That's really nice work. You are getting a lot out of your lathe and mill, and that flywheel turned out really well. Thanks for sharing your first pass at broaching - looked a bit stressful but the results are great!
Thanks mate! I'm just in the process of machining the other one. Once complete, I'll put them on a mandrel and check for any runout - fingers crossed they will be OK. Broaching worked well, but required absolutely loads of pressure. Cheers Andrew
Great video Andrew, thank you. I just got some drawings for this engine. The outside edge of the tapper seems very, very close to breaking into the tapped holes, like 1 thou clearance if you hit the dimensions shown. I guess you just keep cutting the taper unit one cut before it looks like they will break through lol.
Thanks mate! Yeah the clearance is just a couple of thou or so but it's not an issue. In fact the collet holding design for flywheels is the best I've come across so far. Of all the engines I've made I still regard the Farm Boy as the best design overall. Good luck with your build. Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew, great to be following this still and the timing couldnt be better as i ve just recieved two excellent 6 inch CI flywheels from Kennions as per one of you other viewers suggestions - so thats my next stage. My build is also starting to look good - made some silly mistakes but thise have been recoverable. I must say that a fair amount of skill is needed in building this engine and this is not a project one for the feint hearted but really great challenge. Happy new year to you and i look forward to seeing the end result...
Hi Andy - I wonder why I didn't spot them on the Kennions website? They should save you a lot of time and effort. I certainly didn't fancy machining them from scratch. This project has certainly got me out of my comfort zone and helped develop my machining skills. Mind you I didn't think it would take 10 months to get to this stage. I just hope it doesn't take me another 10 months to get it to run. We will see. Happy New Year and I hope you get yours running soon too. Cheers Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Yes I was very lucky, i tried PEDELEE but he'd run out so eventually found some on the GLR Kennions website (Richard is very helpful and knowledgeable ) - look at the Stationary Model Engine called TINA and it uses a 6 inch flywheel so i was able to order two of those - otherwise i think i would be machining my gym weights Ha ha....
Thanks Adam - I think the ignition will be a two stage affair. A bit of a lash-up initially and certainly not to your exacting standards. If I can just get it to run it will be a major achievement. All the best. Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Getting the engine running would be great, especially after all the work you've put into it :) Don't worry about the "lash up", some of my projects have stayed that way :)
That's looking great! I would probably have kept the cast finish on the parts you did in the milling machine. One way to get those to run straight is to indicate on those surfaces when in the lathe and to adjust the turned surfaces to match. That should get the wobbling down there.
Thanks Roel. Yeah - I was in two minds what to do. Maybe better leaving the cast finish - but it's done now. I'm currently machining the other one. Once complete I'll put them on a mandrel to make sure they run true. All the best. Andrew
The shiny finish is nice too, each method has it's advantages ;-) BTW, I started on the Stuart 10V and it's really taking shape now. I'll send you a picture when it's done. Thanks again for all the nice videos!
Thanks Matty - I should have put it on a mandrel afterwards - to check for any runout. Maybe a job for today. Happy New Year to you too - I hope it will be an improvement on last year! Cheers Andrew
Happy New Year Andrew, there's no doubt in my mind your engine will work. I've finally milled all my frame and hopper etc.. Wow for a novice it was a marathon but did I enjoy it.😂
Happy New Year Craig! Yeah - I found the frame and hopper really time-consuming. Lots of different challenges for you to get stuck into now. It's a great project to help develop machining skills. I've definitely become more confident over the past 10 months. I hope some of my videos will help you in terms of how not to go about it - ha ha. Good luck! Andrew
OK cat among the pigeons time Firstly well done very entertaining video again 👏 Now I haven't seen the drawings but I think the keyway should be on the same angle as the taper,that's the common practice. However that small an angle potentially shouldn't make a difference. I am talking strict toolmaker rules mind. Well done keep up the good work.
Thanks Jonathan - though you had me worried for a moment! The drawing does state not to bore the taper until after the keyway and the three holes have been drilled and tapped. The reason for the taper is for a flywheel split collet to snugly mate up with it when tightened with the three screws. I've yet to make the collets but I hope to show them on assembly. All the best. Andrew
Hi Andrew, Happy New Year. 'Only a couple of parts to make', I think you will complete your engine before mine. I Started back in January(2020) and still have a few parts to make. From memory you started yours in March. I best get a move on....lol. Regards Kevin
Thanks Kevin - Happy New Year to you too. I hope it's an improvement on last year! Blimey - I've not been counting the months - but 10 months is longer than I imagined it would take to get this far. No rush - it will probably take me another 10 months to get the engine running. All the best. Andrew
Ha ha Ian - not sure about that. It might take me another 10 months to get the engine to run. We will see! Cheers - and a Happy New Year to you too! Andrew
Happy New Year Andrew. Nice job as always. I can't tell from the video if you chamfered the edges after you did the main diameter cuts, but if you didn't I highly recommend that you do because spinning the flywheel by hand is how you'll start the engine, and those corners will be sharp unless chamfered. As a rule I lightly chamfer pretty much any corner even if the drawings don't call for that.
Thanks Tony - and a Happy New Year to you too. Good point. I did sort of chamfer the edges, but I will double-check when polishing on the lathe. All the best. Andrew
Andrew I enjoy your videos. Very instructive and your honesty is great! Having difficulty getting the flywheel castings. Stuart Turner do 5 and 7 inch only 6 inch I can see is from Martin Models USA. Can see Pendelee56 but the size on his page is 9cm and I can’t find an email for him. Can you help me please?
Hi Kenneth If you go onto eBay and click on one of pedelee56's items, you can scroll down and see the sellers details. In that area there is a contact seller link. Just select that and send him details of what you need. He will probably be able to get some suitable flywheels in for you. Good luck! Andrew
Ha ha Len - I like to get my monies worth out of my clothes. Mind you it doesn't help with the arthritis in my knee - especially below freezing! All the best. Andrew
Firstly Andrew, Happy New Year to you and the Family. Secondly well done with the flywheel. Thirdly, Lash out Some Cash and put some heating in your workshop. Not only will YOU appreciate some warmth but so will your machinery and measuring instruments. Most instrumentation is calibrated at 20 C not about 10 C that it looked like with you and your Winter clothes. Lastly, as a general rule, try NOT to use a good dial indicator directly on castings. Although you said they were clean, I suspect that there could still be bits of sand in the casting surface which will wear away your stylus. If you really have to dial in a casting, get a Chinese cheapy for that purpose only. Regards from Australia.
Hi Dave - Happy New Year to you too - and roll on Spring! The problem with heating my workshop is that it escapes so quickly - a bit of a problem really. My neighbour gave me some really good rubber floor matting from an engineering company so at least my feet don't get too cold. Yeah it's a horrible sound with the dial gauge grating on the cast iron. It is a cheap one though - it's my dial gauge holder that cast an arm and a leg! All the best and stay safe! Andrew
Well done I think. Recently 2 other Tubers, Joe Pie and Blondihacks made fly wheels and used different approaches. Your way of doing it feels the mots natural to me. Did You check the balance of the wheel or You leave it to the end of the wheeling?
Hi Stefan - I think I should have put it on a mandrel afterwards - to check balance and runout. I've not checked out Joe Pie and Blondihacks approach, but I guess they used a mandrel to machine. I used that approach for my Stuart 10V and it worked well. Maybe OK on smaller flywheels, but I think the faceplate might be a better option for larger ones. We will see! Cheers Andrew
@@learningturningmetal You're likely very right. Your fly wheel is surely quite a bit larger. To grab it by the boss would not be thinkable. My moistake not thinking about the size.
Nice work as ever Andrew. You should be able to get a good shine on the rims with a bit of polish. I hadn't appreciated just how large those flywheels are. There will be a lot of weight spinning round when the engine is running. Plenty of inertia to carry it between ignitions. Although hard work your broaching press put the slot nicely in the centre. I have had a lot of trouble getting those slots in just the right place. A little bit off and it is a long job to get everything lined up again so that the pin fits. My only thought on this one was that a bit of cutting fluid would have helped with the drilling and especially with the reaming. Of course you can do it without but it will prolong the life of your drills and reamers. I get more envious of your workshop each time I see it . 😜
Thanks Tim - and many thanks for the advice. I must try to remember to use cutting fluid more often. By the way, my workshop is an optical illusion. It's amazing what you can achieve with video editing software nowadays! All the best. Andrew
Hi Steve - as Hairy's Shed points out - it's for a tapered split collet. I've yet to machine these out of Leaded Steel but I hope to show them on assembly. Fair point about drilling and reaming both on assembly. I did it separately because I had to remove some material out of the hub for the new piece to fit into. Maybe next time I will resists the temptation to drill right through - and do it after loctiting the piece in place. All the best. Andrew
Andrew, here is an idea for you. Mount all your equipment that you normally keep on the shelf, like your arbor presss, belt sander, chop saw, and grinder on sheets of 25mm plywood all with the same length and width with mounting holes in the same place. That way you only need to drill your workbench once and you can security mount your equipment as needed and still have the work space when the equipment is not needed.
Fantastic idea Craig. I think that could be a job for Spring - assuming I've managed to get this little engine to run. I'm getting to the nervous stage! Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew, Happy New Year... I know it may sound a bit crazy but I thought it must have been quite satisfying turning the flywheels... Take care Paul,,
Top Job .Happy days Andrew.
Have brought the flywheel thank you for the heads up on where to get them they look good quality castings👍
That's really nice work. You are getting a lot out of your lathe and mill, and that flywheel turned out really well. Thanks for sharing your first pass at broaching - looked a bit stressful but the results are great!
Thanks mate! I'm just in the process of machining the other one. Once complete, I'll put them on a mandrel and check for any runout - fingers crossed they will be OK. Broaching worked well, but required absolutely loads of pressure.
Cheers
Andrew
Great video Andrew, thank you. I just got some drawings for this engine. The outside edge of the tapper seems very, very close to breaking into the tapped holes, like 1 thou clearance if you hit the dimensions shown. I guess you just keep cutting the taper unit one cut before it looks like they will break through lol.
Thanks mate! Yeah the clearance is just a couple of thou or so but it's not an issue. In fact the collet holding design for flywheels is the best I've come across so far. Of all the engines I've made I still regard the Farm Boy as the best design overall. Good luck with your build.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew, great to be following this still and the timing couldnt be better as i ve just recieved two excellent 6 inch CI flywheels from Kennions as per one of you other viewers suggestions - so thats my next stage. My build is also starting to look good - made some silly mistakes but thise have been recoverable. I must say that a fair amount of skill is needed in building this engine and this is not a project one for the feint hearted but really great challenge. Happy new year to you and i look forward to seeing the end result...
Hi Andy - I wonder why I didn't spot them on the Kennions website? They should save you a lot of time and effort. I certainly didn't fancy machining them from scratch. This project has certainly got me out of my comfort zone and helped develop my machining skills. Mind you I didn't think it would take 10 months to get to this stage. I just hope it doesn't take me another 10 months to get it to run. We will see.
Happy New Year and I hope you get yours running soon too.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Yes I was very lucky, i tried PEDELEE but he'd run out so eventually found some on the GLR Kennions website (Richard is very helpful and knowledgeable ) - look at the Stationary Model Engine called TINA and it uses a 6 inch flywheel so i was able to order two of those - otherwise i think i would be machining my gym weights Ha ha....
@@gb_engineer useful information. Cheers
Coming along nicely Andrew,
Look forward to the ignition video.
ATB Adam
Thanks Adam - I think the ignition will be a two stage affair. A bit of a lash-up initially and certainly not to your exacting standards. If I can just get it to run it will be a major achievement.
All the best.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal
Getting the engine running would be great, especially after all the work you've put into it :)
Don't worry about the "lash up", some of my projects have stayed that way :)
Thanks for the tip on FS Wizard, brilliant app. Happy New Year.
Hi Stephen - glad you like the app - and a Happy New Year to you too!
Cheers
Andrew
A little lube in the bush helps penetration when broaching keyways. Again another excellent job!
Great suggestion Dave. I must remember when I broach the other one.
All the best.
Andrew
Thank you for another informative and educating video Andrew!
Thanks John - not sure about educating. Maybe education how not to do it - ha ha.
All the best.
Andrew
Looking really good. Thanks.
Thanks John - all the best.
Andrew
That's looking great! I would probably have kept the cast finish on the parts you did in the milling machine. One way to get those to run straight is to indicate on those surfaces when in the lathe and to adjust the turned surfaces to match. That should get the wobbling down there.
Thanks Roel. Yeah - I was in two minds what to do. Maybe better leaving the cast finish - but it's done now. I'm currently machining the other one. Once complete I'll put them on a mandrel to make sure they run true.
All the best.
Andrew
The shiny finish is nice too, each method has it's advantages ;-) BTW, I started on the Stuart 10V and it's really taking shape now. I'll send you a picture when it's done. Thanks again for all the nice videos!
nice work
Thanks mate!
All the best.
Andrew
Gday Andrew, all the best for The New Year, the flywheel looks perfect, you really do a great job, throughly enjoyed watching, cheers Matty
Thanks Matty - I should have put it on a mandrel afterwards - to check for any runout. Maybe a job for today.
Happy New Year to you too - I hope it will be an improvement on last year!
Cheers
Andrew
Looking great , maybe a bit of extra heat in the workshop ?. Happy new .
Thanks Nicholas. Yeah - some heat in the workshop would be good, but it escapes so quickly.
Happy New Year and roll on Spring!
Cheers
Andrew
Happy New Year Andrew, there's no doubt in my mind your engine will work. I've finally milled all my frame and hopper etc.. Wow for a novice it was a marathon but did I enjoy it.😂
Happy New Year Craig! Yeah - I found the frame and hopper really time-consuming. Lots of different challenges for you to get stuck into now. It's a great project to help develop machining skills. I've definitely become more confident over the past 10 months. I hope some of my videos will help you in terms of how not to go about it - ha ha.
Good luck!
Andrew
OK cat among the pigeons time
Firstly well done very entertaining video again 👏
Now I haven't seen the drawings but I think the keyway should be on the same angle as the taper,that's the common practice.
However that small an angle potentially shouldn't make a difference.
I am talking strict toolmaker rules mind.
Well done keep up the good work.
Thanks Jonathan - though you had me worried for a moment! The drawing does state not to bore the taper until after the keyway and the three holes have been drilled and tapped. The reason for the taper is for a flywheel split collet to snugly mate up with it when tightened with the three screws. I've yet to make the collets but I hope to show them on assembly.
All the best.
Andrew
Hi Andrew, Happy New Year. 'Only a couple of parts to make', I think you will complete your engine before mine. I Started back in January(2020) and still have a few parts to make. From memory you started yours in March. I best get a move on....lol. Regards Kevin
Thanks Kevin - Happy New Year to you too. I hope it's an improvement on last year! Blimey - I've not been counting the months - but 10 months is longer than I imagined it would take to get this far. No rush - it will probably take me another 10 months to get the engine running.
All the best.
Andrew
Can't wait to see this one finished Andrew..gonna be a work of art! :) Happy New Year to you!
Ha ha Ian - not sure about that. It might take me another 10 months to get the engine to run. We will see!
Cheers - and a Happy New Year to you too!
Andrew
Happy New Year Andrew. Nice job as always. I can't tell from the video if you chamfered the edges after you did the main diameter cuts, but if you didn't I highly recommend that you do because spinning the flywheel by hand is how you'll start the engine, and those corners will be sharp unless chamfered. As a rule I lightly chamfer pretty much any corner even if the drawings don't call for that.
Thanks Tony - and a Happy New Year to you too. Good point. I did sort of chamfer the edges, but I will double-check when polishing on the lathe.
All the best.
Andrew
Andrew I enjoy your videos. Very instructive and your honesty is great! Having difficulty getting the flywheel castings. Stuart Turner do 5 and 7 inch only 6 inch I can see is from Martin Models USA. Can see Pendelee56 but the size on his page is 9cm and I can’t find an email for him. Can you help me please?
Hi Kenneth
If you go onto eBay and click on one of pedelee56's items, you can scroll down and see the sellers details. In that area there is a contact seller link. Just select that and send him details of what you need. He will probably be able to get some suitable flywheels in for you.
Good luck!
Andrew
Very fashionable jeans, Andrew.
Ha ha Len - I like to get my monies worth out of my clothes. Mind you it doesn't help with the arthritis in my knee - especially below freezing!
All the best.
Andrew
Firstly Andrew, Happy New Year to you and the Family. Secondly well done with the flywheel. Thirdly, Lash out Some Cash and put some heating in your workshop. Not only will YOU appreciate some warmth but so will your machinery and measuring instruments. Most instrumentation is calibrated at 20 C not about 10 C that it looked like with you and your Winter clothes. Lastly, as a general rule, try NOT to use a good dial indicator directly on castings. Although you said they were clean, I suspect that there could still be bits of sand in the casting surface which will wear away your stylus. If you really have to dial in a casting, get a Chinese cheapy for that purpose only. Regards from Australia.
Hi Dave - Happy New Year to you too - and roll on Spring! The problem with heating my workshop is that it escapes so quickly - a bit of a problem really. My neighbour gave me some really good rubber floor matting from an engineering company so at least my feet don't get too cold. Yeah it's a horrible sound with the dial gauge grating on the cast iron. It is a cheap one though - it's my dial gauge holder that cast an arm and a leg!
All the best and stay safe!
Andrew
Well done I think. Recently 2 other Tubers, Joe Pie and Blondihacks made fly wheels and used different approaches. Your way of doing it feels the mots natural to me.
Did You check the balance of the wheel or You leave it to the end of the wheeling?
Hi Stefan - I think I should have put it on a mandrel afterwards - to check balance and runout. I've not checked out Joe Pie and Blondihacks approach, but I guess they used a mandrel to machine. I used that approach for my Stuart 10V and it worked well. Maybe OK on smaller flywheels, but I think the faceplate might be a better option for larger ones. We will see!
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal You're likely very right. Your fly wheel is surely quite a bit larger. To grab it by the boss would not be thinkable. My moistake not thinking about the size.
Nice work as ever Andrew. You should be able to get a good shine on the rims with a bit of polish. I hadn't appreciated just how large those flywheels are. There will be a lot of weight spinning round when the engine is running. Plenty of inertia to carry it between ignitions.
Although hard work your broaching press put the slot nicely in the centre. I have had a lot of trouble getting those slots in just the right place. A little bit off and it is a long job to get everything lined up again so that the pin fits.
My only thought on this one was that a bit of cutting fluid would have helped with the drilling and especially with the reaming. Of course you can do it without but it will prolong the life of your drills and reamers. I get more envious of your workshop each time I see it . 😜
Thanks Tim - and many thanks for the advice. I must try to remember to use cutting fluid more often. By the way, my workshop is an optical illusion. It's amazing what you can achieve with video editing software nowadays!
All the best.
Andrew
Hi Andrew, just a thought, why didn't you drill & ream the flywheel and boss as an assembly? What is the purpose of the taper?
Hi Steve, there is a tapered split collet, which no doubt Andrew will show in a later video, that locks the flywheel to the crankshaft.
@@rabidgasfitter Thanks for that. I didn't know Fenner nicked the "Taperlock Bush" idea. Better solution than a grub screw.
Hi Steve - as Hairy's Shed points out - it's for a tapered split collet. I've yet to machine these out of Leaded Steel but I hope to show them on assembly.
Fair point about drilling and reaming both on assembly. I did it separately because I had to remove some material out of the hub for the new piece to fit into. Maybe next time I will resists the temptation to drill right through - and do it after loctiting the piece in place.
All the best.
Andrew
@@rabidgasfitter Spot on mate!
I’m looking to buy a mill. What are you using in this video?
Hi - It's a Warco WM18 mill - and I love it!
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal thanks
@@learningturningmetal did you find the Sieg 2X2P. Too small?
@@lisag2771 it all depends on what you plan to make with it. If you get hooked on model engineering it's best to go as big as possible.
Awesome
Thanks mate!
Cheers!
Andrew
Andrew, here is an idea for you. Mount all your equipment that you normally keep on the shelf, like your arbor presss, belt sander, chop saw, and grinder on sheets of 25mm plywood all with the same length and width with mounting holes in the same place. That way you only need to drill your workbench once and you can security mount your equipment as needed and still have the work space when the equipment is not needed.
Fantastic idea Craig. I think that could be a job for Spring - assuming I've managed to get this little engine to run. I'm getting to the nervous stage!
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew,
Happy New Year... I know it may sound a bit crazy but I thought it must have been quite satisfying turning the flywheels...
Take care
Paul,,
Thanks Paul - it was really satisfying. Broaching was interesting too.
Happy New Year to you too!
All the best.
Andrew
Almost every flywheel engine I have has a check valve in the fuel line.