Silk Fabric 101: Supplies for Sewing

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ค. 2024
  • Let's talk about the varying types of silks you'll regularly find on the market today and what's appropriate for historical costuming! There's a lot of different textile options and it can quickly end up confusing, so I'm not only going to break down the definition of each, but we'll look at the textile close up, see how it handles, and even sometimes how it makes up into a finished garment!
    Taffeta
    -Plain weave
    -Fine threads
    -Crisp hand
    -Light to Mid weight
    Dupioni or Shantung
    -Plain weave
    -Slubby threads
    -Crisp hand
    -Light to Mid weight
    Noil or Matka
    -Plain weave
    -Rough threads
    -Soft hand
    -Mid weight
    Crepe de Chine
    -Crepe weave
    -Fine threads, tight alternating spins
    -Soft hand
    -Light to Mid weight
    Charmeuse
    -Crepe and Satin weave
    -Fine threads
    -Soft hand
    -Light weight
    Crepe Back Satin
    -Crepe and Satin weave
    -Fine threads
    -Soft hand
    -Mid weight
    Duchesse Satin
    -Plain and Satin weave
    -Fine threads
    -Crisp hand
    -Mid weight
    Double Faced Satin
    -Satin weave
    -Fine threads
    -Heavy hand, mid crisp
    -Heavy weight
    China Silk or Habatoi
    -Plain weave
    -Fine threads
    -Crisp hand
    -Light weight almost sheer
    Gauze
    -Leno weave
    -Very fine threads
    -Mid crisp hand
    -Very light weight sheer
    Chiffon
    -Crepe weave
    -Fine threads
    -Soft hand
    -Very light weight sheer
    Georgette
    -Crepe weave
    -Fine threads (multiple ply)
    -Soft hand
    -Light weight semi sheer
    Organza
    -Plain weave
    -Fine threads
    -Crisp hand
    -Light weight sheer
    Faille or Corded
    -Plain uneven weave
    -Fine and Heavy threads
    -Crisp hand
    -Heavy weight
    Moire or Watered
    -Plain weave
    -Fine thread (sometimes fine cord)
    -Crisp hand
    -Mid to Heavy weight
    Jacquard
    -Mixed weave (satin, corded, plain)
    -Fine thread
    -Crisp or Soft hand
    -Any weight
    -Reversible
    Damask
    -Mixed weave (satin, corded, plain)
    -Fine thread
    -Crisp hand
    -Mid weight
    -Reversible
    Brocade
    -Mixed weave (satin, plain)
    -Fine thread
    -Crisp hand
    -Mid weight
    -Not reversible
    Ikat
    -Plain weave
    -Fine to mid thread
    -Crisp hand
    -Light to mid weight
    -Warp dyed
    Tulle
    -Net weave
    -Very fine thread
    -Crisp or soft hand
    -Light weight sheer
    Velvet
    -Added pile weave
    -Mid weight thread
    -Soft or hard hand
    -Mid to Heavy weight
    -Often Rayon or Cotton mix
    Jersey
    -Knit weave
    -Light weight thread
    -Soft hand
    -Light to Mid weight
    Art Silk
    -Rayon fibers
    -sometimes "Mulberry Silk" is also used, though this can be real (check the price)
    A (small) few of my favorite silk sources:
    www.renaissancefabrics.net/
    burnleyandtrowbridge.com/
    www.dharmatrading.com/
    prismsilks.com/
    www.silkbaron.com/
    00:00 Introduction
    06:23 Plain weave (Taffeta, Dupioni, Shantung, Noil, Matka)
    11:13 Crepe weave (Crepe de Chine)
    13:54 Satin weave (Charmeuse, Crepe Back Satin, Duchesse Satin, Double Faced Satin)
    17:20 Sheers (China Silk, Habatoi, Leno weave, Gauze, Chiffon, Georgette, Organza)
    21:26 Special weaves (Faille, Moire, Jacquard, Damask, Brocade)
    27:28 Miscellaneous (Ikat, Tulle, Velvet, Jersey, Art Silk)
    Socials
    Instagram: / silk_and_buckram
    Tiktok: / cloche_call
    Patreon: / nicolerudolph
    🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com)
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ความคิดเห็น • 473

  • @NicoleRudolph
    @NicoleRudolph  3 ปีที่แล้ว +297

    If you want a clear list of attributes for each fabric or a short list of my favorite silk sellers, check out the extended description!

    • @lisasmith516
      @lisasmith516 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      I recently watched two programs here on Golden Spider Silk and Lotus Flower Silk. AMAZING. Just FYI they're on YT "Why It's So Expensive."Thank you for this Ms. Rudolph. Lisa Rae Rousseau

    • @camerashycoco
      @camerashycoco 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Ok, why is the internet telling me Mulberry Silk is the real thing? I mean, I'm certainly not holding you responsible for the internet, but it does seem to conflict.
      I'm not fussed about historical accuracy, but I like to know what I'm purchasing. And, when it comes to synthetics especially, I like to know because I love rayon, I like nylon, but I cannot tolerate polyester.
      Your videos are such a pleasure to watch and even just to listen to. And your wardrobe is fabulous. Thanks for sharing your insight and talent with us Nicole. I always look forward to your next one.

    • @mygreenfroggy
      @mygreenfroggy 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Rayon is a great fabric if you live in an area that has hot, humid weather and that can also have dry weather. I live in Oklahoma and wear a lot of it year around.

    • @lazygardens
      @lazygardens 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      @@camerashycoco There are two ways to get a fiber out of mulberry trees: feed the leaves to silkworms OR make fiber out of the wood (like the "bamboo" cloth which is rayon made from bamboo instead of any other source of cellulose.
      And, some fabric sellers lie about their products, or don't test them.

    • @PsychoKat90
      @PsychoKat90 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Amazing, super informative video. Thank you!

  • @pmclaughlin4111
    @pmclaughlin4111 3 ปีที่แล้ว +241

    Best part in a fabulous video: seeing all the different historical garments she has made...especially the different 20s evening gowns

  • @anthonythomas7167
    @anthonythomas7167 3 ปีที่แล้ว +39

    Thank you so much for explaining WHY not to get most silk wet or wash it! I've been wondering forever

  • @frenetic_muse
    @frenetic_muse 3 ปีที่แล้ว +224

    As someone who is just beginning on not only my historical costuming journey but my sewing journey period.... this was so very helpful. Thank you so much for explaining this in such an easy to understand manner. I would love to see you make a series of this focusing on different fibres. When you're just getting started it can be so overwhelming trying to figure out what fibres and what weaves to use for what purposes.

    • @ColorwaveCraftsCo
      @ColorwaveCraftsCo 3 ปีที่แล้ว +10

      Yes!! I am in this camp as well!!

    • @HollyHummingbirdriver
      @HollyHummingbirdriver 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      I second this!

    • @SuperCloudBerry
      @SuperCloudBerry 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      I was just thinking the exact same thing! (am also a newbie at all this)

    • @astridpiepschyk8899
      @astridpiepschyk8899 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      I third and fourth this.

    • @lyreparadox
      @lyreparadox 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Yes, this!
      I'd love to see a similar video on wool - I just look at all the different ways wool fabric can be made and shudder and then walk away confused.

  • @noexpensespentstudios
    @noexpensespentstudios 3 ปีที่แล้ว +64

    Seeing you handle the silk really helps understand how it should look and move and what the names actually mean in relation to the different types. Another really useful and informative video, thank you.

  • @hallamshire
    @hallamshire 3 ปีที่แล้ว +16

    THAT ERTE COAT! You looked like with walked out of a 1920's print! I want to see how you make THAT!

  • @bohemiansusan2897
    @bohemiansusan2897 3 ปีที่แล้ว +67

    I really enjoyed this video as it filled a few gaps in my knowledge of western silk. So many of them have several names for one kind of fabric.
    Eastern Asian silks are something I know well and grew up with as all Sunday, holidays, and formal occaisions were hanboks made of silk. Cotton was used for funerals.
    Some silks you've mentioned in this video, I've gone and machine washed and dried but that was mostly to shrink the fabric or remove sizing that causes me to have skin rashes. I like to find as many ways to use raw silk in projects. I tend to use it in place of linen or lighter canvas.

  • @HanabiCraft
    @HanabiCraft 3 ปีที่แล้ว +62

    I wash every fabric, even taffeta and organza, because the factory sizing is really really bad to have against your skin and can cause medical problems, especially if you have asthma.
    It takes a much longer time to re-size/startch them after washing, but it's so much safer for you.

    • @Yan-ri2jg
      @Yan-ri2jg 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Fellow asthmatic here
      So I should wash my wool before sewing from it do I?

    • @FlyingBunnycorn
      @FlyingBunnycorn 3 ปีที่แล้ว +28

      @@Yan-ri2jg If you want to wash wool, you can; HOWEVER, make sure you use the cold/cold (or at most warm/cold) setting on the washer, and the "knit/delicates" or "hand wash" setting--any setting that turns off the agitator of the machine. If you have access to a front loading washer, even better. DO NOT put it in the dryer; hang it up and let it air dry, iron it dry--anything but the dryer.
      Wool felts due to the combination of heat and friction and soap and water speed up the process. (My mutti accidentally felted her first pair of hand-knit socks by wearing them with nubby-soled slippers, no water required.)
      All that said, I would still HIGHLY recommend only washing a sample of your fabric first, instead of taking a risk with a whole cut of nice wool.

    • @HanabiCraft
      @HanabiCraft 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      @@Yan-ri2jg I always do, but wool cna be temperamental. Avoid temperature shocks (hot to cold or cold to hot) and agitation while wet if it's not superwash, as that will cause felting and shrinkage. I usually wash gentle cycle on cold, and then air dry until it's mostly dry. I finish up with a pressing with lots of Best Press to bring it back to a nicely workable hand.

    • @nicolemulready6329
      @nicolemulready6329 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      How do you starch them or get the proper texture back?

    • @HanabiCraft
      @HanabiCraft 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      @@nicolemulready6329 I use Best Press or Faultless Starch, but that's probably because the theater I worked for was sponsored by Faultless so that was the brand we always used. I assume any spray starch will do. Homemade ones work, but they spoil quickly if not used.

  • @Silligoose501
    @Silligoose501 3 ปีที่แล้ว +83

    AWESOME video!!! And I love how you did a "wrinkle grab/test" for each fabric. Thank you SOOO much for this guide.

  • @AdelaideBeemanWhite
    @AdelaideBeemanWhite 3 ปีที่แล้ว +62

    I have a silk taffeta waistcoat. It’s one of the few silk things that I have. A bird pooped on it. I had to have it dry cleaned. Exactly what you said would happen, happened. It lost some of its sheen and became wrinkled. I’ve been able to iron it, but it will never look quite how it did originally.

    • @LaDivinaLover
      @LaDivinaLover 3 ปีที่แล้ว +13

      It Almost makes you want to go bird shooting!!

    • @persephoneolympia3078
      @persephoneolympia3078 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      i hope you sent the bill to the bird in question, and they paid compensation. if not it may be worth considering suing them!

    • @michellecornum5856
      @michellecornum5856 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      OH NO! Adelaide! How terrible! Was the waistcoat one you made? Or was it an antique?

    • @AdelaideBeemanWhite
      @AdelaideBeemanWhite 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

      @@michellecornum5856 - It was indeed the one that I made. When I discovered that, it was one of the few times when I got very angry at my bird.

    • @michellecornum5856
      @michellecornum5856 3 ปีที่แล้ว +10

      @@AdelaideBeemanWhite Ah, yes, pets are like babies, they're going to make a mess out of the nice stuff -- the ratty old dress gets nothing, the best dress gets the worst of it.

  • @lenabreijer1311
    @lenabreijer1311 3 ปีที่แล้ว +31

    If you have ever had anything to do with the garment industry, you will wash EVERYTHING before you allow it near your body. You can always starch it if you want that look.

  • @marytwiggs7473
    @marytwiggs7473 3 ปีที่แล้ว +37

    I can't speak for other brands, but I've washed the Mood organza with really good results. I wash by hand, and it retains its stiffness after thoroughly drying. I thought I'd ruined it the first time, since it gets flowy while wet, but after it's dry, it's back to being nice and crisp. I think it's a good option if you're like me and hate having to go to the cleaners for everyday items.

  • @michellecornum5856
    @michellecornum5856 3 ปีที่แล้ว +43

    This was INCREDIBLE!!! I loved that you showed a sample and crushed it (WITH THE SOUND). This was incredibly telling. It gives a sense of the hand of the fabric. Good Resource Video!!

  • @LaDivinaLover
    @LaDivinaLover 3 ปีที่แล้ว +158

    “Taffeta is easily found today”.
    Someone in the year 2400 is getting really bent out of shape because we had access to silk fabrics and they don’t. Lol

    • @sarahbeth124
      @sarahbeth124 3 ปีที่แล้ว +18

      Bold of you to assume there will BE a 2400... (mostly kidding Lol)

    • @LaDivinaLover
      @LaDivinaLover 3 ปีที่แล้ว +30

      @@sarahbeth124 Well in my defense 2400 will happen whether human beings are here for it or not. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
      Maybe it’ll be aliens 👽. You never ✨~knoooooow~✨😂

    • @sarahbeth124
      @sarahbeth124 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

      @@LaDivinaLover ah yes. Excellent point! 😂

    • @fionafiona1146
      @fionafiona1146 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Spider silk available from bacteria would be awesome, we might earn stop boiling larva alive by the 2030s

    • @DD-gl3gx
      @DD-gl3gx 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@fionafiona1146 That sounds mean

  • @debbielough7754
    @debbielough7754 3 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    *Thank you* for explaining the difference between woven threads and sewing threads. There's a myth in some historical sewing circles that you can just pull threads out of your fabric and use them to sew. I've tried to explain that all that really does is make an inherently weak seam, but your explanation is so much more eloquent than mine!

    • @michellecornum5856
      @michellecornum5856 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes, very important point!

    • @liav4102
      @liav4102 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I briefly considered it but then I tried to do the pulled thread method to cut linen and yeah that quickly put me off that idea.

    • @robintheparttimesewer6798
      @robintheparttimesewer6798 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I’m sure that there is a small grain of truth in the belief. Maybe emergency repair of a garment darning would be less evident if done that way. It might maybe work with a different fabric though I doubt it would have been for sewing actual seams.

    • @chipmunkwarcry
      @chipmunkwarcry ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@robintheparttimesewer6798 I have heard of that for emergency seams, but yeah definitely not something to do regularly

    • @chipmunkwarcry
      @chipmunkwarcry ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@robintheparttimesewer6798 I also want to add that there are cases where either the warp or weft threads will be stronger than the other (I can’t remember which it is rn) and then that would also be ideal for darning. I have no idea if this is the case for woven silk, but perhaps this is the origin of the myth?

  • @busterbrown4036
    @busterbrown4036 3 ปีที่แล้ว +24

    You are the only TH-camr I watch with a pad to take notes on at hand. Thank you for all the wonderful videos.

  • @rhondacrosswhite8048
    @rhondacrosswhite8048 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Thank You Nicole for sharing all of your knowledge. I consider myself fortunate in that there have been no new additions to my wardrobe in the past 25 years that are not natural fibres. Well, a couple of my ‘70’s DVF dresses are acrylic but they live on by their own merit. I live on the Texas Gulf Coast where it’s hot as hell and humid. If I have any guests in the summer that haven’t lived here before, the first thing we do is shop for her some comfortable clothing items. I am so happy for the refresher course in fibres and fabrics you’re offering. Yeah, I could read and remind myself but you’re voice and method of speaking is soooo much nicer. Cotton, silk, wool and linen are the way to go here. And they feel almost naughty against the skin!

    • @bridgetthewench
      @bridgetthewench 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I'm similarly avoiding synthetic fibers. I'm in Central Iowa, which isn't quite as hot as Texas, but our summers are so humid, it feels like you're breathing soup. I spent last summer avoiding polyester at all costs and only wearing cotton, linen, or rayon, and mostly wore dresses. I was the most comfortable I've ever been in winter, despite having an inefficient air conditioner.

    • @thebookwyrmslair6757
      @thebookwyrmslair6757 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I recently moved to San Antonio and my Colorado wardrobe doesn't cut it. Which stores do you take your guests to? What do you encourage them to get? I love my Eddie Bauer V-neck tshirts, but I have no clue what the fabric is! 😆

  • @RedhairedBallerina
    @RedhairedBallerina 3 ปีที่แล้ว +21

    Thank you! This is very helpful (I especially appreciate that you have the words written down, because sometime it's hard to guess how things are spelled). I have a hard time looking for fabric locally (and add to that that I often have to translate the fabric name, because some things are named differently here (e.g. rayon is called viscose here)), so this is a great resource to come back to and actually see the different fabrics move before I go buy them online.

    • @NicoleRudolph
      @NicoleRudolph  3 ปีที่แล้ว +11

      Viscose is actually a particular type of Rayon! So rayon itself can be far more general (there are even some types that are apparently slightly combustible...)

    • @noexpensespentstudios
      @noexpensespentstudios 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      @@NicoleRudolph That'll be the cellulose. I've been working with rexine recently, used widely in automotive applications as a cheap alternative to leather up to the 1950s, and it seems that it was replaced by petrochemical based vinyls because they were cheaper and more fire retardant. Cellulose seems to have been the go-to for 'proto synthetics' (for want of a better description) and pops up all over the place in the early 20th century for everything from buttons to fabrics to camera film, I wonder if it was the inspiration for the Flanders and Swann song The Wompom.

    • @michellecornum5856
      @michellecornum5856 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      @@NicoleRudolph Is that slightly combustible in the same way a doctor says "You're going to feel a little pinch"

    • @SuperCloudBerry
      @SuperCloudBerry 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@michellecornum5856 omg that gave me such a good laugh 😂

  • @amymullen9489
    @amymullen9489 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    I often find myself confused by fabric types, and this was WILDLY useful. Thank you so much.

  • @kimberleylow7221
    @kimberleylow7221 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Thank you so much for this. I don't do historical costuming, but it's not easy finding different types of silk in person and I didn't know the terminology well enough to feel comfortable shopping online. I'm saving the video for future reference.

  • @Chibihugs
    @Chibihugs 3 ปีที่แล้ว +17

    This is unbelievably helpful and much appreciated. As a newbie I am quite intimidated and nervous about using silk. There is so much to know and figure out. But after watching this, I feel much better about using it in the future. On an interesting note, when I lived and taught in South Korea, we took the kids on a field trip to a museum about the harvesting and making of silk. Everyone got a silkworm cocoon and was shown how to pull the thread free and into a little ball. It was fascinating.

  • @wangofree
    @wangofree 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    As a longtime spinner and beginning weaver this was fascinating to me. Silk is an amazing fiber to work with from the cocoon all the way to the finished garment.

  • @chloesavannahcummings7982
    @chloesavannahcummings7982 3 ปีที่แล้ว +46

    Oh Nicole, how you bring us all life with your wisdom

  • @SuperCloudBerry
    @SuperCloudBerry 3 ปีที่แล้ว +14

    Nicole, you are truly a natural teacher! The level of detail, depth and your way of explaining it all in a way that is actually understandable is just....*chef's kiss"😙👌🏻
    I CANNOT WAIT to learn about any and all other types of fabric.
    Thank you. 💗

  • @skaterbakes
    @skaterbakes 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Omg that Erte coat!! Its probably a lot but I think many of us would love a video of you going through some of your favourite makes! They're all gorgeoussss

  • @TheAgeofFabulous
    @TheAgeofFabulous 3 ปีที่แล้ว +35

    Perfect timing on this video as I needed to know the differences of SILK this weekend!! Especially silk taffeta versus dupioni/shatung and it’s function. Also, I’m trying to make my first corset and determine which silk to use for the outer fabric. Thank you!!

  • @MonaSkovJensen
    @MonaSkovJensen 3 ปีที่แล้ว +23

    I should have taken notes while watching, but I don't mind. This video is worth watching multiple times. Thank you for a very informative video - and all those gorgeous fabrics

    • @robintheparttimesewer6798
      @robintheparttimesewer6798 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      That’s why I saved it! I will definitely want to watch again and find it easily!

  • @hanananah
    @hanananah 3 ปีที่แล้ว +13

    Oh my god I'm finally going to get an answer to my "what the heck is silk dupioni" question. Thank you!

  • @mcomeslast
    @mcomeslast 3 ปีที่แล้ว +14

    This is awesome! Liziqi has a sericulture video if anyone wants to see how much hand work goes into it. She was making bedding for her grandmother but it’s a great overview of the process. I ruined a silk blouse my dad had brought back from Singapore. Got something on it and it was ruined with washing. I won’t use it now without prewashing the fabric so I can hand wash it. Thank you for this, I knew many of these fabrics by name only.

  • @raylin1596
    @raylin1596 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Thank you so much for this!!! For the layperson who doesnt have an extensive history of fabric knowledge and basically no clue on the differences, this is a goldmine! So thank you so much and I look so much to this series.

  • @bernadmanny
    @bernadmanny 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Finally I half-understand silks. This was both informative and digestible, really good job.

  • @SynaNara
    @SynaNara 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    This video is incredible! Whenever I am looking to buy fabric of any kind, I get so overwhelmed by the number of options available and the minuet distinctions between different types of fabrics. This was so helpful and informative, it cleared up a lot of questions I had and I am now way less intimidated by the idea of buying silk!

  • @ChayatsujiKimono
    @ChayatsujiKimono 3 ปีที่แล้ว +16

    This is sooooo helpful! Thank you so much

  • @anastasiamaliuha5481
    @anastasiamaliuha5481 3 ปีที่แล้ว +13

    Goodness, you're so knowledgeable! And you not only share all this amazing knowledge, you also show the absolutely scrumptious fabrics and gorgeous, gorgeous outfits!

  • @mollysmith1711
    @mollysmith1711 3 ปีที่แล้ว +26

    Omg I'm so excited for this series! It's so hard to find information on different fabrics like this

  • @gracestephan2016
    @gracestephan2016 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I work at a big name fabric store and I've had a vague understanding of a lot of these terms and it's so interesting learning where they come from and what they mean.

  • @infamoussphere7228
    @infamoussphere7228 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    This is excellent! For those wondering, I've had good results washing silk satins and silk crepes - I think the main issue with washing silk is removing the sizing Nicole mentioned and the satins and crepes don't really have it. Just make sure you wash them on a gentle cycle with delicates detergent. I utterly ruined some dupion once by dyeing it in the machine - it lost its lustre and went all crinkled up.
    I'm surprised that you say silks are hot and don't breathe, because I would have thought as a natural fibre they'd breathe Ok. I haven't worn any taffeta yet but I've been happy enough with silk satins and crepes in the hot weather. I wore a silk crepe dress in Thailand, which is very hot and humid, and found it to be very comfortable.

  • @Eli-um6gx
    @Eli-um6gx 3 ปีที่แล้ว +22

    This is really excellent, and I salute you for explaining the fiber-to-fabric process in such a clear way! Spinning is not the easiest of topics to explain, nor is weaving.

  • @drywdanner6896
    @drywdanner6896 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Thank you, thank you, thank you! As a sewer on a tight budget for most of my life, I haven't ever worked with silk. Now that I am able to spend more money on my fabrics, I have started to look at silk. Yet I am very intimidated by it, as I have never dealt with it. This video has lessened some of that fear!
    I had recently purchased some silk from Burnley and Trowbridge and can see myself actually sewing with it. Now I just need to figure out what I want to make!

  • @Daisy-zh4xq
    @Daisy-zh4xq 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    This is STELLAR content, I so so so hope you make this a whole series. I, like so many others, am just starting out in my own journey as a clothes-maker and content like this is super helpful as well as interesting.

  • @TheMetatronGirl
    @TheMetatronGirl 3 ปีที่แล้ว +24

    Thank you for making this video! I’m familiar with many of the heavier weaves, but the lighter ones, like charmeusse, Georgette, and China Silk, have had me perplexed. Being able to see examples of each was incredibly helpful. I’d love to see a video on Rayon, particularly with the influx of “natural” or naturally sourced rayon. A lot of yarn purveyors are using that verbiage to describe rayon made from bamboo...but it’s still a synthetic fiber, correct? It confuses my poor wittle brain.
    Thank you again for sharing your wealth of knowledge! Be well, and have a joyous week.

    • @NicoleRudolph
      @NicoleRudolph  3 ปีที่แล้ว +18

      Yeah, bamboo rayon is just rayon. There’s even some legal thing that happened with that. Once you break down the source of the cellulosic fiber to the point of processing it’s not any different no matter it’s source. Basically it’s man made but it’s not plastic 😂. I’ll definitely do more on that in the future though!

    • @TarynsTime
      @TarynsTime 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      @@NicoleRudolph Rayon is one of the most perplexing fabrics to me also. I live in the Southern US where it's to hot for synthetics, I call polyester the Devil's fabric because it's hot as Hades. I'm trying to avoid making/wearing any plastic anymore. I'd noticed differences in the silk, cotton and that confusing rayon during the last couple summers. Thank you for this video it's going to be a reference for me many times.

    • @StraylightWintermute
      @StraylightWintermute 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      Rayon is never really "natural" the way a fiber like cotton or linen is, since it can't be created without specialized chemical processes. But all rayon is naturally sourced - it's made from plant cellulose, whether that's bamboo or something else. The original form of rayon that was invented was viscose, which is made from wood pulp.

    • @fiberterian
      @fiberterian 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Yep, there is rayon made from banana leaves, corn, even milk proteins!

    • @SpringStarFangirl
      @SpringStarFangirl ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Rayon is considered a semi-synthetic fiber! It's made of wood pulp, making it a cellulose fiber at the end of the day, and it has similar properties to cotton in terms of stretch and moisture absorption. However, rayon was originally invented, iirc, as a silk mimic, so it's often woven similarly to silks of various kinds. It tends to be much more sleek than an equivalent cotton weave, and it's usually quite soft. It's rarely starched in the way silk would be.
      I will note, though, that the reason it's called a semi-synthetic fiber is that the wood pulp from which rayon is made has to undergo a lot of different chemical processes to become a viable fiber. So it's not the most environmentally friendly fiber out there. But, when I'm picking between rayon and polyester, it's rayon all the way. It breathes better and it's at least somewhat biodegradable.

  • @VBirchwood
    @VBirchwood 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    Well, this video came at the perfect time. Kind of ominous actually. Thanks Nicole, as always!

  • @devinbaggs7542
    @devinbaggs7542 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Oh gosh Nicole, that antique brocade is just wow

  • @annie4424
    @annie4424 3 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    This series is SOOO helpful; thank you! I’ve always struggled finding good sources to help me understand the difference between the different kinds of fabrics, and having a video with explanations has been so incredibly useful. Thank you for taking time to make these!

  • @shevaunhandley1543
    @shevaunhandley1543 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    At your recommendation, I downloaded The Golden Thread and am listening to it at the moment. Being a history of fabric I'm so glad you're doing this series! 👏👏👏

  • @twobluestripes
    @twobluestripes 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    This is the most comprehensive and best explained fiber/textile overview I have ever seen, heard, or read! Excited for future topics in this series. Only way it could be improved would be small graphics or drawings showing zoomed-in diagrams of the weave structures as you explain them (which is a lot more effort on your part since you are using all original content! Maybe a pen-and-paper drawing or little photo of a demonstration with colored strings of the various weave types would be doable).

  • @sandieking9007
    @sandieking9007 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I am so excited to see this fabric series! Beyond cotton and linen, I need a guide for garment fabrics.

  • @audreysavard3248
    @audreysavard3248 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I really want to thank you. I was trying to identify a type of tissus to reproduce one of my favorite dress. Books made poor descriptions of the different weaving than i cannot fing the rigth one. Now I can. Thanks again.

  • @melibadeli
    @melibadeli 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thank you so much for making this video! I'm relatively new to historical sewing (and sewing in general) and I find it so overwhelming going into a fabric store and not having a clear idea of what kind of fabric of the plethora out there are the best for my project. This helps so much. Please keep making more videos like this about other types of fabric. I'd really appreciate it. For example, I'm working on a pair of combinations right now that the pattern recommended I use batiste woven cotton. I don't fully understand what that is (a nice lightweight cotton?), but I order some through etsy (because none of my local fabric stores don't have a great selection of natural fiber fabrics) and it's so much nicer than what I found in my local stores. I would love it if I understood why and had the language to find what I'm looking for in my projects.
    Thank you so much again! This resource is truly wonderful.

  • @beckstheimpatient4135
    @beckstheimpatient4135 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    I have a chunk of silk velvet and was really curious about what it actually was (I realised it was silk, but it confused me). I'm glad I now know how it works and, that since it's mostly rayon, I shouldn't worry about using it since it's not that fancy!

  • @jacsickels7597
    @jacsickels7597 3 ปีที่แล้ว +12

    It’s like you read my mind! I was hoping to learn more about silk and this is an amazing resource. I genuinely feel like I should be paying for this as a masterclass.

  • @taylorblanchett7528
    @taylorblanchett7528 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I just want to let you know that this video has made my life sooo much easier, I've been looking for a silk for a gown for 2 weeks now and without being able to go into stores and see them in person its been a giant stress. Thank you for explaining everything in such detail with so many examples.

  • @erinjackson6243
    @erinjackson6243 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thanks for a great video! Your timing couldn't be better lol.
    I was just looking for a washable silk to make a blouse for the spring/summer. I may go with Rayon after all is said and done. I didn't realize silk wasn't breathable at all. It gets *extremely* humid here in the summer and having a top that doesn't breathe sounds like a poor decision.

    • @ms.chuckfu1088
      @ms.chuckfu1088 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I’ve always found silk too hot. Even around 50°F / 10°C.

    • @bridgetthewench
      @bridgetthewench 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@ms.chuckfu1088 I've heard that silk thermal underlayers are great for below freezing temps, but I haven't yet had the funds to try them out. I'm someone who's always cold, in a 74°F office you'll find me in two sweaters and still shivering, so silk may actually be comfy for me in the cold.

    • @bridgetthewench
      @bridgetthewench 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I've found rayon about as comfortable as cotton in the heat, so it's a good option. I also have a blouse that is made from something called cupro - it's another silk-like fiber, similar to rayon but made from the bits of cotton that fall away from the thread during the spinning process.

    • @ms.chuckfu1088
      @ms.chuckfu1088 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@bridgetthewench
      I had a very fine shrubby silk knit sweater. Not even as think as a regular T-shirt, but it was warm.

  • @pmclaughlin4111
    @pmclaughlin4111 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    I've anted to make some silk slips for a while so I was thrilled to see Nicole take on this topic...hugely informative...

  • @mutedroar
    @mutedroar 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Noil/Matka is one of my favorite fabrics for all time. Not for historical reasons, just for my love of it.

  • @calicolyon
    @calicolyon 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    This was so educational!! I have only owned one outfit made of silk. I felt like a grown up! I was bought it at about age 10. I miss it! I think eventually I will save up for another outfit. :)

  • @kasiar1540
    @kasiar1540 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Going to watch this again and again until it all sinks in. Thank you so much Nicole!

  • @noblemily
    @noblemily 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    This is the most detailed video about silks I've ever watched.

  • @Elgarad
    @Elgarad 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    That was sooooo helpful! I'm new to the sewing/costuming world and it's great to have all these explanations in one spot. I hope there's going to be other videos like these about different fibers and fabrics. And your videos are always a pleasure to watch! ❤

  • @VioletFem
    @VioletFem 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    This video is incredibly helpful for learning all the different of ways that silk can be woven. Thank you!

  • @romero24448
    @romero24448 ปีที่แล้ว

    This fabric series is a godsend! You are very good at giving a concise but very in depth description of all these different textiles. Also, I would love a video on how the style of silk damasques have changed over the centuries please rant on forever

  • @Art4ArtsSakeVideo
    @Art4ArtsSakeVideo หลายเดือนก่อน

    Listening to Nicole, and then seeing her handle samples of the various fabrics, is like walking through a historical novel. I could always look at a historical painting or photo and see garments resembling what the characters are wearing, but understanding from a root-source perspective the characteristics of Jane Austen's dimity or Laura Ingalls Wilder's calico or Dorothy L. Sayers' "crepe de chine demi-evening gown, three years out of fashion' is even better. This (and the linen programme I watched yesterday) is terrific, so thanks Ms Rudolph!

  • @daalelli
    @daalelli 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I had no idea that so many of our fabrics that are plastic now, started life as silk. I worked at a fabric store for about 2 years, and have handled all of these in the plastic version, but did not know that they were all silk based at one time. Thank you for this (now these) education. What a wonderful gift of your time.

  • @Btrotter01
    @Btrotter01 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for making this video. I've always loved and been fascinated by silks and NOW I have a much better understanding of the types, weaves, weights, etc. of my favorite fabric. And SUPER thanks for the break down of each in the description area!!! You ARE AWESOME!!!

  • @oliquin-roo3420
    @oliquin-roo3420 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is an amazing video particularly for fashion students since not all programs go into this great of detail. Also, I'm slightly envious of your bolt collection of so many silks! Thanks Nicole for the continued education of your followers.

  • @RainyDayBricks
    @RainyDayBricks 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I could watch this over and over. The tremendous amount of details! I just love this video! Thank you 😊

  • @sarahbeth124
    @sarahbeth124 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    OMG, this is such a wonderful video. It’s so hard to learn about textiles without getting to touch everything. This was wonderfully helpful to see all the types and swatches and how they behave. Thank you!

  • @ginalou5774
    @ginalou5774 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Geez your brain is full of cool stuff! So much fascinating knowledge...

  • @AthenaeusGreenwood
    @AthenaeusGreenwood 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    So many thanks for this series. Showing the hand of the various fibers & weaves is incredibly helpful to me, as I can no longer physically sew but am exploring virtual clothing as a way to continue my passion. Seeing how the fabrics move, both the hand & the garments is great for determining fabric weighting in virtual worlds. As a former recreationist moving into the digital world, this is (runs out of superlatives!). Nicole, you are a goddess!

  • @ManorandMaker
    @ManorandMaker 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Very helpful video.I found the crinkle test, and shown-in-a-garment views particularly helpful. Obviously a lot to retain and digest here, and a great reference to go back to again and again. Thanks, great job!

  • @susanrobertson984
    @susanrobertson984 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Lovely - Fabric geekery and more to come?! So are we blessed. I believe faille is pronounced fah(i)'-ye as it's French (make that last thing have a schwa not an e).

  • @dandeliondew
    @dandeliondew 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    thank you for not bashing on people who may need blends or polyester! i feel like the historical costume community can be very harsh on those for being 'costume-y' or inaccruate. but truly, if we're taking the time to make personal historical clothes, than whatever conditions and criteria i personally need are the most important! sometimes it's hard for myself to believe that so hearing that there was helpful! :)

  • @vividwings
    @vividwings 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is a wonderful video, and so helpful! A fun fact: the Jacquard loom is very similar to a computer in many respects and was a key precursor to Babbage's difference engine and computers that followed. You feed in a program on punch cards, and it produces a graphical output for you based on those punch cards. It's just a graphical output composed of silk fibers, not patterns of lights on a monitor.

  • @frankiemillcarek6976
    @frankiemillcarek6976 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for putting this info together in such a clear manner! I hope you make videos about every fabric in this way. This is not only interesting as heck but so practical for people learning to sew without institutional knowledge. Understanding the terminology to search for, the qualities, and the uses of fabric that are available is so crucial to prevent a sewing disaster (as you said because of the textile's fault not your own.)

  • @lesllou5
    @lesllou5 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I'm a drapery designer . I've been in this business for 35 years.
    When I was a child the movie Gone With the Wind where Scarlett made a dress out of the velvet drapery stuck with me ..
    I'm a fabric fanatic. You are speaking my language
    . I love your chanel. You must go to Lyon France and see the old silk mills .. what an experience .

  • @inegyllensvard
    @inegyllensvard 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I learned all this in school but I was so nice to be reminded of it and see the fabrics that you own. Im working a lot with damask at the moment and would definitely watch a video on that!
    Thank you!

  • @dandeliondew
    @dandeliondew 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Also, WOW that taffeta close-up and scrunch shot! I had no idea, it looks like the most delicious wrapping paper or candy wrapping.

  • @pimmieschoorl
    @pimmieschoorl 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    your video's are so great and informative. An absolute joy to watch them!

  • @sharbean
    @sharbean 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Excellent and informative video. I stopped it several times and went down other rabbit trails to investigate further.

  • @heidizetzsche8930
    @heidizetzsche8930 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I don't work with fabrics or clothing in any way (except for..like.. wearing clothes) and I find this video sooooo educating and entertaining. Not only do you have a beautiful and calm voice to easily entertain someone for more than 30 min, but this excursion into all the different types of silks there are and how they differ is so utterly fascinating.
    I have no idea if a similiar video makes sense (meaning there are enough different types of another fabric to elaborate on them) but if so, I would love to learn more about other fabrics as well.
    Thank you for this great content and for educating me.

  • @OzDrysdale
    @OzDrysdale 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Perfectly timed, Nicole! I had just received swatch catalogue with lots of silk fabrics and was able to "fondle along" for most of the fabrics described! 😍 (Will admit to being sad that finding silk taffeta in Australia though is harder than the proverbial hen's teeth. 😫 )

    • @infamoussphere7228
      @infamoussphere7228 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      oh man don't I know it. The independent fabric store in Canberra that I liked visiting BURNED DOWN (and I don't even remember them having any silk at all - plenty of nice wool though!) and there's nothing else except Lincraft and Spotlight, which don't have silk anymore. Tessuti and The Fabric Store don't have much in the way of silk. For some reason some of the only kind of silk for sale in Australia is chiffons and georgettes, and a little bit of crepe and satin, which I don't really want to sew because they are shifty and thin and catch in the machine and generally do not behave. I'm looking to make myself a wedding dress/outfit out, but there's so little silk available in Australia and shipping from the US is monstrous, so most US recommendations aren't that useful. I found some places that sell almost exclusively silk but they're catered to bridal wear and so it's mostly white, and I want emerald green. I do have silk in my stash from Cambodia, India and Thailand, but not enough for a dress, just bits big enough for a blouse, skirt or maybe a jacket. So I might end up ordering from Etsy sellers in Vietnam or India, who have beautiful colours.

    • @OzDrysdale
      @OzDrysdale 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@infamoussphere7228 Beautiful Silks has a lovely range of silk but they mostly cater for eco-dyers etc so the range is lightweights mostly and non-dyed.

    • @meeeka
      @meeeka 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Have you tried Tessuti in Sydney? Other years I've found some gorgeous things there....I think they are in Surry Hills now.

  • @gerileemakes
    @gerileemakes 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I'm so excited for this series!

  • @emmadunnett8290
    @emmadunnett8290 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you Nicole this was so thought through! I have learnt so much from your channel already, can't wait for more like this 😊

  • @astridpiepschyk8899
    @astridpiepschyk8899 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is perfect! I really appreciate the work you've put into explaining all the differences.

  • @JoannaLouise200
    @JoannaLouise200 ปีที่แล้ว

    Your knowledge & experience of fabrics is encyclopaedic! ~ what an incredible & fascinating resource, Nicole ~ thank you. I had no idea that silk was so crease-resistant ~ most samples you scrunched sprang straight back into shape. The period garments you have made in silk, and beautifully modelled, are simply stunning ~ particularly the ones that give a dynamic two-tone shimmer according to drape/fall of light, and movement.

  • @andgordo558
    @andgordo558 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I LOVE this video. All the information, from a source I trust, condensed into one spot. Looking forward to other fibers!

  • @cassiesews
    @cassiesews 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I love how much we can learn through your videos. thanks for sharing

  • @Gmato12
    @Gmato12 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you, Nicole. Such wonderful information that is very timely for me. ❤️

  • @Lili-ls7um
    @Lili-ls7um 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I love your informative videos. And the fact that you acknowledge the limitations of your (very extensive) knowledge. Thank you!

  • @nglitch3111
    @nglitch3111 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you Nicole! I just found your channel and am binge watching these super-informative videos. ❤️❤️❤️ Thank you so much for the visual clips of the different fabrics, so incredibly helpful!

  • @galaxysprinkles1573
    @galaxysprinkles1573 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is an absolute gold mine! Seeing examples of the fabrics together with their name and such an informative description, as a self taught hobby sewist I am in heaven! 😍

  • @EH23831
    @EH23831 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks Nicole! Fascinating and comprehensive guide to silk textiles!
    Love it 😍

  • @stephanief.2808
    @stephanief.2808 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    A wealth of knowledge, thank you, this is incredibly helpful

  • @bookhoarding
    @bookhoarding 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I love love love how much info you included here, while not making it too hard for a costume newbie to follow along. Much appreciated!

  • @MisSiszY
    @MisSiszY 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Fabulously interesting as always!

  • @ashleigh6192
    @ashleigh6192 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I love these teaching videos they are so helpful and fun to watch

  • @PaleLady
    @PaleLady 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I LOVE THE FIBER/FABRIC TYPE VIDEOS!!! 💗💗 Thank you so much for making videos, love that your sharing your knowledge

  • @Devanrealness
    @Devanrealness 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for this! I love how you have examples in motion. That red 30s dress is gorgeous!❤💃

  • @annebiedenstein395
    @annebiedenstein395 ปีที่แล้ว

    I feel like this is the beginning of a very long rabbit hole that I hope you continue with so so much. This video is hitting all of my geek out, must-know-all-the-things-about-the-thing buttons and I am so excited to learn more. I am a fiber artist who specializes in heritage breed sheep wools and I am beginning to branch off into sewing. As someone who cares way too much about all of the fiber/fabric properties, this video hits ALL of the vibes. Who knew there was so much to know about something that we literally walk around in every single day (textiles, I mean, not silk...even though that would be awesome)?

  • @susanhansen9032
    @susanhansen9032 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you! I am enthralled.