DO NOT USE A THERMAL PAD BEHIND THE GPU/CPU. It has been known to add additional flex which may damage solder connections after enough heat cycling, or possibly crack the die. Use thermal putty instead, all the thermal transfer with none of the stress.
@@Nascar1243 How did you come to that conclusion? Thermal putty deforms to whatever solid surfaces it interfaces with, it doesn't push back to cause the PCB flex issues that causes the documented CPU/GPU failure. It resolves the all of the failings of the thermal pad, and is completely safe.
@@DrivingVertigo just because it deforms to a solid surface doesn’t mean it’s good for it, where do you think all of that material goes and how do you think it deforms. It has to put pressure on it from the back of the cell in order to actually do anything to the putty. The best method is to use a plastic bracer that was made specifically by Sony to go behind the cell and was redesigned by RIP-Felix to work and brace the back of the cell and give it even pressure with the metal shield. Thermal putty is no safer than a thermal pad.
@@ayamaprantenna I find this to not be the case as whenever I spread it thin on a ps3 it does not make nearly as good of contact as if I were to just put 5 dots or any kind of pattern on the IHS. But the main point is to not use anything behind the cpu or GPU like they did in the video. Not unless it was something that was designed by Sony which a guy named RIP-Felix has redesigned and doesn’t apply pressure but braces it. It was never designed for a pad at all if you mean that square behind the cell. That was never its intention and should never be used on any kind of cpu on any motherboard as that is putting pressure on the die, potentially risking the die to crack due to stress.
@@ayamaprantenna it’s very difficult for you to actually break the bga on the chips by accidentally kicking the device if you really look at it, now on the early models it was actually a defect in the chip like the Xbox 360, this was covered and figured out to be factual on many devices that had the 90nm process. Later models with a 65nm RSX were likely bga on either RSX or cell though as I have seen that myself but on early models you will see people barely touch their consoles and they will die, that’s because once the RSX goes above that threshold the underfill becomes soft, allowing the chip to flex. The IHS protected it though along with the fact the cell ran hotter on the ps3, so the RSX rarely hit the 70c threshold of the underfill.
BE careful on Power Supply AND the WIFI BLUETOTH SCREWS if you PUT the Longer Screw on Power Supply CLoser to the 12v Connector where you shall put the smallest Screw, The Longer Screw WILL Make an SEVERE DAMAGE to THE MAINBOARD INternal Traces Which its IMpossible to REpair, Be Aware of SCrew lengths on PS3 Fat!!!!!
Ooooo just having the original PS2 emotion chip makes it so interesting. Recently I’ve been thinking my next console will be a PS2. Never played 1, 2, or 3. So many good games, it’s worth the effort you put in. Thanks for the video, solid editing, great audio.
Anyone else notice that the chip he used the painters knife on was already removed before he recorded that. You can see it moving as he tries to hold it in place. If you're going to show us then show us, don't do it off camera and then recreate it.
With custom firmware you can run PS2 games on a PS3 Slim. CECH20xxA/B models can do it, but it requires more work so your games could run. You could run custom firmware on CECH 25xxA/B PS3 Slim models, but some consoles can run custom firmware, others can’t, which makes the CECH 25xxA/B a gamble if you’re looking to run custom firmware.
From information I've gathered, CECH25XXA/B before 2011 should work, haven't gone through with the jailbreak yet, gotta get to my PS3 which is at my parents house (I didn't play it until around 5months ago when the PS3 craze came unknowingly to me)
@@luckgrip252 For me I bought a used ps3 slim CECH20xxA for a great price of $50. Worked good, was well maintained, came with all cables too. The owner just wanted it gone.
Honestly i own a CECHC 60GB PS3 (Only has the PS2 GPU, CPU is emulated) and a regular 80GB CECHK non backwards compatible, unless you want to run PS2 games from the disc (wouldn't recommend due to laser strain) or use PS2 peripherals, it's not really worth the hassle, PS2 emulation works really good on CFW/HEN consoles, many games have a config file allowing it to work properly, sure sometimes they have slowdowns or little graphic issues, but most popular games will run just fine.
Your video is pretty good after all, very well made, excellent quality, everything fine!!!! Liked the video alot after watching again, just your theoretical knowledge about PS3 Repair that you need to improve, also painters knife is like wise one of the safest tool to remove Cell IHS, absolutely Cool.
Having a PS3 FAT, sitting years in my tv-bench. Broken discdrive (new now ordered), CFW (how will I get back official firmware on this bastard?) and dusty as hell. Feeling for some restoration after seeing your video. Thanks for the inspiration man!
I picked up a CECHA06 with matching original controller in amazing condition about 2 years back... It is the centre of our home entertainment system. How bad was the thermal paste under the lids? I didn't see any in the video, but I assumed you wiped it off.
Have a CECHA01 arriving this Friday (it's Tuesday as of typing this), and I plan to do everything you did here except deliding. I don't trust myself to do that process. Also question, I see you have MX-4 thermal paste, but do you think MX-6 is good, too? I have some MX-6 left and was just going to use that but will order different thermal paste if it's deemed a good option.
@@Seabei When you delidded both the cell and rsx chips they both have heat spreaders. On the rsx it has the die in the middle and four chips around it. They originally had paste on them is what I'm talking about.
@@Seabei yeah and that material is what is used to glue heatsinks on mosfets for example, just a piece of mind open it up and add some thermal paste(non conductive ) on them as well, you will thank me later ( and yea less is not better when it comes to thermal paste aplication with more you cannot fuck up with cheaping out you can lose couple of degreese (celsius) )
Has anyone come up with an external power supply mod for these models yet? I'm really just here waiting for the modding community to come up with cool longevity extending stuff😅
Why didn't you glue the IHS for those chips? Even just a little clear glue on the four corners just to hold them in place while you re-connect up the cooling aparatus?
Power supply swap?? Tell me more. got a CECHC03 (CECHE01) runs a little hot, heard 3 fan stages, but it’s working as it goes back down to 2nd gear, considering it’s in really good condition and the warranty sticker is untouched I’m expecting it to die. Unless it’s a Sony refurbished one where they swapped the RSX chips, I dunno it’s off eBay. But reducing any heat in the ps3 is worth doing.
I recommend getting an external fan speed control from CircuitSurgery if you don't want to have a Jailbroken system. If you leave default SYSCON fan control from Sony, all BC PS3 systems will die no matter what :(. Unless you change 90nm RSX for 65nm or 40nm.
I was looking into that mod but i didn't want to alter the the original console in any way as I have this not just to play but a nice display piece for my PlayStation collection
IHS should always be soldered to the chip. I hate when manufacturers use thermal paste instead it's guaranteed to cause problems at some point. How much more can it cost?
Bro if you want to make claims on your channel about hardware repair or PS3 or anything else you can do OK, BUT PLEASE STUDY, PLEASE STUDY, PLEASE BE SURE OF WHAT YOU TALKING, thats all!!! CHeers!
If you have not or never serviced a console or opened a console like ps2/3 then please don't do it yourself. Especially he delid. You'll definitely end up killing the console.
RSX IHS comes off with a rework station but the Cell needs cutting, the glue can be cut using fishing wire it's the safest method just don't put pressure onto the board.
nice guide video. you can use external pc atx power suplly to power ps3 console without any problem at all with one transistor or one optocouppler two resistor and some rewairing and soldering console think that original ps power is instaled atx acting like in normal pc. but you need to keep original power supply case inside console for air flow and mod connection on +12V and power/standby connector (4 or 5 pin connector from original power supply to ps3 motherboard) needs to be extended to atx case for full working support. I can draw you a schematics or give you guidence or google ps3 atx mod...
This atx mod was firstly done for (PS3 cech-2004b) that was bouth online for parts came in very bad condition full with dust and nests of bugs and mold inside case. power supply was fill with dead baked bugs case was vandalise bd-rom was cracked. motherboard was air cleaned and bath in alcohol 3 times for smell and dead bugs parts. I was trying to fix power supply and resolder entire board changing all caps with no luck.I need +12V/15A just to test the motherboard and use some old atx 500W that was laying around. cut all connectors and use five yellow wires and five black wires and put on them crocodile clips so I can easy give power to motherboard without puting all in case with original power supply that I don`t have just for testing. with google on my side datasheet for atx and data sheet for ps3 motherboard I found that I need to "give" ps motherboard +5V standby constant power that have in original system and power led turns on red moment of happines and joy. When you press power on button try to go green and go red again. then I try to power atx (green wire shorted with black wire) gave 12V to motherboard gave 5V standby power and it fire up go in green and starting to boot...Now I use industrial DIN mount schneider ssl1d03jd optocuppler from 3 to 12V to use 3.3V that motherboard gave me to that 4/5 pin connector for green mode power on to short green black wire and it works console need 5V stdby power (just like in pc lol) when you press power on button motherboard give +3.3V output on signal to input of optocuppler that shorts output of optocuppler green/black wire and tell atx to power on. the atx see no diference the ps3 motherboard see no diference or any issue at all. with help of a google I was found that sombudy allready made it (PS3 ATX mod) before me and use 10 times cheeper and 5 times smaller optocupler then me (the crew use optocuppler that was inside original power supply in the moment I take one of four put one resistor on the input of optocuppler 680 - 1K solder directly green black wire at the output of optocupler and works, going further testing with other chepper optocuppler pc817 works...
DUDE WHY DOES EVERYONE THINK you need a og original 20 gb or 40 gb or 60 gb ps3 phat backwards compatible i use a ps3 slim i jail break my slim and super slim both play ps2 games just fine .when jail broken you can back up all of your disc . all ps3 models can play ps2 . NOOOO YOUR WRONG all ps3 can play ps1 games not the original . my ps3 80 gb is not jail broken the og 2nd generation Non backwards compatible one can play my ps1 games just fine . so wrong why are people wrong about what all ps3 do my cousin can play his ps1 games on his super slim you should of changed the token comparators
DO NOT USE A THERMAL PAD BEHIND THE GPU/CPU. It has been known to add additional flex which may damage solder connections after enough heat cycling, or possibly crack the die. Use thermal putty instead, all the thermal transfer with none of the stress.
You don’t use anything other than Sonys bracer, thermal putty is just as bad
@@Nascar1243 How did you come to that conclusion? Thermal putty deforms to whatever solid surfaces it interfaces with, it doesn't push back to cause the PCB flex issues that causes the documented CPU/GPU failure. It resolves the all of the failings of the thermal pad, and is completely safe.
@@DrivingVertigo just because it deforms to a solid surface doesn’t mean it’s good for it, where do you think all of that material goes and how do you think it deforms. It has to put pressure on it from the back of the cell in order to actually do anything to the putty. The best method is to use a plastic bracer that was made specifically by Sony to go behind the cell and was redesigned by RIP-Felix to work and brace the back of the cell and give it even pressure with the metal shield. Thermal putty is no safer than a thermal pad.
@@ayamaprantenna I find this to not be the case as whenever I spread it thin on a ps3 it does not make nearly as good of contact as if I were to just put 5 dots or any kind of pattern on the IHS. But the main point is to not use anything behind the cpu or GPU like they did in the video. Not unless it was something that was designed by Sony which a guy named RIP-Felix has redesigned and doesn’t apply pressure but braces it. It was never designed for a pad at all if you mean that square behind the cell. That was never its intention and should never be used on any kind of cpu on any motherboard as that is putting pressure on the die, potentially risking the die to crack due to stress.
@@ayamaprantenna it’s very difficult for you to actually break the bga on the chips by accidentally kicking the device if you really look at it, now on the early models it was actually a defect in the chip like the Xbox 360, this was covered and figured out to be factual on many devices that had the 90nm process. Later models with a 65nm RSX were likely bga on either RSX or cell though as I have seen that myself but on early models you will see people barely touch their consoles and they will die, that’s because once the RSX goes above that threshold the underfill becomes soft, allowing the chip to flex. The IHS protected it though along with the fact the cell ran hotter on the ps3, so the RSX rarely hit the 70c threshold of the underfill.
bro don't do the eraser mod that can literally crack the die of your cpu or damage the bga
BE careful on Power Supply AND the WIFI BLUETOTH SCREWS if you PUT the Longer Screw on Power Supply CLoser to the 12v Connector where you shall put the smallest Screw, The Longer Screw WILL Make an SEVERE DAMAGE to THE MAINBOARD INternal Traces Which its IMpossible to REpair, Be Aware of SCrew lengths on PS3 Fat!!!!!
Ooooo just having the original PS2 emotion chip makes it so interesting. Recently I’ve been thinking my next console will be a PS2. Never played 1, 2, or 3. So many good games, it’s worth the effort you put in. Thanks for the video, solid editing, great audio.
Thank You dude !!
Anyone else notice that the chip he used the painters knife on was already removed before he recorded that. You can see it moving as he tries to hold it in place. If you're going to show us then show us, don't do it off camera and then recreate it.
With custom firmware you can run PS2 games on a PS3 Slim. CECH20xxA/B models can do it, but it requires more work so your games could run. You could run custom firmware on CECH 25xxA/B PS3 Slim models, but some consoles can run custom firmware, others can’t, which makes the CECH 25xxA/B a gamble if you’re looking to run custom firmware.
From information I've gathered, CECH25XXA/B before 2011 should work, haven't gone through with the jailbreak yet, gotta get to my PS3 which is at my parents house (I didn't play it until around 5months ago when the PS3 craze came unknowingly to me)
@@luckgrip252 For me I bought a used ps3 slim CECH20xxA for a great price of $50. Worked good, was well maintained, came with all cables too. The owner just wanted it gone.
@@luckgrip252HEN is nice but having a fully unlocked PS3 so much better.
Honestly i own a CECHC 60GB PS3 (Only has the PS2 GPU, CPU is emulated) and a regular 80GB CECHK non backwards compatible, unless you want to run PS2 games from the disc (wouldn't recommend due to laser strain) or use PS2 peripherals, it's not really worth the hassle, PS2 emulation works really good on CFW/HEN consoles, many games have a config file allowing it to work properly, sure sometimes they have slowdowns or little graphic issues, but most popular games will run just fine.
Remove the thermal pad thats under the cell immediately it would crack the cell from extrq pressure in no time
Dude acting like it's his first time seeing dust 😂
Bro is acting like it was that bad, you can only react like that when you are removing 6 years worth of dust that in chunks, out of a PS4 Slim.
That eraser mod will do more harm than any good on your PS3.
Your video is pretty good after all, very well made, excellent quality, everything fine!!!! Liked the video alot after watching again, just your theoretical knowledge about PS3 Repair that you need to improve, also painters knife is like wise one of the safest tool to remove Cell IHS, absolutely Cool.
Thatcell prosser ihs was already removed and ur prosses of removing it is wrong video was staged
Having a PS3 FAT, sitting years in my tv-bench. Broken discdrive (new now ordered), CFW (how will I get back official firmware on this bastard?) and dusty as hell. Feeling for some restoration after seeing your video. Thanks for the inspiration man!
Please watch a couple dozen more videos, this guy is making plenty of dumb mistakes that'll make your console dead.
Just throwing it out there. I used PlastX and a drill with a buffing pad and my ps3 looked about 85 percent less scratched.
Thank you for the suggestion 👍
I picked up a CECHA06 with matching original controller in amazing condition about 2 years back... It is the centre of our home entertainment system. How bad was the thermal paste under the lids? I didn't see any in the video, but I assumed you wiped it off.
Woulda been nice to see the temps after it cured... 😔
Look into getting the Frankenstein mod, as your GPU will die. It’s just the question of “when?”
Would love to practice this on some dead boards, defiantly some patience is needed for a frankie mod
@@Seabei It’s expensive to do because of the equipment needed. You’ll need a BGA rework station. And they cost thousands.
@@samuraiedge3539 yea thats y reballers back then charged so much lol
Have a CECHA01 arriving this Friday (it's Tuesday as of typing this), and I plan to do everything you did here except deliding. I don't trust myself to do that process.
Also question, I see you have MX-4 thermal paste, but do you think MX-6 is good, too?
I have some MX-6 left and was just going to use that but will order different thermal paste if it's deemed a good option.
Either thermal paste will work great, but id practice on a dead motherboard if your unsure of doing the deliding process
please tell me you didint do the eraser mod
@SOTP. I have no idea what that is, so I'm gonna say I didn't do it.
@@Chaotic_Entity 12:52
@@SOTP. Yea, I didn't do that.
Why didn't you apply thermal paste to the chips around the RSX? I was just wondering that.
They don't have heat sink plate to spread the paste and keep it cool unlike the other 2 chips
@@Seabei When you delidded both the cell and rsx chips they both have heat spreaders. On the rsx it has the die in the middle and four chips around it. They originally had paste on them is what I'm talking about.
@@TheMegatron673 the material on the other 4 chip are meant to act as a glue to hold the plate covering them
@@Seabei I see now
@@Seabei yeah and that material is what is used to glue heatsinks on mosfets for example, just a piece of mind open it up and add some thermal paste(non conductive ) on them as well, you will thank me later ( and yea less is not better when it comes to thermal paste aplication with more you cannot fuck up with cheaping out you can lose couple of degreese (celsius) )
how do you know this actally works? I would like to see some before and after temp benchmarks.
Has anyone come up with an external power supply mod for these models yet? I'm really just here waiting for the modding community to come up with cool longevity extending stuff😅
There is one way using a PC psu and a bit jank so not recommended for a few C on the cell, wouldn’t affect RSX much
When your GPU fails watch RIPfelix video on the yellow light of death
Why didn't you glue the IHS for those chips? Even just a little clear glue on the four corners just to hold them in place while you re-connect up the cooling aparatus?
Power supply swap?? Tell me more. got a CECHC03 (CECHE01) runs a little hot, heard 3 fan stages, but it’s working as it goes back down to 2nd gear, considering it’s in really good condition and the warranty sticker is untouched I’m expecting it to die. Unless it’s a Sony refurbished one where they swapped the RSX chips, I dunno it’s off eBay. But reducing any heat in the ps3 is worth doing.
I recommend getting an external fan speed control from CircuitSurgery if you don't want to have a Jailbroken system. If you leave default SYSCON fan control from Sony, all BC PS3 systems will die no matter what :(. Unless you change 90nm RSX for 65nm or 40nm.
I was looking into that mod but i didn't want to alter the the original console in any way as I have this not just to play but a nice display piece for my PlayStation collection
IHS should always be soldered to the chip. I hate when manufacturers use thermal paste instead it's guaranteed to cause problems at some point. How much more can it cost?
Replace the 90nm RSX with a 40nm RSX. ConsoleKing did mine. He sells the service on eBay for $350.
thats alot of money for a 20 year old console.
@@Mareka6969no shit, it’s BGA and replacing the whole chip you literally need expensive equipment to even attempt it
The mods your doing to your ps3 will destroy it😂
Bro if you want to make claims on your channel about hardware repair or PS3 or anything else you can do OK, BUT PLEASE STUDY, PLEASE STUDY, PLEASE BE SURE OF WHAT YOU TALKING, thats all!!! CHeers!
The dude said the ps2 chip is over 8 years 😂😂😂😂😂 the damn chip is over 18 years
@@johnhardly5499 Lmao hahahahahaha
This guy made a lot of mistakes. Including the freaking pea sized thermal paste on the cell. Bruh
@@FR4M3Sharmanot too mention the thermal pad underneath
Glad someone called this guy out. It's almost like he's stringing random words together. But at least his editing skills are on point.
🙄
btw the painters knife url is the same url as the thermal paste ;)
Switched it thx for letting me know
@@Seabei I've just checked it again and its still coming up as thermal paste
@@highroyds omg sorry it should be good now lol
@@Seabei hahahnp yep working now ;)
wow its not the power supply man we knew this 8 years ago lol
This console is not 8 years old, it is 18 years old!!!
Best option for this console is Frankenstein mod, expensive but overheating is not a problem anymore, also instead HDD use SSD
the frankenstein mod is not worth the money.
@@Mareka6969 it is because the main reason of YLOD is caused by gpu
@@apenasumgamer8724rsx****
2:45 You don't just yank the ribbon cable, you flip the little black tab on the connector to disengage the cable. Ffs.
Just by putting a thermal pad on the south bridge and north bridge chips ... And 1 pad per PPu have fun I loved mine I made
If you have not or never serviced a console or opened a console like ps2/3 then please don't do it yourself. Especially he delid. You'll definitely end up killing the console.
Cool
RSX IHS comes off with a rework station but the Cell needs cutting, the glue can be cut using fishing wire it's the safest method just don't put pressure onto the board.
nice guide video. you can use external pc atx power suplly to power ps3 console without any problem at all with one transistor or one optocouppler two resistor and some rewairing and soldering console think that original ps power is instaled atx acting like in normal pc. but you need to keep original power supply case inside console for air flow and mod connection on +12V and power/standby connector (4 or 5 pin connector from original power supply to ps3 motherboard) needs to be extended to atx case for full working support. I can draw you a schematics or give you guidence or google ps3 atx mod...
This atx mod was firstly done for (PS3 cech-2004b) that was bouth online for parts came in very bad condition full with dust and nests of bugs and mold inside case. power supply was fill with dead baked bugs case was vandalise bd-rom was cracked. motherboard was air cleaned and bath in alcohol 3 times for smell and dead bugs parts. I was trying to fix power supply and resolder entire board changing all caps with no luck.I need +12V/15A just to test the motherboard and use some old atx 500W that was laying around. cut all connectors and use five yellow wires and five black wires and put on them crocodile clips so I can easy give power to motherboard without puting all in case with original power supply that I don`t have just for testing. with google on my side datasheet for atx and data sheet for ps3 motherboard I found that I need to "give" ps motherboard +5V standby constant power that have in original system and power led turns on red moment of happines and joy. When you press power on button try to go green and go red again. then I try to power atx (green wire shorted with black wire) gave 12V to motherboard gave 5V standby power and it fire up go in green and starting to boot...Now I use industrial DIN mount schneider ssl1d03jd optocuppler from 3 to 12V to use 3.3V that motherboard gave me to that 4/5 pin connector for green mode power on to short green black wire and it works console need 5V stdby power (just like in pc lol) when you press power on button motherboard give +3.3V output on signal to input of optocuppler that shorts output of optocuppler green/black wire and tell atx to power on. the atx see no diference the ps3 motherboard see no diference or any issue at all. with help of a google I was found that sombudy allready made it (PS3 ATX mod) before me and use 10 times cheeper and 5 times smaller optocupler then me (the crew use optocuppler that was inside original power supply in the moment I take one of four put one resistor on the input of optocuppler 680 - 1K solder directly green black wire at the output of optocupler and works, going further testing with other chepper optocuppler pc817 works...
next thing to do is to clone the hdd to a ssd
Yo you forgot to replace the CMOS battery
U r the best❤❤❤ i subscribe ❤❤🫶🏻🫡
He's not, he made a lot of mistakes, read the comments.
not a good video, PLEASE don't follow these "upgrades"
DUDE WHY DOES EVERYONE THINK you need a og original 20 gb or 40 gb or 60 gb ps3 phat backwards compatible i use a ps3 slim i jail break my slim and super slim both play ps2 games just fine .when jail broken you can back up all of your disc . all ps3 models can play ps2 . NOOOO YOUR WRONG all ps3 can play ps1 games not the original . my ps3 80 gb is not jail broken the og 2nd generation Non backwards compatible one can play my ps1 games just fine . so wrong why are people wrong about what all ps3 do my cousin can play his ps1 games on his super slim you should of changed the token comparators
You don’t need to change the token caps, they work completely fine.
So many “experts” in the comments so jelly that they don’t have an A01 😂😂
Nice job keep those og fats alive as long as possible !!
I got My BC ps3 in 2020 poor guy sold it to me thinking ps5 was gonna support ps1 and ps2