Wool Fabric 101: Supplies for Sewing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
- Let's talk about the varying types of wool you'll regularly find on the market today and what's appropriate for historical costuming! There's a lot of different textile options and it can quickly end up confusing, so I'm not only going to break down the definition of each, but we'll look at the textile close up, see how it handles, and even sometimes how it makes up into a finished garment!
- Gauze
Sheer, soft
Space between threads wider to make fabric sheer
- Challis
Light weight, soft
Unstructured and mostly opaque (depending on color)
- Crepe
Light weight, soft
Bumpy texture and matte finish
- Jersey
Light weight, soft
Knit with stretch that is generally opaque (depending on color and stretch amount)
- Suitings
Broad term for midweight wools that are opaque and trend hard over soft hand
- Worsted
Midweight, mid to hard hand
Any suiting that uses worsted wool threads that will result in a smoother, glossier finish
- Tropical
Light weight, mid hand
Specifically light weight suiting
- Super Xs
Midweight, mid hand
Refers to number of threads packed in and quality of textile. Up to 200s
- Flannel
Midweight, mid hand
Has been fulled to soften one or both sides
- Gabardine
Midweight (sometimes heavy), mid to hard hand
Twill weave that trends towards stiffer depending on weight and thread count
- Satin/Sateen
Midweight, mid hand
Uses satin weave to achieve a glossier side
- Silk/Wool
Can be many different weaves, but often is a satin weave that has a harder hand
- Tweed
Mid to heavy weight, harder hand
Variegation in colors with a harder, rougher feel
- Bouclé
Threads are spun with extra loops added that create a lofty finish
- Coating
General term referring to heavier weight textiles that are best as outerwear or less fitted garments
- Melton
Heavy, mid to hard hand
Twill weave that is fulled
- Broadcloth
Heavy, mid to hard hand
Plain weave that is fulled and good qualities can keep a cut edge. Superfine, Fine, Medium, etc grades applied to discuss quality (not weight)
- Serge: Double sided Twill
- Kersey: Twill with a fulled side
- Stuff: Worsted wool (twill or plain)
- Linsey Woolsey: Linen and Wool mix
- Camlet: Goat/Silk, Camel/Silk, or later Wool/Silk
- Calamanco/Callimanco: Glazed wool
Favorite Suppliers
burnleyandtrowbridge.com/
www.thehistoricalfabricstore....
www.eatonhilltextiles.com/
("faux" fur) shop.intercaltg.com/
🖼 Scales: www.scienceimage.csiro.au/lib...
🖼 Crimp: aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_b/B409/we...
🖼 Iran: www.aaacollection.com/film-ey...
🖼 Camlet: digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/vi...
00:00 Attributes
04:20 Animals
07:18 Wool Terms
12:24 Sheer & Light
15:57 Suitings
20:03 Special Weaves
25:10 Coatings
28:11 Historical
31:48 Modern
Socials
Instagram: / silk_and_buckram
Tiktok: / cloche_call
Patreon: / nicolerudolph
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com) - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Since I often get asked where I get my fabrics in the video from, here are the most likely sources (some of these pieces are years old and no longer sold, but these businesses are my favorites for wool):
burnleyandtrowbridge.com/
www.thehistoricalfabricstore.com/
www.britexfabrics.com/
www.bblackandsons.com/
Is wadmalet something that was used and are used outside Scandinavian? I maybe missed it but don't think it come up so thats why I asking
Can you recommend any suppliers in Europe please? Thank you :)
Hey, just a quick question...what lipstick are you wearing? It's gorgeous !!!!
@@tambriggs i know the historical fabric store is based in sweden
Please can you recommend any suppliers in the UK too? Great video, as ever - and just as I am trying to buy wool for a winter coat 😊
Fun fact: You can spin several types of dog fur. The Navaho nations and many Scandinavian peoples have been doing so for centuries!
There's a book. It has a little chart on what breeds are best for spinning. Some people call it chiengora (from chien=dog, + angora) to mitigate the public perception that dog hair is inherently stinky.
Russian women from Siberia were spinning dog fur to make gloves and socks
Just remember if it sheds on the animal, it will shed on you. :)
@@Odontecete a little bit but finishing the yarn tends to help with the shedding tendencies. Spinning a controlled twist without letting the twist go into the drafting fibers also helps prevent that
My Mom has spun dog fur.
Besides being allergic to lanolin, I know a few people who are allergic to the chemicals that are used to process wool, not the wool itself. I have suggested to folks who said straight off "I'm allergic to wool" to do the test--handle raw wool and see if you react. If not, it's probably the chemicals, not the lanolin.
When I started spinning, I was told to put some of the raw wool in my bra to see if I was allergic to it. Luckily, I wasn't.
Agreed. I'm allergic to some leathers, and I think it's more to do with the tanning/dye process of those leathers, than the actual base product itself. But yeah.. Leather sandals give me some very interesting rashes.
I'm convinced that for some of us, it's neither an allergy to the lanolin nor the treatments. It's the insulating properties. I can wear very fine merino IF it is very cold in the space (circa 20F or lower) AND I wear a full layer below so that no part of the wool touches my skin. Otherwise it's heat rash city and raised welts after less than 10 minutes.
This is why I get frustrated with folks who say, "oh, just try a softer wool or lighter weight."
I wonder if there's a way to test or otherwise find out exactly what kinds of chemicals are in the dye? 🤔
I don't know if its the lanolin as I've had a handcream with lanolin in and not had any issues with it (don't know if that was because the lanolin was not from an animal source though), but wool is just so itchy and scratchy even if the garment is lined and I wear something under it. If the fibers can even remotely poke through somehow its so awfully scratchy like microscopic barbs are being dragged across my skin. The feeling is not dissimilar to touching fiberglass. Raw wool itches, but then so does petting alpacas and they're meant to be hypoallergenic so 🤷♀️. I think for some of us it might just be to do with the texture as much as an actual allergy. And don't start me on people telling me to just feel their new super duper soft merino wool jumper... They get so upset when it just feels like fine grade sandpaper to me. I don't understand how it feels soft to them. My poor Mum had to wear wool tights to school and would have welts on her legs from having done so, so thankfully she's never forced woolen stuff on me.
It really bugs me because I would LOVE to have some beautifully tailored garments like this, but there isn't anything which quite manages to have the same structural properties for suiting projects as wool. And it bugs me on the level that its quite an eco-friendly fabric to make things from.
This is very useful info for knitters, too! Just to clarify, in case some are confused, in knitting "worsted" means something entirely different -- it means a mid-weight/thickness yarn, regardless of fibre content. It can also be referred to as "medium" or "4". You might also see "light worsted" which is a "3" on the thickness scale.
This is true for knitting yarns only. Worsted started life as a spinning term, as Nicole said, but a specific type of knitting yarn became known as knitting worsted because it was a worsted spun knitting yarn. Over time, the term changed meanings to refer to the yarn size, and now most knitting worsted is woolen spun!
Credentials: I'm a spinner, knitter, and have designed and sold knitting patterns. The history of fiber technology has fascinated me for decades.
Yes. I said I was talking about knitting and what it means for knitters. I was just adding to the conversation because some folks might be confused to see the term "worsted" used on the packaging for yarn.
@@amb163 Very few modern yarns use the term "worsted" any more. Usually "medium/4" for craft yarns, and either 4-ply (even if not technically 4 plies) or aran/light aran for pricier yarns.
Light/3 is what we used to call "sport yarn"
@@webwarren Massively disagreeing with this, or at least over in the UK, and from what I can tell from my time spent online the international knitting trend isn't much different. Yarns are never referred to by the number scale here. Even 4-ply is disappearing as a yarn thickness (in recognition that it's not helpful because any thickness of yarn can be made with 4 plies), and fingering is more likely to be used. Aran is much thicker than worsted, and is commonly used, but Worsted appears quite frequently to refer to yarns in between that thickness and a DK weight.
@@hilltop-cloud I am holding my hand up for UK knitters (crocheters) as well. From my perspective, "worsted weight" is a term used in some international books and patterns but I was always told to substitute for DK (Double knitting) yarn.
I can however see everyone's point here, Nicole's info give insight to yarn users as well as fabric users, especially concerning functionality and fibres. The worsted explanation gives us some history into the use of the term and we can extrapolate how it came into knitting yarn terminology in US. And us Brits have a completely different yarn weights terminology.
When I watch one of your lectures I genuinely feel like I am involved in an online university course! Thank you professor!
I was just thinking that very same thing!! So yes thank you professor!
I agree, but also this is so much better than any university course I have ever taken
Re: felting - I don't know if superwash wool exists in fabric as well as yarn, but some heritage breeds of sheep produce wool that is naturally resistant to felting. Highly recommend the Knitter's Book of Wool for anyone who wants to know about all the sheep that aren't Merino or Shetland.
Wool fabrics that are mixed with things like a little bit of polyester are extremely washable. Just wash and dry before cutting your garment.
@@karinkiltz5626 Thanks for the tip. I knit, so I'm familiar with washing knit woolen garments, but wovens aren't something I've worked with before.
@@Eloraurora it's very cold in my office in the winter. I buy heavier wools, sometimes coat weight, make long skirts with heavy lining, not china silk, and I'm toasty warm. The blends are less expensive, washable, last for years just like 100% wool.
@@karinkiltz5626 what sort of lining do you use?
Smartwool products are all superwash. They make many types of socks, hats, base layers, mid-layers, ect.
Should you ever be in the UK try and make time to visit Leeds to visit the Armley Mills Industrial Museum - they have great preserved 19thC mill equipment still in working order showing the process from prepping the raw wool to fulling broadcloths. They still use some of the equipment to occasionally make special heritage fibres. Oh! and they still have a lot of the original sample books of the various wool fabrics you could get!
These fiber 101 videos are fantastic, and such a great source for sewists! Much of my specific fiber knowledge comes from the custom rug trade, so it's interesting to see the cross over in characteristics - a cut pile mohair rug does indeed have a lovely lustre, and a boucle weave alpaca is fluffy and soft....
Knitpicky spinner here, worsted yarns have a different preparation than woolen yarns. Wool prepared for a worsted yarn will be combed into top and all the shorter fibers discarded as waste. Wool prepared for a woolen yarn is carded into rolags or roving which look kind of like clouds. Woolen yarns are fluffier because of woolen prep. Woolen yarns and worsted yarns also go hand in hand since what fibers are too short for worsted yarns can be used to prepare woolen yarns.
It’s so good to know that it doesn’t produce waste.
@@katherinemorelle7115 there is always waste in either preparation.
@@SomethingBeautifulHandcrafts Yeah, but the waste from the worsted prep is often used to make woolen yarns both by hand spinners and at the industrial level..
You know Nicole, if you worked all this info up (from all the different videos) into some sort of textile booklet with a big chart of names, info, weave, pictures for illustration, and more pictures of garments to illustrate drape/etc, I would buy it for sure!!!
Wool is one of those fibers I know very well as a knitter, but it's a completely different game in sewing. Thanks for adding this resource!
Same! I’m a connoisseur of sheep breeds too, so I cringe at everything wool now being defined by Merino (or if you’re lucky, you still hear Shetland).
Re: Lanolin - I was taught in the late 80's, that Lanolin was only a problem if the animal had been through the sheep-dip recently before shearing. The chemicals in the sheep-dip could contaminate the lanolin if not left for a certain amount of time. I think that now-a-days, they're able to separate the lanolin from the contaminants, as I use a very heavy lanolin cream for my dry and sensitive skin with no problems.
The problem with allergies is 2 fold: 1. you can be allergic to ANY protein, and animals/plants tend to make a lot of different proteins. Some folks are just straight up allergic to sheep, same as to nuts.
And then 2 is an issue you touched on: cross contamination and cross sensitization. You may only be reacting to the sheep dip, but once you start reacting to it, you can become sensitized to sheep themselves. The immune system being adaptable, it will sometimes decide that anything close is the bad dude too, that is to say if ABA is bad for you, then ABB is horrible too, which is why Larch allergies lead to Banana allergies despite being very different plants (a more commonly known one is ragweed resulting in chamomile allergies, but those plants tend to be more closely related.)
Lanolin is considered hypoallergenic and very similar to human oil. I use it and now buy from NZ online. I do understand how people can be sensitised regardless plus contamination. Now the normal moisturisers and crappy lanolin mixes are skin threatening imo, having lovely skin despite my age, and no cosmetic ever needed on skin. Just lips eyes …
A couple of additional points, from someone who has worked with wool for (eep!) over 50 years. Excellent video, I learned a lot about fabric types.
1. I was taught to pronounce challis as "shallie". I have no idea if either pronunciation is right or wrong.
2. Thanks for mentioning that wool can be wet cleaned safely. It can also be put through the spin cycle on a washing machine - no agitation, just the spin! I learned to wash my hand knit woolies in my top loading washer, using it as a laundry tub, then spin drying my wool before drying.
Also, in addition to agitation felting the wool, sudden changes in water temperature can trigger felting. So don't wash in hot water and rinse in cold, unless you *want* to felt or full your wool!
I usually run my wool fabric through the delicate cycle with cool and then hang-dry. Most of my handknits are hand-washed, and then I squeeze the water out by rolling them in a towel and stepping on them, and then they get laid flat to dry to avoid undue stretching. It's a process, but it's not really that hard.
Yes to putting wool on the spin cycle! In fact, I like to do the whole wash in the machine. I let it fill just enough to cover the clothes (with the lid open so it can’t start agitating if I get sidetracked while it’s filling), let things soak with wool wash (Eucalan is fabulous, no rinse wool wash) swish it a little (gently!!!!), then switch the dial to drain and spin. Lay it flat to dry and that’s it!
"Shallie" isn't wrong, it's just the French pronunciation.
I wash wool fabric in my washing machine before I sew it up.
As for my best dress tropical-weight wool trousers, I wash them in cool water and shampoo in the bathtub with minimal agitation. But they were a bit large on me before I washed them the first time, can’t say it won’t shrink a bit.
@@charischannah I usually wash by hand all my wools but I do the same with a towel! Works excellent for the lighter knits, specifically the cashmere!
I love knitting with alpaca wool, so soft & warm! Sheep wool is still nice too, but I find myself more drawn to alpaca. Love this video!
Not sure how I ended up falling down the rabbit hole that is fashion history, but I've been bingeing on the videos here for the last week or 2. So many things I didn't know. Thanks Nicole!
Did I just watch an entire video on a fibre I am incredibly allergic to?? Yes, it was fascinating. Thank you Nicole for such an informative video!
Annoyingly I'm not allergic to lanolin, but the wool fibre itself. I have tried to wear every kind of wool that I could get my hands on (sheep, alpaca, goat, rabbit) but they all do the same thing to me. That is I get giant itchy welts after wearing them for about 10-30 mins. So no wool clothes or doonas for me. I will have to make do with watching talented people on TH-cam make amazing historical things out of wool.
I'm a knitter I got real excited for a second then I remembered you are a sewing channel. This is really interesting to know though.
I don't know if other people have this problem, but sometimes the dye used on the wool can also effect allergic reactions. I can't even touch Shetland worsted wool that's been dyed any shade of red without breaking out. It's some strange reaction of the worsting process with the Shetland wool and the underlying chemicals of the red dyes. And oddly, no problem with non-worsted Shetland wool no matter the color.
same reaction, only to the red!!
My sister had some type of eruption on her feet when she wore red socks, it was many years ago, I dont know if that type of red dye is still in use. She now wears white socks but she once told me that she did wear red sock at one point and didn't had the skin reaction. The reaction would create bubbles sort of like a blister. My mom would heat flax seeds in milk, cool the mixture and apply the paste to her soles and bandage her feet, it would heal but when we realized it was the color red, she wore only white socks and the problem went away.
WOW. That's interesting. I wonder if they've studid that.
That might be a reaction to carmine dyes. Carmine comes from a type of bug called cochineal and it was THE most popular red colorant for both cloth and food for a VERY long time. As a matter of fact, it's still a food additive in man countries including both the US and EU members and many "natural dyes" contain it. (But it's powdered bugs, and like many "natural" sources it can acerbate allergies due to cross contamination)
If so, watch out for certain shades of purple as well, as it was often used in conjunction with indigo or even processed to directly make purple/red shades.
@@mwater_moon2865 Thank you very much, I appreciate. I will keep this info in mind.
Nicole, how on Earth did you turn a 1920's jacket into possibly the most awesome 1980's outfit/vibe? Miami Vice: Earth Tones Edition!
In all seriousness though, I don't know why I never really looked into the history and world of wool but, thanks to you, I have another rabbit hole to dive down! (Hoping to find an angora bunny on the way!)
Glad you clarified coatings.... I was picturing stuff being applied to the wool. Lol. Not coats being made out of them.
I'm glad to see this video! I have several yards of wool to make winter dresses with but I was waiting for your crash course to make sure I knew what I was doing before I embarked on them 😂
I'm so happy that my mother made me wear a lot of wool as a child. I used to have a problem with wool itching and scratching. But she kept on knitting woolen jumpers, scarves, hats, gloves and socks for me. Now I don't have any problem with wool and sometimes even prefer the itchier types of wool, especially in winter 😁
For anyone who has a problem with itching or scratching of wool it can ve an option to wear a different softer garment underneath it. I wore a lot of turtle necks under my jumpers 😅
Many years ago I was told that "satin" referred to any fabric, regardless of fibre, woven with the long floats on the warp, and "sateen" was woven with the long floats on the weft. i've never double-checked this, but I think now is the time.
Wool is absolutely my favourite fibre to sew, with the exception of gaberdine - I have lots of challenges with pressing it still. I find wool crepe, in particular, almost able to sew itself.
Yay! Wool is the god tier of the cloth diapering world. If you felt it well and bathe it in lanolin periodically, it becomes almost waterproof.
Wool/silk blends are the best!!! I first encountered them with wearing kimono. It creates a fantastic textured textile when woven into different patterns. The addition of wool makes the typically not so breathable silk much less stifling.
I do wonder if the glazing will make a come back with the increase in interest I see with primative breeds like Icelandics that have harsher wool. This video reminded me I need to get wool socks soon. Nothing like wool socks for farm work in Montana winters!
I'm a convert to stranded knit wool socks. There are a lot of free patterns on Ravelry if you're a knitter - mostly by Germans and Finns, who seem to be the champions of the sock knitting world. I don't know an American supplier for purchasing wool socks as I'm Australian
Oh Montana is the coldest!!!! Best of luck to you in your toasty woolies!
What socks brands do you suggest? My toes are frozen!
Great video! Could you do one on researching prints, stripes and plaids for different time periods? That's one of the hardest things for me when trying to get fabric right.
I loved this video! I'm not surprised you didn't mention musk ox fiber (qiviut) as I've only ever seen it as yarn, but it is out there and is absolutely luxurious! I loved knitting with it and it blocks like a dream. It's a little fuzzy and has a soft luster to it, soft like alpaca but even warmer.
Thanks for this, Nicole. I wrote my Honours thesis on 18th century British worsted textiles and studied clothier's sample books in the UK. The callamancos in the various books were a satin weave, rather than twill. I've seen various other things referred to as callamanco in museums etc- mostly because they were glazed - but in the sample books they were satin weave. Of course textile terms changed over time and probably varied between continents, too. The samples I studied were predominantly quite fine fibres and fine spinning. They were late 18th century, so before the significant changes in sheep breeding really kicked in in hte early 19th century. On my bucket list is to spin and weave both a callamanco and a camlet dress. The camblet will be easier - I did make some sample pieces for my thesis.
::swoons::
There's more than 130 different sheep breeds, 60+ just in the UK. And no, it's not about "fluffiness" of the breed, that's behind the world's domination of Merino and Shetland... it's the result of politics in the 19th and 20th century. There are dozens of breeds with *much* softer wool than fine Merino. E.g. Soay (Rare/Native British breed) undercoat is softer than cashmere but it's difficult to de-hair (reduce the amount of kemp). Yarn made from 1st shear "Ronnie" (North Ronaldsay) is just as soft as the fine Shetland. Dishley-type breeds (most notably Blue-faced Leicester)are comparable, if not superior, to Merino. And when we are talking about Calamanco, think traditional British longwools (Teeswater, Lincoln etc). The cloth from these breeds and many others such as Manx Loaghtan, Black/White Welsh Mountain, Lonk, Oxford, Boreray, Soay, Cornwall Longwool or Cotswold is way more appropriate for historical clothes as there's lots or records to prove that such wools were traditionally and extensively used across Europe...and very probably elsewhere (the UK was built on wool trade/exports; the USA/Canada in their early days imported wool/sheep breeds predominantly from the UK).
Thanks! I was wondering about Welsh Mountain as a harder wool... grew up in North Wales, and my grandparents farmed those in the hills.
@@catherinerw1, absolutely. Our "Blackies" (Black Welsh Mountain) could be traced as far as to the 17th century. Black wool (BWM is the only UK breed with true black wool) was hugely popular in traditional costumes: black check on the Glamorgan cloth, grey stripes (black wool blended with white; alternating with yellow stripes) on the cloth from North Wales and many other variations. Socks in our area were always black, made from BWM wool, as they were mud-proof and warm enough even in the freezing rain. You may be also interested in Torddu and Torwen, as there's plenty of records that these breeds have been with us for centuries (these were used for rugged outerwear such as overcoats). Cheers from South Wales/De Cymru. 😊
Thanks for all the extra information. Up until this video, I had honestly assumed that the term "wool" referred solely to the fibre acquired from sheep and that things like alpaca didn't fall into the same category. I had no idea that there were so many kinds just from sheep! I've always been a bit adverse to (scared of?) wool since I first encountered it as a child and found it exceedingly itchy and uncomfortable. (Not sure exactly what kind it was, though. Probably not particularly good quality, to be fair.) Given your very obvious knowledge of many types of wool, though, do you know if there are wools that are less likely to cause allergic reactions or be super itchy? I know alpaca, at least, is hypoallergenic and very soft, but I would like to be able to incorporate more wool types into my wardrobe since I'll be moving to a much colder climate soon and am in need of warmer items. If you can make any recommendations for what to look for (or avoid!), that would be very much appreciated!
@@AmoCultumAlo, my pleasure. 😊 I am happy to share my passion for all things wool. Alpaca and other fibres are not exactly "wool" (as they don't have the same crimp= wave in the fibre not do they have those teeny tiny barbs around each fibre that are so specific to sheep's wool) but many people do refer to them as wool....and that's okay. Alpaca, mohair and angora are usually recommended for people with sensitive skin but (and there's one big BUT) these fibres can still cause an allergic reaction, sometimes even worse than coarse sheep's wool. You see, when you get a commercially-processed yarn/cloth/garment, the fibre has already lost most of its properties. Sadly, this applies to just about any fibre- sheep's wool, other animal fibres and bast fibres. Commercial processing (scouring, carding/combing, spinning, bleaching /dyeing, finishing) does involve dozens, more often 100+ harsh chemicals- in order to make large quantities of the fibre clean, smooth and many times liquified before they are spun into uniform yarn and turning the yarn into what people recognise as a hank of yarn/a piece of cloth: shiny, uniform, super-finely spun, with a certain feel. This use of harsh chemicals (let me not get started on the toxic effects of polyester, acrylic and rayon), and not lanolin, is the real reason why modern people feel so uncomfortable wearing natural sheep's wool and complain about "scratchiness".
@@jvnd2785 Oh wow, thanks heaps for all the extra info! I really appreciate you taking the time. And thanks for clarifying about those other fibres not technically being wool. That's the impression I'd always had, but after watching the video, I assumed I must have just had a fairly narrow definition of wool. Good to know, though, that they're not technically the same. And very good, indeed, to know that it's likely the chemicals the fibres are treated with rather than the raw fibres that tend to cause the allergic reactions. (Speaking of the toxic effects of the synthetics, I would join you in that rant!) So is there wool that you can get that's more naturally processed -- such that it doesn't result in reactions or scratchiness? Or is that basically impossible to find nowadays? (Or perhaps not impossible but prohibitively expensive?) Thanks again!
As a spinner and knitter, i love hearing your perspective on the fabric side of things. You speak of it differently than those focused on the yarn aspect, and it's wonderful to hear it in a new way
What a splendid wool fabric/fibre presentation, thank you! I am pleased wool seems to be making a come back! And I am unable to contain it...I LOVE TWEED!
No-rinse wool wash is a great way to clean wool products. I know it sounds really questionable, but it works. I've been using it on hand knits, including socks, for years and they come out clean, soft, and not stinky.
Just to clarify: *worsted weight* is a thickness of yarn. Knitters are going to think of this in terms of knitting gauge (stitches per inch), but originally it was used to designate a specific ratio of ounces of wool per yard of yarn.
*Worsted spun* yarn refers to a method of spinning. This is yarn that has been combed in the processing before it’s spun into yarn. So wool that’s ready for spinning has been cleaned and left in bats, which look like big piles of poly fiber filling for a pillow. A spinner will take these piles of batting and spin them, but sometimes, depending on the sheep breed, (because, yes some wool breeds have longer and/or smoother fiber strands than others) sometimes the batting is combed first so that the fibers are flatter and smoother. The two spins produce rather different characteristics to the hand knitter. Not being a weaver myself I can’t speak to that.
Lastly, this may be a quirk to knitters & crocheters, but we don’t tend to refer to anything except sheep’s wool as *wool* .Other wool-like fibers are referred to by the animal; (except angora goat yarn is called “mohair” while “angora” is angora rabbit).
ETA: Oh, darn. This was meant to be a reply on AM B’s comment on knitter’s terms. Sorry!
I agree and I think it’s an etymology argument sort of thing on what “wool” is. Sometimes it is defined as being produced by a secondary follicle, which I think only sheep have? Only sheep really have distinctive crimp, which is why it is the only one that actually holds its shape (very noticeable in something like a knitted sweater).
As a handspinner wool/silk blends are one of my favorites to spin too. I’ve been amazed at how much my fiber knowledge from learning to spin has helped in my sewing too.
That’s interesting! I’m not really a sewer but definitely a spinner and knitter. I’ve just begun weaving, so the idea of cloth fabric is becoming more enticing.
My Mom spins fibers which include wool. I used to help her wash the raw wool and spread it on the grass to dry. She’s spun many fibers including muskox wool and silk.
Wool textiles are my favorite! They have such texture and lay so nicely compared to a lot of other fabrics.
Very helpful since I've been looking into coating. One thing I wanted to mention, mentions of Fulling in the subtitles comes up as "fooling", and wools comes up as "wolves"
That made me giggle, along with the angry rabbits
@@mnels5214 sometimes the auto captions can be quite funny.
Most of the sheep now are the fluffy kind but here in Norway, we still have some of the older kinds :)
Yes and the Navajo Churro breed, and some others that now produce rug wool mostly.
here in Australia in my region it's the rumply merinos exclusively, most of the others are for meat. And alpacas!
in northern Germany you can still find 'Heidschnucken' - a sheep breed with black faces and white coats that also produce somewhat rough wool and 'Pommersche Landschafe' which can naturally produce wool with a blue-grey luster
I will recommend Jacobs sheep wool. It is generally undyed so in shades of white through cream brown to black and grey and is the softest fluffiest non allergenic wool ever.
They are a rare sheep breed though becoming more common. If you find it buy it it is wonderful.
Yes! The video I've been dye-ing to watch!
I love your 101 series. It's really nice to finally understand what exactly many of the terms I've known of for decades but not really understood quite what they meant, or to be able to put a proper name to the thing I am looking for. Seeing the samples of all the different types of weaves in comparison is wonderful.
It may not be entirely within the purview of this series, but one more natural material it would be great to have a 101 for is leather. I know you're coming at it mostly from a shoe making perspective, but it would be great to have a bit more information about leather as it relates to clothing.
Once again, thank you so much for this series! I have a great appreciation for wool, it is essential in my cool, wet and windy climate if you want to stay out of doors. None of the modern fibers can touch it. My family, littles and all, are able to stay out and enjoy weather that sends everybody else in because we are all dressed in good quality wool.
That’s so neat about water marking camlet! I got some from Tudor Tailor a while back, and been saving it for a Lady and the Unicorn inspired look. Been working out if it was watermarked faille as the lining for the gowns - probably camlet instead! So brilliant - thank you!
There are silk wool blends? Ohhhhh....I want some of that, for sure!
I have a scarf made of a gorgeous silk and wool brocade. It’s so wonderfully soft and warm in the winter. It’s a dream to wear and I normally can’t stand wool.
Nicole, you're teaching here is phenomenal! I've been listening to your wool tutorial as I cut out some worsted weight and coating for a "sailor's or common man's jacket" by reconstructing history. I am so grateful for the incredible detail and historical information, tailoring, just all of this, it's absolutely amazing.
Thank you so very much!
I think we must have a campaign to buy some of this silk/wool blend for you, that you so much adore, and see what you would make of it!
You are very much appreciated 😌
I had to sit down on a drenched bench today and I was wearing a vintage wool skirt, literally didn’t feel a thing. I am autistic and damp is a major sensory trigger for me so this was pretty mind boggling! Wool is freaking magic
This is so incredibly useful and informative, Nicole! I have to go and watch all of the other videos now, because this alone has cleared up so many of my misunderstandings about wool!
This was an amazing video! Wool is such a versatile and functional material that many people have honestly completely forgotten about. I learned a lot in this video about the different types of it and how it's processed. I also noticed wool garments in general have become softer and fluffier now but less durable than decades past. Thanks for making this.
Funnily enough, it is fairly difficult to get decent quality wool in Australia. And when you do, it is prohibitively expensive. Even though so much of the world’s wool comes from here, Australian stockists don’t sell it much because they think Australian consumers won’t want it, because of the idea that wool is only for cold weather. And 3/4 of the country never really gets cold.
But if the sheep can wear it without overheating, I’m pretty sure we could too. But it’s just not easily available (and especially not in Queensland where I am), and I just can’t afford it. Most Queenslanders tend to only have a couple of wool knit sweaters that they’ll wear for a week or two in “winter” (heavy scare quotes there), and that’s about it, unless you’re someone who can afford a very expensive wool suit. It’s just very sad, especially because the quality of our wool is fantastic, though being Merino it is very soft, not at all scratchy.
we have the same problem in south Africa. we produce the wool but it doesn't get woven here. essentially we export it as raw fibres and then import it as finished cloth.
with 40% tax and still shipping 🙈
It's ridiculous, isn't it?!
And, trying to source a good weight Australian coating is like searching around for hen's teeth.
I come from a part of the country which produces some of the loveliest merino wool, but I have to look OS to source what I need. Which is insane. I'd much prefer to support local (Australian) farmers and manufacturers by being able to buy an Aust made product.
Trying to find wool fabrics in Australia is a bloody nightmare! All of the "wool" fabrics at spotlight are 20% wool at best (and often 100% synthetic). I'm yet to find a store that has any sort of range. In lieu of that, I'm saving up for all the gorgeous wools online and dreading the shipping
Might depend on your region! I'm in Canberra and it seems like we are overflowing with wool here. It might depend on your budget but they have very nice wool at Tessuti Fabrics, and if you want lightweight wool jerseys, The Fabric Store in Sydney/Melbourne/NZ has them. My issue has been with silk which you really can't seem to get anywhere, especially not dupion/taffeta. It's all chiffons and georgettes :( Wool and linen on the other hand are fine, but maybe not from Spotlight/Lincraft/the like, which in my opinion have such a woeful selection of every single fabric that I don't get anything from there except thread
Absolutely agree, heck I LIVE on a farm that produces wool and still have little to no access to the fabric 😭 I’ve seen shirts made up of the wool our breed of sheep produce and it was the softest most gorgeous fabric imaginable... would gladly have an entire wardrobe of it.
If you’ve never run across them before, the Australian Knitting Mills is worth a look for already made up clothing that’s budget friendly. Can recommend the quality relative to the price!
Nicole I’m going to fan girl again! You are truly amazing. There is so much information in your videos that I am going back with pen and paper and taking notes. Thank you so much for all you give to this community. Much love! ❤️❤️
Wonderful video! I live in Canberra, the capital of Australia, which is slap bang in sheep pasture territory. It's grassland with a lot of boulders so it's not great for crops, but it's good for wineries, olives...and sheep. The old joke about it was that it was a good sheep paddock spoiled. As a consequence I've met more than a few merinos in my time - there's even been people in Canberra who have them just in their front yard as pets/lawnmowers. Canberra and the region gets bloody cold in winter, and the houses are built mostly to tolerate the extreme heat we get in the summer, so in winter, one of the best ways to cope is just to blanket yourselves in copious amounts of wool. I started my wool skirt journey with one I got from a charity shop for $5 - and then I started wearing it when cycling to uni, and found that unlike wearing jeans I didn't end up with icicle crotch when I arrived. Now I have a stupid amount of wool skirts, which I wear with wool tights in the winter. I also have several coats and I've knitted myself a lot of wool socks, scarves, the odd hat and several jumpers.
As someone who knits I've come to the conclusion that "worsted' is an essentially useless term (here in Australia we'd historically call it 10 ply and it's not a popular weight here, we go more for 8 ply) so it's good to know it actually means *something* when it comes to wovens.
Now if anyone could tell me a foolproof way to keep the moths out of my wardrobe...I can darn my knits but when a woven gets a moth hole in it there's not really a good way of repairing it D:
btw if Australians want to buy wool (not historical, just general textile wool) Tessuti fabrics has a bunch of wool crepes and coatings, as does Minerva's Bower and The Fabric Store (they have more wool jersey than wovens). I've also gotten some from Etsy - fabricmade in China has wool flannels.
ALSO I've had success with handwashing wool knits! BUT I do not at all ever recommend washing a woolen skirt with pleats in it - like a kilt style, because the pleats will drop out and you'll end up with a horrific headache trying to iron them back in. don't do iiiiittt
If you can get a cedar chest to store your clothing, moths dont like the smell. They also dont really like lavender either. WHERE DID YOU GET WOOLEN TIGHTS? I would love to know where you bought them if you did. If you made them... Where did you get your pattern?🤔
Hurray! I am so hyped and thankful for this voyage into fiber knowledge. As always, thank you👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽💙 Nicole!
I know this video is a few years old, but this series of yours is really something that inspired me to try out different types of fiber content. I even made some hose and a mini cloak out of wool for ren faire. Logically, I know it's supposed to be good for both heat and cold, but I went to ren faire thinking I would immediately need to remove my cloak only to find that actually my mini cloak didn't provide enough coverage and I was trying to pull it over more of my body to protect myself from the sun! Oof. But this year was the first year I didn't get sunburned thanks to it.
Anyway, I used to wear a cloak for Aesthetics back in high school and I think it's time a cloak made it back into my regular wardrobe - this time being a more practical wool.
OMG what a wealth of Knowledge.
Ms Rudolf I can't appreciate enough about the knowledge which you have about Natural Fibres.I watched all your Natural Fibres and I am listing for beginners sake
Natural Fibres
Linen 101
Cotton 101
Silk 101
Wool 101
Then
Tailoring 101 also covers some on Wool.
Could also please do a separate video on
Synthetic Fibres /Man Made Fibres.
You are a great teacher.
Continue to inspire and baffle and enthrall us all.
After watching all the above 5 videos now I can go specifically ask the shop keeper what I want.
Previously I only stuck with
Cotton Linen Muslin and Calico.
Now my choice has expanded.
Best wishes.
Hmm. Very wool.
I've been really enjoying this series, it's so informative and has given me the exact terms to help hunt down exactly what I want/need when I'm fabric shopping.
Listening to this while making my third woolen coat ever. I love wool. I feel it's an investment. My favourite woolen coat is Edwardian inspired but with a very full floorlength skirt. I work as teachers assistant in first grade and when we go out in winter kids love it because if I see them shivering in the cold I drape the skirt over their shoulders and they warm up. It's such a fun thing, they call it a blanket coat.
Another wonderfully educational installment in your fabric series. 👏 Thank you so much for doing this.
Aw yeah it's my Sunday knowledge hit! Gimme the deets!
Oh, I don't have time to watch right now, but I am so looking forward to this one.
Just leaving a comment for the algorithm.
I've only just found your channel but I am addicted! Thank you for taking the time to research fabrics and present it in such an informative, interesting way.
I’m blown away by all the different weights of wool.
I had no idea.
Wool is such a wide and wonderful textile! Thank you for another totally awesome video, so enjoyed this episode.
I appreciate this excellent overview of wool. I also liked the other fibers 101 videos. I have long loved various types of wool. Thank you.
This will help me identify the vintage wools I bought at the estate sale of a former seamstress! Yay! Thank you, Nicole!
Your suit in the thumbnail is GORGEOUS- so chic
“The Invention of the Trousers” is a TH-cam video that includes the use of the outer and inner wool of sheep in two separate yarns. They point out how we tend to breed for the soft inner wool and it’s heritage breeds that still have the protective rough outer wool.
This is so useful for choosing my fibers. It is also really helpful as I read many 19th century novels and fabrics are often mentioned specifically. I loved this series.
I appreciate this series so much! I’m new to historical sewing and learning about the textiles is so fascinating. Thank you for all your labor! ❤️
Thank you for all the info condensed so quickly! I’d like to point out that part of the reason you’re finding alpaca harder wearing than wool is that nearly everything today for woolen textiles is Merino wool, which is not nearly as hard wearing as some of the other breeds of sheep’s wool. I generally recommend alpaca for items you want to drape rather than hold shape, because the lack of crimp in alpaca does mean it tends to “grow” and not spring back to its original design as wool does (different fibers for different purposes!).
I raise sheep and am a spinner and knitter, btw. I’ve more recently gotten into weaving and am fascinated by Medieval broadcloth. Which, as you pointed out, would have been coarser and MUCH harder wearing than the broadcloth of today as the sheep used would likely have been the precursors to breeds such as Cotswold, Romney, Southdown, etc. Their fiber would probably have actually been more lustrous than Merino but stronger and longer.
Nicole, these videos are amazing. I can not believe the wealth of knowledge you are giving us. I have been sewing for over 20 years and didn't know most of this about fabric. Also, in this age of online shopping, I think you are helping a lot us avoid mistakes. I have bought things many times and then though "what the heck is this" when it arrives. Purchasing with a lot more knowledge will help me pick the right things.
Oh my god the black dotty suit is absolute goals!
im a spinner in art university working on a fibre major, the description of the watered wool sounds so interesting to me.
I really enjoyed learning about wool. I'm from a hot climate and have only had one wool skirt in my life.
With regards to the sheep used for some historic fabrics not being around anymore, here in the UK, they absolutely are. The upland grazing areas just don't work for the merino-type of shooter wools, so they're still kept in huge numbers. The sturdier fleeces keep the sheep dry and weather-proof, so that aspect has changed very little, and it's a very low-input method of farming. What has changed is the rise of synthetics, and the push towards softer clothing which is worn without layers of "linens" underneath to keep the prickles at bay. As a result that fleece doesn't go in to the clothing market. Much is used in carpets, as high quality carpets use wool due it's natural resistance to staining, and greater durability over synthetics. The rest is used in insulation, mostly house insulation, but there's a greater prevalence towards it being used in transporting goods that need to be kept cool.
Brilliantly taught! I have been searching for a wool tutorial. Thank You
Absolutely love the presentation, as an individual who has been able to travel around the world, I’ve collected textiles, and I’ve purchased many varieties of vintage textiles, tribal, textiles and rare and unusual dyed textiles of various materials.
*stares at screen* where did you find linsey-woolsey? I would love to find some in a larger piece that the scarves from Burnley and Trowbridge.
I'm enjoying this series. Thanks for putting it together.
Important note regarding alpaca yarn if you are a knitter: hand knit alpaca items tend to grow! So that sweater that fit perfectly when first knit will quickly become oversized, particularly too long, thanks to gravity.
Yes exactly. Alpaca does not have the “memory” wool has as it does not have the same crimp structure. I tell people alpaca is great for items you want drape in, but not items you want to hold their shape (like socks and sweaters).
I really love these videos! They are so informative ❤ Though natural wool is virtually non-existent here in Brazil.
Wow I have so much to learn! The only ones I recognized as wool was tweed on. I had never seen the lightweight wools before!
I picked up a nice big piece of purple wool at a second hand store, super cheap! I was so excited! Not certain what I will do with it but I love it already!
As I’m watching this I’ve spinning some lovely Blue Faced Leicester wool that I’ve dyed with Indigo, while wearing a sweater that I knit using Rideau wool dyed with Marigolds
Why do i feel I trust this TH-cam Chanel more than the others? Where is my bias coming from? They are all awesome but whyyyy???
As an outdoors woman, as well as a commercial textile rep, wool is a great choice for a myriad of uses as it keeps one warm when wet as well as being naturally antimicrobial and antibacterial (i.e. it doesn’t hold stink).😂 I’ve spent weeks kayaking on a river, wearing Merino, and was warm and toasty and didn’t smell to high heaven like many of my companions wearing Tech fabrics.
This is very useful! I'm a novice and have some ideas for things I need, like, I get cold in winter so I want a woolen petticoat but I don't care about historically accurate, I just want warm waterproof skirt thing. (Even cotton skirts and leggings are surprisingly good for wading through snow, I imagine a wool petticoat and loose trousers and dream of my victory over nor'easters) Anyway, how do I decide what kind of wool I need for a project?
I have a knitted woolen underskirt! It's mostly alpaca , but mixed with sheep wool and also 10 % nylon. It is second hand, but when I got it it needed some patching. I think it would be sturdier with 25% nylon. It's loosely knitted with fuzzy wool and is a tulip shape so it fits underneath tighter skirts but doesn't rip at the hem. I think a fuzzy sock wool would be about the same kind of wool. It has a very thin elastic waistband with the elastic casing the same knitwork as the rest of the skirt, no separate waistband.
I would think a wool flannel would make a lovely petticoat. The brushed surface would trap more air and increase the warmth.
Thank you both so much!
Ooh, that sounds like an excellent idea....
Lovely I have wool thermals in Aus. I am wearing a top and leggings right now. Lanolin is considered equivalent to human oils, hypoallergenic but if the sheep had had weird treatment then the lanolin could be affected. A merino fleece as it peels off a sheep in shearing has globules of pearlescent glowing oil on the fleece. I buy Linton Tweeds online some are pure wool, lovely wool crepe.
SOMEONE got into the gall nut jungle juice. jk, love your hair! its a good color on you :)
Thank you so much for this series- the wool in particular. It was a really useful series and has helped me really plan my own fiber art. I spin and weave but I hadn't been able to make all the information line up in my head to spin with a purpose and a game plan. This was incredibly helpful as I'm starting a project that will benefit greatly. I have had the information but it was never functionally accessible. And I know where I can go to find things explained in a way that makes sense to me. Thank you so much
I'm allergic to wool, so this episode is very interesting to me.
To those wondering; wool feels very scratchy to me, even more so than people sometimes say.
If I wear wool i first get very itchy, the skin turns red and starts to swell a bit. If I do not take of the piece of clothing during that time and continue wearing it (having the wool intermingle with my sweat etc.) I'll get blisters all over that spot, that still itch and the pressure of the swelling causes them to pop, making things worse.
Yeah, that definitely sounds like a nasty allergy. Is it all wool or just 🐑🐏 wool? Or have you even risked trying other wools? Because if I was in your shoes, I don't know if I would want to risk it.
@@SusanYeske701 To tell the truth I've been holding off the boat on trying other types of wool, I've petted sheep trying to figure out if it was just wool or the sheep themselves and that was a big mistake. I was sneezing even before reaching the sheep. XD
This video was amazing! Thank you so much for the information here. I can’t wait to watch your other cloth videos.
You had me at cellulosic. As always - wonderful and informative
This was perfect, I just bought a pattern for a nice coat, this knowledge will come in so handy now!
Nice. I dabble in making handcrafted suits for myself and only use 100% wool and other natural fabrics. I looove woolen cloths.
I *love* your look today. Witchy queen. Excellent.
Closed caption:" I am really allergic to angora but not to other wolves."
🤔
I have heard of a wolf in sheep's clothing but not one in a rabbit's
As per usual with your videos I am left speechless! So much thought, planning and work must've went into this. This is such a good video and it's informative. How am I watching this for free again???
This was so informative! I'm getting into hand sewing to make a Ruana cloak, and I heard Melton wool would likely be well-suited for the job, but couldn't find a good description of what exactly Melton wool was and how it differed from other types of wool. This video was EXACTLY what I was looking for, so thank you!
Oh my gosh, so much information! So many answers to things I've always wonderred about. Thank you!!!
Great video, very informative! Thanks for generously sharing your knowledge with us.
Fun fact: Ankara, Turkey is the home of Angora Rabbit and Angora Goat. Angora is one of the historical names of Ankara. There are several other Angora rabbit breeds that are bred in other countries too.
This is fascinating. I do remember finding sheep's wool really scratchy, but I didn't break out. Can handle lanolin in moisturizers just fine.
I sure hope wool comes back more widely available as apparel fabric. I want to make my first walking skirt but I'm having a really hard time figuring out just what100% natural fabric to get at a budget that I can afford. I look at what I can find at Joann Fabric and I'm seriously underwhelmed. I've been hunting online stores for good sales, but only black, grey, etc seem to be available.
To quickly work out if it's 100% natural fibre, take a sample and try to singe a corner. If it's wool then it will smell something awful (as you are burning hair) but it will quickly self extinguish and leave black crumbly residue.
Any plastic in it will melt and bead up into a hard ball once cooled, and it will also either take far longer to self extinguish, or it will catch (meaning you'll have to put it out)
Hope that helps :)
@@halu959986 Right, these burn tests really help! It's figuring out the best source to buy something like 5 yards for a walking skirt to wear during fall/winter for a reasonable price that is my problem right now ...
You're definitely not alone in being seriously underwhelmed by joanns. Depending on where you live, there may be a "discount designer" fabric store within driving distance--stores like these buy mill ends at a bargain, and their prices are typically MUCH lower than you'll find in a "current" shop! I've seen wool suitings that would sell in New York for $120 a yard listed for $25 a yard at a store in Connecticut and $6--yes, $6--at my favorite place Massachusetts. The selections can be unpredictable, but the prices can't be beaten. Definitely worth looking to see if there's one in your area!
@@AskLucius mind name-dropping? I'm in the area, more or less, and I don't mind driving a bit for some good deals!!
@@BelleChanson0717 Sewfisticated Discount Fabrics! They have stores in Framingham, Dorchester, and Somerville. Framingham is my go-to, worth the two and a half hour drive, for sure! There's also Osgood Textile in West Springfield--not quite as inexpensive, but the size of a Costco and stacked to the ceiling. Have fun!!