I'm happy living vicariously through costube but I have wanted a full pin stripe suit like Bernadette's for about 20 years and 1890s is the best silhouette. I also really want to make a kirtle. I appreciate the methodology to this video, not many people mention costs in sewing videos but it can be so prohibitive especially when you're starting out and scared of messing up
Yeah, that suit is 🤩! Making a kirtle is great. I love mine, I made it with convertible sleeves, and I get a lot of use out of it! And thank you! I'm glad mentioning costs is helpful. I agree that it can really be prohibitive, esp. for beginners. I like to encourage folks to always use cheap materials on the first few makes.
The wonderful thing about kirtles, and even older dresses, is that you have such variety. I would look into old Norse/Finnish dresses - they're not fitted and thus extremely forgiving for a newbie. And if you make one of those in wool you will LIVE IN IT. NOTHING beats the comfort provided by early Medieval clothing. You won't want jeans again.
Thank you! 😊 Hah! We're basically opposites 🤣 I love my mantua. I do love mid! But my favorite is the 1670's, when the fabrics get a little less plain and we're getting the gown-over-petticoat look and still have poofy sleeves. 🤩
XD or stupid XD I wanted to make ont one but TWO dresses. IN the end, the one I made for m,y firend was quite a good take on the recreation, the one for me was a total mess. I wonder WHY XD Did I learn my lesson? NOPE. A year later I took upon myself not only changing the dress for a friend (adding trims and changing the petticoat) but also making my own AND my boyfriend's costumes. That was my breaking point though - I didn't try to take that era ever since. But I actually bought the book you showed ;) It is AMAZING. Still, I deeply admire you for actually fitting those damned stays on yourself. And they look freaking fantastic, too
Honestly, the reason I want to start sewing is for 17th century fashion... I'm honestly still tempted to start with it despite the video and just suffer all the way through... we'll see lol
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming good luck! At least you're hopefully not doing 1530s Italian men's pants, those are.... very poofy and slashy and tedious.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming If you do, I'd recommend looking at The Opera Nova by Achille Marozzo, which is an Italian fencing manual from the 1530s with a ton of full-body drawings. It's a wonderful source for Italian high-fashion since portraits of the time that show the legs are hard to come by.
My first era was “Renn Faire” where I could start from some true historical patterns but not worry so much about the details or accurate ($$$$) fabrics
I love how "you should go to events! Make friends!" is the biggest motivation in this video 😂 but alas, I'm an introvert and don't wanna leave my house 😂 Eta: not me, listening and working on an 1860s working gown yelling about hoop steel costs 😂😭
I mean...I am also an introvert who does not like leaving the house 🤷♀️ but to me, I joined the community precisely so I had a reason to wear my costumes somewhere, so it overrides natural instinct 🤣 Heh heh heh. That steel's PRICEY.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming 😂😂😂😂 thats so valid. I just plan on wearing them day to day. Life's short, if I'm gonna have to suffer existence while shopping in a walmart I'm gonna be wearing something that would make my stuffy puritan ancestors cringe to make up for the emotional damage 😂 Why is hoop steel so expensive 😭😭😭 the cost of the underpinnings outstripping the cost of the outerwear itself should be illegal
Y'all have events and a community? Because it's all tumbleweeds where I live. My 'costuming community' is commenting on Bernadette's IG and being happy if I get a like 🤣
I'm an introvert, so joining a community (especially when literally NO ONE in my family & friends group sews like I do, so I have no one to go with) isn't high on the list. However, I am also the person who simply doesn't care. Yes, I will wear something Medieval inspired or whatever while at work just because I feel like it. My department's dress code is basically clean, presentable, & appropriate for a lab if you happen to be teaching one that day. I wore my Regency dress to a baby shower. Fewer people care if you don't care what they think about you. Plus, there's always stuff like Halloween. 🤣 Edit: corrected autocorrected word because autocorrect doesn't like "sews"
This was such a fun list! But with regard to Amer. Civil War, there's been a resurgence in this era among Black costumers trying to reclaim the fashion most of our ancestors weren't allowed (not to mention there's a lot of Little Women-core out there lol). I don't want interest in this era to die out, however you're definitely right in that it needs to be handled with care and appropriate education.
Ah, that's such a valid point! Thank you! And thanks for watching 🧡 (NGL, I have an intense love/hate relationship with LW...it's a struggle 🤣) Would you be comfortable with me pinning your comment? 100% ok if you're not!
You & they can also reproduce Afro aCaribbeanS & Afro S American styles. There were all sorts of styles, many still used today. Folk dance, tourism etc. videos show the great diversity, Afro populations existed z&!exist in every country & territory, except Paraguay, & ? Mexico down to Argentina, Peru to Brasil etc. Spanish, Portuguese, French, English, Papiamento, etc, all languages spoken & sung. Greatest clothing!’aGreat dances & songs!
Absolutely *living* for your 17th c rant, lol! My first costumes were Hellenistic, vaguely Anglo-Saxon/ Dark Ages- early Middle Ages, & 1910's*-1920's *tbf, Australian Federation is a bit simpler than full-on Edwardian glory, but lace & tucks were still a feature...
🤣 Thanks! It was fun to film, even if I am "not" bitter about the whole thing. LOL! All great places to start! I don't know much about the Australian Federation style. I'll have to go check it out!
My first Historical Costuming project was a Medieval Kirtle. I still haven't gotten the hang out of reading patterns, so I still tend to stick to simply shaped outfits or just drafting my own patterns. So I've made a lot of shifts, a lot of tunics, a Chiton, a lot of 1700's-style petticoats, an Aesthetic Dress Reform Dress, and recently a Smokkr/Apron Dress. I am branching out, though, with my first Dirndl-style bodice for a Hobbit costume. It's based on a pattern I draped on my dress form (the duct taped kind, a beginner staple 😉). Wish me luck!
Dude I literally put one seam and some safety pins in a piece of fabric yesterday and wore it with a belt. I have lots of sewing experience but have never felt something so instantly come together that I loved so much 😂 all my friends said I looked like a goddess 😁
In all honesty and respect, I disagree about the 1860s. If you mean specifically American fashion, I could more or less buy that. But it doesn't have to be American fashion. It can be European fashion and although it's pretty much the same (especially in form), it's important to look outside America. In the 1837s, a decree was passed in the Spanish colonies allowing the free trade of slaves. However, I would never say that anyone did (if only for moral reasons) the 1830s. For in every place, there have been many atrocities. Hence, I don't think is fear as you say to "stop making the era, period". Because as an Spaniard, American civil war is way to far from my culture. Hence, I could tell to all Americans not to try 1830's. You didn't even gave the opportunity to others to choose whether or not to chose an 1860's gown from other country. And you were clear with not trying the era.
Apologies, I realize after the fact my response sounded unnecessarily snippy. Not my intent! I did actually specify in the original script that I wasn't speaking for any other country in that time period, because I didn't have the knowledge to speak about it in that context, and that I was only concerned with US. But it got cut for time. I regret not leaving it in. Obviously, other places have different contexts. But for (white folks) in the US, it's still really not a good space to be in.
1920s one hour dresses are a fantastic first stop after a chiton . I think 1780s is likely my next actual full build. I’ve got a specific one I’m creating in lounge wear so I may as well work on a day dress at least since I have most of the under layers. Just need a suitable fabric. Right now I have so many ideas but so little time 😂 yet I still prefer prioritizing hand sewing over machine sewing
My first historical project, which I made last year, was a Chinese Hanfu. Hanfu is relatively easy construction wise especially since the sleeves are practically dolmam sleeves. My second historical project, which I made this year, was both a day and a evening 1920s outfit. The day outfit is in the style of Miss Fisher with pants, a hat and a lavishly stylish coat (the first coat I ever made). The evening outfit contains both an evening dress and a cape (which was acutally a very popular evening option). I always sew "costumes" for LARP. The Hanfu was for a Fantasy character but I used it as an opportunity to research and renconstruct a historical garment. The second LARP was set in 1928 and I can assure you I was the most accurately dressed person there😂😮
Oh my god it's so nice to find someone who's into the 1600s! I've fallen in love with the 1690s and want to make a few bodices (thankfully I draft my own patterns and enjoy doing so, and am not a super tight stickler for accuracy, so that won't hold me back) but it's so strange to see virtually no content about the era on here, given how gorgeous it is.
That's SO awesome that you draft your own bodices! I can do basic drafting, but when it comes to stays, that's way too much math for me 😆 It is strange, and frustrating, that there's so little content about it! Next year I'm gonna be doing quite a bit of it, though, now that I've made some eras I can wear to events, so that should change shortly!!
I started with a smattering of mid 1800's (pairie dresses ala Oregon trail in elementary school), vaguely medieval for Ren Faires and 17th century pirate attire. But now I'm firmly in the medieval and Tudor eras with a fantasy twist. Though I do help my wife with her Victorian and Edwardian garb.
I wanna do the 17th century so badly, but I can't find patterns and I do NOT have the skillset to grade from pattern books. But those Stuart gowns are so gorgeous!
They are! It's such a shame that there aren't many resources out there. Reconstructing History does have some patterns, but they are not good patterns at all, they scale terribly and the instructions are awful, and aren't any better than scaling 🙄 There is one 1660's pattern out there from Nehelenia patterns. TH-cam doesn't like me linking, but you can google it. I've heard good things about it, but it does ship from Germany, so the price has always thrown me off.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Thank you! Knitted knee high socks for the costume! I was able to manage the project by loaning A LOT of books on the subject from my uni library and just giving it time.
This is a great reference video, thanks for making it. 😊 I would add Bronze Age and Iron Age to the top tier. It's simply narrow rectangular pieces of fabric stitched together by hand with a bone needle, and held together with belts and brooches. You can buy reproduction belt buckles and brooches. Maybe Viking Age would fit into the top tier too. I'm not sure, but I think Viking Age is more fitted. But still no stays or complicated things. (maybe Bronze/Iron/Viking Age are more common here in Europe. I don't know. Every now and again we dig up bodies with clothes from these eras in peat bogs here. So we have references).
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it! Those are good suggestions! I know ZERO things about any of those eras, but I definitely can see how that'd be true!
As someone who started in early 17th c with almost no sewing experience, I would argue that early 17th c should go in 'If you like crying', instead of 'Nope!', especially if you're doing working class. You can basically get away with using a Tudor kirtle as your foundation garment, and there are a bunch of reenactment groups that have helpful websites. Renaissance really, /really/ depends on what part of Europe you're talking about. 16th c Ireland falls squarely into NOPE! There is only one company that makes patterns for it, and said company's patterns are generally not known for being beginner-friendly. Other information sources are difficult-to-impossible to find (ask me how I know), and a proper outfit requires 15+ yd of fabric. But, 16th c. Ireland has THE MOST EPIC SLEEVES in history. Poofy sleeves that hang all the way down to your knees.
Hah! Yeah, I feel like working class of any era gets automatically bumped up a level. I know absolutely zero about 16th c Ireland, but I'll go check it out, because I am if anything an enthusiast for epic sleeves. Thanks! 😁
Costuming as a hobby or wardrobe mix up gets spendy but is a lot of fun. My take on it is probably different than most as I'm a middle aged Goth. I did some vintage of prairie style that was popular in the early 80s. I did a bit of Korean costuming as all I had to do was raid my mother's closet. I mix a polonaise with jeans and flapper Mary Janes. Or I will do medieval cut and use it as a base for vampire. Actually almost all of my historical costuming mostly revolves around vampires and I wear this stuff as ordinary clothing. Many will cringe when they see that a garment of mine was constructed by a pattern from one of the big four companies. I'm not going after historical accuracy but a certain vibe as a vampire of whatever era. Roman and Grecian dresses are a lot of fun and can be worn in contemporary gatherings with most not knowing.
Exactly! I wear my chitons and stola out all the time and get nothing but compliments. And they're so comfy! And nothing wrong with the big four, especially when you're just starting out. My 18th century stays are from the AD Simplicity Outlander stays pattern, and they're great. Nobody's first makes are proud things to show off 🤣🤐
I looked through Nehelenia's patterns, and some of them are in PDF. Maybe if enough people request a specific pattern to be turned into PDF, they will do it? It looks like they have lots of great patterns. 🙂
I agree with the discussion of the mid 1800s, but something that had nagged at me is by singling it out, it does feel like costumers can potentially be ignoring that slavery was very much a thing for a long, long time. One of the projects I want to work on is partially based on a chemise a la reine, and I was on the fence about making it at first because to me, that particular garment also has a massive history with slavery- its cotton, and it was likely based on clothes commonly worn in the French Caribbean, including by white French slave owners. I'm not disagreeing with you at all regarding the 1860s, just saying the entanglement with fashion and slavery/colonialism is a very wide spanning issue (hell let's not get into the beetle wings or how England systematically destroyed the South Asian textile industry and how you can draw a direct line from that to the conditions garment workers face today in the same region).
I think that yes, there are plenty of costumers out there that like to ignore that fact. Will avoiding this specific time, place and intent increase the number of folks out there who will willingly smooth over the "unsavory" that has been rampant throughout history, not just this time period? That, I really don't know. I'd like to hope not. Is that naive? Probably 😬 I totally agree with you, though, about it being our duty as costumers to research, understand and most importantly acknowledge the context and origins of specific styles (and eras) that could be deemed problematic or are environmentally or socially harmful, etc. I think that's a great point and the Chemise gown is a perfect example, because as you said, it is fraught with some problematic history. When I made my red chemise gown earlier this year, I spent a LOT of time doing that research, listening to folks about the matter, and then making sure I acknowledged it in my video and left resources in the description for folks to go check out and further educate themselves, since I didn't feel like I was the person to really go into depth about the subject (and same with this one, honestly. Who am I to really understand?) And we definitely don't want to lose that--we want to encourage that in costumers who are coming from places of privilege. I'd argue it's our duty, so that our spaces are safer and more inclusive. I think where the difference is intent. Dressing up in one of those American Civil War outfits and going to a CW reenactment and hanging out on the confederate side is a lot different, and says a totally different thing, than wearing a chemise gown to a Georgian-themed picnic, especially if one does the work and the acknowledgement first. Again, I can only speak as someone of privilege, so take that with a grain of salt. Someone said earlier that with a lot of research and care, this era could be done, and I totally agree with that. For the sake of this video, though, still I feel my statement runs true: most beginners won't know how or where to even start to do that :\
@FantasticalFolliesCostuming yeah, I do think the thing that does make the 1860s exceptional is that racists particularly latch onto that era to glorify slaveowners in a way they don't with other eras. All eras of European and white American history get used by racists, but they're used in different ways; the dress of the 1860s in the US is very much used to glorify slavery in part because of how the southern belle is used, and in part because of films made about the era. Because it's seen as the point where slavery ended in the US (its sadly more complicated), it crystallizes in the public perception
So, this is something with a unique dynamic in America. You are completely correct. Even the fashions from 1650s are technically “slaveowner fashions” because that is how old the transatlantic slave trade is. However, if you’re a delusional American who believes the Civil War was about states’ rights to do anything besides own slaves and you generate a lot of useless nostalgia for the time period and maybe even display the common hatred/rebel flag on your car or in your home, you’re gonna be drawn to the Antebellum fashion period. That’s why OP is speaking to that section of history specifically. In American historical costuming culture, that’s where all the white supremacists are hiding. ESPECIALLY IN THE AMERICAN SOUTH. You might be American, idk, and you might already know this. I am just hoping to provide context. OP is a Texas resident (and so am I) so these are our red flags.
@@idrisa7909exactly. It’s like how weird white men are obsessed with WWII. Steer clear of them altogether lmfao. Yes, antisemitism and genocides of Jewish persons happened multiple times throughout history and held a lot of peaks in the medieval era. But the closet Nazis are obsessed with the 1940s specifically. You’re much less likely to find a white supremacist among medieval reenactors than you are among WWII stans.
I started 16th Century and could stay in that era forever. So easy, and the style is gorgeous. You can go very expensive complex silk and kirtle, or a simple wool kirtle (forgiving, relatively inexpensive fabric). And either way you go it is beautiful.
A great video for those starting out and those of us thinking about branching out. As an English Civil War re-enactor I agree wholeheartedly about the lack of 17th century patterns etc. Even the old standby of using portraiture is difficult as, let's face it, people don't really have portraits done in wartime. It's also very expensive, with about 4 yards of wool for a skirt, and heavy. I love it though, and the research can take you down some fascinating rabbit holes.
Thank you! And yet another reason why I lament the fact that I live in the US, and not in the UK. 😂 Although I'm partial to the Restoration vs the actual English Civil War. Still the same problems. Hopefully we can get more exposure and convince someone who (unlike me) knows how to make patterns to take up the cause 🤞
My first costuming piece was a Medieval gown that looked a lot like Merida's from Brave, except it was in creams and golds. It also started life as a set of curtains from a thrift shop! That was in either grade 7 or 8.
I did a lot of 15tth century reenactment back in the 90's; many curtains died in a noble cause back then. I had an amazing 1450's copper orange kirtle made from velvet with a black and gold stomacher. Absolutely gorgeous but so incredibly heavy
No kidding about the unavailability of 17th patterns.... *cries in 1640s* I know one guy who basically lives in the 17th century and as far as I know he wears it to any event he goes to though so there's at least three of us in the world.
LOL! I like it 😆 The interesting thing is that the more I talk about it, the more people come out of the woodwork, and say they've wanted to do it but have been intimidated. So just wearing 17th c to random events is a really good thing. I think people want to see other folks Do The Thing. It's definitely my go to era for events that don't have a required one!
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Yeah, it makes a difference seeing others do it. In my historical group we can theoretically do anything from the late 17th century to, I think, about the mid-19th, but the main focus is 18th to regency so it's easy to get stuck in those eras because that's what "everyone" does. The guy belongs to another group but sometimes joins us/our "neighbours" too and every time I see him I'm inspired to make the jump. There's really no reason not to (besides the cost of appropriate fabric, etc)!
wearing modern elastic waist linen pants with an early medieval tunic for a more "masculine" impression is a tip i like to share with people interested in going to events but can't/don't want to take on the task of sewing pants
My first proper period (and still my main period) is the renaissance. Simply bc I live in central europe and that 's a time that is commonly portrayed here. And the beautiful thing about the renaissance is you have exactly as much work as you make for yourself. Especially bc I am protraying a Trossfrau aka one of the women who was part of the group that followed the Landsknecht armies around. This means that even with fabric choice I can do whatever I want. There are woodcuts that have these women wearing brocade (likely stolen) but a more modest linen or wool dress also work great. You have the little strips of trim but quite frankly I'd rather sew on that than make a corset. German Renaissance is one of the areas where no support garments were used and even kirtles are a bit of a point of debate and you can definitely get away without wearing one. You just throw in a layer or two into the bodice section to stabilise things but that is it. The only part that you really should do that takes a lot of work is the damned slashes. with wool they are fine. with leather they are fine. with linen they are a veritable nightmare and I have chosen to just ignore the subject. But yeah I love the German renaissance for clothes. The garments are so comfortable and easy to make. And while I don't know of many patterns out there (bc I hate myself and prefer drafting things myself) there are great free recources out there that teach you how to draft the bodice yourself (and the skirt is a rectangle which is doable). And that being said if you want to spend time and money the sky is the limit. There are beautiful reproduction brocades out there (and they are "only" 50-150€ a meter unless you buy from that guy who custom makes them in Germany in which case you're looking at more like 300€). You can make a smocked chemise which is not too expensive but by god you do have to hate yourself to do this (I have made one). You can sew on pearls you can be incredibly free with embelishments. Additionally you can opt for tudor gowns which apparently have better resources but again even the german ones are fairly well-researched. Or you can make a Cranach dress which only really exists in paintings so nobody has a clue what is going on. Or, like I said, you can make a very simple dress with just one border at the bottom of the skirt and one around the neckline and that also looks great! And even with my dress (which is that latter one) it is very comfortable and very gorgeous. At a price of I believe 5m of linen if we include sleeves and the additional fabric I bought for the borders as well as the fabric for the hat plus however much fabric you want to use for your chemise (2 are enough. you can also use 4. Your choice. One of these options takes significantly more work) Edit: but yeah my first outfit (barring belt and such) cost me maybe 120-150€ in fabric including the chemise and all of it being linen.
Awesome, thank you so much for sharing all that! I'm literally in the process of cutting out a petticoat for my upcoming Renaissance project, and I find all this extremely helpful! 🧡
Ever since I was a teen I've been obsessed by the masculine tailoring and shelf butt of the later bustle period. I mostly blame the late and great Eiko Ishioka and her ten-years-out-of-date designs for Bram Stoker's Dracula. So anachronistic, yet so glorious. Unfortunately I will never have the skills or the money to own such a garment. *cries over her Harper's Bazar fashion sourcebook*
Those are exactly the things that draw me to that era, too, over the first bustle era. I'm gonna be tackling one of those for an event this December and I'm SUPER excited to get started 😁 BTW, since I am in total agreement with you about Dracula, if you haven't seen already, Casey from Casey Renee Cosplay is recreating Mina's red gown for Halloween. You should check out her channel/Instagram if you haven't yet!
I'm going straight into 17th century as my first ever full outfit and I'm mostly hand sewing since I'm away from home at the moment, finished a hip pad and working my way through undergarments first before i reach the final boss: The structured Bodice. I will cry, I will bleed, but at the end of it I'm not expecting it to be historically accurate i just want something that looks 17th century since its my favourite century.
That is BRAVE! 🤣 Good luck--and remember, don't expect the bodice to turn out perfect the first time. It's a skill, and it's ok for it to turn out imperfect! 🧡
My first project was a chaperon from the middle ages. There is a character in this video game called Kingdom Come Deliverence and he wears a chaperon. I liked him so I wanted to have a chaperon for myself.
Great and informative video! I would like to do the 1790's, 1830's and the late Stuart period of the 17th century (Charles ll to William & Mary). Though I'm not a fan of Jane Austen, I certainly would do the Regency era as it looks easier and there are some great patterns available for the period. I think more people would be trying the 17th century if there only some decent patterns out there. The two from Nehelenia do look good for the early years of the Restoration. The gowns from the 1670's are my favorites too! 🥰 🧡
All good eras! I agree about the 17th century. I'm hoping if I do more from the era, more will want to do the era, and it'll snowball 🤷♀️ Regency IS easy and just good to have. It doesn't take a lot of money or resources, either.
Yes! The videos you do on the 17th century will help greatly. Now if we just had a few good patterns, I think it could take off. 🧡@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming
I'm a professional costume designer and I have a horde of 17th century patterns. They are out there and granted, half of my horde is out of print, but even the historical reconstruction pattern companies have some great options. It's a great period and I had a 30 person show to costume a few years ago...I didn't have time to draft (other than a cartwheel), so I used pre-made and altered as needed because I know the period very well. I guess thats the key. Love the video!!
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it! It's interesting you say that, because I've been scouring the internet for three years now and haven't found a single commercially available pattern for the late 17th century outside of the 1660's gown on Nehelenia Patterns and Reconstructing History, whose patterns are abominable. If you know of other pattern companies, please share! I grow tired of having to scale up from POF.
I mean, it's 2020. The 1920's were 100 years ago now. Also, many of these rules only apply to the upper crust of the upper class. If you do middle to lower class, the cost of the "yikes" categories drops significantly. Take 1870's for example. A middle-class day gown can be made of lightweight cotton, only about 7-8 yards if you're careful. (I did mine with only 6 yards, and had enough for an evening bodice in addition to a day bodice.) The bustle is small enough and the fabric lightweight enough that you can get away with just a bustle pad. Same with Civil War... cost and difficulty drops significantly the lower class you go. (Side note, Mrs. Lincoln's dress maker was a black woman who bought her way out of slavery by making those dresses that were "oppressive." It really does just depend on how you present it.) On a lighter note, one extremely easy category that I would love to see more of is ancient Egypt. Most ancient Egyptian clothing were "wrap, tuck, and tie" type garments, extremely easy to make. All you need to sew is a top and bottom seam where the fabric is cut, maybe a neck hole if you make a tunic.
18:02 hold up, why not? Ok I understand if you were to talk specifically about slavery, but if you do touch onto a subject different from it, I see it as perfectly fine
I’m almost a historical costumer. I don’t have a lot of time on my hands to make things, but when I do it’s extra. I drafted the pattern for Guinevere’s blue gown from King Arthur 2004 and drafted a one-hour dress pattern to make and wear to a friend’s 1920s themed party, and I’ve made one regency dress that’s both too big AND too small all at once… funny how that happens! My next project is some 1700s stays, about 1740-ish? And a real problem I have is that I get intimidated by some of what I see in the community. The feeling of seeing “I hand sewed everything down to the last stitch and I never even LOOKED at a sewing machine and I hand finished all the seams and I drafted my own pattern based off of one image and i embroidered 7 yards by hand and I only use period-appropriate fabrics” and getting overwhelmed. Thanks for making a video that describes the pros and cons for many eras while also taking cost and time into account.
Oh, yeah, something too big and too small all at once, I run into that a LOT 🤣 I feel ya! It's hard not to be intimidated by those people, I struggle against it, too. Best advice I can offer is to not try and compare yourself to anyone else. We all have our own journey and abilities, and you can only do what your own constraints allow. Some people will judge you for not having everything hand stitched and HA, but those folks are gatekeepers and 100% not worth your time. For every one of those, there are two of us out there who don't care if you're in a machine-sewed, synthetic gown. The important thing is that you do what makes you happy!! We all have to start somewhere, and there are plenty of experienced historical costumers that still machine stitch and use poly, myself included. Good luck on your stays! It's not easy, but stick with it. Do mockups. If it's your first pair, don't spend a lot on your fashion fabrics, and know that you'll probably have some issues with the final make. That's ok! It's expected, and part of the learning process 🧡
Remember that some people who make their costumes using "authentic methods" are doing it because they personally enjoy the anthropological, or living history aspect of it, and all the things they can learn through the process. They do it because it fascinates them. If they geek out about how they had made a thing, and the things they learned, they may honestly be sharing their fascination - rather than having any judgement about the choices you made. Even pointing out an anachronism, might actually be more of an infodump about something nifty. I say this because Autistic and ADHD people can often be misunderstood when sharing their fascination with a hobby, even among other people who are into it. Then there are the gate keeping people who do it that way because they want some kind of "superiority points". Eff that. They say things like "well, I'm not sure people who don't invest the time and money in their garments really "belong" here. Which is quite different than seeing something technically inaccurate about your garment, and saying "I read this thing that explained the reason for..." Either way... work to whatever level of adequacy or precision suits your wants and needs for that project, and don't let what others are doing take away from your curiosity and fulfilment.
I'm an experienced sewer (62 years!)& my first costume was an 1860s skirt & Garibaldi blouse. Pleating the skirt waist just about drove me crazy until I learned that each pleat doesn't have to be the exact same size! Next I moved on to Regency & it went very smoothly. I do always have to do some adjusting, but that's what mock-ups are for. I have all my underpinnings & 1780s gown ready for #angelicathon & will be wearing it to the DFWCG Georgian Picnic. See you there!
Thank you so much for making this video! The other day I was just thinking about which era would be the easiest to start with and this video was very helpful!
I really appreciate your comments on the American Civil War era. I've come to really love the silhouette and flow of those dresses but their beauty absolutely can't be separated from their historical baggage. I can't imagine putting one on and walking around without being constantly aware of what white femininity meant in that era and what atrocities that image was used to justify. Honestly even the earlier usage of cotton feels a little fraught to me. Anyway thanks for all your fantastic insights, I can't wait to make my first chiton this week!
One other thing, as an African American I believe in owning and possessing the antebellum era. Taking it back from the weird reenactment people. A sort of alternate timeline where girls as dark as I am were wearing the fancy shit. Especially if the gowns have the espionage revisions they were known to have for women who were spies and couriers during the war. But I think that is my prerogative as a member of the stolen race. I would in fact side eye antebellum costumers who had tone deaf ideals about the time period. It’s not banned or race restricted IMO, it just needs to be approached with respect in the same way that I wouldn’t be too cavalier in 1940’s garb. Any era with a genocide or similar oppressive constant needs sensitivity.
YES!! To all of this! 😊 (Also, I had no idea there were modifications in those gowns for espionage. I hope you get a chance to do that, because it would be SO. FREAKING. AWESOME.)
disclaimer: i mainly know more about men's fashion victorian onward, and only occasionally consume women's fashion history. i'm curious as to why the civil war era is different compared to all the others. what makes it okay to dress as a victorian aristocratic who's okay with colonialism or a medieval noble who also owns slaves and land with serfs? i totally understand if it's a specific thing about those gowns that makes them a symbol of oppression, i just don't know anything about that place/period from the fashion side of things
It's about the context, and the intent of the wearers in those costumes at certain themed events and historical recreations that happen here in the States, especially in the South. There's a lot of longing for the "good ole days" when, basically, being racist was socially acceptable. Whereas like, someone dressing up as a Victorian aristocrat's not necessarily doing it with that same intent. It's very nuanced and VERY specific to the American Civil War. You can scroll through the comments, there were a few international folks I replied to with some more detail/reference if you'd like further explanation.
If you love the Edwardian silhouette but don't have the time and money for fiddly lace and diaphanous fabrics, look towards working class or middle-class office-wear from that period. Those are a bit closer to "Previous Sewing Experience" than "It's Gonna Cost 'Ya", as they maintained some of the 1890s' simplicity. There are plenty of period resources available online for dressing on a budget (ie. Vogue and The Ladies' Home Journal) containing advice which serves just as well for costumers today! And yes, those tips included piecing the corners of your skirts.
I love my Edwardian walking skirt! Big fabric panels, but it comes together really easy and the SWOOSH of the pleated fullness in the back is fantastic.
@@dianagreene4257heck yeah. Mine has a pocket large enough to hold a chihuahua! It’s in an odd place because of the seaming, so it does appear I’ve pulled whatever’s in it out of my arse, but they’re brilliant pieces to have on hand!
Lol im an idiot and started with an 1850s puffed sleeve crinoline dress which i sewed entirely by hand because i had no machine. Friends, do not do this. Please just dont... honestly its a miracle it turned out ok though i was working on it for 2 months... 😅
I’m a bit late with my comment but you can reduce the cost of crinolines and bustles a lot if you use spring steel pipe cleaners to bone these. It works perfectly, doesn’t get out of shape and looks authentic. The only problem is that you need tools to cut it.
I whipped something like five ancient Greek tunics out of old bedsheets in an anfternoon with the crappiest sewing machine on Earth for a school play when I was 15 and had only the most basic understanind knowledge of sewing and a friend who could... cut fabric straight as an assistant. We had lots of fun and the costumes were nice enough from a distance despite the wonky hems. I recently recycled the tunic I had left into a Regency chemise, after years of using it as a nightgown. I love these versatile garments so much... I am now planning (procrastinating) to make a medieval gown and a Regency one, but life got in the way and I don't have events to go to so my priority goes to dailywear sewing. I do ear my 1890's split skirt a lot though, and am asving money to buy wool for a winter version. (Most of my sewing limitations are due to budget rather than skill, it's kind of frustrating)
Heh, I'm glad Medieval got to be in "absolutely". That's my thing. And though I've been sewing since I was about thirteen, I'm honestly not great at it, just persistent. I'm also really interested in working class anything, male or female, for historybounding purposes. So far, a kirtle based on Morgan Donner's self-drafting video has been my most successful supportive garment, though I'm trying to bodge together some stays.. I've got a Victorian Walking Skirt in the makings and I think since my pinafore kirtle was so successful I'm going to do a full length one out of the other half of the lovely purple linen I got for my birthday. I'm all about making do with what I've got, and the rectangles-and-gores thing really appeals to me for rather a lot of things so far. What I want and have been meaning to make since the start of the pandemic is an outfit I can wear during medieval festivals when I'm not in my battle armour. And I've got an event tomorrow. Did I do the thing? NOPE. Made a bunch of other wearable stuff though...
Yeah, medieval's a great place to be! And making do is a good thing. I fully believe i utilizing what you already have...especially of you're someone who acquires a lot of stash. Ahem. Not that I know anything about that...😳
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Oh, no, none of us have any idea what you're talking about... Who has a stash that's exceeded two steamer trunks and is now including multiple plastic totes and a few giant ziploc bags for wool... certainly not me...
Because I am a fan of the Hocus Pocus films my fave era is 1650 to 1690. Unsurprisingly this era is in the "NOPE" category. 🤣 I have noticed when looking for sewing patterns for this era that there is very little available. 😞 That partially explains why the clothing in those films are more loose interpretations. There was also no internet in 1992, so research would have been difficult. (That doesn't explain the loose interpretations for the 2022 film though). 🤔
Hah! I do love Hocus Pocus so much. I will say, as far as I know, they were never going for any kind of historical accuracy. More of a ~vibe~, especially for the witches, one that I actually love. I never expect any kind of attention to accuracy in Disney films 🤣
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Yes you're right. And even if they had wanted to, it would probably have been very hard for a time-constrained film costumer to have done all that research before the internet age. 🙂
That is a SOLID point! Thanks for bringing that up! Some 17th century, though, hah! I can't imagine walking around with my giant trained mantua trailing in the dirt...🤣
I'm starting with the 1890s, mainly because of Bernadette, but I do have a _lot_ of previous sewing experience. I'm also extremely lucky to have been able to draft an 1890s corset and have it fit me first try, so we'll see how that goes.
It may take some time, especially if you are not in a metro area. Check Facebook groups, Meetup, google. Despite living in a major city, I do have to drive 2-3 hours, which can be a pain...but there are folks out there! Good luck!
started out in english medieval costume of around the 11th century inspired by the bayeux tapestry. super easy and almost every pattern piece is basic rectangles and triangles and you end up with some very comfortable colourful clothes that you can wear around the house. doing chores and mowing the lawn is 10x more fun when wearing a tunic, braies, and linen cap
Ugh, I feel you SO HARD on the 17th century section. There are sooo few resources out there and, disappointingly, little interest in the historical costuming community for recreating that period. (Which, like, why?!? You'd think at the very least there'd be more interest in the 1620s-ish time period because of the pop culture icon that is The Three Musketeers... which was definitely NOT the reason why I got into the 17th century to begin with, haha...) So yeah, I'm definitely NOT bitter. Not bitter in the LEAST😭😒
YEAH! You'd think! 😫 It's tragic, and I feel your bitterness 💯. I think a lot of the disinterest lies in the lack of resources. Folks are intimidated, at least from the conversations I've had, with beginners and experts alike. Gear up, though! For sure gonna be some 1660's happening here, at least, in the next couple of months!
Pioneers and Victorians and pirates and cowboys are all invaders and colonizers. If you're going to do any white-centric historical larping in the Americas, you shouldn't forget that none of it is actually inoffensive. That said, I like pretty clothes and silly costumes.
I completely agree. I think it's important for all costumers to stop and acknowledge the damage that has been done to marginalized people and the roles that folks like the Victorians played in that. It hearkens back to Dandy Wellington's "Vintage Style, Not Vintage Values," which I wholeheartedly support.
I am definitely a run before you can walk kind of person so my first was an Elizabethan noble woman for the Ren Fair in So Cal. It was made with modern upholstery fabric, did not have the correct under garments and looked God awful. Not to mention it was HOT! How I did not get heat stroke I'll never know.
Give me a light leather (or leather look) kirtle bodice and a big feather, I'm going Golden Age of Piracy, matey. Poofy sleeve pirate shirt from rectangles. Pants from rectangles that are adjustable. So much fun,
So thrilled that the Medieval Era is accessible! I have basically no sewing experience and I just want to look unconventional as I work remotely! I also have a tiny crush on the variety of chitons from Ancient Greece. If I was a bridgerton fan I might be frustrated, but for once my expectations seem to suit reality. Kirtles, here I come!
That's such a great motivation, I love it! 😁 And yes! Kirtles (and chitons!) are totally awesome places to start (and wear while sitting at a desk!) Good luck in your endeavors! 🍀
my first big project was 1860ś work wear but i didnt actually make the under garments im still too intimidated to make a corset and i dont have the budjet to get one made.
Yeah, I feel like a lot of folks feel that way. It doesn't help that corsets in particular are costly to even make, and it's a skill that requires some practice to succeed. Have you ever considered trying a pair of stays, first, as practice? There are a lot of cheap (or free) stays patterns out there, and they can be made using quilting cotton and zip ties, which are cheap, and they're great to have for historybounding/hobbitbounding/Ren faires, even if you're not interested in 18th century as an era.
If you are autistic and want to get into historical costuming, the only correct answer for the "first era to do" is...the one that you are interested in. It might take longer. It might cost a lot of money. But the motivation will just not be there for other ones. Which is why I started with 1860s. :-)
Excellent! Medieval-inspired history bounding is the only one I'm actually interested in. And my toe dip is refashioning a 1990s, cotton, button front maxi dress into an overdress. The back, hem to just above the knee looks like a puppy got very bored. So, it's not like I'm even taking a "wearable" garment out of the world, so it was easy to tell myself "enh. If you end up with anything, it's literally been saved from garbage. So if ends up being crap. You also haven'r wasted anything. You just learned things. Watching costube is the hobby.
i am quite a beginner costumer and I mostly do 1890s and edwardian but I buy basic simple antique corsets covers and petticoats because they are so annoying to make tbh and cheap to buy over there haha. I also do vintage (30s-40s and 70s) but i don't do it in a historical accurate goal, just for everyday wear.
You said that 1900-1910 would be considered the historical Edwardian period while 1920+ fashion would be considered vintage, not historical. Would the period from 1910-1920 be considered Vintage or Historical?
I'd consider it historical. As far as I know (and what I know is VERY limited, which is why I didn't mention this era in the video,) you still need full structural undergarments for this period. I know Scroop makes a bunch of stuff from this era, including a new corset pattern, so if you're interested in doing it, might be a good place to start.
As a person who started with an 1880s walking suit, starting off with a sorta big project taught me A LOT of things about Victorian fashion, not saying to start off with a big project, but doing that project kinda had me set further on, but did not teach me about robe ele Franceis
It is a bit sad that you skim over masculine garments, since there are some post-1500s styles that do work for beginners. Especially undress like banyans, and ironically some of the looser softer mid-17th century jackets and petticoat breeches (even a justacorps is much easier than a regency tailcoat, and within regency, directorie styles have a bit more give if you aren't afraid of looking a bit Jacobin.) Unfortunately masculine people get a bit disheartened with the hobby when the first recommendations are either "Sew a bunch of petticoats" or "Spend 2 years sewing rectangle tunics, maybe a 20 yard houplelande if you can find a non-existent pattern". And there really are ways of overcoming the leap from medieval to the full post-regency tailoring era in a gradual manner.
I wish I COULD have spoken more about masculine clothing. The problem is I have no experience with it apart from a pair of absolutely cursed 18th century breeches (😳), so I didn't feel like it was my place to talk about it. I totally agree with you that masculine folks do get the short end of the stick as far as historical clothing is concerned, especially on the stuff that isn't difficult! I am going to be venturing into some late 17th century masculine clothing next year! I'm definitely interested in it, it's just a more difficult skill I'm still learning. Especially on my body, which is basically Dolly Parton if she were a hobbit. 🤣
The masculine historical YT sewer that comes to mind is Dolthalion. There are probably more. But I never sew male clothing so I don't know of them. 🤔 You just have to search, I guess. Sorry I can't help.
My very very first piece was a set of combinations (one piece chemise and drawers) which I loved so much I made half a dozen more in soft summer fabrics with a closed crotch and wore them as rompers for _years!_ 😂
To be honest, I think you're overdoing it a bit with the recommendation to avoid the Civil War. I think your advice is reasonable if you're specifically aiming it at people who live in the South, or whose local reenactment community is one of those weirdly pro-Confederate ones, but the context of those garments can vary wildly depending on where you are, the specifics of the event you're attending, and the quirks of individual reenacting groups. The most problematic aspects of that era are noticeably less present up here in the North, where people tend to have a much more pro-Union bent (although the Confederate sympathizers ARE present and you gotta watch out for them). It's still definitely an era you need to be careful with and I wouldn't recommend anyone jump into it without doing some serious research and learning what events and groups to avoid, but I don't think telling people to flat-out not do it is the answer.
I did specify the South. Also, if you're white and doing that era, it's still a red flag for a lot of people no matter where in the States you're from, because they don't necessarily know that right off the bat. Yes, it can be done, if a lot of care and attention go into it, but beginners don't know that and won't have the skills to do so--quite apart from the cost and difficulty, which still put it in the Nope category.
Appreciate the passionate point of view on Civil War, as a beginner project i understand your stance, but suffering is attached to other eras as well. Many suffered in history not just in that time period. Explore it if you want but be aware of the optics would have been enough to say here. We all have lived through the last few years of events.
love love love historical costuming but honestly terrified of making a corset, so i've been learning how to sew through pattern-drafting and vintage dresses (mainly 1940-1950) I don't have access to a sewing machine this year, but hopefully by next summer I'll have the confidence to tackle some underpinnings! (as a victorian lit scholar im OBSESSED with the thought of making my own 1890s ensemble)
Making a corset is hard, but it's not impossible. It's definitely a great practice to go into your first one knowing that it's not going to be a success, 'cause it's the first one! Use cheaper fabrics and supplies (but still invest in decent zip ties, plus steel bones for around your grommets, you can always reuse them later if you need to), and allow yourself to make mistakes--because 100% that's the best way to learn the process! You could also make a cheap pair of stays, first, something that you don't care about ~as much~ so you can get that fitting experience without feeling like there's a bunch of stuff at stake (and stays are so much easier than corsets.) Definitely NOT a good project without a sewing machine, though, so my fingers are crossed that you find your confidence when you end up having access to one, because you absolutely deserve that 1890's ensemble 🧡
Meanwhile I'm telling myself that I can put together a Halloween costume of a Victorian-era nurse is completely possible when I have maybe fifteen hours to put it together and not a lot of money. 😂
LOL! I've so been there! Do you just need the outfit, or all the underpinnings? 😬 Here's a tip. Joann's sells wide quilting cotton, like, 109" wide or something like that. If you use a coupon, or if it's on sale, it's usually around $6 a yard, cuts your yardage requirement in half and is decently structured. Won't help with the pattern cost, or any of the underpinnings, but it's really economical as far as fabric goes, if you don't wanna use thrifted old sheets
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming everything. 😵💫 But since this is not going to be judged on accuracy, I will be able to cheat a little! Or a lot, since I'll be working from the outside in - in a pinch I can pin and fluff some of my ren faire garb to use as a petticoat and corset cover. Corsetry...eh, it might have to be a more modern over bust but we shall see. (I'm also the proud owner of a LOT of fabric, so not a lot of expenditure there.)
Anytime you want to go wear your 1830's or 1740's let me know! There are a dearth of costumers around me, and oh-so-many places we could wear them! Plus Louisiana isn't that far from Texas -- relatively speaking
I think the thing with Romantic is, it looks HORRIBLE in fashion prints, but on a human it's so much fun! Technically, my first "historical" costume was a Regency-style ballgown made of duipioni silk. It was the second thing I had ever made. Yes, there were tears. I did make a shift and bodiced petticoat first. I still have it, and it's still needs a proper closure in the back, but I'm thinking of selling it with the popularity of Bridgerton. It's actually not badly made considering I had NO IDEA what I was doing. But proper wardrobe? 1770s working class woman kit for AWI reenacting and Living History. I spent at least a year researching what I should buy and make, found a group, and then spent the winter of 2007-8 working on a basic kit. I made a lot of mistakes (no, you DO NOT want your petticoats ankle length if you are going to be in mud all weekend), regardless of my research, but it was servicible. With the digitization of museum collections and release of the "Threads of Feeling" exhibit and book, it was a mind blowing and game changing as far as what we thought working people owned and wore and were capable of (embroidery! reading and writing! silk ribbons! calico!) I at first did this period because I love the high fashion of it, but I ended up falling in love with and having a lot of fun with being a working class slob, and it has gotten me interested in other eras of ordinary people (ie, the mid-victorian working class dress you mentioned, and really the working class of any era after). I unfortunately did not have a set of stays, which as a small busted person, I was able to get away with for years, but after several traumatic attempts to make a pair, I took my surplus money in 2021 and had someone make me a pair for about $400. Well worth not crying and screaming for hours and months. To be fair, there was a 6 year period where I did no events, so it's not as egregious as it sounds. I am doing in fits and starts a transisitional period of 1917-1923. It's weird an funky but actually kind of fun to wear. If I could absolutely spend money and time on an era, it would be very early 1890s. I actually figured out how much time and money I would have to put into it, and it proved to be a bit cost prohibitive in both, mostly because of boots and corset. Though your ranking has me second guessing.
I am one of the crazy ones. I am making my own lace for an Edwardian blouse. I mean what is a girl to do when she hates nearly all commercial lace. My answer learn how to make it for myself! LOL
I started with Italian Ren (SCA events) many years ago and then after almost a decade of not sewing historical I got back into it with the 1890s and making my first corset. I have plans to branch out into Edwardian and German Ren in the next year, and hope to make some Regency in the near future. Now I just need to find more time to sew.
This is such a great video and you are spot on! I started my costuming journey about 3-4 years ago, BUT the first thing I made was *drumroll* ... Roman. Then I moved to Medieval. I made a Regency dress. More Medieval. Then Working class late Victorian/early Edwardian. I made Redthreaded's Short Stays, I drafted and made my own generic Victorian corset. I made a simplified pair of 18th century stays, to go with a men's shirt and a basic skirt. Everything you said beginners should go into, I did as I began my journey. That said, I am STAYING in these points because my wardrobe is meant to be wearable - and kirtles are fantastic, as are walking skirts.
Hah! That's so validating 🤣 Glad my journey was similar to others! I love that you focus on stuff that's wearable. I have a similar rule, where every costume needs to either contain an element I can wear IRL, or serve for a multitude of uses. (Or, win enough competitions to pay for the cost of the supplies. Less sustainable.)
😂😂😂 I atarted out woth Regency (well, technically started out with Vintage as the Rockabilly movement of the early 2010's ate (and continues to eat) my entire personality), then did an early Elizabethan Renaissance gown because my husband wanted to dive into various eras of men's fashion and Medival menswear was very uninspiring to him. (Please note, this is the same guy who put together an entire Regency men's ensemble, including the top hat for his FIRST SEWING PROJECT, and then promptly totally ate and left no crumbs🔥❤️). I love this video.
2010s Rockabilly is LOVE 😍 And honestly, dissing Medieval menswear for Regency is totally logical. I kind of think it's the most attractive male fashion ever 🤐 But WOW!!! Those are skills, I'm so impressed by him!! 👏👏
My first historical costume (tm) was a viking set; an underdress and an apron-dress (which I did according to my own ideas, because there’s little to no sourcing.) So. So easy. No underpinnings necessary, and it’s yardage-effective as construction is all rectangles and triangles. And linen is always comfy. :D
I find linen a bit scratchy-what do you wash it with? I’d love to wear it more because it’s so breezy in the summer but it makes my chest and shoulders itch so!!
@@maddiedoesntkno I don't find it scratchy at all, though it usually gets softer and softer with use and washing. But the quality of linen can vary a great deal. The thinner versions tend to be nice and smooth in my experience, though, and that's usually what I wear directly on my skin. :)
I am sticking mainly to the period of 1760-1820 in costuming, because it is my favorite period. I also have made a 1690s mantua that was so fun! I wanted to do late Victorian as well, but decided not to since I found out that the Victorian society in my country not seems to be nice people. The 18th century folks here are amazing though! 😍
I started with 15th Century italian and quickly switched to scandinavian penisula square construction. Also, I already had previous sewing patterns but this time I was making my own patterns due to size requirements.
I don't really have the time or the economy for sewing my own clothes (especially since I don't currently have a sewing machine), but I'm going to imagine this as my fantasy to-do list. Though frankly, if I ever were to get to that point, I'd probably be more interested in masculine costuming for several if not most periods. Not that crew cut hair would be historically accurate for men either during most of history, but I'm way to butch to be comfortable with cleavage fashion.
Nothin' wrong with that! I AM planning to do some 17th century masc costuming later this year, although it's going to be the frippiest and most ridiculous of all the fashions...so I'm not sure how much it counts 😂
Start was Anglo Saxon- layered t-tunics are So Easy And how dare you denigrate my beloved early 17th styles! 1610 is my happy place! The jackets and loose gowns and hanging sleeves and short waists and ruffs and huiks and lobster bodices...
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Well I do have some sewing skills already, and I've been toying with/semi-researching the idea for a while, but the real motivation to actually do it was when I found this awesome emerald green stretch taffeta for pretty cheap that I just had to make a dress out of. I didn't even know what kind of dress, but then I found this other fabric on the bargain table that went with it beautifully, and it was enough for a skirt which made me start getting ideas.... What I finally came up with was a beautiful mess, or more accurately a proverbial Frankenstein's Monster, that takes inspiration from both the Victorian era and the Robe a la Francaís, but with my own modern tweaks, which are partly to make me a little less work because I'm lazy, and partly to keep the project within my skills. And I totally plan to finish this, but I expect it will take a good long while, because I keep procrastinating, and also getting distracted with working on other stuff. I blame the ADHD.
For US Civil War, there is need to represent anti slavery pro abolition African Americans & Euro Americans. If NO to Scarlett OHara (800 years of English colonialism!!) then YES to Sojourner Truth, Harriet Tubman,Elizabeth Staton Sarah & Angelina Grimke, etc. Do not throw out the baby + bath water!!
As I stated in the video, as well as in many of the comments, there is absolutely a necessity to respresent the aforementioned people as well as that era. But that is a space for BIPOC creators, as well as historians and educators who have spent the time researching and understanding the era and its problems in a way that they're able to respresent it in a considerate and inclusive way. NOT by beginners to historical costuming, who may have the best intentions, but definitely do not have the knowledge or the skills yet. Which is the whole point of this video.
I'm kinda sad you didn't talk about my favorite: 1889-1890, the bustle shape was perfect, but the leg o muttons hadn't yet gotten completely out of control lol (I'm a big femme and prefer not to put emphasis on my already broad shoulders) Okay, I suppose technically it's sort of covered, but my taste is so damned specific xD
Thank you for making this VERY fun VERY useful video! I wanted to know where I can go after Ancient Greece and I'm going to take your advice! I personally started with Ancient Egypt. Like the Greeks they mostly worked with rectangles, but because we have extant garments from Ancient Egypt their construction and techniques are extremely well-documented, to the point that we know the exact stitches to use for seams and hems.
Video Idea : Can you do a tier list for Disney Princesses on Historical Accuracy? While some like Elsa, Jasmine can be Historically mess, but there are some who were actually really accurate and fabulous, like Cinderella, Mulan, and Tiana!
I'm a beginner and I'm working in the late Victorian period. I find skirts to be the easiest to make and the most difficult thing to make for me was an Edwardian style blouse. It's coming together, but it took me a few months to understand the pattern and how to construct the thing. I've also never sewn on buttons before nor have I sewn buttonholes. It's been almost a year since I started sewing and I have one whole outfit to show for it. I do plan on sewing an entire wardrobe but I'm going to take my time due to the cost of the fabric that I want and simply because of the fact that I also have a full time job. Sewing is a hobby to me to learn how to make my own clothes and learn about historical fashion.
As a black American woman who also likes fashion history, I don't think there's anything wrong with civil war fashion. If you don't want to recreate civil war looks because of what was happening at the time, then we basically wouldn't be able to recreate any looks from any time period. Slavery and injustice has a long history. Theres a saying for this. Vintage fashion not vintage values.
This is so cool. I'm not ready to start a historical project, but I'm very interested in the practical aspects - the underpinnings, the materials - of what would go into a dream dress haha. I love you for talking this through in such detail, and I'll probably listen to this video again in future.
Thank you! That is an exceptional compliment, I'm so glad this is useful! It's good you're thinking about your underpinnings! Definitely where you want to start, especially with a dream project! 😁
You know what's a great beginner project? A linen shift. Grab some white/unbleached linen, find Morgan Donner's tutorial from a few years ago, and improvise your way to a great underlayer. But what if it ends up looking weird? Who cares! You've learned enough to make a lovely dress to cover the imperfections. Remember, a lot of the clothing we still have in museums is from wealthy people. Us normal folk improvised, mended, and sometimes messed up construction. NOBODY will notice your 'mistakes'. PS: that linen shift is amazing to sleep in, to wear under modern dresses to keep them clean, to just wear in summer around the house if it's hot. So many uses out of one basic project.
😅😅😅 as someone who is playing around in the 16th century… dear god brace yourself for the cost. Even just getting wool for a lower class impression? SPENDYYYYY. Linen? Gonna cost ya.
Something that really differentiate Grecian and roman dress to me is the hairstyling i haven't as of yet seen that many roman hairstyles that were on the easy side, but they're a lot of fun
@@maddiedoesntkno and braids (generally two to ten-ish, more tends to veer into box braid territory) those around the begining of the first millenum after the split from the western and the byzantine empire) that generally look like a smoothe rounded bob are probably hiding a lot of complex structure that is lost to us (art generally looking more stylised at that time)
I’ll share what has helped me. I’m African American so a ton of these hairstyles aren’t made for my hair type. But if you look carefully, you can almost always find at least one FREE black woman hanging around a Western civilization. So I watch what those women did with their hair. Another thing that helps is to look at the hairstyle for what it is and work with what your hair can handle. Its helpful to know your hairtype (1-4, a-c). If you have 1a hair, its not going to hold a curl well and it’s not going to give Athenian ringlets, but every woman in Ancient Greece was not blessed with curly hair. What did they do instead? Be prepared to accessorize! I have 3c-4a hair, so I can work with my hair to loosen my tight curls into ringlets, or I can weave a solid headdress into my hair and still look very Greco-Roman. This is how we work with modern styles today, we just don’t think about it as consciously. I never get extensions even though they are extremely popular today because it’s expensive and not suitable for my hair type, but I belong in this era and am a native of this era nonetheless.
Fun video! Though I'd like to add that for 1890s corset, you can opt to make one out of a straight busk instead of a spoon busk as it is surprisingly historically accurate for the entire Victorian era. While a spoon busk corset will be historically accurate for 1870s - 1890s (at least through my untrained eye and looking at patents, fashion prints, magazine and newspaper ads). It's no wonder why so many people love 1890s for its practicality and versatility😁
I started with regency and 18th century, but got a pair of 18th century stays from Jas Townsend. Unfortunately, now I’ve got Long Covid I am going to have to figure out a disabled friendly way of closing up stays and something to do with the back that leaves a little adjustability
I'm happy living vicariously through costube but I have wanted a full pin stripe suit like Bernadette's for about 20 years and 1890s is the best silhouette. I also really want to make a kirtle. I appreciate the methodology to this video, not many people mention costs in sewing videos but it can be so prohibitive especially when you're starting out and scared of messing up
Yeah, that suit is 🤩! Making a kirtle is great. I love mine, I made it with convertible sleeves, and I get a lot of use out of it!
And thank you! I'm glad mentioning costs is helpful. I agree that it can really be prohibitive, esp. for beginners. I like to encourage folks to always use cheap materials on the first few makes.
The wonderful thing about kirtles, and even older dresses, is that you have such variety. I would look into old Norse/Finnish dresses - they're not fitted and thus extremely forgiving for a newbie. And if you make one of those in wool you will LIVE IN IT. NOTHING beats the comfort provided by early Medieval clothing. You won't want jeans again.
Great video!
I love early 17th century, but those late 17th and early 18th century mantuas are a hard pass for me. Mid 17th century is good too.
Thank you! 😊
Hah! We're basically opposites 🤣 I love my mantua. I do love mid! But my favorite is the 1670's, when the fabrics get a little less plain and we're getting the gown-over-petticoat look and still have poofy sleeves. 🤩
I sew mostly 14th and 15th century clothes. Dresses are easier. I can not make pants.
Pants are definitely a challenge!
as a person who dove into recreating historical garments staright into 17th century, I wholeheartedly agree with you XD
Oooooh my god! 🤣🤣 You are BRAVE 👏
XD or stupid XD I wanted to make ont one but TWO dresses. IN the end, the one I made for m,y firend was quite a good take on the recreation, the one for me was a total mess. I wonder WHY XD Did I learn my lesson? NOPE. A year later I took upon myself not only changing the dress for a friend (adding trims and changing the petticoat) but also making my own AND my boyfriend's costumes. That was my breaking point though - I didn't try to take that era ever since. But I actually bought the book you showed ;) It is AMAZING. Still, I deeply admire you for actually fitting those damned stays on yourself. And they look freaking fantastic, too
Honestly, the reason I want to start sewing is for 17th century fashion... I'm honestly still tempted to start with it despite the video and just suffer all the way through... we'll see lol
Renaissance: it'll cost ya
Renaissance with any sort of slashing: If you like crying.
LOLOLOL oh, yeah, that is a very good distinction. One that I may or may not soon discover for myself when I tackle my Halloween costume 😂
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming good luck! At least you're hopefully not doing 1530s Italian men's pants, those are.... very poofy and slashy and tedious.
@@chaotic-goodartistry3903 I am not, but now I WANT to! 🤣
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming If you do, I'd recommend looking at The Opera Nova by Achille Marozzo, which is an Italian fencing manual from the 1530s with a ton of full-body drawings. It's a wonderful source for Italian high-fashion since portraits of the time that show the legs are hard to come by.
My first era was “Renn Faire” where I could start from some true historical patterns but not worry so much about the details or accurate ($$$$) fabrics
That's a GREAT place to start!
I love how "you should go to events! Make friends!" is the biggest motivation in this video 😂 but alas, I'm an introvert and don't wanna leave my house 😂
Eta: not me, listening and working on an 1860s working gown yelling about hoop steel costs 😂😭
I mean...I am also an introvert who does not like leaving the house 🤷♀️ but to me, I joined the community precisely so I had a reason to wear my costumes somewhere, so it overrides natural instinct 🤣
Heh heh heh. That steel's PRICEY.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming 😂😂😂😂 thats so valid. I just plan on wearing them day to day. Life's short, if I'm gonna have to suffer existence while shopping in a walmart I'm gonna be wearing something that would make my stuffy puritan ancestors cringe to make up for the emotional damage 😂
Why is hoop steel so expensive 😭😭😭 the cost of the underpinnings outstripping the cost of the outerwear itself should be illegal
Y'all have events and a community? Because it's all tumbleweeds where I live. My 'costuming community' is commenting on Bernadette's IG and being happy if I get a like 🤣
@@beckstheimpatient4135 🫂 BIG MOOD 😩😭
I'm an introvert, so joining a community (especially when literally NO ONE in my family & friends group sews like I do, so I have no one to go with) isn't high on the list. However, I am also the person who simply doesn't care. Yes, I will wear something Medieval inspired or whatever while at work just because I feel like it. My department's dress code is basically clean, presentable, & appropriate for a lab if you happen to be teaching one that day. I wore my Regency dress to a baby shower. Fewer people care if you don't care what they think about you. Plus, there's always stuff like Halloween. 🤣
Edit: corrected autocorrected word because autocorrect doesn't like "sews"
This was such a fun list! But with regard to Amer. Civil War, there's been a resurgence in this era among Black costumers trying to reclaim the fashion most of our ancestors weren't allowed (not to mention there's a lot of Little Women-core out there lol). I don't want interest in this era to die out, however you're definitely right in that it needs to be handled with care and appropriate education.
Ah, that's such a valid point! Thank you! And thanks for watching 🧡
(NGL, I have an intense love/hate relationship with LW...it's a struggle 🤣)
Would you be comfortable with me pinning your comment? 100% ok if you're not!
As a Brit the 1860s aren't as problematic but I do understand why it's so difficult for US costumers
Girlie what 💀💀
You & they can also reproduce
Afro aCaribbeanS & Afro S American styles. There were all sorts of styles, many still used today. Folk dance, tourism etc. videos show the great diversity,
Afro populations existed z&!exist
in every country & territory, except Paraguay, & ?
Mexico down to Argentina,
Peru to Brasil etc.
Spanish, Portuguese, French, English, Papiamento, etc, all
languages spoken & sung.
Greatest clothing!’aGreat dances
& songs!
Absolutely *living* for your 17th c rant, lol!
My first costumes were Hellenistic, vaguely Anglo-Saxon/ Dark Ages- early Middle Ages, & 1910's*-1920's
*tbf, Australian Federation is a bit simpler than full-on Edwardian glory, but lace & tucks were still a feature...
🤣 Thanks! It was fun to film, even if I am "not" bitter about the whole thing. LOL!
All great places to start! I don't know much about the Australian Federation style. I'll have to go check it out!
My first Historical Costuming project was a Medieval Kirtle.
I still haven't gotten the hang out of reading patterns, so I still tend to stick to simply shaped outfits or just drafting my own patterns.
So I've made a lot of shifts, a lot of tunics, a Chiton, a lot of 1700's-style petticoats, an Aesthetic Dress Reform Dress, and recently a Smokkr/Apron Dress.
I am branching out, though, with my first Dirndl-style bodice for a Hobbit costume. It's based on a pattern I draped on my dress form (the duct taped kind, a beginner staple 😉).
Wish me luck!
Nothing wrong with sticking to simple stuff if that's what you're comfortable with! Good luck with your hobbit costume!
Dude I literally put one seam and some safety pins in a piece of fabric yesterday and wore it with a belt. I have lots of sewing experience but have never felt something so instantly come together that I loved so much 😂 all my friends said I looked like a goddess 😁
YES! Awesome! I call that "Athena goes Punk Rock" 😂😂
In all honesty and respect, I disagree about the 1860s. If you mean specifically American fashion, I could more or less buy that. But it doesn't have to be American fashion. It can be European fashion and although it's pretty much the same (especially in form), it's important to look outside America. In the 1837s, a decree was passed in the Spanish colonies allowing the free trade of slaves. However, I would never say that anyone did (if only for moral reasons) the 1830s. For in every place, there have been many atrocities. Hence, I don't think is fear as you say to "stop making the era, period". Because as an Spaniard, American civil war is way to far from my culture. Hence, I could tell to all Americans not to try 1830's. You didn't even gave the opportunity to others to choose whether or not to chose an 1860's gown from other country. And you were clear with not trying the era.
I specifically said it applies to only American clothing from 1861-1865 before I said anything else about it.
Apologies, I realize after the fact my response sounded unnecessarily snippy. Not my intent!
I did actually specify in the original script that I wasn't speaking for any other country in that time period, because I didn't have the knowledge to speak about it in that context, and that I was only concerned with US. But it got cut for time. I regret not leaving it in. Obviously, other places have different contexts. But for (white folks) in the US, it's still really not a good space to be in.
1920s one hour dresses are a fantastic first stop after a chiton .
I think 1780s is likely my next actual full build. I’ve got a specific one I’m creating in lounge wear so I may as well work on a day dress at least since I have most of the under layers. Just need a suitable fabric.
Right now I have so many ideas but so little time 😂 yet I still prefer prioritizing hand sewing over machine sewing
Cool, good suggestion!!
Too many ideas and not enough time, story of my life! I feel 'ya 🤣
My first historical project, which I made last year, was a Chinese Hanfu. Hanfu is relatively easy construction wise especially since the sleeves are practically dolmam sleeves. My second historical project, which I made this year, was both a day and a evening 1920s outfit. The day outfit is in the style of Miss Fisher with pants, a hat and a lavishly stylish coat (the first coat I ever made). The evening outfit contains both an evening dress and a cape (which was acutally a very popular evening option). I always sew "costumes" for LARP. The Hanfu was for a Fantasy character but I used it as an opportunity to research and renconstruct a historical garment. The second LARP was set in 1928 and I can assure you I was the most accurately dressed person there😂😮
Oh my god it's so nice to find someone who's into the 1600s! I've fallen in love with the 1690s and want to make a few bodices (thankfully I draft my own patterns and enjoy doing so, and am not a super tight stickler for accuracy, so that won't hold me back) but it's so strange to see virtually no content about the era on here, given how gorgeous it is.
I agree! This was a gorgeous era and people don't realize it.
That's SO awesome that you draft your own bodices! I can do basic drafting, but when it comes to stays, that's way too much math for me 😆
It is strange, and frustrating, that there's so little content about it! Next year I'm gonna be doing quite a bit of it, though, now that I've made some eras I can wear to events, so that should change shortly!!
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Can't wait!
I started with a smattering of mid 1800's (pairie dresses ala Oregon trail in elementary school), vaguely medieval for Ren Faires and 17th century pirate attire. But now I'm firmly in the medieval and Tudor eras with a fantasy twist. Though I do help my wife with her Victorian and Edwardian garb.
Awesome! Except I have bad news.
You have died of dysentery.
I wanna do the 17th century so badly, but I can't find patterns and I do NOT have the skillset to grade from pattern books. But those Stuart gowns are so gorgeous!
They are! It's such a shame that there aren't many resources out there. Reconstructing History does have some patterns, but they are not good patterns at all, they scale terribly and the instructions are awful, and aren't any better than scaling 🙄
There is one 1660's pattern out there from Nehelenia patterns. TH-cam doesn't like me linking, but you can google it. I've heard good things about it, but it does ship from Germany, so the price has always thrown me off.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Nehelenia is a great tip for those of us who live in the EU though. 😃 Thanks, I will go and look at that pattern. 😊
Made a men's costume for 17th cent northern europe as an absolute beginner... took me 9 months but I'm happy with the result.
Skills I had to learn: patter making, hand sewing, pad stiching, pressing. Skills I had, but came in handy: knitting
Wow, good for you!! That's TOUGH!
So what did you end up knitting? 🤔
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Thank you! Knitted knee high socks for the costume! I was able to manage the project by loaning A LOT of books on the subject from my uni library and just giving it time.
This is a great reference video, thanks for making it. 😊 I would add Bronze Age and Iron Age to the top tier. It's simply narrow rectangular pieces of fabric stitched together by hand with a bone needle, and held together with belts and brooches. You can buy reproduction belt buckles and brooches. Maybe Viking Age would fit into the top tier too. I'm not sure, but I think Viking Age is more fitted. But still no stays or complicated things. (maybe Bronze/Iron/Viking Age are more common here in Europe. I don't know. Every now and again we dig up bodies with clothes from these eras in peat bogs here. So we have references).
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it! Those are good suggestions! I know ZERO things about any of those eras, but I definitely can see how that'd be true!
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Thanks. 🙂
I would be cautious about all of bronze age fashions, especially Minoan, they could be simple or they could be tailored
Is there anywhere you’d be willing to suggest as a starting place to learn about this?
As someone who started in early 17th c with almost no sewing experience, I would argue that early 17th c should go in 'If you like crying', instead of 'Nope!', especially if you're doing working class. You can basically get away with using a Tudor kirtle as your foundation garment, and there are a bunch of reenactment groups that have helpful websites.
Renaissance really, /really/ depends on what part of Europe you're talking about. 16th c Ireland falls squarely into NOPE! There is only one company that makes patterns for it, and said company's patterns are generally not known for being beginner-friendly. Other information sources are difficult-to-impossible to find (ask me how I know), and a proper outfit requires 15+ yd of fabric. But, 16th c. Ireland has THE MOST EPIC SLEEVES in history. Poofy sleeves that hang all the way down to your knees.
Hah! Yeah, I feel like working class of any era gets automatically bumped up a level. I know absolutely zero about 16th c Ireland, but I'll go check it out, because I am if anything an enthusiast for epic sleeves. Thanks! 😁
Costuming as a hobby or wardrobe mix up gets spendy but is a lot of fun. My take on it is probably different than most as I'm a middle aged Goth.
I did some vintage of prairie style that was popular in the early 80s. I did a bit of Korean costuming as all I had to do was raid my mother's closet. I mix a polonaise with jeans and flapper Mary Janes. Or I will do medieval cut and use it as a base for vampire. Actually almost all of my historical costuming mostly revolves around vampires and I wear this stuff as ordinary clothing.
Many will cringe when they see that a garment of mine was constructed by a pattern from one of the big four companies. I'm not going after historical accuracy but a certain vibe as a vampire of whatever era.
Roman and Grecian dresses are a lot of fun and can be worn in contemporary gatherings with most not knowing.
Exactly! I wear my chitons and stola out all the time and get nothing but compliments. And they're so comfy!
And nothing wrong with the big four, especially when you're just starting out. My 18th century stays are from the AD Simplicity Outlander stays pattern, and they're great. Nobody's first makes are proud things to show off 🤣🤐
Fellow middle-aged goth high five!
Hello fellow dark soul 🌑
@@kikidevine694 hello there. Nice to meet you.
I looked through Nehelenia's patterns, and some of them are in PDF. Maybe if enough people request a specific pattern to be turned into PDF, they will do it? It looks like they have lots of great patterns. 🙂
Good idea! That'd be nice! They do have some good patterns, especially some men's 17th century slops I've been eyeing!
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Yes. 🙂
I agree with the discussion of the mid 1800s, but something that had nagged at me is by singling it out, it does feel like costumers can potentially be ignoring that slavery was very much a thing for a long, long time. One of the projects I want to work on is partially based on a chemise a la reine, and I was on the fence about making it at first because to me, that particular garment also has a massive history with slavery- its cotton, and it was likely based on clothes commonly worn in the French Caribbean, including by white French slave owners. I'm not disagreeing with you at all regarding the 1860s, just saying the entanglement with fashion and slavery/colonialism is a very wide spanning issue (hell let's not get into the beetle wings or how England systematically destroyed the South Asian textile industry and how you can draw a direct line from that to the conditions garment workers face today in the same region).
I think that yes, there are plenty of costumers out there that like to ignore that fact. Will avoiding this specific time, place and intent increase the number of folks out there who will willingly smooth over the "unsavory" that has been rampant throughout history, not just this time period? That, I really don't know. I'd like to hope not. Is that naive? Probably 😬
I totally agree with you, though, about it being our duty as costumers to research, understand and most importantly acknowledge the context and origins of specific styles (and eras) that could be deemed problematic or are environmentally or socially harmful, etc. I think that's a great point and the Chemise gown is a perfect example, because as you said, it is fraught with some problematic history. When I made my red chemise gown earlier this year, I spent a LOT of time doing that research, listening to folks about the matter, and then making sure I acknowledged it in my video and left resources in the description for folks to go check out and further educate themselves, since I didn't feel like I was the person to really go into depth about the subject (and same with this one, honestly. Who am I to really understand?) And we definitely don't want to lose that--we want to encourage that in costumers who are coming from places of privilege. I'd argue it's our duty, so that our spaces are safer and more inclusive.
I think where the difference is intent. Dressing up in one of those American Civil War outfits and going to a CW reenactment and hanging out on the confederate side is a lot different, and says a totally different thing, than wearing a chemise gown to a Georgian-themed picnic, especially if one does the work and the acknowledgement first. Again, I can only speak as someone of privilege, so take that with a grain of salt.
Someone said earlier that with a lot of research and care, this era could be done, and I totally agree with that. For the sake of this video, though, still I feel my statement runs true: most beginners won't know how or where to even start to do that :\
@FantasticalFolliesCostuming yeah, I do think the thing that does make the 1860s exceptional is that racists particularly latch onto that era to glorify slaveowners in a way they don't with other eras. All eras of European and white American history get used by racists, but they're used in different ways; the dress of the 1860s in the US is very much used to glorify slavery in part because of how the southern belle is used, and in part because of films made about the era. Because it's seen as the point where slavery ended in the US (its sadly more complicated), it crystallizes in the public perception
So, this is something with a unique dynamic in America. You are completely correct. Even the fashions from 1650s are technically “slaveowner fashions” because that is how old the transatlantic slave trade is. However, if you’re a delusional American who believes the Civil War was about states’ rights to do anything besides own slaves and you generate a lot of useless nostalgia for the time period and maybe even display the common hatred/rebel flag on your car or in your home, you’re gonna be drawn to the Antebellum fashion period. That’s why OP is speaking to that section of history specifically. In American historical costuming culture, that’s where all the white supremacists are hiding. ESPECIALLY IN THE AMERICAN SOUTH. You might be American, idk, and you might already know this. I am just hoping to provide context. OP is a Texas resident (and so am I) so these are our red flags.
@@idrisa7909exactly. It’s like how weird white men are obsessed with WWII. Steer clear of them altogether lmfao. Yes, antisemitism and genocides of Jewish persons happened multiple times throughout history and held a lot of peaks in the medieval era. But the closet Nazis are obsessed with the 1940s specifically. You’re much less likely to find a white supremacist among medieval reenactors than you are among WWII stans.
@thaloblue I am literally a mixed race person in Georgia. I am well aware
I started 16th Century and could stay in that era forever. So easy, and the style is gorgeous. You can go very expensive complex silk and kirtle, or a simple wool kirtle (forgiving, relatively inexpensive fabric). And either way you go it is beautiful.
It's definitely a century I want to explore! I'm not sure when I'll get to it, but it's definitely on the list.
A great video for those starting out and those of us thinking about branching out. As an English Civil War re-enactor I agree wholeheartedly about the lack of 17th century patterns etc. Even the old standby of using portraiture is difficult as, let's face it, people don't really have portraits done in wartime. It's also very expensive, with about 4 yards of wool for a skirt, and heavy. I love it though, and the research can take you down some fascinating rabbit holes.
Thank you! And yet another reason why I lament the fact that I live in the US, and not in the UK. 😂 Although I'm partial to the Restoration vs the actual English Civil War. Still the same problems. Hopefully we can get more exposure and convince someone who (unlike me) knows how to make patterns to take up the cause 🤞
My first costuming piece was a Medieval gown that looked a lot like Merida's from Brave, except it was in creams and golds. It also started life as a set of curtains from a thrift shop! That was in either grade 7 or 8.
Wow, starting early! Awesome--and yay for thrifting your materials 😁
I love thrifting curtains and fancy sheets for costumes😅
I did a lot of 15tth century reenactment back in the 90's; many curtains died in a noble cause back then. I had an amazing 1450's copper orange kirtle made from velvet with a black and gold stomacher. Absolutely gorgeous but so incredibly heavy
No kidding about the unavailability of 17th patterns.... *cries in 1640s* I know one guy who basically lives in the 17th century and as far as I know he wears it to any event he goes to though so there's at least three of us in the world.
LOL! I like it 😆 The interesting thing is that the more I talk about it, the more people come out of the woodwork, and say they've wanted to do it but have been intimidated. So just wearing 17th c to random events is a really good thing. I think people want to see other folks Do The Thing. It's definitely my go to era for events that don't have a required one!
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Yeah, it makes a difference seeing others do it. In my historical group we can theoretically do anything from the late 17th century to, I think, about the mid-19th, but the main focus is 18th to regency so it's easy to get stuck in those eras because that's what "everyone" does. The guy belongs to another group but sometimes joins us/our "neighbours" too and every time I see him I'm inspired to make the jump. There's really no reason not to (besides the cost of appropriate fabric, etc)!
wearing modern elastic waist linen pants with an early medieval tunic for a more "masculine" impression is a tip i like to share with people interested in going to events but can't/don't want to take on the task of sewing pants
Oooooh! That's a great (and COMFY!) suggestion! Thanks for sharing!
My first proper period (and still my main period) is the renaissance. Simply bc I live in central europe and that 's a time that is commonly portrayed here. And the beautiful thing about the renaissance is you have exactly as much work as you make for yourself. Especially bc I am protraying a Trossfrau aka one of the women who was part of the group that followed the Landsknecht armies around. This means that even with fabric choice I can do whatever I want. There are woodcuts that have these women wearing brocade (likely stolen) but a more modest linen or wool dress also work great. You have the little strips of trim but quite frankly I'd rather sew on that than make a corset. German Renaissance is one of the areas where no support garments were used and even kirtles are a bit of a point of debate and you can definitely get away without wearing one. You just throw in a layer or two into the bodice section to stabilise things but that is it. The only part that you really should do that takes a lot of work is the damned slashes. with wool they are fine. with leather they are fine. with linen they are a veritable nightmare and I have chosen to just ignore the subject.
But yeah I love the German renaissance for clothes. The garments are so comfortable and easy to make. And while I don't know of many patterns out there (bc I hate myself and prefer drafting things myself) there are great free recources out there that teach you how to draft the bodice yourself (and the skirt is a rectangle which is doable).
And that being said if you want to spend time and money the sky is the limit. There are beautiful reproduction brocades out there (and they are "only" 50-150€ a meter unless you buy from that guy who custom makes them in Germany in which case you're looking at more like 300€). You can make a smocked chemise which is not too expensive but by god you do have to hate yourself to do this (I have made one). You can sew on pearls you can be incredibly free with embelishments. Additionally you can opt for tudor gowns which apparently have better resources but again even the german ones are fairly well-researched. Or you can make a Cranach dress which only really exists in paintings so nobody has a clue what is going on. Or, like I said, you can make a very simple dress with just one border at the bottom of the skirt and one around the neckline and that also looks great! And even with my dress (which is that latter one) it is very comfortable and very gorgeous. At a price of I believe 5m of linen if we include sleeves and the additional fabric I bought for the borders as well as the fabric for the hat plus however much fabric you want to use for your chemise (2 are enough. you can also use 4. Your choice. One of these options takes significantly more work)
Edit: but yeah my first outfit (barring belt and such) cost me maybe 120-150€ in fabric including the chemise and all of it being linen.
Awesome, thank you so much for sharing all that! I'm literally in the process of cutting out a petticoat for my upcoming Renaissance project, and I find all this extremely helpful! 🧡
Ever since I was a teen I've been obsessed by the masculine tailoring and shelf butt of the later bustle period. I mostly blame the late and great Eiko Ishioka and her ten-years-out-of-date designs for Bram Stoker's Dracula. So anachronistic, yet so glorious. Unfortunately I will never have the skills or the money to own such a garment. *cries over her Harper's Bazar fashion sourcebook*
Those are exactly the things that draw me to that era, too, over the first bustle era. I'm gonna be tackling one of those for an event this December and I'm SUPER excited to get started 😁
BTW, since I am in total agreement with you about Dracula, if you haven't seen already, Casey from Casey Renee Cosplay is recreating Mina's red gown for Halloween. You should check out her channel/Instagram if you haven't yet!
Ancient Greek/Rome, like curtains but for your body 😂
Yup 😂 There's definitely an art to the belting process to get them to be flattering.
I'm going straight into 17th century as my first ever full outfit and I'm mostly hand sewing since I'm away from home at the moment, finished a hip pad and working my way through undergarments first before i reach the final boss: The structured Bodice. I will cry, I will bleed, but at the end of it I'm not expecting it to be historically accurate i just want something that looks 17th century since its my favourite century.
That is BRAVE! 🤣 Good luck--and remember, don't expect the bodice to turn out perfect the first time. It's a skill, and it's ok for it to turn out imperfect! 🧡
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Thankyou so much!!
My first project was a chaperon from the middle ages. There is a character in this video game called Kingdom Come Deliverence and he wears a chaperon. I liked him so I wanted to have a chaperon for myself.
Hah!! That's awesome 😆
Great and informative video! I would like to do the 1790's, 1830's and the late Stuart period of the 17th century (Charles ll to William & Mary). Though I'm not a fan of Jane Austen, I certainly would do the Regency era as it looks easier and there are some great patterns available for the period. I think more people would be trying the 17th century if there only some decent patterns out there. The two from Nehelenia do look good for the early years of the Restoration. The gowns from the 1670's are my favorites too! 🥰 🧡
All good eras! I agree about the 17th century. I'm hoping if I do more from the era, more will want to do the era, and it'll snowball 🤷♀️ Regency IS easy and just good to have. It doesn't take a lot of money or resources, either.
Yes! The videos you do on the 17th century will help greatly. Now if we just had a few good patterns, I think it could take off. 🧡@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming
I'm a professional costume designer and I have a horde of 17th century patterns. They are out there and granted, half of my horde is out of print, but even the historical reconstruction pattern companies have some great options. It's a great period and I had a 30 person show to costume a few years ago...I didn't have time to draft (other than a cartwheel), so I used pre-made and altered as needed because I know the period very well. I guess thats the key. Love the video!!
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it! It's interesting you say that, because I've been scouring the internet for three years now and haven't found a single commercially available pattern for the late 17th century outside of the 1660's gown on Nehelenia Patterns and Reconstructing History, whose patterns are abominable. If you know of other pattern companies, please share! I grow tired of having to scale up from POF.
I mean, it's 2020. The 1920's were 100 years ago now. Also, many of these rules only apply to the upper crust of the upper class. If you do middle to lower class, the cost of the "yikes" categories drops significantly. Take 1870's for example. A middle-class day gown can be made of lightweight cotton, only about 7-8 yards if you're careful. (I did mine with only 6 yards, and had enough for an evening bodice in addition to a day bodice.) The bustle is small enough and the fabric lightweight enough that you can get away with just a bustle pad. Same with Civil War... cost and difficulty drops significantly the lower class you go. (Side note, Mrs. Lincoln's dress maker was a black woman who bought her way out of slavery by making those dresses that were "oppressive." It really does just depend on how you present it.)
On a lighter note, one extremely easy category that I would love to see more of is ancient Egypt. Most ancient Egyptian clothing were "wrap, tuck, and tie" type garments, extremely easy to make. All you need to sew is a top and bottom seam where the fabric is cut, maybe a neck hole if you make a tunic.
The reason you don't see Ancient Egyptian a lot is because for most of us, doing it would be culturally appropriative, which is very uncool.
18:02 hold up, why not? Ok I understand if you were to talk specifically about slavery, but if you do touch onto a subject different from it, I see it as perfectly fine
Please see my replies to other comments in this video.
I’m almost a historical costumer. I don’t have a lot of time on my hands to make things, but when I do it’s extra. I drafted the pattern for Guinevere’s blue gown from King Arthur 2004 and drafted a one-hour dress pattern to make and wear to a friend’s 1920s themed party, and I’ve made one regency dress that’s both too big AND too small all at once… funny how that happens! My next project is some 1700s stays, about 1740-ish? And a real problem I have is that I get intimidated by some of what I see in the community. The feeling of seeing “I hand sewed everything down to the last stitch and I never even LOOKED at a sewing machine and I hand finished all the seams and I drafted my own pattern based off of one image and i embroidered 7 yards by hand and I only use period-appropriate fabrics” and getting overwhelmed. Thanks for making a video that describes the pros and cons for many eras while also taking cost and time into account.
Oh, yeah, something too big and too small all at once, I run into that a LOT 🤣 I feel ya!
It's hard not to be intimidated by those people, I struggle against it, too. Best advice I can offer is to not try and compare yourself to anyone else. We all have our own journey and abilities, and you can only do what your own constraints allow. Some people will judge you for not having everything hand stitched and HA, but those folks are gatekeepers and 100% not worth your time. For every one of those, there are two of us out there who don't care if you're in a machine-sewed, synthetic gown. The important thing is that you do what makes you happy!! We all have to start somewhere, and there are plenty of experienced historical costumers that still machine stitch and use poly, myself included.
Good luck on your stays! It's not easy, but stick with it. Do mockups. If it's your first pair, don't spend a lot on your fashion fabrics, and know that you'll probably have some issues with the final make. That's ok! It's expected, and part of the learning process 🧡
Regency is sneaky. Something similar happened to me and it's so annoying that I never went back to fix it, despite having the materials to do it.
Remember that some people who make their costumes using "authentic methods" are doing it because they personally enjoy the anthropological, or living history aspect of it, and all the things they can learn through the process. They do it because it fascinates them.
If they geek out about how they had made a thing, and the things they learned, they may honestly be sharing their fascination - rather than having any judgement about the choices you made.
Even pointing out an anachronism, might actually be more of an infodump about something nifty.
I say this because Autistic and ADHD people can often be misunderstood when sharing their fascination with a hobby, even among other people who are into it.
Then there are the gate keeping people who do it that way because they want some kind of "superiority points". Eff that. They say things like "well, I'm not sure people who don't invest the time and money in their garments really "belong" here.
Which is quite different than seeing something technically inaccurate about your garment, and saying "I read this thing that explained the reason for..."
Either way... work to whatever level of adequacy or precision suits your wants and needs for that project, and don't let what others are doing take away from your curiosity and fulfilment.
I'm an experienced sewer (62 years!)& my first costume was an 1860s skirt & Garibaldi blouse. Pleating the skirt waist just about drove me crazy until I learned that each pleat doesn't have to be the exact same size! Next I moved on to Regency & it went very smoothly. I do always have to do some adjusting, but that's what mock-ups are for. I have all my underpinnings & 1780s gown ready for #angelicathon & will be wearing it to the DFWCG Georgian Picnic. See you there!
AWESOME! Can't wait to see it in person! 🤩👏
Thank you so much for making this video! The other day I was just thinking about which era would be the easiest to start with and this video was very helpful!
You're very welcome! I'm so glad you found it helpful :) Thanks for watching!
I really appreciate your comments on the American Civil War era. I've come to really love the silhouette and flow of those dresses but their beauty absolutely can't be separated from their historical baggage. I can't imagine putting one on and walking around without being constantly aware of what white femininity meant in that era and what atrocities that image was used to justify. Honestly even the earlier usage of cotton feels a little fraught to me. Anyway thanks for all your fantastic insights, I can't wait to make my first chiton this week!
I agree with your sentiments! Thank you for watching--and good luck with your chiton!!
One other thing, as an African American I believe in owning and possessing the antebellum era. Taking it back from the weird reenactment people. A sort of alternate timeline where girls as dark as I am were wearing the fancy shit. Especially if the gowns have the espionage revisions they were known to have for women who were spies and couriers during the war. But I think that is my prerogative as a member of the stolen race. I would in fact side eye antebellum costumers who had tone deaf ideals about the time period. It’s not banned or race restricted IMO, it just needs to be approached with respect in the same way that I wouldn’t be too cavalier in 1940’s garb. Any era with a genocide or similar oppressive constant needs sensitivity.
YES!! To all of this! 😊 (Also, I had no idea there were modifications in those gowns for espionage. I hope you get a chance to do that, because it would be SO. FREAKING. AWESOME.)
disclaimer: i mainly know more about men's fashion victorian onward, and only occasionally consume women's fashion history. i'm curious as to why the civil war era is different compared to all the others. what makes it okay to dress as a victorian aristocratic who's okay with colonialism or a medieval noble who also owns slaves and land with serfs? i totally understand if it's a specific thing about those gowns that makes them a symbol of oppression, i just don't know anything about that place/period from the fashion side of things
It's about the context, and the intent of the wearers in those costumes at certain themed events and historical recreations that happen here in the States, especially in the South. There's a lot of longing for the "good ole days" when, basically, being racist was socially acceptable. Whereas like, someone dressing up as a Victorian aristocrat's not necessarily doing it with that same intent. It's very nuanced and VERY specific to the American Civil War. You can scroll through the comments, there were a few international folks I replied to with some more detail/reference if you'd like further explanation.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming i see, thanks
If you love the Edwardian silhouette but don't have the time and money for fiddly lace and diaphanous fabrics, look towards working class or middle-class office-wear from that period. Those are a bit closer to "Previous Sewing Experience" than "It's Gonna Cost 'Ya", as they maintained some of the 1890s' simplicity. There are plenty of period resources available online for dressing on a budget (ie. Vogue and The Ladies' Home Journal) containing advice which serves just as well for costumers today! And yes, those tips included piecing the corners of your skirts.
Great tips, thanks for sharing!
I love my Edwardian walking skirt! Big fabric panels, but it comes together really easy and the SWOOSH of the pleated fullness in the back is fantastic.
Thanks!
@@dianagreene4257heck yeah. Mine has a pocket large enough to hold a chihuahua! It’s in an odd place because of the seaming, so it does appear I’ve pulled whatever’s in it out of my arse, but they’re brilliant pieces to have on hand!
Lol im an idiot and started with an 1850s puffed sleeve crinoline dress which i sewed entirely by hand because i had no machine. Friends, do not do this. Please just dont... honestly its a miracle it turned out ok though i was working on it for 2 months... 😅
Oh my god 🤣😵💫 That is absolutely insane, GOOD FOR YOU for tackling that first! 👏👏
I’m a bit late with my comment but you can reduce the cost of crinolines and bustles a lot if you use spring steel pipe cleaners to bone these. It works perfectly, doesn’t get out of shape and looks authentic. The only problem is that you need tools to cut it.
Never too late to comment, I appreciate you! That's a great tip, I had no idea those were a thing. Thanks!
I whipped something like five ancient Greek tunics out of old bedsheets in an anfternoon with the crappiest sewing machine on Earth for a school play when I was 15 and had only the most basic understanind knowledge of sewing and a friend who could... cut fabric straight as an assistant. We had lots of fun and the costumes were nice enough from a distance despite the wonky hems. I recently recycled the tunic I had left into a Regency chemise, after years of using it as a nightgown. I love these versatile garments so much...
I am now planning (procrastinating) to make a medieval gown and a Regency one, but life got in the way and I don't have events to go to so my priority goes to dailywear sewing. I do ear my 1890's split skirt a lot though, and am asving money to buy wool for a winter version. (Most of my sewing limitations are due to budget rather than skill, it's kind of frustrating)
I feel that! I feel like budget is always a big, hindering factor. But great that you're finding ways to scoot around that!
Heh, I'm glad Medieval got to be in "absolutely". That's my thing. And though I've been sewing since I was about thirteen, I'm honestly not great at it, just persistent. I'm also really interested in working class anything, male or female, for historybounding purposes. So far, a kirtle based on Morgan Donner's self-drafting video has been my most successful supportive garment, though I'm trying to bodge together some stays.. I've got a Victorian Walking Skirt in the makings and I think since my pinafore kirtle was so successful I'm going to do a full length one out of the other half of the lovely purple linen I got for my birthday. I'm all about making do with what I've got, and the rectangles-and-gores thing really appeals to me for rather a lot of things so far. What I want and have been meaning to make since the start of the pandemic is an outfit I can wear during medieval festivals when I'm not in my battle armour. And I've got an event tomorrow. Did I do the thing? NOPE. Made a bunch of other wearable stuff though...
Yeah, medieval's a great place to be! And making do is a good thing. I fully believe i utilizing what you already have...especially of you're someone who acquires a lot of stash. Ahem. Not that I know anything about that...😳
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Oh, no, none of us have any idea what you're talking about... Who has a stash that's exceeded two steamer trunks and is now including multiple plastic totes and a few giant ziploc bags for wool... certainly not me...
My first project is a full 18th century english gown... I loooove crying 😂
Ahahahaha! 🤣🤣 That's a hard thing, congrats for getting through it!
I started in Viking age reenactment/living history
Fun! Ngl, that's one era I know nothing about outside of, like, The Welsh Viking and what Opus Elenae has done 😂😳
Because I am a fan of the Hocus Pocus films my fave era is 1650 to 1690. Unsurprisingly this era is in the "NOPE" category. 🤣 I have noticed when looking for sewing patterns for this era that there is very little available. 😞 That partially explains why the clothing in those films are more loose interpretations. There was also no internet in 1992, so research would have been difficult. (That doesn't explain the loose interpretations for the 2022 film though). 🤔
Hah! I do love Hocus Pocus so much. I will say, as far as I know, they were never going for any kind of historical accuracy. More of a ~vibe~, especially for the witches, one that I actually love. I never expect any kind of attention to accuracy in Disney films 🤣
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Yes you're right. And even if they had wanted to, it would probably have been very hard for a time-constrained film costumer to have done all that research before the internet age. 🙂
17c. =pirate garb... acceptable at most renfaires
That is a SOLID point! Thanks for bringing that up! Some 17th century, though, hah! I can't imagine walking around with my giant trained mantua trailing in the dirt...🤣
I was thinking more the outlander type stuff. Still 17 c. But actually pretty easy to wear
I'm starting with the 1890s, mainly because of Bernadette, but I do have a _lot_ of previous sewing experience. I'm also extremely lucky to have been able to draft an 1890s corset and have it fit me first try, so we'll see how that goes.
Good luck! It's definitely an ok place to start if you've got a lot of experience already.
I gotta get better at finding costuming events.
It may take some time, especially if you are not in a metro area. Check Facebook groups, Meetup, google. Despite living in a major city, I do have to drive 2-3 hours, which can be a pain...but there are folks out there! Good luck!
started out in english medieval costume of around the 11th century inspired by the bayeux tapestry. super easy and almost every pattern piece is basic rectangles and triangles and you end up with some very comfortable colourful clothes that you can wear around the house. doing chores and mowing the lawn is 10x more fun when wearing a tunic, braies, and linen cap
HAH!!! I love that! Comfortable, AND confuses the neighbors 😂😂
Ugh, I feel you SO HARD on the 17th century section. There are sooo few resources out there and, disappointingly, little interest in the historical costuming community for recreating that period. (Which, like, why?!? You'd think at the very least there'd be more interest in the 1620s-ish time period because of the pop culture icon that is The Three Musketeers... which was definitely NOT the reason why I got into the 17th century to begin with, haha...) So yeah, I'm definitely NOT bitter. Not bitter in the LEAST😭😒
YEAH! You'd think! 😫 It's tragic, and I feel your bitterness 💯. I think a lot of the disinterest lies in the lack of resources. Folks are intimidated, at least from the conversations I've had, with beginners and experts alike.
Gear up, though! For sure gonna be some 1660's happening here, at least, in the next couple of months!
Pioneers and Victorians and pirates and cowboys are all invaders and colonizers. If you're going to do any white-centric historical larping in the Americas, you shouldn't forget that none of it is actually inoffensive.
That said, I like pretty clothes and silly costumes.
I completely agree. I think it's important for all costumers to stop and acknowledge the damage that has been done to marginalized people and the roles that folks like the Victorians played in that. It hearkens back to Dandy Wellington's "Vintage Style, Not Vintage Values," which I wholeheartedly support.
I am definitely a run before you can walk kind of person so my first was an Elizabethan noble woman for the Ren Fair in So Cal. It was made with modern upholstery fabric, did not have the correct under garments and looked God awful. Not to mention it was HOT! How I did not get heat stroke I'll never know.
HAH!!! Whoooo! Good for you! Chaos results or not, that's definitely accomplishment. Especially wearing it in that heat 🥵
Give me a light leather (or leather look) kirtle bodice and a big feather, I'm going Golden Age of Piracy, matey. Poofy sleeve pirate shirt from rectangles. Pants from rectangles that are adjustable. So much fun,
Yes!! I love the Golden Age of Piracy. Such a fun era!!
So thrilled that the Medieval Era is accessible! I have basically no sewing experience and I just want to look unconventional as I work remotely! I also have a tiny crush on the variety of chitons from Ancient Greece. If I was a bridgerton fan I might be frustrated, but for once my expectations seem to suit reality. Kirtles, here I come!
That's such a great motivation, I love it! 😁 And yes! Kirtles (and chitons!) are totally awesome places to start (and wear while sitting at a desk!) Good luck in your endeavors! 🍀
my first big project was 1860ś work wear but i didnt actually make the under garments im still too intimidated to make a corset and i dont have the budjet to get one made.
Yeah, I feel like a lot of folks feel that way. It doesn't help that corsets in particular are costly to even make, and it's a skill that requires some practice to succeed.
Have you ever considered trying a pair of stays, first, as practice? There are a lot of cheap (or free) stays patterns out there, and they can be made using quilting cotton and zip ties, which are cheap, and they're great to have for historybounding/hobbitbounding/Ren faires, even if you're not interested in 18th century as an era.
If an event requires Regency-era clothing, I'm not going. I HATE it.
LOL!!! That's valid 😆 but you'll definitely miss out 🤷♀️
If you are autistic and want to get into historical costuming, the only correct answer for the "first era to do" is...the one that you are interested in. It might take longer. It might cost a lot of money. But the motivation will just not be there for other ones.
Which is why I started with 1860s. :-)
Excellent! Medieval-inspired history bounding is the only one I'm actually interested in. And my toe dip is refashioning a 1990s, cotton, button front maxi dress into an overdress.
The back, hem to just above the knee looks like a puppy got very bored. So, it's not like I'm even taking a "wearable" garment out of the world, so it was easy to tell myself "enh. If you end up with anything, it's literally been saved from garbage. So if ends up being crap. You also haven'r wasted anything. You just learned things.
Watching costube is the hobby.
That's a really great mindset, I love it! All for repurposing unusable things into something new and useable. Good luck! 🍀
i am quite a beginner costumer and I mostly do 1890s and edwardian but I buy basic simple antique corsets covers and petticoats because they are so annoying to make tbh and cheap to buy over there haha.
I also do vintage (30s-40s and 70s) but i don't do it in a historical accurate goal, just for everyday wear.
Purchasing your undergarments definitely makes things easier! You're fortunate to be able to find things that fit you!
You said that 1900-1910 would be considered the historical Edwardian period while 1920+ fashion would be considered vintage, not historical. Would the period from 1910-1920 be considered Vintage or Historical?
I'd consider it historical. As far as I know (and what I know is VERY limited, which is why I didn't mention this era in the video,) you still need full structural undergarments for this period. I know Scroop makes a bunch of stuff from this era, including a new corset pattern, so if you're interested in doing it, might be a good place to start.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming thanks for answering
I want to start with regency because I like empire waists
Nice! I like them, too.
As a person who started with an 1880s walking suit, starting off with a sorta big project taught me A LOT of things about Victorian fashion, not saying to start off with a big project, but doing that project kinda had me set further on, but did not teach me about robe ele Franceis
It is a bit sad that you skim over masculine garments, since there are some post-1500s styles that do work for beginners.
Especially undress like banyans, and ironically some of the looser softer mid-17th century jackets and petticoat breeches (even a justacorps is much easier than a regency tailcoat, and within regency, directorie styles have a bit more give if you aren't afraid of looking a bit Jacobin.)
Unfortunately masculine people get a bit disheartened with the hobby when the first recommendations are either "Sew a bunch of petticoats" or "Spend 2 years sewing rectangle tunics, maybe a 20 yard houplelande if you can find a non-existent pattern". And there really are ways of overcoming the leap from medieval to the full post-regency tailoring era in a gradual manner.
I wish I COULD have spoken more about masculine clothing. The problem is I have no experience with it apart from a pair of absolutely cursed 18th century breeches (😳), so I didn't feel like it was my place to talk about it. I totally agree with you that masculine folks do get the short end of the stick as far as historical clothing is concerned, especially on the stuff that isn't difficult!
I am going to be venturing into some late 17th century masculine clothing next year! I'm definitely interested in it, it's just a more difficult skill I'm still learning. Especially on my body, which is basically Dolly Parton if she were a hobbit. 🤣
The masculine historical YT sewer that comes to mind is Dolthalion. There are probably more. But I never sew male clothing so I don't know of them. 🤔 You just have to search, I guess. Sorry I can't help.
My very very first piece was a set of combinations (one piece chemise and drawers) which I loved so much I made half a dozen more in soft summer fabrics with a closed crotch and wore them as rompers for _years!_ 😂
HAH!!! That's brilliant 🤣
To be honest, I think you're overdoing it a bit with the recommendation to avoid the Civil War. I think your advice is reasonable if you're specifically aiming it at people who live in the South, or whose local reenactment community is one of those weirdly pro-Confederate ones, but the context of those garments can vary wildly depending on where you are, the specifics of the event you're attending, and the quirks of individual reenacting groups. The most problematic aspects of that era are noticeably less present up here in the North, where people tend to have a much more pro-Union bent (although the Confederate sympathizers ARE present and you gotta watch out for them). It's still definitely an era you need to be careful with and I wouldn't recommend anyone jump into it without doing some serious research and learning what events and groups to avoid, but I don't think telling people to flat-out not do it is the answer.
I did specify the South. Also, if you're white and doing that era, it's still a red flag for a lot of people no matter where in the States you're from, because they don't necessarily know that right off the bat. Yes, it can be done, if a lot of care and attention go into it, but beginners don't know that and won't have the skills to do so--quite apart from the cost and difficulty, which still put it in the Nope category.
Appreciate the passionate point of view on Civil War, as a beginner project i understand your stance, but suffering is attached to other eras as well. Many suffered in history not just in that time period. Explore it if you want but be aware of the optics would have been enough to say here. We all have lived through the last few years of events.
love love love historical costuming but honestly terrified of making a corset, so i've been learning how to sew through pattern-drafting and vintage dresses (mainly 1940-1950) I don't have access to a sewing machine this year, but hopefully by next summer I'll have the confidence to tackle some underpinnings! (as a victorian lit scholar im OBSESSED with the thought of making my own 1890s ensemble)
Making a corset is hard, but it's not impossible. It's definitely a great practice to go into your first one knowing that it's not going to be a success, 'cause it's the first one!
Use cheaper fabrics and supplies (but still invest in decent zip ties, plus steel bones for around your grommets, you can always reuse them later if you need to), and allow yourself to make mistakes--because 100% that's the best way to learn the process! You could also make a cheap pair of stays, first, something that you don't care about ~as much~ so you can get that fitting experience without feeling like there's a bunch of stuff at stake (and stays are so much easier than corsets.) Definitely NOT a good project without a sewing machine, though, so my fingers are crossed that you find your confidence when you end up having access to one, because you absolutely deserve that 1890's ensemble 🧡
I’m definitely only buying corsets. Absolutely never making one.
Please peer pressure the men in this specific area of TH-cam to do a male version-we need more people like you fashion gentlewomen and gentlemen
I wish they would! Sadly I haven't met any personally to do the peer-pressuring, but who knows, that may change in the future!
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming you're awesome
Is it possible to reframe "American Civil War" era clothing as "The King & I" or "Australian Gold Rush" which are both roughly the same years?
13:55 oh god who took that picture haha 😅, that is scary
🤣🤣 It's not really her, it's an action still of Missy from Doctor Who. It's kind of a running joke 🤐 they have very similar clothing vibes.
Meanwhile I'm telling myself that I can put together a Halloween costume of a Victorian-era nurse is completely possible when I have maybe fifteen hours to put it together and not a lot of money. 😂
LOL! I've so been there! Do you just need the outfit, or all the underpinnings? 😬
Here's a tip. Joann's sells wide quilting cotton, like, 109" wide or something like that. If you use a coupon, or if it's on sale, it's usually around $6 a yard, cuts your yardage requirement in half and is decently structured. Won't help with the pattern cost, or any of the underpinnings, but it's really economical as far as fabric goes, if you don't wanna use thrifted old sheets
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming everything. 😵💫 But since this is not going to be judged on accuracy, I will be able to cheat a little! Or a lot, since I'll be working from the outside in - in a pinch I can pin and fluff some of my ren faire garb to use as a petticoat and corset cover. Corsetry...eh, it might have to be a more modern over bust but we shall see. (I'm also the proud owner of a LOT of fabric, so not a lot of expenditure there.)
Anytime you want to go wear your 1830's or 1740's let me know! There are a dearth of costumers around me, and oh-so-many places we could wear them! Plus Louisiana isn't that far from Texas -- relatively speaking
LOL well, it's not a day drive, but I'll keep that in mind! Thanks!
I think the thing with Romantic is, it looks HORRIBLE in fashion prints, but on a human it's so much fun!
Technically, my first "historical" costume was a Regency-style ballgown made of duipioni silk. It was the second thing I had ever made. Yes, there were tears. I did make a shift and bodiced petticoat first. I still have it, and it's still needs a proper closure in the back, but I'm thinking of selling it with the popularity of Bridgerton. It's actually not badly made considering I had NO IDEA what I was doing.
But proper wardrobe? 1770s working class woman kit for AWI reenacting and Living History. I spent at least a year researching what I should buy and make, found a group, and then spent the winter of 2007-8 working on a basic kit. I made a lot of mistakes (no, you DO NOT want your petticoats ankle length if you are going to be in mud all weekend), regardless of my research, but it was servicible. With the digitization of museum collections and release of the "Threads of Feeling" exhibit and book, it was a mind blowing and game changing as far as what we thought working people owned and wore and were capable of (embroidery! reading and writing! silk ribbons! calico!) I at first did this period because I love the high fashion of it, but I ended up falling in love with and having a lot of fun with being a working class slob, and it has gotten me interested in other eras of ordinary people (ie, the mid-victorian working class dress you mentioned, and really the working class of any era after). I unfortunately did not have a set of stays, which as a small busted person, I was able to get away with for years, but after several traumatic attempts to make a pair, I took my surplus money in 2021 and had someone make me a pair for about $400. Well worth not crying and screaming for hours and months. To be fair, there was a 6 year period where I did no events, so it's not as egregious as it sounds.
I am doing in fits and starts a transisitional period of 1917-1923. It's weird an funky but actually kind of fun to wear.
If I could absolutely spend money and time on an era, it would be very early 1890s. I actually figured out how much time and money I would have to put into it, and it proved to be a bit cost prohibitive in both, mostly because of boots and corset. Though your ranking has me second guessing.
I am one of the crazy ones. I am making my own lace for an Edwardian blouse. I mean what is a girl to do when she hates nearly all commercial lace. My answer learn how to make it for myself! LOL
LOL!!!!! That's a level of masochism even I would not subject myself to 😂 Congratulations, and good luck!
I started with Italian Ren (SCA events) many years ago and then after almost a decade of not sewing historical I got back into it with the 1890s and making my first corset. I have plans to branch out into Edwardian and German Ren in the next year, and hope to make some Regency in the near future. Now I just need to find more time to sew.
Awesome!! Finding time is definitely the challenge, always 😆
This is such a great video and you are spot on! I started my costuming journey about 3-4 years ago, BUT the first thing I made was *drumroll* ... Roman. Then I moved to Medieval. I made a Regency dress. More Medieval. Then Working class late Victorian/early Edwardian. I made Redthreaded's Short Stays, I drafted and made my own generic Victorian corset. I made a simplified pair of 18th century stays, to go with a men's shirt and a basic skirt.
Everything you said beginners should go into, I did as I began my journey. That said, I am STAYING in these points because my wardrobe is meant to be wearable - and kirtles are fantastic, as are walking skirts.
Hah! That's so validating 🤣 Glad my journey was similar to others! I love that you focus on stuff that's wearable. I have a similar rule, where every costume needs to either contain an element I can wear IRL, or serve for a multitude of uses. (Or, win enough competitions to pay for the cost of the supplies. Less sustainable.)
I started with medieval.
That was my second project after my chiton, it's such a great place to begin.
😂😂😂 I atarted out woth Regency (well, technically started out with Vintage as the Rockabilly movement of the early 2010's ate (and continues to eat) my entire personality), then did an early Elizabethan Renaissance gown because my husband wanted to dive into various eras of men's fashion and Medival menswear was very uninspiring to him. (Please note, this is the same guy who put together an entire Regency men's ensemble, including the top hat for his FIRST SEWING PROJECT, and then promptly totally ate and left no crumbs🔥❤️). I love this video.
2010s Rockabilly is LOVE 😍 And honestly, dissing Medieval menswear for Regency is totally logical. I kind of think it's the most attractive male fashion ever 🤐 But WOW!!! Those are skills, I'm so impressed by him!! 👏👏
My first historical costume (tm) was a viking set; an underdress and an apron-dress (which I did according to my own ideas, because there’s little to no sourcing.) So. So easy. No underpinnings necessary, and it’s yardage-effective as construction is all rectangles and triangles. And linen is always comfy. :D
I find linen a bit scratchy-what do you wash it with? I’d love to wear it more because it’s so breezy in the summer but it makes my chest and shoulders itch so!!
@@maddiedoesntkno I don't find it scratchy at all, though it usually gets softer and softer with use and washing. But the quality of linen can vary a great deal. The thinner versions tend to be nice and smooth in my experience, though, and that's usually what I wear directly on my skin. :)
Nice! I do love me some linen 😁
I am sticking mainly to the period of 1760-1820 in costuming, because it is my favorite period. I also have made a 1690s mantua that was so fun! I wanted to do late Victorian as well, but decided not to since I found out that the Victorian society in my country not seems to be nice people. The 18th century folks here are amazing though! 😍
Awesome that you've done a mantua! Interesting about the Victorians (but not surprising.) Where do you live, may I ask?
I started with 15th Century italian and quickly switched to scandinavian penisula square construction. Also, I already had previous sewing patterns but this time I was making my own patterns due to size requirements.
Cool! Not familiar with that particular style, I'll have to check it out!
I don't really have the time or the economy for sewing my own clothes (especially since I don't currently have a sewing machine), but I'm going to imagine this as my fantasy to-do list. Though frankly, if I ever were to get to that point, I'd probably be more interested in masculine costuming for several if not most periods. Not that crew cut hair would be historically accurate for men either during most of history, but I'm way to butch to be comfortable with cleavage fashion.
Nothin' wrong with that! I AM planning to do some 17th century masc costuming later this year, although it's going to be the frippiest and most ridiculous of all the fashions...so I'm not sure how much it counts 😂
Start was Anglo Saxon- layered t-tunics are So Easy
And how dare you denigrate my beloved early 17th styles! 1610 is my happy place! The jackets and loose gowns and hanging sleeves and short waists and ruffs and huiks and lobster bodices...
😆 I mean, you're legit allowed to disagree with me on that!
I guess I must be dumb or crazy or a little bit of both, because I jumped right in the deep end with a historically accurate Victorian corset!
Oh, wow 🤣 that's definitely a choice! Not an easy thing to do, but good for you!
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Well I do have some sewing skills already, and I've been toying with/semi-researching the idea for a while, but the real motivation to actually do it was when I found this awesome emerald green stretch taffeta for pretty cheap that I just had to make a dress out of. I didn't even know what kind of dress, but then I found this other fabric on the bargain table that went with it beautifully, and it was enough for a skirt which made me start getting ideas....
What I finally came up with was a beautiful mess, or more accurately a proverbial Frankenstein's Monster, that takes inspiration from both the Victorian era and the Robe a la Francaís, but with my own modern tweaks, which are partly to make me a little less work because I'm lazy, and partly to keep the project within my skills.
And I totally plan to finish this, but I expect it will take a good long while, because I keep procrastinating, and also getting distracted with working on other stuff. I blame the ADHD.
Interesting, upbeat, geared toward newbies? Subscribed!
Awesome! Thank you so much, and welcome!! 🧡😊
For US Civil War, there is need to represent anti slavery pro abolition African Americans & Euro Americans.
If NO to Scarlett OHara (800 years of English colonialism!!)
then YES to Sojourner Truth,
Harriet Tubman,Elizabeth Staton
Sarah & Angelina Grimke, etc.
Do not throw out the baby +
bath water!!
As I stated in the video, as well as in many of the comments, there is absolutely a necessity to respresent the aforementioned people as well as that era. But that is a space for BIPOC creators, as well as historians and educators who have spent the time researching and understanding the era and its problems in a way that they're able to respresent it in a considerate and inclusive way. NOT by beginners to historical costuming, who may have the best intentions, but definitely do not have the knowledge or the skills yet. Which is the whole point of this video.
I'm kinda sad you didn't talk about my favorite: 1889-1890, the bustle shape was perfect, but the leg o muttons hadn't yet gotten completely out of control lol (I'm a big femme and prefer not to put emphasis on my already broad shoulders)
Okay, I suppose technically it's sort of covered, but my taste is so damned specific xD
🤣 That is VERY specific!!
Thank you for making this VERY fun VERY useful video! I wanted to know where I can go after Ancient Greece and I'm going to take your advice!
I personally started with Ancient Egypt. Like the Greeks they mostly worked with rectangles, but because we have extant garments from Ancient Egypt their construction and techniques are extremely well-documented, to the point that we know the exact stitches to use for seams and hems.
Glad you found this helpful!! Thanks for watching!
Video Idea : Can you do a tier list for Disney Princesses on Historical Accuracy? While some like Elsa, Jasmine can be Historically mess, but there are some who were actually really accurate and fabulous, like Cinderella, Mulan, and Tiana!
I'll keep that in mind!
I'm a beginner and I'm working in the late Victorian period. I find skirts to be the easiest to make and the most difficult thing to make for me was an Edwardian style blouse. It's coming together, but it took me a few months to understand the pattern and how to construct the thing. I've also never sewn on buttons before nor have I sewn buttonholes. It's been almost a year since I started sewing and I have one whole outfit to show for it. I do plan on sewing an entire wardrobe but I'm going to take my time due to the cost of the fabric that I want and simply because of the fact that I also have a full time job. Sewing is a hobby to me to learn how to make my own clothes and learn about historical fashion.
Awesome!
As a black American woman who also likes fashion history, I don't think there's anything wrong with civil war fashion. If you don't want to recreate civil war looks because of what was happening at the time, then we basically wouldn't be able to recreate any looks from any time period. Slavery and injustice has a long history. Theres a saying for this. Vintage fashion not vintage values.
Absolutely! One of these days I'm going to get me one of Dandy's pins to wear 🧡 Thanks for sharing your opinions! Very much appreciated!
This is so cool. I'm not ready to start a historical project, but I'm very interested in the practical aspects - the underpinnings, the materials - of what would go into a dream dress haha. I love you for talking this through in such detail, and I'll probably listen to this video again in future.
Thank you! That is an exceptional compliment, I'm so glad this is useful!
It's good you're thinking about your underpinnings! Definitely where you want to start, especially with a dream project! 😁
You know what's a great beginner project? A linen shift. Grab some white/unbleached linen, find Morgan Donner's tutorial from a few years ago, and improvise your way to a great underlayer. But what if it ends up looking weird? Who cares! You've learned enough to make a lovely dress to cover the imperfections.
Remember, a lot of the clothing we still have in museums is from wealthy people. Us normal folk improvised, mended, and sometimes messed up construction. NOBODY will notice your 'mistakes'.
PS: that linen shift is amazing to sleep in, to wear under modern dresses to keep them clean, to just wear in summer around the house if it's hot. So many uses out of one basic project.
😅😅😅 as someone who is playing around in the 16th century… dear god brace yourself for the cost. Even just getting wool for a lower class impression? SPENDYYYYY. Linen? Gonna cost ya.
Absolutely. I find wool in particular to be prohibitively expensive--I'm glad I live in a climate where it isn't a sensible choice! 😂
Something that really differentiate Grecian and roman dress to me is the hairstyling i haven't as of yet seen that many roman hairstyles that were on the easy side, but they're a lot of fun
Cool! I don't know anything about the hairstyles,I have to admit, but it sounds like a fun rabbithole!
So many tiny tiny rows of curls, all greased and sewn in place!
@@maddiedoesntkno and braids (generally two to ten-ish, more tends to veer into box braid territory) those around the begining of the first millenum after the split from the western and the byzantine empire) that generally look like a smoothe rounded bob are probably hiding a lot of complex structure that is lost to us (art generally looking more stylised at that time)
I’ll share what has helped me. I’m African American so a ton of these hairstyles aren’t made for my hair type. But if you look carefully, you can almost always find at least one FREE black woman hanging around a Western civilization. So I watch what those women did with their hair. Another thing that helps is to look at the hairstyle for what it is and work with what your hair can handle. Its helpful to know your hairtype (1-4, a-c). If you have 1a hair, its not going to hold a curl well and it’s not going to give Athenian ringlets, but every woman in Ancient Greece was not blessed with curly hair. What did they do instead? Be prepared to accessorize! I have 3c-4a hair, so I can work with my hair to loosen my tight curls into ringlets, or I can weave a solid headdress into my hair and still look very Greco-Roman. This is how we work with modern styles today, we just don’t think about it as consciously. I never get extensions even though they are extremely popular today because it’s expensive and not suitable for my hair type, but I belong in this era and am a native of this era nonetheless.
Fun video! Though I'd like to add that for 1890s corset, you can opt to make one out of a straight busk instead of a spoon busk as it is surprisingly historically accurate for the entire Victorian era. While a spoon busk corset will be historically accurate for 1870s - 1890s (at least through my untrained eye and looking at patents, fashion prints, magazine and newspaper ads). It's no wonder why so many people love 1890s for its practicality and versatility😁
Glad you enjoyed it! And yes, straight busks are way more versatile! And SO much cheaper. 100% the better option.
I started with regency and 18th century, but got a pair of 18th century stays from Jas Townsend. Unfortunately, now I’ve got Long Covid I am going to have to figure out a disabled friendly way of closing up stays and something to do with the back that leaves a little adjustability
Ugh, that sucks! Good luck, I hope you figure out a solution!