How to Replace Honda HRC216 HXA Mower Self Propel System Drive Cable

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ความคิดเห็น • 22

  • @kensshowtell
    @kensshowtell 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Clever use of the vice grips that comes from experience. Given how dirty it was before it got your attention, I doubt if the hydrostatic fluid had been checked or changed in a while. OOPS! I should have waited because it is only natural you would see that. I clean my equipment after most uses. However, given that this is a commercial machine perhaps that calculation does not fit economically. Your attention to detail makes for some very happy customers, I'm sure.

    • @austinado16
      @austinado16  11 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      The commercially used machines live a rough life, for sure.

  • @jamesmacdonnell4085
    @jamesmacdonnell4085 26 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

    Hi Todd M, very nice video with flashlight when needed, excellent attention to the details and superb explanation of the connections. My question is how do you know how much hydraulic fluid to use? Is there a level indicator or do you just fill until the fluid leaks out? Do you have the hydraulic fluid oil part number? Very impressed with your videos, thank you. Jim

    • @austinado16
      @austinado16  26 วันที่ผ่านมา

      Hi Jim. The round black cap that you see sticking up out of the top of the transmission, is the fill location, and the dipstick. The special Honda fluid is: 08208-HST02 at about 7 bucks a bottle.
      Thanks for watching, and for the kind words!

  • @chucko956
    @chucko956 16 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Hello, I have the same mower but only the right wheel moves when I use it any any ideas why that would be? It works normal no issues with speed just the left doesn’t move.

    • @austinado16
      @austinado16  15 วันที่ผ่านมา

      The ratchet for the left side rear wheel has stopped working, either because it's failed due to rust/debris, or because the drive pin that locks it to the transmission axle shaft has sheered off. You'll find my video on the ratchets helpful: th-cam.com/video/eXCTEu224Sc/w-d-xo.html
      Typical parts needed for the repair:
      -Rear wheel: 42700-VK6-020ZA
      -Washer between wheel and ratchet: 90551-VA4-800
      -Left ratchet: 23520-VB5-803
      -Drive pin: 91101-VA4-801

  • @crisprtalk6963
    @crisprtalk6963 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    you had to tilt the machine upside down to drain the trans fluid? Is the bolt on the bottom of the trans a drain bolt?

    • @austinado16
      @austinado16  2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      I work with the machines on a lift, and it's efficient to simply tip them backwards to drain the transmission and then refill it, since the inspection cover has to be removed to check fluid level, or service the trans, and similarly to tip them on the the exhaust side to drain the oil out of the engine via the oil filler tube.

  • @08ondubs
    @08ondubs 6 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    How’d you get the cable connected at the transmission?

    • @austinado16
      @austinado16  6 หลายเดือนก่อน

      That process is shown in the video.

  • @eltonpham2165
    @eltonpham2165 6 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    What transmission fluid was used for the transmission?

    • @austinado16
      @austinado16  6 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      They take Honda's hydrostatic transmission oil.
      They also operate excellent on 5w-50 synthetic automotive engine oil.

  • @ecg9258
    @ecg9258 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Lawnmower started locking up on reverse. Any idieas?

    • @austinado16
      @austinado16  หลายเดือนก่อน

      This happens when the transmission engagement cable adjustment doesn't all for a small amount of slack in the cable when you release the engagement bail (aka: handle). Having the cable adjusted in this manner is causing the pumps in the transmission to remain engaged, and preventing them from releasing fluid pressure, so that the transmission goes into neutral.
      Release the 2 nuts on the cable using a 10mm open end wrench, and pull the cable down out of the metal bracket, so that the cable is free. Spin both nuts TOWARD the mower until you have a small amount of slack in the cable, AND so that with the nuts slightly separated from each other, you can simply slide the cable back into position (because there's some slack in the cable). Then re-tighten the nuts.

    • @ecg9258
      @ecg9258 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @austinado16 thanks man! I adjusted them and seems to work so far!

    • @austinado16
      @austinado16  หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@ecg9258 It's a permanent fix, so you're good to go. I'm glad you were able to repair it yourself and get back to work!

  • @ant5094
    @ant5094 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I have this exact mower but it won't self propel. You have an idea as to why it won't go?

    • @austinado16
      @austinado16  9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      1)Verify cable function and transmission arm function, as I have detailed in this video.
      2)If cable and arm function correctly, inspect the driveshaft that runs from the engine to the transmission. It is not uncommon for the pivot joint nearest the engine to shear off internally. So the joint spins because it's still pinned to the output shaft of the engine, but the driveshaft doesn't spin, because it's connection inside the joint has sheered off. Simply start the engine and using a flash light, look in from the transmission side (where you see me working in the video) and see if the actual drive shaft is spinning.
      3)If you see the drive shaft spinning, confirm that the joint at the transmission is also spinning.
      4)If the mower has passed all these tests, the transmission is probably out of oil due to leaking axle seals, or the oil in the transmission is extremely old and dirty. Drain the oil as you see me doing in the video, and refill with synthetic 5w/50 automotive engine oil.

    • @ant5094
      @ant5094 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@austinado16 Thanks for the detailed advice. I'll be trying this tomorrow morning.

    • @austinado16
      @austinado16  9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@ant5094 Sounds good. Start by inspecting that pin that you see me remove and install, below the orange speed change lever. It's very common for the hair clip to get knocked out of that pin, and then the pin falls out. With the pin missing, the drive system cable will not be actuated when you move the drive engagement bail forward. So the transmission will just remain in neutral and not function. If you find that pin missing, you can get a similar one, a washer, and a hair clip from a hardware store. You can also use a 6mm bolt with a 6mm nylock nut. Get a bolt that's long enough to pass through, and allow the nylock nut to be threaded down enough to engage the plastic locker on the nut, but not be so tight on the bolt that the drive cable and other pieces of that assembly are all bound up. The assembly needs to be loose so it can pivot, which is why a pin, washer and hair clip are used by the factory.

    • @Lokofabiquelo
      @Lokofabiquelo 5 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Hi there I have the same one does your move both of the rear wheels or just one of them mine only the one on the right side were spin not the left side thank you.

    • @austinado16
      @austinado16  5 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@Lokofabiquelo All Honda mowers power both rear wheels at the same time. If you have one wheel that's not spinning, remove the 14mm bolt that holds that wheel on.
      1) Inspect the steel cog ring inside the wheel. It's not uncommon for them to crack and break apart.
      2) Inspect the cog ring for a build up of dirt and grease, that keeps the individual cogs from being perfectly square. No grease or oil should be on any part of the drive system, because it just attracts dirt and water.
      3) Inspect the 2 drive pawls on the ratchet. They should be very springy and pop up at an angle easily when pushed down quickly with your finger. If the pawls don't move up and down nicely, and remain upward, or they are missing, replace that ratchet. They are sided, left, or right, so make sure you purchase the correct one.
      4) Slide the ratchet off the drive axle and inspect the pin that locks the axle to the slots in the back side of the ratchet. It's not uncommon for that drive pin to be broken. The drive pins will often be rusted in place, in the axle, and you have to pound them out with a round drift, and a hammer. But sometimes they will just slide right out.
      Good luck. I hope this is helpful.