Why doesn't every woodworker have these cheap tools?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ธ.ค. 2022
- ✅️ TOOLS/SUPPLIES IN THIS VIDEO
Amana Countersink Bit - amzn.to/3VCZUib
Pica Dry Mechanical Pencil - amzn.to/3VfMwAJ
Pentel Graph Gear 1000 - amzn.to/3gDM5Bf
FastCap Track Racks - tsoproducts.com/organization-...
Magenetizer/Demagnetizer - amzn.to/3gGcK04
Thread Checker (metric/inch) - amzn.to/3gNlMID
FastCap Lefty/Rigty (Inch) tape measure - amzn.to/3VvuIln
FastCap Lefty/Righty (Metric) tape measure - amzn.to/3UnZbjW
FastCap 12’ (Metric/Inch) tape measure - amzn.to/3ASi33m
FastCap Flatback 12’ (Metric/Inch) tape measure - amzn.to/3EOOroC
Vix Bit Self Centering Drill Bit Set - amzn.to/3XD6o2j
1-2-3 Blocks - amzn.to/3UfYn08
iGaging Set Up Blocks (set) - amzn.to/3F9LcJW
Stanley 12’ Tape measure - amzn.to/3uenR3n
FastCap Quad Edge Banding Trimmer - amzn.to/3gLgUnw
Wera Ratcheting Screwdriver - amzn.to/3u8BwJt
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I won't work without these cheap tools - • I won't work without t...
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Cheap Tools I like and LOVE
#tools #woodworking #workshop - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
If you took a pencil-on-paper drafting class, you learned to spin the pencil to keep a fine, consistent line. You are effectively sharpening the lead as you’re drawing.
Indeed and its still a habit
If you stayed in that class for longer than seven minutes you would also know that you still have to advance your lead, or if using a wooden pencil, SHARPEN IT to keep the lead exposed from the wood.
I guess nobody has had drafting training like us old guys had. When you drag your pencil across the paper (or wood) you turn it so that it takes a bit of lead off all around leaving a sharp point just like the one you started with. Can't do that with a carpenter pencil, but carpenters seemingly don't pay any attention to the lines anyway. Any pencil will last longer if you use it properly.
Yep, I started out as a drafter, before cad. Who knows what I spent on my mechanical pencils, a lot. I got these pencils after stumpy nubs introducing them. They are by far the best I've used. If people are still breaking lead, they sell them in all different sizes. I like .7 mm. The most. But I bought all the sizes. They are very reasonably priced.
Or you buy a Kura toga machine pencil from Japan and just let it do it for you
Thanks that’s never occurred to me.
@@dougprentice1363😊
Yep , just Learn to us a pencil. This is a lost art , it really works !
I find a silicone pastry mat super useful for a glue station. Once the glue has dried, it pops right off
Wax paper is cheaper.
Same thing I use
@@bingmattson8685 not in the long run, pay $5 once or pay $2 every couple months
Yep, I used wax paper for a long time, but the glue still sticks to it and if you have a glue line over it you get wax paper stuck to the glue line and have scrape or sand it off and that wastes a lot of time compared to using the silicone mat that the glue just won't stick to at all.
I learned drafting many years ago before computer aided design. You're supposed to rotate the pencil when you draw a line so the width stays consistent as you draw. Same goes for the Pica.
You are absolutely correct but I also agree with old mate about the 0.5mm mechanical pencil for workshop use. I use a variant of the Pica pencil at work (on site carpenter) but I still prefer my super fine lead mechanical pencil for the dainty little projects I work on at home.
I was a draftsman also in the 60s and 70s. We call the folks who dont know to properly use a pencil. “Wood butchers”
Yes, have an AA in Architecture and Construction Tech. Cad wasn't being taught around here then. I never used it except for myself. I became a medic the law enforcement.
My sister recently got me a machinist ruler for my birthday. Its a solid metal ruler but the measurements start exactly at the end of the ruler, without the little gap. Its helped me become much more accurate in my measurements and for keeping things square!
Yeah machinist squares are good for several things in a shop. I have a small 4 inch one that I use all the time
@@MWAWoodworks I think he is taking about the ruler - I have a set that starts from the edge and they are great.
Ah yeah I can't read so good 🤣
De-magnatizer comes in handy for drills or bits that start to accumulate metal shavings
I used to use the drafting "spin the pencil" method, but after thinking about it, I realized for marking things like wood or metal cuts, the thickness of the mark doesn't matter. It's where your straight edge is placed in relation to the actual blade path.
This is why I started putting arrows near my marks, to remember which side of the mark to cut on. My measurements got much more accurate.
In woodworking joinery, many people use a knife line. The width does matter when you want accuracy down to the thousandths of an inch.
The Amana countersink tool, Pentel Graph Gear pencils and the Fastcap tape measures are all great tools. Thanks for showing them off.
I really appreciate your honesty in this video. Too many folks just peddle the tools they didn't use or don't say anything negative.
I try to do my best to show what I like and don't really like!
Honestly I was thinking FastCap paid for the video.
I have both the Pica and Pentel pencils, both have their place. The pica works best for initial rough layout and it has multiple lead colors for dark woods . And I deify you to break it on rough lumber.
The pentel is suited better for fine layout lines for precision work on smooth lumber.
I agree pica is perfect for carpentry and rough layout. I have one that I put white lead in so I can mark on walnut.
The forth be with you.
they have a pica fine dry now 0.9mm
I have searched for years for a left handed tape. Thx u. I can’t wait to get one
Bought one of those pencils straight after watching the video! I have one where the tip retracts but so does the lead so you have to push it out each time. This looks great. Thank you.
Igaging also makes a 4" and 6" double square set (just under 40 bucks) that's really nice. Overall, their setup/layout tools are super good value! I also revently grabbed a set of Uncle Bill's splinter tweezers. Game changer.
The 6" double square is used almost every time I do anything in the shop. Need to get a 4" one.
I would add a digital caliper to your very informative list. You can get a good one for less than $10. They have a large digital screen, measure inside and outside diameter and depth. I appreciate the ability to convert inch and millimeter just by pressing a button. The measurement range is from 0-to 6". Calipers in the under $20 can even give you fractions, which allows you convert from inches to fractions to millimeters at the press of a button. I prefer the plastic/carbon fabric ones as they are non-conductive, inexpensive and very durable. For woodworking and home use they are extremely accurate.
Yes! In fact I actually did a previous tool video which included my digital calipers 😃
I use the 1-2-3 block in conjunction with a fence clamp for a use-anywhere stop block. It works on my drill press fence, router fence, table saw fence, etc. since you can rotate it to the optimal height for the particular fence. The pair works great when doing repeatable cuts with my miter gauge on my table saw since I can set my fence to 1 inch more than what I want the cut piece to be, then register the end of the board to the 1-2-3 block
.
Nice yeah I think a stop block is a great use for them!
Those Pica (lead holders) and even mechanical pencils work better if you slowly rotate the pencil as you mark your line. So instead of wearing a flat tip in one spot as you make your mark, it sharpens itself while you draw your lines if you rotate it while drawing. Learned that in drafting class back in high school (a long time ago…).
I don't know if I'm coordinated enough for that 😆🤣
@@MWAWoodworks Even if you rotate the Pica pencil, the point will still widen as it dulls. Rotating the Pentel will allow the lead to wear evenly and not create a 'point' on one side of the lead as you write/draw with it. I was taught this in mechanical drawing in high school (c/o '86).
That’s an old drafting trick we were taught with those original mechanical pencils they had in the 70’s
@@woodandwheelz you all should look at the Uni Kuru Toga, everytime you put down the lead it rotates, problem solved
I’ve been using pentel twist erase mechanical pencils for mor than 10 years. It has a rubberized grip, it clicks and stores several extra leads, and has a long vinyl erasure that cranks out of the back end. They come into various lead sizes (I prefer .9mm HB). Also, get a pentel polymer erasure for cleanly removing marks on wood- or when quickly drawing up plans, they are amazing.
Amazon must love you, I just ordered half the stuff you are talking about. Great video Thanks
Me thinks it's the other way around...
Great, keep this frequent. I learned two things today. You are a trusted mentor. Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words!
I love the track rack. I have one piece of advice for you is to turn them opposite from the way they are in this video. From experience my silicone track moved where it rested on the track rack. Put the silicone facing upwards where the weight rests on the aluminum instead of the silicone. Keep the great videos coming.
I have done the same thing. Let the weight rest on the aluminum instead of the silicone
Protect the silicone. Nothing worse than to come out to the shop, and when you pull out your tracks to watch the zero clearance strip snake onto the floor.
I wonder if the weight of the tracks on the garage door will affect the door operation? I know the spring is calibrated to the weight of the door and tracks are not light.
Cut to the line! It’s thickness doesn’t matter
This might be the best youtube video of all time. Thank you so much.
I have a .5mm and a .9mm Graphgear pencil. They are both great!
I ordered an Amana countersink bit about an hour before I watched this video. I have been wanting one for a while.
It's a great drill bit!
For a pencil: Eberhard Faber #2. Period. Best tape measure (for me): Stanley Classic 25'. Hands down most practical. Been using the Vix Bits for 40 years and wouldn't be without.
Just what the doctor ordered. Thanks for posting, !!
The handiest set up tools I have are Lee Valley Veritas 1 1/2 inch pocket layout square and Imperial layout block. Both have very common fractions built right into the depth, width etc of each of these consisting of 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", the block has a 1", and layout square a 1 1/2" offset. It makes layout and setup so easy. I leave them either in an apron pocket or more often right on top of the table saw fence. Yes, they are tiny. But want to set up your tablesaw blade to 45 degrees? It's perfect as it fits under the teeth. And the best part? You can get both at just under $20 currently.
😂 Everyone needs more than 50 tape measures. Love your channel.
I have gone metric. I have 25x50x75 blocks. I use them often, but generally in conjunction with my I-gauging metric setup block set. I also purchased the fastcap metric tape measures (regular and flatback), largely because that is the only metric brand I could find in the US. I also use calipers often in the wood shop.
As a life long metric user, seeing an imperial tape measure up close is daunting.
Hope you're well and having fun sliding the decimal place around for unit conversions.
FWIW, a 'flat 1.8 mm x 0.9mm exam mechanical pencil' [good search term] is a *GREAT* sub for a standard mechanical pencil, as the rectangular lead gives it a lot more strength, and can be easily kept to a sharp wedge with just a bit of sandpaper stuck to the edge of your workbench. They are also cheap as chips and available everywhere.
My favorite ratcheting screwdriver is the Kobalt 13-Piece Plastic Handle Magnetic Ratcheting Assorted Multi-bit Screwdriver Set, Model 15000. Includes 12 bits including straight, Philips, torx, and hex. The best part is that it has a collar grip that if you hold it will turn the bit at double rotation. You can also hold the handle stationary and turn the collar to rotate the bit, giving more stability like trying to start a screw without a pilot hole.
I love your videos this one is no exception. I definitely think this should become a regular video segment. A tool I use in my shop all the time is the dewalt 20v router
And Ive got that router 😁
I got my magnetizer at Wal-Mart for about $5. One on the bench and one in my carry bag. Magnetism fades with time and use, so having one in my bag to refresh my drivers is a good thing.
Matt, Another great and informative video. I built my miter station from your video. I noticed in this video that you built a miter saw hood. Would be interested to see an update video to your miter saw station showing the build and functionality of the miter saw hood and also the shop towel holder.
Thanks Steven! I'll be sure to include those updates in my next shop tour video. So many new things in the shop this year!
Thanks a lot!!!! Now my Amazon wish list just got bigger - and I didn’t know that was possible! 🤣🤣. Great video, I really enjoyed.
The longer you have the 1-2-3 blocks the more useful they become. They compliment the set up blocks very nicely.
I use the 123 blocks as an offset for my table saw fence when using the miter gauge. It's a perfect 1" offset, so very easy to set the fence.
Yep
I use 123 bocks as clamping features. I need to clamp irregular shaped pretty often so I have clamping features that bolt into the 123 blocks. The blocks and the features all fit in a small toolbox but they replaced a large drawer full of clamping jigs that I previously used.
You de magnetize when working on electronics.
Agreed! However I wouldn't be using a #2 philips head screwdriver on my electronics. I have a whole other set of much smaller specialized tools for working on computers/circuit boards which I would never magnetize to begin with so there would be no need to demagnetize them.
@@MWAWoodworks I get it I have tools for wood working different tools for electronics and different again for automotive work. Was just answering your statement for some who might not know why a de magnetizer lol be safe.
I have the 12' tape measurer but the smaller 6' is a nice pocket meassurer as well.
My preferred tape measure is from Lee Valley Tools. It's called the Blindman's Tape. I prefer the right to left version to use on my table saw, router, bandsaw, miter saw, drill press. You get the idea. I'm not a contractor just a DIY guy so this 12 foot tape is the perfect size. This tape is 1 inch wide so it's better that the Stanley that's only 1/2 an inch wide and you can only get in left to right. I've tried some of the Fastcap tapes and for me they just don't hold up to use. Thanks for all the info in this video. I've wondered about the PICA pencil and you confirmed what I assumed. I use .5 lead but just some cheep mechanicals, I think I'll try the fancy Pentel you use. People who think the size of the mark doesn't matter usually aren't making furniture or boxes or other DIY projects that need this kind of precision. A contractor's margin of error is a lot larger than a cabinet maker's. For the future, how about a comparison between the igaging set up blocks and something like the Kreg set up bars? Thanks for your suggestions.
Wow, a very Informative video!
Thank you!
This might be the first one of these videos where I actually want every item!
I use the Graphgear pencils and have one gripe about them. I wear an apron and store the pencil in the chest pocket. When I grab it and depress the plunger to project the writing tip it also advances the lead which was where I wanted it when I stored it. Aggravating!
Nice work! I probably won't buy those exact items, but you did get me thinking. Thanks!
I carry the graph gear 1000 and the pica, I use the pica for writing notes, marketing sides, etc. and the 0.5mm for marking measurements.
Nice to see you master the fourth.
I use a magnet out of an old computer hard drive to magnetize my tools. Works very well. Those HDD magnets are very strong.
Oh wow I think I about 100 old hard drives I just found a use for 😂
Magnets from mechanical hard drives are the best. The reason you were unable to demagnetize your screwdriver was technique. To demagnetize, connect the screwdriver to the magnet and move it around a little VERY slowly. Then, move the screwdriver away VERY slowly. Any sudden movement will cause the screwdriver to retain magnetism. To magnetize, move the screwdriver around a little on the magnet, and then SNATCH it away. That’s all it takes. Just use a hard drive magnet. You don’t need to buy the tool.
Hypermarket in Quito, Ecuador has a couple of 6 meter tapes for under $2 that seem to work fine. Since people everywhere seem to think borrowing a tape measures ok, these are perfect. They also sell a magnetized ash tray/screw collector that magnetizes screwdrivers easily
I love my Pentel Graphgear as well. I use my Pica with white lead for marking rough lines on darker woods
I do the same thing. My Pica is used for rough layout on walnut boards.
Thank you for sharing your view on the gadgets. I got very similar items (e.g. Flat Measuring Tape, Mechanical Pencil, Magnetiser/Demagnetise block - it actually came with my Screw Driver Set, so that’s bonus, and some other items those you didn’t show). Saying that I’m no PRO but to keep me occupied I do some woodworking after watching various videos like yourself. I got a very small Shed (10’x8’), and which I got too many things. So seeing the Cart for your Shop Vac, it wasn’t a brainier to make something similar for my vacuum cleaner that I use for collecting Dust/wood shavings and the rest. Brilliant ideas and the tips you do. Thank you!
I believe, “Our World is a Shared Experience”… Remember, *_Life_* is *_Short_* so, *_Live Long_* and *_Prosper_* … 🖖 Look after yourself and each other & Stay Safe! Now let’s get on to your next video. Pls Stop by my Channel and let me know if and where I should concentrate to improve my contents and pick up some paces. Being disabled, it’s not easy to keep it up, but I’m trying… Cheers!!!
Fantastic tips, Matt! Thanks! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks 👍
Definitely like this format. Keep on doing it. Already ordered from your recommendation.
For mechanical pencils, the Pentel P209/207/205 are my go to.
Really good vid. One of the best ones I’ve seen for actually useful items. Re the Pica segment…now that’s swimming upstream. Good ole #2 pencil for me. The lil time I spend sharpening slows me down a bit which isn’t always a bad thing. Thank you for sharing.
I still keep good quality cedar pencils lying around. Never know when you'll need one.
Glad the algorithm found you. Great video. Thanks.
Just ordered left/right FastCaps in std and metric. High contrast good for my old eyes. Reverse good for my old brain.
I've used a tailor's tape before for measuring round things. It's cloth so no problem bending it.
I just got the thread checker. Love it and it can be an industrial necklace for woodworking geeks 😂
Great idea!!
Always a good day when you upload. I’ve said it before but I stand by it. Your quality and skill is right there with bourbon moth, Jay Bates and TWW and I’m sure one day you’ll have that type of following.
Thanks for the kind words and high praise!
PICA makes a 0.5" version also. I have both. I use the 0.5" one all the time for working in the shop. The fatter lead one is used for basic framing where the fat line doesn't matter as much.
If you'rre looking or a pocket tape measure, Stanley makes a 10 footer that is 2" x 2" x 1/2".
I'm done buying tape measures, I have a problem..... that's a lie, I'm looking at the 10 footer now 🤣🤣🤣
Heads up they have the Penel in 0.7 (Pentel Graph Gear 1000 Automatic Drafting Pencil, 0.7mm Lead Size, Blue Barrel, 1 Each (PG1017C)) , great video
Yeah I have a couple of those as well!
Getting a consistent line out of a pencil (any pencil) is as simple as rolling the pencil in your hand as you make the line - that’s the second skill taught in any traditional drafting class. The first skill is how to stretch paper and hold it in place with four pieces of masking tape.
I own two of the pica pencils - they offer leads that can mark on wet wood and other materials that regular graphite leads do not. It’s the versatility of the lead types they offer and not the mechanical action of the pencil that makes them so useful. They are probably not needed in a cabinet shop where the wood is surfaced and dry.
Simple wooden pencils can be purchased in bulk complete with spare erasers and a sharpener at Costco during back to school season. In the right hands that kit is far cheaper and more versatile than a collection of mechanical pencils. I keep a kit in my truck and shop - I never run out of pencils before the next back to school season. The trick with all pencils is not to drop them.
I love the white lead for the Pica. Great for marking up walnut before cutting it to rough parts.
Great info. Thanks for posting.
Awesome!!!! Thanks Man!!!! Good Looking Out!!!!!👍😎
As well as woodworking i also do watch repairs. With watch repairs you do NOT want a magnetic screwdriver as it can mess a watch up and can make handling the extremely small screws impossible.
I finally got the Amana Countersink Bit which I wanted for a long time but have not yet used it. Next project.
Cool stuff, the track storage looks interesting.Though you're limited to working with the door closed when fastened to the door.
In answer to the question why you would demagnetize something always demag your drill bits before drilling steel helps to keep the chips from sticking in the flutes . This helps to keep the drill cooler and helps to keep your hole sized properly.
I discovered a use today for demagnetization. When you drill into metal; you often get metal ‘sawdust’ that sticks to the drill bit. Would have loved to have been able to demagnetize the bit today to drop those off.
Was the bit magnetized to begin with?
@@MWAWoodworks No, it wasn’t. But the drill bit had a hex end which I put into my Festool centrotec chuck, which is magnetized. So maybe the chuck imparted a charge to the bit.
You sold me on the Amana countersink and Fastcap trimmer. I’m also getting the Speed Roller Pro that you used but didn’t mention.
The finer graduations on a tape (like 1/32") gives you better PRECISION. The ACCURACY is a function of the tape manufacture and printing, and possibly the current temperature. Picking nits, yes - but calibration of measuring instruments was part of my professional life for a long time.
Hahaha thanks for setting me straight 😅
You should try the new Stabila tape measures. By far the best Ive tried over the past 10 years
Really enjoy your video in the content that you provide. but I'm going to take a little exception with the 123 blocks. I've had mine for over 2 years And I use them daily. Just leave 1 or 2 laying out on your bench as you work and you will be surprised how many times you might pick them up.
thanks for the tips!
Great job, Teacher kudos 👍
I use a pica pencil and I absolutely love it. However, I do construction and finish carpentry on the field more than my shop. The holster is fantastic because I never loose my pencil anymore or have to go digging in my pocket for it. There are leds for it available in various colors too for marking different materials. There is at least one other brand I’ve seen that has the pencil sharpener in the side of the holster which is more convenient.
Couple comments,
I liked the video so much I subscribed.
I've been using a Fastcap tape for years but now I'm trying to find a good one for a person with limited vision, any ideas?
I also have the thread checker like yours and it has come in handy so many times. I highly recommend it!
That set of set-up blocks is the best I've found and I've been woodworking since 1974.
I would like to see more like this from you.
Search for “ blind man’s tape” I dont remember who makes them
Nice video, the pica makes very hard graphite inserts which last much longer. But... i am a carpenter so for me it is maybe enough. Love it though.
Tool and die maker, I’ve used the 1,2,3 blocks for years. Like this video
Yeah that's the wheelhouse of that tool for sure!
Fastcap yellow (Metric & Imperial). I keep a small one in the car, and the longer one in the shop. Didn't like the gray one (Metric) cause my wife kept telling it was broken as it didn't measure correctly so she threw it out. Love my Pentel 5mm and 9mm mechanical pencil's. I have an old Sears reversible socket end screw driver in my quick kit. Works fantastic.
Great tips, always enjoy your product.
Unrelated to this video but not sure where else to ask, what brand and size is your CNC machine. Looking for input for my research prior to making an investment. Thanks.
Great Video Sir
Thanks
I have a telescopic magnet with a small built in LED light. It's great for when you drop screws into small places to retrieve them or like I do quite often I drop screws or metal parts into the pile of sawdust under my lathe
Ooohhhh I need to check that out! I just put a magnet on a dowel rod and hope for the best 🤣
Same here!
All you have to do to magnetize something like a screwdriver is rub the tip with a magnet. No idea how you would reverse it (or why you'd want to). lol
I love the Amana countersink but one drawback I've found is the rotating wheel sometimes gets in the way because of it's size ... especially when you've got things clamped up. Then I need to drag out the old school countersinks. My go-to tape measure is a small, yellow 10-footer from (I think) Stanley. Very pocketable without being bulky and completely accurate.
Yeah the small Stanleys are nice pocket tapes. And I agree why would you unmagnetive any tool! 🤣
You can magnetize a screwdriver with....... a magnet. Any powerful rare earth magnet will work. Speaker magnets work pretty good since they're large. Just draw the tip along the magnet in the same direction. Done
Try the Crescent “Nites Eyes” 8’ tape measure & you’ll never go back. The 8’ tape is the perfect size for furniture making & fits easily in your apron pocket. If you need a longer tape, they also make a 16’ version. Both are very tough & keep you from hauling around more tape than you need. The “Nite Eyes” feature was a game-changer for me.
I have the 25' Nite Eye and its nice. Not sure I'd ever need glow in the dark in my shop, but it's great for outdoor projects.
@@MWAWoodworks I like the “Night Eye” feature since the marks are easy to read, probably since it offers a bold color contrast with most species of wood. I never benefit from (or use) the glow in the dark feature. It’s the large numbers, compact size (8’) & contrasting color between the tape & stock that have made this measure a game-changer for me.
Roll your pencil as you make your line. Helps to keep your point
How about one of those tweezers with the magnifying glass built in. General used to make em but my latest one is a Chineesium. Best implement for splinter removal ever.
Re: pencils; a technique I learned in drafting class is to always roll the pencil when making a line. This wears the lead evenly, keeping your line a more consistent thickness and keeping the lead sharp.
Brother, you gotta get a Komelon Self Lock tape measure. They come in all lengths. My favorite for years and very inexpensive. Great video thanks!
I have one now! It's in my truck. I love that thing!
look into a komelon touch lock tape measure. I always have one in my pocket it also has a magnet on one side. I purchased mine from Menards.
Never heard of it I'll have to check it out!
Vix bits are an absolute necessity!
Solid recommendations!
Good video. Thansk. On the 1-2-3 blocks, they are used for on your table saw, to provide exact inch measures from your fence. So, you are crosscutting, and usually people will grab a piece of wood and place against the fence, push the wood up against it, and then push your piece through the blade. Well, 3/4” wood is not always 3/4”. However, these block will always be 1”. So use it as a stand off, or provides you for an exact measurement if you want a first cut, and then want it to be 4 inches, stack the blocks and you will have 4” exactly.
I had one of those quad edgers (came with my workshop), didn't know what it was.
I think the de-magnetizer would be for working on techie stuff like laptops which can be destroyed by magnets. I don't know for sure. I'm not smart. Just remember hearing something about magnets and puters don't mix. I've been chompin' at the bits to get self centering and countersink. I had to stop spending money on stuff I can only use outside. No room for storing. May not ever get a little shop. Also, no time for woodworking, which I love because I have too much yardwork and housework. So I bought a cotton candy machine to entertain myself. But I still feel a super crazy need to do woodworking designs. I'd settle for making a nice, big, weatherproof cart for my 28" monstrosity of a cotton candy machine. I can see scrollwork with my scrollsaw then I have to shut my ideas down for now because everything comes in its time if it is meant to be. I love all these suggestions. Thanks.
I always use a H3 Pencil. If you you really need a fine point, just sharpen it. After a rough use it will stay at a wideness like the pica. And you can use it at construction wood or even bricks. Find your sweet spot. Only downside is that if you go harder the line will have less contrast and it will dent the material so the line remains if you make a false line or a marking.
I’ve been subscribed to your channel for a while now. I enjoy your wit and delivery. I’ve started going back through your old stuff and stumbled across this video. I know the demo with the Kreg hinge jig was to emphasize the Vix bits, but are you aware of the two screw pilot holes that are under the cage when you remove it from the base? Just have a second drill set up with a 1/16” bit set to appropriate depth and you don’t have to worry about lining up your hinge out of square. If you knew this great, but if any of your followers didn’t know this then great also. 😊
Yep that's true. Thanks for pointinging that out.
Critter paint spray gun. It's cheap if you already have a compressor. Easy to clean and puts down a nice finish with either paint or poly.
Like others I use the 1-2-3 blocks for clamping and helping to check I have sides at right angles.