Ender-3 stepper motor dampers with press-fit pulleys! [SUB ITA]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2019
- 🛒⚙️ You can get the items you need here: kit.co/a_make_designs/ender-3
Are you fed-up with the noise coming from the stepper motors of your Ender-3, but you have press-fit pulleys that cannot be removed?
Here is a video guide to install stepper motor dampers without touching the motors!
MATERIAL YOU NEED
- 2x stepper motor dampers (of course...)
- 3D printed spacer for Y-axis motor (2 parts) designed by matthijsp [www.thingiverse.com/thing:324...]
- 3D printed spacer for X-axis motor (2 parts) original design from A-make [www.thingiverse.com/thing:336...]
- 2x M3x20mm socket head screws
- 4x M3x25mm screws
- 2x M4x30mm screws
- 2x M3 nuts
- 10x M3 washers
The firmware needs to be modified to swap the rotation direction of the X-axis motor. To do this you need to flash a bootloader to the printer and do a small edit in the firmware.
Teaching Tech has an excellent video for this procedure: • Ender 3: How to instal...
I’m using TH3D firmware and this is what I show in the video.
If you are having trouble with the procedure, post your questions in the comments and I will gladly help.
If you want to support my work with a small donation you can do it through PayPal here:
🍩 paypal.me/amakedesigns
🔗 LINKS:
🛒 My recommended items: kit.co/a_make_designs
💾 Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/A-make-de...
📘 Facebook: / amakedesigns
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Thanks for this guide. My printer is almost silent now, it's only the fans that are noisy. Just to note, you do not have to modify any of the software when putting together the Y axis. Before putting the cable back into the stepper motor, you can carefully lift the little plastic tabs on the cable and pull out the pins. Put the pins back in the opposite order and the motor will work fine.
I had the dampeners sitting around for a long time and just got around to installing them. I would not have been able to do it without your parts and guide. Thank you very much.
Excellent video!
I must say, you sound a bit like Valtteri Bottas! Made the video that much better for me!
Thanks! I don't know him, I will look it up!
I did the mod on the Y axis only and the result is already amazing, good job !
Great job. I appreciate all the thought and talent that went into this, and thank you for posting a video of all of this.
This is crazy I'm just learning this lesson now. Watched a tone of vids about the dampers. No one mentions this cause Ender # was upgrade. I learned the hard way after ordering the parts. Thanks so much
Thanks. ITS SOOOOOO MUCH QUIETER! I don't usually comment but your video saved me, I can finally sleep! Thanks you!
Hi, I finally completed the steps in this video and I have to say that I'm very impressed. From the design of the parts, to the instruction in this video..GREAT JOB. Many thanks to your contribution!
Where did you source the screws for this build? Having an issue finding what I need.
They are super common in Italy. The list of what you need is in the video description
You are my hero. Thank you so much for this video and the parts you designed! My printer is now eerily silent when printing. I had some trouble finding the long m3 and m4 screws since most hardware stores only go up to 20 for m3 and 25 for m4...so now i have random stainless screws that don't match the black ones on the rest of the printer....oh well, it's definitely worth it.
P.S. I was trying to figure out the reason for the extra hole on the part that hits the x-axis stop switch when I was putting it together, then realized it's your channel logo! Well played, sir. I will display it proudly XD
Tyler Sneen so happy it worked for you!
I put my logo on all my designs ;-)
An excellent solution to the problem and a helpful vid - thank you. :) I bought these isolation mounts along with the Ender 3....then saw all the comments about the new machines having pressed on pulleys. Doh! ;)
I did the same :-)
Thanks alot for this video. Got my new dampers easily installed!
Well,THAT sucks!!! I just started assembling my new Ender 3 Pro,and after watching lots of upgrade videos whilst it was being shipped on a slow boat,now that it has arrived,I THOUGHT I would get a jump on the game by installing the new belts(Gates Fiber),Capricorn tube,dampeners,etc.,and ran into the pressed pulley situation.I really THANK YOU for posting this,but now I have to put it back to original WITHOUT dampers,so I can PRINT the parts I need,LMAO!! Life is good.I can't wait to get to melting plastic!Thanks again for sharing!
where to by these dampeners
Thanks! I was afraid I wouldn't be able to use the dampers I bought. I will have to print the parts and install. Thanks for your hard work!
Go for it!
Thank you. Excellent and clear presentation especially the firmware adjustments
You are so welcome!
Thank you so much for this video, the only one regret I have is watching it after starting adding dumper
Wow thank you for this. I ordered an Ender 3 and saw comments about any made after November being press fit. I was getting worried I wouldn't be able to use dampers at all...
I will set it up when it arrives to print the needed parts and order some dampers in the meantime. Thanks again, you earned a sub from me.
David McCahon great! I also ordered the dampers with the printer. Guess the surprise when I found out I could not remove the pulleys... :-)
Fantastic! I can actually sleep now while my printer does work! Thank you!
I wouldn't recomend that tho
Thanks for the video! I bought my printer along with the dampers and didn't know what I was going to do with them, as I got the press-fit pulleys.
Same thing happened to me! De nada!
Worked for me, thanks so much for putting the effort into this.
Happy to hear it!!
Thank you for all of your efforts. Great video and explanation. My 3D printer is silent thanks to you.
This worked fantastic for me! X and Y motors are much quieter now. Thank you for working this out and making the video.
A couple of questions:
1. Have you had motor heat issues? I bought heatsinks for my steppers, but I'm not sure whether I need to be worried about installing them or not.
2. Is there some way to mount a damper to the Z axis motor? Would that even make a difference? That is by far the loudest one now.
Liked, subscribed, and shared to our fb group. Thanks for the upload!
Thank you for the support!
Thank you so much!!! Everything worked like a charm
These comments give me the energy to keep on going! Thank you so much!
instead of changing the firmware you can just invert the cable on the board side (the connector housing can be removed and twisted)
Seriously?!
@@bendavis2115 Almost. it has no downsides. you need swich 2 wires on the connector
@@BigFootpl Any chance there's a video that shows how to do this and is easy to follow?
how where to twisted
Now that is a useful tip and so easy
You sir are a legend. Thank you!
Hunt Moorhouse thank you sir. I hope my Italian accent is enjoyable!
I really thank you very much it's really great as something you designed there ..
Thanks! Design has been a large part of my professional career 😉
Thank you for the video, I used it and worked really well for X axis but nor for Y as I have Ender3 Pro. I suggest swapping cables 1 and 4 (where 1 is the tagged one) to reverse the motor instead of changing the firmware.
i made a mount thats similar to the x mount on my ender 3 pro to fix that problem if you'd like it
Thanks for posting, I too was cursed with having these press fit wheels, up until now I have been limping with it with a piece of foam under it but its too noisy to leave running all night long, this looks a really good solution to this issue, I'm in the preparing to drop a GEN L board with some shiny bits into my Ender 3, and as the gen l is 2560 based I'll be using a tweaked to suit CR10S marlin config, this way I keep the menu layouts and features of my machines consistant,
Good to hear! Let me know how it works out with the board upgrade!
@@AMakeDesigns - Thanks - it turned out very well, I got the tmc 2130's only on the X & Y axis, and they are pretty much silent, the difference is remarkable, I used the original case for the control board carfully hot gluied a bracket in the bottom of it for the board, I did it this way so i could easily swap it out if needed and also pass some of the cables under the board and prevent the board shorting on the original metal standoffs, I cut a hole for the fan at the front and moved it from the top to the front, and cut another for the usb in the slotted area on the side, with the spi cable for the tmc's its a very close fit, a few things to watch out for are , on my ender 3 the hotbed cable wasnt long enough to reach its port on the new board as I use cable chains , I remedied this by attaching it to an external mosfet which i have mounted at the rear of the printer, another thing to watch out for is since I replaced the original display with the reprap full graphics with the SD slot, the encoder was a few milimeters further to the right than the creality one, so I had to file the hole larger for it to fit, on fitting I noticed a gap between the 2 boards that make up the reprap smart controller that would cause an issue when mounting, an easy fix is a bit of hot glue in the corners to prevent the boards bending ttowards each other when tightening the screws
Thank you! You sir are a hero!
thank you friend! you saved my day!
Wow thanks for this I tried to take off the gear on the stepper motor and Brooke it like an idiot I'm glad that there's an easy way
Sorry to hear that, and happy you solved!
ottima guida, è un upgrade che prima o poi applicherò anche sulla mia!
Grazie! ti assicuro che fa una enorme differenza!
It works like charm thanks! So quiet now!
Note that I didn't want to flash the firmware to invert X axis. I have inverted the wires of the connector of the stepper and it is the same.
It has been pointed out a few times. That is an option of course but I think flashing the firmware is needed to activate thermal runaway protection, that's why I recommend to do it that way.
@@AMakeDesigns Thanks for your answer. I'm not sure what do you mean by thermal runaway protection? Is there such a protection for stepper? Why would it be deactivated by the fact I have inverted the wires? I'm quiet new in 3D printing world so sorry for stupid question.
Maxime Richard thermal runaway protection is a firmware feature that checks if the reading of the thermistor raises when power is applied to the heater. If it does not it means something is wrong and stops the heater. This will prevent accidents (including the printer catching fire) in case the thermistor comes loose from the hot end or something goes wrong with wiring and such.
This is not a default feature in creality printers, but you can get it with an updated firmware. This is why I recommend this path instead of the wire swap.
The wire swap is perfectly ok if you know what are doing (I.e.: do it with the printer OFF... :-))
@@AMakeDesigns Thanks again. This looks a must-have feature! Now I need to find a correct tutorial to flash my printer for the first time :-)
Maxime Richard no need to go far! Check the video description for an excellent video by Teaching Tech on how to flash a bootloader. Then you can find how to edit the firmware here :
Ender 3: DIY inexpensive Bed Level Sensor (Part 2)
th-cam.com/video/l3O9CPr_U-E/w-d-xo.html
Nice walkthrough!
As an alternative to the bootloader , you could mirror te wires in the cable going to the x-axis motor. Free and probably takes the least amount of time.
You are right. It has been commented by others as well. I did not suggest it because if you don't know what you are doing you can fry your board or damage the connector.
Moreover I think that activating thermal runaway is a must.
Cheers!
do you have a site for that ?
@@wambologe587 google reverse polarity steppermotor or something like that. Im sure u will find something
@@silencer9112 i found a video thank you
Italiaanse subs maar 100% een nederlands accent! bedankt ga morgen alles installeren :)
I'm Italian, I swear! I work for a company in South Sweden and they have tainted my accent! I get mistaken for Danish or Dutch a lot! :-)) Let me know how it goes!
Thank you men my hero :D
Thanks for the video, exactly what I was looking for. I was wondering though - did you use ABS or is PLA strong enough? Thanks :-)
I used PLA with 6 walls. More than enough since all the force is taken by the screws anyway :-)
@@AMakeDesigns Thanks v much, looking forward to getting this installed :)
Great job, well explained the parts are easy to print and they fit like hell. I bought a new board 1.15 also but i dont know if i will need this anymore. I sit one meter away from the printer an i have to turn my head to see if he is still printing. Now I am looking for a good solution how to quiet the PSU fan
see if there's a noctua fan of the same size/voltage available
Hello, thank you very much for the video, it is very well explained. When I changed the y-motor and replaced it with another with an adjustable pulley, the bed did not reach the end stop, so I back to the original press-fit pulley motor. My question is, with this method, will this problem be solved? I realize that the Y end stop now is placed on the other side of the guide. Is it placed at the same distance it was before the original side? Again, thank you so much for this video and please apologize my poor english
There is a small spacer you have to print to make the limit switch trigger.
Your English is good! :-)
@A-Make Designs is this process also usable for Ender 3 Pro?
Bravo, bella guida
Stefano Palladino grazie!!
Ciao guys! Really useful video... I got the dumpers and couldn't believe that they were not compatible! Really nice job, files, video... everything. Alongside people from WASP, you became my other heroes from the Italian 3D printing community!
I have an actual doubt in regards of the bootloader: the video from Teaching Tech is really cool but doesn't mention anything about the rotation of the X axis... Do you guys know if it's already included or how I can actually add that to the new settings?
Thank you in advance for your time and for the massive help. Vi voglio bene!!!
Richard, I have another video where I go through the marlin firmware here th-cam.com/video/l3O9CPr_U-E/w-d-xo.html
It's another topic, but shows how to do it! Have fun.
Benvenuto!!
Hello what about the "official" creality BL Touch mount for the stoppper of the X ?
Hello! I had to lengthen the stop flag to install a ezabl on the left side. How can i change the x offset? Its pronting about 4-5 mm off center to the right now. Thanks for the video!!
I actually found it!! For those who have the same problem. Cura slicer under manage printer, extruder 1 and mess around with the x and y nozzle. Had to offset mine 7.5mm for x and - 2.5 for y
Thank you for such a helpful video. I now have my dampers installed and my first test print is in action with very little noise.
But I have a concern about the temperature of the stepper motors however.
The steppers use the frame they were previously on as a heat sink where as now they are just on the plastic mounts. they are quite hot to touch.
I was wondering, has anyone had any issues with overheating/Burning out?
I did not have problems with heat buildup. As far as I can tell most of the heat is radiated off of the back side of the motor. I just added some heatsinks I bought from Aliexpress at basically no price
I'm thinking of upgrading my main board, which will update the drivers to the quieter TMC drivers. Do you think the dampers are still worth installing after that upgrade?
I removed them after installing TMCs. It makes approximately the same noise with those than with dampers. The two together do not change much
What did you do with the button bits on the dampers. Did you file them off or keep them?
There are corresponding holes in the prints to accommodate those
I did this on my Ender 3 Pro, which has some slightly different dimensions, but it worked great. The X axis is virtually silent, but the Y axis still makes a bit of noise, though its much less than before. I'm assuming that's because the Y axis motor is moving the whole bed so it has a greater load on it? Is this normal? Is there anything else I may need to do?
Just make sure the screws don't touch the other half of the damper. Check the wheels and eventually adjust the eccentric spacer
Your a fucking genius bro, Thank you so much! I was so pissed when I found out that my newly purchased printer came with press fit pulleys. lol I have yet to try this but im feeling much better now that there is a solution.
Thanks
Since you had to move the x and y endstops a little bit, does this result in a slightly reduced print area? If so, how much smaller is the new usable area?
They are in the same place relatively to their respective axis. The home position is the same
Nice, did it affect the printing quality?
Yes it does. Stock steppers are poor and the noise is the result of vibration. Dampers lessen that and remove some artifacts like salmon skin
Will those pla parts hold up over time? Won't the pressure and constant motion of those motors wear then out pretty quick?
They are static parts with no movement. The screws will hold everything together nicely.
Can you send a link to the m3x25 screws you bought please? I'm having trouble finding the right ones
They are super common in Italy, you can buy them in any hardware store. I found this mix on Amazon (affiliate link). 3x30 should work as good, or with a washer or two.
kit.co/a_make_designs/tools-and-extras/m2-m3-m4-stainless-s
I have no cad or engineering experience. How could I modify this for the anycubic vyper?
In the video, it only shows you changing the direction of the x-axis stepper motor despite having changed the orientation of both the x and the y motor. Is it safe to assume that we should also be changing the configuration.h file so the #define INVERT_Y_DIR also says false? I figured I would just check to be safe ... It seems like that would make sense to change this parameter as well. Thanks in advance and I greatly appreciate the video as well as the mods to make this work!
DId you try it ?
There is no need. The Y motor is not flipped, just moved backwards ;-)
@@AMakeDesignsI just noticed when the axis came towards me :D But thanks for the awesome tutorial. I couldn't have done it without you!
I keep seeing people talk about putting heatsinks on the motors to keep them cool. I don’t have any atm but after installing the dampers on my ender 3 pro, I found the motors are pretty hot, almost to burning to the touch. Would it be ok or do I really need heatsinks for them?
Motors tend to get pretty hot. I got one on the X axis but it will collide with the carriage in the y. So far I had not had any problem with that
Lower your print speed too
my x steppermotor doesnt have any screws where you had em, theyre on the other side (silver side) should i remove those? im printing the parts meanwhile..
They should be behind the QR code sticker. The screws on the back keep the motor together, leave them there!
Awesome! But what do I do if the dampers have a hole that is too small? :/
... I'm afraid you have to get new ones... :-(
So, are Ender 3D printers manufactured using Arduino? I am a little confused since at the end of the video there's a firmware setting up in the Arduino screen.
yes they do. They use Arduino-compatible chips and Marlin, which is a community based firmware written in Arduino
Great video, just one comment: I bought my steppers dampers for my Ender 3 and thought it was just removing the steppers, put the dampers, and assemble it all back again. It would be great if, before starting disassembling to show what we need to perform this task: tools, longer screws (I didn't know), and also this set of yellow 3D printed attachments. (How can I get them)
All the info is in the video description.
The yellow parts were all printed by the printer before the mod was performed.
I used a rc car gear puller to remove the gears. They can be found on Amazon or a rc hobby shop.
If you have good mechanical skills that's very possible. Out of curiosity, how did you put them back? How did you deal with the pulley not being totally in the shaft?
@@AMakeDesigns i bought several pulleys with grub screws...to make adjustment and removal much easier...I bought the puller as Ive seen others hitting the pulley to remove it. Knew there had to be a better and easier way.
I can't find with prime anywhere, do you have a link?
You should be looking for something like this : www.amazon.com/Tarot-Metal-Gear-Puller-TL2230/dp/B00VER6DJ0
domandina...ho installato con successo il damper sull'asse y ma volevo metterci anche un dissipatore..solo che in questo modo la rotellina di calibrazione tocca il dissipatore e non permette che il fine corsa venga attivato..consigli? Grazie per la condivisione del tuo lavoro
Puoi provare a stampare un pomello più piccolo come questo : www.thingiverse.com/thing:2824131
Hi All,
Does this fix work for the Ender 3 Pro?
I saw a line on the Y-Axis part that says not Pro version and wonder why?
spencer terry not sure. I did not design it myself. I cannot think of a reason why not, I will check when I have some spare time.
With the newer Ender 3 Pro models, they are using a 40mm bar instead of the 20mm as shown in the video. As a result, a completely different motor attachment is used so this mod will not work. X axis works though!
@@morganimel That's (unfortunately) right. Do you know if there is an attachment for the Ender 3 Pro-Y-axis available?
@@mischaanwald I think this is the one I used! www.thingiverse.com/thing:3339725
I got the new board in which is 4.2.7 silent. I need to make my X stepper go in reverse but I'm run through so may steps and ways that it's all confusing. I came to a point where Arduino IDE gives an error that my sketch is too big! Why would TH3D U R2 be too big to upload???
It's because the ATMEGA 8bit chip is simply too small to hold the whole firmare. You have to get rid of some of the code to make it fit.
Anyway if you have a silent board you can try to run it without the dampers. That should work just fine
when he was doing the no dampers showcase, all I could hear was my ender 3 in the other room blocked by TWO WALLS!
:-DDDD
Will it work on an ender 3 pro?
ive got all of my parts installed. what about the endstop left over? and i dont have any way to make x dir false. Am i screwed? is there anyway to edit this in cura or on my printer itself? i know dumb question
You should have all three end stops in the printer.
To change the direction of the motor you have two options:
- Change the firmware as described in the last part of the video
- swap two wires in the cable like in this video th-cam.com/video/-iubywKkNEE/w-d-xo.html.
NOTE!!!! If you swap the wires ALWAYS power off the printer before disconnecting and connecting any cable from the board or the motor. If you don't, your board WILL BE destroyed.
A-Make Designs thanks for your response I’ll try it when I can
I Maker's friend. Thank you for this tutorial. Can you write the type of dumpers? You have a link? Thank you.
Hey mate, the link is in the video description. Happy printing!
Do you know if the x-axis fix work for the Ender 3 Pro also ?
Kasper Nielsen yes it will. The X axis should be the exact same assembly
A-Make Designs : it did. I just manage to fry my x-axis driver trying to switch polarity :facepalm: - thank you for your design though :)
@@AMakeDesigns What about for the Y axis on the newer models. They started using 40mm bars like on the feet instead of 20mm for the Y axis now
@@Lynetk ops... sorry for that... I know someone is flipping the wires in the connector. I prefer the firmware way, now you know why :-(
Hey @@destro4444 this will not work for the Y axis on the newer models. There is a completely different motor attachment since the bars are 40mm as you mentioned.
Will your parts work on a Ender 3 Pro as well?
The X axis will, the y will not due to the double thickness of the profile
question due you need to load a boot loader before you can make changes to firmware. thank you for your time. jerry
Yes you do. There is a link to an excellent video to teaching tech. There are so many tutorials to do it that I decided not to do one myself.
The only things you need are an arduino board and some DuPont jumper cables. Be careful not to short the 5v though... I did it... Not fun.
@@AMakeDesigns Thank
i have been trying to do this so i can install my bl touch. Problem i'm having is it reports programmer not responding. i have watch every video i can find on this. everyone states the same procedure. i get all the light on the arduino board but no good results. thank you for your time. jerry
Jerry, you should check the board version. I read somewhere that 1.1.4 needs a different driver for the communication chip.
Check this link for the usb driver : www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/ch340-drivers-th3d-uno-creality-v1-1-4-board/?
If I have to reverse direction for X in marlin firmware do I not have to do the same for Y
No because you are not going to flip the Y motor, just move it backwards.
Thx for reply all good now great vid
Is it 100% necessary to implement the bootlegger? I was considering going through this damper process from the video but the bootlegger is a turn off. The sound is annoying but this amount of work might not be worth it
If you know how to do it, you can swap wires in the motor connector to reverse the motor direction.
haha printer go *BRRRR* to haha printer go brrr
I'm stuck at modifying the Configuration_backend.h file. Switching X axis motor direction just doesn't take effect. There are no errors during upload and modifying anything in Configuration.h works fine. Does anyone have the same issue??
Do you have to have a boot loader to go in and change the files?
Yes you do, at least in my version of the ender. I'm not sure if they added it in more recent versions
Instead of messing with firmware, you could change the polarity of the wires, just look for an example for the ender 3
Where do I put the Y-stop after adding the dampers?
You put it back using the printed spacer. It's in the video, check it out!
How does the motors not fall off without using a nut to tighten the bolt? How can a washer on the other side lock it in place?
The damper has two through holes and two threaded holes. The through holes go towards the motor which has threads, while the threaded go towards the spacer.
@@AMakeDesigns Aaaah i see them! How can I have not seen those haha. Thank you!!
Small threads are treacherous! :-)
it doesn't work with ezabl. since it hits the motor before it gets to the stop. l did make the stop flag longer but now the ezabl is off centered to the right by 4mm when homed and there's no way to change it in the config. :/ only way it would work if the motor is a little offset to the left
I'm not sure I got you. I put my sensor on the right of the extruder and have no problem with that.
Finalmente riuscirò a montare quei dannati dumper.. grazie sei un mito.. se mi dici che hai trovato la soluzione per il piatto concavo ti faccio una statua.. ( la mia ha piatto, vetro e supporto del bed concavi vedi tu che sfiga)
Comunque ottimo lavoro.
Grazie Gabriele! Per la concavità prova a guardare qua. Si fa senza comprare nulla: Warped Bed: printable solution for a perfect first layer!
th-cam.com/video/0FjC4mHGeRI/w-d-xo.html
Poi c'è il piatto in acciaio flessibile se proprio vuoi strafare :-)
@@AMakeDesigns però se è concavo anche con il pannello in acciaio, la situazione non cambia.. sto pensando di farni fare un'altro piano 23.5*23,5 e poi metterci la parte termi a sotto..hai qualche guida tua in merito? 😁
Ah sisi l'ho visto quel video..
Se stampi il nido d'ape sul piano di alluminio, la concavità si riempie. Il mio aveva un buca al centro e così ho risolto
@@AMakeDesigns ma si riesce poi a scaldare il piatto? Hai l' stl per il nido?
I downloaded the file that is linked here, i dont have the holes for the strange buttons! Could you help me, whats the problem here?
Or didnt you print them? Can i take a cordless drill to make them?
For the Y axis I drilled them as well
How to invert the axis in klipper
Wait. So do you need an Arduino board to modify the firmware?
Either that or a specific device called USBasp.
Shouldnt you invert both X and Y axis?
No, because X is flipped while Y is just moved backwards
sorry i know this is not about your video but i have the opportunity to buy a new anet a4 pro for $35 is it worth it. thank you for your time. jerry
I'm sorry but I don't have experience in this particular printer. 35$ is so cheap I would go for it! Even if it is junk, reusing it for spare parts will be still a good bargain! :-)
where did you get the screws?
Local hardware store. They are very common in Italy.
@@AMakeDesigns thank you for your response! I am in Canada and it is difficult to find metric hardware.
hi, will this work on ender 3 pro, thanks
It's ok for the x-axis but not for the y. You can probably find some design on thingiverse for that.
How come you don’t have to invert the Y axis. Because isn’t that motor facing the wrong way now?
The y axis is just moved backwards fro the original position 😉
I have successfully removed the pressed on pulleys and fitted ones with grub screws that allow the belt to be aligned. What is needed is a slotted plate on a support box. I printed these in solid PLA then punched the shaft out of the pulley.
Hey mate, can you elaborate more on how you removed the pulley? It sounds like you didn't use any special tools other than printable parts.
Do you need cooling on these motors? Since they not have the frame as heatsink anymore? Is it necessary, or maybe just for long prints >10h?
I didn't really see a problem there. Maybe if you print crazy fast. I never checked but never had a problem either
there are pulley removers on thingiverse such as
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3593964
This is the simplest way forward. But the y-axis stepper will foul the table at the auto home position with the damper fitted. I have moved the limit switch which fixes the auto home issue but the y-axis motor now stalls at the opposite end when presenting at the end of the print. Either the table needs to be trimmed or a offset bracket will be needed.
I think a box over the motor and a slotted plate is simpler. Then the shaft can be punched out of the pulley.
Where do you find the firmware?
There is a link in the description with the video tutorial and all the links. I got it from the TH3D website
Why does the X direction have to be inverted?
because the motor has been flipped so it will have to spin in the opposite direction to move the carriage in the same way as before.
@@AMakeDesigns I didn't see it the first time I watched it. I see it now. Thanks.
How do I open arduino
So the Z axis motor doesnt get a damper?
Not in my case. The z axis is moving very seldom in comparison to the other two, with the exclusion of homing.
Practically nothing stops you from putting one for the X and E.
@@AMakeDesigns makes sense! Ty!!
Actually for the y-axis one just needs an offset bracket to move the motor mount over by the thickness of the damper. No need to move the limit switch. For the x-axis the pulley should be removed and replaced with one that is fixed with grub screws. In this approach there is no need to be editing the firmware.
You are right, there are other ways. I like this one because it does not require high mechanical skills or other materials.
The y-axis is not my design, I take no credits for the good or the bad! :-)
I recommend to update the firmware anyway due to the missing safety features in the stock one.
@@AMakeDesigns Thank you so much for your reply and sharing your solution.
What is the offset bracket ?
Oh, so I have to buy a bootloader _just_ so I can swap the X-Axis direction..?
...or one replaces the mainboard with a board that has the TMC2209 stepper driver IC's.
Example: "BigTreeTech SKR MiniE3 V2.0" - It'll give you completely silent stepper motors without any dampeners or smoothers. On top of that, the board has much more memory so one can activate more advanced features in the firmware which the original board isn't capable of. Best of all: It's really cheap too.
Edit: The E3 variant of the SKR board is a perfect drop-in replacement designed for the Ender 3 series. No modifications needed. Unscrew the old board, screw in the new. connect everything. You're done.
All correct except... Look at the video date. It did not exist 1.5 years ago ;-)
@@AMakeDesigns Well... I know. Which is why I added the comment for anyone who might hit this now.