the hot melt port. I don’t think it’s a big deal.
Thomas, what happened to the 112-115 mph clubhead speed? Are you losing some speed due to not continuing the training with the speed sticks?
He’s getting old honestly
Great video, thank you.
Hi, in this video you mention that increasing the loft will close the face. Is there a way of increasing the loft and keeping the face at neutral?
Your best option with G425 is to increase the loft by 1* and put the hosel in the flat setting (+1) - Thomas
Sounds so much better in person
I’ve changed loft and weights in different configurations all season, and darn it……it still goes straight too where I aim!
Keep in mind its a bias. It's not going to correct everything. I suggest focusing on club face control. the golf ball always follows the direction the club is pointing - Thomas
what shaft were you using?
What would happen if you take the tungsten weight out of the driver?
It would be much lighter and the center of gravity will change leading to a different launch profile - Thomas
I love this video. Absolutely excellent!!!
What launch monitor is that
Where can i get that tool
Excellent information
Thanks for watching!
So what your saying is, its a bias?
Correct. It won't solve everything. Club path and face angle will - Thomas
한글로 번역되면 참 좋겠읍니다...........
Amazing!
Got mine coming next week. Huge improvement on my old G30 😃
A few generations of forgiveness and tec. We hope you enjoy the G425. - Thomas
how have you liked the 425 vs G30
What you you expect with the 9 degree down to 7.5 with the weight in a draw bias?
Does the 1.5 lower and draw bias promote a strong closed club face?
I wasn’t sure on the video whether you tested the weights with the face in the standard 9 degree loft…
Hang on a minute. Isn't it the other way around. You loft up and your prone to a fade? Loft it down and more prone to a hook?
no
If you go flat…lie angle will be flatter and start the ball out more to the right. If you go up in loft it will close the face. If you go down in loft it will open the face. Typically for 1 degree of loft change it affects face angle 2 degrees. So if you hook the ball. Try flat setting and turn down loft and weight out on toe..and could try a shorter shaft to lower the lie even more…could also go down a flex so the toe would dip the lie even flatter….If you slice…go up in loft at standard lie angle and weight in heel. A longer shaft if you can hit it consistently would also help a slice a tad. So in a nutshell….GET FIT on a simulator so you can see your path to face, launch, spin, etc!
@@patrickhoward4080 I get the "science" behind it, but recently I borrowed a lady driver in a shorter length with a regular shaft (my usual one is longer and stiffer). I normally have a bad slice, but I could hit this one much straighter and with ease. Explain that? According to the science it should've had the opposite effect.
what does using the"flat" settings do?
It changes the lie angle to be 1° flat from standard lie angle. This is the biggest selling point for me, personally.
Actually 3 degrees flat
Unbelievably confusing. What should the settings be to help someone correct a 30-40 yard fade/slice ? Thank You!
Love the videos very informational. Would like to see driver shaft compression same length and weight just different brands. How much difference would there be??
I'd love to see a video on the difference between a steel or graphite shaft in a utility iron 🤞
I’d love too see a comparison of a standard 9, 10.5 & 12 degree separate clubs as I think the + & - settings are fake