Been reloading for years but recently started casting. This was the exact answer to the problem I've been having. Thanks to you for the help, I was finally able to have my first batch of solid keepers!
Hey Elvis! How could anyone not subscribe to your channel? I've learned a lot especially the powder coating videos. Thank you for taking the time to explain everything and keep up the great videos!
That explains why i had better result with soap and water and the mold took the smoke much easier. I was using that same brake cleaner and was having awful results. Thanks for all of your help over the years. I just subscribed today after watching for 3 years.
Just by way of an FYI, toluene (one of the ingredients in the 'good' brake cleaner), is a highly effective solvent but it is easily absorbed through the skin. Haven't been able to purchase straight toluene individually (commercial only) for decades because of this. So, wear gloves when using it or anything else with that as a component. Also Dawn brand soap is best. Absorbs oils well and rinses easily. Its what they use to get oil off of waterfowl that have been into an oil spill. Good video. Good information. Thanks.
Dude your great and psychic too. I just started casting and just so happen to get the bright idea to clean my brand new mold and guess what I used. And I got a lot of wrinkles and was wondering what I did or was doing. Great job. Glad to learn from your wisdom.
ever since I worked in a paint & body shop in the 80's I've used lacquer thinner to clean almost everything, test on some materials first, cleans well and leaves no residue, even great for cuts on your hands
Soap(dawn blue) and water(hot) 1st, then acetone let stand to dry then a good smoking and off to the races done it with all my molds casts great bullets everytime! Mold lube, I've found the stihl brand 2cyxle oil to be the best, small drop on each pin, wipe down the contact side of the sprue plate with an oily (stihl oily) rags and that's kept me casting flawless bullets every time
I've been cleaning my new molds with brake cleaner, after watching this video, I ran down to my dungeon to check what kind I have, it turns out I had the right kind all along! Excellent video Elvis! Keep up the great work.
I start with very hot water and soap then go back with alcohol then rinse throughly with distilled water it seems to work really good for me. Like your videos Elvis they are very helpful.
I know nobody thinks much about washing their hands in gas or mineral spirits but I was a bridge painter for 37 years and in the industry we call that an acute exposure. That toluene is a major cancer causer and that acetone isn't much better. Best to wear gloves when using solvents.
I cleaned my new lee molds 2 times and smoked them. Now the bullets look better but not as good as my old lyman molds. I'll clean them again with acetone instead of alcohol. Thanks for the info.
Yes sir. I always look for acetone in it. I have used starting fluid a couple times as well. Always great info that will help a lot of people for sure. Good stuff my friend
Hi there, with casting bullets & cleaning your mold. If your not sure use rubbing alcohol, that will clean all oil residue from the mold. Will not have no more wrinkled bullets. That's what I always clean mine with, easier is not alway the best way. I do like watching your videos, always so informative THANK YOU for always helping us.
Good video here, I knew this and keep both kinds. They both have their uses. Just not in casting. I use Dawn dish soap unscented. Seems to work great. But acetone works also. Just make sure you relube your sprue cutter.
Hi Elvis 😊 A coincidence about cleansing molds. I washed a new Lee mold today that i recived in the mail from my local dealer. I cleaned it very thorough and i looked forward to cast with it this evening. When i was finished i saw something that did'nt look right.. The cavities was looking a bit small to be a .356" mold and it measured .330 despite it's marked 356-124😮 And that was the last 2 cavity Lee tumble lube design 356-124 mold they had and i could fine here inn my part of the woods,so i ordered a new 6-cav mold (same bullet) from the same dealer..the last one! Here inn Norway it's a drought on Lee casting and loading suplies thanks to the the situation in the world these days. I hope that mold is in spec.. The lightning can't hit twice at the same spot i guess😆 Thank you for another educational video👍 I find them very informative and have learned a lot from watching over the years😊
I guess that's why my Dad taught me to use Acetone to clean a mold after it's been oily from storage. i use CRC/Brakleen in the GREEN can. And I do clean with DAWN & Hot Water before I spray with brake cleaner. It will remove the last bit of any oil & water from the DAWN clean.
Acetone while a great cleaner / solvent can very easily transport other things though your skin. ALWAYS wear gloves with Acetone! I generally use soap and water then denatured alcohol.
Good tips for new casters, Elvis 👍🇺🇸 As my video from a few weeks ago shows, if you properly prepare a new mold, you can have the first bullets perfect. Keep up the great work
That is some good information. When I first started I used the wrong brake cleaner and I was getting wrinkled bullets and your right it was driving my crazy.
After I clean my mold, to get well formed bullets with no wrinkles, I heat the mold with a propane torch and will reheat after each twenty pours. I don't know if that is ok with aluminum molds, but with my Lyman molds, it works very well. It seems that getting the mold to the proper temperature is needed to get non-wrinkled bullets.
i normally burn my mold cavities out with the flame of a stick candle. i take my time over the tip of the flame and when the cavity is fully blackened with carbon not only are all the chemicals burned out but it's now coated with mold release.
As a somewhat woodworker I use a acetone dampened rag to do the final wipe down before a finish is applied. It dries fast and leaves no residue. I always have it around. Now I'm going to try it on my molds. Thanks!
I clean mine with acetone allow to dry then carbon soot the actual round portion of the molds with a bic lighter held about 2 inches below the mold half on both sides its done when both sides a covered in carbon
Hey Elvis I avoid brake cleaner because I have had issues before. I just use acetone it’s cheaper and last a long time. Plus I use it for other things.
Another option I like is to use MAF sensor cleaner. It isn't as strong a solvent, but gets the job done & leaves behind no residue. It won't dissolve dirt and such, but will remove any grease, oil and other solvents in a hurry. Brake cleaner will certainly strip everything, so make sure it is all well conditioned before use. I like to use an anti sieze on a hot mold instead of oil for that.
Really good advice. many people make that mistake as you said, sure beats what I was doing, a Monkey skull filled with beads on the end of a stick, shaking it at the mold trying to cast out the evil spirits..-Dave
always buy flammable brake cleaner when it dries there will be no residue left at all if you spray your hand and let it dry and youre hand is not chalky white it will not work for anything but cleaning brake parts
good tip on the diff brake cleaners, I was wondering about the Lee recommendation to soot up the molds. Yours don't appear all black so do you use smoke soot or what do you use if anything as a parting agent in the molds?
Had to pause the vid and run out to the garage to check my brake cleaner. I've had pretty good luck with it. It's Auto Zone brand, mostly toluene, flammable, non-chlorinated. Dries very quickly though not as fast as acetone. May switch it out for an acetone-based cleaner after seeing this.
Skip brakleen all together get starting fluid instead no residue however there are some that do have a top engine lubricant added into them but they’re not as common as the can without. Straight either the way to go
Sta-vil carb/choke cleaner is what I used on non painted metals. All others CLP brake cleaner. Edit: grabbed can and if says "Acetone, Toluene, & Propane."
I was told that you need to clean them and let them set in cleaner for 24hrs. Trying to get a timeline in how long and for Length of time the molds need to be cleaned. Can you help me with thia please trying to get accurate information here lol
Aside from helping to make better bullets the use of the spray on new brakes and their pads makes me think that it's not good for a car either. When using the "CRC" spray which is always found in my local autostore. Thanks from a diy auto repair guy and a shooter.
Avoid the beauty product acetone, some brands contains oil-like substances to spare the skin. Hardware store, or auto part store acetone is pure. You can also buy Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone (MEK), Toluene, and Methanol (methyl alcohol / wood alcohol) at hardware stores, or car paint stores. The tri-chloro-ethylene brake cleaner probably contains traces of oil to prevent the brake discs start rusting within seconds after cleaning.
Great tip there thank you. The beauty products acetone that I actually have is pure. But I really use it as a bottle that I fill from the gallon jug. Great point!!!
Great video, but something you missed that MUST be emphasized - Chlorinated brake cleaner containing tetrachloroethylene will, on exposure to high temperatures (above 500 °F (260 °C)) or strong UV light, decompose into phosgene and hydrogen chloride. These are poisonous gases that can absolutely kill you. I don’t even keep chlorinated brake cleaner around anymore. Welders sometimes make this mistake, in an effort to clean auto parts quickly will hit them with brake cleaner, sometimes chlorinated, then start welding before the parts are completely dry. Very dangerous to your lungs.
Extreme care around brake cleaner and heat. Tectrachlorethelene turns into phosgene gas whenever heated to around 600 degrees Fahrenheit. In world war 1 they called this mustard gas. You do not want to breath this.
Tetrachloroethylene when exposed to temperatures over 350 degrees I believe can cause serious health issues. Never weld or heat parts that have been sprayed with this.
The difference comes down to "CHLORINATED" AND "NON-CHLORINATED" brake parts cleaner. For cleaning molds, the "NON-CHLORINATED" is better. For cleaning brake parts, grime, etc., the "CHLORINATED" stuff is stronger. In some states, i.e., states like CA that want to control EVERYTHING, all we're ALLOWED to use is "NON-CHLORINATED". They don't even sell the "CHLORINATED". Again, "NON-CHLORINATED" is best for cleaning MOLDS, "NON-CHLORINATED" is best for cleaning grimy CAR PARTS.
I know all of us would love to spend the day with you at your shop... unlimited tips.
I just can’t get all of you in the shop at the same time🤪😂😝😁🤣👍👍👍👍👍
@@elvisammo you gonna need a bigger boat ( shop )... jaws...lol
Unlimited boolets 😝.
Start taking appointments!!! A day with elvis. I'm sure you would have tons of takers!! Thx for the tips
Elvis Ammo at the Maxwell House Estate. Let me know when Reservations are available👍
4 years later into casting.... Im still learning lots here and getting better. Thanks brother for all the help every step of the way
Thank you Eagle Eye!!!
Been reloading for years but recently started casting. This was the exact answer to the problem I've been having. Thanks to you for the help, I was finally able to have my first batch of solid keepers!
Thanks for letting us know we could help!!! 👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Hey Elvis! How could anyone not subscribe to your channel? I've learned a lot especially the powder coating videos. Thank you for taking the time to explain everything and keep up the great videos!
Brilliant tip. I have been reloading for 13 years and and I might start casting some 45-70 and some slugs. Thanks for all your videos! 👍🏻
That explains why i had better result with soap and water and the mold took the smoke much easier. I was using that same brake cleaner and was having awful results. Thanks for all of your help over the years. I just subscribed today after watching for 3 years.
Dude…
Thanks for the video. Miss you brother.
Just by way of an FYI, toluene (one of the ingredients in the 'good' brake cleaner), is a highly effective solvent but it is easily absorbed through the skin. Haven't been able to purchase straight toluene individually (commercial only) for decades because of this. So, wear gloves when using it or anything else with that as a component.
Also Dawn brand soap is best. Absorbs oils well and rinses easily. Its what they use to get oil off of waterfowl that have been into an oil spill.
Good video. Good information. Thanks.
Thanks for the tip. And yes Dawn is definitely my favorite for sure by a long shot
I have had great luck with white gas . The stuff used in Coleman Stoves. Do outside in yard only.
Dude your great and psychic too. I just started casting and just so happen to get the bright idea to clean my brand new mold and guess what I used. And I got a lot
of wrinkles and was wondering what I did or was doing. Great job. Glad to learn from your wisdom.
ever since I worked in a paint & body shop in the 80's I've used lacquer thinner to clean almost everything, test on some materials first, cleans well and leaves no residue, even great for cuts on your hands
Never knew that. Thanks man you saved me some grief...
Soap(dawn blue) and water(hot) 1st, then acetone let stand to dry then a good smoking and off to the races done it with all my molds casts great bullets everytime! Mold lube, I've found the stihl brand 2cyxle oil to be the best, small drop on each pin, wipe down the contact side of the sprue plate with an oily (stihl oily) rags and that's kept me casting flawless bullets every time
I've been cleaning my new molds with brake cleaner, after watching this video, I ran down to my dungeon to check what kind I have, it turns out I had the right kind all along! Excellent video Elvis! Keep up the great work.
I start with very hot water and soap then go back with alcohol then rinse throughly with distilled water it seems to work really good for me. Like your videos Elvis they are very helpful.
👍👍
I learned something "AGAIN" Elvis...............Info like this is why we 💖love💖 ya brother. Keep it coming!!! 🍺🥨🍺
I'm glad you made this video before my molds got here thanks man
Yep.... 👍👍👍
Honesty appreciate these videos, it’s like taking a class on reloading. Easy to understand in simple terms. Thank you!
👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I know nobody thinks much about washing their hands in gas or mineral spirits but I was a bridge painter for 37 years and in the industry we call that an acute exposure. That toluene is a major cancer causer and that acetone isn't much better. Best to wear gloves when using solvents.
Just got done casting up 250 RCBS 38 150 SWC projectiles. And everything went extremely smoothly thanks Elvis. Idk what I would do without your videos
I'm just getting into the hobby.
Your channel is extremely informative. Thanks for passing along your knowledge.
Non chlorinated! Working in the auto industry we hate that chlorinated crap. Good videos!
👍👍thanks Elvis for the info
I cleaned my new lee molds 2 times and smoked them. Now the bullets look better but not as good as my old lyman molds. I'll clean them again with acetone instead of alcohol. Thanks for the info.
Yes sir. I always look for acetone in it. I have used starting fluid a couple times as well. Always great info that will help a lot of people for sure. Good stuff my friend
Thankya my punisher! 😎😁🇺🇸👍👍
Hi there, with casting bullets & cleaning your mold. If your not sure use rubbing alcohol, that will clean all oil residue from the mold. Will not have no more wrinkled bullets. That's what I always clean mine with, easier is not alway the best way.
I do like watching your videos, always so informative THANK YOU for always helping us.
Thanks
Good video here, I knew this and keep both kinds. They both have their uses. Just not in casting. I use Dawn dish soap unscented. Seems to work great. But acetone works also. Just make sure you relube your sprue cutter.
👍👍👍👍
Hi Elvis 😊
A coincidence about cleansing molds.
I washed a new Lee mold today that i recived in the mail from my local dealer.
I cleaned it very thorough and i looked forward to cast with it this evening.
When i was finished i saw something that did'nt look right..
The cavities was looking a bit small to be a .356" mold and it measured .330
despite it's marked 356-124😮
And that was the last 2 cavity Lee tumble lube design 356-124 mold they had and i could fine here inn my part of the woods,so i ordered a new 6-cav mold (same bullet) from the same dealer..the last one!
Here inn Norway it's a drought on Lee casting and loading suplies thanks to the the situation in the world these days.
I hope that mold is in spec..
The lightning can't hit twice at the same spot i guess😆
Thank you for another educational video👍
I find them very informative and have learned a lot from watching over the years😊
Hopefully lightning doesn’t strike twice! 👍👍👍👍 thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks for the tip Elvis thanks for the video.
I guess that's why my Dad taught me to use Acetone to clean a mold after it's been oily from storage.
i use CRC/Brakleen in the GREEN can.
And I do clean with DAWN & Hot Water before I spray with brake cleaner. It will remove the last bit of any oil & water from the DAWN clean.
👍👍👍
Love your videos, Elvis!!! Question: which is the better mold lube, 2-cycle oil or Anti seize? Please keep the videos coming. :):):)
That was a big help, I will check which brake cleaner I have !
That makes sense. Thanks Elvis. Great video
Can also use electronic tuner cleaner.
Acetone while a great cleaner / solvent can very easily transport other things though your skin. ALWAYS wear gloves with Acetone! I generally use soap and water then denatured alcohol.
Good tips for new casters, Elvis 👍🇺🇸
As my video from a few weeks ago shows, if you properly prepare a new mold, you can have the first bullets perfect. Keep up the great work
I’ll check it out!
That is some good information. When I first started I used the wrong brake cleaner and I was getting wrinkled bullets and your right it was driving my crazy.
Thanks for the tip Elvis
After I clean my mold, to get well formed bullets with no wrinkles, I heat the mold with a propane torch and will reheat after each twenty pours. I don't know if that is ok with aluminum molds, but with my Lyman molds, it works very well. It seems that getting the mold to the proper temperature is needed to get non-wrinkled bullets.
i normally burn my mold cavities out with the flame of a stick candle. i take my time over the tip of the flame and when the cavity is fully blackened with carbon not only are all the chemicals burned out but it's now coated with mold release.
As a somewhat woodworker I use a acetone dampened rag to do the final wipe down before a finish is applied. It dries fast and leaves no residue. I always have it around. Now I'm going to try it on my molds. Thanks!
I clean mine with acetone allow to dry then carbon soot the actual round portion of the molds with a bic lighter held about 2 inches below the mold half on both sides its done when both sides a covered in carbon
I used berryman carb cleaner liquid (not spray) for my first time casting just last week then smoked it worked good.
Most will say non chlorinated, thats the one you want. Don't use chlorinated on moulds
Hey Elvis I avoid brake cleaner because I have had issues before. I just use acetone it’s cheaper and last a long time. Plus I use it for other things.
Can’t go wrong!!! 👍
Very helpful
Thanks again !
Another option I like is to use MAF sensor cleaner. It isn't as strong a solvent, but gets the job done & leaves behind no residue.
It won't dissolve dirt and such, but will remove any grease, oil and other solvents in a hurry.
Brake cleaner will certainly strip everything, so make sure it is all well conditioned before use. I like to use an anti sieze on a hot mold instead of oil for that.
I start with alcohol (bourbon). After a few shots, I clean my mold with acetone and a q-tip.
Do you smoke your molds?
I ran both of my 6 cavity moulds with pure lead. they come out perfect every time
I have cleaned the crud outta my Lee 6 cavity and still get many many wrinkles
Nice video again 👍🖖
All I have ever used plain ol soap and extremely hot water, not boiling but pretty close to it, never had an issue
A clean mold is a happy mold
😁
I usually use hot water and dish soap and alcohol .
Really good advice. many people make that mistake as you said, sure beats what I was doing, a Monkey skull filled with beads on the end of a stick, shaking it at the mold trying to cast out the evil spirits..-Dave
☠️👍👍👍👍👍😂🤪
Thor's Axe you have me ROFL!
Do you do vodo ?
always buy flammable brake cleaner when it dries there will be no residue left at all if you spray your hand and let it dry and youre hand is not chalky white it will not work for anything but cleaning brake parts
Thanks for the tip. That's awesome....
thats good advice
i never cleaned my mold and i had some wrinkly bullets at first about 20. then been good ever since..
good tip on the diff brake cleaners, I was wondering about the Lee recommendation to soot up the molds. Yours don't appear all black so do you use smoke soot or what do you use if anything as a parting agent in the molds?
Nothing!! 👍
Had to pause the vid and run out to the garage to check my brake cleaner. I've had pretty good luck with it. It's Auto Zone brand, mostly toluene, flammable, non-chlorinated. Dries very quickly though not as fast as acetone. May switch it out for an acetone-based cleaner after seeing this.
👍
I’m having trouble with oxidation any answers on that @ Elvis ammo ?
? So what if someone uses the crc brake cleaner we just reclean with acetone and toluene?
What is acetone and how do I use it
Elvis
Just a thought but would it be possible to clean resizing dies with Asatone .
i use only a pure cleaning alcohol .flameable but not very unhealthy for the user, if used correct
Good info. Ty. What other colors from Eastwood do you like that is not light blue
Eastwood dark green I like
Be careful using a brass brush on any mold material softer than iron, brass will scratch aluminum molds
Skip brakleen all together get starting fluid instead no residue however there are some that do have a top engine lubricant added into them but they’re not as common as the can without. Straight either the way to go
Sta-vil carb/choke cleaner is what I used on non painted metals. All others CLP brake cleaner.
Edit: grabbed can and if says "Acetone, Toluene, & Propane."
Most brake cleaners will state whether it is chlorinated or non- chlorinated on the front of the label!
Now I finally found a way to straighten my wife's wrinkley behind.😄
👀☠️
Haahaha 😂
Now, what to do about your little wrinkle.
Yeeeeet
Now your can do your wrinkled balls
Are you making a channel on rumble?
Acetone, toluene, and methanol are all flammable.
I was told that you need to clean them and let them set in cleaner for 24hrs. Trying to get a timeline in how long and for Length of time the molds need to be cleaned. Can you help me with thia please trying to get accurate information here lol
Acetone even.
Wrinkles in the cast bullets is usually caused by a cold mold.
Aside from helping to make better bullets the use of the spray on new brakes and their pads makes me think that it's not good for a car either. When using the "CRC" spray which is always found in my local autostore. Thanks from a diy auto repair guy and a shooter.
Denatured Alcohol Works super. If you know somebody with a still and make moonshine they can get you a great alcohol product.l
Mmmm let me think if I know somebody like that 😁😜😎
Avoid the beauty product acetone, some brands contains oil-like substances to spare the skin.
Hardware store, or auto part store acetone is pure. You can also buy Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone (MEK), Toluene, and Methanol (methyl alcohol / wood alcohol) at hardware stores, or car paint stores.
The tri-chloro-ethylene brake cleaner probably contains traces of oil to prevent the brake discs start rusting within seconds after cleaning.
Great tip there thank you. The beauty products acetone that I actually have is pure. But I really use it as a bottle that I fill from the gallon jug. Great point!!!
Great video, but something you missed that MUST be emphasized - Chlorinated brake cleaner containing tetrachloroethylene will, on exposure to high temperatures (above 500 °F (260 °C)) or strong UV light, decompose into phosgene and hydrogen chloride. These are poisonous gases that can absolutely kill you. I don’t even keep chlorinated brake cleaner around anymore. Welders sometimes make this mistake, in an effort to clean auto parts quickly will hit them with brake cleaner, sometimes chlorinated, then start welding before the parts are completely dry. Very dangerous to your lungs.
What the hell, who would down vote an Elvis Ammo video?
Extreme care around brake cleaner and heat. Tectrachlorethelene turns into phosgene gas whenever heated to around 600 degrees Fahrenheit. In world war 1 they called this mustard gas. You do not want to breath this.
Non chlorinated brake cleaner is what you want.
Tetrachloroethylene when exposed to temperatures over 350 degrees I believe can cause serious health issues. Never weld or heat parts that have been sprayed with this.
Green can of brakekleen is the ticket you want
👍🏻
Pretty sure if I asked you for the time, you'd tell me how to build a clock!
Brass on aluminum?! 😱
no fun if it doesn't burn..... who hasn't sprayed starter fluid on an ant nest....
😁
I’ve sprayed the crap outta in-ground yellow jacket nests...knocked them out 😃😃😃
The difference comes down to "CHLORINATED" AND "NON-CHLORINATED" brake parts cleaner. For cleaning molds, the "NON-CHLORINATED" is better. For cleaning brake parts, grime, etc., the "CHLORINATED" stuff is stronger. In some states, i.e., states like CA that want to control EVERYTHING, all we're ALLOWED to use is "NON-CHLORINATED". They don't even sell the "CHLORINATED". Again, "NON-CHLORINATED" is best for cleaning MOLDS, "NON-CHLORINATED" is best for cleaning grimy CAR PARTS.
CA. The state is always right... 😂🤪☠️☠️☠️🇺🇸🇺🇸👍👍😁
Finally! Thank you!
👍👍👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸💪
Try not to get brake cleaner on your skin, especially the ones with toluene.
Yes, mommy. Lol
I hope you are getting paid by google. if not, you should sue their asses. commercial interruptions every other minute is really pissing me off
If you want to get rid of wrinkles get a younger woman
A new amendment…
How can anyone possibly talk so long without getting to a point? I gave up.
Simple. Do not use chlorinated brake cleaner. Done and done!
KnifeMaker
3rd :(
😁🤪👀👍👍👍👍
Ads you cannot immediately opt out of, I will never use that product...ever.