Shed build part 3 - pouring the concrete slab
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.พ. 2023
- In this video, I use a Mud mixer to pour a 10' x 12' x 4" concrete slab that will support a shed of the same size.
parts 1 & 2
• Shed build part 1 - pr...
• Shed build part 2 - pa... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Used wedge anchors that are for already cured concrete. J hook anchors is what you would use for wet concrete. For future reference
Solid comment. Thank you. I am still learning. Now I am glad I was only able to put two in.
Came here to say the same..
Next time, ask for “J” anchor bolts. Wedge anchors are only designed for cured concrete installations, which you now know 😊 nice mud mixer!
Thanks for the comment.
Awesome video!! Great work.
Thank you.
Looks great
Those anchors look like wedge anchors...meant to go in after the concrete cures...🤔
Yeap those are useless the way they set them in fresh concrete
Solid comment. Thank you. I am still learning. Now I am happy I only put two in.
Should have used L bolts
@@wiltheisen7873 another thing to remember is always pull your wire up off the bottom
It's a shed. Those anchor bolts will be fine. L bolts are designed for this application, but those have enough surface variantion to hold fine in the wet concrete.
Great Video Please upload part #4, Thanks Johnnie
Coming soon!
I think y’all did a great job!!!!
Good job 👌
No, actually, it was not.
Wrong anchor and the slump is way to wet but for the application you good
Nice job but I would have used 3/8 " anchors. less time to set up, and easy to do.
I do not understand why people think it makes sense to pour concrete on top of mesh or rebar that is just laying on the gravel. /SMH/
PEOPLE!!! THE STEEL NEEDS TO BE *_INSIDE_* THE CONCRETE, NOT *_UNDER_* THE CONCRETE!!
Very nice info. How long it took u to pour the concrete and what size was it? Tks
It is a 10'x12'x4" slab. It took about 2 - 2.5 hours to just pour the concrete.
pt 4 ??????????????????????????????????????????????? where ?
It would have been a good candidate for a dry concrete pad. Looks cool. I’m building 16’x20’ up on a pressure treated deck. All good
Cajun Country Living
Why not just mix the damn concrete? Why Why Why do yall have an obsession with dry pouring concrete when you're not saving any time and you're causing the concrete to be weaker?
@@zedwpd yeah the Cajun country living idiots have no place on here trying to show people how to do it wrong by "dry pouring"
Michael W. That was a joke. Right?
"Dry Pour Concrete" is short for "Too Damned Lazy to Mix Concrete With Water" in the correct proportions in order to obtain the conditions that enable the chemical reaction (people who don't understand chemistry call the process "curing"--concrete doesn't "cure") that allows the wet concrete to harden through a process of crystallization. Actually, the correct name for "Dry Pour" is "Dry" "Poor concrete".
I would really like to have the Cajun Couple do a "dry pour concrete" for a retaining wall. Undoubtedly when they would take the forms off, the whole thing would fall to dust. Maybe with "dry pour" retaining walls, you just don't take the forms off.
Just saying.
@@harrisorourke6926 I agree 100%. It doesn't take that much time to just do it right
Did you rent the mud mixer? I’ve been looking for this machine everywhere and nobody has it and I really don’t want to buy one for 3,000
Yes, I did rent it. I should have mentioned that in the video. I rented it from Sunbelt rental. They are a chain, but not all of their locations had one. I called around and found one at a Sunbelt location within 15 miles of my location. I rented it for one day for $75.
@@wiltheisen7873 Thanks for sharing this, ill check to see if my local sunbelt has one.
How much did it save you to do the job versus buying a truck to deliver concrete
A job like that would have been about the same amount to get a truck and a lot less work and a stronger foundation
I spent about $600 on rock (see video #2) and concrete together, $80 to rent the mud mixer, and other minor expenses. The concrete folks in my area are flush with business, and the quotes I received were over $3k, top quote was $3,700. So I did save a bunch. But I also enjoy outdoor work, and this was a fun learning experience for me. I am enjoying doing this project myself.
@@wiltheisen7873 I'm in the same boat here in NW Ohio... Need a 14 x 14 pad for a shed, to have someone come in and pour and finish was well over $3k!!! The local concrete yards won't waste their time on a small job. One guy said if I got everything ready to pour, MAYBE he'd call one day if they were done on a job and had some left over but he added he wouldn't be able to give me much notice.... I actually told him that'd be great.... and then asked if I needed to be there and I think A) he wasn't expecting me to agree and B) he QUICKLY took his queue to call me on not being there saying 'you would need to be there'.....
@bill smith I think the Mud mixer would work well on a 14'x14' slab.
I wish they made it capable of pumping the concrete as well, with a hose attachment.
Can use 4 inch plastic sewer pipe to direct pour.
@@frankorosz901 I don’t think the flow would be strong enough to reach up and pour a concrete post.
How do you think this will work for a home foundation?
I am not a concrete expert, but I would expect your home foundation to be much thicker than the 4 inches I used here. And my guess is your home foundation is much larger. Personally, for a home foundation, I would have a concrete truck bring in the concrete for that.
@@wiltheisen7873 Yes I figured that would be the case, but always looking for alternatives, if they work. But ty for the response!
You need footings for structures of substance
A home foundation is started at least 2 feet below ground level, as you should have a perimeter foundation that is at least 2'X2' then having foundation trenches going across it also, then you pour the concrete over all that, your concrete strength info would be given to you by your architect, which you would give to your concrete supplier, thats not for a beginner.
No rat wall???
Interesting. I didn't even know what that was. I just did a search. I may consider adding that. Thank you for watching and thanks for the comment.
Some score marks to control cracking world be wise.
Good point. I did see a number of concrete videos where scoring and cutting was used on larger projects. Given the size of the pad (10'x12'), the compressed rock base, and the soil in our area, and the fact that this shed won't be holding for than three elephants at any given time, I was comfortable with not scoring or cutting it. Thank you for watching and for the comment.
Would have been worth it to just have a mixer come in.
Thank you for the comment. In my area, the two estimates I received were both over $3k. My approach was about $600. That was enough incentive for me to do it this way. Thanks for watching.
@@wiltheisen7873 I'm getting ready to do a 120 sq/ft slab and was quoted $3k too.. its crazy prices so I'm going to go the mud mixer route. $175/day rental. I'll need to hire couple of young guys to lift those bags!
Well, better than putting the shed on dirt.
Q: why you can't read your plan because it's so small.
And you gloss over very quickly and can't understand what you're saying when you talk about how many bags you used in square footage.
But as long as it turned out all right good for you
Thank you for your comments. In sharing the screenshot of my plans, my goal was not to provide the details, just to share how I was doing my planning. Thanks for watching.
We should be careful not to teach unknowing people the wrong way to do some things.
Tell that to all the idiots on TH-cam that try and teach people it's OK to dry pouring concrete
Thank you for your comment. To be clear, this series of videos is not a "how to" series. It's "this is how I did it", and "don't make the same mistakes I made" series. Thank you again for your comments.
lol
so slow.....
All that planning and notes. You let that poor guy mix with no respirator. You even had a safety section. I feel really bad. 1000 dollars cash and a sincere apology would be a good gesture. Sorry that happened.
Solid point, the lack of a mask was a big miss on my part.
Not a chance in hell lol. I’ll pay the 400 dollars for 2 yards of concrete. Save that much in labor and be done in half the time with less effort. That pained me to watch. Btw a steel trial doesn’t bring cream to the top it closes the surface of the concrete.
I would love to live in an area where two yards of concrete is only $400. Here in North Texas, it's a bit steeper than that. I received estimates of $2k and $2,700.
Good luck getting 2 yards delivered for $400.
Nah where I’m at a crackhead won’t do for 400 that’s so cheap it’s almost insulting
Steel trowel. Ya ignoramus
@@wiltheisen7873are you sure you were quoted correctly??? It's nearly impossible for it to be so high especially in Texas. Someone if overcharging you. You must have gotten the quote from a contractor. You should call the batch plant where the concrete is mixed
Typical. Went Into it trying to disprove it and rushed the entire process. I think everyone watching the video can see he proved what he set out to prove. The bag doesn’t even say “mix with water” …. It literally says “just ADD water”
Rush a job and don’t do it as instructed and you’ll always get subpar results. He adds a few more bags of concrete and is patient when screeding, and actually has a hose with the spray function (his didn’t, it was a fan setting - there’s a difference) and he gets a much better result. Full disclaimer, I’m a nobody but I can see CLEAR differences in what he did vs what others that have successful slabs do.
You always mix with water!! When it says just add water it means you don't have to "add" rock or sand! You definitely shouldn't be commenting on here saying stuff like that
Thank you for watching, and for your comment. I am a bit confused by your note. I am not trying to disprove anything. I am just a guy who wanted his shed on a concrete pad, and used the best method for my situation. Thanks again.
Bunch of amateurs
Yep, spot on.
Wow. What an insult. Calling a amateur a amateur.
WOW, let me look at your videos so I can see how a 'pro' would do it.... OH, wow, I learned so much from your uploads! Sweet! Now I know how to be a dead rapper. LMAO Maybe you could join your idol and take all the losers that follow that nastyness with you! THEN, and MAYBE then, you would actually contribute to something in your worthless life..... and by contribute, I mean food for the worms.
Why not just call for a short load instead of using all those 80lb bags
I spent about $600 on rock (see video #2) and concrete together, $80 to rent the mud mixer, and other minor expenses. The concrete folks in my area are flush with business, and the quotes I received were over $3k, top quote was $3,700. So I did save a bunch. But I also enjoy outdoor work, and this was a fun learning experience for me. I am enjoying doing this project myself.
Nice mixing machine. Seems nice to just pour sackcrete in the hopper and mixes water automatic according to setting. 👍 good job!
pt 4 ??????????????????????????????????????????????? where ?
Yep, the next step is taking time for me to take action on. It's coming. Thank you for watching and asking.
great video thx
What was the temperature outside? It looked kind of cold. Any issues with the temperature?
You buy a $3000 mud mixer and purchase $200 of bagged concrete instead of renting a U-cart that comes with 1 yard of concrete in it to save money??
Not to mention having to lift 60 bags!! 🙄🙄
That's not how you use concrete anchors. oh dear....
Those are not wet set anchor bolts. You incorrectly used expansion bolts
Are you a pilot? Just wanted to know due to having a great checklist!
Bag mixes like that always have a ton of bleed water. They aren't designed to be poured but placed and worked. Because of that they often require a lot of extra effort. Your pour will not achieve the 5000psi strength it was designed to because you used too much water 8:00
Curious if you've done any similar pours with a regular barrel mixer? You mentioned that it took 2-1/2 hours just to do the pour with the mud mixer, but it seems like you spent a LOT of time waiting on the mixer to dribble out the concrete. With a commercial-grade mixer from a rental yard, that would take 5 batches and you'd have the whole slab poured in 30 minutes. And a little 2-3cuft DIY mixer, with one guy running the mixer and one spreading the concreate, could do that pour in under an hour.
This book is awesome! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxzaRUJNcbypw-fRBDbqqz43ULIa-1EGP- It has loads of pictures and videos, and it shows you everything you need to know about tiny homes. It covers all the basics of a house, from plumbing to electricity. It also has some cool floor plans of some of the most popular tiny homes out there. I had a blast reading this book and learning so much. The only thing that bugged me was that the description said it had floor plans, but it didn't say how few there were.
these things would be no good in the UK because we don't really get ready mix bags, We knock-up ballast and cement
Really need to have a footing, it would make it a lot stronger and keep pests out
Yeah right
Your mud was way too wet.
The chicken wire you put for reinforcement does absolutely nothing laying on top of the stone it Has to be in the center of the concrete other than that it look like it came out pretty good
2000lb load in a 1200lb bed. Probably not a great idea.
Concrete max count probably off if you calculated bags based on 2x4 slab when a 2x4 is actually 3.5” tall, not 4”. Good work, I’m excited to try one of these Mud Mixers in person.
The time and effort call a mixer time is money
One of the reasons you had so many extra bags left over was because you mixed your concrete with way too much water taking the place of concrete mix. Per QUIKRETE instructions use 6 pints (3 quarts) of water per 80 lb bag of mix, final water is 6-9 pints. The mix is supposed to be thick and chunky with a 2-3" slump (a 12" tall cone is filled with concrete, probed with a rod to remove air, and then the cone is lifted to see how much height the cone loses which is the slump measurement), people all the time add too much water and their 4,000 psi concrete is now not even close to that spec. The Mud Mixer is so much easier and fast than mixing in a wheelbarrow or mixing tray
Not bad brother
Nice video. Two things I noticed - you had chairs on your list but did not see you use them to elevate the mesh and your concrete bags were too far back on the truck. The load should be over the wheels or as far forward as possible.
You need to check out the Cajun Couple to learn their patented dry pour method. You would have saved so much effort on that slab, plus you would have only had to redo it a few years later. Love that mud mixer. such a nice machine.
Im curious about the mud mixer. How long did it take for it to pour that amount of concrete? Also great work it came out solid.
Thank you for the comment. If you know what you are doing, it goes pretty fast. For me, it was a slow start, but after the third or fourth bag, it went faster. I think the concrete pouring itself only took 2.5 - 3 hours. The floating and trowel work took another couple of hours.
Good job for an amateur. Are you still using the mud mixer for other jobs?
Thank you for the comment. I do have another concrete job I plan to complete using the Mud Mixer. But first I need to finish this shed. I did rent the Mud Mixer, I don't own one. Thank you again.
@@wiltheisen7873 thank you for the video
Now that my brother told me about this mixer I gotta find some reasons to use it! Awesome job!
Thank you.
I have an issue with my MudMixer. The water valve seams tooo sensitive. If I move it 1/8 of an inch the mix is way to wet, 1/8 inch the other way it way to dry.
Have you had that issue ?
Oh wow, that must be frustrating. No, I did not have that issue. If I had that issue and had rented the machine, I would have returned it to the rental place and let them know. There must be something that can be adjusted. If I owned it, I would have contacted the manufacturer. I understand their customer service is solid.
You might want to check your water pressure, may be too high.
Awesome job on the slab. Only comment I would say is you probably should have created control joints within the slab. Cracks may form overtime. Otherthan that you did awesome. Love the video
Thank you. I hear you on the joints. I did consider that. Given our soil type, and the rock base I used, I decided to move forward without joints. I understand it may crack.
Did you pour the slab over the woodchucks or are they moving in later? I didn't see them on your list
Great job man, helps to have great friends. Where you rent the mixer from, also in North Texas hence the reason for asking.
Thank you for the feedback. I rented the Mud Mixer from Sunbelt rental in Arlington.
Wire mesh did absolutely nothing as it’s not in the concrete and is under it.
Thanks for the comment. Actually, it's difficult to see in the video, but because the mesh isn't perfectly level, it is actually about 1-1.5 inches from the bottom in many spots. I initially used rebar chairs, but the mesh was poking out the top of the concrete. Given this is just a 10'x12" shed on a good base of crushed rock with good soil underneath, I have no concerns.
looks like it is very wet mix. i’d like to know if you have cracks next year . time will tell.
Hi, where do you buy or get a mud mixer machine. I google it and no where to be found. Any info would help thx Mike.
I rented it from Sunbelt. I live in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. Not every Sunbelt had it, but the first location I called (they did not have it), directed me to one of their locations that did have it. It was in Arlington.
Nice job! There are two types of concrete: cracked concrete and about to crack concrete.
Thank you for your feedback. Solid comment.
Nice video. The anchor bolt error has been covered adequately, but since you were not able to get them in before the concrete set you were going to need expanding anchors anyways.. The other point I saw is one of the most common errors and one I see many pro do out of laziness is not getting the mesh up into the slab. Just pouring on top of the mesh is not too effective, it needs to be lifted up as you place the concrete so it's in the center of the pour. Better yet, it should be tied to blocks to keep it elevated as you pour. Not sure if a mudmixer can handle fiber mesh but that may have been an option too. Fiber mesh is chopped fiberglass strands that are added to the concrete instead of using wire mesh or rebar.
Thank you for the comment. Solid point. I originally set the mesh on rebar chairs, but the mesh was then actually sticking out the top of the concrete. Then I tried to sink the chairs into the compressed rock, and still had the same problem. Since the mesh was not perfectly level, I expected some of it to lie on the bottom, but a good portion was actually raised at least one inch from the bottom. Given this shed won't be holding more than three elephants at any given time, I got comfortable with that. 😉
I actually just reached out to MudMixer about using fiberglass mesh. They said they'd tested it with "Helix Mesh Rebar", which is the metal fibers. They said they used 9lbs per yard with no issues. They didn't indicate anything about fiberglass mesh. Helix is pretty pricey though, like, $33 a pound or so. Not financially viable for me, so I'm prolly gonna go with Owens Corning pink bar. Lowe's has it for 3/8" x 10' for around $6. Not bad IMO.
And fibers don’t decay like steel 👍
Evidently you don't watch TH-cam a lot? Wire mesh is meant to be in the pour, not under it. For all you DIYers reading this, the mesh will not prevent cracking. It is used to prevent the slab from stepping if it does crack. Re-rod will eliminate most cracking only if used diligently.
Thank you for the comment. Solid point. I originally set the mesh on rebar chairs, but the mesh was then actually sticking out the top of the concrete. Then I tried to sink the chairs into the compressed rock, and still had the same problem. Since the mesh was not perfectly level, I expected some of it to lie on the bottom, but a good portion was actually raised at least one inch from the bottom. Given this shed won't be holding more than three elephants at any given time, I got comfortable with that.
$3K for the Mud Mixer is pretty steep unless you use it for your business. I would get a mixer truck to come out. Cheaper for a one-time job and you do not have to find a place to store it during the 364 days of the year you are not using it. Cool tool though. Need to find a place that rents one.
I rented this one from Sunbelt for around $80, just one day.
@@wiltheisen7873 Thanks for the info. I do not trust these "dry pours" everyone is jacking their jaw about.
@@kimbuck2177 When they put down QuickCrete in a form dry, level it, then add water a little at a time to let it saturate the mix until it crystalizes and hardens over the next few days.
Its a perfect job for shed. No issue at all.
Thanks
@SemicrazyMagatrucker "Its a perfect job for shed. No issue at all."
Nope. He has major issues which will burn him down the road.
@@SamIAm-uk1pp it's a shed...
@@SemicrazyMagatrucker It's still a poor job.
@@SamIAm-uk1pp must be a wild Friday night for you...compacted gravel would be fine ..skip rocks go be someone.
Looking forward to this series
You poured it too wet
Why the music??? It ruins the video
@ Don Tillery Thanks for the comment. I put the music in because I like it that way. I do appreciate your input. I will consider that for future videos. Thank you for watching.
That mixer looks a lot faster than the typical barrel type mixer. Kudos for using that mixer.
Is that sarcastic? This is painful to watch
@@oxymoron5167 ??
10:00 WHERE are the other anchor bolts around the perimeter ? There only seems to be TWO bolts in one corner ?
Check out part 4 coming out soon. They will be drilled in later.
Don't buy the cheep Duck tape by 3M duct tape
Overall, you did a good job. A few minor mistakes, but still a good job.
Pouring with premix that cost 3x what it does with AB and portland, using the wrong anchors and posting it on TH-cam 😂
Thank you for watching and for the comment. Yep, my goal is to help other amateurs not make the same mistakes I did. I am learning quite a bit. That's what it's about. As far as cost goes, I already saved over $2,500 by pouring it myself. And I imagine using AB and Portland works best for some, but using the bagged mixed was a big advantage for my circumstances.
you should have looked into dry pouring.. could have saved a lot of trouble.. but great job.. never the less. !!
It is hard to insert anchor bolts and keep them at the right height with a DRY pour !! You would have to grout them in with a WET concrete blob a few hours before pouring the dry mix.
@@robertchoutka3191actually it's not an issue.. you can do it a few different ways.. just dry pour.. and drill , sqeeze goop in hole tape anchor down.. just like they do on slabs that are built ! .. or wait like 3 hours just before the first full watering bang them down into the cement and finish watering.
i'm sure there are a few more ways to do it..
Yes, I did see a number of dry pour videos. I felt more comfortable with this approach. Thank you for watching, and thanks for the comments.
That dry pour shit is whack. I can’t believe people even consider doing a slab like that. It’s ju at lazy and a piss poor way to lay a slab.
@@tommysanfilippo3165??? The more water.. the more likely you will get cracks.. obviously you've got zero experience on this..
I've done 2 in my yard.. both over a year ago.. one was 7' circle for observatory..
other was an 8'x8' for my hottub .. both have zero cracks , both were easy to do.. and both have over 1000 lbs+ on them ..
Their is a saying.. you can work harder or work smarter..
I see u choose harder...
Good for you.. now that's waked !!
I just finished an 8x12 slab. After the first 20 bags of 80's I got 60's. So 20 80lb bags and then 54 60lb bags for mine.
You guys must have money to burn, how much did you spend on bags of ready mix, did you do a comparison using dry raw materials. Its a good idea when your concrete is drying but still green to keep water on it so it dries as slow as can be, but all said its a nice slab.
Solid comment. I actually saved over $2,500 just by pouring it myself verses having it poured, and I had obtained two estimates. And I didn't want to deal with leftover raw materials. I returned some extra bags. It fit my needs. Thank you for watching and for the comment.
@@wiltheisen7873-
Smart, good job taking care of business.
Nice job. I agree with others that those are expanding anchors meant for cured concrete. Luckily for you that you only placed two of them as they have little holding strength as is. Your metal lattice needed to be raised off the ground before pouring. It does no good at the bottom of the concrete pad and is subject to moisture and rusting. Also, that size pad would benefit from having an expansion joint in the middle. Not critiquing you as your project is done. Just some tips for others looking to do a similar project themselves as I am. I appreciate you sharing and helping others. Stay blessed.
Better still to use reinforcing bars 😊
Thank you for the comments. I did start with rebar chairs, but they were too tall. The mesh was sticking out of the top.