Easy fix : Install a wireless unit wherever the customer wants it and install the original wall button close to the unit for programming purposes. I have been in situation where the customer does not want to see a wire running along the walls all the way to the wall button. That's how I have done and the customers are as happy as they can be. Good info , A++ channel.Keep the good work coming.
Whoa!! 885LM I could've used in a scenario I just had. Thanks for this video Santiago. I've kinda fell off the LiftMaster wagon for a minute and didn't even realize this wall console was a thing. So thankful for your channel. Whenever I have a customer wanting a good review or breakdown, I send them here. Good stuff brother!
Thank you Richard! Yeah I mostly do retrofit installs. And this one of the challenges I find most with this motor. I loved your last video my friend. The POV (point of view) shots are very helpful. I'm gonna try to incorporate more shots like this.
The 885Lm is fine but you still need to install the hardwired button(typically on the door jamb) if you want the Wi-Fi to work. It won’t work otherwise.
The wire is crappy. We have one of these openers and we have had it four years. We open it partially about ten time a day to let our dog in and out. We love it and have never had any problems with it on our R-18 doors.
Excellent video. Very informative and clearly communicated. I haven’t heard much about this but in my opinion the wireless antenna has a short distance range. I’ve had a tough time several times getting a Wi-Fi connection established and had to resort to a network range extender very close by. None of my mobile devices and laptops, Alexa and Google Home, etc. have any issues connecting in my garage. Other than this, it was an easy install and has worked perfectly on my 9’ x 16’ door. I highly recommend this GDO.
Great video as usual, I always connect the cable tension monitor as well as the auto deadbolt... they are a must that should never be bypassed. One gripe i have on the 8500 is the collar, If you run the tube into the machine and then tighten the collar tight enough to not slip on a heavy door the set screws will put an indentation into the motor sleeve AND the torsion tube inside of that sleeve making it virtually impossible to get the tube back out in the future for spring repairs etc etc. Yes some will say well... don't tighten it so much but on a monster door the collar slipping is always a possibility so finding that perfect sweet spot can be real tough.
Yes! That's so true! I run to that often. In most cases if the tube is too damaged I would offer to replace tube. But this is a really good point. Thanks for the great feedback!
If it’s a bigger door I usually drill a hole in the shaft where one of the set screws will set in it and it can’t slip and it’s easy to get back apart for repair
IVE installed hundreds of these and I was shocked when you said wire , liftmaster wouldn't mind giving you extra wire, I would say the major flaw of the 8500 is installing the Cable tensioner correctly Homes are sometimes not framed for it so you gotta add support behind sheetrock
Thanks again for the feedback Mr. Jesse. I agree with you about way homes are built today. So see this video and think that I am speaking of a technical issue or something mechanical. The truth is this video is based on the installers perspective of a perfect install. I know there is no such thing as a perfect installation when it comes to the 8500W. But I wanted to come out with video and offer some solutions when the lack of wire becomes an issue for the customer. Appreciate your comment!
Not to mention it’s almost impossible to install in low headroom applications. The only MAJOR flaw I’ve experienced is the travel module seems to be WAY to delicate. I’ve had to replace a dozen of these things, and the 8500w is a bit of a pain to disassemble.
@@terrible0ne So what would you say is the ideal square footage to have the wall mounted garage openers installed? Example my garage is approximately 385 ft and 8.2 ft in height.
@@sarek8472 I’m not sure I understand your question. These machines are good up to 14’ tall according to Liftmaster. I prob wouldn’t go above 14 x 14. I had one on a 16 x 8 solid wood door with 3’ highlift and it ran with no issues for 11 years.
Thank you for making this video, it was very helpful. Thanks for pointing out the problems and how to fix it.. maybe the Mfg. might see your video and fix the problem
Nice video.....I fix a lot of these that have thrown cables for various reasons...not my favorite op..usually fixed by leveling track, adjusting springs or installing 10 4 drums ....the drums are a definitive fix
Be aware, a prerequisite for this type of opener is Gravity. Be aware the door is decoupled from the opener. The opener only turns the torsion shaft with the cable spool, it doesnot move the door itself, even with the cable keeper it only turns the shaft. A major assumption is that if the shaft turns, the door will go down. The opener only produces slack in the cable, with the assumption the door will follow. Going up is no issue, as there is great tension on the cable in that direction. Also, if there is still energy stored in the torsion spring, this will be acting against gravity, so you may also need to adust the spring tension. It seems a high ceiling and a significant rail pitch (for gravity to help more) would be most helpful too.
Yes, the 8500W is a big improvement over it's predecesdor, the 8500 Elite. With the 8500W being way easier to program the limits; other wireless devices & the fact it has battery backup makes it a winner in my book. It also has a lift rating of 850 lbs with a properly balanced sprung door is also a benefit for larger doors.
Hello Sir. I have a Question// I had to pull the Emergency Release on two 8500W openers. Now my problem is they won't reconnect ?? the pull roop is still pulled down and won’t go back up. Please help ??? Luis from PITTSBURGH
I just saw something on this in another video, the rep at liftmaster told him that you have to pull real hard on it for it to click back, a lot harder than he thought he would have to
Hi , I just installed a lift master 8500 w. Everything is working properly but the unit has a wobble as it opens and closes. What can I do to fix this. Thanks for your time I appreciate it. Ted.
Hello Ted! Thanks for the question. A slight wobble is common. Yet if the wobble is excessive, the bracket to the 8500 may need to be secured or fastened tighter. You can also add an end bearing plate to the torsion tube to stabilize the walking or movement of the tube.
Does this unit break sometimes or require Maintenance? Is it a good unit if you open and close you’re garage 15 times a day or will it wear out more quickly? I don’t care about having space over my head I just need a quiet unit and reliable. Thank you
Hello. Most motors will accomplish opening an average of 10 to 15 cycles a day. The reality is with that type of use any garage door motor will require maintenance. Additionally, you also want to think about the maintenance your garage door will need if you open and close multiple times a day. Nevertheless, I think you will be happy with this motor.
Excellent point! Yes you're going to have to open up the cover to the garage door opener. What happens with that gear assembly inside is that it rust out and it needs to be maneuvered so that way it engages into the gear. It's hard to explain through this comment but I might have to find a video that I recorded that highlights it.
The 885LM has its flaws too... they have the little cover on the front that flips up where the light and lock ususally are, but there's nothing there. They could have easily put the battery there so you can get at it easily, but no, you have to take it off the wall and then take the circuit board out. Idk how that got approved
It takes less than a minute to change out the battery 2 screws are a 1/4 inch long and one is an inch long I’m not sure how they could make it any easier
Thank you so much for posting this video!!! I just spoke with someone from Liftmaster this morning about this wall controller. The guy told me that the 885LM works with the 8500W only (not the 8500), and does not need another controller that is wired for it to work. Is this accurate information? I'd like to try to get away with have to run any wire for the wall controller. Thanks so much for your help and I love your channel. 👍
Thank you so much! And that's a great question. Now can you tell me if the learn code button to your current 8500 model garage door opener is purple or yellow. Usually the button to this motor was a purple and black button to set both the travel limits, four settings, and remote programming. But you could also have the model that also has the yellow and black button which also serves for the same programming functions. If you can confirm that for me then I believe we can hone in on getting a proper wireless wall button for you.
@@sosgds Thank you so much for getting back to me, I really appreciate it. Well the problem is, is that I don't own the 8500W YET. I am looking into purchasing it and I was doing research, and then I looked into the wireless mount. Which then led me to your video....talk about a coincidence!!😃 So like I said, Liftmaster told me that was the only wall mount unit, 8500W, it could be used with. But I thought I'd better ask you to verify. I did see something about a yellow learn button had to be on the opener but I don't know if the unit has that or not. I want to keep my options open for for each opener opener and then make my decision from there. I don't need an opener with Wi-Fi or anything like that but having the wireless wall console is really nice.
I see. Well the WiFi does not necessarily need to be turned on or utilized, but I do find that it's a very convenient feature. Have you checked out the Genie 6070 wall mount motor?
Thanks for the video. i love the comments, sometimes they help just as much as the video. I've been researching openers. trying to find out which motor size I need for my 15x10ft garage door. I have no clue if it weighs more than 850# Question, do you install outlet to the unit too? I'm just asking because I have a 1200sq ft garage that has 30 amps service old fuses. I've been trying to get people to work or at least be reasonable about installing a 100amp service but it's hard to get people that have even an ounce of integrity. one company wanted 2000$ just to dig the trench 50ft to drop the wire. I politely declined when i saw that estimate. I can rent a trencher for a month for 1000$ at home depot. .Anyway, I decided to just get a door opener before the 100 amp service install. hoping that opener doesn't require that much amperage.
Hello! Thanks for sharing your experience. For this motor you simply need a 20 amp breaker. The DC motor has more than enough torque for the door. Yet, I find that the Genie 6170 offers better performance on taller doors.
@@CanadianDoorMan that cable tensioner almost serves no purpose whatsoever. Whenever the motor will close it by the tube, it will almost all the time have a little slack on the cables, which causes so many callbacks. Why not just takeoff those cable tensioners and just use the motor with sensitivity force if the spring breaks. 🤦♂️
@@1agaragedoorssacramento I never understood those ridiculous cable tensioners. All in all I find the motors over priced for an inferior product. Crazy thing is so many people are going with these things. Majority of the motors I’ve installed this year have been side mounts.
I've been watching a lot of videos how to install a garage opener, as mine, Crafstman 1995, recently just died, and accidentally I noticed your channel. Great work and very informative ! Having a very havy wooden door 16 feet long, I wanted to make a carefull choice and I went on a binge watching almost all your videos. At the end, I decided for 1hp Sommer evo+. I would love to know your opinion abaout this garage door opener. All the best !
Hello. I am glad you are finding the channel and it's content useful. Tell me ... You mentioned that your garage door is wood. Does it swing up or rollup? Do you know the type of track assembly that you have? Is it a standard 12" track or do you have a low head track?
@@sosgds Thank you so much for your response ! I have a low head track as the ceiling is 9 ft tall. The springs are mounted in the rear. The door is sectional and the track unity has a separate track for the top section roller. The house was build in 1955, and the garage door opener, Crafstman, was made in 1995, so I believe that it has the technology of that era. Any input, it would be much appreciated.
Wow. Those are special circumstances. The Sommer motor should be able to work within that configuration. I would also consider one of the new Genie motors, like the 3120 or 2128. Your best bet it to keep the travel of the motor nice and slow. In addition, ensure that your garage door balance is acceptable. Low head track doors are not easy to keep balanced thus the key will rely on proper and regular maintenance to the garage door. I hope this help.
Hello. It's practically identical to the LiftMaster 8500W. I have found that the RJO70 comes with the same challenges as the 8500W. The automatic door lock fails within a year and the cable tension monitor is too sensitive. Thus I would invest my money on the 8500W or the Genie 6170.
Wow, I wish I had seen this 6 months ago. I had 3 high lift doors installed, two of the LJ8900W jack shaft motors are over 10 ft high, the other is 12 ft high. Needless to say the first time I had to get a ladder to re-pair the myQ app to connect to my phone I knew there was a big problem. They, like you said used the 3- 885LM wireless buttons at the entry door which is great because we didn't have to run a wire all the way over there. Needless to say when I figured out I was going to have to be climbing the ladder if I had to pair them again, the 880LMW was the only way I was going to be able to do this from ground level,. They did install these with the short wire below each jack shaft at ground level today, get this..where they had installed 3-cheap green button wired openers. I guess my biggest disappointment is they wanted to charge me over $700 to install the 3- 880LMW's and 3- 827LM Led lights. However it's completed and I hope I have it all covered "^MONTHS LATE-R" Thanks for the video, just wish I'd seen it earlier!
Btw I have not had, nor was it recommended that I install the "Cable Tension Monitor, should I look into that? One other thing why would you need a lock when it's connected to the shaft, can it be forced open???
Hello. Wow this is great feedback! Thank you for sharing your experience. Let me answer your questions about the Cable Tension Monitor and the 841LM automatic door lock. The Cable Tension Monitor is peripheral that has to be installed in order to function properly. Some dealer contractors have become creative in bypassing that specific part. The reason: The CTM fails often. Additionally, if the garage door has poor balance the CTM will trip constantly. It's a headache for sure. The 841LM auto door lock was also one of the peripherals that failed often. In fact it has been discontinued to work with the conventional overhead motors. And yes the door lock was put into place to avoid someone from opening the garage door from the outside. Without making any disparaging remarks about the dealer contractors that installed your garage door system your options should have been communicated to you beforehand. At that point they would have explained the benefits and cost difference. Now if I'm not mistake the LJ8900W would require a difference smart wall button. I could be wrong, but the 880LMW is not compatible with the LJ8900W. I'd have to investigate that bit more to get your a confirmation.
@@sosgds Thanks for you reply, so far the 880LMW is working seamlessly all functions seem to work fine and programming is easy. Also since I posted this I've checked and there are cable tension monitors installed. I'm very happy with the system and the operation is super quick and quiet. Thanks again sir!!
could I have both ??? I have the 880LMW just under my garage door motor but wanted it closer to my home door but because didn't have enough wiring the installer said I couldn't. This would fix my problem. Oh and after only 2 years my jackshaft door lock is already broken.
@@sosgds I installed over the weekend the new door lock that they sent me to replace the broken one. When I finished installing it, I get to the connection part and notice that it's a 3 pin that I have on the motor but the door lock that they sent me has only 2 pins so can't connect it. Waiting for feedback from were I got it from.
Can the 8500W be installed in any or lost residential installations. I’ve had an installer not recommend the 8500w today and insisted that I go with the overhead style opener. I don’t know if its because he doesn’t like installing them or does he make more money on the other units. I have an overhead beam that runs across my garage but the door clears the beam just fine . I would really prefer to have a 8500 style type of opener. Any advice or help is greatly appreciated. It’s a normal 16x8 garage door
Hello. Good question. The 8500W is a ver versatile motor which can fit most garage door configurations. And even though it can work on a 3.5 low head track it has limitations. Thus if you have a low head track assembly that might have been the reason why he suggested an overhead motor.
I have three of these in my garage. The opener moves side to side while operating. My garage door guy installed the screws a little loose to accommodate movement and said that's how they are designed. Is there supposed to be lateral movement while the door is opening and closing?
Hello. I completely know what you are talking about. It's a slight movement as the door travels. It can be considered normal based on how it is responding to the door. One of the main reasons why this happens is because of the way the torsion tube is placed. In reality, wall mount motors require that the torsion spring system, starting from the tube be plum straight. If the tube is off a certain way or perhaps there's a variance to the how the tube there this will manifest in a slight wobble or movement from the motor. Hope this answers your question.
you think the biggest flaw is short cable? I have fixed a lot of these doors and I’ll tell you the biggest problem is that it relies on gravity. So what I see too often is the door shifts and binds or gets stuck somehow. Multiple things can impede the fall of the door over the years and as soon as that happens, it takes a whole readjustment of the tracks or new wheels, etc.. And God for bid you didn’t have the cable tensioner sensor on because I’ve seen a lot of bound up doors with bound up cable. So much so that it will be in the track as it goes crooked. Constantly fixing these doors with these openers. But the old style pulls it up and pushes it down. A lot less can go wrong.
Thanks for the feedback. I see a number of issues when it comes to these motors. The installation depends greatly on the condition of the door. Yet those issues deal with something existential, such as poor door balance, a torsion spring system that was misaligned, or a warped door jamb. But the flaw addressed in this video is the out of box experience. LiftMaster makes no attempt to provide longer bell wire when it should. It's a simple remedy that is not even being considered or rectified. Customers need to know that before making a purchase.
Love you videos! I was curious from a space perspective, which of the two units 8500W and the 6172H-B are the most compact. I have a 3 bay door system and the space between door 1 and 2 or door 2 and 3 is right about 7 3/4 inches from wheel to wheel not accounting for the tension rod. I have seen quite a few installed in what seems to be the same or smaller space but wanted to get your opinion. Thank you
Thank you for the support! In the case of the LiftMaster 8500W you'll need at least 9" from the torsion tube. As for the Genie you will can get away 7" from the torsion tube. Now, just to clarify you want to install two motor next to each other between doors 1 & 2 or door 2 & 3 correct? If you have the ability, shoot me a picture of the spacing you speak of please. sosgdoservice@gmail.com
Mine have been nothing but issues with the cables coming off the pully and wrapping tightly on the shaft . I tried to shut them today and again one worked the other one wrapped on the shaft . Now my door is stuck 3/4 open . My garage door guys act like I’m hanging off of them or shutting them on stuff but it’s not the case . Any ideas ???!
Hello. From what you're describing there's an imbalance happening with your garage door. I almost want to say that your bottom garage door section might be rubbing or bumping up against the door jambs. This could cause the cables to become loose. Another possibility could be your hinges. If your garage door contractor is willing to inspect these items it could lead to a solution. Hope this helps.
My problem with this door opener is that it is to sensitive. When I set my down limit it will not squeeze the bottom door seal. The force limits can no longer be adjusted. I have water running into my garage under the door when it rains hard. Has anyone figured out how to bypass the force limits on the 8500w.
Nice video! I love the 8500 opener as well. Installed for six years. I feel like I learned about another flaw or two. If the tension wire comes off one of the spools on the torque shaft, is that an indicator that the torsion spring is beginning to fail? (cable tension monitor is working fine). In order to retension the wire, does the unit need to be removed from the wall? Whereas with a standard type of overhead door, I don't think such steps are needed. Another flaw is the wall unit - eventually the capacitors fail and need to be replaced. Thanks for your thoughts on this opener.
Hello. Very good question. Yes the slack of the cable can be an indication of need of maintenance, or spring failure, or cable failure. So if you haven't had the garage door serviced then I would start there. I haven't had a capacitor fail yet. But I will have to look out for it. Thanks for feedback!
If I decided to install the wall controller closer to the door opener and further away from my door entering the garage, does it impact the effectiveness of the motion sensor? I am guessing it does and would require me to walk further into the garage to turn of the light.
HELP!! I have the 8500, and the pull cord won’t engage. I had a power outage, and it won’t work now. Power is restored. Just goes up and down when I pull on it.
Hello. I believe the limits are thrown off. You can disengage the motor by pulling on the string. Close the door manually. Engage the motor by pulling back on the emergency cord again. Slide the automatic door lock. This should give you a starting point. From here you want to reset or reprogram the garage door limits. LiftMaster does have a video on it. It's easy to follow.
I really appreciate the prompt response, thank you. The cord will not engage or disengage the motor. It just travels up and down a few inches. As if something inside is disconnected from the cord itself.
Hello! Yes ... It's possible the gear has gone bad. They are made of hard poly-carbonate material. Additionally, you could have a bad travel module. If by pulling the cord to the up position and lifting the door a bit to engage does not do the trick, then it will be a bad gear assembly.
@@sosgds First, let me say again how much I appreciate you responding and a fast as you did. I’ll recommend your page to friends and family ❤️ I was taken by a repair person my home warranty people sent out. He told me it was bad, and would be back the next day. No show!! I went out and pulled harder on the cord, and there’s nothing wrong with it. I took your advice and watched how to program the opener, and presto!! Works like a charm. Thank for you page and knowledge I’ll be checking back in!👍🏽
We had are 8500 previously installed and then one night it opened by itself? I closed the garage door by pressing the garage door button on the wall and once it closed it opened back up. Now I unplugged the garage door open and then plugged it back in and it made a humming sound as if it was trying to open. Any thoughts? Thank you and stay safe!
Hello. That is irregular. Have you recently had a power outage? It could be a logic board. You might have to simply reprogram the travel limits. Do you notice any blinking lights?
Thanks for the video, I have an issue with the cable tension monitor, while activating the down button, the motor will activate but then will shut off flashing the 3-5 code but once pressed again the door will proceed as normal. This a reoccurring matter if the door is open for longer then a minute. And usually is remedied by pressing button twice(sometimes 3 times). Any thoughts or suggestions? Thank you for your time.
Hello! Thank you for this great question. It's possible the balance to the door is off and there is slack in the cables. Or the cable tension monitor has a bad connection. Usually the balance is the culprit but in some cases you can apply cable keepers to reduce the slack to the cables and that might alleviate the problem. Hope that helps. Y'all stay safe.
Force Limits may also need to be reset. All you need to do is open the door push the yellow button on the operator twice the led light will blink rapidly press your wall button and the door will go down. Once the door is down push the wall button again the goes back up and once the door is fully open the led light on the operator should stop flashing. The force limits should be set.
Good video! What gauges are the different wires? They seen the same......Thanks...Jim PS.....you would think that by now there would be a wall control with battery, that would work with the WiFi .......
Excellent point Jim! Yes I do believe they should offer a Bluetooth enabled wall console that would comes with all the bells and whistle. But we are probably still 2 iterations of this motor away from that. As for the wire gauges I couldn't tell you. But the Genie wire is very thin. To thin for my taste. Thanks again for the excellent question.
Hello. That's a great question. The truth is the automatic door lock is meant to keep the door closed. Unlike a trolley motor that uses an arm to keep the door tightly closed. A wall mount motor will be kept tight with the automatic door lock which should be installed just above one of the rollers. Some homeowners chose to install 2 auto door locks for added protection.
@@sosgds thank you.. now that i more clearly understand the mechanics i am surprised that "they" have devised a set of lower Shives sp? to allow the motor to actually pull the door tight to the floor especially an uneven floor...
I just had two of these put in. I have a question to why the battery seems like it needs to charge even when it has not been used. The display says the battery is half on both of them but power has not been off. Dose battery charger turn off till battery gets so low and then turn back on?
Hello! Great question. Usually after the initial installation the batteries they will take time to charge. But these motors do use and draw power of the battery backup to operate. This is part of how they power the DC motor. This very issue is not spoken about of this motor. Thus it will draw power but also recharge after use.
Thank you! Yes. You can use this link for an 18 gauge wire that offers a 100 foot spool. Amazon Affiliate Links might pay us a commission: amzn.to/3uluqou
The major flaw in the lift master is no one mentions how it runs the cables off the rollers. If you don’t have enough weight for gravity to start the door to close it obviously turns the the torsion bar while the door just sit there and the cable gets unrolled. Spring pushers help if you get the set exactly. The motor is not strong enough to fully push the spring back enough to get enough exertion on the door to get it started down. You can set it to not fully open but you lose a foot of door height.
...not a bad idea, add compression springs to the end of the rails, to get the door moving in the downward direction, would fight the torsion spring at the end of travel, but the torsion spring has little torque on it in the up position. Once gravity takes over, there is no issue.
@@SK-qc6fb that’s what I did. It took a few try’s at positioning the springs so as to have enough push without putting strain on the opener. Doesn’t take much push or compression of the springs.
@@arnoldjohnson3317 Wow, just looked on the internet, they sell exactly what we are talking about, they should get rid of the Stupid! Cable Tension monitor and just add these bumpers with the compression springs, it looks like a real and reliable solution! Am going to move on that with the Genie door opener that comes with the spring loaded cable tensioners and the software that starts the down movement slow until gravity takes over. I cant believe none of these companies and you tubers talk about the unspooling issue??...and a solution!
@@SK-qc6fb keep in mid those springs are pushing the door whatever speed your opener moves, slow or moderate. These side openers work ideally on shops with no ceiling and slanted doors. Constant down pressure because the door track follows the roof angle.
@@fernandopenah you would need to purchase an adapter to work for the torque Master spring system. But I don't think it's a very good adapter. What I suggest is converting your torque Master spring system to a torsion spring system. That way you can utilize the liftmaster 8500 w.
Very good question. The idea behind wiring the wall mount motor is both ease and potential failures in the future. The ease is based on wiring from the motor that is next to the garage door all the way over to the man door that enters your home. Clearly it's an impossible task, yet it is tedious and LiftMaster does not offer enough wiring to make a seamless connection. That idea supports my second point, potential failures in the future. With the wire you get in the box, you have no other choice but to splice it. Bad connections. Wear and Tear. And things of the sort can cause potential problems to the motor operation. Thus I almost always install a wireless button closer to the man door to mitigate those potential issues.
@@sosgds I don't think you understood my comment. Just buy a longer spool of wire when you're at Home Depot buying the garage door opener. As for me, I brought my last opener home, discovered not enough wire, wanted to replace what was already there so I took another trip to Home Depot and bought more. No one is forced to splice anything. I also don't use the garbage wax seal that used to come with toilets. Always buy the better stuff.
I see your point. In fact I've done it myself. I'm simply saying that you shouldn't have to. The manufacturer should recognize that this scenario of needing longer wire is going to be necessary for all installs. But they don't do anything about it. And this we have to spend more money to buy a spool of wire. But it is what it is and of course these companies don't care. They only care about selling units and their bottom line.
Great video….thanks for sharing. Do you have any thoughts on installing a 8500W on a cargo trailer rear door/ramp that has 2 torsion springs? I mean it is 12VDC.
@@sosgds Thanks for replying sir. You’re right and I get that. I was just curious as to if that was a possible solution in case one decided to do so. Can a CAT6 cable work though. Sorry but I’m thinking of buying this unit and I am just wondering.
@@pf5658 no worries! I appreciate your feedback. Yes CAT5 and 6 should work. I've used those two and simple Brown Bell wire from home depot. It's all low voltage so any of those variables or options should work.
i'm thinking about going with one of these for my new house, but I've heard about the deadbolts failing and locking people out, and the circuitry failing causing the garage door to open randomly on its own. Have Liftmaster addressed this or fixed it? Regarding the deadbolts, people were saying the inner bits are all plastic. Could it be taken apart and upgraded to metal? Thanks!
Hello! Thank you for the question. No, unfortunately I don't believe are any safe methods to upgrade the 841LM (auto door lock) with metal. Now, LiftMaster has does a better job getting their auto door locks to work better. In the past year I have yet to replace one from the many installs I've performed. As for the logic board issues, that's news to me. The 8500W has not had any problems with their boards. The older 8500 was plagued with board issues. So that's probably what they are talking about.
@@sosgds Thanks! Yea I think the issue was in the controller (888LM?) and Liftmaster was replacing them and warranting them until 2023. Issues seemed to pop up like clock work around the three year mark. I’m going to try it out and hope for the best!
I’ve been installing this style openers for almost 14 years and I’ve never seen a deadbolt lock fail and there is several different styles of this opener. The only problem I’ve ran into is they won’t work on low headroom unless you specifically ask for it cause you have to reverse the polarity
Thanks again for the great feedback. The experience with this motor has been all over the place. I'm glad you haven't had any trouble with automatic door lock. I've had to replace several of them. And I have found a few, not many, of these motors with the cable tension monitor hacked or "omitted" from the motors. They keep the cable tension module clipped into the motor but it's been modified to no trip or cause a failure in closing. Not an ideal choice, but I understand why some installers would go that route.
Hello! The difference between these two : the 8500W has built in WiFi. The 8500 needs an additional accessory to use WiFi. The 8500 offers a 24V Battery Backup. Aside from some minor aesthetic differences these two motors function in a similar way.
Hello, thank you for the video. Looking to get new garage doors (insulated) with both high lift and jackshaft. I knew about the LM8500W but was introduced to the Genie 6170HB today when a Wayne Dalton dealer came to the home. Now I am seeing mixed reviews between the 2 and cannot decide. 1st question is, if my existing wall mounted remote is hardwired, could I use that existing line (bell wire as you call it) for either product (will be checking if hardwired later)? 2nd, has the locking feature of the LM8500W been improved since this video was released? 3rd, the tension management for Genie 6170HB appears to be better, do you know if an improvement on the LM8500W now that LM has some competition? Finally, have you gotten a Genie yourself and is your original "King" of openers still stand or have you crowned a new King? Thank you again for the video.
Great questions. Let me start from the back to front. Yes, I own a 6170HB but for my main door I utilize the Genie 3120L. To my knowledge the 841LM automatic door lock has not been updated. I still replace a few from time to time. None of the newer trolley motors have the options to include an automatic door lock. Thus it will be exclusive to this motor. The same will apply to the cable tension monitor. I have yet to see an update. Failures to this specific part are far and few. Lastly, you can use the existing wall button bell wire to your current garage door system. Now I do feel the Genie 6170 is King for installers. The software based cable tension system is very keen to the motors operation. Additionally, I have been able to install this motor is smaller and tighter spaces than the 8500W. That being said, if you want the superior app experience then you want to stay with MyQ. Y'all stay safe!
Would this motor be good for a 3 car garage? I currently have three motors hanging kind of an eye sore plus they are very old..and I’m thinking of changing them to a more sleek modern design
@@saitekina_og9271 you should be ok. But it's the space will matter up above where the torsion tube sticks out. If you can assure sufficient space above you should be good.
I loved your "One Major Flaw" review, but you completely missed it. The BIGGEST flaw of Liftmaster is their lack of 2FA support. It's like inviting the hackers into your own house. Even their own blog had an article urging the customers to use 2FA for extra security, but they themselves do NOT have 2FA capability. What a cliché!! You really need to do another video regarding "The Biggest Flaw of ALL" for Liftmaster's products.
Hello. It looks like that type of error code will have to deal with the cable tension monitor. Now there's a couple of variables that you need to take into account. You specifically want to make sure that your door is properly balanced and there's no obstruction opening or closing it. In addition to that you want to make sure that your cable tension monitor is properly connected to the motor. Yet if after these efforts you still have that error code then you more than likely have a bad cable tension monitor. Hope this helps.
Still like it better then Genie / OHD. You couldn’t pay me to use their products. Just remember LiftMaster is the #1 professionally installed garage door opener not Genie not OHD not linear not guadian. Most new installations are prewired so you don’t need the wire in the box. I’d know because I’m a licensed electrician.
Hey Sam! Thanks for the feedback. LiftMaster has definitely dominated market with their excellent product line. Truth be told, I love the 8500W. But I do a lot of retrofit where there is not existing wiring. So this has become an issue with many of my customers. As an electrician, do you recommend a particular bell wire that is not the dark brown wire that you can get from the local hardware store?
Thanks for the question Cole. The first Excelerators were an effort to transition into a DC motor for screw drives. But they were plagued with so many logic board issues that I think customers were fleeing to Chamberlain/LiftMaster. Aside from applying some minor repairs to that motor (trolley carriage, coupler, sensors) I really don't waste my time with it. I offer the customer a replacement.
That's very true! And most newer homes come hardwired into the garage. Yet the wire that LiftMaster provide albeit minimal should at least come at the proper distance. Many DIYers complain that wiring is just not enough for the placement of the wall button. What wire gauge do you prefer to install? Which wall mount garage door opener is your favorite?
The interlock and cable tensioner are super easy to install. As far as 2-wire being too short…😂. Any installer who doesn’t carry at least 1 box of 22-2 wire is not a professional in my opinion. Splicing the wire is hack and should only be done when a house is pre wired. Much like carrying wood for center pads or in this case the tensioner. The real flaw with the 8500 is when a salesman sells this unit on a LHR inside pull torsion setup. It can be done but it takes a near perfect door and operator install to get it to work properly as the top section will want to fall backwards in the LhR track. It takes finesse to get it just right where the doorway is fully sealed.
Thank you for sharing your feedback. I think what most dealer installers forget about the LiftMaster 8500w is that it's sold through major retail channels like Amazon and even EBay. Thus for the average home consumer, finding that the wire is not long enough to run wall console is a flaw for the overall experience. I get that professionals will utilize longer wire to get the job done. Yet it's the fact of having to purchase more wire that LiftMaster has yet to address. Additionally there's a number of hacks that anyone can do on these wall mount garage door opener motors. None of which any manufacturer will say is possible. For example I can't get LiftMaster or Genie to outright say their wall mount garage door opener motors will operate on reverse torsion lowhead track assemblies. Now I know it's possible but not even the manufacturers will encourage that their Motors are the standards for those types of garage door configurations. At any rate I feel that now that LiftMaster will be coming out with a wall mount garage door opener motor that will not require a cable tension monitor it might give these companies an incentive to find more applications for these types of motors. By the way I would love to see that low head track reverse torsion job that you were talking about. Do you have a social media that you post on?
@@sosgds I don’t have social media yet but will soon. I’ve been taking before and after pics everyday for years with the intention of making a website or twitter account around garage doors. The setup i was talking about uses LHR tracks where you use standard bottom fixtures instead of the LHR ones, the top fixtures stay the same. You carefully cut back the top LHR track so the drums and cables mount to the inside of the tracks like a standard torsion install. So you get the benefits of LHR track in a tight space and the benefit of a standard torsion assy with the cables hidden inside instead of outside like a normal LhR torsion. This is also useful when headroom and side room are both issues. I hate regular LHR, especially LHR torsion so now do all these installs using the inside pull method. I do a ton of work in the Boston area where the garages are always tight in every way so it comes in handy.
Let me save you 10 minutes. The ‘flaw’ is that the wire provided for connecting the opener to the control at the people door is too short. So be prepared to splice the wire or buy a longer roll.
Houses are wired for wall button and photo eyes with cat 5 wire for over head opener Use original wall button wire and splice into photo eye wire hanging from ceiling to reach the unit. problem solved
Hello. This video is simply presenting an issue that a homeowner might find annoying. The reality is LiftMaster has yet to offer a longer wire solution for this motor while their competition has. It's food for thought.
What a deceiving video. They sell spools of this type of wire at your local hardware store if you need a longer run. How is this a flaw in the product itself??
Thanks for your feedback. But is it not also deceiving to purchase a high dollar product and find that they did not offer sufficient wiring for it? Do you really want to spend time and gas to travel to the hardware store just for wiring? What would the homeowner think about the whole overall experience of their purchase? That's the premise, focus, and target of this video ... The homeowner, Avid DIYer, and New Installer. All are expecting a smooth experience. If they know that they will not get sufficient wiring before committing to their purchase or install then the video has served its purpose.
Very good question. It so happens that I do carry extra wire with me when it comes to these particular jobs. But because this particular product can be bought wholesale and sometimes through retail channels, most customers will not be prepared. In fact when I offer the customer the opportunity to have a longer wire installed they are not crazy about the idea of having it stapled above on their ceiling. And it would cost more to do in wall work. In addition to that having a longer wire does create more challenges in the future with pinched lines and small rodents chewing on the line. At the end of the day the solution I tried to provide is something that will give the customer a more long-term benefit and a little bit more peace of mind.
by definition, the cable length is NOT a technical flaw. definitely not something to make a video about. this is coming from the worlds youngest master technician with over 14 years of experience and father with over 30 years of experience, combined 45 years. the word you're looking for is INCONVENIENT; otherwise you're using the word "flaw" incorrectly. have a good day!
I agree wire length is not a flaw. Most customers want the wall button next to the garage door as well as the entry door. The wireless button fulfills their needs easily. And what technician doesn’t have barrels of unused wire left over from pre wired new construction jobs? The amount of wire would not cause me to buy another brand.
This garage door is a POS and fails all of the time. Stay away. The lift Jack system in general is awful and dangerous due to torque and weight when failures happen. Then you have to pay $500 to have qualified technicians just to help lift the effin door.
@@sosgds Well see if it's lifting anything after the storm passes. Should be good as I got it down. The cable had somehow jostled out of the drums and they were wrapping up on the crank shaft. Not good. We're going to have to have someone look at it. Gives error 5-3 and that doesn't pop up in the manuals when I search. Also a negative. Could be me though. Nothing we can do ATM.
He forgot to say that genie wire is not only for the Wall button. That long wire he showed on the video is for two separate sensors and wall button. Which is a pain in the butt to deal with, because you need to connect each one individually... How can that guy be a professional?!
Hey Blue Taco, so what I'm hearing you say is " Thanks for sharing your expertise as a licensed garage contractor and providing us with free and informative content that might be a little long winded but important for the average viewer that can sit thru a 10+ minute video. Keeping working harder to making these videos better for all that are looking for guidance on making a sound buying decision" Thanks for the feedback.
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Easy fix : Install a wireless unit wherever the customer wants it and install the original wall button close to the unit for programming purposes.
I have been in situation where the customer does not want to see a wire running along the walls all the way to the wall button. That's how I have done and the customers are as happy as they can be.
Good info , A++ channel.Keep the good work coming.
Thanks for the support! Stay safe party person!
this seems like a good solution- may go this route
Does the wired one even have to be installed or could I just use the wireless one ? all I need is to be able to just open and close the door .
Whoa!! 885LM I could've used in a scenario I just had. Thanks for this video Santiago. I've kinda fell off the LiftMaster wagon for a minute and didn't even realize this wall console was a thing. So thankful for your channel. Whenever I have a customer wanting a good review or breakdown, I send them here. Good stuff brother!
Thank you Richard! Yeah I mostly do retrofit installs. And this one of the challenges I find most with this motor. I loved your last video my friend. The POV (point of view) shots are very helpful. I'm gonna try to incorporate more shots like this.
The 885Lm is fine but you still need to install the hardwired button(typically on the door jamb) if you want the Wi-Fi to work. It won’t work otherwise.
The wire is crappy. We have one of these openers and we have had it four years. We open it partially about ten time a day to let our dog in and out. We love it and have never had any problems with it on our R-18 doors.
Excellent video. Very informative and clearly communicated. I haven’t heard much about this but in my opinion the wireless antenna has a short distance range. I’ve had a tough time several times getting a Wi-Fi connection established and had to resort to a network range extender very close by. None of my mobile devices and laptops, Alexa and Google Home, etc. have any issues connecting in my garage. Other than this, it was an easy install and has worked perfectly on my 9’ x 16’ door. I highly recommend this GDO.
Hello! Thank you for your feedback! It is a great piece of garage door tech.
Great video as usual, I always connect the cable tension monitor as well as the auto deadbolt... they are a must that should never be bypassed. One gripe i have on the 8500 is the collar, If you run the tube into the machine and then tighten the collar tight enough to not slip on a heavy door the set screws will put an indentation into the motor sleeve AND the torsion tube inside of that sleeve making it virtually impossible to get the tube back out in the future for spring repairs etc etc. Yes some will say well... don't tighten it so much but on a monster door the collar slipping is always a possibility so finding that perfect sweet spot can be real tough.
Yes! That's so true! I run to that often. In most cases if the tube is too damaged I would offer to replace tube. But this is a really good point. Thanks for the great feedback!
If it’s a bigger door I usually drill a hole in the shaft where one of the set screws will set in it and it can’t slip and it’s easy to get back apart for repair
Thanks for the feedback Matthew. That's a great pro tip!
What’s the biggest door you guys have ever put an 8500 on?
@@CanadianDoorMan a 16x8 metal backed insulated.
IVE installed hundreds of these and I was shocked when you said wire , liftmaster wouldn't mind giving you extra wire, I would say the major flaw of the 8500 is installing the Cable tensioner correctly Homes are sometimes not framed for it so you gotta add support behind sheetrock
Thanks again for the feedback Mr. Jesse. I agree with you about way homes are built today. So see this video and think that I am speaking of a technical issue or something mechanical. The truth is this video is based on the installers perspective of a perfect install. I know there is no such thing as a perfect installation when it comes to the 8500W. But I wanted to come out with video and offer some solutions when the lack of wire becomes an issue for the customer. Appreciate your comment!
Not to mention it’s almost impossible to install in low headroom applications. The only MAJOR flaw I’ve experienced is the travel module seems to be WAY to delicate. I’ve had to replace a dozen of these things, and the 8500w is a bit of a pain to disassemble.
@@terrible0ne So what would you say is the ideal square footage to have the wall mounted garage openers installed? Example my garage is approximately 385 ft and 8.2 ft in height.
@@sarek8472 I’m not sure I understand your question. These machines are good up to 14’ tall according to Liftmaster. I prob wouldn’t go above 14 x 14. I had one on a 16 x 8 solid wood door with 3’ highlift and it ran with no issues for 11 years.
@@terrible0neyou answered it I was asking what is the ideal square footage for this type of garage door opener.
Thank you for making this video, it was very helpful. Thanks for pointing out the problems and how to fix it.. maybe the Mfg. might see your video and fix the problem
Thank you! I hope so too!
Nice video.....I fix a lot of these that have thrown cables for various reasons...not my favorite op..usually fixed by leveling track, adjusting springs or installing 10 4 drums ....the drums are a definitive fix
The one major flaw is the tiny set scew that attaches the travel module drive gear to the main shaft.
Just returned a the equiv Chamberlin to HD, cable kept unspooling, now considering the one with the included cable keepers.
Be aware, a prerequisite for this type of opener is Gravity. Be aware the door is decoupled from the opener.
The opener only turns the torsion shaft with the cable spool, it doesnot move the door itself, even with the cable keeper it only turns the shaft. A major assumption is that if the shaft turns, the door will go down.
The opener only produces slack in the cable, with the assumption the door will follow. Going up is no issue, as there is great tension on the cable in that direction.
Also, if there is still energy stored in the torsion spring, this will be acting against gravity, so you may also need to adust the spring tension. It seems a high ceiling and a significant rail pitch (for gravity to help more) would be most helpful too.
Yes, the 8500W is a big improvement over it's predecesdor, the 8500 Elite. With the 8500W being way easier to program the limits; other wireless devices & the fact it has battery backup makes it a winner in my book. It also has a lift rating of 850 lbs with a properly balanced sprung door is also a benefit for larger doors.
I am buying my first garage door opener, and all of this is French to me. I just hope I made the right decision and find someone to install it. : )
My deadbolt failed after a few years, and I simply omitted it. The door is still secured in the closed position when the opener drive engaged.
September 1, 2023
Hello Sir. I have a Question// I had to pull the Emergency Release on two 8500W openers. Now my problem is they won't reconnect ?? the pull roop is still pulled down and won’t go back up. Please help ??? Luis from PITTSBURGH
I just saw something on this in another video, the rep at liftmaster told him that you have to pull real hard on it for it to click back, a lot harder than he thought he would have to
Exactly what I did i pulled really hard and it reset !! THANK YOU. Everyone
@@louistrapizona7254 omg...i have same issue....like Really hard??
Hi , I just installed a lift master 8500 w. Everything is working properly but the unit has a wobble as it opens and closes. What can I do to fix this. Thanks for your time I appreciate it. Ted.
Hello Ted! Thanks for the question.
A slight wobble is common. Yet if the wobble is excessive, the bracket to the 8500 may need to be secured or fastened tighter. You can also add an end bearing plate to the torsion tube to stabilize the walking or movement of the tube.
You need wire for the Genie sensors. The Chamberlain sensors come pre wired. Thats why you get less.
It depends if the wiring is still good. After time the wires become worn or damaged.
Does this unit break sometimes or require Maintenance? Is it a good unit if you open and close you’re garage 15 times a day or will it wear out more quickly? I don’t care about having space over my head I just need a quiet unit and reliable. Thank you
Hello. Most motors will accomplish opening an average of 10 to 15 cycles a day. The reality is with that type of use any garage door motor will require maintenance. Additionally, you also want to think about the maintenance your garage door will need if you open and close multiple times a day. Nevertheless, I think you will be happy with this motor.
Your torsion springs will break before the door opener.
No. Biggest problem is the emergency rope jams a lot! Any tips on how best to unjam it? My door is stuck because my rope wont reclick
Excellent point! Yes you're going to have to open up the cover to the garage door opener. What happens with that gear assembly inside is that it rust out and it needs to be maneuvered so that way it engages into the gear. It's hard to explain through this comment but I might have to find a video that I recorded that highlights it.
@@sosgds please make that video!!
The 885LM has its flaws too... they have the little cover on the front that flips up where the light and lock ususally are, but there's nothing there. They could have easily put the battery there so you can get at it easily, but no, you have to take it off the wall and then take the circuit board out. Idk how that got approved
Yeah that is a small little flaw ... A nuisance at best.
It takes less than a minute to change out the battery
2 screws are a 1/4 inch long and one is an inch long
I’m not sure how they could make it any easier
I would say the major flaw is the coupling they provide. No matter how tight I tighten the coupling to the shaft it keeps coming undone
Hello. This is common on any wall mount motor. If tightening does not remedy the issue then it's best to replace the coupler.
Remove the set screws and use a dab red loc tite on the threads
Thank you so much for posting this video!!!
I just spoke with someone from Liftmaster this morning about this wall controller.
The guy told me that the 885LM works with the 8500W only (not the 8500), and does not need another controller that is wired for it to work.
Is this accurate information?
I'd like to try to get away with have to run any wire for the wall controller.
Thanks so much for your help and I love your channel. 👍
Thank you so much! And that's a great question. Now can you tell me if the learn code button to your current 8500 model garage door opener is purple or yellow. Usually the button to this motor was a purple and black button to set both the travel limits, four settings, and remote programming. But you could also have the model that also has the yellow and black button which also serves for the same programming functions. If you can confirm that for me then I believe we can hone in on getting a proper wireless wall button for you.
@@sosgds Thank you so much for getting back to me, I really appreciate it.
Well the problem is, is that I don't own the 8500W YET.
I am looking into purchasing it and I was doing research, and then I looked into the wireless mount. Which then led me to your video....talk about a coincidence!!😃
So like I said, Liftmaster told me that was the only wall mount unit, 8500W, it could be used with. But I thought I'd better ask you to verify. I did see something about a yellow learn button had to be on the opener but I don't know if the unit has that or not.
I want to keep my options open for for each opener opener and then make my decision from there. I don't need an opener with Wi-Fi or anything like that but having the wireless wall console is really nice.
I see. Well the WiFi does not necessarily need to be turned on or utilized, but I do find that it's a very convenient feature. Have you checked out the Genie 6070 wall mount motor?
@@JoeLazzara Did you get a correct answer yet ? I also don't want any wires.
Thanks for the video. i love the comments, sometimes they help just as much as the video. I've been researching openers. trying to find out which motor size I need for my 15x10ft garage door. I have no clue if it weighs more than 850# Question, do you install outlet to the unit too? I'm just asking because I have a 1200sq ft garage that has 30 amps service old fuses. I've been trying to get people to work or at least be reasonable about installing a 100amp service but it's hard to get people that have even an ounce of integrity. one company wanted 2000$ just to dig the trench 50ft to drop the wire. I politely declined when i saw that estimate. I can rent a trencher for a month for 1000$ at home depot. .Anyway, I decided to just get a door opener before the 100 amp service install. hoping that opener doesn't require that much amperage.
Hello! Thanks for sharing your experience. For this motor you simply need a 20 amp breaker. The DC motor has more than enough torque for the door. Yet, I find that the Genie 6170 offers better performance on taller doors.
Thank you so much for your input. I will take what you said under advisement! Happy New Year
The door has to be working flawlessly with those openers. No room for error. We only install them if there is no way out
I agree, I never recommend these motors unless the situation calls for it. Traditional rail motors are the way to go.
@@CanadianDoorMan that cable tensioner almost serves no purpose whatsoever. Whenever the motor will close it by the tube, it will almost all the time have a little slack on the cables, which causes so many callbacks. Why not just takeoff those cable tensioners and just use the motor with sensitivity force if the spring breaks. 🤦♂️
@@1agaragedoorssacramento I never understood those ridiculous cable tensioners. All in all I find the motors over priced for an inferior product. Crazy thing is so many people are going with these things. Majority of the motors I’ve installed this year have been side mounts.
I've been watching a lot of videos how to install a garage opener, as mine, Crafstman 1995, recently just died, and accidentally I noticed your channel. Great work and very informative ! Having a very havy wooden door 16 feet long, I wanted to make a carefull choice and I went on a binge watching almost all your videos. At the end, I decided for 1hp Sommer evo+. I would love to know your opinion abaout this garage door opener. All the best !
Hello. I am glad you are finding the channel and it's content useful.
Tell me ... You mentioned that your garage door is wood. Does it swing up or rollup? Do you know the type of track assembly that you have? Is it a standard 12" track or do you have a low head track?
@@sosgds Thank you so much for your response ! I have a low head track as the ceiling is 9 ft tall. The springs are mounted in the rear. The door is sectional and the track unity has a separate track for the top section roller. The house was build in 1955, and the garage door opener, Crafstman, was made in 1995, so I believe that it has the technology of that era. Any input, it would be much appreciated.
Wow. Those are special circumstances. The Sommer motor should be able to work within that configuration. I would also consider one of the new Genie motors, like the 3120 or 2128. Your best bet it to keep the travel of the motor nice and slow. In addition, ensure that your garage door balance is acceptable. Low head track doors are not easy to keep balanced thus the key will rely on proper and regular maintenance to the garage door. I hope this help.
What's your thought on the Chamberlain Smart Garage Door Opener - Wall Mounted??
Hello. It's practically identical to the LiftMaster 8500W. I have found that the RJO70 comes with the same challenges as the 8500W. The automatic door lock fails within a year and the cable tension monitor is too sensitive. Thus I would invest my money on the 8500W or the Genie 6170.
@@sosgds thank you appreciate you getting back to me
LOL I've actually used Ethernet cable before to wire this operator because of wiring issues.
Interesting.
Wow, I wish I had seen this 6 months ago. I had 3 high lift doors installed, two of the LJ8900W jack shaft motors are over 10 ft high, the other is 12 ft high. Needless to say the first time I had to get a ladder to re-pair the myQ app to connect to my phone I knew there was a big problem. They, like you said used the 3- 885LM wireless buttons at the entry door which is great because we didn't have to run a wire all the way over there. Needless to say when I figured out I was going to have to be climbing the ladder if I had to pair them again, the 880LMW was the only way I was going to be able to do this from ground level,. They did install these with the short wire below each jack shaft at ground level today, get this..where they had installed 3-cheap green button wired openers. I guess my biggest disappointment is they wanted to charge me over $700 to install the 3- 880LMW's and 3- 827LM Led lights. However it's completed and I hope I have it all covered "^MONTHS LATE-R"
Thanks for the video, just wish I'd seen it earlier!
Btw I have not had, nor was it recommended that I install the "Cable Tension Monitor, should I look into that? One other thing why would you need a lock when it's connected to the shaft, can it be forced open???
Hello. Wow this is great feedback! Thank you for sharing your experience. Let me answer your questions about the Cable Tension Monitor and the 841LM automatic door lock.
The Cable Tension Monitor is peripheral that has to be installed in order to function properly. Some dealer contractors have become creative in bypassing that specific part. The reason: The CTM fails often. Additionally, if the garage door has poor balance the CTM will trip constantly. It's a headache for sure.
The 841LM auto door lock was also one of the peripherals that failed often. In fact it has been discontinued to work with the conventional overhead motors. And yes the door lock was put into place to avoid someone from opening the garage door from the outside.
Without making any disparaging remarks about the dealer contractors that installed your garage door system your options should have been communicated to you beforehand. At that point they would have explained the benefits and cost difference. Now if I'm not mistake the LJ8900W would require a difference smart wall button. I could be wrong, but the 880LMW is not compatible with the LJ8900W. I'd have to investigate that bit more to get your a confirmation.
@@sosgds Thanks for you reply, so far the 880LMW is working seamlessly all functions seem to work fine and programming is easy. Also since I posted this I've checked and there are cable tension monitors installed. I'm very happy with the system and the operation is super quick and quiet. Thanks again sir!!
could I have both ??? I have the 880LMW just under my garage door motor but wanted it closer to my home door but because didn't have enough wiring the installer said I couldn't. This would fix my problem. Oh and after only 2 years my jackshaft door lock is already broken.
Hello. Yes you can use both a wired wall button and wireless wall button. I'm not surprised to hear that about the door lock.
@@sosgds I installed over the weekend the new door lock that they sent me to replace the broken one. When I finished installing it, I get to the connection part and notice that it's a 3 pin that I have on the motor but the door lock that they sent me has only 2 pins so can't connect it. Waiting for feedback from were I got it from.
I'm prewiring my garage. What AWG do you recommend? Thanks for the great videos!
Thank you! I prefer 12 gauge. Simple bell wire.
18ga bell, not 12 lol omg
Given the voltage, amperage and distance, 20 ga is adequate. Larger is wasting money.
Can the 8500W be installed in any or lost residential installations. I’ve had an installer not recommend the 8500w today and insisted that I go with the overhead style opener. I don’t know if its because he doesn’t like installing them or does he make more money on the other units. I have an overhead beam that runs across my garage but the door clears the beam just fine . I would really prefer to have a 8500 style type of opener. Any advice or help is greatly appreciated. It’s a normal 16x8 garage door
Hello. Good question. The 8500W is a ver versatile motor which can fit most garage door configurations. And even though it can work on a 3.5 low head track it has limitations. Thus if you have a low head track assembly that might have been the reason why he suggested an overhead motor.
I have three of these in my garage. The opener moves side to side while operating. My garage door guy installed the screws a little loose to accommodate movement and said that's how they are designed. Is there supposed to be lateral movement while the door is opening and closing?
Hello. I completely know what you are talking about. It's a slight movement as the door travels. It can be considered normal based on how it is responding to the door. One of the main reasons why this happens is because of the way the torsion tube is placed. In reality, wall mount motors require that the torsion spring system, starting from the tube be plum straight. If the tube is off a certain way or perhaps there's a variance to the how the tube there this will manifest in a slight wobble or movement from the motor. Hope this answers your question.
you think the biggest flaw is short cable?
I have fixed a lot of these doors and I’ll tell you the biggest problem is that it relies on gravity.
So what I see too often is the door shifts and binds or gets stuck somehow.
Multiple things can impede the fall of the door over the years and as soon as that happens, it takes a whole readjustment of the tracks or new wheels, etc..
And God for bid you didn’t have the cable tensioner sensor on because I’ve seen a lot of bound up doors with bound up cable.
So much so that it will be in the track as it goes crooked.
Constantly fixing these doors with these openers.
But the old style pulls it up and pushes it down. A lot less can go wrong.
Thanks for the feedback. I see a number of issues when it comes to these motors. The installation depends greatly on the condition of the door. Yet those issues deal with something existential, such as poor door balance, a torsion spring system that was misaligned, or a warped door jamb. But the flaw addressed in this video is the out of box experience. LiftMaster makes no attempt to provide longer bell wire when it should. It's a simple remedy that is not even being considered or rectified. Customers need to know that before making a purchase.
Love you videos! I was curious from a space perspective, which of the two units 8500W and the 6172H-B are the most compact. I have a 3 bay door system and the space between door 1 and 2 or door 2 and 3 is right about 7 3/4 inches from wheel to wheel not accounting for the tension rod. I have seen quite a few installed in what seems to be the same or smaller space but wanted to get your opinion. Thank you
Thank you for the support! In the case of the LiftMaster 8500W you'll need at least 9" from the torsion tube. As for the Genie you will can get away 7" from the torsion tube.
Now, just to clarify you want to install two motor next to each other between doors 1 & 2 or door 2 & 3 correct? If you have the ability, shoot me a picture of the spacing you speak of please. sosgdoservice@gmail.com
Thank you again, I sent a few photos
Mine have been nothing but issues with the cables coming off the pully and wrapping tightly on the shaft . I tried to shut them today and again one worked the other one wrapped on the shaft . Now my door is stuck 3/4 open . My garage door guys act like I’m hanging off of them or shutting them on stuff but it’s not the case . Any ideas ???!
Hello. From what you're describing there's an imbalance happening with your garage door. I almost want to say that your bottom garage door section might be rubbing or bumping up against the door jambs. This could cause the cables to become loose. Another possibility could be your hinges. If your garage door contractor is willing to inspect these items it could lead to a solution. Hope this helps.
My problem with this door opener is that it is to sensitive. When I set my down limit it will not squeeze the bottom door seal. The force limits can no longer be adjusted. I have water running into my garage under the door when it rains hard. Has anyone figured out how to bypass the force limits on the 8500w.
Nice video! I love the 8500 opener as well. Installed for six years. I feel like I learned about another flaw or two. If the tension wire comes off one of the spools on the torque shaft, is that an indicator that the torsion spring is beginning to fail? (cable tension monitor is working fine). In order to retension the wire, does the unit need to be removed from the wall? Whereas with a standard type of overhead door, I don't think such steps are needed. Another flaw is the wall unit - eventually the capacitors fail and need to be replaced. Thanks for your thoughts on this opener.
Hello. Very good question. Yes the slack of the cable can be an indication of need of maintenance, or spring failure, or cable failure. So if you haven't had the garage door serviced then I would start there. I haven't had a capacitor fail yet. But I will have to look out for it. Thanks for feedback!
Santiago, Would you address the problem I'm having with Liftmaster 8500. It is cycling. Up down up down. What's the issue?
Hello. Thank you for your question. Does the motor cycle only once? Are you able to manually lift the door by hand?
If I decided to install the wall controller closer to the door opener and further away from my door entering the garage, does it impact the effectiveness of the motion sensor? I am guessing it does and would require me to walk further into the garage to turn of the light.
HELP!! I have the 8500, and the pull cord won’t engage. I had a power outage, and it won’t work now. Power is restored. Just goes up and down when I pull on it.
Hello. I believe the limits are thrown off. You can disengage the motor by pulling on the string. Close the door manually. Engage the motor by pulling back on the emergency cord again. Slide the automatic door lock. This should give you a starting point.
From here you want to reset or reprogram the garage door limits. LiftMaster does have a video on it. It's easy to follow.
I really appreciate the prompt response, thank you. The cord will not engage or disengage the motor. It just travels up and down a few inches. As if something inside is disconnected from the cord itself.
Hello! Yes ... It's possible the gear has gone bad. They are made of hard poly-carbonate material. Additionally, you could have a bad travel module. If by pulling the cord to the up position and lifting the door a bit to engage does not do the trick, then it will be a bad gear assembly.
@@sosgds First, let me say again how much I appreciate you responding and a fast as you did. I’ll recommend your page to friends and family ❤️ I was taken by a repair person my home warranty people sent out. He told me it was bad, and would be back the next day. No show!! I went out and pulled harder on the cord, and there’s nothing wrong with it. I took your advice and watched how to program the opener, and presto!! Works like a charm. Thank for you page and knowledge I’ll be checking back in!👍🏽
We had are 8500 previously installed and then one night it opened by itself? I closed the garage door by pressing the garage door button on the wall and once it closed it opened back up.
Now I unplugged the garage door open and then plugged it back in and it made a humming sound as if it was trying to open. Any thoughts?
Thank you and stay safe!
Hello. That is irregular. Have you recently had a power outage?
It could be a logic board. You might have to simply reprogram the travel limits. Do you notice any blinking lights?
Thanks for the video, I have an issue with the cable tension monitor, while activating the down button, the motor will activate but then will shut off flashing the 3-5 code but once pressed again the door will proceed as normal. This a reoccurring matter if the door is open for longer then a minute. And usually is remedied by pressing button twice(sometimes 3 times). Any thoughts or suggestions? Thank you for your time.
Hello! Thank you for this great question. It's possible the balance to the door is off and there is slack in the cables. Or the cable tension monitor has a bad connection. Usually the balance is the culprit but in some cases you can apply cable keepers to reduce the slack to the cables and that might alleviate the problem. Hope that helps. Y'all stay safe.
@@sosgds Thank you for your reply! I will take a look at those items!
Force Limits may also need to be reset.
All you need to do is open the door push the yellow button on the operator twice the led light will blink rapidly press your wall button and the door will go down. Once the door is down push the wall button again the goes back up and once the door is fully open the led light on the operator should stop flashing. The force limits should be set.
Good video! What gauges are the different wires? They seen the same......Thanks...Jim
PS.....you would think that by now there would be a wall control with battery, that would work with the WiFi .......
Excellent point Jim! Yes I do believe they should offer a Bluetooth enabled wall console that would comes with all the bells and whistle. But we are probably still 2 iterations of this motor away from that. As for the wire gauges I couldn't tell you. But the Genie wire is very thin. To thin for my taste. Thanks again for the excellent question.
There is a wireless wall button control that looks identical to the flip open style with the learn button
So if I don't want any wires at all I can just use the 885LM and throw away the other one ?
Hello. I would not throw away the wall button. I would keep it for any future programming needs.
Why do we need to keep replacing the battery if it is powered by the ground wire?
A very good question. The battery is an acid battery. Unlike a lithium battery can recharge this battery does not.
Does the motor have a role in making sure a TIGHT floor seal .. or is it simply the door weight
Hello. That's a great question. The truth is the automatic door lock is meant to keep the door closed. Unlike a trolley motor that uses an arm to keep the door tightly closed. A wall mount motor will be kept tight with the automatic door lock which should be installed just above one of the rollers. Some homeowners chose to install 2 auto door locks for added protection.
@@sosgds thank you.. now that i more clearly understand the mechanics i am surprised that "they" have devised a set of lower Shives sp? to allow the motor to actually pull the door tight to the floor especially an uneven floor...
I just had two of these put in. I have a question to why the battery seems like it needs to charge even when it has not been used. The display says the battery is half on both of them but power has not been off. Dose battery charger turn off till battery gets so low and then turn back on?
Hello! Great question. Usually after the initial installation the batteries they will take time to charge. But these motors do use and draw power of the battery backup to operate. This is part of how they power the DC motor. This very issue is not spoken about of this motor. Thus it will draw power but also recharge after use.
@@sosgds
Thank you.
I was wondering why the battery on both was half. Also will this opener work without the battery just off the home current?
@@jameshess7865 it will but you will notice performance issues.
Thank you for the video! Are you able to provide a link for a longer version of quality wire I can purchase or maybe a brand?
Thank you! Yes. You can use this link for an 18 gauge wire that offers a 100 foot spool.
Amazon Affiliate Links might pay us a commission:
amzn.to/3uluqou
@@sosgdsamazing thank you!
The major flaw in the lift master is no one mentions how it runs the cables off the rollers. If you don’t have enough weight for gravity to start the door to close it obviously turns the the torsion bar while the door just sit there and the cable gets unrolled. Spring pushers help if you get the set exactly. The motor is not strong enough to fully push the spring back enough to get enough exertion on the door to get it started down. You can set it to not fully open but you lose a foot of door height.
Exactly!!
...not a bad idea, add compression springs to the end of the rails, to get the door moving in the downward direction, would fight the torsion spring at the end of travel, but the torsion spring has little torque on it in the up position. Once gravity takes over, there is no issue.
@@SK-qc6fb that’s what I did. It took a few try’s at positioning the springs so as to have enough push without putting strain on the opener. Doesn’t take much push or compression of the springs.
@@arnoldjohnson3317
Wow, just looked on the internet, they sell exactly what we are talking about, they should get rid of the Stupid! Cable Tension monitor and just add these bumpers with the compression springs, it looks like a real and reliable solution!
Am going to move on that with the Genie door opener that comes with the spring loaded cable tensioners and the software that starts the down movement slow until gravity takes over.
I cant believe none of these companies and you tubers talk about the unspooling issue??...and a solution!
@@SK-qc6fb keep in mid those springs are pushing the door whatever speed your opener moves, slow or moderate. These side openers work ideally on shops with no ceiling and slanted doors. Constant down pressure because the door track follows the roof angle.
Can these be used on Wayne Dalton’s spring system?
Hello. Do you mean the Wayne Dalton Torquemaster spring?
@@sosgds Yes, that’s it. Thanks
@@fernandopenah you would need to purchase an adapter to work for the torque Master spring system. But I don't think it's a very good adapter. What I suggest is converting your torque Master spring system to a torsion spring system. That way you can utilize the liftmaster 8500 w.
@@sosgds Gotcha. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
Hey Santiago! How do I reset 4-1 error code on 8500w liftmaster?
Hello. Do you see the arrows flash? Does the arrows flas 4 up and 1 down? Have you tested the balance garage door?
Seeing as how you can buy whatever length and quality wire you want I wouldn't call this a MAJOR flaw. Just them being cheap. How is this a flaw?
Very good question. The idea behind wiring the wall mount motor is both ease and potential failures in the future. The ease is based on wiring from the motor that is next to the garage door all the way over to the man door that enters your home. Clearly it's an impossible task, yet it is tedious and LiftMaster does not offer enough wiring to make a seamless connection. That idea supports my second point, potential failures in the future. With the wire you get in the box, you have no other choice but to splice it. Bad connections. Wear and Tear. And things of the sort can cause potential problems to the motor operation. Thus I almost always install a wireless button closer to the man door to mitigate those potential issues.
@@sosgds I don't think you understood my comment. Just buy a longer spool of wire when you're at Home Depot buying the garage door opener. As for me, I brought my last opener home, discovered not enough wire, wanted to replace what was already there so I took another trip to Home Depot and bought more. No one is forced to splice anything.
I also don't use the garbage wax seal that used to come with toilets. Always buy the better stuff.
I see your point. In fact I've done it myself. I'm simply saying that you shouldn't have to. The manufacturer should recognize that this scenario of needing longer wire is going to be necessary for all installs. But they don't do anything about it. And this we have to spend more money to buy a spool of wire. But it is what it is and of course these companies don't care. They only care about selling units and their bottom line.
Great video….thanks for sharing. Do you have any thoughts on installing a 8500W on a cargo trailer rear door/ramp that has 2 torsion springs? I mean it is 12VDC.
Hello. I have seen it done before just as long there's headroom space for the motor. Now, are the torsion springs rear mount or standard?
@@sosgds standard …..along the opening header.
It’s actually dual springs/spring tubes. I’m planning to mount the 8500W between the 2 spring tubes. I’ll be coupling both spring tubes.
Yes! That's awesome. You should have now problem doing that. Just make sure your spring balance is good. Happy installing!
@@sosgds thanks…..do you know what I can do with the sensors and tension sensor? No really applicable for this application.
Great video santiago
Thank you César!
👍👍👍
Can’t you just get a longer compatible wire and use it instead? Also, isn’t it low voltage and is it possible to use like a CAT6 cable?
Hello. Yes you could indeed. It's just the principle of having to buy the extra wire. Thanks for the feedback!
@@sosgds Thanks for replying sir. You’re right and I get that. I was just curious as to if that was a possible solution in case one decided to do so. Can a CAT6 cable work though. Sorry but I’m thinking of buying this unit and I am just wondering.
@@pf5658 no worries! I appreciate your feedback. Yes CAT5 and 6 should work. I've used those two and simple Brown Bell wire from home depot. It's all low voltage so any of those variables or options should work.
@@sosgds Thank you sir.😊
Explain how long & gauge of wire
Hello. No more than a 22 gauge wire. You want at least 25 to 30 feet.
Sir. Have 8500. Tension error code. I am a layman. How can i fix this error code?
Hello. I believe you speaking of the cable tension monitor. You might need to replace that part if there's an error code.
@@sosgds Code 3-5. Cable tension failure error. Is it possible to ask tech to remove the sensor box?
You're promoting Wayne Dalton doors by wearing that hat. I can't think of one person in our field that like builder doors.
i'm thinking about going with one of these for my new house, but I've heard about the deadbolts failing and locking people out, and the circuitry failing causing the garage door to open randomly on its own. Have Liftmaster addressed this or fixed it? Regarding the deadbolts, people were saying the inner bits are all plastic. Could it be taken apart and upgraded to metal? Thanks!
Hello! Thank you for the question. No, unfortunately I don't believe are any safe methods to upgrade the 841LM (auto door lock) with metal. Now, LiftMaster has does a better job getting their auto door locks to work better. In the past year I have yet to replace one from the many installs I've performed. As for the logic board issues, that's news to me. The 8500W has not had any problems with their boards. The older 8500 was plagued with board issues. So that's probably what they are talking about.
@@sosgds Thanks! Yea I think the issue was in the controller (888LM?) and Liftmaster was replacing them and warranting them until 2023. Issues seemed to pop up like clock work around the three year mark. I’m going to try it out and hope for the best!
I wish you the best. Thanks for your feedback. Stay safe party person!
I’ve been installing this style openers for almost 14 years and I’ve never seen a deadbolt lock fail and there is several different styles of this opener.
The only problem I’ve ran into is they won’t work on low headroom unless you specifically ask for it cause you have to reverse the polarity
Thanks again for the great feedback. The experience with this motor has been all over the place. I'm glad you haven't had any trouble with automatic door lock. I've had to replace several of them. And I have found a few, not many, of these motors with the cable tension monitor hacked or "omitted" from the motors. They keep the cable tension module clipped into the motor but it's been modified to no trip or cause a failure in closing. Not an ideal choice, but I understand why some installers would go that route.
What is the difference between 8500 and 8500 w
Hello! The difference between these two : the 8500W has built in WiFi. The 8500 needs an additional accessory to use WiFi.
The 8500 offers a 24V Battery Backup.
Aside from some minor aesthetic differences these two motors function in a similar way.
Hello, thank you for the video. Looking to get new garage doors (insulated) with both high lift and jackshaft. I knew about the LM8500W but was introduced to the Genie 6170HB today when a Wayne Dalton dealer came to the home. Now I am seeing mixed reviews between the 2 and cannot decide. 1st question is, if my existing wall mounted remote is hardwired, could I use that existing line (bell wire as you call it) for either product (will be checking if hardwired later)? 2nd, has the locking feature of the LM8500W been improved since this video was released? 3rd, the tension management for Genie 6170HB appears to be better, do you know if an improvement on the LM8500W now that LM has some competition? Finally, have you gotten a Genie yourself and is your original "King" of openers still stand or have you crowned a new King? Thank you again for the video.
Great questions. Let me start from the back to front.
Yes, I own a 6170HB but for my main door I utilize the Genie 3120L.
To my knowledge the 841LM automatic door lock has not been updated. I still replace a few from time to time. None of the newer trolley motors have the options to include an automatic door lock. Thus it will be exclusive to this motor. The same will apply to the cable tension monitor. I have yet to see an update. Failures to this specific part are far and few.
Lastly, you can use the existing wall button bell wire to your current garage door system.
Now I do feel the Genie 6170 is King for installers. The software based cable tension system is very keen to the motors operation. Additionally, I have been able to install this motor is smaller and tighter spaces than the 8500W.
That being said, if you want the superior app experience then you want to stay with MyQ.
Y'all stay safe!
Would this motor be good for a 3 car garage? I currently have three motors hanging kind of an eye sore plus they are very old..and I’m thinking of changing them to a more sleek modern design
Great question. So to be clear, you have 3 single car garage doors? Do you have sufficient space between them?
@@sosgds that’s correct three single garage doors with about 16 inches in between them
@@saitekina_og9271 you should be ok. But it's the space will matter up above where the torsion tube sticks out. If you can assure sufficient space above you should be good.
@@sosgds oooh I see height I’m not to concern about very high ceilings in the garage 😃 thank you for the those tips can’t wait to install them
I loved your "One Major Flaw" review, but you completely missed it. The BIGGEST flaw of Liftmaster is their lack of 2FA support. It's like inviting the hackers into your own house. Even their own blog had an article urging the customers to use 2FA for extra security, but they themselves do NOT have 2FA capability. What a cliché!! You really need to do another video regarding "The Biggest Flaw of ALL" for Liftmaster's products.
This is very interesting. I will investigate this and work up a video soon! Thanks for the feedback!
Why can't you just use your own longer wire?
Great question. Yes you can and it's easy to splice the wires. Of course LiftMaster is charging a pretty penny just to short change their wiring.
Hey Santiago - Any guidance on how to resolve Error 3-5, i am seeing that on my garage door and unable to figure out how to get around it.
Hello. It looks like that type of error code will have to deal with the cable tension monitor. Now there's a couple of variables that you need to take into account. You specifically want to make sure that your door is properly balanced and there's no obstruction opening or closing it. In addition to that you want to make sure that your cable tension monitor is properly connected to the motor. Yet if after these efforts you still have that error code then you more than likely have a bad cable tension monitor. Hope this helps.
Less than 1 year after installing the 8500w, the motor failed. Liftmaster is sending a replacement motor which they want me to install.
Ouch! Not a good look for LiftMaster but at least they warrantied the motor for you.
Any idea how to add a key release from the outside? I don't have an entrance other than the garage door so if mine breaks I'm screwed
Hello. No a wall mount motor would not be a good solution for your circumstance.
Still like it better then Genie / OHD. You couldn’t pay me to use their products. Just remember LiftMaster is the #1 professionally installed garage door opener not Genie not OHD not linear not guadian. Most new installations are prewired so you don’t need the wire in the box. I’d know because I’m a licensed electrician.
Hey Sam! Thanks for the feedback. LiftMaster has definitely dominated market with their excellent product line. Truth be told, I love the 8500W. But I do a lot of retrofit where there is not existing wiring. So this has become an issue with many of my customers. As an electrician, do you recommend a particular bell wire that is not the dark brown wire that you can get from the local hardware store?
@@sosgds You should be able to pick up some alarm system wire. It is usually 22/2, which is the same wire gauge as the Liftmaster wire.
@@stephenkyu Excellent! Shoot me a link on the wire you recommend please. sosgdoservice@gmail.com
the solution to short wires? extend them!
The opener will not go down at all unless you have the cable tenchener wired up
Its being bypassed by taking it apart and just hooking up the chip
I use cat 5 cable
Cat 5 is a good way to go.
I use the existing wire , simple remedy.
Yes, that automatic lock is junk. In fact, I often try not to even install him them because it almost a guaranteed call back
I've had my 8500 for probably 7 years without any lock problems.
What is your opinion on the Genie Excelerator from 2004 era?
Thanks for the question Cole. The first Excelerators were an effort to transition into a DC motor for screw drives. But they were plagued with so many logic board issues that I think customers were fleeing to Chamberlain/LiftMaster. Aside from applying some minor repairs to that motor (trolley carriage, coupler, sensors) I really don't waste my time with it. I offer the customer a replacement.
Designed for garage door openers? lol, there is no amperage. Pretty much and wire will work 16 gauge to 24 gauge. Solid or stranded
That's very true! And most newer homes come hardwired into the garage. Yet the wire that LiftMaster provide albeit minimal should at least come at the proper distance. Many DIYers complain that wiring is just not enough for the placement of the wall button.
What wire gauge do you prefer to install?
Which wall mount garage door opener is your favorite?
Great video 🇺🇲🖐🎅🌲💥😎 I agree for what these jerks charge that short cheap wire is unacceptable 🙄
Copper is expensive... they know exactly what they're doing
The interlock and cable tensioner are super easy to install. As far as 2-wire being too short…😂. Any installer who doesn’t carry at least 1 box of 22-2 wire is not a professional in my opinion. Splicing the wire is hack and should only be done when a house is pre wired. Much like carrying wood for center pads or in this case the tensioner.
The real flaw with the 8500 is when a salesman sells this unit on a LHR inside pull torsion setup. It can be done but it takes a near perfect door and operator install to get it to work properly as the top section will want to fall backwards in the LhR track. It takes finesse to get it just right where the doorway is fully sealed.
Thank you for sharing your feedback. I think what most dealer installers forget about the LiftMaster 8500w is that it's sold through major retail channels like Amazon and even EBay. Thus for the average home consumer, finding that the wire is not long enough to run wall console is a flaw for the overall experience. I get that professionals will utilize longer wire to get the job done. Yet it's the fact of having to purchase more wire that LiftMaster has yet to address. Additionally there's a number of hacks that anyone can do on these wall mount garage door opener motors. None of which any manufacturer will say is possible. For example I can't get LiftMaster or Genie to outright say their wall mount garage door opener motors will operate on reverse torsion lowhead track assemblies. Now I know it's possible but not even the manufacturers will encourage that their Motors are the standards for those types of garage door configurations. At any rate I feel that now that LiftMaster will be coming out with a wall mount garage door opener motor that will not require a cable tension monitor it might give these companies an incentive to find more applications for these types of motors.
By the way I would love to see that low head track reverse torsion job that you were talking about. Do you have a social media that you post on?
@@sosgds I don’t have social media yet but will soon. I’ve been taking before and after pics everyday for years with the intention of making a website or twitter account around garage doors.
The setup i was talking about uses LHR tracks where you use standard bottom fixtures instead of the LHR ones, the top fixtures stay the same. You carefully cut back the top LHR track so the drums and cables mount to the inside of the tracks like a standard torsion install. So you get the benefits of LHR track in a tight space and the benefit of a standard torsion assy with the cables hidden inside instead of outside like a normal LhR torsion.
This is also useful when headroom and side room are both issues. I hate regular LHR, especially LHR torsion so now do all these installs using the inside pull method. I do a ton of work in the Boston area where the garages are always tight in every way so it comes in handy.
8500w are $600..ouch
You can't buy a 1000' spool of damn bell wire yourself?
Let me save you 10 minutes. The ‘flaw’ is that the wire provided for connecting the opener to the control at the people door is too short. So be prepared to splice the wire or buy a longer roll.
Thanks for the the feedback!
Houses are wired for wall button and photo eyes with cat 5 wire for over head opener Use original wall button wire and splice into photo eye wire hanging from ceiling to reach the unit. problem solved
The issue is the wire length? Really? That's stupid, just use the existing wire or get a small spool of 2/18.
you are truly amazing and not in a good way wayne dalton dealer figured so
so, not long enough wire is supplied with the kit...THAT's the major flaw.
Hello. This video is simply presenting an issue that a homeowner might find annoying. The reality is LiftMaster has yet to offer a longer wire solution for this motor while their competition has. It's food for thought.
What a deceiving video. They sell spools of this type of wire at your local hardware store if you need a longer run. How is this a flaw in the product itself??
Thanks for your feedback. But is it not also deceiving to purchase a high dollar product and find that they did not offer sufficient wiring for it? Do you really want to spend time and gas to travel to the hardware store just for wiring? What would the homeowner think about the whole overall experience of their purchase? That's the premise, focus, and target of this video ... The homeowner, Avid DIYer, and New Installer. All are expecting a smooth experience. If they know that they will not get sufficient wiring before committing to their purchase or install then the video has served its purpose.
I hate my 8500 LiftMaster. Buyer beware!
Hello. Please tell me why you hate the 8500 so much?
Very informative..., please explain
In my professional opinion (non garage professional), if you call your self a professional why don't you just carry a large roll of wire??
Very good question. It so happens that I do carry extra wire with me when it comes to these particular jobs. But because this particular product can be bought wholesale and sometimes through retail channels, most customers will not be prepared. In fact when I offer the customer the opportunity to have a longer wire installed they are not crazy about the idea of having it stapled above on their ceiling. And it would cost more to do in wall work. In addition to that having a longer wire does create more challenges in the future with pinched lines and small rodents chewing on the line. At the end of the day the solution I tried to provide is something that will give the customer a more long-term benefit and a little bit more peace of mind.
10 minutes worth of repeating over and over the bell wire is to short, really? Go get a roll of 18/2 thermostat wire and “get er done”
by definition, the cable length is NOT a technical flaw. definitely not something to make a video about. this is coming from the worlds youngest master technician with over 14 years of experience and father with over 30 years of experience, combined 45 years. the word you're looking for is INCONVENIENT; otherwise you're using the word "flaw" incorrectly. have a good day!
WOW! What an honor to have the "worlds youngest master technician" comment on my video! Thanks for the feedback.
HA HA!
LOL this was a hilarious read 😆🤣
I agree wire length is not a flaw. Most customers want the wall button next to the garage door as well as the entry door. The wireless button fulfills their needs easily. And what technician doesn’t have barrels of unused wire left over from pre wired new construction jobs? The amount of wire would not cause me to buy another brand.
This garage door is a POS and fails all of the time. Stay away. The lift Jack system in general is awful and dangerous due to torque and weight when failures happen. Then you have to pay $500 to have qualified technicians just to help lift the effin door.
This motor is not perfect. But I am surprised that it frequently failed for you. What size and type of garage door is currently lifting?
@@sosgds Well see if it's lifting anything after the storm passes. Should be good as I got it down. The cable had somehow jostled out of the drums and they were wrapping up on the crank shaft. Not good. We're going to have to have someone look at it. Gives error 5-3 and that doesn't pop up in the manuals when I search. Also a negative. Could be me though. Nothing we can do ATM.
He forgot to say that genie wire is not only for the Wall button.
That long wire he showed on the video is for two separate sensors and wall button. Which is a pain in the butt to deal with, because you need to connect each one individually...
How can that guy be a professional?!
4:36. "it's a lot more thicker". someone needs a lot more time in school.
Longest video to say the wire is to short and get a wireless opener!!’
What a wast of our time. 10+ minutes for a 4 minute video... Good job.
Boo hoo, I have to splice some wire.😢
god i hate this motor so freakin much
What do you hate about this motor specifically?
Dude stop talking so much and just get to the point
Hey Blue Taco, so what I'm hearing you say is " Thanks for sharing your expertise as a licensed garage contractor and providing us with free and informative content that might be a little long winded but important for the average viewer that can sit thru a 10+ minute video. Keeping working harder to making these videos better for all that are looking for guidance on making a sound buying decision" Thanks for the feedback.
Useless.
I bet you are divorced
Nope. Happily Married.
good video
Thanks for feedback Joe GDS!