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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 พ.ค. 2024
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I felt like being a little snarky today. Because sometimes it's fun. And because sometimes you need to remind people that tips and tricks are great in a pinch, but practical advice can get distorted on social media. So, here are 5 tips that youtube woodworkers give that professionals generally don't use. Hope this is helpful.
Thanks for watching! If you enjoyed this video please consider supporting my channel by subscribing and hitting that notification bell. It really helps small channels like mine.
This video was sponsored by Brilliant.
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Items I use in this video (some are affiliate links which help sponsor this content):
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Blue Tape: amzn.to/3Cna2Um
Double Stick Tape: amzn.to/3X6p6zA
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Seisso Wax Sticks: amzn.to/3N5PN2w
Mixol Universal Tints: amzn.to/3X18JnA
TransTint Dye: amzn.to/3Pbsh6X
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Items I keep on hand in the shop:
Glue:
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Sharpening:
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My Finish Mix:
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Liberon Finishing Oil: amzn.to/3kXkIEf
Danish Oil (alternative): amzn.to/3Njlabs
Liberon Beeswax: amzn.to/3Jm2yFN
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Mineral Spirits (alternative): amzn.to/3oKU83h
TotalBoat Epoxy:
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the rubio monocoat bit sounds like paid shills on social media.
I would love to see a video on the different finishes that professionals actually use. I already use your finish and it looks and feels great.
I agree. But in actuality; all finishes are the same; grain sealer, stain, polyurethane.
@@steveschultz300 I don’t follow. How are all finishes the same? 🤨
Most professionals utilize spray lacquer or shellac due to not requiring sanding between coats, quick cure times, ease of spray, and protection quality.
Finish there is always a choice but most common in my shop is oil finishes. Poly is hard to fix and maintain, oil and wax is best for quality furniture as maintenance is easy and they look and feel great. Other shops will make other items where my finishes wont make sense.
@@steveschultz300😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅
But... You are a TH-cam woodworker
I worked in a professional shop and we definitely used stains. There were tints added to the lacquer depending on the finish, but stains were almost always used
Just a comment on the CA glue and tape trick. As a luthier, I use a ton of custom router setups with very tight tolerances. Using the CA glue (medium) and tape trick, without the accelerator, gives me time to position the components that double stick tape does not.
Good point, yes I can see how that would make things easier for you.
100% - I'm also a luthier, I also don't use accelerator & never had any of the problems mentioned here honestly
Id love to see a video on using wood fiber to repair gaps. As a begginer I always tend to mis-cut something in my projects
Pretty sure he means re-cut the joint so it just fits properly.
@MrDaneBrammage , Re-cutting the joint is what you might call the "nuclear option". I can't speak for ENCurtis, nor can I speak to what professionals do, but depending on the situation you can often fill a small gap with small piece of wood- anything from a shaving on up. You may not be able to match the grain direction, but you _can_ often get to something that the eye just skips over. If you're anything like me, _you_ will see it, but nobody else will.
Avoid unnecessary gadget's is another great thing. I worked for a small busy cabinet shop and there were supplier reps that would come a few times a year to try to sell them gadgets often that didn't save time and could be made in under 5 minutes from scrap.
You had me at the blue tape/CA trick vs. actual double sided tape, intrigued me at the dubiousness of slab stabilizing steel channel, then you REALLY had me at Rubio Vs Osmo. So true how these things were launched and perpetuated by social media, so called woodworking experts. LOVE the nod to shellac (I use 30-50% cut Sealcoat almost exclusively as a sanding sealer for near all finishes) and the thinned poly for a really nice hand rubbed finish. THEN, you sealed the deal with the glue and sawdust "trick" (nearly always not the best solution). Finally, using dyes vs. stains is something that really changed my finishing game several years ago. Great stuff man - really appreciate the straight talk!
Bold blanket statement there. "No professional does X." I'd like to hear your definition of professional then. I define it as someone that is consistently accomplished at their craft.
Fair point. Perhaps I should have stated that there are simply other options available. Not intending to yuck anyone's yum over here.
Congratulations on getting published! As an amateur woodworker, I have come to realize that there is a lot of information out there that is not necessarily "wrong," but misleading or only one option. I appreciate videos like these. I would definitely love to hear more about finishing. I feel that is one of my biggest weaknesses.
Yes! Please do a video about finishing techniques! There's so much differing info out there that it's quite hard to grasp what's actually going on and what options I have, especially when adding color in finishing.
Yoh! The internet is so bad a person can't celebrate and talk to us about an achievement without defending it?
Congrats dude, hope you get more awards
Thank you brother. I really appreciate that man.
I think your next accolade is going to be an award for how amazing that impression of me was. 10/10. 👏
I practiced for days to get that just right 😂
Congratulations on your denominator!! 😂
You deserve it!!
You’re videos are so helpful in my woodworking journey. You give invaluable advice and I love the attention to detail and the subtleties in your work that puts you a cut above many others that are there.
Thank you for not being a typical TH-camr!
Hobby luthier here. The problem with many kinds of double-sided tape is: sticky residue. I quickly abandoned carpet tape, went on to try a half dozen other brands that promised "no residue", and was disappointed. I resorted to the CA glue & blue tape trick, although I'm not in love with it. Recently I got a tip from a professional luthier on a brand of double sided tape that he uses, and it works without leaving a mess. In any case, there are many luthiers who make their living by building musical instruments, and who DO use the CA glue / blue tape trick.
I stumbled upon using extra double sided tape I had from those window insulation kits. It’s narrow, doesn’t leave residue, and is easy to roll up and remove from surfaces. It’s also very thin.
@@jimmer411 Mike Potvin of Potvin Guitars (Ottawa, Ontario) made me aware of this tape.
Excellent video. I’ve never liked the glue and sawdust gap filler. Never looked clean to me. I do however use stain. Mostly because I’ve never learned how to use dyes properly. So, a video on this would be helpful.
yeah glue and sawdust is just a quick fix, i find it doesn't harden properly either and certainly doesn't add to the wood's strength.
Congratulations on your recognition by the Fine Woodworking magazine. You are a true artist! I enjoy watching you talk about not so obvious details like uneven spacing of the dovetails or not using the router for rounding the edges.
I love this video... that's the one thing I really hate about social media, that some companies are obviously exploiting it to make their product seem like it's the one and only solution
As a contemporarily educated woodworker (meaning i learned from youtube) I am guilty of every one of these. I'd love to see a video of how you use dye in your finishing process
I would appreciate if you could do a segment on finishes including tints. I really enjoy your segments and thank you for taking the time to publish them. Also congratulations on making it in Fine Woodworking.
Store your tape in a freezer bag. The air will dry out the glue. Keeping it in a bag protects this happening.
Definitely would love a video on tinting/coloring wood.
And maybe an example of how they look or are used. Or results you can get.
Im a hobbyist that turned to building full time a few years back. I love all of this, and have found that I learned a lot of these as I moved to a production mindset. I would LOVE to see a video on toning. I have messed with mixing water-based dye with water based poly, but haven’t found a method that is up to my standard wet. Mixol was fine but I felt it ended up muddy.
Congrats on FWW, thats a dream of mine, though Im a horrible writer.
Hey Michael, I noticed your comment/question. I do quite a bit of tinting of shellac, oils, waxes & other clear finishes etc., to adjust the tone & sometimes to color of a project. I do not see a lot of videos about this, not under this “woodworking” category. Many channels have adopted a “stain is a lie” attitude and so they avoid all dyes & tints too. Lol.
I love the natural look of wood grain & the beauty of exotic wood too; however, I also think being able to alter a woods look, by fuming, ebonizing, or dyeing, just means the recipients of my projects can enjoy real wood furniture in more places, in their homes, and have my piece’s blend in with the furnishings they already have.
I have also seen some amazing results from dyes on guitars and other instruments. You’ll never open a tree and see orange sunburst, Lol. but, a bright colorful finish like that, done well, on a lathe turned vase or handmade guitar, can be beautiful.
That, brings me to my suggestions for you, for where you may find some videos you’ll enjoy , until Erik C, posts his finishing video and includes tinting and toning. (I just found and I am enjoying his channel).
My first recommendation is to search, right here on YT, for Keda Aniline Dye, Keda Alcohol Dyes & TransTint for ideas, techniques and to see examples or dye tinting, toning, or coloring.
Secondly, you may try searching homemade guitars and instrument videos, as I have found a lot of information on those kind of channels, tinting, dyeing etc, and also great ideas for pore & grain filing and hiding blemished and gaps.
Hope that helps some. Good luck . ~Lisa ⚒️♿️
PS personally I love using a little tinted shellac- as a sanding sealer first, to see how my dye color mix is looking, and then layering it on a piece, until the surface has as much depth of color, as I like, before switching to clear shellac.
This same trick works when you want to change a woods tone, like orange tinted shellac on walnut before finishing with a clear coat. Or, blue/purple tinted shellac on Purple Heart before a clear protective finish. 👍🏽
I saw Nick Pedulla , John Melecki uses blue tape glue and activator instead double stick tape. I think they are professionals.
From Tage Frid on down... the contributing editors/authors of Fine Woodworking taught me how to do so much. Before Google and TH-cam were around there was Tauton Press. Their books and of course Fine Woodworking was the benchmark. Congrats on making it. It for sure puts you in the league of Frank Klaus, Jim Toplin and ALL the other great woodworking educators.
Try Furniture and Cabinetmaking from the UK. I used to think Fine Woodworking was the pinnacle of wood magazines, but Furniture and Cabinetmaking is way more about professionals doing the work than articles targeting hobbyists.
Love the "new" ideas! Always great hearing different ideas instead of mirroring what everyone else is saying. Thanks!
First of all, congratulations on being published...That's a GREAT achievement! Secondly, yes, I'd like to see a video on finishes...specifically on the colorant/tint methods. Thank you for the instructional videos. You share A LOT of helpful information, and you have a great attitude & character for doing it. Please keep it coming!
Recently discovered your channel and enjoy your conversational tone. I, for one, would enjoy seeing more finishing techniques - it's my woodworking weakness
I have to agree with you on the wood glue and saw dust filler. People need to keep that in their back pocket for those expensive hardwoods. I made a recipe card box out of purple heart and red heart and had to use the glue and dust trick to fill small gaps in the finger joints that way i had a harder to see fill
I added brown trans tint to a waste ash slab turned into a primitive small bench. Holy cow did the grain turn into something amazing. Didn't use a lot, but the result was astounding! It got sucked into the grain where it should. Just enough to make it POP!!! Happy Father's Day to y'all.
Going to try this on my stoop from my house to the garage since I’m using maple hardwood flooring.
Obligatory, and sincere, congratulations on the FWW recognition. Was pleased to see you as part of the group.
Several years ago when I was picking up turning a finish similar to yours, but with shellac instead of varnish, was pushed as the only way to properly finish bowls. It works, but like anything else, when it starts to turn cult-ish it removes the knowledge from the process. "Do this, you don't need to know why!" Keep including the why, it creates a better class of people.
You're either using way too much CA glue for the blue tape and CA glue trick, or your glue is too thick. I've been using this trick for years and never had it stick any more than the blue tape alone would. I found that thin glue (more liquidy) and a very small amount of it is all you need. Too thick or too much glue and it will spill outside of the tape area and stick to the wood. As for waiting for it to stick, it only takes 10-15 seconds without activator.
For the most part when someone says “ this is the only way” to do anything, or “this is THE best way” Or “how to do ( insert anything here) like a pro” I pretty much dismiss it. Like you have pointed out there are multiple ways of doing almost everything. Except stoping wood from moving. You have a new subscriber.
Yes man, a video on different finishes techniques would be great and congrats on the Fine Woodworking achievement 🤙
Thank you for making this! I have a roll of double sided masking tape (not carpet tape) in my shop and can't see how blue tape and CA is better in any way. Glad someone finally called this out. Also congrats on 'Fine Woodworking', I'll keep an eye out for that one.
I'm glad to see you brag on Shellac. I learned to love it a few years ago but people seem to think it's too old fashioned or something.
In fact, just yesterday at my local mom-and-pop wood place, the oldest man in the world told me that Shellac is outdated.
I already had a dislike for stain and only use it to match pre existing stuff for customers. I wasn't even aware that you could add color to a finish so I'm glad I watched this video.
Great video Erik, as someone who started picking up woodworking from social media this is really meaningful information for my journey.
I would love to see a video on alternative methods to filling gaps and one on finishes. Those would be helpful videos.
Agreed. He was so adamant that the glue/sawdust technique was ill advised that I was expecting a more thorough explanation of "adding wood fibers" to the gap. I can't picture what he means by this.
Finishing my kitchen has been my goal for the past 2 years, I can now brag that my kitchen has the most expensive 2x4s in history in it (Covid prices)
I am so glad you brought up shellac because it seems like no one knows about it or really uses shellac anymore. Shellac is an amazing and versatile finish!
Sage advice here. I've clicked the subscribe button. I haven't tried the Rubio Monocoat stuff, but have been seeing it a lot. I'm old, so stick with shellac (especially for things for the grandkids), thinned poly and tung oil varnish. These work well for me and are easily obtainable locally.
Thanks for another great thought provoking video Erik.
I’ve always wondered myself why blue tape and CA when double sided exists!
I’ve never come across ‘C’ channels but thanks for the heads up.
I’ll definitely investigate fillers though even though I used the glue and sawdust method only yesterday on a garden bench repair.
Please let’s have a video in colouring finishes.
Have a great day and see you on the flip side 😂
Would 100% dig seeing an additional video finishes you suggest/use. Thanks for your videos, as a new I am not quite there yet, but I am getting things to shoot for.
Like Cameron at Blacktail Studios, clamis..... "The C-channel helps negotiate with the wood, to minimize warping".
Now that is an excellent way to phrase it and I would agree fully. Kudos to Cam for framing the argument as such.
@ENCurtis Yes sir! Verbiage is everything, when dealing with "the internet". 🤣
I would definitely love a video on finishes - specifically dyes as colorants. I don't use stain. I work a lot with walnut, cherry and maple. I've tried using aniline dyes to pop the figure of maple, but have had ....limited.... success. I think it's something I'd very much like to have in my tool kit, so if you could do a video or two on how to use dyes I would love it! I am intrigued when you mentioned using a dye to stabilize the color of walnut. If you could expand on that, I would really appreciate it!
Congratulations on getting published! And a big thank you for dunking on TH-cam today. As an echo chamber, it really leaves hobbyists like me wondering what is good advice. So I appreciate and welcome your perspective. Cheers!
On stain: I think a lot of people think it's like winestain in a shirt. A winestain is really a dye that you don't want in your shirt. Like weeds are not bad, they're just plants that grow vigorously where you don't want them. Wood stain is, in fact, translucent paint that sits on the wood, not in it. It has its place if you use it like paint. Wood dye lets you colour the wood itself and add wax or French polish, clear varnish, or wood stain.
Great video! I really like that you don’t throw everything and everyone under the bus but instead presents alternatives and educate us. More elaborate opinions are not always easy to convey on TH-cam as most people are looking for a black or white answer, but I, for myself, prefer to live in a colourful world. Thanks.
Would love a video on using the dyes and other finish techniques.
A hearty congratulations on FWW.
First time I saw the blue tape and superglue trick was on a British guitarmaker's channel. If I recall correctly, the specific reason he had for doing it was that he had not been able to find double-stick tape that would release easily from the wood without leaving chunks of tape and residue behind. For him, at least back then, it wasn't about using what you have or saving money. Since then it has morphed into a ridiculous internet "miracle solution" thing.
Yes, that's Ben Crow of Crimson Guitars.
Another UK guitar builder, Mark Bailey (a lot less well known, but he's been teaching people to build guitars longer than Ben has been building them) faced the same problem but the solution he found was double sided tape that is specifically certified for use on the floor in the National Exhibition Centre in the UK. It's formulated to keep things firmly in place for a week while a show is going on and then to be ripped up by workmen at high speed without damaging the floor or leaving residue... which it turns out also works for holding a routing template firmly in place and leaving a clean undamaged surface when you're done.
It seems in the US suitable double sided tape is more common for some reason, so the "masking tape and superglue trick" (our standard masking tape is not blue) makes less sense over there.
Hey! I learned that from Crimson Guitars too! Ben said he picked it up from an apprentice. I also prefer this to double sided tape. No fiddling with separating the non-stick layer and no residue. Also holds better when surfaces are rough.
Congrats on the publication.... Full respect! 👍🏻
Im old school, but use all different types of finish on my projects, Danish oil, libberon finishing oil, linseed and shellac being the most common... Like I say old school...
I love the process of French polishing, it's cathartic...
no other finish that I've ever used gives such flexability in its ability to be restored or repaired the way shellac and French polishing does.
It's a finish that so many people are scared of and I never understand why.... 🤷🏼♂️
Once you've French polished something that you've made, you've so much more affinity with it... Its like you've put a piece of your soul into it!
Keep the vids coming my friend, TV never goes on any more in my house since discovering your TH-cam channel.... 👍🏻 Love it 😉
My dad had a refinishing - refurbishing shop when I was growing up. I worked in it for years. We did a lot of mahogany finishing for a local furniture factory. He always sprayed the materials we finished with. His stains were all hand blended to match the exact color the customer wanted. We sprayed glaze to bring out grain and filler to fill the grain for slick finishes. He used all low sheen to high sheen lacquer. Sometimes he would oil sand with up to 6000 grit paper between multiple coats. It was a fantastic way to grow up. Good video and I am now subscribed to your channel.
Congratulations on the publication in FWW. That’s a really special and well deserved milestone.
Good points. I was chuckling about the blue tape. Yesterday I was teaching my nephew how to use double sided tape to drum sand small parts without launching them across the shop and I mentioned blue tape/CA glue as a less desirable alternative. Double sided tape is “old school”. 🤘🏼
I'm in both camps. There is one process in which the painter's tape + CA glue trick is the undisputed king, and it's pattern routing of very small pieces (star knobs, f.i.). If screws are not an option, it just can't be beat.
@@DrMackSplackem And, you're a Luthier? I attended Roberto-Venn in 2000. Yeah, on small items the adhesive can stretch causing the pattern to shift slightly out of alignment. Is that why you prefer tape and CA for the small parts?
@@whitepawwoodworks You could say so. I think with small parts, it's mostly a matter of being able to vary the amount of adhesive by intuition; I have a jig with a clear acrylic top that has a bolt running through it from above. The star knob (or knobs) is/are bolted underneath, with the pattern on top. It seems any double-sided tape that would work for this, and not spin the parts off-kilter while being processed, is more destructive upon removal than the painter's tape trick (aided by a dull kitchen knife).
Oh, also, I have built a few guitars but wouldn't call myself a luthier. I hope that helps!
I've been so against staining some mahogany for a project I'm currently doing but the wife wants a darker color. I've thought about aniline dyes and would love to see a video about that and other options to showcase the wood and grain patterns instead of just staining over them. Especially with complimenting and changing the shades of the wood with unintuitive colors like green on mahogany to tone down the natural red.
I have a magazine rack that I built out of walnut and mahogany. The Mahogany is now darker than the Walnut. The Walnut has probably not darkened very much while the Mahogany Has darkened a lot.
I couldn't agree more with every one of your 5 points. I've been at this since i did my apprenticeship from 1972-1976. And like you, my go to finish is the 3 part oil/poly/solvent mixture. I enjoy your channel.
Can’t express enough how much I enjoy your videos. You have become my favorite woodworker to watch and I am subscribed to a lot! Keep doing what you are doing. Your work and instruction is highly informative and amazing entertaining.
Great video! You asked, so I’m answering: I’d love to see a video about using Mixol/tints with other finish instead of stains. I’ve not seen many good videos on TH-cam describing these more professional grade finishing techniques. …although I may stick to Osmo and Rubio anyway because of how easy they can be and due to my lack of spray equipment. Who knows what the future holds though
Fwiw I like mixing TransTint dyes into first coat of Rubio (or any other finish), especially to level green/purple/yellow/brown variation of air dried Walnut. I used to mix with denatured alcohol and apply first, now I skip that additional step and just mix with first coat of finish in the interest of labor management. Works well for me.
I will just say that the sawdust and woodglue thing is not a youtuber trick. My uncle and grandpa have been woodworking for a hundred years combined (also built 3 houses and all the millwork/cabinets/tables in them) and I saw them using the sawdust trick 30 years ago
One of the markers I really hold on to is another wood worker having enough confidence in me telling someone else "Oh yea Mike can do that for you no problem". It seems simple and off the cuff but at the time it meant a lot to me and huge confidence boost I needed.
Great advice! I had wondered about a few of these, so thanks for breaking it down so thoroughly.
Please do a video about stain alternatives.
I hate staining so much 🙏 Would also be great to see more videos like this where you debunk social media trends for woodworking.
Use dyes, like TransTint, General Finishes or Mohawk Finishes. They don't obscure grain like stains. You can mix TransTint powder dyes with distilled water or alcohol. Alcohol gives you the benefit of less grain raise than water. Not a huge deal either way. Plus, you mix dyes with finishes as a toner to even out the patina.
#1 02:16 - CA Glue & Blue Tape
#2 4:22 - Using C Channel to keep a slab flat
#3 6:24 - Rubio Monocoat
#4 11:00 - Yellow Glue & Sawdust Dust gap filling trick
#5 13:25 - No professional furniture maker uses stain
Thank you for the blue tape comment! I’ve been woodworking for around a year now and watching all these videos I was starting to question my sanity on why people don’t just use double sided tape?! Like isn’t that what it’s designed for? Great points!
Except, not all double sided tape is equal and some can be either too easy or too hard to remove, leave residue, etc. Nothing is perfect 100% of the time, but people develop bias and a bad experience can drive people to alternatives even when they're just trading off the compromises and issues for different ones...
I’ve been getting Fine Woodworking for decades. So congrats getting there. It’s a very fine mag as are all that company’s mags.
This problem is not just in woodworking. It’s in the metal working area as well. One person, well known, though may not have the most subscribers, but who has gotten a reputation, sometimes deserved, begins to use something and says how great it is. So TH-camrs, who are like lemmings, immediately begin to use it and say how great it is. Many times I’ve tried the things and found that they were ok, but not really great. Sometimes, they are inferior and inappropriate. But you can’t say anything because you’re told that so and so uses it and they wouldn’t if it weren’t what they say. It can be hopeless.
I can tell you why the tape and superglue thing is sometimes better than double stick tape (though I don't know what blue tape is) Double stick tape is REALLY sticky and, depending on your wood, might tear out wood fibres... the tape I use is a lot less sticky and I never had that issue while using double stick tape I did
And (depending on the tape) double-sided can be significantly thicker than two strips of masking tape!
Congratulations on the FWW! Definitely well deserved! Good points throughout - the CA glue and blue tape is definitely irritating. I don’t think people realize they are spending just as much on doing that as they would double stick tape.
Thanks brother! And yes, CA glue is not cheap, especially with accelerator. But for some reason the thought pattern continues.
I’ve had DS tape break apart during a CNC carve but never CA glue. Just saying
@@banjerlegs3051 I’ve used both and had different issues with both. I prefer just clamping it
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork clamping is the best!
Thanks for the video, very nice! As a french professional woodworker, I can tell you almost every modern french worshop uses the Rubio oil !!! I also know quite a lot of worshops that prefer using stain and then a clear finish since it highlights the grain and you lessen the risk of killing the contrast and definition of grain. I guess there’s a lot of other regional differences but I thought you would find it interesting. Good work and bravo for your publication!
Yes, I agree. Same here in England.
I would absolutely enjoy a video on the dyes you use. I’m not a fan of staining my pieces, but am interested in the products you mentioned.
Being published in Fine Woodworking, is in my opinion, a very major marker for a woodworker and a great lifetime accomplishment. I noticed your bio the other day as I eagerly devoured the new edition. Congratulations. I would really love to learn more about your technique for using the dyes (or whatever is the proper designation :) in your finishes. Thanks!
Thank you! And noted!
@@ENCurtis I didn’t pay attention to the latest fww but now am going to reread it. Congratulations 👏
It is so much more expensive to use CA glue and tape vs Double stick tape. I would love to see the mix all/tint video so I can learn to steer away from staining.
Great video. You hit all the ones that I fell for as the only way to do it. Hope to see more finishing vids.
"Senior hobbyist" woodworker here. (Think Norm Abram era.) Mostly furniture and turning in my rep. THANK YOU. Brilliant video . . . heh heh. Seriously, every tool has two edges. For all you can learn on TH-cam, it also has no filter in terms of technique. You have to have enough proper experience to know when what you're seeing is suboptimal, leads to buried bodies, or is downright BS. This is just great--I hope you get a million views on this. ps: General Finishes tung oil and urethane is my favorite finish.
In the 1980's when I was in high school, I mostly used walnut stain on oak and most other light woods. In the 90's I used the (much easier to use) gel stains to the same effect. But at the turn of the century where I now had a family and was making furniture for it, I stopped using stains entirely. Besides being less expensive, I figured: Why not just showcase the original wood color, whatever it actually is?
I agree with just choosing wood but it's color for the desired outlook you want. I'll never understand people saying they have cherry kitchen cabinets when we all know it's actually maple stained cherry. Why? I use cherry very often, just make it from cherry.
I agree, but I also have chairs made from beech wood from the Sixties, and they’re stained or tint-finished or whatever to match the rest of my parents’ dining room, which had a walnut vibe. Technically the chairs are German knock-offs of Danish mid century design pieces, but the quality is excellent, and they look great. I don’t like beech for furniture, that means I’m going to go for walnut when I will finally find the time for a much needed refinish. So while I’m generally not a fan, coloured wood does have its place.
Congratulations man :) its pretty awesome to be recognised! i expirienced it my self, as i was nominated and won best colleague by a coworker :) it feels good to be recognised for something that you care about!
Awesome video, i really enjoyed it
Thank you!
I basically never comment on anything but I subbed after watching the first 3 minutes, This video reminds me of all the times people have told me me that mold release spray is a scam because you can just spend half an hour putting masking tape up a form as opposed to using a spray product that costs like $7.... Dat scam
Definitely want to see a finish tinting video! Congrats on making Fine Woodworking!
Unfortunately 90 percent of the tips on TH-cam are purely about money . Unfortunately TH-camrs have become pushers of tools and accessories purely because of money . I get it making money is what this country is about . But unfortunately it has gone so commercial that new woodworkers are overwhelmed and buy all this crap because someone with several thousand subs says you need it .
Please don't listen to this person. Just because he is in some magazine for old people doesn't mean he knows how to do anything better than anyone else at the same skill level."youtube" doesn't teach anything. Good people who have a lot of knowledge use youtube to teach people. Stop worrying about how everyone else isn't doing things the way this person thinks they should be done.
You’re not wrong. I don’t know how to do anything better than someone of the same skill level. Can’t argue that point.
#4: miter gap fixes, the endless struggle. Blaugh. Meanwhile, congrats on the FW article. Several decades ago I got a small piece published in Fine Homebuilding's Annual issue and it was a real pleasure showing that to family and friends. Kudos to you.
The blue tape and ca glue trick is what I use 99% of the time over double stick tape - which I also have and use. However, for my CNC and what I’m doing on my CNC, the blue tape and ca glue has much more sheer strength for the material I am cutting than any of the double stick tapes I have. I do use double stick tape for other things - temporary stops for example. Each has its perfect spot in my shop!
This was perfect!! It’s so hard to find ideas outside things like you’re describing. Great points
Good stuff - first ENCurtis video I've seen (and I subscribed) - would love to see a video on using analine dyes (or other tints) in finishes, especially to make figured wood grain stand out
Another incredible video. I appreciate the topics you choose and your teaching method. Congrats on being published.
Thank you, you have given me a lot to think about. Please do more of this and more In depth.
Congratulations on your publication 🍻 great video very helpfully and would love to see a video on the tints you showed at the end and how to use them
Congratulations on your Fine Woodworking feature! Thank you for making this video (and all others, too) - finally someone interrupts the SM echo chamber. Fantastic content and fantastic craftsmanship; keep it up!
Please, more of these tips.
Whole video of finishing would be great (already saw your vid on mixed finishes - your own batch).
I have to make an observation about your C- channel part. The C-channel can stop a piece of wood from cupping. I think what needs to be mentioned though is how it is attached. For instance, I have made many tables in the past and have learned that with angle iron (c-channel included) if you use coach bolts through the wood and a nut under, the wood usually won’t cup or bow. However if you use just screws from underneath, then yes you are correct as the pressure applied by the wood is greater than the strength of the screws. The pressure that wood can apply is seldom stronger than a bolt (depending on the bolt size). Keeping that in mind, I have seen a few table using c-channels with nuts and bolts to keep the wood from moving and then they have either put an inch (roughly 30mm) plug of a contrasting wood over the bolt head. I do believe that this is where the internet has gotten confused about the use of the c-channel.
All humour aside - Huge shout out. What an honor to be published in FineWoodworking. I started reading Fine Woodworking in the 80s when it was still a large format black and white publication. That magazine inspired me to become a professional woodworker. Well done.
Loved this!
You are correct about the CA Glue and the Blue Tape.. I have tried this after watching a few TH-camrs talking about this and I have really made a few huge messes etc..
A formula I've been working with a lot lately for walnut: Shellac, then red Glaze, then Tongue Oil. Takes a little time for it to dry between coats, but the results are absolutely stunning and rich...looks like museum quality furniture.
Nice job Mr. Prius. Think your video's are extemely helpful to people. Your perspective eye and talent are second to none. Congrats on being in Fine Woodworking. Learned this craft from my uncle who was a machinist and no nonsense woodworker. I remember this comment "if you need wood filler or shim you REDO IT BOY". Semper Fi bud.
Says he's not going to throw the fellow TH-camr under a bus. Proceeds to throw the fellow TH-camr directly under a bus with a condescending impression.
I found the part on C-channel a bit miss leading. I disagree with you on this one. Or I felt it was incomplete and deserves more attention. If you don’t like the c-channel I am curious what your thoughts are on breadboard ends on a table? I agree with you that if wood REALLY wants to move it will win but in order to do so it must overcome any forces resisting it, such as a c-channel or a breadboard end on a table. Therefore if there is subtle movement, do to season humidity it will help keep your table flat. It can only help keep your table flat for normal seasonal movement but it will never save you from improperly dried lumber.
I'd really enjoy your offering on finishing techniques and alternatives. Thank you
Noted!
Congrats on the publication! The blue tape method comes because everyone is sponsored by Starbond and they show it all the time. Great video, thanks for sharing.
Congratulations on your achievement! That’s a true testament of your level of craftsmanship; thank you for sharing that with us!!
We use Rubio Monocoat and Osmo all the time. They are our go to finishes.
This is a great video with a lot of honest discussion and very good points and explanation. I did have one minor dispute with the point about c channel. To be clear I am not a furniture maker and don’t think I have ever made a table for a customer. But I work as a cabinet maker and have for several decades in some very large shops as well as some small ones. I really dont do much solid stock work but do a ton of casework. Sometimes we would get roped into doing a slab for the island. We would always route in steel stock. But it was never there to keep the top flat which seems to be the public perception. It was to help pick up the load of the overhang on the back of the island. It gave us a point to bolt it down on the other side to prevent tipping. The top staying flat was more a factor of our grain selection. The steel was there to help pick up the load on the overhang which at time was hundreds of pounds for large tops . Usually there would be decorative or more functional brackets under the overhang but depending on the job and layout those brackets may not always be where the weight really needs them. Lots of times the back of the island is simply a finished panel which may not be very structural too. The steel was cheap insurance for when the over hang is piled with stuff and the kids decide to hang on it. Also nice that it made it less of an issue if a joint was going to fall right at the back of the case. It has been pretty common in my cabinet making career. That may be where the notion of it came from, but it was never about cupping, it is about attachment and structure. Not sure why it would be necessary for a table as you point out. Not sure why c channel is talked about so much either, most of the time we used square stock.