I tried to tell once you use it , you'll be sold on it . I use the standard anti sieze , I've never tried the one with copper in it . Me and old Charles Irby have been using it forever , Take the sprue cutter off and install it under the pivot point . Even the pivot bolt that hold the handles together . It lasts and lasts . I worked in a casting foundry and that's all we used . It should be good for months of use .
Awesome! All I know is this thing works very well. Where have I been!!!🤪😂😜 thanks for the tip. And a big tip at that! I am very glad that I was able to pass this on, I learned a whole lot from you guys in the comment section sometimes👍👍👍
It's good to have you back on youtube. I missed your experiments and advice. You and fortune cookie got me into reloading in the first place. Keep em coming!
Definitely trying this. Elvis -- you are the supreme oracle of all casting knowledge thanks to your work and the experience of your subscribers. I bow in homage.
I've always used candle wax. To flux snd to lube my molds. Looks like it's about time for me to join the 21st century ! Thanks for passing on the tip Elvis.
Woohoo, a daily dose of Elvis Ammo continues. Hey brother, try using a single burner hot plate to preheat your mold. Good bullets on the second pour every time. Good video, thanks for sharing.
Great info. I have both copper and nickel based anti-seize. I’m going to try both on my aluminum Lee molds to see if there’s any difference. Like a BOSS!! Great videos Elvis! Thanks!!👍🏻
Elvis! Just sitting here doing some PC and we taped off the air holes for the MAPP gas torch and turned the gas way down ,got a good smoky flame and smoked a mold! This works great!
Nice! I use it just on my pins but now I will try it like the 2 cycle oil. I've learned a little something from every video you've done so far this past week. Thank you elvis.
I wonder if this is the same or similar to what we call over here in the U.K. copper ease , made to put on brake pad backing plates to stop brake squeal etc ? I try it tomorrow when I’m casting my 38 and 44 lead bullets! 👍🇬🇧🏴
Lee recommends anti-sieze as an option in the instructions that come with the molds. I like it for guide pins but not the sprue plate so much. I'm sold on that bull plate lube. I knew a guy that lost a wheel on the highway using never-sieze on his lugnut studs lol. I'm so glad you're back man and not behind a paywall
Pre heat the mold on a hot plate on very low heat prior to using. Always run two molds in a session. You will not get any lead build up under the Spure or torn bases. Once again use a soft carpenters pencil to lubricate the Spure cutter. Its loaded with graphite or soft lumber crayon is loaded with graphite
I will haft to give the anti seize a try,I usually use a little automatic trans fluid,It always work ok for me,but I’m always open to different and hopefully better ways.Once again I appreciate your videos,thanks for the info.
Elvis, I have a shot-maker, one of the things you need to keep the shot rolling off the deflector plate is a coating of copper anti-seize applied to it, Lead won't stick to copper anti-seize compound. the compound itself is expensive, however, it has many other uses around the shop. Never thought about wiping down my molds with it, thanks for the new tip dude. -Dave
👍👍👍👍 Thanks again. I always hear from new folks how the comment section on my videos are so informative just want to continue to thank you guys for contributing!
Elvis, your awesome dude!!! I'm new to casting but have found if I turn the mold over when dropping the bullets, they fallout much easier. I suspect it's because the bullet base is heavier than a round out flat tip. Just saying.....
I use Permatex anti sieze for a lot of things, it works great on my muzzleoader to keep everything from seizing together due to gunpowder heat build up.I never gave this a thought, Im going to do this for sure, thank you for the idea!!
Stihl did a copy of Amsoil 2 stroke oil at the plant in Va. Beach, Va. They got a sample from Jerry Revell to do spectrometer analysis on it. Its still just a cheap copy of Amsoil’s formula. They did it cause of blowers burning up but not ones where folks were using Amsoil 2 stroke oil/ gas mix.
just bought 3rd Lee 6 cavity mold - reluctantly. The first one is Kaput. Second one the pivot bolt has lost its grip and the guide pins have galled the aluminum a little bit. I'm going to drill out and do some alternative and more substantial pivot bolt bushing combination. I may even take out the male and female end of the guide pins and do something like the Lyman iron molds. Weather for cavity mold they have three pins 1 high and 1 low on the near end and one at the far end. Those pins look like half of a ball bearing is sticking out from the face. And it gets received by half round recess. Since the molds are iron there's no harder metal going the softer metal but the shape looks great. In the meantime cuz I need to generate some ammo I ordered another Lee mold since I couldn't find a similar design something like the Lyman. I'm going to try the never-seez approach and see if I can get this thing lubricated sufficiently to survive longer this time. BTW; I got a whole bunch of different scraps of powder coating from an outfit that did powder coating. He said they had about 70 pounds worth of stuff that they baked up into a pile so that it wouldn't scare the trash men with a bunch of colorful powders fluffing around in the air. They were happy to give me a bunch of stuff that had been used on various projects. Took for what it's worth of free source of powder might be available somewhere near you guys.
Thanks for the info Elvis. I use a different brand (NEVER SEEZ) and never rubbed it on all the surfaces like you are doing. That is a better method than what I was doing. I just did the Q tip thing. Only a little on the pivot points. My stuff consists of mostly molybdenum sulfide. It is magic that holds up to heat. But as everyone says....BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DON'T GET IT ON A WHITE COUCH. IT JUST DON'T COME OFF.
That's why you have to have a hot plate to put it on while not casting. I actually started dipping a corner in to lead if I am too lazy to pull out hotplate.
@@DimaProk I never think of it when the camera's rolling. I end up talking just that little bit too long, and the mold cools more than I was expecting. I've always ended up having to clean lead off (or out of) the mold in one way or another whenever I've dipped the corner.
I have permatex anti sieze in my toolbox so just put it on a rag and wipe it on? Its kinda pasty. We put it on brake sliders to keep them from seizing among other stuff. Never thought about it on a mold but makes sense cuz it does withstand extremely high heat. Thanks for the tip
I actually have aluminum anti-seize I bought for the barrel threads, it's pretty messy there but now I can try it on the mold! You can get a piece of PVC pipe and put a wooden stick in it, better than screwdriver to bang with. Are you left handed? I use my right hand to knock on the bolt handle.
Great info! Some of my steel mold are a pain to use. I will have to try this. 🇺🇸 Got a question - A few of my steel molds get lead build up in between the sprue plate and the mold. Drives me nuts! I have to shave lead off the bottom of the sprue plate. If I tighten the sprue, it operates too tight. I operate all my molds the same, it's just a couple of them that do this. Do a video to help me! Thanks brother.
Great point. Might be running it to hot. I run 2 or 3 molds at one time. I hope that it's just me being impatient, but it doesn't seem to be running any hotter than my other molds. Drops nice bullets, just lead build up on the mold. Do sprue plates wear out? Maybe it's damaged. I will have to take a good look at it. (RCBS)
Hey there was looking for your video on maintaining lee moulds from a few years back you were using 2 stroke oil to lube your moulds. Was the oil you use fully synthetic or semi synthetic or it doesn't make a difference.
most HI Temp anti-sieze is WAY hotter than you need. 1800 degrees is like red-hot steel. lead is liquid at less than 700 degrees, isn't it? and the anti-sieze ketchup packets at the counters of most auto parts stores is more than enough for a couple of years. (and I really enjoyed the video. Glad Thorseaxe777 sent me this way!)
just use the acetylene side of an oxyacetylene torch. all you need to do is just crack it open a little bit, light it off and you will have the smokiest flame you could ever ask for. buy secondhand torch and a little acetylene bottle. it will outlast you.
If you are going to try this, use TINY amounts- TINY!!! Don't slather this stuff allover a mould ever, you'll just create problems. And anyone smoking a mould to get it to release, you probably need to run the mould hotter, not the alloy, but the mould. There can also mechanical issues like tiny burrs on the cavity edges. Look up "Leementing" on some of the casting sites, the process applies to more than just Lee moulds.
When I was first learning the powder coat methods from you, I got in a hurry to find the pre-heat times. So, I changed the playback speed. And I found out I could ply your videos back at 2X, and you are still perfectly understandable. So, I got to listen to this entire 12:16 video in 6:08.
@@TartanJack I was born on a dirt road in Macon, GA, in 1953, and I live in the north Georgia piedmont now, so the drawl sounds good to me, too! But I like being able to crank through the pertinent info and demonstration in high speed!
Put it on your screw threads and under the spring washers and flat washers, anywhere there is movement like on the recesses where the handles pivot and that post the sprue plate comes under...that's where you will really benefit from it's long lasting lubrication qualities. A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAYS!
@@elvisammo oh gosh, I don't know which one, I've had that can about 30 years. We used it on bolts & fittings used around high temp. steam fittings on machinery. If'Ya thin it out with some motor oil about 50/50 or even more, it makes a great tapping fluid too. It's really sweet to get a E.A.R.R.L. approval!
I tried TC breach plug anti seaze on a new 45 lee mold just yesterday I think it worked ok. It's all I had so I decided what the heck. If anyone sees an issue with that please let me know. I'm new to bullet casting and powder coating both.
Elvis, just starting out casting and wanna start with a hunting round for a 30.30 and .223. What would be your suggestion for a mold for each? Love the channel!
There is a heat , temperature rating on each type of anti sieze. The nickel type has a higher temperature rating. . I wouldn't recommend the aluminium type , since the aluminium can react to basic steel.
Ok I’m new into casting and I was casting 44mag 225 gr . I’m using f Very pure lead from a factory test ingots. They are 3% antimony. I did flux So some of my bullets cracked at the base and some hade air holes in the base I then switched to 38 same lead and all were fine. Any suggestions thanks
Late to the party but they are probably referring to "galvanic corrosion" from dissimilar metals. Not sure of the exact wording there but just like the zincs on your boat to reduce corrosion, they corrode instead.
Cast faster!😜🤣🤪 that probably has a more complicated answer to be serious. I should probably do a video on this subject. But the lee bottom pour pot does this a good bit.
elvis ammo I usually tap the valve stem lightly to seat it and I have also put a hose clamp around the pot and housing to take the stress off of the screws and heating element. We never stop learning.
Mine dose that too I keep a flat head screwdriver next to my pot when it starts dripping bad I just give the rod a turn back an forth and it stops for a bit afther a few mold fillings it starts again. The more you have in the pot the worse it gets
fortunecookie, has really good videos on sizing, crimping and inspecting, I know there are more, But I only use air guns, But Now I made slugs usaBLE IN firearms.
Read Instructions - Lee Instruction Sheet see # 4 "Lubricate your mold using beeswax or 👍Permatex®👍 anti-seize lubicant or equivalent. " ALSO - "do not use Lee Liquid Alox" & "do not use paraffin wax" Love your new detail videos, helps me a lot...🍺🥨🍺
Doesn't copper corrode aluminum? You can't use copper antifouling paint on aluminum boats for that reason. As long as the grease prevents oxygen from mixing with the copper and aluminum it should be ok. Just asking what the long term results might be. Say in long term storage.
Elvis, great video but this technology is old, from 2008. Castboolits first talked about never seize then. The purpose was so you could cast fast not needing the sprue to harden completely thus getting the lead smear across the top of the mold and/or the bottom of the sprue plate. I first tried it on a single cav BP mold and it was great but only lasted a half hour and kinda gummed up. I would use a razor scraper to scrape off when the smear would start. then re-apply. Syn 2cycle oil is better but there's much better stuff out there. BullplateLube was better than the 2cycle oil but the family that made it wouldn't give out the formula and anyone that asked what it was was ripped apart on forums as trying to hurt the family and take food out of their mouths. They got weird and went off the grid, even banned from the big forum. They never gave their formula. It was good stuff and looked like the blue/green syn 2 cycle oil but lasted much longer. Doesn't matter something even better than that and no drama getting it is car AC Compressor Oil from one vendor. If you or anyone cares I can get the part number. The bottle I have will last the rest of my life. I also apply it differently by using a q-tip barely dipped in the cap of the bottle then draw circles around the cavities and same on the sprue plate. You could paint the rest with the q-tip but not the cavities. You use so little, there's nothing to wipe off. I can operate the sprue as fast as I want after the sprue turns gray. I've been casting since the 60's so I know a bit about casting. Sorry for the long epic. Thought you may be interested. I may try applying it sometime the way you do it to see if it's easier but I see it uses much more.
@@keithzilka1966 Car Quest A/C Ester Oil Super Premium Ester Oil 8 FL OZ 72264 01196 bar code CCM CQE7 above the bar code They only had the stuff with dye in it on the shelves but the counter guy went in the back and got exactly this. It's a lifetime supply. This is car air conditioner compressor oil. Don't think if you can only get with dye in it hurts anything but what I got doesn't have that. Just used it last hear for a casting session. Still works great.
Good idea Evil Ammo I’m going to give this a try butt I’m a lucky man Uncle Jim made me a aluminum plate that I called the Utah plate no scratching the bottom of your moles up thank you Uncle Jim
I tried to tell once you use it , you'll be sold on it . I use the standard anti sieze , I've never tried the one with copper in it . Me and old Charles Irby have been using it forever , Take the sprue cutter off and install it under the pivot point . Even the pivot bolt that hold the handles together . It lasts and lasts . I worked in a casting foundry and that's all we used . It should be good for months of use .
Awesome! All I know is this thing works very well. Where have I been!!!🤪😂😜 thanks for the tip. And a big tip at that! I am very glad that I was able to pass this on, I learned a whole lot from you guys in the comment section sometimes👍👍👍
It's good to have you back on youtube. I missed your experiments and advice. You and fortune cookie got me into reloading in the first place.
Keep em coming!
👍👍👍👍
Definitely trying this. Elvis -- you are the supreme oracle of all casting knowledge thanks to your work and the experience of your subscribers. I bow in homage.
Subscribers here in the comment section are definitely very knowledgeable. I depend on a lot of information in here
That intro gets me every time boss😂👍🏻
Hey Boss!! 😜😂👍👍
ME TOO...I bust out laughing EVERY TIME!
I've always used candle wax. To flux snd to lube my molds. Looks like it's about time for me to join the 21st century ! Thanks for passing on the tip Elvis.
Yep ... that’s what I said!!😎👍
Great addition to the molding process!
Woohoo, a daily dose of Elvis Ammo continues.
Hey brother, try using a single burner hot plate to preheat your mold. Good bullets on the second pour every time.
Good video, thanks for sharing.
👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🥼
Yes, that works great. And the mold should be hot to the touch, not just warm.
I do the same thing, never misses.
Great info. I have both copper and nickel based anti-seize. I’m going to try both on my aluminum Lee molds to see if there’s any difference. Like a BOSS!! Great videos Elvis! Thanks!!👍🏻
Let me know what you find out?
Must have been toxic!
I use spray graphite. Spray down the mold blocks, top and bottom of the spruce cutter. Not oily, and dries almost on contact...
I use the Aluminum anti-seize grease on my Aluminum molds bottom edges and my N.O.E. Mold Guide. Also the Mold Guide on my old Lyman pot.
Elvis! Just sitting here doing some PC and we taped off the air holes for the MAPP gas torch and turned the gas way down ,got a good smoky flame and smoked a mold! This works great!
Just finished up 250 RCBS 38 150 SWC everything went extremely smoothly thank Elvis I don’t know what I would do without your videos
Awesome 😎, 👍, 💯, thank you for your video.
Nice! I use it just on my pins but now I will try it like the 2 cycle oil. I've learned a little something from every video you've done so far this past week. Thank you elvis.
👍👍👍👍
I wonder if this is the same or similar to what we call over here in the U.K. copper ease , made to put on brake pad backing plates to stop brake squeal etc ? I try it tomorrow when I’m casting my 38 and 44 lead bullets! 👍🇬🇧🏴
Lee recommends anti-sieze as an option in the instructions that come with the molds. I like it for guide pins but not the sprue plate so much. I'm sold on that bull plate lube. I knew a guy that lost a wheel on the highway using never-sieze on his lugnut studs lol. I'm so glad you're back man and not behind a paywall
And yet another good tip/vid....thanks Elvis.
Thanks 👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Yup-I have the same stuff but use it mostly on the pins and bolts. I'll use it more liberally now
Pre heat the mold on a hot plate on very low heat prior to using. Always run two molds in a session. You will not get any lead build up under the Spure or torn bases. Once again use a soft carpenters pencil to lubricate the Spure cutter. Its loaded with graphite or soft lumber crayon is loaded with graphite
I will haft to give the anti seize a try,I usually use a little automatic trans fluid,It always work ok for me,but I’m always open to different and hopefully better ways.Once again I appreciate your videos,thanks for the info.
👍👍can’t go wrong!!!
I tried atf once, it smelled like a Chevy...
Elvis, I have a shot-maker, one of the things you need to keep the shot rolling off the deflector plate is a coating of copper anti-seize applied to it, Lead won't stick to copper anti-seize compound. the compound itself is expensive, however, it has many other uses around the shop. Never thought about wiping down my molds with it, thanks for the new tip dude. -Dave
👍👍👍👍 Thanks again. I always hear from new folks how the comment section on my videos are so informative just want to continue to thank you guys for contributing!
Already using that for my breach plug. This is good info. Thanks.
Awesome... What kind are you using?
elvis ammo the copper for sure. 👍
When I smoke the molds I smoke the sprue plate top and bottom and the pivot too. Seems to work fine.
Man I have learned so much from your videos thanks elvis
Thanks 308 guy!!! 👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Elvis, your awesome dude!!! I'm new to casting but have found if I turn the mold over when dropping the bullets, they fallout much easier. I suspect it's because the bullet base is heavier than a round out flat tip. Just saying.....
I use Permatex anti sieze for a lot of things, it works great on my muzzleoader to keep everything from seizing together due to gunpowder heat build up.I never gave this a thought, Im going to do this for sure, thank you for the idea!!
Let me know what you think of your permatex after trying it on your mold?
@@elvisammo I sure will, thanks.
I remember reading to use anti-sieze on the pins and sprue cutter in the directions with the mould..... Have used it since starting though.
Great tips..
Good tip. James Pollard turned a lot of us on to the anti seize over on TRN👍🏻
I am scratching my head, thanking. Why haven’t I been doing this? 😁
elvis ammo I know😂
Thank you for all you do
Stihl did a copy of Amsoil 2 stroke oil at the plant in Va. Beach, Va. They got a sample from Jerry Revell to do spectrometer analysis on it. Its still just a cheap copy of Amsoil’s formula. They did it cause of blowers burning up but not ones where folks were using Amsoil 2 stroke oil/ gas mix.
just bought 3rd Lee 6 cavity mold - reluctantly. The first one is Kaput. Second one the pivot bolt has lost its grip and the guide pins have galled the aluminum a little bit. I'm going to drill out and do some alternative and more substantial pivot bolt bushing combination. I may even take out the male and female end of the guide pins and do something like the Lyman iron molds. Weather for cavity mold they have three pins 1 high and 1 low on the near end and one at the far end. Those pins look like half of a ball bearing is sticking out from the face. And it gets received by half round recess. Since the molds are iron there's no harder metal going the softer metal but the shape looks great.
In the meantime cuz I need to generate some ammo I ordered another Lee mold since I couldn't find a similar design something like the Lyman. I'm going to try the never-seez approach and see if I can get this thing lubricated sufficiently to survive longer this time.
BTW; I got a whole bunch of different scraps of powder coating from an outfit that did powder coating. He said they had about 70 pounds worth of stuff that they baked up into a pile so that it wouldn't scare the trash men with a bunch of colorful powders fluffing around in the air. They were happy to give me a bunch of stuff that had been used on various projects. Took for what it's worth of free source of powder might be available somewhere near you guys.
Great information. Thanks for sharing what you learn, man.
happy New Year! 🇺🇸🇺🇸👍👍
@@elvisammo you, too!
Excellent video, Elvis Dude!!! Question...do you "smut" the bullet cavity from a flame to help the bullets fall out, or is that not necessary???
Great idea thanks Elvis. Another BOSS video my man!
😜🤣☠️☠️🇺🇸🇺🇸👍
Good tip. Even an old dog can learn something new! 😊
I have a graphite based anti seize. I’ll give it a try. Theoretically if it burns of it should leave behind the graphite
Heck ya! Looks good!
I can’t believe this stuff! Where have I been! 😎
Thanks for the info Elvis. I use a different brand (NEVER SEEZ) and never rubbed it on all the surfaces like you are doing. That is a better method than what I was doing. I just did the Q tip thing. Only a little on the pivot points. My stuff consists of mostly molybdenum sulfide. It is magic that holds up to heat. But as everyone says....BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DON'T GET IT ON A WHITE COUCH. IT JUST DON'T COME OFF.
Thanks for the info sir!!!👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks for a great informative video
I’ve got a Lyman 450 for sale for $100 plus shipping, has 45-70 die and punch installed. No grease, has been cleaned
Always good information sir thank you for sharing and God Bless
That is a good idea I will have to give a try
I picked it up from James pollard and Charlie Irby. Works like a charm
👍👍👍👍
Awesome tips!
I'll have to try anti-seize.
Molds cooling too much during filming happens EVERY time.
Yikes!!!! It makes us “pros” look stupid😜😁😂😂👍
That's why you have to have a hot plate to put it on while not casting. I actually started dipping a corner in to lead if I am too lazy to pull out hotplate.
@@DimaProk I never think of it when the camera's rolling. I end up talking just that little bit too long, and the mold cools more than I was expecting. I've always ended up having to clean lead off (or out of) the mold in one way or another whenever I've dipped the corner.
I just started molding for my .58 cal muzzleloader. But my bullets have pits in the base of the bullet pocket. Would that cause issues shooting?
Good video thanks Elvis
Where can I get what I believe you called a "guide plate"?
Thanks for the tip! I always enjoy your vlogs, especially the power coating information now I'm wondering what to do with my star luber sizer?
Watch Thorsaxe777 channel.. he has that subject covered
I have permatex anti sieze in my toolbox so just put it on a rag and wipe it on? Its kinda pasty. We put it on brake sliders to keep them from seizing among other stuff. Never thought about it on a mold but makes sense cuz it does withstand extremely high heat. Thanks for the tip
Have you, or anyone personally tried casting with it on an "Ideal" or "Lyman" Iron mold?
Yes it is being done for sure
I actually have aluminum anti-seize I bought for the barrel threads, it's pretty messy there but now I can try it on the mold! You can get a piece of PVC pipe and put a wooden stick in it, better than screwdriver to bang with. Are you left handed? I use my right hand to knock on the bolt handle.
Great info! Some of my steel mold are a pain to use. I will have to try this. 🇺🇸
Got a question - A few of my steel molds get lead build up in between the sprue plate and the mold. Drives me nuts! I have to shave lead off the bottom of the sprue plate. If I tighten the sprue, it operates too tight. I operate all my molds the same, it's just a couple of them that do this. Do a video to help me! Thanks brother.
Yep.... I’ll do that. You were not the only one that has asked the same thing👍👍
paridox12b I always run two molds at the same time. While one is being filled the other is cooling . No smears or torn bases.
Great point. Might be running it to hot. I run 2 or 3 molds at one time. I hope that it's just me being impatient, but it doesn't seem to be running any hotter than my other molds. Drops nice bullets, just lead build up on the mold. Do sprue plates wear out? Maybe it's damaged. I will have to take a good look at it. (RCBS)
Hey there was looking for your video on maintaining lee moulds from a few years back you were using 2 stroke oil to lube your moulds. Was the oil you use fully synthetic or semi synthetic or it doesn't make a difference.
I wonder if a graphite based lube would last longer, considering copper usually doesn't handle heat as well as graphite.
most HI Temp anti-sieze is WAY hotter than you need. 1800 degrees is like red-hot steel. lead is liquid at less than 700 degrees, isn't it? and the anti-sieze ketchup packets at the counters of most auto parts stores is more than enough for a couple of years. (and I really enjoyed the video. Glad Thorseaxe777 sent me this way!)
👍
I want an old carbide lamp for smoking molds.
just use the acetylene side of an oxyacetylene torch. all you need to do is just crack it open a little bit, light it off and you will have the smokiest flame you could ever ask for. buy secondhand torch and a little acetylene bottle. it will outlast you.
If you are going to try this, use TINY amounts- TINY!!! Don't slather this stuff allover a mould ever, you'll just create problems. And anyone smoking a mould to get it to release, you probably need to run the mould hotter, not the alloy, but the mould. There can also mechanical issues like tiny burrs on the cavity edges. Look up "Leementing" on some of the casting sites, the process applies to more than just Lee moulds.
When I was first learning the powder coat methods from you, I got in a hurry to find the pre-heat times.
So, I changed the playback speed. And I found out I could ply your videos back at 2X, and you are still perfectly understandable.
So, I got to listen to this entire 12:16 video in 6:08.
I use 1.25... still maintain that SC drawl. But 2X rocks too!
@@TartanJack I was born on a dirt road in Macon, GA, in 1953, and I live in the north Georgia piedmont now, so the drawl sounds good to me, too! But I like being able to crank through the pertinent info and demonstration in high speed!
That’s awesome brother!!!! 👍👍👍😎
I can't tell you how great it is to see you still making videos and NOT letting the libtards of youtube defeat you. Keep up the good work EA...Jim.
By the way you rock Elvis
If you put the speed at 1.5x, it sounds like he's talking at a normal pace. I'm just messing with you! I love your channel!
Put it on your screw threads and under the spring washers and flat washers, anywhere there is movement like on the recesses where the handles pivot and that post the sprue plate comes under...that's where you will really benefit from it's long lasting lubrication qualities.
A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAYS!
Have you been using this also? What kind do you use?
@@elvisammo oh gosh, I don't know which one, I've had that can about 30 years. We used it on bolts & fittings used around high temp. steam fittings on machinery.
If'Ya thin it out with some motor oil about 50/50 or even more, it makes a great tapping fluid too.
It's really sweet to get a E.A.R.R.L. approval!
I tried TC breach plug anti seaze on a new 45 lee mold just yesterday I think it worked ok. It's all I had so I decided what the heck. If anyone sees an issue with that please let me know. I'm new to bullet casting and powder coating both.
I don’t see a problem with it maybe someone else will chime in
A month later - any update on corrosive impacts on the mold ?
Waking up to a fresh video jammed with outstanding info. Thanks brother!
Thanks Eagle Eye! Loving your new target camera!!! Looks like you guys doing good stuff over there!!
Any other colors besides light Ford blue From Eastwood that you like
Nice tip. Once again the master teaches the students!!👍✌️🇺🇸
God and family brother!!!!! 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
I use spay Graphite Lubricant 3 costs
I like it!
Anti seize is in lee mold info
Elvis, just starting out casting and wanna start with a hunting round for a 30.30 and .223. What would be your suggestion for a mold for each? Love the channel!
There is a heat , temperature rating on each type of anti sieze. The nickel type has a higher temperature rating. . I wouldn't recommend the aluminium type , since the aluminium can react to basic steel.
Ok I’m new into casting and I was casting 44mag 225 gr . I’m using f
Very pure lead from a factory test ingots. They are 3% antimony. I did flux So some of my bullets cracked at the base and some hade air holes in the base I then switched to 38 same lead and all were fine. Any suggestions thanks
Late to the party but they are probably referring to "galvanic corrosion" from dissimilar metals. Not sure of the exact wording there but just like the zincs on your boat to reduce corrosion, they corrode instead.
We use copper grease and haven't seen that liquid in the UK but I will now be looking out for it.
Thanks for the tip,
Have you tried candle wax ?
Elvis give us an update soon. Many are asking where you have been
Elvis where are you?
Hi Elvis, I don't understand English very well, however if I understand correctly, is this product used to lubricate the molds?
Yes .. use it the same way
@Michael Madden only the pin and bolt?
You can wipe down everything except for the bullet cavities
@Michael Madden thanks, i understanding
@Michael Madden thank you
Anti seize brake lube... well I should get some and add some to my brakes on my ford..
😂😂😂😂as I dive deeper into the rabbit hole....mmmmm I am finding how deep the B/S around the hobby it really is 😅😅😅
What do you do when the pot starts dripping?
Cast faster!😜🤣🤪 that probably has a more complicated answer to be serious. I should probably do a video on this subject. But the lee bottom pour pot does this a good bit.
elvis ammo I usually tap the valve stem lightly to seat it and I have also put a hose clamp around the pot and housing to take the stress off of the screws and heating element. We never stop learning.
Mine dose that too I keep a flat head screwdriver next to my pot when it starts dripping bad I just give the rod a turn back an forth and it stops for a bit afther a few mold fillings it starts again. The more you have in the pot the worse it gets
that guy 12b 4life Thanks for the tip ,I'll keep a flat head out on the bench as well.
Mine always makes some cool looking artwork. Almost a shame to put it back in the pot. 😊
Thank you and fortunecookie45lc for getting me into casting and powder coating. I'm glad to have ammo now
Yes sir this will keep you ahead of the game for sure👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
fortunecookie, has really good videos on sizing, crimping and inspecting, I know there are more, But I only use air guns, But Now I made slugs usaBLE IN firearms.
I use the aluminum version of that stuff, and I use way more than Elvis does. 😂 I have aluminum molds so why mix metals and risk corrosion?
I’d say that is a safe bet
Its right in the original instructions that came with the modes but not to your extent
The only issue with anti seize is how messy it can be. Jute a trace on your fingers, and before you realize it, it’s everywhere.
I would try Nickel-Graf after searching the interwebs
I laugh at the beginning of every video!...LOL
🤣🤪😝😎😎👍👍
Read Instructions - Lee Instruction Sheet see # 4 "Lubricate your mold using beeswax or
👍Permatex®👍 anti-seize lubicant or equivalent. " ALSO - "do not use Lee
Liquid Alox" & "do not use paraffin wax" Love your new detail videos, helps me a lot...🍺🥨🍺
👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Doesn't copper corrode aluminum?
You can't use copper antifouling paint on aluminum boats for that reason. As long as the grease prevents oxygen from mixing with the copper and aluminum it should be ok. Just asking what the long term results might be. Say in long term storage.
Lee recommends Permatex.
I will report back if I see anything at all. But apparently this product is being used, I haven’t heard any negative results yet. Stay tuned
Elvis, great video but this technology is old, from 2008. Castboolits first talked about never seize then. The purpose was so you could cast fast not needing the sprue to harden completely thus getting the lead smear across the top of the mold and/or the bottom of the sprue plate. I first tried it on a single cav BP mold and it was great but only lasted a half hour and kinda gummed up. I would use a razor scraper to scrape off when the smear would start. then re-apply. Syn 2cycle oil is better but there's much better stuff out there. BullplateLube was better than the 2cycle oil but the family that made it wouldn't give out the formula and anyone that asked what it was was ripped apart on forums as trying to hurt the family and take food out of their mouths. They got weird and went off the grid, even banned from the big forum. They never gave their formula. It was good stuff and looked like the blue/green syn 2 cycle oil but lasted much longer. Doesn't matter something even better than that and no drama getting it is car AC Compressor Oil from one vendor. If you or anyone cares I can get the part number. The bottle I have will last the rest of my life. I also apply it differently by using a q-tip barely dipped in the cap of the bottle then draw circles around the cavities and same on the sprue plate. You could paint the rest with the q-tip but not the cavities. You use so little, there's nothing to wipe off. I can operate the sprue as fast as I want after the sprue turns gray. I've been casting since the 60's so I know a bit about casting. Sorry for the long epic. Thought you may be interested. I may try applying it sometime the way you do it to see if it's easier but I see it uses much more.
What’s the name of the AC oil Bob? I would appreciate it!
@@keithzilka1966 Car Quest
A/C Ester Oil
Super Premium Ester Oil
8 FL OZ
72264 01196 bar code
CCM CQE7 above the bar code
They only had the stuff with dye in it on the shelves but the counter guy went in the back and got exactly this. It's a lifetime supply. This is car air conditioner compressor oil. Don't think if you can only get with dye in it hurts anything but what I got doesn't have that. Just used it last hear for a casting session. Still works great.
@@bobjohnson5218 thanks Bob!
Have your lead levels checked
Damn it! I watch this video, now I have anti seize all over me!
Same lube as is on New Glock slides....
Yep that’s what I was thinking!👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Lug nuts should not be lubricated.
It’s a powder you get out because anti seize is chock full of aluminum powder
the way you are wiggling around, leads me to belive you are high AF
but the video is sooo legit... so we good.
En intérieur, sans ventilation, sans masque! Ce qu'il ne faut pas faire.
Good idea Evil Ammo I’m going to give this a try butt I’m a lucky man Uncle Jim made me a aluminum plate that I called the Utah plate no scratching the bottom of your moles up thank you Uncle Jim
☠️🤣😝👍