I watch so many repair videos for capacitors and after doing the same kind of repairs for 5+ years, I find it astounding how many people seeking to preserve electronics with potentially leaking electrolytic caps don't replace with ceramic or tantalum ones. Replacing like for like with electrolytic is just resetting the clock on the time bomb. The arguments I've heard are "well, I used what I already had" or "they're cheaper" or "the solid ones are less tolerant" but after using tantalums and ceramics for many years I have never ever experienced any issues with them. And if they do fail they simply short - rather than destroy half of the board it sits on. So anyway, thanks for the guide, as I'm about to recap one of these, but maybe take this suggestion on board - try some ceramics - which are even better because they're not polarity sensitive!
You’re suggesting a 47uF MLCC rated at 25V instead of an electrolytic? Most of those are a few orders of magnitude more expensive, for no real gain, and I absolutely don’t buy the “time bomb” argument - unless you magically dig up some early 90s electrolytics - things have improved. Stick with modern electrolytics and you’ve already improved things to last more than an additional 30 years - no need to confuse the next guy with different parts. Also - replacing 1 to 1 with ceramics isn’t always a good idea. Different ESR might introduce noise, create oscillations etc - a lot of the time it is better to stick with the type the device has been thoroughly tested with to begin with. Who knows - maybe I would’ve thrown in a ceramic if that’s all I had, but I’m sure this won’t cause trouble either.
When I dissembled mine a couples of years ago I think I managed to brake one of the stabilizers on the spacebar. As those is also made of brittle plastic. Think it can be good to mention that. Thanks for a good video!
Thank you. Yes, it's not a very durable design. Same for most other larger keys - they really should've put a metal bracket to hold them but I guess it's another cost cutting measure.
The only thing I can tell you is that they require a high temperature to remove the capacitors, the acid damages the tin and makes it very difficult to remove. I repaired the keyboard, but many keys on the keyboard matrix do not work and it is really a very fragile keyboard, I have to open it again.
Also have to admit I still have a key with issues - one of the spring holders broke in half so I’ll have to take it apart another time too. Super fragile.
The M2 was a low-cost version of the Model M which shipped with the original PS/1. Yes, a low-cost Model M...if you consider that the original Model M was a cheaper to make successor of the Model F.
It certainly did the job, though I do remember killing one at some point in the 90s, probably by removing keycaps and mangling the spring. Cheaper at the cost of repairability.
Probably - but if the goal is to make a PS/2 keyboard work with USB it's probably easier to do the translation from PS/2 to USB HID than rewiring the keyboard scanning matrix.
Good question. It has very distinct spring mechanism providing the switching.. but on the other hand it’s still a membrane keyboard. Both and neither I guess.
@@AndersNielsenAA Model Ms used a membrane too and folks would usually consider that mechanical (due to the buckling spring). I'd consider it mechanical.
@@colinstu Usually the distinction is made between individual switches vs a membrane but it doesn’t really make much sense as a measure of “quality”. You can find plenty of horrible mechanical switches and some great rubber dome keyboards too - I can’t handle 20 minutes of typing on a C64 keyboard no matter how “mechanical” it is ⌨️ 😆
I love mechanical keyboards and I'm a big fan of the old Model M. I was surprised to find out they had membranes under the buckling springs. I feel like a Coca-Cola fanatic who finds out they've been drinking Pepsi all this time without realising. All I can say is they _feel_ mechanical. I guess that's the main thing, right?
I watch so many repair videos for capacitors and after doing the same kind of repairs for 5+ years, I find it astounding how many people seeking to preserve electronics with potentially leaking electrolytic caps don't replace with ceramic or tantalum ones. Replacing like for like with electrolytic is just resetting the clock on the time bomb. The arguments I've heard are "well, I used what I already had" or "they're cheaper" or "the solid ones are less tolerant" but after using tantalums and ceramics for many years I have never ever experienced any issues with them. And if they do fail they simply short - rather than destroy half of the board it sits on. So anyway, thanks for the guide, as I'm about to recap one of these, but maybe take this suggestion on board - try some ceramics - which are even better because they're not polarity sensitive!
You’re suggesting a 47uF MLCC rated at 25V instead of an electrolytic?
Most of those are a few orders of magnitude more expensive, for no real gain, and I absolutely don’t buy the “time bomb” argument - unless you magically dig up some early 90s electrolytics - things have improved.
Stick with modern electrolytics and you’ve already improved things to last more than an additional 30 years - no need to confuse the next guy with different parts.
Also - replacing 1 to 1 with ceramics isn’t always a good idea. Different ESR might introduce noise, create oscillations etc - a lot of the time it is better to stick with the type the device has been thoroughly tested with to begin with.
Who knows - maybe I would’ve thrown in a ceramic if that’s all I had, but I’m sure this won’t cause trouble either.
When I dissembled mine a couples of years ago I think I managed to brake one of the stabilizers on the spacebar. As those is also made of brittle plastic.
Think it can be good to mention that.
Thanks for a good video!
Thank you. Yes, it's not a very durable design. Same for most other larger keys - they really should've put a metal bracket to hold them but I guess it's another cost cutting measure.
@@AndersNielsenAA they sold it for a really outrageous price.
The only thing I can tell you is that they require a high temperature to remove the capacitors, the acid damages the tin and makes it very difficult to remove. I repaired the keyboard, but many keys on the keyboard matrix do not work and it is really a very fragile keyboard, I have to open it again.
Also have to admit I still have a key with issues - one of the spring holders broke in half so I’ll have to take it apart another time too.
Super fragile.
The M2 was a low-cost version of the Model M which shipped with the original PS/1. Yes, a low-cost Model M...if you consider that the original Model M was a cheaper to make successor of the Model F.
It certainly did the job, though I do remember killing one at some point in the 90s, probably by removing keycaps and mangling the spring. Cheaper at the cost of repairability.
can you replace the microcontroller with a teensy? i have never seen a mod before.
Probably - but if the goal is to make a PS/2 keyboard work with USB it's probably easier to do the translation from PS/2 to USB HID than rewiring the keyboard scanning matrix.
Would this count as a mechnical keyboard?
Good question. It has very distinct spring mechanism providing the switching.. but on the other hand it’s still a membrane keyboard. Both and neither I guess.
@@AndersNielsenAA Model Ms used a membrane too and folks would usually consider that mechanical (due to the buckling spring). I'd consider it mechanical.
@@colinstu Usually the distinction is made between individual switches vs a membrane but it doesn’t really make much sense as a measure of “quality”.
You can find plenty of horrible mechanical switches and some great rubber dome keyboards too - I can’t handle 20 minutes of typing on a C64 keyboard no matter how “mechanical” it is ⌨️ 😆
I love mechanical keyboards and I'm a big fan of the old Model M. I was surprised to find out they had membranes under the buckling springs. I feel like a Coca-Cola fanatic who finds out they've been drinking Pepsi all this time without realising. All I can say is they _feel_ mechanical. I guess that's the main thing, right?