Doing an oil change after a rebuild. I found the 8mm pressure module bolts stripped, a solenoid clip installed to the side of the solenoid holding it in and plastic accumulators. Tech did put in a shift kit but what's the use if all the other parts are crap? Bought pinless accumulators, replaced the stripped 8mm bolts with studs (there's about 1/2 inch of good thread in the bolt hole) and replaced all the O rings with Viton. if you have the time and tools, watch these videos a few times and do it yourself.
I will flex hone the bore on certain units that have bonded pistons when using teflon rings I prefer just to clean the bore and remove any burs caused during disassembly
Awesome video. I’m having a hard 1-2 shift after she warms up . Also have a short delay once every other month with forward drive. Had it rebuilt about 70k miles ago. Had the issue very early on but I couldn’t duplicate the problem when I took her to the tranny shop so I kept getting turned away. I’m going to be replacing the 1-2, 3-4, and forward accumulator pistons with the sonnax pin less accumulator pistons. Thoughts? BTW I like the music. Relaxing 😎
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Thanks for the quick response! Btw she’s a 2005 Suburban with 4L60E. She’s not throwing any codes for slip. Should I be changing out the valve along with the EPC solenoid if the line pressure is low?
I would get a pressure gauge on it and verify low line. A worn afl valve bore can cause all of these complaints. Also when you pull the vb down make sure you check the plate for excess wear in the check ball holes.
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Well I got the valve body down and the check balls were different sizes. Looks like the tranny shop grabbed whatever random check balls they could and put them in the valve body. Also valve body bolts were super tight. Think I’ll go ahead and buy the Torton balls for her. Doesn’t look like the valve body has excess wear in the check ball holes. Will I need the 0.250” check balls?
Yep yep definitely want all the same size balls good catch also make sure the back three bolts that hold the separator plate on are torqued while your there.
A couple more questions ... is it worth drilling holes in the spacer plate? Should you plug the hole with an aluminum rivet? They are interconnected, a rivet and a new valve with a spring?
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Say, I understand correctly? After I put the rivet, install the valve with the spring from the kit, the torque converter will be in constant engagement, thereby it will stop dumping gear from fourth to third when accelerating? Or I'm wrong?
Friend, it seems to me that you did not put the battery piston 3-4 correctly ... According to the manual, the spring should be on top ... Correct me if I'm wrong ...
@@james10739 11. Pinless 3-4 Accumulator Installation a. Remove accumulator pin. NOTE: Pin bore is blind in this location, so there is no need to plug with any checkball. b. Install D-ring toward dome with PTFE seal toward open end. Install dome toward case (Figure 15). c. Install Sonnax 3-4 accumulator spring.
Can you guys sell me a good valve body doesn't need any mods just need a good valvebody without leaks and bad bores I can't afford the reamer. Really enjoy your videos but I've done my rebuild last thing I was checking my vb and it's got bores must be worn leaking pressure.
![บุษบา - วงชานเมือง [LiveCoverVertion] Original : เมนทอล](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Dm81sKcd9rs/mqdefault.jpg)
A little hard to hear over the music but other than that great video.
Thanks man I really appreciate the feedback we'll try to make the vocals clearer
Ya that was a weird choice to have music at anything but very minimal
The music drove me nuts!!!
Sorry about that we've come along ways in our newer videos in the audio. Thanks for the comments and feedback.
Would've been informative if music was gone !!
Thank you for the feedback
Hell yeah you got my subscription!! Great instruction
Good information on the valve body assembly and upgrade.
Thank you
Great video thank you👍😊 just subscribed have hard shift in to second ill check line pressure
Great video but the music to loud thanks for share
the whole reason i watched this was to see how you drilled the vb plate and plugged the tcc pwm feed hole...
Well maybe next time
Did you install the conical screen filter into the snout of the lockup solenoid before you installed the solenoid into the pump?
Doing an oil change after a rebuild. I found the 8mm pressure module bolts stripped, a solenoid clip installed to the side of the solenoid holding it in and plastic accumulators. Tech did put in a shift kit but what's the use if all the other parts are crap?
Bought pinless accumulators, replaced the stripped 8mm bolts with studs (there's about 1/2 inch of good thread in the bolt hole) and replaced all the O rings with Viton. if you have the time and tools, watch these videos a few times and do it yourself.
Sorry to hear that. I'm glad our videos helped with your transmission.
Si mi arnes nuevo tiene un plug extra de la 4l60e lo puedo usar?
whats your thoughts on flex honing all the bores while its empty?
just asking..
larry
I will flex hone the bore on certain units that have bonded pistons when using teflon rings I prefer just to clean the bore and remove any burs caused during disassembly
Awesome video. I’m having a hard 1-2 shift after she warms up . Also have a short delay once every other month with forward drive. Had it rebuilt about 70k miles ago. Had the issue very early on but I couldn’t duplicate the problem when I took her to the tranny shop so I kept getting turned away. I’m going to be replacing the 1-2, 3-4, and forward accumulator pistons with the sonnax pin less accumulator pistons. Thoughts?
BTW I like the music. Relaxing 😎
I would scan for codes and verify no slip codes then do accumulator. Also check line pressure may be time for a epc
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Thanks for the quick response! Btw she’s a 2005 Suburban with 4L60E. She’s not throwing any codes for slip. Should I be changing out the valve along with the EPC solenoid if the line pressure is low?
I would get a pressure gauge on it and verify low line. A worn afl valve bore can cause all of these complaints. Also when you pull the vb down make sure you check the plate for excess wear in the check ball holes.
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Well I got the valve body down and the check balls were different sizes. Looks like the tranny shop grabbed whatever random check balls they could and put them in the valve body. Also valve body bolts were super tight. Think I’ll go ahead and buy the Torton balls for her. Doesn’t look like the valve body has excess wear in the check ball holes. Will I need the 0.250” check balls?
Yep yep definitely want all the same size balls good catch also make sure the back three bolts that hold the separator plate on are torqued while your there.
A couple more questions ... is it worth drilling holes in the spacer plate? Should you plug the hole with an aluminum rivet? They are interconnected, a rivet and a new valve with a spring?
Yes the holes need to be drilled and the rivet has to be installed if the spring and valve are
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Say, I understand correctly? After I put the rivet, install the valve with the spring from the kit, the torque converter will be in constant engagement, thereby it will stop dumping gear from fourth to third when accelerating? Or I'm wrong?
It changes it from a pulsed on lock up to an on off lock up while regulating the converter clutch pressure down for better converter life.
What about the check balls?
No music please, hard to understand you. Great video!
Love your videos but I'm hard of hearing a👍nd I can't hardly hear you with the background music. Other than that
Friend, it seems to me that you did not put the battery piston 3-4 correctly ... According to the manual, the spring should be on top ... Correct me if I'm wrong ...
I believe you are right about how the factory one guess but the sonnax instructions to do as he did if I remember correctly from installing mine
@@james10739 11. Pinless 3-4 Accumulator Installation
a. Remove accumulator pin.
NOTE: Pin bore is blind in this location, so
there is no need to plug with any checkball.
b. Install D-ring toward dome with PTFE seal toward open end.
Install dome toward case (Figure 15).
c. Install Sonnax 3-4 accumulator spring.
@@james10739 spring top
I prefer the piston in the way it is in the video.
Can you guys sell me a good valve body doesn't need any mods just need a good valvebody without leaks and bad bores I can't afford the reamer. Really enjoy your videos but I've done my rebuild last thing I was checking my vb and it's got bores must be worn leaking pressure.
4F15
couldnt here what you were saying, music way to loud
Sorry we were and are always learning check out some of the newer videos I think you'll be a lot happier with the quality
STOP THE MUSIC!
I'm trying to figure out how we will be doing another one of these soon we'll do with out music.
Turn off the stupid concert