Subscribed... I currently run a ‘13 JKU Rubicon with the upgrades stated in a previous comment and Poison Spyder Brawler flat fenders (brand new $400...instead of $1,300), 2004 TJ with the stock suspension off of my Rubicon and 33” BFG KO3 but I gave that to my 19 year old son (good kid) and a 1999 XJ with Dodge half ton axles (free) with trusses, C-gussets, disc brakes, 20” Fox Nitrogen shocks (rear), 4” XJ lift springs and BDS shocks mounted on a custom 3 link! The rear is a double triangulated 4 link and everything has 1.25” Chrome Moly heims from Ballistic Fab! Home fabbed bead locks with 38” Nitto Mud Grapplers and “custom paint” custom bumpers, sound system, fuel system and full hydro steering! Next in line is a ‘78 J-10 with the 360, granny gear 4-speed that will soon have EFI and 35” boggers for a trail bomber and possibly an S-10 I have with the stock XJ axles, built 4.3 on LPG and a 5-speed for the kids to throttle on! I have those exact brackets on my XJ and everything worked out perfect and she flexes big time!
Yeah watched on headphones at work and had to constantly change the volume. That's inherent with any new process. But nice build 👍thanks for going into detail
@@mallcrawleroffroad-brandon9298 do you have quality headphones? They make a huge difference! My 3M bluetooth earmuffs distort and have no bass(made to protect your hearing) Samsung bluetooth wireless earbuds have clearer distortion free sound.
I really enjoy your videos, keep them coming. For what it's worth, I used to hate cleaning cutting oil my metal. I always wipe down with acetone before welding, but the oil was especially a pain. Visiting with my machinist friends, they mentioned for all of the shop work us Fabricators do, we can use water as a coolant/lubricant and it is more than enough. I've been doing so for years now and it is awesome. I use a Dental squeeze bottle with a pickup tube and it works awesome. Water for all bandsaw and drill press. And its evaporated by the time I got the millscale flapdisced off. So oil never contaminates my gloves, weld table, flapdiscs, drillpress, etc.
Every time I watch one of your videos I get more & more impressed , the amount of knowledge you share on top of the fact your doing all this by yourself is simply overwhelmingly Fantastic 👏 By far one of the best channels on TH-cam Nate !!!! Thank you .....
I've watched a lot of suspension videos on here and you did a superb job of simplifying all the terminology and math that most people get hung up on. You made the right choice splitting off on your own. Teach brother teach...
I just binge-watched your entire channel and I have to say I am beyond impressed with your knowledge set and ability to communicate your process so simply. Man, I wish I could spend time working in your shop with you. Keep up the great work man. I hope to be on your level someday! Btw I am a Mechanical Engineer and I totally agree with the fact that theory will only get you so far. Real world experience like yourself is a true gem.
I'm happy to have you aboard! Your skills will be where you want them before you know it! We all could use a little more shop time lol. Thanks for watching, many more videos in the works 🤘
Beyond Impressed is right, I'm right here with you as I find myself glues to every second. I'm so down for some DIY projects on my Jeep, and this has to be one of the best channels out there, right along side #autoedits, and #Trailrecon.
Phosgene gas is created by combining heat and UV light, with Braklene and other solvents. You can die or have lifelong respiratory problems combining the two. Glad you mentioned it in your video. Even in a well ventilated area, this is a serious concern. Check your solvents for tetrachloroethylene- even a dose of 4 parts per million, as small as a puff of smoke can be fatal.
Low and good clearance is the way to go. This is your best build because it's what I would do. I got 35 on a stock height jk with flat fenders it's a billy goat and still can fit in an underground parking lot
Those 12 ton jack stands are a win. I use them not only on my crawler but they work killer for my tow rig as well. Thanks for another great video Nate 🤙
Nicely done and nicely explained. I'm glad you touched on the difference between theoretical vs practical concerns. There is a huge difference in theory between one-link, two, three, and four-link suspension designs. But like you say about your buddies designs. They work. Furthermore, I bet a skilled driver couldn't tell the difference in a blind test. I like you bolt in design. Makes it easier to fabricate, and more importantly it makes it easier to update later on.
Love the channel. The more of the measuring process you show the better...most videos just say “I measured “ but it really is informative to see what that actually entails. Keep up the awesome work!
Like I said when you Announced the Channel. Your Presentation is Great amd Your information flow Is easy going.This the way to convey ypur vision for this build.
Thanks for the inspiration. Been wanting to link my jeep. Shortly after watching this video I found myself bolting plate wild on the frame along with some brackets and tabs from rough stuff. You made it look easy and so far it has been. Thanks man and glad your doing your thing.
Can you differentiate jeep stretching. Other videos suggest cutting and adding length to the frame. With a 3 or 4 link it appears no chopping is necessary,and the stretch is all in the control arms. Love your suspension videos brotha.
just found your channel and have watched a few of your videos and I am really impressed with the detail you go into. I'm looking forward to watching a lot more of your stuff! I love watching the real fabrication processes that go into stuff like this. Keep up the great work!
I enjoyed the video, I actually have a 1979 Cherokee chief similar to your J truck, But its in the process of a 3 link front and 4 link rear, Its definitely a handful to do but I almost have the front buttoned up and going to start on the rear soon. I love the series so far
I like your style, I honestly believe professional builders keep a lot of secrets and my suspension setups seem like wizardry. It doesn’t have to be perfect or exact, and most of the time if you learn what works you can eyeball it.
I think you may be on to something with folks holding onto information. I think ideas are ment to be shared. The more I learn the more I want to share my new found knowledge. Maybe that's how I got into TH-cam in the first place. 👍
Dirt Lifestyle I really wish I had the patience to learn the video editing part of TH-cam. I built my XJ myself in my 2 car garage and learned a lot. But being in the military and a dad/husband takes a lot of my time.
Great job and lots of good info. The only thing that is wrong that I can see is, you NEVER want your differential pointing at the transfer case. That is a u-joint failure just waiting to happen. Most people don't seem to understand this. You want your differential at the exact same angle as your u-joint coming off of your transfer case. That is the way u-joints are designed to run. Same angles! I know this from my old drag racing days. I used to point the rear end at the back of the trany and couldn't understand why I couldn't keep u-joints in it. I was pulling 8000 rpm hole shots and snapping u-joints like nothing. The best u-joints money could by broke like glass. Then someone educated me. Keep the joints at the same angle! People thought Ford was retarded on some of their 3/4 ton 4x4s around early 1970s. They had the front differential actually pointing down toward the ground slightly. That was because the transfer case was pointing up slightly. The joints need to be at the same angle. That's why they did that. They weren't retarded after all. Learn from them and save yourself a lot of u-joint grief! Seriously!! Do some research if you doubt me. Other than that, I'm impressed!
Hey man I'm glad you're enjoying the videos! Let's talk about the issue you have with my U joint angle. "You never want your differential pointing at your transfercase". Unfortunately this is untrue. I will provide a link at the bottom of this comment for you to click on and see what I'm talking about. If one side of your driveshaft is a constant velocity joint, you want your pinion facing your t-case as much as possible. This gives you the most strength and the least vibration. Like most Jeeps, I have a cv joint on the tcase side of the driveshaft. But with u joints on both ends you are absolutely correct. Thanks for the comment! Conversations like these are important 👍 www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.com/angle-pictures/
This was a great video, I would love to see a detailed video on the int ital design of a link setup from a stock setup if you have any buddies that might be linking soon. This covered a lot of great information but coming from your last setup there isn't a lot of design changes. I'll keep watching and hope this channel grows for you, fantastic work as always.
Thanks for watching man! I'm holding off on the detailed link design video untill I have my links built. I want to try and show real world numbers with the suspension cycling on the Jack stands 👍
Another awesome video! As always can't wait to see the finished product! Also can't wait for the tore carrier video you talked about on Instagram! Just another thing to look forward to on Fridays!!
Nice work and well explained. I'd like to see a vid on DIY fume extraction solution. Or at least set up a box fan off to the side to blow the fumes off your head without affecting the shield gas. And BTW I like the music exactly the way you have it.
Great stuff man. Followed you from bleepin Jeep. I’m in the process of figuring out a setup I want on my k10.... not only for off-road use but for better drive ability bc the factory leafs are rough on the old back!!!! Mainly for the front and figure out a factory suspension I could use for better parts accessavility
Thanks buddy! I love those k10s and I might buy one eventually. I had a 79 K5 blazer back in the day. It was a pile of crap but i still enjoyed the shit out of it for some reason. Thanks for watching! Lots more videos on the way!
No problem! I’ll be sure to keep watching. The only problem is I’m on a deployment and all it makes me want to do is just dream dream and more dreaming
Ok I know I'm late to this video, but that crossmember system you created is badass. I have an xj on cavfabs 3 link system. You essentially created their crossmember system. So clearly you both got it right if it turned out the same lol.
Dope stuff man. Some of the best content you have put out ever. Stuff looks beefy for sure. Can't wait for a link video. sure it is on its way. To save a buck you might consider cutting a little off of your front coils. I understand if you aren't comfortable with that. Also your logo turned out super sick. Huge props brotha!
I think you're wrong about the shorter uppers keeping the pinion pointed correctly. I think sufficiently longer uppers will keep the pinion pointed upwards. Works that way on the rear of my Jeep.
Keep your thumbs away from steering wheel spokes on down hill descents. Loss of caster could apply heavy torque to the steering components, especially with large diameter tires.
@@coast.cutter7552 Why would I make this up? Quality control in china is nonexistent. If you got lucky and yours work than good for you. One of mine the latch is mounted crooked and it will fall randomly.
I stretched my YJ to 101" with waggy springs and using the furthest hole on the spring perch. Got me 2.5" of lift out of it, high lined my hood, and I'm running 35-37" tires on my LCoG lift and stretch. I remolded my factory fuel tank to fit the rear diff into it so I didn't have to do a custom fuel cell or relocate the tank. Running a Montero rear axle and a Waggy dana44 up front with Dodge outers so I could get the drag link to the top of the knuckles and away from the rocks. I'm still SUA and I don't want to do a SOA, as too may of my buddies have ruined the ride characteristics of their rigs trying to go SOA. I need to Fab up a ladder bar to keep from fragging my rear springs from running out in the dunes/snow and the rock trails I'm getting too much torque and eating u-joints. If you could dial back the Transformer Orgie Muzak, that would be great
You cant 4 link the front if you run a steering box. You will have crazy bump steer. thats why 3 links are best for streetable rigs. 4 links in the front usually for full hydro set ups.
This is a strange statement. Do you have an article or something to back this claim? There are millions of trucks, jeeps and SUVs with a 4 link front suspension and a steering box being sold OEM. I'm very interested in a source of this information. A 4 link and a 3 link have the exact qualities and characteristics. The only difference is a 4 link is stronger but they act identical in performance. Unless of course you can demonstrate otherwise.
@@DirtLifestyle my bad. I ment with full hiems or Jonny's on all ends I guess if you use rubber the track bar wount bind all the joints. I'm speaking rock buggy stuff my bad
You have an awesome Jeep. Great build. Thanks for all the info. You answer a lot of questions I have on my own build. Thank you very much. Your videos are the best. Keep them coming. I'm glad you started you own channel. Congratulations
Am I correct that your old front suspension system looked to be a radius arm style set up? I would be very interested to hear your thoughts on it and why you are changing to the 3 link set up. I LOVE your videos, everything about them is perfect, well filmed and very clear/informative. I'm looking at doing a 3 link/4 link set up in my Discovery 1 and these are helping me heaps! Thanks
Yes, the old suspension was radius arms. I ran it that way for almost a decade. Great system but it does have binding which slowly wears out bushings. I decided to upgrade the suspension to a 3 link to make the geometry right and decrease binding. Long term I'll be making my disco a 3 link front and 4 link rear. Very similar to the setup on my Jeep. Glad to hear the videos are helping you out!
Dirt Lifestyle Thanks for that, oh I look forward to seeing you link your Disco then. I’m not quite at the stage where it’s going to happen yet, as I’m wanting to swap out axles at the same time (actually to Discovery 2 axles!). Thanks 👍
Why am I just hearing about this channel? I've been subbed to Bleepin Jeep for years... Anyway, I think I'll check out more (this is what Bleepin Jeep used to do all the time)
Great video as usual. Here is a little p.s.a. for anyone who makes TH-cam videos: "orientate" is not a word. Braces, brackets, etc. cannot be "orientated". Just a heads-up gang. Wheel on brothers👍
See if you had just bought a Cherokee this wouldn’t have been an issue lol. I love my TJ’s if had over the years and yeah you can always go with a larger tire in the wranglers.. but it takes a stretched wrangler on 40’s and tons to go where even modest build Cherokees go. I equate it to the dame as picking a manual over an auto. When you’re crawling the auto is always gonna be better. We all know this. (At least those that climb things) hands down a Tacoma SAS or Cherokee can’t be beat. Why cause they already came with the proper wheelbase from the start. And this new unlimited are heavy pigs! Light, locked and long travel still rules.
Hey man I love your stuff..... I’m not really a Jeep guy except for the older ones, but I love both my square bodies..... now I have an idea I would like to pitch to you being you’re a great fabricator and mechanically knowledgeable...... I want to ad a 4 link setup to my k10 for driving comfort and a little off-road stuff from time to time(pretty basic) how do I determine the link of my link bars? The pan hard bar should be parallel to the tierod bar as much as possible for the least amount of bumpsteer just the links and placement of the links is what gets me.... I don’t want to set up for rock bouncing and maybe keeping the leafs......
Awesome video! I stretched my cj with waggy springs. However I want tj coils and links. I’ve just been hesitant about what kind of link setup to use. Your tj is sick. I think I’m steered close to 5 front and 6 rear. Without a Comp cut. I don’t like the comp cut
I'm with you! I don't like the look of a comp cut. When I trim the fendors to match the stretch I'm going to cut away as little as possible to hopefully avoid that look. We will see what compromises I will have to make lol
Roger that. I had to make a small fill plate that goes in front of the rear tire just to make the wheel well look normal. Like the rear wheel well kits they sell. I just added a plate that actually looks like part of my rear tube fender. And the rear springs I dropped the waggys and went to a set of Chevy 52” springs. So the rear shackles are on the rear bumper so I then tied that into the frame and added a few stiffner bars hahaha. All to keep that look looking smooth! I want links badly! But right now I’m going back to bucket seats as I had a small bench seat for years. Adding a ammo can console and moving my stereo msd box and cab to the big 50 cal ammo can. Then I would like to weld up an aluminum dash setup to clean up all the holes. Oh. Another issue I ran into on the rear stretch was the fuel tank. I had a 14 bolt so I moved to a fuel cell in the back. Also ditched the 14 bolt for an HD 35 spline rear 60. To match the front 60. Keep the videos going man. I’m subbed. And looking for more inspiration! So thank you!!
Great videos as always! How did you accomplish your current 3” front and 1” rear stretch? Did you have to relocate things or just simply extend the arms?
Subscribed... I currently run a ‘13 JKU Rubicon with the upgrades stated in a previous comment and Poison Spyder Brawler flat fenders (brand new $400...instead of $1,300), 2004 TJ with the stock suspension off of my Rubicon and 33” BFG KO3 but I gave that to my 19 year old son (good kid) and a 1999 XJ with Dodge half ton axles (free) with trusses, C-gussets, disc brakes, 20” Fox Nitrogen shocks (rear), 4” XJ lift springs and BDS shocks mounted on a custom 3 link! The rear is a double triangulated 4 link and everything has 1.25” Chrome Moly heims from Ballistic Fab! Home fabbed bead locks with 38” Nitto Mud Grapplers and “custom paint” custom bumpers, sound system, fuel system and full hydro steering! Next in line is a ‘78 J-10 with the 360, granny gear 4-speed that will soon have EFI and 35” boggers for a trail bomber and possibly an S-10 I have with the stock XJ axles, built 4.3 on LPG and a 5-speed for the kids to throttle on! I have those exact brackets on my XJ and everything worked out perfect and she flexes big time!
Hey please turn up your mic and turn down the music a little in your audio mix. Other than that...great video keep up the good work!
Yeah watched on headphones at work and had to constantly change the volume. That's inherent with any new process. But nice build 👍thanks for going into detail
This seems to be the biggest problem with youtubers. Varying volume throughout the video.
HEIGHT not heightHHHHH - It’s RIDE HEIGHT!!!!
@@mallcrawleroffroad-brandon9298 do you have quality headphones? They make a huge difference! My 3M bluetooth earmuffs distort and have no bass(made to protect your hearing)
Samsung bluetooth wireless earbuds have clearer distortion free sound.
I really enjoy your videos, keep them coming. For what it's worth, I used to hate cleaning cutting oil my metal. I always wipe down with acetone before welding, but the oil was especially a pain. Visiting with my machinist friends, they mentioned for all of the shop work us Fabricators do, we can use water as a coolant/lubricant and it is more than enough. I've been doing so for years now and it is awesome. I use a Dental squeeze bottle with a pickup tube and it works awesome. Water for all bandsaw and drill press. And its evaporated by the time I got the millscale flapdisced off. So oil never contaminates my gloves, weld table, flapdiscs, drillpress, etc.
Hope this helps
They explained our drill bits become chowdered before they actually dull from overheating or excessive pressure.
Every time I watch one of your videos I get more & more impressed , the amount of knowledge you share on top of the fact your doing all this by yourself is simply overwhelmingly Fantastic 👏 By far one of the best channels on TH-cam Nate !!!! Thank you .....
I've watched a lot of suspension videos on here and you did a superb job of simplifying all the terminology and math that most people get hung up on. You made the right choice splitting off on your own. Teach brother teach...
Thanks buddy!
I just binge-watched your entire channel and I have to say I am beyond impressed with your knowledge set and ability to communicate your process so simply. Man, I wish I could spend time working in your shop with you. Keep up the great work man. I hope to be on your level someday! Btw I am a Mechanical Engineer and I totally agree with the fact that theory will only get you so far. Real world experience like yourself is a true gem.
I'm happy to have you aboard! Your skills will be where you want them before you know it! We all could use a little more shop time lol. Thanks for watching, many more videos in the works 🤘
Beyond Impressed is right, I'm right here with you as I find myself glues to every second. I'm so down for some DIY projects on my Jeep, and this has to be one of the best channels out there, right along side #autoedits, and #Trailrecon.
Phosgene gas is created by combining heat and UV light, with Braklene and other solvents. You can die or have lifelong respiratory problems combining the two. Glad you mentioned it in your video. Even in a well ventilated area, this is a serious concern. Check your solvents for tetrachloroethylene- even a dose of 4 parts per million, as small as a puff of smoke can be fatal.
Low and good clearance is the way to go.
This is your best build because it's what I would do.
I got 35 on a stock height jk with flat fenders it's a billy goat and still can fit in an underground parking lot
Those 12 ton jack stands are a win. I use them not only on my crawler but they work killer for my tow rig as well. Thanks for another great video Nate 🤙
I like how you go into detail about your reasoning for doing things
Nicely done and nicely explained. I'm glad you touched on the difference between theoretical vs practical concerns. There is a huge difference in theory between one-link, two, three, and four-link suspension designs. But like you say about your buddies designs. They work. Furthermore, I bet a skilled driver couldn't tell the difference in a blind test.
I like you bolt in design. Makes it easier to fabricate, and more importantly it makes it easier to update later on.
Love the channel. The more of the measuring process you show the better...most videos just say “I measured “ but it really is informative to see what that actually entails. Keep up the awesome work!
Thank you! Will do!
Like I said when you Announced the Channel. Your Presentation is Great amd Your information flow Is easy going.This the way to convey ypur vision for this build.
Thanks for the inspiration. Been wanting to link my jeep. Shortly after watching this video I found myself bolting plate wild on the frame along with some brackets and tabs from rough stuff.
You made it look easy and so far it has been.
Thanks man and glad your doing your thing.
Can you differentiate jeep stretching. Other videos suggest cutting and adding length to the frame. With a 3 or 4 link it appears no chopping is necessary,and the stretch is all in the control arms. Love your suspension videos brotha.
just found your channel and have watched a few of your videos and I am really impressed with the detail you go into. I'm looking forward to watching a lot more of your stuff! I love watching the real fabrication processes that go into stuff like this. Keep up the great work!
Thank you 👍 glad your enjoying the content!
Keep up with the good work brother. I've used ballistic parts in the past and I enjoy them myself.
Thanks man, I truly believe in these joints from personal experience. That's why I approached them about sponsorship. Thanks for watching!
Great welds... really enjoy your build series, lots of good tips and ideas for the do it your self builder like myself
Thanks bud 👍
Giving me hope for future skill building! Nice work Nate!
The first time I’ve understood what all the numbers mean in practice, thank you
Great! I'm glad to hear it! Im working on a video with a little more detail on the geometry. I should be able to get it out in a week or so 👍
I’d never take something like this on, but found the video very interesting and informative. Great job!
Performance upgrade and that instant “i’m so serious” look of a stretch wheel base
Man Nate followed you on bleepin Jeep and definitely loved your content the most....so I followed you here! Keep it exactly this way!
Thanks brother! Glad you found me out here and I'm happy to have you aboard 🤘
@@DirtLifestyle will you still be doing collaborations with bleepin Jeep still or is that fully done ?
Strong work again Nate
Thank you!
Awesome build. Excited to see how it turns out.
I enjoyed the video, I actually have a 1979 Cherokee chief similar to your J truck, But its in the process of a 3 link front and 4 link rear, Its definitely a handful to do but I almost have the front buttoned up and going to start on the rear soon. I love the series so far
Miller welders rock,just great machines
I couldn't agree more 🤘
You’re my man crush..........bought some merch from your website, and next welder (220 volt MIG) i’ll pick up that Miller vs my tried and true Lincoln
I like your style, I honestly believe professional builders keep a lot of secrets and my suspension setups seem like wizardry. It doesn’t have to be perfect or exact, and most of the time if you learn what works you can eyeball it.
I think you may be on to something with folks holding onto information. I think ideas are ment to be shared. The more I learn the more I want to share my new found knowledge. Maybe that's how I got into TH-cam in the first place. 👍
Dirt Lifestyle I really wish I had the patience to learn the video editing part of TH-cam. I built my XJ myself in my 2 car garage and learned a lot. But being in the military and a dad/husband takes a lot of my time.
seriously love this guy, single handedly helping me building my tj and buying parts.
Wow! I thought that you did a great job on your rear tire carrier, but this was impressive. I cannot wait to see and hear about the trail manors.
Thanks man! I put alot of work into these videos, happy to hear your enjoying them 🤘
im currently trying to figure out 4 link setup for rear of my zj, so been going back and watching your video for info
Dude, these videos are absolutely flawless! So informative, you were always my favorite on BleepinJeep
Thank you very much! I appreciate the kind words!
Great job and lots of good info. The only thing that is wrong that I can see is, you NEVER want your differential pointing at the transfer case. That is a u-joint failure just waiting to happen. Most people don't seem to understand this. You want your differential at the exact same angle as your u-joint coming off of your transfer case. That is the way u-joints are designed to run. Same angles! I know this from my old drag racing days. I used to point the rear end at the back of the trany and couldn't understand why I couldn't keep u-joints in it. I was pulling 8000 rpm hole shots and snapping u-joints like nothing. The best u-joints money could by broke like glass. Then someone educated me. Keep the joints at the same angle! People thought Ford was retarded on some of their 3/4 ton 4x4s around early 1970s. They had the front differential actually pointing down toward the ground slightly. That was because the transfer case was pointing up slightly. The joints need to be at the same angle. That's why they did that. They weren't retarded after all. Learn from them and save yourself a lot of u-joint grief! Seriously!! Do some research if you doubt me. Other than that, I'm impressed!
Hey man I'm glad you're enjoying the videos! Let's talk about the issue you have with my U joint angle.
"You never want your differential pointing at your transfercase". Unfortunately this is untrue. I will provide a link at the bottom of this comment for you to click on and see what I'm talking about. If one side of your driveshaft is a constant velocity joint, you want your pinion facing your t-case as much as possible. This gives you the most strength and the least vibration. Like most Jeeps, I have a cv joint on the tcase side of the driveshaft. But with u joints on both ends you are absolutely correct. Thanks for the comment! Conversations like these are important 👍
www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.com/angle-pictures/
Great! Thanks for that info! I didn't know that a constant velocity set up changed that rule. Thanks again, and keep up the great videos!
This was a great video, I would love to see a detailed video on the int ital design of a link setup from a stock setup if you have any buddies that might be linking soon. This covered a lot of great information but coming from your last setup there isn't a lot of design changes. I'll keep watching and hope this channel grows for you, fantastic work as always.
Thanks for watching man! I'm holding off on the detailed link design video untill I have my links built. I want to try and show real world numbers with the suspension cycling on the Jack stands 👍
Dude your editing just gets better and better, bet you had fun with it. Nice fab work
Thank you! Definitely had fun, lots of work but I love it 👍
Most excellent of work. Working on getting my welding up to par. I have a 04 TJ.
Awesome video! I want to do this on my YJ and ditch the leafs
Awesome man, I have a 97 TJ that is going to be taking the stretch route very soon. Great video, keep up the good work. I''ll be following along!
Nice man! Good luck with your project! Thanks for watching👍
Awesome video love to see the fabrication process
Thanks buddy!
Loving the build dude. Looks like a killer link set up. Looking forward to seeing more of the build!
Thank you!
Like the J-truck.
great stuff man Thanks.
Another awesome video! As always can't wait to see the finished product! Also can't wait for the tore carrier video you talked about on Instagram! Just another thing to look forward to on Fridays!!
Tire*
Nice work and well explained. I'd like to see a vid on DIY fume extraction solution. Or at least set up a box fan off to the side to blow the fumes off your head without affecting the shield gas. And BTW I like the music exactly the way you have it.
I've been looking for videos like this for so long for my wj build...
also, I found a thesis paper about this if anyone is interested in a very indepth look.
Great stuff man. Followed you from bleepin Jeep. I’m in the process of figuring out a setup I want on my k10.... not only for off-road use but for better drive ability bc the factory leafs are rough on the old back!!!! Mainly for the front and figure out a factory suspension I could use for better parts accessavility
Thanks buddy! I love those k10s and I might buy one eventually. I had a 79 K5 blazer back in the day. It was a pile of crap but i still enjoyed the shit out of it for some reason. Thanks for watching! Lots more videos on the way!
No problem! I’ll be sure to keep watching. The only problem is I’m on a deployment and all it makes me want to do is just dream dream and more dreaming
Ok I know I'm late to this video, but that crossmember system you created is badass. I have an xj on cavfabs 3 link system. You essentially created their crossmember system. So clearly you both got it right if it turned out the same lol.
Thats some nice work Nate...and I like your work space too. Looking forward to seeing more projects.
Dope stuff man. Some of the best content you have put out ever. Stuff looks beefy for sure. Can't wait for a link video. sure it is on its way. To save a buck you might consider cutting a little off of your front coils. I understand if you aren't comfortable with that. Also your logo turned out super sick. Huge props brotha!
The link video is definitely on it's way! I'm work on the skid plate as we speak. Once done I'll move on to the links!
Cleanest tj I’ve ever seen
Great video man! Looking forward to the next one.
Excellent content! this channel is going to be huge
Thank you! I definitely hope so!
Ur killing it man keep up the good work
Cool video!
I'm loving this series Nate, keep up the great videos
Awesome content, thanks for all the work you put into sharing this. 👍
Awesome video Nate! Keep the videos coming.
Thanks! Can do!
Miller makes good equipment.
Awesome work as always! Keep the videos coming!!
I think you're wrong about the shorter uppers keeping the pinion pointed correctly. I think sufficiently longer uppers will keep the pinion pointed upwards. Works that way on the rear of my Jeep.
Damn Nate you did deliver on the fab vids
Great video!! Motivated to do more work on mine, keep up the awesome content!!!
Thanks!
Oh no I hope you’ve gotten rid of those jack stands since the recall haha
Great video for me looking for inspiration to stretch my ZJ more
I really like the idea of a "bolt on" system
Hopefully I can use some of your tips and tricks to link my fj40 🤘🏼
watching this makes me wonder if he ever did the recall on those jackstands, haha.
love my Miller, ordered many parts from Ballistic Fab great stuff! enjoyed the upload great tips!!!
Great content as usual, keep up the good progress!
Always great info thank you ! 👍🇺🇸
Gonna have a million subscribers pretty quick
Thanks man! I hope so!👊
Congrats for your job with the channel! It's really pleasing to watch and you seem to be a good person! :D
It's so wild that people who have the knowledge like you do can just extend their vehicle's wheelbase just because you want to
Lol thanks man 👍
Did you make a video of your first strech? The 1inch rear and 3 inches front. I would like to see how you place everything in the front.
Keep your thumbs away from steering wheel spokes on down hill descents. Loss of caster could apply heavy torque to the steering components, especially with large diameter tires.
WHAT UP BUDDY !!! GREAT STUFF ....
Be careful under those china jack stands. I have a set of those same ones and the latch will come loose and slam down even with full weight on them.
Thanks for the heads up!
Bold claim, is this actually true? Because I've been under my harbor freight stands for weeks working on a 6k pound truck
@@coast.cutter7552
Why would I make this up? Quality control in china is nonexistent. If you got lucky and yours work than good for you. One of mine the latch is mounted crooked and it will fall randomly.
www.google.com/amp/s/www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/buying-maintenance/amp32600586/harbor-freight-jack-stands-recalled-for-risk-of-collapsing/
@@coast.cutter7552 Who's full of shit now Bill?
I stretched my YJ to 101" with waggy springs and using the furthest hole on the spring perch. Got me 2.5" of lift out of it, high lined my hood, and I'm running 35-37" tires on my LCoG lift and stretch. I remolded my factory fuel tank to fit the rear diff into it so I didn't have to do a custom fuel cell or relocate the tank. Running a Montero rear axle and a Waggy dana44 up front with Dodge outers so I could get the drag link to the top of the knuckles and away from the rocks. I'm still SUA and I don't want to do a SOA, as too may of my buddies have ruined the ride characteristics of their rigs trying to go SOA. I need to Fab up a ladder bar to keep from fragging my rear springs from running out in the dunes/snow and the rock trails I'm getting too much torque and eating u-joints.
If you could dial back the Transformer Orgie Muzak, that would be great
Not sure about the music but great content!
You cant 4 link the front if you run a steering box. You will have crazy bump steer. thats why 3 links are best for streetable rigs. 4 links in the front usually for full hydro set ups.
This is a strange statement. Do you have an article or something to back this claim? There are millions of trucks, jeeps and SUVs with a 4 link front suspension and a steering box being sold OEM. I'm very interested in a source of this information.
A 4 link and a 3 link have the exact qualities and characteristics. The only difference is a 4 link is stronger but they act identical in performance. Unless of course you can demonstrate otherwise.
@@DirtLifestyle my bad. I ment with full hiems or Jonny's on all ends I guess if you use rubber the track bar wount bind all the joints. I'm speaking rock buggy stuff my bad
Good stuff
#JeepTJStretch #DIY3Link4LinkSuspension
AWESOMENESS !!!!
Reminds me of the old Rubicon Express long arm kit.
You have an awesome Jeep. Great build. Thanks for all the info. You answer a lot of questions I have on my own build. Thank you very much. Your videos are the best. Keep them coming. I'm glad you started you own channel. Congratulations
Thank you! Big compliments! I'm happy to help
Do you have or could you do a video with more detail about how you stretched the front of your tj?
I need a set of these!
i think id use the 70% set up,& a cardan joint.
Am I correct that your old front suspension system looked to be a radius arm style set up? I would be very interested to hear your thoughts on it and why you are changing to the 3 link set up. I LOVE your videos, everything about them is perfect, well filmed and very clear/informative. I'm looking at doing a 3 link/4 link set up in my Discovery 1 and these are helping me heaps! Thanks
Yes, the old suspension was radius arms. I ran it that way for almost a decade. Great system but it does have binding which slowly wears out bushings. I decided to upgrade the suspension to a 3 link to make the geometry right and decrease binding. Long term I'll be making my disco a 3 link front and 4 link rear. Very similar to the setup on my Jeep. Glad to hear the videos are helping you out!
Dirt Lifestyle Thanks for that, oh I look forward to seeing you link your Disco then. I’m not quite at the stage where it’s going to happen yet, as I’m wanting to swap out axles at the same time (actually to Discovery 2 axles!). Thanks 👍
you drive down the road here in aus with that,it would get impounded & crushed..very backwards country we live in,.
Fantastic!!!
🤘
Why am I just hearing about this channel? I've been subbed to Bleepin Jeep for years... Anyway, I think I'll check out more (this is what Bleepin Jeep used to do all the time)
Thanks buddy! Glad you found me!
yeah the dubstep
I've always enjoyed your videos. Great shots, good content and some dub step!! haha rock on
Lol thanks alot man!
Seeing a stock 1971 fj40 mob compared to this, is what makes it even more funny
Great video as usual. Here is a little p.s.a. for anyone who makes TH-cam videos: "orientate" is not a word. Braces, brackets, etc. cannot be "orientated". Just a heads-up gang. Wheel on brothers👍
See if you had just bought a Cherokee this wouldn’t have been an issue lol. I love my TJ’s if had over the years and yeah you can always go with a larger tire in the wranglers.. but it takes a stretched wrangler on 40’s and tons to go where even modest build Cherokees go. I equate it to the dame as picking a manual over an auto. When you’re crawling the auto is always gonna be better. We all know this. (At least those that climb things) hands down a Tacoma SAS or Cherokee can’t be beat. Why cause they already came with the proper wheelbase from the start.
And this new unlimited are heavy pigs! Light, locked and long travel still rules.
😂😂😂😂
Hey man I love your stuff..... I’m not really a Jeep guy except for the older ones, but I love both my square bodies..... now I have an idea I would like to pitch to you being you’re a great fabricator and mechanically knowledgeable...... I want to ad a 4 link setup to my k10 for driving comfort and a little off-road stuff from time to time(pretty basic) how do I determine the link of my link bars? The pan hard bar should be parallel to the tierod bar as much as possible for the least amount of bumpsteer just the links and placement of the links is what gets me.... I don’t want to set up for rock bouncing and maybe keeping the leafs......
You've got some of the best content on TH-cam. Can't wait to see this channel take off. Are you filming and editing this yourself?
Thank you! Yes sir, I'm a one man show. All the work is done by me 👍
I wouldn't change a thing. Looking forward to your overlander idea.
Awesome video! I stretched my cj with waggy springs. However I want tj coils and links. I’ve just been hesitant about what kind of link setup to use. Your tj is sick. I think I’m steered close to 5 front and 6 rear. Without a Comp cut. I don’t like the comp cut
I'm with you! I don't like the look of a comp cut. When I trim the fendors to match the stretch I'm going to cut away as little as possible to hopefully avoid that look. We will see what compromises I will have to make lol
Roger that. I had to make a small fill plate that goes in front of the rear tire just to make the wheel well look normal. Like the rear wheel well kits they sell. I just added a plate that actually looks like part of my rear tube fender. And the rear springs I dropped the waggys and went to a set of Chevy 52” springs. So the rear shackles are on the rear bumper so I then tied that into the frame and added a few stiffner bars hahaha. All to keep that look looking smooth! I want links badly! But right now I’m going back to bucket seats as I had a small bench seat for years. Adding a ammo can console and moving my stereo msd box and cab to the big 50 cal ammo can. Then I would like to weld up an aluminum dash setup to clean up all the holes. Oh. Another issue I ran into on the rear stretch was the fuel tank. I had a 14 bolt so I moved to a fuel cell in the back. Also ditched the 14 bolt for an HD 35 spline rear 60. To match the front 60. Keep the videos going man. I’m subbed. And looking for more inspiration! So thank you!!
Great videos as always! How did you accomplish your current 3” front and 1” rear stretch? Did you have to relocate things or just simply extend the arms?