Another thing is when you are satisfied with your layout on your bottom plate, put your top plate right next to it and use your speed square to transfer the layout so it’s the same, rather than using your tape measure to layout the other plates
Layout is difficult for new carpenters and diyers. A good way you can double check your work is remember your sheet material is 4’ whether it’s Sheetrock or plywood or whatever. So before you start shooting on your studs hook your tape and pull 4’, 8’ etc and make sure a stud lands in the middle of each of those measurements.
Just curious, wouldn't you want to tape of the seems of the foam board to make it a solid vapour barrier? What about the upper portion of the exterior wall, do you not put up plastic or some form of vapour barrier? Thanks
Well technically I miss spoke about the foam board being a vapor barrier. You could seal the seams with tape to make a complete seal for sure and it would help some. As for the upper part of the wall that part is above grade so it is just like a normal wall framed up with fiberglass insulation and a craft face as a vapor barrier. I hope this helps.
what are the rules/considerations nailing a top plate into the bottom flange of a BCI I-joist? They manufacturer is pretty clear about not modifying the flanges
As far as I can tell as long as you are in the center of the joist with the nail I don’t think there is an issue. However I can’t say for sure. I do know 8d nails 2 1/2” long are used however.
That is so that you have half the 2x to attach the perpendicular wall to, and half the 2x for drywall. Basically it’s meant to make sure you have somewhere for drywall to attach. I think it’s called a California corner if I remember correct. There are other ways of doing corners this is just quick easy and works great.
For a basement you can but I don’t think it’s necessary. That’s for insulation and creating a good seal between the foundation and bottom plate. So it won’t hurt anything but it’s not going to gain too much I don’t think. Just a little more seal to the floor.
On the wall built over the 1/2 foundation wall with the hard foam insulation on the bottom and the batt on the top. Do you insulate the new wall and add a vapor barrier over that before sheet rocking? Or are you relying on the excising faced insulation for the barrier?
You can add more insulation if you’d like, but I think it has to be unfaced if you add another vapor barrier it’ll trap moisture in between the layers. I’ve never actually seen that happen or a problem with it but I have heard of that being an issue from various people over the years.
As per "homes on homes show", First build 2x4 wall and leave space between studs and concrete, Then spray foam "closed cell", You will have a vapor barrier & insulation, 100% coverage. Your method, the walls will sweat! th-cam.com/video/vwNYL9q287s/w-d-xo.html @ 31:25 th-cam.com/video/PUsUG6d47eQ/w-d-xo.html
I believe you are to apply the adhesive in straight lines up and down, this allowed for any water/moisture to travel down in-between the foundation and foam insulation.
Great video, thanks! Two questions: 1. Can I use treated wood for the whole thing including vertical studs? I have a stone foundation, and the walls breathe and release dampness. 2. When you directly glued the pink insulation, didn't you essentially seal your foundation and now it can't breathe? Won't you now have mold problems and deterioration since moisture will be trapped?
Treated wood yes that’s fine. And as for the insulation I may have misspoke when I was talking of how it breathed and what not. There shouldn’t be mold problems as I’ve never had an issue come back up. My home is made of 13” concrete blocks and I insulated and framed the whole house with the same principle all around it’s been over ten years and I’ve done a few revamps checking on the walls and have found no issues yet.
the thing with concrete below grade is that the soil is almost 100% relative humidity, so moisture wicks/dries inward from the outside. so you aren't really worried about the concrete being able to "breathe" per se, because there's nowhere for that moisture to go on the outside. i think the key here is warming up the concrete wall so you decrease the temperature differential and thus decrease the amount of condensation.
Put the blue foam board on the exterior and bury it below grade. Score it and cover with stucco. Paint the inside with waterproof basement paint. 2" inches thick and two feet below grade. Use patio blocks to hold foam board in place until the construction adhesive dries.
@buildingwithbobby It also looks nice to use white stain on the basement rafters. You don't need to paint the entire board but just the first four inches. Stain the entire board if there is light fixture perhaps. I think this method uses less material and possibly less labor. The basement waterproof paint is great at reducing humidity and dampness as well as reflecting light and making it brighter.
This is a hard topic to research and search for...I have a 'Basement Systems' interior moisture mitigation system that has a permanent/durable drip-plane barrier attached to the concrete wall. There is also 2x4 water channel pipe around the interior wall base, covered over with contcrete which leveled it with the existing floor. If I frame out the walls for a basement finish- do I just bring the framing away from the concrete walls by about 8"-12" (enough to avoiding the water channeling pipe)? And would I be able to still put some insulation between the wall studs? I wouldn't want there to be a condensation problem between the concrete wall and the newly framed wall.
I’ve seen those systems before yep. For the framing I’d say as long as you’re not directly over the channel you’d be fine. Even if you came out past the concrete foundation enough that half the bottom plate was past the channel I think it’d be fine. If you think about it the wall isn’t really supporting anything other than the drywall. So it shouldn’t push too hard on the channel regardless. As for the insulation I can’t say I know exactly what’s ok or not. If it’s like the systems I’ve seen before they didn’t really fix the leak they just gave the water a place to go instead of your floor. That being said as long as the insulation doesn’t get wet it should be fine whatever you use. The moisture should be contained behind the barrier.
I have the perimeter drainage system in a trench under the concrete as well, with a poly liner that runs up the concrete wall. I false-framed about a 1/2" out from the poly liner up the wall. To attach the sill plate I used liquid nail since you can't penetrate the concrete floor above the trench drain. I secured the top plate with nails as usual. It's sturdy enough to hold drywall.
It’s not going to hurt anything to use a water proofer like that. That paint goes into the pores of the block and actually fills them instead of just a top coat sealer that stays on the surface. My home is 130 years old made out of block and I sealed some of the walls before framing and I didn’t seal others just because of cost. I have had no issues on either of them. As long as it’s not damp or anything throughout the year I’d say you’re fine either way.
ALWAYS add a vapor barrier below that pressure treated 2x4 bottom plate. The concrete will always pull in moisture through capillary action. Sill sealer or ice and water guard or zip tape whatever even thick plastic works. Otherwise over the years you will see wicking and eventually water stains. Cheap easy necessary step.
I did not do any fire blocking no. I always thought fire block was needed when you went from one room to another or from below to above in homes. You seal all the holes and such with fire block foam to prevent the spread. This build other than drywall on the ceiling not sure any fire block was needed.
@@buildingwithbobby Fire blocking is definitely required and can add a great deal of extra work in order to comply with recent building codes. However, if you did not file for a permit then your work will never be subject to inspection until you sell your home.
Likewise, depending upon how strict your building code enforcement is, you have to build a “fire rated assembly”. Just any spray foam for fire blocking will not suffice. And the thickness of the floor matters as well as the type and thickness of drywall. Any joining walls to the ceiling assembly must also account for fire blocking and fire stopping (two different things).
What do you base the wall layout on? My longest, and by chance exterior, wall is about 3/4" out of square. Do i account for that when laying down my walls and make them square to the other side or make them parralel to the longest wall in my rectangular house?
I’m not sure that one is better than the other to be honest. If you’re putting a subfloor type thing I’d run it square, if your just finishing the wall and adding carpet I don’t really think it’ll matter and you’ll be the only one to know.
Thanks for the video.. appreciate it.. few question. 1.) if there is a leak somewhere.. That would damage what you are working on.. what is other option ? Can we tile directly on the basement wall?
Uh I guess I don’t understand. If there is a leak anything you put in will be damaged yes. I guess you could paint everything before you put it in to help make the damage less, but that seems like a ton of extra work. As for the tile you can tile directly on drywall. I would though make sure your basement’s humidity is at a stable level or the drywall under the tile could get mushy and then it’ll come apart on you.
@@buildingwithbobby Sorry I wasn't clear.. When I was shopping for new house.. I have seen many new house with finish basement.. definitely it will looks nice. very clean and complete... But I always had a concern.. how does the actual basement wall looks like.. Any cracks, sign of leaks.. etc... No way to inspect behind drywall. what is good option for finishing your basement without covering your walls with drywall? I had house 5 years back. Partially finished basement. And they used brick template for concrete pour. And that left the wall with brick pattern.. Very nice idea. You can just paint that and it will/should look nice and clean. My actual question was.. Can we title directly on the concrete wall? Or will there be issues with moisture? Appreciate you taking your time out and replying.
Yes you are correct there really is no good way to see behind the finished framed up wall. That is just a risk you take covering it up. As long as your home was built properly and you take the proper precautions to protect from those concerns you should be fine. I have never come across tile directly on the foundation, I would be concerned with moisture for sure.
I once used masonry nails. You drive them with a hammer, but it is pretty difficult. It worked, I was skeptical. It has now almost been 20 years and the wall is still where it needs to be.
About to start a basement project, do you think it’s necessary to get a design architect to produce 3-D renderings and MEP structural blueprints and such? 3k, not sure I want to do this, but if putting in a bedroom and shower, will I benefit from such services?
In your basement? I’m sure technically those things would be beneficial in one way or another, but if you’re adding walls to an empty space then none of your new walls are structural or load bearing. They are just there to give the area a shape basically. The renderings and stuff could help with plumbing and electrical maybe. Code and stuff for your area may be a bit more strict than mine. If it was my basement I wouldn’t get all that done no.
@@buildingwithbobby Yes, it’s for my basement, and although I’m pretty handy, I’ve hired a framer and purchased the wood, it’s just the design we’re not hundred percent sure about, and where to place what and what works best for the space. We have a floor plan that someone else designed, but wanting to get some better ideas and change a few things. thought the service they provide would help with all the small details. Not sure about submitting for permits, or having inspections, I will definitely get electrical inspection to make sure everything is safe. It would be great if there was a service that someone could look at a floorplan and pictures or a walk-through video to give design ideas.
How far away from the insulation do you put your chalk line? I'm about to start a project and have that half-upper wall insulation going around my entire basement. I head it was 5 inches from the concrete, but wanted to know your thoughts. (Our building codes don't specify)
You really only need a 1/2" from the foundation and insulation. So if you use a 2x4 wall your chalk line should be at least 4" away from the wall. So I'd say anywhere from 4" to 5" is fine. I hope that helps and best of luck with the project!
I plan to add foam boards to my basement concrete walls like in your video. Why did you use 1inch instead of 2? After researching for several days, it seems like 2 inches is recommended. The pricing on the board is ridiculous. there's a shortage. It's hard for me to pay $64 in the southern region for one board. Eps is half the price, but im not sure if it's worth it over xps.
i notice you only put rigid foam on the below-grade section of wall. are you worried about the warm inside air condensing onto the upper half of the wall? or is this only an issue on the below grade section of the wall?
Measure twice and cut once is wrong wrong wrong. The proper way is to measure two different ways and then cut. When you measure the same way twice you are likely to make the same mistake twice. When you measure two different ways you are more likely to catch a mistake.
I’ve never thought of it that way, but I do measure from different way on a lot of my furniture pieces to make sure it all correct. So yes that makes a lot of sense!
1:48 - I have no idea what you're saying here. How do you measure 16" from that initial 15 3/4 and then the image skips over the X and measures 16" out from there, not on the line of 15 3/4
Being plumb is just ensuring the wall is vertical and level up and down. Just attach the bottom or top of the wall where you want it, grab a level and adjust the wall till it’s level and attach. Now you have a plumb wall.
if its a king stud or jack stud you have to make it sledge hammer tight...92. 3/16 will leave 1/32 inch gap = fail inspection, 92. 1/4 hammer tight = pass, use level on all 3 sides
@@Woji52 ok, heavy horizontal beam above you 8 feet high, you want to put another vertical beam in, cut it 8 feet + 1/64 inch or 1/32 inch longer...it wont fit cuz its to long, so put the top side up first.....the long bottom will stick out sideways around 3 inch cuz its to tall... well when you jam it in, then you sledge hammer hit the bittom part sticking out 3 inches, with each medium hard sledge hammer hit it will go in around an 1 inch, so 3 taps the vertical beam is in super tight and definately carry ing a load weight..good..thats called sledge hammer tight, there is also just hammer tight...then wood cracking tight, thats a little to hard
My issue doing it this way is that the height of the wall will be lower and higher in different places…..How will this work??? Houses settle in different spots after years
Yea some areas settle different than others most basements do drop ceilings to hide all your homes wiring and plumbing also to give access to them. With a drop ceiling you start a fresh level line lower than your lowest stud to hide any differences. Framing a wall in your basement isn’t framing a support wall so it should be fine.
No real reason, we just went that route. Nail guns are faster but they both get the job done. Nails have better strength in some areas and screws do in others, they will both do just fine in a basement wall though.
@@buildingwithbobby I'm about to start on my basement, which did you think would be easier/faster, screws with a high-quality impact driver, or nails with a framing hammer? A nail gun isn't an option for me
If I remember right I think the knee wall wasn’t flush with the foundation wall. So we would have had to add some framing to even it up before adding the foam. It was already insulated with fiberglass batts so it should be good to go.
I appreciate the video, informative....but what is with peoples ultra-short attention span? I mean....5 min? That is all people are good for? I would have just enjoyed something a bit more detailed and time-lapsed. I get it, there's an Algorithm that content creators should adhere to, but it's getting ridiculous the length of videos...or s should I say "the lack thereof). hehehehe. But still informative video!
I appreciate the comment! I love feedback like this because it helps me to create better content. I have a NEW video coming soon showing how to Frame a Bedroom Wall and that video is going to be looong and more detailed.
Biggest take away from todays video is that working with your friends is more fun. Let me know if we should ask Alan to be in more build videos.
It may be more fun but unfortunately when I work with my friends I end up goofing off more than working lol
🤣so true@@battlefrontnews4035
I enjoyed your detailed commentary and delivery. Well done!
Thank you! 🙏🏻
Another thing is when you are satisfied with your layout on your bottom plate, put your top plate right next to it and use your speed square to transfer the layout so it’s the same, rather than using your tape measure to layout the other plates
For sure! Thanks for reaching out
Layout is difficult for new carpenters and diyers. A good way you can double check your work is remember your sheet material is 4’ whether it’s Sheetrock or plywood or whatever. So before you start shooting on your studs hook your tape and pull 4’, 8’ etc and make sure a stud lands in the middle of each of those measurements.
That is a great tip!
Just curious, wouldn't you want to tape of the seems of the foam board to make it a solid vapour barrier? What about the upper portion of the exterior wall, do you not put up plastic or some form of vapour barrier? Thanks
Well technically I miss spoke about the foam board being a vapor barrier. You could seal the seams with tape to make a complete seal for sure and it would help some. As for the upper part of the wall that part is above grade so it is just like a normal wall framed up with fiberglass insulation and a craft face as a vapor barrier. I hope this helps.
Thanks Bobby! We're building a wall today and that helped a lot!
Glad I was able to help a little. You got this!
Awesome job!
Thank you! 🙌🏻
what are the rules/considerations nailing a top plate into the bottom flange of a BCI I-joist? They manufacturer is pretty clear about not modifying the flanges
As far as I can tell as long as you are in the center of the joist with the nail I don’t think there is an issue. However I can’t say for sure. I do know 8d nails 2 1/2” long are used however.
2:48 why is there a stud facing the opposite direction of the other ? Is it because there’s rhe corner ? Do we need to do this at every corner ?
That is so that you have half the 2x to attach the perpendicular wall to, and half the 2x for drywall. Basically it’s meant to make sure you have somewhere for drywall to attach. I think it’s called a California corner if I remember correct. There are other ways of doing corners this is just quick easy and works great.
Great video thank you. I’m curious do you need sill gasket below the pressure treated baseplate? I’ve heard yes and no. Thank you
For a basement you can but I don’t think it’s necessary. That’s for insulation and creating a good seal between the foundation and bottom plate. So it won’t hurt anything but it’s not going to gain too much I don’t think. Just a little more seal to the floor.
On the wall built over the 1/2 foundation wall with the hard foam insulation on the bottom and the batt on the top. Do you insulate the new wall and add a vapor barrier over that before sheet rocking? Or are you relying on the excising faced insulation for the barrier?
You can add more insulation if you’d like, but I think it has to be unfaced if you add another vapor barrier it’ll trap moisture in between the layers. I’ve never actually seen that happen or a problem with it but I have heard of that being an issue from various people over the years.
How is the foam a vapor barrier and allowing the concert breath? You get one or the other not both.
That’s why they invented the foam sheets DIPSHIT
Yep you are correct. I misspoke there, so best to watch without the sound on to anyone reading this. Sincerely, Bobby's slow brain and fast mouth 👍
As per "homes on homes show", First build 2x4 wall and leave space between studs and concrete,
Then spray foam "closed cell", You will have a vapor barrier & insulation, 100% coverage.
Your method, the walls will sweat!
th-cam.com/video/vwNYL9q287s/w-d-xo.html @ 31:25
th-cam.com/video/PUsUG6d47eQ/w-d-xo.html
I believe you are to apply the adhesive in straight lines up and down, this allowed for any water/moisture to travel down in-between the foundation and foam insulation.
Do you even need to apply the adhesive?
Great video, thanks! Two questions:
1. Can I use treated wood for the whole thing including vertical studs? I have a stone foundation, and the walls breathe and release dampness.
2. When you directly glued the pink insulation, didn't you essentially seal your foundation and now it can't breathe? Won't you now have mold problems and deterioration since moisture will be trapped?
Treated wood yes that’s fine. And as for the insulation I may have misspoke when I was talking of how it breathed and what not. There shouldn’t be mold problems as I’ve never had an issue come back up. My home is made of 13” concrete blocks and I insulated and framed the whole house with the same principle all around it’s been over ten years and I’ve done a few revamps checking on the walls and have found no issues yet.
the thing with concrete below grade is that the soil is almost 100% relative humidity, so moisture wicks/dries inward from the outside. so you aren't really worried about the concrete being able to "breathe" per se, because there's nowhere for that moisture to go on the outside. i think the key here is warming up the concrete wall so you decrease the temperature differential and thus decrease the amount of condensation.
Put the blue foam board on the exterior and bury it below grade. Score it and cover with stucco. Paint the inside with waterproof basement paint. 2" inches thick and two feet below grade. Use patio blocks to hold foam board in place until the construction adhesive dries.
Sounds like it would work out just fine!
@buildingwithbobby It also looks nice to use white stain on the basement rafters. You don't need to paint the entire board but just the first four inches. Stain the entire board if there is light fixture perhaps. I think this method uses less material and possibly less labor. The basement waterproof paint is great at reducing humidity and dampness as well as reflecting light and making it brighter.
Great job!
Thank you!
This is a hard topic to research and search for...I have a 'Basement Systems' interior moisture mitigation system that has a permanent/durable drip-plane barrier attached to the concrete wall. There is also 2x4 water channel pipe around the interior wall base, covered over with contcrete which leveled it with the existing floor.
If I frame out the walls for a basement finish- do I just bring the framing away from the concrete walls by about 8"-12" (enough to avoiding the water channeling pipe)? And would I be able to still put some insulation between the wall studs? I wouldn't want there to be a condensation problem between the concrete wall and the newly framed wall.
I’ve seen those systems before yep. For the framing I’d say as long as you’re not directly over the channel you’d be fine. Even if you came out past the concrete foundation enough that half the bottom plate was past the channel I think it’d be fine. If you think about it the wall isn’t really supporting anything other than the drywall. So it shouldn’t push too hard on the channel regardless. As for the insulation I can’t say I know exactly what’s ok or not. If it’s like the systems I’ve seen before they didn’t really fix the leak they just gave the water a place to go instead of your floor. That being said as long as the insulation doesn’t get wet it should be fine whatever you use. The moisture should be contained behind the barrier.
I have the perimeter drainage system in a trench under the concrete as well, with a poly liner that runs up the concrete wall. I false-framed about a 1/2" out from the poly liner up the wall. To attach the sill plate I used liquid nail since you can't penetrate the concrete floor above the trench drain. I secured the top plate with nails as usual. It's sturdy enough to hold drywall.
I've got bare cinder blocks. Do I need to "Loctite" or "Seal" them before adding foam board?
Forgot to mention, my basement is above ground - split foyer.
It’s not going to hurt anything to use a water proofer like that. That paint goes into the pores of the block and actually fills them instead of just a top coat sealer that stays on the surface. My home is 130 years old made out of block and I sealed some of the walls before framing and I didn’t seal others just because of cost. I have had no issues on either of them. As long as it’s not damp or anything throughout the year I’d say you’re fine either way.
enjoyed this
🙌🙌🙌
ALWAYS add a vapor barrier below that pressure treated 2x4 bottom plate. The concrete will always pull in moisture through capillary action. Sill sealer or ice and water guard or zip tape whatever even thick plastic works. Otherwise over the years you will see wicking and eventually water stains. Cheap easy necessary step.
Good to know thank you!!
Not necessary at all.
House is from the 80s pressure treated is holding up well after 44 years
Wouldn’t that just cause unnecessary sweating?
They build docks over saltwater with PT. It will be fine on your floor.
Nice clean job but if you get it inspected there may be an issue with fireblocking. I didn’t see you addressing this critical step.
I did not do any fire blocking no. I always thought fire block was needed when you went from one room to another or from below to above in homes. You seal all the holes and such with fire block foam to prevent the spread. This build other than drywall on the ceiling not sure any fire block was needed.
@@buildingwithbobby Fire blocking is definitely required and can add a great deal of extra work in order to comply with recent building codes. However, if you did not file for a permit then your work will never be subject to inspection until you sell your home.
Likewise, depending upon how strict your building code enforcement is, you have to build a “fire rated assembly”. Just any spray foam for fire blocking will not suffice. And the thickness of the floor matters as well as the type and thickness of drywall. Any joining walls to the ceiling assembly must also account for fire blocking and fire stopping (two different things).
@@Trainman0401 who's going to inspect? Certainly not the county and even private home inspections aren't thorough
What do you base the wall layout on? My longest, and by chance exterior, wall is about 3/4" out of square. Do i account for that when laying down my walls and make them square to the other side or make them parralel to the longest wall in my rectangular house?
I’m not sure that one is better than the other to be honest. If you’re putting a subfloor type thing I’d run it square, if your just finishing the wall and adding carpet I don’t really think it’ll matter and you’ll be the only one to know.
Thanks for the video.. appreciate it.. few question. 1.) if there is a leak somewhere.. That would damage what you are working on.. what is other option ? Can we tile directly on the basement wall?
Uh I guess I don’t understand. If there is a leak anything you put in will be damaged yes. I guess you could paint everything before you put it in to help make the damage less, but that seems like a ton of extra work.
As for the tile you can tile directly on drywall. I would though make sure your basement’s humidity is at a stable level or the drywall under the tile could get mushy and then it’ll come apart on you.
@@buildingwithbobby Sorry I wasn't clear.. When I was shopping for new house.. I have seen many new house with finish basement.. definitely it will looks nice. very clean and complete... But I always had a concern.. how does the actual basement wall looks like.. Any cracks, sign of leaks.. etc... No way to inspect behind drywall. what is good option for finishing your basement without covering your walls with drywall? I had house 5 years back. Partially finished basement. And they used brick template for concrete pour. And that left the wall with brick pattern.. Very nice idea. You can just paint that and it will/should look nice and clean. My actual question was.. Can we title directly on the concrete wall? Or will there be issues with moisture? Appreciate you taking your time out and replying.
Yes you are correct there really is no good way to see behind the finished framed up wall. That is just a risk you take covering it up. As long as your home was built properly and you take the proper precautions to protect from those concerns you should be fine.
I have never come across tile directly on the foundation, I would be concerned with moisture for sure.
3:22 check for *plumb 😉
Words are words ha they work just the same ha!
in california and international resident code requires vapor barrier between concrete floor and bottom plate
Right on. Good to know!
@@buildingwithbobby california is viscious with codes!, but do it right and no tear down regrets later!!!!🌝
How do u measure out you interiors walls lines what more do u add or take off for that measurement
If I’m understanding your question correctly. You subtract 3 1/2 inches per interior wall that you’re trying to go in between.
Is there a way to add the frames to the floor without drilling a hole in the concrete?
I once used masonry nails. You drive them with a hammer, but it is pretty difficult. It worked, I was skeptical. It has now almost been 20 years and the wall is still where it needs to be.
You can glue them down with liquid nail but anchor is best
About to start a basement project, do you think it’s necessary to get a design architect to produce 3-D renderings and MEP structural blueprints and such? 3k, not sure I want to do this, but if putting in a bedroom and shower, will I benefit from such services?
In your basement? I’m sure technically those things would be beneficial in one way or another, but if you’re adding walls to an empty space then none of your new walls are structural or load bearing. They are just there to give the area a shape basically. The renderings and stuff could help with plumbing and electrical maybe. Code and stuff for your area may be a bit more strict than mine. If it was my basement I wouldn’t get all that done no.
@@buildingwithbobby
Yes, it’s for my basement, and although I’m pretty handy, I’ve hired a framer and purchased the wood, it’s just the design we’re not hundred percent sure about, and where to place what and what works best for the space. We have a floor plan that someone else designed, but wanting to get some better ideas and change a few things. thought the service they provide would help with all the small details. Not sure about submitting for permits, or having inspections, I will definitely get electrical inspection to make sure everything is safe.
It would be great if there was a service that someone could look at a floorplan and pictures or a walk-through video to give design ideas.
How far away from the insulation do you put your chalk line? I'm about to start a project and have that half-upper wall insulation going around my entire basement. I head it was 5 inches from the concrete, but wanted to know your thoughts. (Our building codes don't specify)
You really only need a 1/2" from the foundation and insulation. So if you use a 2x4 wall your chalk line should be at least 4" away from the wall. So I'd say anywhere from 4" to 5" is fine. I hope that helps and best of luck with the project!
Thanks man!!
@@MStoff88 you're welcome!
@RaymondTusk74as long as the wall is perfectly plumb
@RaymondTusk74 yeah idk abt that, foundation walls are very rarely PERFECT lol.
I plan to add foam boards to my basement concrete walls like in your video. Why did you use 1inch instead of 2? After researching for several days, it seems like 2 inches is recommended. The pricing on the board is ridiculous. there's a shortage. It's hard for me to pay $64 in the southern region for one board. Eps is half the price, but im not sure if it's worth it over xps.
2” as far as I’m aware is just a better r value. EPS is such a mess.
Love that you used screws for everything!
You might be the only person who does 😂🙌🏻🙏🏻
@@buildingwithbobbyhe is 😂
@@mrdavis2928Nope. I always build with screws, my entire deck, lawnmower shed, etc.
i notice you only put rigid foam on the below-grade section of wall. are you worried about the warm inside air condensing onto the upper half of the wall? or is this only an issue on the below grade section of the wall?
It shouldn’t it was insulated there on the knee wall.
what do you attach the foam/insulation board to?
Directly to the foundation wall
Half cabs add to performance score
Only the best for my feet!
What the hell are you clarifying on the Pro Tip at 2:02?
How to layout your studs on a typical wall.
Measure twice and cut once is wrong wrong wrong. The proper way is to measure two different ways and then cut. When you measure the same way twice you are likely to make the same mistake twice. When you measure two different ways you are more likely to catch a mistake.
I’ve never thought of it that way, but I do measure from different way on a lot of my furniture pieces to make sure it all correct. So yes that makes a lot of sense!
1:48 - I have no idea what you're saying here. How do you measure 16" from that initial 15 3/4 and then the image skips over the X and measures 16" out from there, not on the line of 15 3/4
15 3/4" is where the side of the stud goes, putting 16" on center for each stud. If I understand what you're asking.
I dont understand how you plumbed cam you please explain
Being plumb is just ensuring the wall is vertical and level up and down. Just attach the bottom or top of the wall where you want it, grab a level and adjust the wall till it’s level and attach. Now you have a plumb wall.
@buildingwithbobby thank you sorry for the dumb question
Love the video! Question: did you use 2x4x8 or 2x4x12? Is there a benefit over using one over another?
Most of the 2x was 8’. Longer lengths would be used for longer top and bottom plates. You can use any length you need for your wall height.
if its a king stud or jack stud you have to make it sledge hammer tight...92. 3/16 will leave 1/32 inch gap = fail inspection, 92. 1/4 hammer tight = pass, use level on all 3 sides
@@lunam7249 hey buddy. can you explain what you mean by this as if I am a 5 year old?
@@Woji52 ok, heavy horizontal beam above you 8 feet high, you want to put another vertical beam in, cut it 8 feet + 1/64 inch or 1/32 inch longer...it wont fit cuz its to long, so put the top side up first.....the long bottom will stick out sideways around 3 inch cuz its to tall... well when you jam it in, then you sledge hammer hit the bittom part sticking out 3 inches, with each medium hard sledge hammer hit it will go in around an 1 inch, so 3 taps the vertical beam is in super tight and definately carry ing a load weight..good..thats called sledge hammer tight, there is also just hammer tight...then wood cracking tight, thats a little to hard
"That's your thumbnail right there"
😂 he was so right
My issue doing it this way is that the height of the wall will be lower and higher in different places…..How will this work??? Houses settle in different spots after years
Yea some areas settle different than others most basements do drop ceilings to hide all your homes wiring and plumbing also to give access to them. With a drop ceiling you start a fresh level line lower than your lowest stud to hide any differences. Framing a wall in your basement isn’t framing a support wall so it should be fine.
No ramset??
No ramset
Any reason framing was all done with screws and not nails? Seems like a waste of time and money, unless I'm missing something...
No real reason, we just went that route. Nail guns are faster but they both get the job done. Nails have better strength in some areas and screws do in others, they will both do just fine in a basement wall though.
@@buildingwithbobby I'm about to start on my basement, which did you think would be easier/faster, screws with a high-quality impact driver, or nails with a framing hammer? A nail gun isn't an option for me
Why not foam board up the entire wall? Great video.
If I remember right I think the knee wall wasn’t flush with the foundation wall. So we would have had to add some framing to even it up before adding the foam. It was already insulated with fiberglass batts so it should be good to go.
For beginners huh? So much instruction in this video it's insane!
Doesn’t take much to frame a wall!!!
Who cut off their finger?
That would be me! They were able to stitch it back on but it only kind of works. So that is known as my dumb finger.
@@buildingwithbobby I remember the "finger glove" at the Lowes.
Why aren't they not leaving room for expansion basement floors have a tendency of rising
I have legitimately never heard of that ever out of the 20 years of doing this. I will remember that’s thank you
@buildingwithbobby THE REASON FOR LEAVING ROOM FOR THE EXPANSION IS THE TYPE OF SOIL IF IT HAS CLAY MINERALS WILL SWELL WHEN WET AND SHRINKS WHEN DRY
I appreciate the video, informative....but what is with peoples ultra-short attention span? I mean....5 min? That is all people are good for? I would have just enjoyed something a bit more detailed and time-lapsed. I get it, there's an Algorithm that content creators should adhere to, but it's getting ridiculous the length of videos...or s should I say "the lack thereof). hehehehe. But still informative video!
I appreciate the comment! I love feedback like this because it helps me to create better content. I have a NEW video coming soon showing how to Frame a Bedroom Wall and that video is going to be looong and more detailed.
Almost had a seizure from the rapid changing of video clips. Way too fast paced to have learned anything.
What can I slow down for you?
You lost me when you used screws on the wall framing instead of nails
Nails or screws it'll hold together!
Basement walls, non load bearing. Why nails?
Much faster to shoot nails in.... Would have saved you time and money
Nails have a stronger shear rating.
@@jaya2097It’s a basement wall…. How much shear strength do you think you’ll need?