Lol i use a stubby ratchet with a low profile socket 24 mm that eliminates hitting the other stuff that is in the way! It truly works the best being I first tried your method Kippy! I also use a little bit of grease on the threads to help it glide better rather than binding when threading
I changed my oil! 🎉 pumping out method! No issues! The oil filter cap is hella tight, so I squirted it with some stuff to loosen the grip- still tight, but gave it my all with the tiny ratchet which loosened it! 🎉 Not only did I save $$$- but I know I have a new filter and the correct oil!
@@MannyWC I feel like I add a little bit of karma to my overall score if someone gets comfortable with changing their own oil. Granted, I'm in a karmic deficit that will take many lifetimes to pay off, but every bit helps!
I just use a regular ratchet handle, a short extension, a universal joint, and a 24mm socket. This is on a '23, which looks a bit different than what is shown in this video. Can be easily moved over to a torque wrench for installation, too. Thanks for providing the torque value!
Kip did not give a good view of the socket, but I highly recommend a 6 point socket. The plastic cap and housing seem to fuse together after many heat cycles. A 12 point could round the cap hex off. Controversial topic, cap torque: Because of the oring is doing the sealing, I personally tighten till the cap meets the housing. The area is difficult to get a torque wrench in there straight also. Bear in mind, Kip does more oil changes in a week than most people do in a lifetime. So, it’s hard to disagree with his method.
@@promastersonly1419 Absolutely, if anything it keeps me from over-torqueing it so it isn't stuck on 5000 miles later. But I am over 6' and over 250 lbs, so that helps. The first time I used it, the JiffyLube got way more than the 18 ft-lbs you mention (25 Nm in Europe). I was worried they might crack my oil cooler housing with all that torque.
I hear removing Pentastar oil filter caps is going to be an event in the 2028 summer olympics! Part of a triathelon of oil filter cap, shot put, and opening a pickle jar. @@geraldc867
Yes. I have a whole video on it. Extracting - sucking it out through the dipstick tube - is better in every way and gets more oil out than the drainplug.
@@promastersonly1419 BTW Kip, when I filled the oil back up, it took 6 quarts- and another 1/2! I thought only 5 and about 3/4… The O’Rielly guy concurred. Any thoughts on why it took extra- and it isn’t over filled. I keep checking.
@@MannyWC Not abnormal. Normally it will take 5.5 qts. The filter holds quite a bit, and if it was just running the filter will be totally saturated (as opposed to changing the oil cold) and that will bump it up a bit. Minor variations in where the oil is clinging inside the engine, possible the dipstick wasn't pushed in all the way. Possible we are mixing up qts and liters. It's dangerous to overfill the oil, but you have to overfill it by like 3qts for it to be a problem. Fear not, and party on!
@@promastersonly1419 dude you underestimate my skilllzzzz~ i am applying all in quarts:()) I agree, I think my new filter sucked up 1/2 a quart up here in the dry mountains:()) I honestly do not think that filter has been changed in eons! 🥳 for those about to rock… 🫡
I'm old enough to remember when people blamed the leaky pentastar oil filter adapter housing on careless techs overtorquing the plastic cap on the oil filter. But at some point people stopped saying that, probably right around when the aluminum housings came out. Since you have loosed so many of these caps, what say you? did overtorquing of the filter cap cause the whole housing to leak? Or was it just crappy o-rings or the military industrial complex or the scourge of capitalism etc?
The real story is much worse! Torqueing the cap was NEVER the cause of the housings cracking. And in fact, the housings WEREN’T cracking, it was just that one o-ring, just like now. But every time it happened, dealers would lift $1200 off the customer (happened to me twice, partially the impetus to start this channel). If it was still under warranty, the dealer would stick chrysler with the bill. Around 2019, chrysler stopped paying dealers to replace perfectly good coolers, and instead released a revised o-ring package. $10, as opposed to a $300 cooler. Around the same time, Dorman released the aluminum one, but it was on perpetual backorder for a couple of years. We installed a few sets of the new seals and none leaked, but I prefer the Dorman because I think it’s a more permanent fix. To date, no dorman has leaked, and many of my customers are ultra high mileage cases.
Lol i use a stubby ratchet with a low profile socket 24 mm that eliminates hitting the other stuff that is in the way! It truly works the best being I first tried your method Kippy! I also use a little bit of grease on the threads to help it glide better rather than binding when threading
I changed my oil! 🎉 pumping out method! No issues! The oil filter cap is hella tight, so I squirted it with some stuff to loosen the grip- still tight, but gave it my all with the tiny ratchet which loosened it! 🎉 Not only did I save $$$- but I know I have a new filter and the correct oil!
@@MannyWC victory! Well done.
@@promastersonly1419 thank you🥳
@@MannyWC I feel like I add a little bit of karma to my overall score if someone gets comfortable with changing their own oil. Granted, I'm in a karmic deficit that will take many lifetimes to pay off, but every bit helps!
@@promastersonly1419 LOL ~ glad to contribute!
Since you posted the oil change video using the extraction pump method I've been changing the oil myself. Easy-peasy. Thank u.
Easy and kind of fun!
I just use a regular ratchet handle, a short extension, a universal joint, and a 24mm socket. This is on a '23, which looks a bit different than what is shown in this video. Can be easily moved over to a torque wrench for installation, too. Thanks for providing the torque value!
U-joint solves the main problem. Good tip.
Kip did not give a good view of the socket, but I highly recommend a 6 point socket. The plastic cap and housing seem to fuse together after many heat cycles. A 12 point could round the cap hex off.
Controversial topic, cap torque:
Because of the oring is doing the sealing, I personally tighten till the cap meets the housing. The area is difficult to get a torque wrench in there straight also.
Bear in mind, Kip does more oil changes in a week than most people do in a lifetime. So, it’s hard to disagree with his method.
I should have mentioned that. 6 point, absolutely!
youre a legend man. thank you so much for the videos. seriously thank you thank you
Thanks. Every vehicle should have a channel like mine. With or without dick jokes!
My favorite: Sunex Tools 15/16" Stubby wrench
Looked it up. Can you get enough torque with that thing?
@@promastersonly1419 Absolutely, if anything it keeps me from over-torqueing it so it isn't stuck on 5000 miles later. But I am over 6' and over 250 lbs, so that helps. The first time I used it, the JiffyLube got way more than the 18 ft-lbs you mention (25 Nm in Europe). I was worried they might crack my oil cooler housing with all that torque.
I hear removing Pentastar oil filter caps is going to be an event in the 2028 summer olympics! Part of a triathelon of oil filter cap, shot put, and opening a pickle jar. @@geraldc867
I also use the stubby wrench. It is very easy. I also change the oil from the top as Kip recommends.
I will have to try that. Easier to carry a stubby wrench for my customers who change oil in the field. @@davidtaylor3714
I have a small air bag i stick under the the shit thats in the way and it makes it a bit easier
✌️
hello
i have obd code 219A show up .. any suggestion how to go about ??
thanks
Way ahead of you! th-cam.com/video/BWBw8m-ZBlo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HxTCBV3EWtlUtTcb
Is it acceptable practice to remove old oil via hand pump from fill port vs draining from pan?
Yes. I have a whole video on it. Extracting - sucking it out through the dipstick tube - is better in every way and gets more oil out than the drainplug.
@@promastersonly1419 BTW Kip, when I filled the oil back up, it took 6 quarts- and another 1/2! I thought only 5 and about 3/4… The O’Rielly guy concurred. Any thoughts on why it took extra- and it isn’t over filled. I keep checking.
@@MannyWC Not abnormal. Normally it will take 5.5 qts. The filter holds quite a bit, and if it was just running the filter will be totally saturated (as opposed to changing the oil cold) and that will bump it up a bit. Minor variations in where the oil is clinging inside the engine, possible the dipstick wasn't pushed in all the way. Possible we are mixing up qts and liters. It's dangerous to overfill the oil, but you have to overfill it by like 3qts for it to be a problem. Fear not, and party on!
@@promastersonly1419 dude you underestimate my skilllzzzz~ i am applying all in quarts:()) I agree, I think my new filter sucked up 1/2 a quart up here in the dry mountains:()) I honestly do not think that filter has been changed in eons! 🥳 for those about to rock… 🫡
I'm old enough to remember when people blamed the leaky pentastar oil filter adapter housing on careless techs overtorquing the plastic cap on the oil filter. But at some point people stopped saying that, probably right around when the aluminum housings came out. Since you have loosed so many of these caps, what say you? did overtorquing of the filter cap cause the whole housing to leak? Or was it just crappy o-rings or the military industrial complex or the scourge of capitalism etc?
The real story is much worse! Torqueing the cap was NEVER the cause of the housings cracking. And in fact, the housings WEREN’T cracking, it was just that one o-ring, just like now. But every time it happened, dealers would lift $1200 off the customer (happened to me twice, partially the impetus to start this channel). If it was still under warranty, the dealer would stick chrysler with the bill.
Around 2019, chrysler stopped paying dealers to replace perfectly good coolers, and instead released a revised o-ring package. $10, as opposed to a $300 cooler. Around the same time, Dorman released the aluminum one, but it was on perpetual backorder for a couple of years. We installed a few sets of the new seals and none leaked, but I prefer the Dorman because I think it’s a more permanent fix. To date, no dorman has leaked, and many of my customers are ultra high mileage cases.
I already chewed the damn plastic up. 😒
Parts places sell replacement caps.